CN110158226A - 一种透气耐磨羊毛衫 - Google Patents

一种透气耐磨羊毛衫 Download PDF

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CN110158226A
CN110158226A CN201810137313.XA CN201810137313A CN110158226A CN 110158226 A CN110158226 A CN 110158226A CN 201810137313 A CN201810137313 A CN 201810137313A CN 110158226 A CN110158226 A CN 110158226A
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yarn
sizing
woollen sweater
fabric
tension
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王硕
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Haiyan County Shuo Chuang Clothing Research Institute
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    • D04BKNITTING
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
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    • D06M15/01Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
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    • D06M15/05Cellulose or derivatives thereof
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    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/18Synthetic fibres consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/24Polymers or copolymers of alkenylalcohols or esters thereof; Polymers or copolymers of alkenylethers, acetals or ketones
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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    • D06M2200/35Abrasion, pilling or fibrillation resistance
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    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种透气耐磨羊毛衫,通过在羊绒中掺杂棉,并以包混的形式混纺纱外包维纶纱线,克服了羊绒纤维短,粗纺难纺高支纱线的问题。用浆料对纱线上浆,浆料与纱线通过大量氢键紧密结合,用本发明浆料上浆后的纱线,伸长率明显降低,保持在0.8%以下,耐磨性明显增强,因此,上述纱线制得的羊毛衫轻薄、透气,手感柔顺。纳米银和聚轮烷相互作用,在织物表面形成无数条细小的电路通道,使得织物的抗静电能力强,织物与织物或织物与接触到的物体之间的摩擦力减小,同时提高了织物的光洁度,降低了摩擦系数,磨损力度大幅降低,耐磨性增强,不易起球。

