CN109316432B - Air cushion BB cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Air cushion BB cream and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN109316432B
CN109316432B CN201811405606.8A CN201811405606A CN109316432B CN 109316432 B CN109316432 B CN 109316432B CN 201811405606 A CN201811405606 A CN 201811405606A CN 109316432 B CN109316432 B CN 109316432B
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polydimethylsiloxane
cream
air cushion
colorant
peg
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CN109316432A (en
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苏晋峰
邓伟健
林锦雄
周晓晓
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Beiyouqing Guangdong Health Technology Co ltd
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Beiyouqing Guangdong Health Technology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

Abstract

The invention provides an air cushion BB cream. The air cushion BB cream comprises active functional ingredients of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and a Ruscus aculeatus root extract, an emollient, a humectant, water and ethanol. The air cushion BB cream of the invention is prepared by compounding PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, so that the emulsion is kept stable, the viscosity and the heavy feeling during smearing can be reduced, and the refreshing smearing feeling is provided; the air cushion BB cream has good relieving, anti-inflammatory/anti-allergy effects through the synergistic interaction of the palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and the Ruscus aculeatus root extract; the addition of the preservative is reduced by using part of ethanol to replace water phase components, the irritation of the formula is reduced, the formula is milder, and the risk of skin sensitization is reduced.

Description

Air cushion BB cream and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to an air cushion BB cream and a preparation method thereof.
Background
BB cream is a color cosmetic product applied to the face, BB is an abbreviation of Blemish Balm, and means scar care cream, which is originally designed by a patient who is subjected to laser treatment in Germany, and the main purpose is to cover the flaws, so that higher powder amount is needed to be matched, and in order to improve the emulsion stability, higher content of emulsifier is generally needed to be added, so that the general texture is thicker. The air cushion BB cream is a form used by filling the BB cream into an air cushion packaging material, and as the carrier of the air cushion BB cream is loose and porous sponge, in order to realize better material body adhesion, fresh skin feel and guarantee filling efficiency in production, the viscosity is generally controlled below 10000mPa & s in formula design, but as the BB cream is high in powder content, the stability in a system with too low viscosity is weak, and phenomena such as layering, color streaks and the like are easily caused. How to balance the skin feeling stability becomes a great problem in designing the formula of the air cushion BB cream.
The foundation products need to add a large amount of powder in the formula, the surfaces of the powder are mostly uneven, the uneven surfaces are easy to adsorb microorganisms, the shelf life is prolonged for better controlling the microorganisms, the foundation products need to reach higher preservative adding amount, and the user feedback that the residual products applied to the face cause skin allergy sometimes happens.
BB cream products generally require higher amounts of toner due to the need to achieve better concealer. In order to enable the emulsion to stably wrap the toner, more emulsifier is required to be added to improve the stability of the emulsion, and the risk of product sensitization is increased due to the excessively high addition amount of the emulsifier.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects in the prior art and provides an air cushion BB cream and a preparation method thereof.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that: the air cushion BB cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
0.01% -0.04% of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and 0.2% -1% of Ruscus ACULEATUS (Ruscus ACULEATUS) root extract, 1.6% -70% of emollient, 0.3% -32% of humectant, 10% -60% of water and 0.1% -10% of ethanol as solvents.
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is a synthetic polypeptide consisting of four amino acids. Research shows that the substance can delay and inhibit the generation of excessive interleukin, thereby inhibiting unnecessary inappropriate inflammatory reaction and glycosylation damage. In vitro experiments (such as UV radiation experiments), scientists find that the generation of interleukin can be reduced by adding palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 when the interleukin is generated, and the higher the dosage added in a certain concentration is, the more the interleukin is reduced, which indicates that the inhibition effect on inflammation is more obvious; palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 can reduce the generation of wrinkles, sagging and uneven skin color of the skin by inhibiting inflammatory aging.
