CN115154383A - Mild whitening composition and whitening cream thereof - Google Patents

Mild whitening composition and whitening cream thereof Download PDF

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CN115154383A
CN115154383A CN202210798676.4A CN202210798676A CN115154383A CN 115154383 A CN115154383 A CN 115154383A CN 202210798676 A CN202210798676 A CN 202210798676A CN 115154383 A CN115154383 A CN 115154383A
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phase
parts
whitening
extract
skin
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CN115154383B (en
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李增焚
张娇
韩志东
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Quanhou Guangzhou Research Institute Of Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02ATECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A50/00TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
    • Y02A50/30Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change

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Abstract

The invention discloses a mild whitening composition and a whitening cream thereof, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics. The mild whitening composition of the present invention comprises: 0.01-0.5 part of glabridin extract, 2-8 parts of nicotinamide, 0.5-2 parts of acetyl chitosamine, 1-5 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 1-5 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and 0.5-2 parts of enzymolysis phospholipid by weight, and the whitening composition helps skin to whiten skin by innovatively strengthening melanin metabolism, continuously blocking melanin transfer, inhibiting melanin generation and promoting transdermal absorption; the whitening cream has the effects of multi-channel whitening, permeation promotion and mildness, is high in safety and has a good whitening effect on sensitive skin.

Description

Mild whitening composition and whitening cream thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a mild whitening composition and a whitening cream thereof.
Background
At present, the traditional whitening method usually regulates melanin, so that a lot of whitening products with whitening efficacy are declared on the market, the whitening products can generate the whitening efficacy and mainly inhibit the generation, transportation and excretion of melanin through whitening components and promote the metabolic cycle of skin so as to achieve the whitening efficacy, but a large amount of moisture of the skin can be digested in the process, the skin is easily dried, and meanwhile, if a large amount of whitening agents are remained on the surface layer of the skin, side effects such as skin irritation, allergy and the like are easily caused, the protein in stratum corneum is lost, and the immune barrier function of the skin is further damaged; most of the existing whitening products achieve the whitening effect by inhibiting the formation of melanin through a single path, the whitening effect needs to be further improved, and meanwhile, the products are poor in stability or high in irritation and easily cause skin sensitivity after being used for a long time; at present, relatively few skin care products are used for improving the skin darkness and the skin yellowing of people with sensitive skin, and the effect and the irritation of the whitening products are closely related to the compatibility of the formula components, so that the mild or mild whitening skin care products with mild or moderate irritation are always the pursuit targets of people, and the development of the mild whitening products with more comprehensive whitening effect is needed.
Chinese patent document CN 111407680A discloses a whitening skin care product and a preparation method thereof in 14/7/2020, contains a plurality of main whitening components of nicotinamide, acetyl chitosamine, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, phenethyl resorcinol and resveratrol, and can jointly play a whitening role in inhibiting melanin generation, inhibiting melanin transfer and reducing formed melanin multiple paths; chinese patent document CN113648258A discloses a whitening composition for sensitive skin and application thereof in 2021, 11 months and 16 days, wherein the composition comprises tranexamic acid, carnosine, nonapeptide 1, magnolia sieboldii extract and hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid; the mass ratio of tranexamic acid, carnosine, nonapeptide 1, magnolia sieboldii extract and hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid is (1-5): (0.1-1): (1-2): (0.5-2): (1-5), the whitening composition and the application product have better whitening effect and high safety, have the effects of inhibiting inflammatory reaction and relieving sensitive skin, and are particularly suitable for people with sensitive skin; chinese patent document CN113768818A discloses a whitening anti-aging composition, a cosmetic and a preparation method thereof in 2021, 12 months and 10 days, wherein the whitening anti-aging composition comprises the following components: 0.05-3 parts of arbutin, 0.05-3 parts of ascorbic acid glucoside, 0.001-0.1 part of glutathione, 0.5-5 parts of nicotinamide, 0.1-2 parts of tranexamic acid, 0.0005-0.05 part of dipeptide diaminobutyrylbenzylamide diacetate, 0.00005-0.005 part of acetyl tetrapeptide-4.0001-0.005 part of oligopeptide, wherein arbutin, ascorbic acid glucoside, glutathione, nicotinamide and tranexamic acid are selected as whitening components; dipeptide diaminobutyrylbenzyl amide diacetate, acetyl tetrapeptide-2 and oligopeptide-4 are selected as anti-aging components, and the whitening component and the anti-aging component have a synergistic effect, so that the whitening and anti-aging effects of the composition can be remarkably improved under the combined action. However, these whitening compositions are either aimed at whitening without being directed to sensitive skin, have a single action mechanism, have a poor whitening effect, and have unknown stability and skin sensitivity after long-term use.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the problems in the prior art, the invention provides a mild whitening composition and a whitening cream thereof, the mild whitening composition innovatively helps skin whitening from the action of strengthening melanin metabolism, continuously blocking melanin transfer, inhibiting melanin generation and promoting transdermal absorption, and is applied to the preparation of the whitening cream.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
a mild whitening composition comprising: glabridin extract, niacinamide, acetyl chitosamine, ascorbyl glucoside, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and zymolytic phosphatide.
