CN110711161A

CN110711161A - Leave-on allergy-relieving repair essence mask

Info

Publication number: CN110711161A
Application number: CN201911062736.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 杨文强; 张目; 李继德
Original assignee: Guangzhou Yue Cosmetics Co Ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Yue Cosmetics Co Ltd
Priority date: 2019-11-03
Filing date: 2019-11-03
Publication date: 2020-01-21

Abstract

The invention provides a no-wash allergy-relieving repair essence mask which mainly comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.5-10% of cymbidium, 0.5-15% of opuntia japonica stem extract, 0.5-15% of vaccinium vitis-idaea fruit extract and 0.5-5% of neem leaf extract. The washing-free allergy-relieving repair type essence mask disclosed by the invention can achieve deep allergy-relieving repair, effectively resist the damage of the external environment to the skin, improve the skin immunity, strengthen the skin barrier and repair sensitive skin. The allergy-relieving skin-care facial mask can also be added with allantoin, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate (the molecular weight is less than 10000 daltons), ceramide 3 and trehalose, and the synergistic cooperation of the moisture-preserving, anti-allergy and repairing effective components in the mask can bring the product effect into play better through scientific proportion and compounding.

Description

Leave-on allergy-relieving repair essence mask

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a leave-on allergy-relieving repair essence mask.

Background

The outermost stratum corneum layer of the skin is very thin and is very important for our human body. Our skin presents conditions, most of which are related to the stratum corneum and the barrier function of the stratum corneum. The horny layer is a 'brick wall' structure, the horny cells are bricks, the intercellular substance is cement, and the 'cement' is composed of three physiological lipids, namely ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acid. The skin barrier has several important roles: permeability barriers, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial barriers, toxic chemical and antigen rejection, uv barriers, selective absorption, etc.

When the skin barrier is compromised, the skin is easily sensitized, irritated, allergic, inflammatory, red-faced, dry. General skin barrier damage can be caused by excessive cleaning, excessive cutin removal, hormone component abuse, blind freckle removal and whitening, long-term water shortage of skin, sun exposure, oxidative aging, drug or laser treatment and the like. The surfactant of the cleaning products on the market is excessively cleaned, so that the skin is damaged to different degrees, and therefore, the development of a washing-free essence mask for relieving and repairing the skin for a long time is needed.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a leave-on allergy-relieving repair essence mask.

The allergy-relieving repair essence mask mainly comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

0.5-10% of Cistus simplicifolia (CISTUS simpliensis) extract,

0.5-15% of stem extract of Opuntia STREPTACANTHA,

0.5-15% of the extract of Vaccinium MACROCARPON (Vaccinium MACROCARPON),

0.5-5% of neem (Melia Azadirachta) leaf extract.

In some embodiments, the allergy-relieving repair essence mask can further comprise the following components in percentage by mass:

0.05 to 0.5 percent of allantoin,

0.01 to 0.2 percent of hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate,

30.01 to 0.5 percent of ceramide,

trehalose 0.5-1%;

wherein the molecular weight of the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate is less than 10000 daltons.

In some embodiments, the allergy-relieving repair essence mask further comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

3 to 15 percent of polyhydric alcohol,

0.03 to 0.5 percent of preservative,

0.15 to 1.2 percent of rheology modifier,

0.01-0.5% of pH value regulator.

The polyalcohol can be one or more of glycerol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, sorbitol, ethanol, polyethylene glycol-8, polyethylene glycol-32, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, glyceryl polyether-26, polyglycerol-10 and polyglycerol-8.

In some of the embodiments, the polyol is composed of glycerol, 1, 3-propanediol and 1, 3-butanediol, and the mass ratio of the glycerol, the 1, 3-propanediol and the 1, 3-butanediol is (0.5-3): 1-5.

In some embodiments, the preservative includes, but is not limited to, one or more of methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, chlorphenesin, sodium dehydroacetate, and the like.

In some of these embodiments, the rheology modifier includes, but is not limited to, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, caprylic/capric triglyceride, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, tris (laureth-4) phosphate, polyglyceryl-2-fold hemi-stearate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, caprylic/capric triglyceride, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylate, C13-14 isoparaffin, trideceth-6, sodium polyacrylate, hydrogenated polydecene, trideceth-6, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, carbomer, sodium caprylate, glyceryl behenate, and mixtures thereof, Acrylic acid (ester)/vinyl isodecanoate crosslinked polymer, acrylic ester/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer), sodium polyacryl dimethyl taurate, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, dehydro xanthan gum, sodium polyacrylate, and gellan gum.