Steroid saponin in Ruscus ACULEATUS root extract (RUSCUS ACULEATUS) has effects of stimulating alpha-adrenergic receptor in blood vessel wall, enhancing vasoconstriction, and has good anti-inflammatory effect; the Ruscus aculeatus root extract has effects of inhibiting hyaluronic acid hydrolase and elastase, promoting production of hyaluronic acid and elastin in skin, and delaying aging.
Preferably, the air cushion BB cream further comprises an emulsifier and a skin feel modifier, the emulsifier comprises 2-6% of PEG-10 dimethicone (KF-6017), and the skin feel modifier comprises 0.5-10% of dimethicone (and) dimethicone PEG-10/15 crosspolymer (KSG-210).
PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane is a polyether modified W/Si emulsifier, can form stable emulsion with the particle size of 2-3 mu m, but is easy to cause excessively thick skin feel when added in too high amount.
KSG-210 is a silky tactile silicone elastomer prepared by dispersing 24% of a polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer in 76% of polydimethylsiloxane, and is commonly used in cosmetics to regulate skin feel. But simultaneously, the special chemical structure of the emulsion enables the emulsion to have certain emulsifying capacity, and the skin-feeling refreshing emulsion with the emulsion particle size of 5-20 mu m can be prepared. However, because the particle size of the emulsion formed when the emulsion is used alone is too large, the stability of the formed emulsion is generally weak, and the emulsion is easy to break under extreme conditions (such as high temperature and low temperature) or after being placed for a long time; because of having certain emulsification assisting capability, the dosage of the emulsifier in the formula can be reduced, and the irritation of the formula is reduced.
Preferably, the content of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 as an active effective component in the air cushion BB cream is 0.025% -0.04% by weight of the air cushion BB cream, and the content of Ruscus aculeatus root extract is 0.7% -1% by weight of the air cushion BB cream.
Preferably, the emollient in the air cushion BB cream comprises diisostearyl malate in an amount of 0.1-10% by weight of the air cushion BB cream, dimethicone in an amount of 1-50% by weight of the air cushion BB cream, and phenyl trimethicone in an amount of 0.5-10% by weight of the air cushion BB cream.
More preferably, the emollient in the air bearing BB cream comprises diisostearyl malate in an amount of 2-8% by weight of the air bearing BB cream, dimethicone in an amount of 5-35% by weight of the air bearing BB cream, and phenyl trimethicone in an amount of 2-8% by weight of the air bearing BB cream.
Preferably, the moisturizer in the air cushion BB cream comprises panthenol accounting for 0.1-2% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream, dipropylene glycol accounting for 0.1-10% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream and butanediol accounting for 0.1-20% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream.
Preferably, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane accounts for 2% -4% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream, the content of polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer in the polydimethylsiloxane (and) PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer is 76%, and the polydimethylsiloxane (and) PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer accounts for 1% -3% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream.
Preferably, the skin feel modifier in the air cushion BB cream further comprises silica in an amount of 0.1% to 8% by weight of the air cushion BB cream, a methyl methacrylate crosspolymer in an amount of 0.1% to 5% by weight of the air cushion BB cream, and polymethylsilsesquioxane in an amount of 0.1% to 6% by weight of the air cushion BB cream.
Preferably, the emollient in the air bearing BB cream comprises diisostearyl malate in an amount of 2-5% by weight of the air bearing BB cream, dimethicone in an amount of 20-35% by weight of the air bearing BB cream, and phenyl trimethicone in an amount of 2-5% by weight of the air bearing BB cream;
the humectant comprises panthenol accounting for 0.1-0.5% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream, dipropylene glycol accounting for 0.5-2% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream and butanediol accounting for 2-5% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream;
the skin feel modifier also comprises silica accounting for 0.5-4% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream, methyl methacrylate cross-linked polymer accounting for 0.5-2% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream and polymethylsilsesquioxane accounting for 0.5-2% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream.
Preferably, the content of the ethanol in the air cushion BB cream is 3-8% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream.