Further, the whitening composition includes: 0.01-0.5 part of glabridin extract, 2-8 parts of nicotinamide, 0.5-2 parts of acetyl chitosamine, 1-5 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 1-5 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and 0.5-2 parts of enzymolysis phospholipid.
Further, the glabridin extract is one or more of glabrous licorice root extract, glabrous licorice leaf extract, licorice flavonoid and glabridin.
In addition, the invention also provides a whitening cream which comprises a phase A, a phase B, a phase C, a phase D and a phase E, wherein the phase A comprises a humectant, a thickening agent, deionized water, an antioxidant and a preservative; the phase B comprises compound grease, an emulsifier and a soothing agent; the phase C comprises glabridin extract and humectant; the phase D comprises deionized water, ascorbyl glucoside, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid, a buffer solution and a preservative, and the phase E comprises nicotinamide, acetyl chitosamine and zymolytic phospholipid.
Further, the whitening cream comprises: based on the mass parts, the weight ratio of the components,
the phase A comprises: 5-15 parts of humectant, 0.1-1 part of thickener, 0.01-0.1 part of EDTA-2Na, 30-75 parts of deionized water, 0.01-0.5 part of antioxidant and 0.5-1.5 parts of preservative;
the phase B comprises: 1-10 parts of compound grease, 1-5 parts of emulsifier and 0.1-2 parts of allergy relieving agent;
the phase C comprises: 0.01-0.5 part of glabridin extract and 2-5 parts of humectant;
phase D comprises: 3-10 parts of deionized water, 1-5 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 1-5 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid, 2-5 parts of buffer solution and 0.1-0.5 part of sodium hydroxide;
phase E comprises: 2-8 parts of nicotinamide, 0.5-2 parts of acetylcysteine and 0.5-2 parts of enzymolysis phospholipid.
Further, the mass ratio of the composite grease to the emulsifier in the phase B is 4: (0.8-1).
Further, the mass ratio of the buffer solution in the phase D to the ascorbyl glucoside is 1 (1-2).
Further, the soothing agent is one or more of bisabolol, oat extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, purslane extract, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid.
Further, the buffer solution is selected from 2 or more of citric acid, sodium citrate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate and disodium hydrogen phosphate, and the humectant is one or more of glycerol, butanediol, 1,3-propanediol, betaine and glyceryl polyether-26.
Further, the emulsifier is one or more of cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, coco glucoside, C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside and sodium stearyl glutamate.
Further, the thickening agent is one or more of carbomer, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose and acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer.
Further, the compound grease is one or more of shea butter, ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, hydrogenated polydecene, polydimethylsiloxane, isononyl isononanoate and behenyl alcohol.
Further, the antioxidant is one or more of sodium metabisulfite, tocopherol (vitamin E) and tocopherol acetate.
