CN104434768A - Moisturizing lotion with slow-release efficacy and preparation method of moisturizing lotion - Google Patents

Moisturizing lotion with slow-release efficacy and preparation method of moisturizing lotion Download PDF

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CN104434768A
CN104434768A CN201410753516.3A CN201410753516A CN104434768A CN 104434768 A CN104434768 A CN 104434768A CN 201410753516 A CN201410753516 A CN 201410753516A CN 104434768 A CN104434768 A CN 104434768A
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skin
moisturizing
slow release
release effect
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CN104434768B (en
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丁建林
王新权
柴记红
乔晗
邬燕红
刘海勇
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SHANGHAI NEW COGI COSMETIC Co Ltd
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SHANGHAI NEW COGI COSMETIC Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of daily cosmetics, and discloses a moisturizing lotion with a slow-release efficacy and a preparation method of the moisturizing lotion. According to the moisturizing lotion disclosed by the invention, a traditional moisturizer glycerinum, butanediol, a deep moisturizer sodium hyaluronate, betaine, oat peptide and a tremella extract are combined through the formula design, and are simultaneously wrapped by substances silkpatch with a micro network structure; the deep moisturizer is continuously conveyed to a horny layer and a corium layer of skin through the slow-release process of the micro network structure, so as to deeply repair a skin barrier; meanwhile, the traditional moisturizer is also continuously released to an epidermal layer of the skin; and the skin is moisturized by lastingly absorbing external water molecules, thus an effective moisturizing effect is provided.

Description

A kind of have moisturizing astringent of slow release effect and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The invention belongs to daily cosmetics technical field, be specifically related to a kind of to there is moisturizing astringent of slow release effect and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Sense of loving to make up and wearing beautiful clothes, through the ages, owned by everyone.From time immemorial to modern times, the Existence and development of cosmetics experienced by a quite very long process.Before 18th century, people are still quite limited to the understanding of cosmetics.To modern times, especially in recent decades, along with the development of cosmetic science and technique and skin physiology, the understanding of people to cosmetics has had larger change, take beauty treatment as main purpose, turn to beauty treatment and skin protection to lay equal stress on gradually, further develop based on science skin protection, take into account cosmetic result, moisturizing is one of most important function in skin protection cosmetics.
The key that whether beautiful skin is delicate, plentiful, is the water content in skin, uses moisture-keeping cosmetics to be the important channel keeping moisture of skin.So-called moisture-keeping cosmetics, is exactly contain moisturizing ingredient inside cosmetics, can keeps the water content that keratodermatitis is certain, can increase moisture of skin, humidity, to recover gloss and the elasticity of skin.Its feature is the balance that can not only keep moisture of skin, and important oil components, hydrophilic moisturizing ingredient and moisture can also be supplemented, and as the carrier of active component and medicament, make it easily by skin is absorbed, reach conditioning and skin nutrition, repair epidermal barrier function, increase the water content of epidermis, be exactly the object of the water content increasing horn cell, make skin moisturizing, health.In fact in the past, people are not clear especially for the understanding of skin moisture-keeping concept, and bring into use the time of the cosmetics with moistening effect about people, do not have clear and definite boundary in history yet.But from the historical development process of cosmetics, we still can find some clues and traces for the development of moisture-keeping cosmetics.Generally speaking, the development of moisture-keeping cosmetics mainly experienced by following three phases, the first stage: original moisturizing, forms physical isolation mainly through animal oil, plant extract etc.; Second stage: basic moisturizing, the material mainly utilizing glycerol, butanediol etc. to have moisture absorption hydration carries out moisturizing; Phase III: deep moisturizing, mainly carry out physiology reparation by adding the material such as ceramide, collagen protein thus reach the object of moisturizing.
At present, wetting agent kind on the market has a lot, and the moistening effect of different wetting agents and the mechanism of action are also not quite similar, and usually according to the different mechanism of action, wetting agent is divided into 4 classes:
1. close moisturizing.Composition is mainly oils, also known as oils and fats moisturizing.Closed film can be formed at skin surface, thus reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin also can be stoped to absorb moisture from the external world simultaneously.Its shortcoming is too greasy, is only suitable for extremely dry skin or use in bone-dry winter.Youngster for inclined oily skin is then not suitable for, and understands blocked pore and causes acne and acne etc.
