CN115154383B - Mild whitening composition and whitening face cream thereof - Google Patents

Mild whitening composition and whitening face cream thereof Download PDF

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CN115154383B
CN115154383B CN202210798676.4A CN202210798676A CN115154383B CN 115154383 B CN115154383 B CN 115154383B CN 202210798676 A CN202210798676 A CN 202210798676A CN 115154383 B CN115154383 B CN 115154383B
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phase
parts
whitening
skin
whitening cream
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CN115154383A (en
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李增焚
张娇
韩志东
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Quanhou Guangzhou Research Institute Of Biotechnology Co ltd
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Quanhou Guangzhou Research Institute Of Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02ATECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A50/00TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
    • Y02A50/30Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change

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Abstract

The invention discloses a mild whitening composition and whitening cream thereof, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics. The mild whitening composition in the present invention comprises: the whitening composition innovatively helps skin whiten by enhancing melanin metabolism, continuously blocking melanin transfer, inhibiting melanin generation and promoting transdermal absorption through four paths, wherein the four paths are that 0.01-0.5 part of glabridin extract, 2-8 parts of nicotinamide, 0.5-2 parts of acetylglucosamine, 1-5 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 1-5 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and 0.5-2 parts of enzymatic phosphate are calculated according to parts by weight; the whitening cream has the effects of multi-channel whitening, permeation promotion and mildness when being applied to the preparation of the whitening cream, and has high safety and good whitening effect on sensitive skin.

Description

Mild whitening composition and whitening face cream thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a mild whitening composition and whitening face cream thereof.
Background
At present, the traditional whitening method usually controls melanin, and the market claims that a lot of whitening products with whitening effect exist, the whitening products can generate the whitening effect mainly by inhibiting the generation, transportation and excretion of melanin through whitening components, so that the whitening effect is achieved, but a large amount of moisture of skin can be digested in the process, the skin is easy to dry, and meanwhile, if a large amount of whitening agent remains on the surface layer of the skin, side effects such as skin irritation and allergy are also easy to cause, the loss of horny layer protein is caused, and then the skin immune barrier function is damaged; in addition, most of the existing whitening products inhibit the formation of melanin through a single path to achieve the whitening effect, the whitening effect is required to be further improved, and meanwhile, the stability of the products is poor or the irritation is high, and the skin is easy to be sensitive after long-time use; at present, skin care products for improving skin darkness and yellowing of sensitive skin crowds are relatively few, and the effect and the irritation of the whitening products are closely related to the compatibility of formula components, so that the mild or low-irritation whitening skin care products are always pursued targets of people, and therefore, development of a whitening product with more comprehensive whitening effect and mild whitening effect is necessary.
The Chinese patent document CN 111407680A discloses a whitening skin care product and a preparation method thereof in the 7 th month of 2020, wherein the whitening skin care product contains several main whitening components of nicotinamide, acetylglucosamine, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, hydroxydecylubiquinone, phenethyl resorcinol and resveratrol, and can jointly play a whitening role from inhibiting melanin generation, inhibiting melanin transfer and reducing formed melanin multiple paths; chinese patent CN113648258A discloses a whitening composition for sensitive skin comprising tranexamic acid, carnosine, nonapeptide 1, magnolia sieboldii extract and hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, and its use, at 2021, 11/16; the mass ratio of the tranexamic acid to the carnosine to the nonapeptide 1 to the magnolia sieboldii extract to the hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid is (1-5): (0.1-1): (1-2): (0.5-2): (1-5), the whitening composition and the application product have better whitening effect and high safety, and simultaneously have the effects of inhibiting inflammatory reaction and relieving sensitive skin, and are especially suitable for sensitive skin crowds; chinese patent document CN113768818A discloses a whitening and anti-aging