Further, the preservative is one or more of 1,2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, and ethylhexyl glycerin.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening cream, which is characterized by comprising the following steps:
s1, mixing the phase A raw materials, heating to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring and dissolving to obtain a phase A mixture for later use;
s2, mixing and heating the phase C to about 70-75 ℃, and stirring until the phase C is dissolved and transparent to obtain a phase C mixture for later use;
s3, sequentially adding the D-phase raw materials and uniformly stirring until the D-phase raw materials are completely dissolved to obtain a D-phase mixture for later use;
s4, sequentially putting the phase B raw materials into a main pot, heating to 75-80 ℃, homogenizing and stirring uniformly; then adding the phase A mixture, and stirring for 5min at the homogenization speed of 2000rmp/min to dissolve uniformly;
s5, cooling the main pot to 45-50 ℃, adding the C-phase mixture, the D-phase mixture and the E-phase raw materials, stirring at the stirring speed of 100rmp/min for 5min until the mixture is uniform, and discharging the qualified mixture after detection to obtain the whitening cream. .
Among them, in the mild whitening composition of the present invention:
glabridin extract can penetrate into skin and maintain high activity, and has good activity on main melanin synthetic protease: tyrosinase activity, dopachrome tautomerase (TRP-2) activity and the like have very obvious inhibiting effects, and meanwhile, the skin-whitening and efficient antioxidant anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effects are achieved, and the whitening effect of the glabridin is found to be 232 times higher than that of vitamin C by detecting the IC50 value of melanin inhibition;
on one hand, the acetyl chitosamine normalizes the glycoprotein metabolism on the surface of keratinocytes, so that the keratinocytes renewed to the outermost layer form tiny scales and naturally fall off, thereby removing the cutin, maintaining the normal metabolism function of the surface layer keratinocytes and promoting the hydration of the skin, thereby effectively increasing the transdermal absorbability of other effective components; on the other hand, the acetyl chitosamine can inhibit tyrosinase activity by inhibiting the glycosylation of tyrosinase, reduce the synthesis of melanin, reduce the damage of free radicals to skin, resist wrinkle and aging and enhance the repair capability of skin tissues.
The hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid is a very effective biological buffering agent, can maintain the structure of biological enzyme and the function of active ingredients, promote the absorption of the active ingredients, soften cutin and mildly promote the peeling of old cutin cells of skin epidermis;
the nicotinamide can reduce the synthesis of melanin, accelerate cell metabolism, reduce the transfer of the melanin to surface cells and promote the synthesis of epidermal protein;
the ascorbyl glucoside is formed by an antibody and collagen, is a necessary substance for tissue repair, has the functions of resisting oxidation and free radicals and inhibiting the formation of tyrosinase, and thus achieves the effects of whitening and lightening spots;
the natural zymolytic phospholipid has a transdermal transfer effect, an active substance pool is formed in the intercellular space, so that the active substance passes through the stratum corneum along the concentration gradient to be carried out in each layer of cells of the epidermis, and meanwhile, the natural zymolytic phospholipid has the effects of promoting the synthesis of type IV and type VII collagen and elastin, promoting the generation of epidermal-dermal adhesion protein, promoting the synthesis of sodium hyaluronate and the like;
the preparation method comprises the following steps of reasonably mixing components of a glycyrrhiza glabra extract with multi-channel whitening and mild effects, nicotinamide, acetyl chitosamine, ascorbyl glucoside, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and enzymatic hydrolysis phospholipid according to a certain mass ratio to prepare the glycyrrhiza glabra extract with the multi-channel whitening and mild effects.