The pH value regulator can be one or more of triethanolamine, arginine, aminomethyl propanol, tromethamine, potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide.

In some of these embodiments, the pH adjusting agent is aminomethyl propanol.

In some embodiments, the mask with the allergy-relieving repair essence can further comprise the following components in percentage by mass:

0.01 to 0.05 percent of EDTA disodium,

Betaine 0.5-2.5%

0.5 to 2 percent of PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer,

0.001 to 0.02 percent of aromatic,

C12-13 Alkanopolyether-90.005-0.1%.

The technical scheme provided by the embodiment of the invention has the following beneficial effects:

(1) the allergy-relieving repair-type essence mask disclosed by the invention is prepared by carefully compounding a cymene Cissus trifoliata (Cistus simpliensis) extract, a Vaccinium MACROCARPON (Vaccinium MACROCARPON) fruit extract, an Opuntia STREPTACANTHA stem extract and a Melia azedarach (Melia AZADIRACHTA) leaf extract, has the effects of relieving sensitive skin, increasing skin barrier repair, removing free radicals and promoting collagen generation, can effectively reduce the loss of percutaneous moisture, relieve the dryness and the sensitivity discomfort of the skin and strengthen the moisture retention and the softness of the skin;

(2) according to the allergy-relieving repair type essence facial mask, a plurality of single repair, moisture-retention and allergy-relieving components are cooperatively matched by adding allantoin, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight less than 10000 daltons), ceramide 3 and trehalose, so that an all-round effect is achieved, and the allergy-relieving repair type essence facial mask can deeply moisturize, relieve and repair barriers and relieve discomfort of skins;

(3) the allergy-relieving repair type essence mask disclosed by the invention has strong ion, acid, alkali and shear resistance, is convenient to control production, can bear large active substance content, is fresh and does not become sticky;

(4) compared with the commercially available sticking film type, the washing-free and allergy-relieving repair type essence mask disclosed by the invention is designed into a gel type/cream shape, can be applied to daily work and life before sleeping, is free from cleaning, can act on the face for a long time, is convenient, practical, convenient and fast to absorb, and has a good slow-release effect.

Detailed Description

In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, embodiments of the present invention will be described in further detail below, but the embodiments of the present invention are not limited thereto, and process parameters or conditions not particularly noted may be performed with reference to conventional techniques.

The cymbidium and CISTUS simplicissima (CISTUS simpliensis) extract has main nutrient components of Myricetin glycosides, can protect skin and damage caused by sunlight, accelerate epidermis renewal and also can prevent free radical generation. The cymbidium umbellatum (CISTUS simpliensis) extract is extracted from cymbidium umbellatum leaves of cisternaceae, and can be extracted by a conventional method by using water, alcohol and the like as solvents. Such as: extracting with water as solvent for 1-3 times, mixing extractive solutions, and filtering. Suitable Ciste 'M @ Inspiratis extracts may comprise Ciste' M @ (from Fushan New Engineers, Inc.).

The stem extract of the prickly pear (Opuntia STREPTACANTHA) is rich in various active ingredients, has an excellent cell relieving function, has an obvious protective effect on cell injury caused by common chemical irritants and ultraviolet rays in cosmetics, can obviously relieve the common phenomena of redness, pruritus and the like of sensitive skin, and has the advantages and characteristics of broad-spectrum bacteriostasis, anti-inflammation, analgesia, cell membrane and DNA protection, redness removal, repair and the like. The stem extract of Opuntia STREPTACANTHA (Opuntia STREPTACANTHA) of the present invention is extracted from the stem of Opuntia STREPTACANTHA of Opuntia family, and can be extracted with water, alcohol, etc. as solvent by conventional method. Such as: extracting with water as solvent for 1-3 times, mixing extractive solutions, and filtering. Suitable Cactus extracts may include Cactus phytotill Cactus active stock (from vast son Biotech, Inc., Beijing Oriental).

The main nutrient components of the VACCINIUM MACROCARPON (Vaccinium MACROCARPON) fruit extract comprise anthocyanin, catechin, vitamin C, carotenoid, vitamin C, E and the like, and have the effects of resisting oxidation, eliminating free radicals, enhancing the elasticity and strength of blood vessels, improving microcirculation, promoting the synthesis of collagen, increasing the smoothness and elasticity of skin, and inhibiting inflammation and allergy. Indian tribe in North America is often used for wound healing after smearing, early British hydrangea is used for preventing scurvy caused by VC deficiency, and according to the report of British medical science in 1998, anthocyanin can assist urethra in preventing bacterial attachment and is very effective for preventing common urinary tract infection of women. The Vaccinium MACROCARPON (Vaccinium MACROCARPON) fruit extract is extracted from the fruit of Vaccinium MACROCARPON of Ericaceae, and can be extracted with water, alcohol, etc. as solvent by conventional method. Such as: extracting with water as solvent for 1-3 times, mixing extractive solutions, and filtering. Suitable cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon) fruit extracts may include cranberry extract (from Hiragana Biotech limited).

