CN110721104B - Whitening cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Whitening cream and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN110721104B
CN110721104B CN201911056259.7A CN201911056259A CN110721104B CN 110721104 B CN110721104 B CN 110721104B CN 201911056259 A CN201911056259 A CN 201911056259A CN 110721104 B CN110721104 B CN 110721104B
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phase
raw material
whitening
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acid
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CN110721104A (en
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林吉珊
张娇
韩志东
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Quanhou Guangzhou Research Institute Of Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/347Phenols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/678Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to whitening cream and a preparation method thereof. The whitening cream comprises the following preparation raw materials: nicotinamide, resveratrol, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, a peony extract, diglucosylgallic acid, a sturgeon caviar extract, phosphatidylcholine, ceramide 3, p-hydroxyacetophenone, tocopheryl acetate, sodium hyaluronate, 7-10% of a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, a thickener, a neutralizer, essence and water. The whitening cream can play a role in multiple ways such as melanin generation inducement, a melanin generation process, a melanin transfer process to a final melanin digestion and discharge process and the like, and achieves the purpose of quickly whitening and removing freckles.

Description

Whitening cream and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to whitening cream and a preparation method thereof.
Background
In recent years, skin whitening cosmetics added with whitening functional components and active substances are increasingly active, and research hotspots for safer and more efficient skin whitening agents and whitening functional component combined components are found in the prior skin whitening cosmetics.
The formation of skin tone is closely related to melanocytes, keratinocytes and other cells of the skin. Melanocytes located in the basal part of the epidermis produce melanin, which is transferred to surrounding keratinocytes, and is carried to the epidermal layer as the epidermal cells migrate, and finally disappears as the keratinocytes fall off.
At present, the general skin whitening cosmetics mainly achieve the whitening effect by reducing the production of melanin through inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase or blocking the synthesis pathway of the tyrosinase for generating the melanin. The skin whitening agent mainly comprises arbutin, L-ascorbic acid derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives, nicotinamide, tranexamic acid, benzenediol and its derivatives, etc. However, many skin whitening cosmetics on the market cannot comprehensively consider various links of skin whitening, such as: from the melanogenesis predisposing factor, the melanogenesis process, the transfer of melanin to the final melanin digestion and excretion process, etc. The process of melanin formation is complex, and a single route often cannot achieve a good whitening effect. Therefore, there is a need for a cosmetic that can achieve rapid whitening and freckle-removing effects through multiple mechanisms of action.
For example, patent document CN109288715A discloses a whitening and repairing composition, which includes phytosterol, bisabolol, azone, VE oil, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, arbutin, VC ethyl ether, inositol, acetyl chitosamine, glabridin and encapsulated resveratrol, and the whitening and repairing composition has an inhibitory effect on tyrosine, tyrosinase and active oxygen, which are production conditions of melanin, and thus has whitening and after-sun repairing functions, but the composition of the composition is complex, and many kinds of active ingredients are involved, which results in high preparation cost and is not beneficial to popularization and application.
For another example, patent document CN110123729A discloses a jelly membrane, which has various effects of moisture retention, wrinkle resistance, whitening and the like, but contains more than ten active ingredients such as active peptide, nicotinamide, collagen, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, mallow flower extract, peony extract, honeysuckle flower extract, chamomile extract, dandelion extract, Chinese violet extract, grape seed oil, sturgeon seed paste extract, superoxide dismutase and the like, so that the preparation cost is high, and the jelly membrane is not suitable for popularization and application.
Still another example is patent document CN107929119A, which discloses a composition with whitening and spot-lightening effects, comprising moisturizer, anti-allergy soothing agent, niacinamide, tightening and anti-wrinkle agent, nano-gold rod, VC-ethyl ether, alpha-arbutin, solvent filling enhancer, diglucosyl gallic acid, the anti-allergy soothing agent is a combination of hamamelis extract, rosa multiflora extract, bisque flower extract, and daisy flower extract, and the tightening and anti-wrinkle agent is a combination of yeast extract and oligopeptide-1. Also, the formulation of the whitening and spot-lightening composition is complicated, and expensive nano gold rods are used as main functional ingredients, resulting in high preparation cost.