In addition, the whitening cream prepared by the invention is prepared by compounding the emulsifier with specific type and content and the compound grease with specific type, the phase B designed by the bionic sebum membrane is prepared, the formed liquid crystal has a large number of structures, uniform shape and particle size and high stability, and the phase B also has anti-allergy and soothing biological activity, can promote the mild whitening active ingredients to permeate into the skin cuticle, improves the moisture retention and whitening effects of the skin, and has excellent use feeling.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
1. the skin whitening cream has the advantages that the skin whitening is helped from the action of four paths of strengthening melanin metabolism, continuously blocking melanin transfer, inhibiting melanin generation and promoting transdermal absorption, the glycyrrhiza glabra extract with multi-path whitening and mild effects, the nicotinamide, the acetylcysteine, the ascorbyl glucoside, the hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid and the enzymolysis phospholipid are reasonably prepared according to a certain mass ratio, and the skin whitening cream has the effects of multi-path whitening, permeation promotion and mild effects, is applied to preparing the whitening cream for sensitive skin and has a good whitening effect on the sensitive skin;
2. according to the nature of the raw materials and the physiological characteristics of human skin, the glycyrrhiza glabra extract, nicotinamide, acetyl chitosamine, ascorbyl glucoside, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and enzymatic hydrolysis phospholipid are reasonably compounded to act on the skin from four dimensions: the hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid and the acetyl chitosamine can strengthen skin metabolism, mildly promote old keratinocyte peeling of skin epidermis, improve skin glossiness and softness, and promote absorption of other components; the nicotinamide can continuously block the synthesis of melanin, reduce the transfer of the melanin to epidermal cells, promote the synthesis of epidermal protein, and transfer the melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes, thereby achieving the whitening effect; the ascorbic acid glucoside and glabridin extract can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and dopachrome tautomerase (TRP-2), and has the effects of resisting oxidation and free radicals, so that the synthesis of melanin is inhibited in multiple ways to achieve the whitening effect; the acetylcysteine and the natural zymolytic phospholipid promote the hydration of the skin, strengthen the transdermal transmission and effectively enhance the absorption of the whitening components;
3. the whitening cream prepared by the invention is prepared by compounding the emulsifier with specific types and contents and the compound grease with specific types to obtain the phase B designed by the bionic sebum membrane, the formed liquid crystal has a large number of structures, uniform shape and particle size and high stability, and the B has anti-allergy and relieving biological activity, and is mixed with A, C, D, E, so that the whitening cream can promote mild whitening active ingredients to permeate into skin cuticles, improves the moisturizing and whitening effects of skin, and has excellent use feeling.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a photograph of a face taken by subject 1 of panel 2 of trial one before use and VISIACR at days 10, 14, and 28 after use of the sample;
fig. 2 is a photograph of a face taken by subject 2 of panel 2 of trial one before use and VISIACR at days 10, 14, and 28 after use of the sample;
fig. 3 is a photograph of the face of subject 3 of panel 2 of trial one taken before use and VISIACR at days 10, 14, and 28 after use of the sample.
Detailed Description
Experimental procedures according to the invention, in which no particular conditions are specified in the following examples, are generally carried out under conventional conditions, or under conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The various chemicals used in the examples are commercially available.
Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. The terminology used in the description of the invention herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of the invention.
The terms "comprises" and "comprising," as well as any variations thereof, are intended to cover non-exclusive inclusions. For example, a process, method, apparatus, article, or device that comprises a list of steps is not limited to only those steps or modules listed, but may alternatively include other steps not listed or inherent to such process, method, article, or device.
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the present invention is described in further detail below with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that the description is intended to be exemplary only, and is not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Moreover, in the following description, descriptions of well-known structures and techniques are omitted so as to not unnecessarily obscure the concepts of the present invention.
The invention is further described in the following examples, which are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.
1. Examples 1-5 provide a whitening cream, wherein the formula of each example is shown in table 1 below:
TABLE 1 formulation tables for examples 1-5 (parts by weight)
Figure BDA0003736655190000061
The whitening cream of examples 1-5 was prepared by the following steps:
s1, mixing the phase A raw materials, heating to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring and dissolving to obtain a phase A mixture for later use;
s2, mixing and heating the phase C to about 70-75 ℃, and stirring until the phase C is dissolved and transparent to obtain a phase C mixture for later use;
s3, sequentially adding the D-phase raw materials and uniformly stirring until the D-phase raw materials are completely dissolved to obtain a D-phase mixture for later use;
s4, sequentially putting the phase B raw materials into a main pot, heating to 75-80 ℃, homogenizing and stirring uniformly; then adding the phase A mixture, and stirring for 5min at the homogenization speed of 2000rmp/min to dissolve uniformly;
s5, cooling the main pot to 45-50 ℃, adding the C-phase mixture, the D-phase mixture and the E-phase raw materials, stirring at the stirring speed of 100rmp/min for 5min until the mixture is uniform, and discharging the qualified mixture after detection to obtain the whitening cream.