The neem (Melia Azadirachta) leaf extract provided by the invention comprises the following main nutritional components: azadirachtin, azadirachtin lactone and quercetin. Inhibit histamine, COX (cyclooxygenase), and mediator release. In addition, it also has skin whitening effect. The neem (Melia Azadirachta) leaf extract is extracted from neem leaves of Meliaceae, and can be extracted by conventional method with water, alcohol, etc. as solvent. Such as: extracting with water as solvent for 1-3 times, mixing extractive solutions, and filtering. Suitable neem (Melia Azadirachta) leaf extracts may include neem leaf extract (from the same chemical company, Inc. of Guangzhou)

The invention is further illustrated by the following examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 4, taking the following raw materials in weight percent: water, disodium EDTA, 1, 3-butanediol, glycerol, 1, 3-propanediol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, trehalose, betaine, p-hydroxyacetophenone, sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, 1, 2-hexanediol, allantoin, ceramide 3, C12-13-alkanol polyether-9, flower extract of Osmanthus FRAGRANS (Osmanthus FRAGRANS), extract of Cistus simplicifolia (Cistus simpliensis), fruit extract of Vaccinium MACROCARPON (Vaccinium MACROCARPON), stem extract of Opuntia ficus-indica (Opuntia STREPTACANTHA), leaf extract of Azadirachta indica (Melia AZADIRACHTA), and aminomethyl propanol. The specific ratio is shown in table 1.

Table 1: ingredient proportion table of examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4

。

The masks obtained in examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were used as a control test, and the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin, the patch test on human skin, the lactic acid stimulation test, and the hyaluronidase inhibition test were performed.

1. Skin stratum corneum moisture test

The skin is possibly damaged and the allergy probability is increased as the water content of the skin cuticle is reduced and the percutaneous water loss is increased, the skin cuticle has high water content and the percutaneous water loss is reduced to indicate that the skin barrier damage degree is smaller as measured by a German CK skin tester MAP580, and the anti-allergy effect of the sample is better.

The test method comprises the following steps: 180 volunteers with similar skin conditions (severe facial flushing) were selected, randomly divided into 9 groups, and the facial masks of examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4 were applied for 8-12 hours, followed by facial cleansing, and facial conditions were evaluated 2 hours later, with the evaluation indexes of stratum corneum water content, percutaneous water loss TEWL, and facial flushing degree; specifically, 5 degree grades are divided, and the degree grades are represented by integers of 0 to 4 (wherein 0= none, 1= light, 2= medium; 3= heavy, 4= extremely heavy), and specific indexes can be found in table 2 below.

Table 2: grade index table

。

And (3) testing results: the facial mask is applied to the face of a volunteer for 8-12 hours, then the face is cleaned, the flushing degree of the face of the volunteer and the skin water content and the percutaneous water loss condition are observed for 2 hours, then the facial mask is graded according to the degree grade of a table 2, and the specific results are detailed in a table 3:

table 3: skin condition of volunteers

。

As can be seen from the data in table 3 above, the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the face of the volunteers is obviously improved by using the facial mask of the present invention, which indicates that the facial masks of embodiments 1 to 5 of the present invention have good moisturizing effects, wherein the moisturizing effect of embodiment 3 is the best.

2. Human skin patch test

And selecting a proper subject to carry out a human skin patch test, observing the reaction degree of the sample to the human skin according to the patch result, and carrying out statistical analysis on the result to identify the skin allergy degree, thereby evaluating the anti-allergy effect of the sample.

The test method comprises the following steps: 270 subjects with fragile muscles were selected and the mask bodies of examples 1-5 and the mask bodies of comparative examples 1-4 were each placed in a volume of about 0.020-0.025g, respectively, in 9 plaque test chamber and applied to the arms of the subjects using the closed patch test method. After 24 hours, the skin reaction condition is observed after the skin reaction condition is observed for 0.5 hour, 24 hours and 48 hours if the residual product is slightly wiped off by a wet paper towel, the results are recorded according to the skin reaction grading standard in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition), and the number of 1-grade adverse skin reactions in 30 subjects is more than 5, or the number of 2-grade adverse skin reactions in 2 subjects (the number of 2-grade adverse skin reactions in the deodorization product patch test is more than 5), or any 1-grade 3 or more than 3-grade adverse skin reactions occur, the skin adverse reaction of the tested object to the human body is judged. Specific criteria can be seen in table 4 below.