2. moisture-absorbing moisture-keeping.This kind of moisturizer is most typical is exactly polyalcohols, use history at most be exactly glycerol, sorbose, propylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol etc.This kind of material has the function absorbed water from surrounding, therefore under the condition that relative humidity is high, fine to the moistening effect of skin.Shortcoming is very low at relative humidity, and cold dry, windy weather, does not only have benefit to skin, can absorb water on the contrary, and make skin drier, cutaneous normal function from skin inner layer.
3. hydration moisturizing.This kind of moisturizer is not oil-soluble, neither water solublity, and belonging to hydrophilic, is the material molten with aqueous phase.It can form a network structure, lightheartedly free water is combined in its net, makes Free water become Bound moisture and not easily evaporate lost, reach moistening effect.It can not absorb water from air or surrounding, also can not blocked pore, hydrophilic and non-greasy, and use very salubrious, this belongs to advanced moisturizing ingredient, is applicable to all kinds of skin quality, various weather, the moisturizer that daytime, evening can use.
4. repair moisturizing.This kind of structure of matter is identical with dermal tissue component or close, easily infiltration and absorbing, and has good biocompatibility, helpful reparation horny layer moisture barrier or have the function of repairing dermal connective tissue.Hyaluronic acid, collagen protein, avenabeta glucosan, vitamin, tea polyphenols, chitin etc.
After entering 21 century, the progress of research of the fast development due to science and technology and the physiological structure characteristic to skin itself, although it is found that the traditional moisturizing ingredient merely extracted from occurring in nature can play the object of skin moisturizing to a certain extent, but the effectiveness of its moisturizing and persistence or barely satisfactory, fundamentally or physiology can not solve the essential problem of xerosis cutis hydropenia.
Summary of the invention
In order to solve the shortcoming and defect part of prior art, primary and foremost purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of moisturizing astringent with slow release effect.
Another object of the present invention is to provide the above-mentioned preparation method with the moisturizing astringent of slow release effect.
The object of the invention is achieved through the following technical solutions:
There is the moisturizing astringent of slow release effect, comprise the component of following percentage composition:
The mixture that the preferred PPG-26-butylol polyether-26 of described solubilizing agent, Cremophor RH40 and water form.
The above-mentioned preparation method with the moisturizing astringent of slow release effect, comprises following preparation process:
(1) Polyethylene Glycol-90M is uniformly dispersed with part butanediol obtains A phase;
(2) hyaluronate sodium part butanediol is uniformly dispersed obtains B phase;
(3) deionized water that pantothenylol part heating disinfection is crossed is uniformly dispersed in advance obtains C phase;
(4) essence is carried out being dissolved to solubilizing agent in advance transparently obtain D phase;
(5) allantoin, glycerol, remaining butanediol and antiseptic are fully dissolved in remaining deionized water, add finely dispersed A, B and C phase more successively, after stirring, warming while stirring to 80 ~ 85 DEG C, insulation 15 ~ 35min, obtains aqueous phase E;
(6) when E phase is cooled to 50 ~ 38 DEG C, add Tremella extract, betanin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, oat peptide, common milfoil extract, Semen Pisi sativi extract and Silkpatch, continue to be uniformly mixed formation F phase;
(7) D is added to F phase, after stirring, filters discharging, namely obtain the moisturizing astringent with slow release effect.
Filter described in step (7) and refer to 200 order filter-cloth filterings.
Instant component effect is as follows:
Silkpatch
Silkpatch is a kind of microcosmos network structure set up by water, glycerol, glycerine polyacrylate, phenoxyethanol, hydrolyzed silkworm silk and sodium alginate, this microstructure can well wrap up the active substance in cosmetics, then slow release is carried out to active substance, make the functional component of cosmetics can act on skin endlessly, reach good skin effect.
Hydrolyzed silkworm silk in Silkpatch is the catabolite of silkworm fibroin, that natural silk is hydrolyzed and obtains under felicity condition, it is transparent weak yellow liquid, molecular weight is between 300-5000, the hydrolyzed silkworm silk water solublity of this molecular weight is good, and can keep the good characteristic of fibroin crystallization; The basic structural unit of hydrolyzed silkworm silk is aminoacid, structure there are many hydrophilic radicals (as-OH ,-COOH ,-NH2, >NH etc.) be in the surface of molecule stereo structure, hydrone can be caught as hands, water is held onto, having excellent moisture-absorbing moisture-keeping effect, is a kind of natural moisture preserving agent of unique properties.Hydrolyzed silkworm silk is that it can improve the physiological function of skin self as the feature of wetting agent, the own moisture-retaining capacity of skin is improved, simultaneously, the aminoacid composition of hydrolyzed silkworm silk forms very similar to the aminoacid of the elastin laminin in human body skin, collagen protein, nature moisturizing factor etc., have the good reputation of " Second Skin ", the effect of nutrition skin, slow down aging, minimizing wrinkle can be played, can also the activity of restraint of tyrosinase, reduce melanin and formed.