Comparative examples 1 to 8 provide a whitening cream prepared in the same manner as in example 2, with phase a being the same and with B, C, D, E having different components or ratios, and B, C, D, E in comparative examples 1 to 8 having the composition shown in table 2:
TABLE 2 recipe table (parts by weight)
Figure BDA0003736655190000071
Figure BDA0003736655190000081
Test I, evaluation of whitening and freckle removing effects of whitening cream
1. Test samples: whitening creams prepared in examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 8;
2. the test population: healthy men and women of 25-45 years old have color spots on their faces; work indoors, activities that do not have long or frequent exposure to ultraviolet light; no allergic diseases, no allergic history of cosmetics and other external preparations; no history of photosensitive diseases exists in the past, and medicines influencing the photosensitivity are not used in the near term; the skin of the tested part has no phenomena of birthmarks, inflammations, scars, hirsutism and the like; the test process can be understood, 130 tests are voluntarily carried out, and the test is divided into 13 groups of 10 persons;
3. the test instrument: facial image Analyzer model VISIA-7 (USA)
Figure BDA0003736655190000082
Company), germany CK multifunctional skin tester;
4. the test environmental conditions are as follows: testing the environmental temperature of 20-22 ℃ and the humidity of 40-60%, and carrying out real-time dynamic monitoring;
5. the product using method comprises the following steps: the use amount is as follows: 0.02 g/time, 1 time each in the morning and evening; during the test period, the testers avoid excessive ultraviolet exposure, avoid using preparations containing whitening components and taking vitamin C as main components, tranexamic acid and other preparations, and avoid using skin care cosmetics and the like except for the test samples during the test period;
6. testing part: the entire face;
7. the testing process comprises the following steps:
(1) Testing an instrument:
germany CK multifunctional skin tester: the Lab color model is composed of three elements of brightness (L) and related colors, namely a and b. L denotes light (luminescence), a denotes a range from magenta to green, and b denotes a range from yellow to blue. When the value range of L is from 0 to 100, and L =50, the value range is equivalent to 50% of black; the value ranges of a and b are from +127 to-128, wherein +127a is magenta, and gradually transits to-128 a to become green; in the same principle, +127b is yellow and-128 b is blue. All colors are formed by the mutual change of the three values, L measured by a color meter represents brightness, the change represents the change of the skin black-white degree, and the larger the value is, the more the color is biased to white; a represents the red-green degree, and the change of the red-green degree represents the change of the red-green degree before and after the whitening product is used; b represents the blue-yellow degree, the change of the blue-yellow degree represents the change of the skin blue-yellow degree before and after the whitening product is used, and L, a and b numerical values of color brightness and ITA degrees are measured, wherein the ITA degrees (individual type angles of colors) are used as indexes, the larger the ITA value is, the brighter the skin is, and conversely, the darker the skin is;
VISIA CR takes a photograph of the face: in the panel using the whitening cream of example 2, 3 subjects were randomly drawn and subjected to VISIA CR facial photographing before use and on days 10, 14, and 28 after use of the sample;
(2) Self-assessment:
self-confirmation of skin condition was performed before use and after 28 days after use of the sample, and questionnaires were filled out and evaluated using a scoring method: 10 indicates that the effect is good, 6 indicates that the effect is general, and 1 indicates that no obvious effect exists;
8. calculating and analyzing a test result:
(1) A data arrangement mode: the output data is the average value of 10 persons in each group;
(2) Selecting corresponding areas, selecting 5 points for analysis, including forehead, cheeks and cheeks, finally sorting and averaging to obtain data of the whole face, obtaining values of L, a and b, chroma c and corrected L, and converting the following formula to obtain whiteness ITA degrees:
ITA°=(Arc(L*﹣50)/b)×180/π
Figure BDA0003736655190000091
L*=﹣1.05×(c*-24)…R=1.000
(3) The test results are as follows:
TABLE 3 whitening cream results of whitening and spot-removing effects
Sample name ITA degree (front) ITA degree (rear) △ITA°
Example 1 35.4 39.6 10.2
Example 2 32.8 45.5 12.7
Example 3 30.9 43.4 12.5
Example 4 33.4 44.3 10.9
Example 5 32.8 44.5 11.7
Comparative example 1 35.2 36.3 1.1