Preferably, the air cushion BB cream further comprises a colorant a accounting for 1% -15% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream, a colorant B accounting for 0.1% -1.5% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream, a colorant C accounting for 0.02% -1% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream, a colorant D accounting for 0.01% -0.5% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream, an antioxidant accounting for 0.05% -1% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream, an emulsion stabilizer accounting for 0.1% -3% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream, a preservative accounting for 0.15% -0.9% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream, and a viscosity control agent accounting for 0.1% -3% of the weight of the air cushion BB cream;
the colorant A is titanium dioxide (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, wherein the content of the titanium dioxide is 72.66% of the weight of the colorant A, the colorant B is CI 77492 (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, wherein the content of CI 77492 is 63.58% of the weight of the colorant B, the colorant C is CI 77491 (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, wherein the content of CI 77491 is 59.04% of the weight of the colorant C, the colorant D is CI 77499 (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, wherein CI 77499 is present in an amount of 68.87% by weight of colorant D;
the antioxidant comprises tocopherol, the emulsion stabilizer comprises disteardimonium hectorite, the preservative comprises phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol and caprylyl glycol, and the viscosity controller comprises sodium chloride.
As a preferable air cushion BB cream, the air cushion BB cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
0.025% palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and 0.7% Ruscus aculeatus root extract as active effective ingredients;
4% diisostearyl malate, 30% dimethicone, and 4% phenyl trimethicone as an emollient;
2% PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane as an emulsifier;
1% polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, 2% silica, 1% methylmethacrylate crosspolymer and 1% polymethylsilsesquioxane as a skin feel modifier;
0.2% panthenol, 1% dipropylene glycol and 4% butylene glycol as moisturizers;
titanium dioxide (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminium hydroxide, 0.5% CI 77492 (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminium hydroxide, 0.12% CI 77491 (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) aluminium hydroxide, 0.04% CI 77499 (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminium hydroxide as colorants;
as preservatives, 0.4% phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexyl glycerol, 0.1% caprylyl glycol (and) ethylhexyl glycerol;
and 0.2% tocopherol, 1% disteardimonium hectorite, 32.715% water, 1% sodium chloride and 5% ethanol;
wherein, the weight ratio of the polydimethylsiloxane to the polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer in the polydimethylsiloxane (and) PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer is 24%: 76 percent.
More preferably, the weight ratio of titanium dioxide, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum hydroxide in the titanium dioxide (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide is as follows: 72.66:20:6.4:0.8:0.14, the weight ratio of CI 77492 ((and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) CI 77492, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, disodium stearoylglutamate, and aluminum hydroxide in disodium stearoylglutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide is 63.58:30:5.6:0.7:0.12, and the weight ratio of CI 77491 (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) CI 77491, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, disodium stearoylglutamate, and aluminum hydroxide in aluminum hydroxide is 59.04: 35.00: 5.20: 0.65: 0.11, and the weight ratio of CI 77499 (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) disodium stearoylglutamate (and) CI 77499, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, and aluminum hydroxide in aluminum hydroxide, The weight ratio of polydimethylsiloxane to the stearoyl disodium glutamate to the aluminum hydroxide is as follows: 68.87:25:5.25:0.75: 0.13;
the weight ratio of the phenoxyethanol to the ethylhexyl glycerin in the phenoxyethanol (and) the ethylhexyl glycerin is as follows: 9:1, wherein the weight ratio of the octyl glycol to the ethylhexyl glycerin in the octyl glycol (and) ethylhexyl glycerin is as follows: 7:3.