Hyaluronic acid (Hyaluronic acid)
Hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronic acid, is called for short HA, is a kind of acidic mucopolysaccharide material extracted in animal tissue's (bovine vitreous body, cattle umbilicus and cockscomb etc.); Odorless, tasteless is white fibrous solid or powdery granule; Hyaluronic acid is composition important in intercellular substance, has special water retention, is the best material of the occurring in nature moisture retention that finds at present, is called as desirable nature moisturizing factor.Its hyalomitome molecular energy carries the moisture of more than 500 times, when using the skin care item containing HA, HA can form one deck viscoelasticity hydration shell at skin surface, can moistening horny layer, the water absorbing capacity of maintenance and reinforcement horny layer self and barrier function, promote that skin is to the absorption of other active nutrient components in skin care item, prevent xerosis cutis, make skin emolliency smooth, delay and prevent skin aging.
Tremella extract
Tremella is Mycophyta, another name Tremella, Tremella etc., tremella polysaccharide is the principle active component of Tremella, wherein α-mannan is again one of chief active polysaccharide component, containing a large amount of hydroxyls in α-mannan molecule, carboxyl isopolarity group, can in conjunction with a large amount of moisture, research shows: the space structure of Tremella extract uniqueness, make it can retain than from heavy sensation of the body 500-1000 moisture doubly, intermolecular being interweaved reticulates simultaneously, effectively moisture is pinned while water suction, play efficient moisture-retention skin-protecting function, α-the mannan of macromolecule has good film property, give the sensation that the Rinsing of skin water is sliding.
Pantothenylol (Panthenol)
Pantothenylol is the precursor of vitamin B5, therefore also known as dexpanthenol, molecular formula C 9h 19nO 4, molecular weight 205.25, boiling point 210 DEG C.Content is no less than the pantothenylol of 98%, and be a kind of colourless liquid to micro-yellow transparent thickness, the special odor that tool is slight, slightly bitterness, slightly hygroscopicity, because it is small molecule structure, more easily infiltrate through in hair, skin and fingernail, and work from " inside "; Containing 3 hydroxyls, have higher physiologically active, be converted into pantothenic acid (precursor of coenzyme A synthesis) after absorption of human body, presenting the biological activity of vitamin, is a kind of wetting agent and nutrition regulating agent of good penetrability.
The moisturizing astringent tool with slow release effect of the present invention has the following advantages and beneficial effect:
(1) the present invention by recipe design by traditional wetting agent glycerol, butanediol and deep moisturizing agent hyaluronate sodium, betanin, oat peptide, Tremella extract combines, use the material silkpatch with microcosmos network structure to be wrapped up simultaneously, by the slow release process of microcosmos network structure, constantly deep moisturizing agent is delivered to horny layer and the skin corium of skin, carry out profound level and repair skin barrier, also traditional wetting agent is released in endlessly the epidermal area of skin simultaneously, Glycerin is carried out by absorption outside moisture continued, thus effective moistening effect is provided,
(2) in formula of the present invention, the effect of wetting agent covers moisture-absorbing moisture-keeping, hydration moisturizing and repairs moisturizing, and has abandoned closed moisturizing, makes while moisturizing, reduces its greasy feeling, reduces the probability that pore blocks;
(3) in formula of the present invention, active component is pure natural components, safety non-toxic, and little to skin irritation, character is gentle, effect stability.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with embodiment, the present invention is described in further detail, but embodiments of the present invention are not limited thereto.
Embodiment 1
A kind of moisturizing astringent with slow release effect of the present embodiment, is prepared from by the component of following percentage composition:
Silkpatch (being purchased from Guangzhou Miao Sen Fine Chemical Co., Ltd)
The above-mentioned preparation method with the moisturizing astringent of slow release effect, concrete preparation process is as follows:
(1) Polyethylene Glycol-90M is uniformly dispersed with part butanediol obtains A phase;
(2) hyaluronate sodium part butanediol is uniformly dispersed obtains B phase;
(3) deionized water that pantothenylol part heating disinfection is crossed is uniformly dispersed in advance obtains C phase;
(4) essence is carried out being dissolved to solubilizing agent in advance transparently obtain D phase;
(5) allantoin, glycerol, remaining butanediol and antiseptic are fully dissolved in remaining deionized water, then add finely dispersed A, B and C phase successively, after stirring, warming while stirring to 80 ~ 85 DEG C, insulation 20min, obtains aqueous phase E;
(6) when E phase is cooled to 45 DEG C, add Tremella extract, betanin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, oat peptide, common milfoil extract, Semen Pisi sativi extract and Silkpatch, continue to be uniformly mixed formation F phase;
(7) D is added to F phase, with 200 order filter-cloth filtering dischargings after stirring, namely obtains the moisturizing astringent with slow release effect.