In summary, there is a need for a whitening cosmetic which not only can achieve the purpose of rapidly whitening and removing freckles through multiple action mechanisms, but also has the advantages of simple formula, low preparation cost, and safe and stable system.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the problems in the prior art (such as complex formula, high raw material cost, single action way and the like of whitening cosmetics), the invention provides a whitening cream which has simple formula and low raw material cost, can act in multiple ways from a melanin generation inducer, a melanin generation process, a melanin transfer to a final melanin digestion and discharge process and the like, and achieves the purpose of quickly whitening and removing freckles.
The whitening cream provided by the invention comprises the following preparation raw materials in percentage by weight:
2.5-4.5% of nicotinamide, 0.5-2% of resveratrol, 0.5-2% of 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, 0.5-2% of peony extract, 0.1-1% of diglucosylgallic acid, 1-3% of sturgeon caviar extract, 0.5-2% of phosphatidylcholine, 30.5-2% of ceramide, 0.5-1% of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.05-0.5% of tocopherol acetate, 0.05-0.5% of sodium hyaluronate, 7-10% of humectant, 12.5-22% of emollient, 1-4% of emulsifier, 0.1-1% of thickener, 0.05-0.5% of neutralizer, 0.05-0.3% of essence and 50-65% of water.
Preferably, the humectant consists of butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, and propylene glycol.
More preferably, the weight ratio of the butanediol, the 1, 2-hexanediol and the propylene glycol is (6-8): (0.5-1): 0.5-1).
Preferably, the emollient consists of isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxane, shea butter and isohexadecane.
More preferably, the weight ratio of isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxane, shea butter and isohexadecane is (5.5-7.5): (3.5-5.5): (2-4): (1-3): 0.5-2.
Preferably, the emulsifier consists of PEG-8C 12-20 acid ester and polysorbate-80; the weight ratio of the C12-20 acid PEG-8 ester to the polysorbate-80 is (0.5-2) to (0.5-2).
Preferably, the thickening agent consists of xanthan gum and acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer.
More preferably, the weight ratio of the xanthan gum to the acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer is (0.05-0.5): (0.05-0.5).
Preferably, the neutralizing agent is triethanolamine.
Correspondingly, the invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening cream, which comprises the following steps:
s1, weighing the preparation raw materials according to the formula ratio, and dividing the preparation raw materials into a phase A raw material, a phase B raw material, a phase C raw material, a phase D raw material and a phase E raw material for later use; the phase A raw materials comprise 1/2 formula amount of water, butanediol and a thickening agent, and the phase B raw materials comprise an emollient and an emulsifier; the C-phase raw material comprises propylene glycol and resveratrol; the phase D raw materials comprise 1/4 formula amounts of water, p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1, 2-hexanediol; the phase E raw materials comprise 1/4 formula amount of water, nicotinamide, sturgeon caviar extract, phosphatidylcholine, ceramide 3, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, peony extract, diglucosylgallic acid, tocopherol acetate and sodium hyaluronate;
s2, putting the phase A raw material into a water phase pot of a homogenizing and emulsifying pot, stirring for dissolving, and heating to 80-85 ℃; putting the phase B raw material into an oil phase pot of a homogenizing emulsifying pot, stirring for dissolving, and heating to 80-85 ℃;
s3, mixing the raw materials of the phase A and the phase B, homogenizing at 70-80 ℃ for 5-10 min at 3000-4000 r/min, and then preserving heat for 15-20 min at 80-85 ℃;
s4, stirring and cooling to 55 ℃, then adding a neutralizing agent, and homogenizing for 0.5-1 min at 3000-4000 r/min;
and S5, continuously stirring and cooling to 45 ℃, sequentially adding the phase C raw material, the phase D raw material, the phase E raw material and the essence, homogenizing for 3-5 min at 1000-1500 r/min, cooling to below 30 ℃, and discharging to obtain the whitening cream.
The formula of the whitening cream disclosed by the invention is as follows:
the niacinamide can effectively inhibit the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes, and when part of melanin reaches the surface skin, the niacinamide can promote the cells containing the melanin to drop off by accelerating the renewal speed of the skin cells, thereby playing a role in whitening the skin; resveratrol, as an endothelin antagonist, can inhibit the proliferation and differentiation of melanocytes by antagonizing the action of endothelin, and can inhibit the expression of tyrosinase, thereby reducing melanin synthesis; the 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, inhibit the formation of melanin, and reduce the melanin to be colorless, thereby achieving the effect of whitening skin; the peony extract can prevent the generation of melanin on one hand, and has anti-inflammation and anti-allergy effects on the other hand, so that the irritation of the whitening agent to the skin can be effectively relieved; therefore, the whitening purpose with multiple action mechanisms is realized through the compounding of the nicotinamide, the resveratrol, the 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid and the peony extract.