The invention also provides a preparation method of any one of the air cushion BB creams, which comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing water phase, mixing and dissolving the preservative, the humectant, the solvent, the viscosity control agent and the active functional ingredients, and uniformly stirring;
(2) preparing an oil phase: wetting and dispersing the colorant with a proper amount of emollient, grinding, adding the rest of emollient, emulsifier, skin feel modifier, antioxidant, antiseptic and humectant, homogenizing and dispersing uniformly, stirring and defoaming;
(3) emulsification: slowly adding the water phase into the oil phase under stirring, homogenizing for 3min, transferring, stirring, and defoaming.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: the invention provides an air cushion BB cream and a preparation method thereof. The air cushion BB cream controls the average grain diameter of the emulsion to be 5-10 mu m by compounding and preferably combining PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, can reduce the viscosity and the heavy feeling during smearing while keeping the stability of the emulsion, and provides refreshing smearing feeling; the air cushion BB cream is compounded with the PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane by utilizing the emulsification assisting capability of the polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, so that the addition amount of the emulsifier is reduced, and the irritation of the formula is reduced; the air cushion BB cream has good relieving, anti-inflammatory/anti-allergy effects through the synergistic interaction of the palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and the Ruscus aculeatus root extract; the air cushion BB cream disclosed by the invention has the advantages that the addition of preservatives is reduced by using part of ethanol to replace water phase components, and the surface treatment toner (disodium stearoyl glutamate) with better affinity with skin is selected, so that the irritation of the formula is reduced, the formula is milder, and the risk of skin sensitization is reduced.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a particle size diagram of the emulsion of the air cushion BB cream of the embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the results of an anti-inflammatory/anti-allergic test according to an embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the results of an anti-inflammatory/anti-allergic test according to an embodiment of the present invention.
Detailed Description
To better illustrate the objects, aspects and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples.
Example 1
The air cushion BB cream provided by the embodiment of the invention comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
0.025% palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and 0.7% Ruscus aculeatus root extract as active effective ingredients;
4% diisostearyl malate, 30% dimethicone, and 4% phenyl trimethicone as an emollient;
2% PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane as an emulsifier;
1% polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, 2% silica, 1% methylmethacrylate crosspolymer and 1% polymethylsilsesquioxane as a skin feel modifier;
0.2% panthenol, 1% dipropylene glycol and 4% butylene glycol as moisturizers;
titanium dioxide (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminium hydroxide, 0.5% CI 77492 (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminium hydroxide, 0.12% CI 77491 (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) aluminium hydroxide, 0.04% CI 77499 (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminium hydroxide as colorants;
as preservatives, 0.4% phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexyl glycerol, 0.1% caprylyl glycol (and) ethylhexyl glycerol;
and 0.2% tocopherol, 1% disteardimonium hectorite, 32.715% water, 1% sodium chloride and 5% ethanol;
wherein, the weight ratio of the polydimethylsiloxane to the polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer in the polydimethylsiloxane (and) PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer is 24%: 76%;
the weight ratio of titanium dioxide, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, stearoyl glutamate disodium and aluminum hydroxide in the titanium dioxide (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) distearyl glutamate disodium (and) aluminum hydroxide is as follows: 72.66:20:6.4:0.8:0.14, the weight ratio of CI 77492 ((and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) CI 77492, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, disodium stearoylglutamate, and aluminum hydroxide in disodium stearoylglutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide is 63.58:30:5.6:0.7:0.12, and the weight ratio of CI 77491 (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) CI 77491, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, disodium stearoylglutamate, and aluminum hydroxide in aluminum hydroxide is 59.04: 35.00: 5.20: 0.65: 0.11, and the weight ratio of CI 77499 (and) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) disodium stearoylglutamate (and) CI 77499, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, and aluminum hydroxide in aluminum hydroxide, The weight ratio of polydimethylsiloxane to the stearoyl disodium glutamate to the aluminum hydroxide is as follows: 68.87:25:5.25:0.75: 0.13;
the weight ratio of the phenoxyethanol to the ethylhexyl glycerin in the phenoxyethanol (and) the ethylhexyl glycerin is as follows: 9:1, wherein the weight ratio of the octyl glycol to the ethylhexyl glycerin in the octyl glycol (and) ethylhexyl glycerin is as follows: 7:3.