composition and a cosmetic in 2021, 12 months and 10 days, and the preparation method thereof comprises the following components: 0.05-3 parts of arbutin, 0.05-3 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.001-0.1 part of glutathione, 0.5-5 parts of nicotinamide, 0.1-2 parts of tranexamic acid, 0.0005-0.05 part of dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-base amide diacetate, 0.00005-0.005 part of acetyl tetrapeptide-2 and 0.0001-0.005 part of oligopeptide-4, wherein arbutin, ascorbyl glucoside, glutathione, nicotinamide and tranexamic acid are selected as whitening components; the dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-based amide diacetate, the acetyl tetrapeptide-2 and the oligopeptide-4 are selected as the anti-aging components, the whitening component and the anti-aging component have a synergistic interaction, and the synergistic interaction can obviously improve the whitening and anti-aging effects of the composition. However, these whitening compositions either simply pursue whitening efficacy without aiming at sensitive skin, have a single mechanism of action, have insufficient whitening effect, and are not known in terms of product stability and skin sensitivity after long-term use.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the problems in the prior art, the invention provides a mild whitening composition and whitening cream thereof, the mild whitening composition innovatively helps skin whitening by enhancing melanin metabolism, continuously blocking melanin transfer, inhibiting melanin generation and promoting transdermal absorption through four paths, and is applied to the preparation of the whitening cream, the whitening cream has multiple paths of whitening, permeation promotion and mild effects and has good whitening effect on sensitive skin, the problem that the whitening effect is not good enough due to the fact that the formation of melanin is inhibited through a single path, meanwhile, the stability of the product is poor, the irritation is large, the skin is easy to cause after long-time use, and the problems that the skin is unfavorable for improvement of skin darkness and yellowing of sensitive skin are solved.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
a mild whitening composition comprising: glabridin extract, nicotinamide, acetylglucosamine, ascorbyl glucoside, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, and enzymatic phosphate.
Further, the sum-whitening composition comprises: the glabridin extract comprises, by weight, 0.01-0.5 part of glabridin extract, 2-8 parts of nicotinamide, 0.5-2 parts of acetylglucosamine, 1-5 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 1-5 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and 0.5-2 parts of enzymatic phosphate.
Further, the glabridin extract is one or more of glabra root extract, glabra leaf extract, liquorice flavonoid and glabridin.
In addition, the invention also provides whitening cream, which comprises an A phase, a B phase, a C phase, a D phase and an E phase, wherein the A phase comprises a humectant, a thickener, deionized water, an antioxidant and a preservative; the phase B comprises compound grease, an emulsifying agent and a sensitivity-relieving agent; the C phase comprises glabridin extract and humectant; the phase D comprises deionized water, ascorbyl glucoside, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid, a buffer solution and a preservative, and the phase E comprises nicotinamide, acetylglucosamine and enzymatic phosphate.
Further, the whitening cream comprises: according to the mass portion of the components,
the phase A comprises: 5-15 parts of humectant, 0.1-1 part of thickener, 0.01-0.1 part of EDTA-2Na, 30-75 parts of deionized water, 0.01-0.5 part of antioxidant and 0.5-1.5 parts of preservative;
the phase B comprises: 1-10 parts of compound grease, 1-5 parts of emulsifying agent and 0.1-2 parts of sensitivity-relieving agent;
the phase C comprises: 0.01-0.5 part of glabridin extract and 2-5 parts of humectant;
phase D comprises: 3-10 parts of deionized water, 1-5 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 1-5 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid, 2-5 parts of buffer solution and 0.1-0.5 part of sodium hydroxide;
the E phase comprises: 2-8 parts of nicotinamide, 0.5-2 parts of chitosan amine and 0.5-2 parts of enzymatic hydrolysis phosphate.
Further, the mass ratio of the composite grease to the emulsifier in the phase B is 4: (0.8-1).
Further, the mass ratio of the buffer solution in the D phase to the ascorbyl glucoside is 1 (1-2).
Further, the sensitivity-relieving agent is one or more of bisabolol, oat extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, purslane extract, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid.
Further, the buffer solution is selected from 2 or more of citric acid, sodium citrate, monopotassium phosphate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, dipotassium phosphate and disodium hydrogen phosphate, and the humectant is one or more of glycerin, butanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, betaine and glycerin polyether-26.