The sturgeon caviar extract is derived from roe of sturgeon, contains abundant vitamins and minerals, and can provide multiple effects of moisturizing, nourishing, resisting aging, repairing and the like for skin. However, the inventor finds that the stability of the nicotinamide is reduced by adding the sturgeon caviar extract, the loss amount of the nicotinamide is increased along with the increase of the adding amount of the sturgeon caviar extract, particularly under a high-temperature environment, the loss amount of the nicotinamide is remarkable, and the whitening effect of the product is reduced finally. This is presumably because the abundant minerals in the sturgeon caviar extract affect the stability of niacinamide, similar to the effect of trace elements in the premix on niacinamide stability. In order to retain the action efficacy of the sturgeon caviar extract, the inventor finally finds that the effect of the sturgeon caviar extract on the stability of nicotinamide can be effectively restricted by the polycyclic macromolecular substance diglucosylgallic acid through a large amount of groping and tests, thereby not only ensuring the lasting exertion of the efficacy of the nicotinamide, but also introducing the advantageous raw material of the sturgeon caviar extract. In addition, the diglucosylgallic acid can inhibit tyrosinase activity, prevent melanin transfer, inhibit MITF activity, and synergistically realize whitening of multiple action mechanisms.
The skin conditioner comprises phosphatidyl choline, ceramide 3, p-hydroxyacetophenone, tocopherol acetate and sodium hyaluronate, and can improve and enrich the effects of whitening, removing freckles, moisturizing, resisting aging, repairing and the like of the product by combining the moisturizing agent and the emollient. The emulsifier and the thickener ensure the uniformity and stability of the system.
Therefore, compared with the prior art, the invention has the advantages that:
(1) the whitening cream has the advantages of simple formula, low raw material cost, simple preparation method, easily-controlled conditions and stable process, can be industrially produced and can be popularized and applied.
(2) The whitening cream can play a role in multiple ways such as a melanin generation incentive, a melanin generation process, a melanin transfer process to a final melanin digestion and discharge process and the like, achieves the aim of quickly whitening and removing freckles, and simultaneously provides a plurality of skin care effects such as moisturizing, anti-aging, repairing and the like for skin; in addition, the formula system of the whitening cream is safe and stable, can be used for a long time, and has good market prospect.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph comparing the ITA DEG values before and after using the products of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 2.
FIG. 2 is a graph comparing c values before and after using the products of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 2.
FIG. 3 is a graph comparing L values before and after using the products of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 2.
FIG. 4 is a chart showing the results of questionnaires after using the products of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to specific examples.
The raw materials used in the invention are all conventional commercial products, wherein the manufacturer information of part of the raw materials is as follows:
the shea butter is shea butter (Butyrospermum PARKII) which is purchased from AAK group; the peony extract is a peony (Paeonia SUFFRUTICOSA) extract, and is purchased from Bailander Biotech (Haimen) Co., Ltd; the sturgeon caviar extract was purchased from the french chlorogica company.
Examples 1 to 3 whitening creams according to the present invention and methods of preparing the same
The formula of the whitening cream of the embodiments 1-3 of the invention is shown in the following table 1.