The preparation method of the air cushion BB cream comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing water phase, mixing and dissolving the preservative, the humectant, the solvent, the viscosity control agent and the active functional ingredients, and uniformly stirring;
(2) preparing an oil phase: wetting and dispersing the colorant with a proper amount of emollient, grinding, adding the rest of emollient, emulsifier, skin feel modifier, antioxidant, antiseptic and humectant, homogenizing and dispersing uniformly, stirring and defoaming;
(3) emulsification: slowly adding the water phase into the oil phase under stirring, homogenizing for 3min, transferring, stirring, and defoaming.
Examples 2 to 5
As the air cushion BB cream of embodiments 2 to 5 of the present invention, the air cushion BB cream has the components in the following weight percentage as shown in table 1:
table 1 formulation of air cushion BB cream of examples 2-5
Figure BDA0001876211720000091
Figure BDA0001876211720000101
Examples 6 to 9
As the air cushion BB cream of embodiments 6 to 9 of the present invention, the air cushion BB cream has the components in the following weight percentage as shown in table 2:
table 2 formulation of air cushion BB cream of examples 6-9
Figure BDA0001876211720000102
Figure BDA0001876211720000111
Examples 10 to 11
The air cushion BB cream used as the examples 10-11 and the comparative examples 3-6 of the invention comprises the following components in percentage by weight as shown in Table 3:
TABLE 3 formulation of air cushion BB cream of examples 10-11, comparative examples 3-6
Figure BDA0001876211720000112
Figure BDA0001876211720000121
Examples 12 to 14
As the air cushion BB cream of embodiments 12-14 of the present invention, the air cushion BB cream has the components in the weight percentage as shown in table 4:
TABLE 4 formulation of air cushion BB cream of examples 12-14, comparative examples 7-9
Figure BDA0001876211720000122
Figure BDA0001876211720000131
Examples 15 to 18
As the air cushion BB cream of embodiments 15-18 of the present invention, the air cushion BB cream has the components in the weight percentage as shown in table 5:
TABLE 5 formulation of air-cushion BB cream of examples 15-18, comparative example 10
Figure BDA0001876211720000141
Figure BDA0001876211720000151
Experimental example 1
The particle size of the air cushion BB cream of example 1, comparative examples 6, 8-9 was measured.
1 drop of each of the samples of example 1, comparative examples 6, and 8 to 9 was dropped on a glass slide, and the drop was pressed from the center with a glass cover to form a uniform coating. The observation was performed using a 16X eyepiece and a 100X objective lens, and the results are shown in fig. 1, and the particle size analysis was performed on the photographed microscope image by using microscope imaging processing software (the average value of the maximum value, the minimum value and the mode value of the particle size in the image is taken as the final result for each group of samples), and the results are shown in the following table 6:
table 6 results of particle size measurement of BB cream as air cushions in example 1, comparative examples 6, 8 to 9
Example 1 Comparative example 6 Comparative example 8 Comparative example 9
Maximum value 11.2 20.6 2.9 15.7
Minimum value 5.3 15.3 1.4 9.4
Mode value 7.2 19.9 2.6 19.0
Average particle diameter/. mu.m 7.9 18.6 2.3 14.7
Experimental example 2
The feel of heaviness on application of examples 1, 10-18 and 6, 8-10 was scored on a trial basis.
Evaluation method
Trial scoring was performed on skin feel when applied for example 1, examples 10-18 and comparative examples 6, 8-10. The use test was performed by 70, 5 volunteers per example. Each of the evaluators smears each sample on the face, scores the face according to the following scale absolute evaluation, sums up the scores of the whole evaluators, calculates the average value thereof, and judges the face according to the following scale judgment criterion. Each sample was sprayed on the face, tried once a day, and evaluated after 1 week.
Evaluation items: skin feel when applied.
Grade absolute rating score:
refreshing: 5 points of
The method is characterized by comprising the following steps: 4 is divided into
In general: 3 points of
And (3) relatively thick and heavy: 2 is divided into
Thickness: 1 minute (1)
Table 7 evaluation results of the heavy feeling at the time of application of example 1, examples 10 to 18 and comparative examples 6 and 8 to 10.