Further, the emulsifier is one or more of cetostearyl alcohol, cetostearyl glucoside, cetostearyl alcohol, coco glucoside, C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside and sodium stearyl glutamate.
Further, the thickener is one or more of carbomer, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose and acrylic acid (ester) or C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer.
Further, the compound grease is one or more of butter tree fruit grease, ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, hydrogenated polydecene, polydimethylsiloxane, isononyl isononanoate and behenyl alcohol.
Further, the antioxidant is one or more of sodium metabisulfite, tocopherol (vitamin E) and tocopheryl acetate.
Further, the preservative is one or more of 1, 2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening cream, which is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
s1, mixing the phase A raw materials, heating to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring and dissolving to obtain a phase A mixture for later use;
s2, mixing and heating the C phase to about 70-75 ℃, and stirring until the C phase is dissolved and transparent to obtain a C phase mixture for later use;
s3, sequentially adding the D-phase raw materials, and uniformly stirring until all the D-phase raw materials are dissolved to obtain a D-phase mixture for later use;
s4, sequentially adding the phase B raw materials into a main pot, heating to 75-80 ℃, homogenizing, and stirring uniformly; then adding the phase A mixture, stirring for 5min at the homogenization speed of 2000rmp/min, and uniformly dissolving;
s5, cooling the main pot to 45-50 ℃, adding the C phase mixture, the D phase mixture and the E phase raw material, stirring for 5min to uniformity at the stirring speed of 100rmp/min, and discharging after detection is qualified to obtain the whitening cream. .
Wherein, in the mild whitening composition of the invention:
the glabridin extract can penetrate into skin and maintain high activity, and can be used for preparing main melanin synthesis protease: the preparation has very obvious inhibition effects on tyrosinase activity, dopachrome tautomerase (TRP-2) activity and the like, has the effects of preventing rough skin, resisting inflammation and bacteria, whitening and resisting oxidation with high efficiency, and the whitening effect of the glabridin is found to be 232 times higher than that of vitamin C by detecting the IC50 value of inhibiting melanin;
the chitosan amine is a micromolecular polysaccharide, is a basic composition unit of a plurality of important polysaccharides in biological cells and is an important precursor for synthesizing bifidus factors, on one hand, the chitosan amine normalizes the metabolism of glycoprotein on the surface of keratinocytes, so that the keratinocytes updated to the outermost layer form tiny scales and naturally drop off, thereby removing the horniness, maintaining the normal metabolism function of the surface layer keratinocytes, and simultaneously promoting the hydration of the skin, thus effectively increasing the transdermal absorbability of other effective components; on the other hand, the chitosan amine can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase by inhibiting the glycosylation of tyrosinase, reduce the synthesis of melanin, reduce the damage of free radicals to skin, resist wrinkle and aging, and enhance the repair capability of skin tissues.
Hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid is a very effective biological buffer, can maintain the functions of biological enzyme structures and active ingredients, promote the absorption of the active ingredients, soften cutin, and gently promote the exfoliation of old keratinocytes of the skin epidermis;
the nicotinamide can reduce melanin synthesis, accelerate cell metabolism, reduce melanin transfer to surface cells, and promote synthesis of epidermal layer proteins;
the ascorbyl glucoside is formed by an antibody and collagen, is a substance necessary for tissue repair, has the functions of resisting oxidation, resisting free radicals and inhibiting formation of tyrosinase, thereby achieving the effects of whitening and lightening spots;
the natural enzymolysis phospholipid has transdermal transfer effect, and forms an active substance pool in the cell gap, so that the active substance passes through the stratum corneum along the concentration gradient to be carried out in each layer of cells of the epidermis, and meanwhile, the natural enzymolysis phospholipid has the effects of promoting the synthesis of IV type collagen, VII type collagen and elastin, promoting the generation of epidermis-dermis fibronectin, promoting the synthesis of sodium hyaluronate and the like;
the multi-channel whitening and mild effects are prepared by reasonably mixing the components of the licorice extract, nicotinamide, acetylglucosamine, ascorbyl glucoside, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and enzymatic phosphate according to a certain mass ratio.