Embodiment 2
A kind of moisturizing astringent with slow release effect of the present embodiment, is prepared from by the component of following percentage composition:
Silkpatch (being purchased from Guangzhou Miao Sen Fine Chemical Co., Ltd)
The above-mentioned preparation method with the moisturizing astringent of slow release effect, concrete preparation process is as follows:
(1) Polyethylene Glycol-90M is uniformly dispersed with part butanediol obtains A phase;
(2) hyaluronate sodium part butanediol is uniformly dispersed obtains B phase;
(3) deionized water that pantothenylol part heating disinfection is crossed is uniformly dispersed in advance obtains C phase;
(4) essence is carried out being dissolved to solubilizing agent in advance transparently obtain D phase;
(5) allantoin, glycerol, remaining butanediol and antiseptic are fully dissolved in remaining deionized water, then add finely dispersed A, B and C phase successively, after stirring, warming while stirring to 80 ~ 85 DEG C, insulation 30min, obtains aqueous phase E;
(6) when E phase is cooled to 38 DEG C, add Tremella extract, betanin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, oat peptide, common milfoil extract, Semen Pisi sativi extract and Silkpatch, continue to be uniformly mixed formation F phase;
(7) D is added to F phase, with 200 order filter-cloth filtering dischargings after stirring, namely obtains the moisturizing astringent with slow release effect.
The moisturizing astringent moisture-keeping efficacy test within a certain period of time of slow release effect that what embodiment 1 obtained have, observes its safety in use simultaneously.
1. experimenter: healthy women experimenter 33 people, 18 ~ 60 years old age, 44.7 ± 11.4 years old mean age.
Subject enrollment standard: 1. 18 ~ 60 years old healthy volunteer; 2. without anaphylactic disease, without cosmetics, skin care item and other external preparation allergies; 3. the medicine such as any heavy dose of VitC of not oral mistake, beta-carotene, retinoic acid, hormone in nearly January; Also the not medicine such as external hormone, retinoic acid, fruit acid, salicylic acid; 4. neutral or dry skin; 5. this clinical research of voluntary participation signing on Informed Consent Form.
Subject Exclusion Criteria: 1. gestation or women breast-feeding their children; 2. within nearly one week, use antihistaminic or use immunosuppressant person in nearly one month; 3. suffer from inflammatory dermatoses clinical more person or in nearly two months recipient site apply any anti-inflammatory drug person; 4. skin treats that examination position exists cicatrix, pigment, atrophy, nevus flammeus or other flaw and affects result of the test person; 5. outwork person maybe cannot avoid regular Exposure to Sunlight person; 6. the infull person of tested material or data can not be used according to the rules; 7. any factor that may affect result of the test.
2. tested material: the moisturizing astringent with slow release effect of embodiment 1.
3. instrument and equipment: moisture of skin analyzer (Corneometer CM ) adopt capacitance method to be that principle detects, for detection of skin water content of stratum corneum.Measured value is higher, illustrates that keratodermatitis water content is higher.
4. method: choose the two forearm of also labelling experimenter and bend the skin of side antimere 2 pieces of 3cm × 3cm respectively as recipient site and contrast position.Experimenter cleans recipient site and contrast position, carries out non-wound instrument and detect after sitting quietly 20 minutes; Extract 20 microliters of sample respectively and be applied in recipient site; Abundant massage absorption 30 seconds.Use within latter 2 hours, 8 hours and 24 hours, carry out the detection of keratodermatitis moisture.Allow experimenter to go out after 8 hours, but prerequisite must be detected advance after this laboratory is sat quietly 20 minutes and detect again carrying out next time point; In the duration of test of 24 hours, test position should be avoided exposing, and can not with acid, alkaline matter smear, wiping, cleaning; Should tuck in dry after the clear water adhesional wetting of test position gently, must not wiping repeatedly.All detections are all carried out under the non-wound testing conditions of good skin: room temperature 18-22 DEG C, relative humidity 40-60%.