Figure BDA0001876211720000161
(1) As can be seen from examples 1 and 10 to 11, comparative examples 3 to 6: on the premise that the addition amount of the polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer is not changed, the addition amount of PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane is properly reduced to improve the freshness of the formula, but when the content of the PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane is lower than 2%, the total amount of the emulsifier is too low, so that a stable emulsion cannot be formed.
(2) As can be seen from example 1 and examples 12 to 14, comparative examples 7 to 9: on the premise that the addition amount of PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane is not changed, the addition amount of the polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer is properly reduced, so that the freshness of the formula can be improved, but when the content of the polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer is lower than 1%, the total amount of the emulsifier is too low, so that a stable emulsion cannot be formed.
(3) As can be seen from example 1, comparative examples 6, 8 to 9: when the total amount of PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer is unchanged, the higher the proportion of the polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer is, the larger the emulsified particle size is, the fresher the skin feel is, but when the content of the polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer is higher than 1%, the polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer has certain thickening capability, so that the consistency and the heavy feel of the material body are remarkably improved, and mainly because the consistency reaches a certain value, the consistency replaces the emulsion particle size at this time to become a leading factor influencing the skin feel.
(4) From example 1, examples 15-18 and comparative example 10 it can be seen that: the amount of ethanol added in the formulation is increased, and the sample is used with better freshness.
Experimental example 3
The anti-inflammatory/anti-allergic effects of the samples of examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 to 2 were examined.
1. Test method
(1) 55 subjects (30 men and 25 women, age 18-30 years, according to the volunteer selection criteria of the subjects) were selected and randomly divided into 11 groups of 5 subjects each.
(2) Preparation before testing:
(ii) 3% aqueous SDS solution
② hypoallergenic external adhesive plaster (American 3M company)
③ Mexameter MXl8 Red pigment tester (Courage-Khazaka Electronic Co., Germany).
(3) The amount of skin erythema was measured on a predetermined test area of the forearm of the volunteer using a Mexameter MXl8 red pigment tester, and the amount of skin erythema at this time was set to 0 (baseline value). 0.02ml of 3% SDS solution was precisely measured by a pipette, and placed in the center of each patch chamber, and then applied to a predetermined area of the forearm of the volunteer. After 24h of application, the plaque tester was removed. The amount of erythema on the skin was measured after 4 hours, and the amount of erythema at this time was determined to be 100%. The samples of examples 1-9 and comparative examples 1-2 were then applied to specific areas of the volunteer's forearms on days 1, 2 and 3 after SDS treatment, respectively, and the amount of skin erythema was measured 4 hours after each day of application, and the results were calculated and collated as shown in the following table:
table 8 results of examination of anti-inflammatory/anti-allergic effects of the samples of examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 to 2.
Figure BDA0001876211720000181
(1) As shown in Table 8 and FIG. 2, it can be seen from examples 1 to 5 and comparative example 1 that: the anti-allergy effect of foundation is improved with the addition amount of Ruscus ACULEATUS (Ruscus ACULEATUS) root extract, and the anti-allergy effect is saturated at 0.7%;
(2) as shown in Table 8 and FIG. 3, it can be seen from examples 1, 6 to 9 and comparative example 2 that: the anti-allergy effect of the foundation is improved along with the increase of the addition amount of the palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and the anti-allergy effect is saturated at 0.025 percent;
(3) as can be seen from example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 2: when the Ruscus ACULEATUS (Ruscus ACULEATUS) root extract and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 are compounded, the compound has obvious synergistic effect on the anti-allergy effect of foundation.
Experimental example 4
The samples of examples 10 to 14 and comparative examples 3 to 9 were examined for viscosity, stability and irritation.