TABLE 1 formulation of whitening cream of examples 1-3 of the present invention
Figure BDA0002256624060000041
Figure BDA0002256624060000051
The preparation method of the whitening cream in the embodiment 1-3 of the invention comprises the following steps:
s1, weighing the preparation raw materials according to the formula ratio, and dividing the preparation raw materials into a phase A raw material, a phase B raw material, a phase C raw material, a phase D raw material and a phase E raw material for later use;
the phase A raw materials comprise 1/2 formula amount of water, butanediol, xanthan gum and acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, and the phase B raw materials comprise isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxane, shea butter (Butyrschwanum PARKII) fruit fat, isohexadecane, PEG-8 ester of C12-20 acid and polysorbate-80; the C-phase raw material comprises propylene glycol and resveratrol; the phase D raw materials comprise 1/4 formula amounts of water, p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1, 2-hexanediol; the phase E raw material comprises 1/4 formula amount of water, nicotinamide, sturgeon caviar extract, phosphatidyl choline, ceramide 3, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, peony (Paeonia SUFFRUTICOSA) extract, diglucosylgallic acid, tocopherol acetate and sodium hyaluronate;
s2, putting the phase A raw material into a water phase pot of a homogenizing and emulsifying pot, stirring and dissolving at a rotating speed of 20r/min, and heating to 80-85 ℃; putting the phase B raw material into an oil phase pot of a homogenizing emulsifying pot, stirring and dissolving at the rotating speed of 20r/min, and heating to 80-85 ℃;
s3, mixing the raw materials of the phase A and the phase B, homogenizing at 3500r/min for 5-10 min at 70-80 ℃, and then preserving heat for 15-20 min at 80-85 ℃;
s4, stirring and cooling to 55 ℃, then adding triethanolamine, and homogenizing at 3500r/min for 0.5-1 min;
and S5, continuously stirring and cooling to 45 ℃, sequentially adding the phase C raw material, the phase D raw material, the phase E raw material and the essence, homogenizing for 3-5 min at 1000r/min, cooling to below 30 ℃, and discharging to obtain the whitening cream.
Comparative example 1
The comparative example differs from example 3 only in that: without adding peony (Paeonia SUFFRUTICOSA) extract and sturgeon caviar extract, the amount of nicotinamide was increased to 4.5kg, the amount of resveratrol was increased to 2.0kg, the amount of 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid was increased to 2.0kg, and the amount of diglucosylgallic acid was increased to 1.0kg, respectively.
Comparative example 2
The comparative example differs from example 3 only in that: without the addition of diglucosylgallic acid, the amount of nicotinamide was increased correspondingly to 4.0 kg.
Test example one, evaluation of whitening and freckle-removing effects of the whitening cream of the present invention
1. Testing the population: chinese women of 25-35 years old have color spots on their faces; total 50, divided into 5 groups.
2. Testing an instrument: the facial image analyzer VISIA CR, manufactured by Canfield corporation, usa.
3. And (3) testing environmental conditions: the test environment temperature is 20-22 ℃, the humidity is 40-60%, and real-time dynamic monitoring is carried out.
4. The product using method comprises the following steps: the samples of example 1, example 2, example 3, comparative example 1 and comparative example 2 were used by the group 5, respectively, and the samples were labeled as group A, group B, group C, group D and group E.
The dosage and frequency of application are 0.5 g/time and 2 times/day (1 time each in the morning and evening). During the test, subjects were protected from excessive uv exposure. The use of external preparations containing whitening components and paraadrenal hormone preparations is avoided. Avoiding oral administration of preparations containing vitamin C as main component, tranexamic acid, etc. In addition, it is preferable to avoid using skin care cosmetics and the like other than the test sample during the test. I.e. no longer have to be used, and the same product is used and documented throughout the test.
5. Testing parts: the entire face.
6. The testing process comprises the following steps:
(1) VISIA CR facial imaging
The whitening effect of the cosmetic is evaluated through a human body test by a plurality of evaluation parameters, such as whitening, skin color evening, skin color brightening, speckle lightening, wrinkle lightening and the like. The Lab color model is composed of three elements of brightness (L) and related colors, namely a and b. L denotes light (luminescence), a denotes a range from magenta to green, and b denotes a range from yellow to blue. The value range of L is from 0 to 100, and when L is 50, the color is equivalent to 50% of black; the value range of a and b is from +127 to-128, wherein +127a is magenta, and gradually transits to-128 a to become green; in the same principle, +127b is yellow and-128 b is blue. All colors are composed by alternating changes of these three values. Skin brightness L value, ITA value. L measured by the color meter represents brightness, the change of the L represents the change of the skin black-white degree, and the larger the value of the L is, the more the color is biased to white; a represents the red-green color degree, the change of the red-green color degree represents the change of the red-green color degree before and after the whitening product is used, + a represents red, and-a represents green; b represents the blue-yellow degree, the change of the blue-yellow degree represents the change of the skin blue-yellow degree before and after the whitening product is used, + b represents yellow, and-b represents blue. From the measured values of L, a and b, the change in skin color of the population can be calculated as a comparison of the ITA values, with the greater the ITA value, the brighter the skin and, conversely, the darker the skin. VISIA CR takes a photograph of the face: before use, the face was washed with the face-cleaning standard at 2 weeks and 4 weeks after use of the sample, and VISIA CR face photographs were taken after sitting still in a constant temperature and humidity room for 20 min. The original shot picture is: the standard light 1, standard light 2, UV, parallel polarization and cross polarization patterns are used, and the light source patterns for whitening evaluation are standard light 2, UV and parallel polarization patterns.