5. statistical method: calculate basic value, 2 hours, 8 hours, 24 hours keratodermatitis moisture content value, keratodermatitis water content relative value (relative value=each time point detected value-recipient site basic value), water content of stratum corneum rate of change (%)=[(when recipient site is each point value-recipient site basic value)-when each (contrast position point value-contrast position basic value)]/recipient site basic value.
SPSS 11.5for windows software kit (SPSS Inc) is adopted to carry out statistical analysis, the basic value of test place and contrast place adopts one way analysis of variance to carry out statistical analysis from the test of difference between different time point, and significance of difference level is set to P<0.05.
Recipient site is as shown in table 1 with contrast position each time point keratodermatitis water content test result.
Table 1 recipient site and contrast position each time point keratodermatitis water content
* shows that recipient site compares with basic value in each time point keratodermatitis moisture content value, has significant difference (P<0.01).
As can be seen from Table 1: the contrast position of not smearing sample is compared with the basic value of recipient site, there was no significant difference; Do not smear the contrast position of sample, basic value compared with each time point, there was no significant difference; The comparison of recipient site and contrast position each time point keratodermatitis moisture content value, at spread product place, water content of stratum corneum value (2 hours) all obviously raises compared with basic value, and prolongation in time, water content of stratum corneum progressively reduces, but still is significantly higher than basic value.Each time point (2 hours, 8 hours, 24 hours) numerical value all has significant difference (P<0.01) compared with basic value.Show the moisture-keeping efficacy of product of the present invention sustainable 24 hours.
Recipient site and blank position each time point keratodermatitis water content relative value's is more as shown in table 2.
Table 2 recipient site and contrast position each time point keratodermatitis water content relative value
* shows that recipient site compares with blank location detection relative value, has significant difference (P<0.01).
As shown in Table 2: recipient site and blank position each time point keratodermatitis water content relative value compare, smear the detection relative value of product of the present invention at each time point all apparently higher than blank position, and all there is significant difference (P<0.01).Show the moisture-keeping efficacy of product of the present invention sustainable 24 hours.
In 24 hours that use tested products of the present invention, there is the skin adverse reactions such as local erythema, pimple, welt, edema in 0 routine experimenter.
As can be seen from above test result: the moisturizing astringent with slow release effect of the present invention after smearing 2 hours, 8 hours and 24 hours, keratodermatitis moisture all significantly increases, show that this has certain moisture-keeping efficacy, and all sustainable 24 hours of moisture-keeping efficacy.And in 24 hours that use tested products of the present invention, there is the skin adverse reactions such as local erythema, pimple, welt, edema in 0 routine experimenter, product use safety.
Above-described embodiment is the present invention's preferably embodiment; but embodiments of the present invention are not restricted to the described embodiments; change, the modification done under other any does not deviate from spirit of the present invention and principle, substitute, combine, simplify; all should be the substitute mode of equivalence, be included within protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (4)

1. there is the moisturizing astringent of slow release effect, it is characterized in that the component comprising following percentage composition:
2. a kind of moisturizing astringent with slow release effect according to claim 1, is characterized in that: the mixture that described solubilizing agent forms for PPG-26-butylol polyether-26, Cremophor RH40 and water.
3. a kind of preparation method with the moisturizing astringent of slow release effect described in claim 1 or 2, is characterized in that comprising following preparation process:
(1) Polyethylene Glycol-90M is uniformly dispersed with part butanediol obtains A phase;
(2) hyaluronate sodium part butanediol is uniformly dispersed obtains B phase;
(3) deionized water that pantothenylol part heating disinfection is crossed is uniformly dispersed in advance obtains C phase;
(4) essence is carried out being dissolved to solubilizing agent in advance transparently obtain D phase;
(5) allantoin, glycerol, remaining butanediol and antiseptic are fully dissolved in remaining deionized water, add finely dispersed A, B and C phase more successively, after stirring, warming while stirring to 80 ~ 85 DEG C, insulation 15 ~ 35min, obtains aqueous phase E;
(6) when E phase is cooled to 50 ~ 38 DEG C, add Tremella extract, betanin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, oat peptide, common milfoil extract, Semen Pisi sativi extract and Silkpatch, continue to be uniformly mixed formation F phase;
(7) D is added to F phase, after stirring, filters discharging, namely obtain the moisturizing astringent with slow release effect.
4. a kind of preparation method with the moisturizing astringent of slow release effect according to claim 3, is characterized in that: filter described in step (7) and refer to 200 order filter-cloth filterings.
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