Comparative example 2 30.3 32.0 1.7
Comparative example 3 33.5 35.7 2.2
Comparative example 4 36.6 38.5 1.9
Comparative example 5 40.4 44.1 3.7
Comparative example 6 43.2 49.3 4.2
Comparative example 7 35.2 43.2 8
Comparative example 8 35.6 42.3 6.7
As can be seen from the results in table 3 above, the whitening creams prepared in the embodiments 1 to 5 of the present invention have relatively obvious whitening and skin color brightening effects through the synergistic effect of the efficacy components, wherein the whitening effect in the embodiment 2 is the best embodiment of the present invention; compared with the comparative examples 1-6, the C, D, E phase lacks a certain whitening component, so that the whitening and freckle removing effects are poor; comparative example 7 is a case where the ratio of the compound oil and fat to the emulsifier in phase B was changed, and the mass ratio was not 4: (0.8-1), the whitening cream system is not stable enough, and the whitening effect is reduced; comparative example 8 is that the mass ratio of the buffer solution to ascorbyl glucoside in phase D is not 1 (1-2), and its whitening effect is also significantly reduced.
(4) The results of the self-evaluation test are shown in the following table:
TABLE 4 self-evaluation test results
Figure BDA0003736655190000101
As can be seen from the data in table 4, the whitening cream prepared in examples 1 to 5 of the present invention has a better average score in the self-evaluation test, which is much higher than the average score in the self-evaluation test of comparative examples 1 to 8, indicating that the whitening cream of the present invention has a better whitening effect; the average score of the embodiment 2 is the highest, and the embodiment is the best embodiment of the invention;
(5) VISIA CR face photograph result: referring to fig. 1 to 3, it can be seen that when 3 subjects use the whitening cream prepared in example 2 of the present invention, the skin whitening effect is more obvious after 10 th, 14 th and 28 th days, which indicates that the whitening cream prepared in the present invention has a better whitening effect.
Test example two, safety test of whitening cream (test of patch on skin)
1. Test samples: whitening creams prepared in examples 1-5;
2. testing the population: selecting 75 healthy subjects with age of 20-50 years without allergic history of skin diseases, randomly dividing the subjects into 5 groups of 15 persons;
3. the test method comprises the following steps: cleaning the skin of the area to be tested with normal saline, and drying for 5 min; selecting a qualified spot tester, and respectively taking about 0.02g of the cream samples prepared in the examples 1-5 in the spot tester in a closed spot test mode, and externally applying a special adhesive tape to the back of a test subject to inquire the test subject; bathing is prohibited during the test period; the patch part is kept dry within 48h after a test cream sample is attached, a subject is prevented from fierce movement, scratching the patch test part, irradiating sunlight for a long time and the like, the tester is removed and marked after 48h, the judgment is carried out under sufficient light after the pressure mark disappears after 30min, the result is recorded according to the skin reaction grade standard in the skin care product sanitation standard, and the grading standard of the adverse skin reaction is shown in the following table:
TABLE 5 skin adverse reaction grading
Figure BDA0003736655190000111
4. And (3) testing results:
TABLE 6 safety test results for whitening creams
Figure BDA0003736655190000112
As can be seen from the data in table 6, the test results of the skin patch experiments of the whitening creams prepared in examples 1 to 5 are all negative reactions, which indicates that the whitening creams prepared in examples 1 to 5 of the present invention have no potential adverse reaction on human skin, are high in safety and mild, and are suitable for people with sensitive skin.
It should be noted that specific features, structures, materials or characteristics described in this specification may be combined in any combination, all possible combinations of technical features in the above embodiments are not described in order to simplify the description, and those skilled in the art may combine and combine features of different embodiments and features of different embodiments described in this specification without contradiction.
The above-mentioned embodiments only express several embodiments of the present invention, and the description thereof is more specific and detailed, but not construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that, for a person skilled in the art, several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present patent shall be subject to the appended claims.