(2) Self-assessment (questionnaire)
Self-confirmation of skin status was performed before use and at week 4 after use of the sample, and questionnaires were filled out. Evaluation is carried out by adopting a grading method: 10 indicates good effect, 6 indicates general effect, and 1 indicates no obvious effect. The skin color state change indexes evaluated include luster, whiteness, lightening spots and the like.
7. And (4) calculating and analyzing results:
(1) a data arrangement mode: the data output is the average of 10 people per group.
(2) Selecting corresponding areas, selecting 5 points for analysis, including forehead, cheeks and cheeks, and sorting and averaging to obtain face-shaping data. Obtaining the values of L, a and b, and obtaining the values of the whiteness ITA, the chroma c and the corrected L after the conversion of the following formulas:
TTA°=(Arc(L*﹣50)/b)×180/π
Figure BDA0002256624060000081
L*=﹣1.05×(c*-24)…R=1.000
(3) the ITA DEG values, c and L are calculated, and the results are shown in FIGS. 1 to 4.
As can be seen from FIGS. 1 to 4: the whitening cream disclosed by the embodiments 1-3 of the invention acts in multiple ways, achieves more effective whitening and freckle removing effects, and provides moisturizing and nourishing effects, so that the skin brightness is obviously improved; in examples 1 to 3, the whitening and freckle removing effects of the whitening cream in example 3 are the best examples of the present invention. However, in comparison, the comparative examples 1 and 2 lack certain components, so that the whitening and freckle removing effects are obviously reduced, and the aim of effectively whitening and removing freckles is fulfilled by the synergy of the components of the whitening cream disclosed by the invention.
Test example two, evaluation of safety and stability of whitening cream of the present invention
(first) evaluation of safety
The safety of the whitening creams in examples 1 to 3 is evaluated according to a human skin patch test in technical standards for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).
And (3) test results: each group of subjects pass the repetitive open type smearing test of the whitening cream in the examples 1-3, and the skin reaction is observed after 7 days, wherein 0 case has adverse skin reaction (negative reaction), which indicates that the whitening cream is safe, mild and non-irritant.
(II) evaluation of stability
Comparative example 3, this comparative example differs from example 3 only in that: sturgeon caviar extract was not added, increasing the amount of water to 100% accordingly.
Comparative example 4, this comparative example differs from example 3 only in that: without the addition of diglucosylgallic acid, the amount of water was increased to 100% accordingly.
Comparative example 5, this comparative example differs from example 3 only in that: no diglucosylgallic acid was added and the content of sturgeon caviar extract was increased to 4.0%, with a corresponding reduction in water content.
Comparative example 6, this comparative example differs from example 3 only in that: the gallic acid (i.e. gallic acid) is used for replacing diglucosylgallic acid, and the content is not changed.
The heat resistance and cold resistance stability of the whitening creams of examples 1 to 3 are examined, and the nicotinamide content in the samples of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 3 to 6 is detected during the examination of the heat resistance stability (refer to journal article "content of nicotinamide in cosmetics determined by ultraviolet spectrophotometry", the author is scorching peak), and the results are shown in the following table 2.
Table 2 stability test results of the respective products
Figure BDA0002256624060000091
From table 2 above, it can be seen that:
(1) through a heat-resistant and cold-resistant stability investigation test, the whitening cream disclosed by the embodiment 1-3 is uniform and stable in system and has no obvious change, and the loss amount of nicotinamide is within 15%, so that the whitening cream formula system disclosed by the invention has high stability, can effectively maintain the sensory index and whitening and freckle removing effects of a product, and has a long shelf life.