1. Irritation test (Patch test)
(1) Test method
The test subjects were 30 persons (7 men and 23 women, age 33-53 years), and the test subjects (samples of examples 1, 10-18, and 3-5) were placed in a closed patch test method by using a qualified patch tester, and about 0.020-0.025ml of the test subject was applied to the back of the test subject, and after 24 hours, the test subjects were removed, and skin reactions were observed at 30 minutes (after the impression disappeared), 24 hours, and 48 hours after the patch test, respectively, and the irritation score (skin reaction score is shown in the following table) was calculated;
grading grade: skin reactions
0 minute: negative reaction
1 minute: suspicious reaction, only faint erythema
And 2, dividing: weak positive reaction (erythema reaction); erythema, infiltrates, edema, and possibly pimples
And 3, dividing: strong positive reaction (herpes reaction); erythema, infiltration, edema, pimples, herpes; the reaction can exceed the tested area
And 4, dividing: very strong positive reaction (fusogenic herpes reaction); obvious erythema, severe infiltration, edema, and fusional herpes; reaction beyond the test area
Irritation score ═ Σ (irritation score scale · number of corresponding persons of that scale);
(if three persons showed suspicious responses and 2 persons showed weak positive responses, the stimulation score was 1 × 3+2 × 2 ═ 7);
table 9 results of viscosity, stability, and irritation test of the samples of example 1, examples 10 to 14, and comparative examples 3 to 9.
Figure BDA0001876211720000191
Figure BDA0001876211720000201
2. Stability test
(1) Test method
15.0g of each of the samples of example 1, examples 10 to 14 and comparative examples 3 to 9 was put into a centrifugal tube, centrifuged at 3000r/min by a TDL-80-2B type centrifuge, and the samples were observed at 30min and 60min, respectively.
Table 10 results of stability test of samples of example 1, examples 10 to 14, and comparative examples 3 to 9.
Figure BDA0001876211720000202
Figure BDA0001876211720000211
From the results of the combined irritation test and stability test, it can be seen that the ratio of the emulsifiers in example 1 provides a better balance between stability and irritation than the other groups. Not only maintains good stability, but also has lower irritation.
Experimental example 5
The samples of example 1, examples 15-18, and comparative example 10 were tested for irritation.
The test method comprises the following steps: patch test was performed as in Experimental example 4.
The results are shown in Table 11.
TABLE 11 results of irritation tests for the samples of example 1, examples 15-18, comparative example 10.
Figure BDA0001876211720000212
The experiments in the "skin feel evaluation" have confirmed that the added amount of ethanol in the formulation is increased and the sample is used with better freshness, but in this test it can be seen that there is some irritation to the skin when the added amount of ethanol is more than 5% in the present formulation. In conclusion, 5% of ethanol is added into the formula, so that refreshing skin feel can be provided on the premise of ensuring no stimulation.
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, and although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims (1)

1. The air cushion BB cream is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight:
0.025% palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and 0.7% Ruscus aculeatus root extract as active effective ingredients;
4% diisostearyl malate, 30% dimethicone, and 4% phenyl trimethicone as an emollient;
2% PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane as emulsifier;
1% polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, 2% silica, 1% methylmethacrylate crosspolymer and 1% polymethylsilsesquioxane as a skin feel modifier;
0.2% panthenol, 1% dipropylene glycol and 4% butylene glycol as moisturizers;
8% of a colorant A, 0.5% of a colorant B, 0.12% of a colorant C, and 0.04% of a colorant D as colorants;
0.4% phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol, 0.1% caprylyl glycol and ethylhexyl glycerol as preservatives;
and 0.2% tocopherol, 1% disteardimonium hectorite, 32.715% water, 1% sodium chloride and 5% ethanol;
wherein, the weight ratio of the polydimethylsiloxane to the polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer in the polydimethylsiloxane (and) PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer is 24%: 76%;
the colorant A is titanium dioxide, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, stearoyl disodium glutamate and aluminum hydroxide, the colorant B is CI 77492, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, stearoyl disodium glutamate and aluminum hydroxide, the colorant C is CI 77491, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, stearoyl disodium glutamate and aluminum hydroxide, and the colorant D is CI 77499, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, stearoyl disodium glutamate and aluminum hydroxide.
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