Claims (10)

1. A mild whitening composition, comprising: glabridin extract, niacinamide, acetyl chitosamine, ascorbyl glucoside, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and zymolytic phospholipid.
2. The mild whitening composition according to claim 1, comprising: 0.01-0.5 part of glabridin extract, 2-8 parts of nicotinamide, 0.5-2 parts of acetyl chitosamine, 1-5 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 1-5 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and 0.5-2 parts of enzymolysis phospholipid.
3. The mild whitening composition of claim 1, wherein the glabridin extract is one or more of a glabrous licorice root extract, a glabrous licorice leaf extract, a licorice flavonoid, and glabridin.
4. The whitening cream is characterized by comprising an A phase, a B phase, a C phase, a D phase and an E phase, wherein the A phase comprises a humectant, a thickener, deionized water, an antioxidant and a preservative; the phase B comprises compound grease, an emulsifier and a soothing agent; the phase C comprises glabridin extract and humectant; the phase D comprises deionized water, ascorbyl glucoside, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid, a buffer solution and a preservative, and the phase E comprises nicotinamide, acetyl chitosamine and zymolytic phospholipid.
5. The whitening cream according to claim 4, comprising: according to the mass portion, the weight is calculated,
the phase A comprises: 5-15 parts of humectant, 0.1-1 part of thickener, 0.01-0.1 part of EDTA-2Na, 30-75 parts of deionized water, 0.01-0.5 part of antioxidant and 0.5-1.5 parts of preservative;
the phase B comprises: 1-10 parts of compound grease, 1-5 parts of emulsifier and 0.1-2 parts of allergy relieving agent;
the phase C comprises: 0.01-0.5 part of glabridin extract and 2-5 parts of humectant;
phase D comprises: 3-10 parts of deionized water, 1-5 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 1-5 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid, 2-5 parts of buffer solution and 0.1-0.5 part of sodium hydroxide;
phase E comprises: 2-8 parts of nicotinamide, 0.5-2 parts of acetylcysteine and 0.5-2 parts of enzymolysis phospholipid.
6. The whitening cream according to claim 5, wherein the mass ratio of the compound grease to the emulsifier in the B phase is as follows: 4: (0.8-1).
7. The whitening cream according to claim 5, wherein the mass ratio of the buffer solution to the ascorbyl glucoside in the phase D is 1 (1-2).
8. The whitening cream according to claim 5, wherein the soothing agent is one or more of bisabolol, oat extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, purslane extract, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid.
9. The whitening cream of claim 5, wherein the buffer solution is selected from 2 or more of citric acid, sodium citrate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate and disodium hydrogen phosphate, and the humectant is one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, betaine and glyceryl polyether-26.
10. The preparation method of the whitening cream according to any one of claims 4 to 9, characterized by comprising the steps of:
s1, mixing the phase A raw materials, heating to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring and dissolving to obtain a phase A mixture for later use;
s2, mixing and heating the phase C to about 70-75 ℃, and stirring until the phase C is dissolved and transparent to obtain a phase C mixture for later use;
s3, sequentially adding the D-phase raw materials and uniformly stirring until the D-phase raw materials are completely dissolved to obtain a D-phase mixture for later use;
s4, sequentially putting the phase B raw materials into a main pot, heating to 75-80 ℃, homogenizing and stirring uniformly; then adding the mixture A, and stirring for 5min at the homogenization speed of 2000rmp/min to dissolve uniformly;
s5, cooling the main pot to 45-50 ℃, adding the C-phase mixture, the D-phase mixture and the E-phase raw materials, stirring at the stirring speed of 100rmp/min for 5min until the mixture is uniform, and discharging the qualified mixture after detection to obtain the whitening cream.
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CN117338608A (en) * 2023-11-09 2024-01-05 广州弥雅化妆品有限公司 Sponge microneedle whitening and freckle removing cream and preparation method thereof

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CN111743796A (en) * 2020-05-26 2020-10-09 泉后(广州)生物科技研究院有限公司 Whitening milk and preparation method thereof
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