(2) Compared with the example 3, the comparative example 3 does not contain the sturgeon caviar extract, and through the investigation of 40d heat resistance test, the loss amount of nicotinamide is about 5%, and the stability of the formula system is high; the comparative example 4 does not contain diglucosylgallic acid, the comparative example 5 does not contain diglucosylgallic acid, the content of the sturgeon caviar extract is increased, the gallic acid is used for replacing the diglucosylgallic acid, the stability of the three products is reduced, the loss amount of nicotinamide is obvious, the stability of the nicotinamide is reduced when the sturgeon caviar extract is added, the loss amount of the nicotinamide is increased along with the increase of the added amount of the sturgeon caviar extract, the loss amount of the nicotinamide is obvious particularly under a high-temperature environment, and the diglucosylgallic acid can effectively restrict the influence of the sturgeon caviar extract on the stability of the nicotinamide, so that the stable and durable exertion of the efficacy of the nicotinamide is ensured.
The foregoing is a more detailed description of the invention in connection with specific preferred embodiments and it is not intended that the invention be limited to these specific details. For those skilled in the art to which the invention pertains, several simple deductions or substitutions can be made without departing from the spirit of the invention, and all shall be considered as belonging to the protection scope of the invention.

Claims (2)

1. The whitening cream is characterized by comprising the following preparation raw materials in percentage by weight:
2.5-4.5% of nicotinamide, 0.5-2% of resveratrol, 0.5-2% of 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, 0.5-2% of peony extract, 0.1-1% of diglucosylgallic acid, 1-3% of sturgeon caviar extract, 0.5-2% of phosphatidylcholine, 30.5-2% of ceramide, 0.5-1% of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.05-0.5% of tocopherol acetate, 0.05-0.5% of sodium hyaluronate, 7-10% of humectant, 12.5-22% of emollient, 1-4% of emulsifier, 0.1-1% of thickener, 0.05-0.5% of neutralizer, 0.05-0.3% of essence and 50-65% of water;
the humectant consists of butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and propylene glycol; the weight ratio of the butanediol, the 1, 2-hexanediol and the propylene glycol is (6-8): (0.5-1): 0.5-1);
the emollient is composed of isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxane, shea butter and isohexadecane; the weight ratio of isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxane, shea butter and isohexadecane is (5.5-7.5), (3.5-5.5), (2-4), (1-3) and (0.5-2);
the emulsifier consists of PEG-8C 12-20 acid ester and polysorbate-80; the weight ratio of the C12-20 acid PEG-8 ester to the polysorbate-80 is (0.5-2) to (0.5-2);
the thickening agent consists of xanthan gum and acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer; the weight ratio of the xanthan gum to the acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer is (0.05-0.5): (0.05-0.5);
the neutralizing agent is triethanolamine.
2. A method of preparing a whitening cream according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the steps of:
s1, weighing the preparation raw materials according to the formula ratio, and dividing the preparation raw materials into a phase A raw material, a phase B raw material, a phase C raw material, a phase D raw material and a phase E raw material for later use; the phase A raw materials comprise 1/2 formula amount of water, butanediol and a thickening agent, and the phase B raw materials comprise an emollient and an emulsifier; the C-phase raw material comprises propylene glycol and resveratrol; the phase D raw materials comprise 1/4 formula amounts of water, p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1, 2-hexanediol; the phase E raw materials comprise 1/4 formula amount of water, nicotinamide, sturgeon caviar extract, phosphatidylcholine, ceramide 3, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, peony extract, diglucosylgallic acid, tocopherol acetate and sodium hyaluronate;
s2, putting the phase A raw material into a water phase pot of a homogenizing and emulsifying pot, stirring for dissolving, and heating to 80-85 ℃; putting the phase B raw material into an oil phase pot of a homogenizing emulsifying pot, stirring for dissolving, and heating to 80-85 ℃;
s3, mixing the raw materials of the phase A and the phase B, homogenizing at 70-80 ℃ for 5-10 min at 3000-4000 r/min, and then preserving heat for 15-20 min at 80-85 ℃;
s4, stirring and cooling to 55 ℃, then adding a neutralizing agent, and homogenizing for 0.5-1 min at 3000-4000 r/min;
and S5, continuously stirring and cooling to 45 ℃, sequentially adding the phase C raw material, the phase D raw material, the phase E raw material and the essence, homogenizing for 3-5 min at 1000-1500 r/min, cooling to below 30 ℃, and discharging to obtain the whitening cream.
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