In addition, the whitening cream is prepared by compounding specific types and content of emulsifying agents and specific types of compound grease, so that the B phase designed by the bionic sebum membrane is prepared, the formed liquid crystal structure is multiple in quantity, uniform in form and particle size and high in stability, the whitening cream also has the anti-allergy and soothing biological activity, the penetration of mild whitening active ingredients into the skin cuticle can be promoted, the moisturizing and whitening effects of the skin are improved, and the whitening cream has excellent use feeling.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
1. the invention innovatively helps skin whitening by strengthening melanin metabolism, continuously blocking melanin transfer, inhibiting melanin generation and promoting transdermal absorption, and reasonably combines all the components according to a certain mass ratio to prepare the multi-channel whitening, permeation-promoting and mild whitening cream for sensitive skin, wherein the multi-channel whitening and mild whitening cream has good whitening effect on sensitive skin;
2. according to the properties of raw materials and the physiological characteristics of human skin, the preparation method disclosed by the invention is characterized in that the Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, nicotinamide, acetylglucosamine, ascorbyl glucoside, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and enzymatic phosphate are reasonably compounded to act on the skin from four dimensions: the hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and the chitosan amine can strengthen skin metabolism, mildly promote old keratinocyte exfoliation of skin epidermis, improve glossiness and softness of skin and promote absorption of other components; the nicotinamide can continuously block the synthesis of melanin, reduce the transfer of the melanin to surface cells, promote the synthesis of epidermal layer proteins, and transfer the melanin from the melanocytes to keratinocytes, so as to achieve the whitening effect; the ascorbyl glucoside and glabridin extract can inhibit the activities of tyrosinase and dopachrome tautomerase (TRP-2), and simultaneously has the effects of resisting oxidation, free radicals and the like, and the synthesis of melanin is inhibited by multiple ways, so that the whitening effect is achieved; the chitosan amine and the natural enzymolysis phospholipid promote the hydration of skin, strengthen transdermal transmission and effectively multiply the absorption of whitening components;
3. the whitening cream is prepared by compounding specific types and content of emulsifying agents and specific types of compound grease, so that the B phase designed by the bionic sebum membrane is prepared, the formed liquid crystal structure is large in quantity, uniform in form particle size and high in stability, the whitening cream also has anti-allergy and soothing biological activity, and the whitening cream is mixed with A, C, D, E, so that the penetration of mild whitening active ingredients into skin cuticle can be promoted, the moisture retention and whitening effects of skin can be improved, and the whitening cream has excellent use feeling.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a photograph of the face taken by subject 1 of panel 2 of trial one on day 10, day 14, and day 28 before use and after use of the sample;
FIG. 2 is a photograph of the faces taken by subject 2 of panel 2 of trial one before use and by VISIACR on days 10, 14, 28 after sample use;
fig. 3 is a photograph of the faces taken by subject 3 of panel 2 of trial one before use and by VISIACR at days 10, 14, 28 after use of the sample.
Detailed Description
The experimental methods of the present invention, in which specific conditions are not specified in the following examples, are generally conducted under conventional conditions or under conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The various chemicals commonly used in the examples are commercially available.
Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. The terminology used in the description of the invention herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of the invention.
The terms "comprising" and "having" and any variations thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion. For example, a process, method, apparatus, article, or device that comprises a list of steps is not limited to the elements or modules listed but may alternatively include additional steps not listed or inherent to such process, method, article, or device.
The present invention will be further described in detail with reference to the following embodiments, in order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent. It should be understood that the description is only illustrative and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention. In addition, in the following description, descriptions of well-known structures and techniques are omitted so as not to unnecessarily obscure the present invention.
The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, which are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.