Table 4: grade index table

And (3) testing results: the patch was applied to the arm of the subject and the skin reaction was observed at 0.5 hour, 24 hours and 48 hours after 24 hours by removing the patch tester. The reaction condition of the facial mask group on human skin is evaluated according to the patch result, then the facial mask group is graded according to the degree grade of a table 4, and the specific result is detailed in a table 5:

TABLE 5 volunteer Patch test data sheet (48 hours later observation)

。

As can be seen from the data in the above Table 5, the anti-allergy skin-care facial masks of examples 1 to 5 have quick anti-allergy effect and can remarkably reduce erythema and redness of the skin. The effective rate is high, and the anti-allergy effect is good, wherein the anti-allergy effect of the example 3 is optimal.

3. Lactic acid stimulation test

Lactic acid irritation test, lactic acid causes skin irritation at a certain concentration for a certain period of time. The anti-allergy efficacy was evaluated on the basis of the reduction of the degree of sting.

The test method comprises the following steps: 270 volunteers (women aged 18-60) cleaned their nasolabial folds with dry make-up cotton. Applying 10% lactic acid to nasolabial sulcus and any cheek (the other cheek was coated with domestic water as a control) at room temperature induced skin redness and inflammation. After 10 minutes, when the test subjects felt stabbing pain, the facial mask solutions of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were applied to the sites to which the lactic acid was applied, respectively. The testee was scored at 30 minutes, 1 hour and 24 hours by 4 minutes method according to the pain, and the degree of stabbing pain and red swelling after using the anti-allergic facial mask liquid were judged. Specifically, 4 degree ranks are divided, and the degree ranks are represented by integers of 0 to 3 (where 0= none, 1= light, 2= medium; 3= heavy). Specific criteria can be found in table 6 below.

Table 6: grade index table

。

And (3) testing results: in 30 subjects, the number of people with grade 1 adverse skin reactions is more than 5, the number of people with grade 2 adverse skin reactions is more than 2, or any grade 1 adverse skin reactions, grade 3 adverse skin reactions or more than 3 adverse skin reactions occur, and the test object is judged to have adverse skin reactions on the human body. Specific criteria can be found in table 7 below:

table 7: volunteer lactic acid sting test data sheet (30 minutes later observation)

。

As can be seen from the data in Table 7, the pain sensation was reduced by 80 to 90% and the degree of erythema was reduced after applying the masks of examples 1 to 5 for 30 minutes, wherein the effect of reducing the skin stinging sensation and redness of the mask of example 3 was significant and optimal.

4. Hyaluronidase (HAase) inhibition assay

Hyaluronidase is a participant of type I anaphylactic reaction, hyaluronidase has strong correlation with inflammation and allergy, researches report that various medicaments for releasing histamine from mast cells can regulate the activity of hyaluronidase, and some anti-allergy medicaments have strong inhibition on the activity of hyaluronidase, so that the inhibition on the activity of hyaluronidase is used as an index for researching the anti-allergic effect.

Hyaluronic acid is the component with the largest content and proportion in extracellular matrix, has strong water absorption capacity and adhesion, can regulate and control secretion of cell factors, and influences growth, proliferation, migration and differentiation of cells, thereby playing a main role in maintaining moisture and elasticity of skin, healing wounds, forming blood vessels and the like. Hyaluronidase is a specific lyase of hyaluronic acid, and inhibiting the activity of hyaluronic acid can ensure the content and normal function of hyaluronic acid. The hyaluronidase inhibition experiment is the most typical in vitro method for evaluating the anti-allergic activity, the anti-allergic activity of a substance is evaluated by taking the hyaluronidase inhibition rate as an index, and the higher the hyaluronidase inhibition rate is, the stronger the anti-allergic activity is.

The test method comprises the following steps:

the inhibition rate of hyaluronidase is tested by using an Elson-Morgan improvement method. In the examples and comparative examples shown in Table 8, the addition ratio of Citrium cymosum (Cistus simpliensis) extract, Vaccinium macrocarpon (Vaccinium macroproppon) fruit extract, Opuntia STREPTACANTHA (Opuntia STREPTACANTHA) stem extract, and Azadirachta indica (Meliaazadirachta) leaf extract was adjusted to 100% with deionized water.