1. Examples 1-5 provide a whitening cream, wherein the formulation of each example is shown in table 1 below:
table 1, formulation tables (parts by weight) of examples 1 to 5
The whitening cream of examples 1-5 was prepared as follows:
s1, mixing the phase A raw materials, heating to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring and dissolving to obtain a phase A mixture for later use;
s2, mixing and heating the C phase to about 70-75 ℃, and stirring until the C phase is dissolved and transparent to obtain a C phase mixture for later use;
s3, sequentially adding the D-phase raw materials, and uniformly stirring until all the D-phase raw materials are dissolved to obtain a D-phase mixture for later use;
s4, sequentially adding the phase B raw materials into a main pot, heating to 75-80 ℃, homogenizing, and stirring uniformly; then adding the phase A mixture, stirring for 5min at the homogenization speed of 2000rmp/min, and uniformly dissolving;
s5, cooling the main pot to 45-50 ℃, adding the C phase mixture, the D phase mixture and the E phase raw material, stirring for 5min to uniformity at the stirring speed of 100rmp/min, and discharging after detection is qualified to obtain the whitening cream.
Comparative examples 1-8 provide a whitening cream prepared in the same manner as in example 2, with phase a remaining unchanged and phase B, C, D, E differing in composition or ratio, and the composition of B, C, D, E in comparative examples 1-8 is shown in table 2:
table 2, recipe (parts by weight)
Test one, evaluation of whitening and freckle removing effects of whitening cream
1. Test sample: whitening cream prepared in examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 8;
2. test population: healthy men and women aged 25-45 years have spots on their faces; doing indoor work without long time or frequent exposure to ultraviolet rays; no allergic diseases, no allergic history of cosmetics and other external preparations; no medicine affecting the light sensitivity is used in the recent history of no light-sensitive disease; the skin of the tested part should not have the phenomena of birthmarks, inflammations, scars, hair and the like; the test process can be understood, 130 people can voluntarily participate in the test, and the test is divided into 13 groups of 10 people each;
3. test instrument: face image analyzer model VISIA-7 (USA)Company), germany CK multifunctional skin tester;
4. test environmental conditions: the temperature of the test environment is 20-22 ℃ and the humidity is 40-60%, and real-time dynamic monitoring is carried out;
5. the using method of the product comprises the following steps: the usage amount is as follows: 0.02 g/time, 1 time each in the morning and evening; during the test, the tester avoids excessive ultraviolet exposure, avoids using preparations containing whitening components and taking vitamin C as main components, preparations such as tranexamic acid and the like, and avoids using skin care cosmetics and the like except the test sample during the test;
6. test part: the whole face;
7. the testing process comprises the following steps:
(1) Instrument testing:
germany CK multifunctional skin tester: the Lab color model consists of three elements, namely, a and b, of brightness (L) and related colors. L represents light (luminance), a represents a range from magenta to green, and b represents a range from yellow to blue. L ranges from 0 to 100, l=50, which corresponds to 50% black; the value ranges of a and b are from +127 to-128, wherein +127a is magenta, and the color of the color is changed into green when the color gradually transits to-128 a; in the same principle, +127b is yellow and-128 b is blue. All colors consist of the three values which are changed interactively, wherein the L measured by a color instrument represents brightness, the change of the L represents the change of the black and white chromaticity of the skin, and the larger the value is, the more the color is biased to be white; a represents the red-green shade, and the change thereof represents the change of the red-green shade before and after the use of the whitening product; b represents blue yellowness, the change of which represents the change of blue yellowness of skin before and after the use of the whitening product, and the L, a and b values of color brightness and ITA degree are measured, wherein ITA degree (individual color type angle) is used as an index, and the larger the ITA value is, the brighter the skin is, and conversely, the darker the skin is;
the VISIA CR takes a facial photograph: in the panel using the whitening cream of example 2, 3 subjects were randomly drawn and photographed for the ViSIA CR face before use and on days 10, 14, 28 after sample use;
(2) Self-evaluation:
self-confirmation of skin status was performed before use and after day 28 after use of the sample, and a questionnaire was filled out and evaluated by scoring: the effect is good as shown by 10, the effect is generally shown by 6, and no obvious effect is shown by 1;
8. calculating and analyzing a test result:
(1) The data arrangement mode is as follows: the output data are the average of 10 people per group;
(2) Selecting corresponding areas, selecting 5 points for analysis, including forehead, cheeks on two sides, and cheek on two sides, and finally sorting and averaging to obtain data of the whole face to obtain values of L, a and b, chroma c and corrected value of L, and converting the following formulas to obtain whiteness ITA degree:
ITA°=(Arc(L*﹣50)/b)×180/π
L*=﹣1.05×(c*-24)…R=1.000
(3) The test results are shown in the following table:
TABLE 3 whitening and freckle-removing Effect results of whitening cream
Sample name ITA degree (front) ITA degree (rear) △ITA°
Example 1 35.4 39.6 10.2
Example 2 32.8 45.5 12.7
Example 3 30.9 43.4 12.5
Example 4 33.4 44.3 10.9
Example 5 32.8 44.5 11.7
Comparative example 1 35.2 36.3 1.1
Comparative example 2 30.3 32.0 1.7
Comparative example 3 33.5 35.7 2.2
Comparative example 4 36.6 38.5 1.9
Comparative example 5 40.4 44.1 3.7
Comparative example 6 43.2 49.3 4.2
Comparative example 7 35.2 43.2 8
Comparative example 8 35.6 42.3 6.7
As can be seen from the results in table 3, the whitening cream prepared in examples 1 to 5 of the present invention has relatively obvious effects of whitening and brightening skin through the synergistic effect of the functional components, wherein the whitening effect of example 2 is the best, and is the best example of the present invention; in comparative examples 1 to 6, the whitening and freckle removing effects are poor due to the lack of a certain whitening component in the C, D, E phase; comparative example 7 is a composition of the compound grease in phase B with the emulsifier in a ratio of not 4: (0.8-1), which causes the whitening cream system to be unstable and the whitening effect to be reduced; comparative example 8 is that the mass ratio of the buffer solution in the D phase to the ascorbyl glucoside is not 1 (1-2), and the whitening effect is also remarkably reduced.
(4) The results of the self-evaluation test are shown in the following table:
TABLE 4 self-evaluation test results
As can be seen from the data in Table 4, the self-evaluation average score of the whitening cream prepared in the examples 1 to 5 of the present invention is better than that of the self-evaluation average score of the comparative examples 1 to 8, which indicates that the whitening cream of the present invention has better whitening effect; wherein the average score of example 2 is highest, which is the best example of the present invention;
(5) VISIA CR facial photographing results: referring to fig. 1-3, it can be seen that the whitening cream prepared in example 2 of the present invention has obvious skin whitening effect after days 10, 14 and 28, indicating that the whitening cream prepared in the present invention has good whitening effect.
Test example two safety test of whitening cream (human skin patch test)
1. Test sample: whitening cream prepared in examples 1 to 5;
2. test population: selecting 75 healthy subjects with no skin allergy history between 20 and 50 years of age, and randomly dividing the healthy subjects into 5 groups of 15 people each;
3. the testing method comprises the following steps: firstly, cleaning the skin of an area to be tested by using normal saline, and drying for 5 minutes; selecting a qualified patch tester, and respectively taking about 0.02g of the face cream samples prepared in the examples 1-5 in the patch tester in a closed patch test mode, and externally applying a special adhesive tape to the back of a subject to inquire the subject about feeling; inhibiting bathing during the test period; the test cream sample is stuck, the spot sticking part of the test cream sample is kept dry within 48 hours, the fierce exercise, the spot scratching test part, the long-time sunlight irradiation and the like are avoided, the tester is removed and marked after 48 hours, the judgment is carried out under sufficient lamplight after the isobaric mark disappears after 30 minutes, the result is recorded according to the skin reaction grade standard in the skin care product health standard, and the skin adverse reaction grade standard is shown in the following table:
TABLE 5 grading of skin adverse reactions
4. Test results:
TABLE 6 safety test results of whitening creams
As can be seen from the data in Table 6, the test results of the skin patch experiments of the whitening cream prepared in examples 1-5 are all negative reactions, which indicates that the whitening cream prepared in examples 1-5 of the invention has no potential adverse reaction on human skin, has high safety and is mild and suitable for sensitive skin groups.
It should be noted that, in the present specification, specific features, structures, materials, or characteristics may be arbitrarily combined, and in order to simplify the description, all possible combinations of the features in the foregoing embodiments are not described, and those skilled in the art may combine and combine the features of the different embodiments and the different embodiments described in the present specification without contradiction.
The above examples illustrate only a few embodiments of the invention, which are described in detail and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit of the invention, which are all within the scope of the invention. Accordingly, the scope of protection of the present invention is to be determined by the appended claims.

Claims (8)

1. A mild whitening composition, comprising: the preparation comprises, by weight, 0.01-0.5 part of Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, 2-8 parts of nicotinamide, 0.5-2 parts of acetylglucosamine, 1-5 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 1-5 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and 0.5-2 parts of enzymatic phosphate.
2. The whitening cream is characterized by comprising an A phase, a B phase, a C phase, a D phase and an E phase, wherein the A phase comprises a humectant, a thickener, deionized water, an antioxidant and a preservative; the phase B comprises compound grease, an emulsifying agent and a sensitivity-relieving agent; the phase C comprises Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract and humectant; the phase D comprises deionized water, ascorbyl glucoside, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid, a buffer solution and a preservative, and the phase E comprises nicotinamide, acetylglucosamine and enzymatic phosphate.
3. The whitening cream of claim 2, comprising: according to the mass portion of the components,
the phase A comprises: 5-15 parts of humectant, 0.1-1 part of thickener, 0.01-0.1 part of EDTA-2Na, 30-75 parts of deionized water, 0.01-0.5 part of antioxidant and 0.5-1.5 parts of preservative;
the phase B comprises: 1-10 parts of compound grease, 1-5 parts of emulsifying agent and 0.1-2 parts of sensitivity-relieving agent;
the phase C comprises: 0.01-0.5 part of glabridin extract and 2-5 parts of humectant;
phase D comprises: 3-10 parts of deionized water, 1-5 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 1-5 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid, 2-5 parts of buffer solution and 0.1-0.5 part of sodium hydroxide;
the E phase comprises: 2-8 parts of nicotinamide, 0.5-2 parts of chitosan amine and 0.5-2 parts of enzymatic hydrolysis phosphate.
4. The whitening cream according to claim 3, wherein the mass ratio of the composite grease to the emulsifier in the phase B is: 4: (0.8-1).
5. A whitening cream according to claim 3, characterized in that the mass ratio of the buffer solution in the D phase to the ascorbyl glucoside is 1 (1-2).
6. A whitening cream according to claim 3, wherein the sensitivity-relieving agent is one or more of bisabolol, oat extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, purslane extract, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid.
7. A whitening cream according to claim 3, wherein the buffer solution is selected from 2 or more of citric acid, sodium citrate, monopotassium phosphate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate and disodium hydrogen phosphate, and the humectant is one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, betaine and glycerin polyether-26.
8. The method for preparing the whitening cream according to any one of claims 2 to 7, comprising the steps of:
s1, mixing the phase A raw materials, heating to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring and dissolving to obtain a phase A mixture for later use;
s2, mixing and heating the C phase to about 70-75 ℃, and stirring until the C phase is dissolved and transparent to obtain a C phase mixture for later use;
s3, sequentially adding the D-phase raw materials, and uniformly stirring until all the D-phase raw materials are dissolved to obtain a D-phase mixture for later use;
s4, sequentially adding the phase B raw materials into a main pot, heating to 75-80 ℃, homogenizing, and stirring uniformly; then adding the mixture A, stirring for 5min at the homogenizing speed of 2000rmp/min, and uniformly dissolving;
s5, cooling the main pot to 45-50 ℃, adding the C phase mixture, the D phase mixture and the E phase raw material, stirring for 5min to uniformity at the stirring speed of 100rmp/min, and discharging after detection is qualified to obtain the whitening cream.
CN202210798676.4A 2022-07-08 2022-07-08 Mild whitening composition and whitening face cream thereof Active CN115154383B (en)

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