Table 8: ingredient proportion table of examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4

。

1. Test tubes No. 2 (0.5 mL of sample solution and 0.5mL of hyaluronidase at a concentration of 500U/mL), test tubes No. 3 and 4 (0.5 g of distilled water and 0.5mL of PH =5.4 buffer solution), and incubating at 37 ℃ for 20min, and test tubes No. 1 to 4 are added with 0.1mL (2.5mol/L) of calcium chloride solution and incubated at 37 ℃ for 20min; 1. adding 0.5mL of 0.5mg/mL potassium hyaluronate into the test tube No. 3, adding 0.5mL of pH =5.4 buffer solution into the test tube No. 2 and the test tube No. 4, and preserving the temperature for 40min at 37 ℃; standing at room temperature for 10min, adding 0.5mL of acetylacetone solution (3.5 mL of acetylacetone dissolved in 50mL of 0.1mol/L sodium carbonate solution), 0.1mL of NaOH solution (5 mol/L) and 0.5mL of distilled water, and placing in boiling water bath for 15 min; cooling for 5min, and placing in ice water bath for 10 min; standing at room temperature for 10min, adding 1mL P-DAB color developing agent (0.8 g DBMA, 15mL concentrated HCl and anhydrous ethanol, and mixing well); after shaking sufficiently, 3.5mL of absolute ethanol was added, the mixture was left at room temperature for 30min for color development, and the absorbances A1, A2, A3 and A4 in test tubes No. 1 to 4 were measured at 530nm, respectively. The inhibition rate of hyaluronidase was calculated according to the following formula:

hyaluronidase inhibition (%) =

The specific test results are detailed in table 9 below:

table 9: data table of hyaluronidase inhibition rates of masks of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 4

。

As can be seen from the data in table 9 above, the facial mask of the present invention can better inhibit the activity of hyaluronidase, and has good anti-allergy efficacy, wherein the anti-allergy effect of example 3 is good and optimal.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the present invention in any way, so that any simple modification, equivalent change and modification made to the above embodiment according to the technical spirit of the present invention will still fall within the scope of the technical solution of the present invention without departing from the content of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. The allergy-relieving repair essence mask is characterized by mainly comprising the following components in percentage by mass:

0.5-10% of Cistus simplicifolia (CISTUS simpliensis) extract,

0.5-15% of stem extract of Opuntia STREPTACANTHA,

0.5-15% of the extract of Vaccinium MACROCARPON (Vaccinium MACROCARPON),

0.5-5% of neem (Melia Azadirachta) leaf extract.

2. The allergy-relieving repair essence mask as claimed in claim 1, which is characterized by further comprising the following components in percentage by mass:

0.05 to 0.5 percent of allantoin,

0.01 to 0.2 percent of hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate,

30.01 to 0.5 percent of ceramide,

trehalose 0.5-1%;

3. The allergy-relieving repair essence mask as claimed in claim 1, which is characterized by further comprising the following components in percentage by mass:

3 to 15 percent of polyhydric alcohol,

0.03 to 0.5 percent of preservative,

0.15 to 1.2 percent of rheology modifier,

0.01-0.5% of pH value regulator.

4. The soothing repair essence mask as claimed in claim 3, wherein the polyhydric alcohol is one or more of glycerin, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, sorbitol, ethanol, polyethylene glycol-8, polyethylene glycol-32, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, glyceryl polyether-26, polyglycerin-10, and polyglycerin-8.

5. The allergy-relieving repair essence mask as claimed in claim 4, wherein the polyhydric alcohol comprises glycerol, 1, 3-propanediol and 1, 3-butanediol, and the mass ratio of the glycerol to the 1, 3-propanediol to the 1, 3-butanediol is (0.5-3) to (1-5).

6. The allergy-relieving repair essence mask as claimed in claim 3, wherein the preservative comprises one or more of methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, chlorphenesin, sodium dehydroacetate and the like.

7. The allergy-relieving repair essence mask as claimed in claim 3, wherein the pH value regulator is one or more of triethanolamine, arginine, aminomethyl propanol, tromethamine, potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide.

8. The soothing repair essence mask as claimed in claim 7, wherein the pH regulator is aminomethyl propanol.

9. The allergy-relieving repair essence mask as claimed in claim 1, which is characterized by further comprising the following components in percentage by mass:

0.01 to 0.05 percent of EDTA disodium,

Betaine 0.5-2.5%

0.5 to 2 percent of PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer,

0.001 to 0.02 percent of aromatic,

C12-13 Alkanopolyether-90.005-0.1%.