Description

一种透气耐磨羊毛衫
技术领域
本发明涉及羊毛衫制备技术领域,具体是一种透气耐磨羊毛衫。
背景技术
随着经济的日益发展和人民生活水平的提高,消费观念不断更新,人们对生活质量和生活环境越来越重视,对服装的功能性要求也越来越高,特别是对服装的保健、手感、品质等方面的要求也不断地提高。然而,目前大部分纺织品档次局限于中低档,功能仅局限于单调保暖型,纺织产品的附加值、科技含量还不高,市场竞争力不强。因此,开发区符合时代需求的新产品,以满足消费者健康、舒适、质优的穿着需求是有必要的。
羊绒是高档的纺织原料,纤维卷曲性好、吸湿性较强,长度30~35mm;细度15.5μm左右;短绒率16%以下。由于羊绒纤维较短,粗纺很难纺高支纱线,产品也没有了轻薄、蓬松之感,而精纺产品又没有粗纺产品的柔软和滑糯。现有的羊毛衫保暖效果虽然不错,不过仍然存在易缩水,以及易皱、易起球等缺点。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种能纺高支纱线,轻薄、透气性好,手感柔顺,耐磨性好,不易起球的透气耐磨羊毛衫。
为实现上述目的,本发明的技术方案为:
一种透气耐磨羊毛衫,由混纺纱外包维纶纱线纺织而成;
其中,混纺纱中羊绒占65~75%,棉占10~25%,回潮控制在19~21%,含油率在1~1.5%;棉和羊绒混纺既可提高实纺支数、强力,增加了可纺性,提高了生产效率,降低了成本,还能增加羊绒纤维之间的空隙,使制得的羊毛衫轻薄、透气,手感更加柔顺。
维纶纱线中Tenc e l 纤维占90~95%,回潮率控制在9.5~10.5%,含油率0.25~0.35%。Tencel纤维是一种高湿模量纤维素纤维,具有湿度管理功能、卓越的亲肤特性和抑制细菌滋生三大功能特性,作为外包材料将上述混纺纱包混后,出乎意料地提高了物理耐磨性。此外,原料太干,纺织过程中静电较大,会影响纱线条干粗细不匀,整理时容易形成烂洞;原料太湿,羊绒和棉容易结块、缠绕,本发明限定的上述回潮率下不会出现上述问题,产品质量高。
一种透气耐磨羊毛衫的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
1)包混:按照上述数据制备得到混纺纱外包维纶纱线,其中,清棉工序遵循“勤抓少抓,以梳代打”的原则,降低各部件打手速度,纺出的纱线要求表面光洁、平滑、毛羽少;
2)整经:采用整经机,在保证经轴表面平整、经轴硬度适中的情况下,整经采用“小张力,中车速”的工艺原则,以减少整经过程中纱线的强力损耗和意外牵伸;
3)浆纱:浆纱机进行浆纱,采用“两高一低”浆纱工艺,同时采用“小张力,小伸长”的工艺原则,控制浆纱的总伸长在0.8%以下;
4)织造:采用织布机将浆纱织成胚布,再将胚布制成羊毛衫。
浆料成分及其重量份为30~40份K-5、45~55份低黏氧化淀粉、0.5~1.0份聚轮烷、1~3份纳米银、3~5份羧甲基纤维素和2~4份蜡片。上述浆料中成分含有大量的亲水性基团,与混纺纱和维纶纱线之间均有大量的氢键生成,可紧密地与其结合在一起,不会因为反复洗涤而迅速流失。用上述浆料上浆后的纱线的伸长率明显降低,保持在0.8%以下,耐磨性明显增强。纳米银和聚轮烷相互作用,在织物表面形成无数条细小的电路通道,使得织物的抗静电能力强,织物与织物或织物与接触到的物体之间的摩擦力减小,同时提高了织物的光洁度,降低了摩擦系数,磨损力度大幅降低,耐磨性增强,不易起球。
调浆工艺为使用高压桶调浆,加水400~450份,一次性投料,定黏温度95±1℃,定黏黏度6. 5±0. 5s,漏斗水值 4. 2 s。
浆纱工艺为:
上浆率% 5±0.5
伸长率%<0.8
浆槽温度/℃ 90±1
烘房温度/℃ T1、T295
T3、T490
退绕张力/N 350±50
湿区张力/%浆槽内-0.5
出浆槽1.5
干区张力1700±100
卷绕张力/N 大直径
2500±100
小直径
2400±100
托纱张力/N 2400±100
压浆辊压力/Kn 0速6
40m/min
18~20
上浆率/% 7.5
回潮率/% 8.5
增强率/% 30.5
减伸率/% 7
根据混纺纱外包维纶纱线纺织制得的纱线的强力指标要求,浆纱的张力控制尤为重要,为保证各段张力得到最佳控制,引纱辊至上浆辊一段张力控制及上浆辊至烘房一段的张力控制主要采用了分单元变频调速装置进行张力控制,同时保证各压浆辊、引纱辊高质量运行,使分段张力达到精确控制。保证双浆槽系统中各经纱张力都得到均匀的控制,使进入烘房的各片纱张力一致,要求浆纱的总伸长控制在0.8%以下。
与现有技术相比,本发明的优点在于:通过在羊绒中掺杂棉,并以包混的形式混纺纱外包维纶纱线,克服了羊绒纤维短,粗纺难纺高支纱线的问题,使制得的羊毛衫轻薄、透气,手感柔顺。浆料与纱线通过大量氢键紧密结合,用本发明浆料上浆后的纱线,伸长率明显降低,保持在0.8%以下,耐磨性明显增强。纳米银和聚轮烷相互作用,在织物表面形成无数条细小的电路通道,使得织物的抗静电能力强,织物与织物或织物与接触到的物体之间的摩擦力减小,同时提高了织物的光洁度,降低了摩擦系数,磨损力度大幅降低,耐磨性增强,不易起球。
具体实施方式
下面通过实施例对本发明方案作进一步说明:
实施例1:
一种透气耐磨羊毛衫,由混纺纱外包维纶纱线纺织而成;
其中,混纺纱中羊绒占70%,棉占20%,回潮控制在20%,含油率在1%;棉和羊绒混纺既可提高实纺支数、强力,增加了可纺性,提高了生产效率,降低了成本,还能增加羊绒纤维之间的空隙,使制得的羊毛衫轻薄、透气,手感更加柔顺。
维纶纱线中Tenc e l 纤维占92%,回潮率控制在10.2%,含油率0.33%。Tencel纤维是一种高湿模量纤维素纤维,具有湿度管理功能、卓越的亲肤特性和抑制细菌滋生三大功能特性,作为外包材料将上述混纺纱包混后,出乎意料地提高了物理耐磨性。此外,原料太干,纺织过程中静电较大,会影响纱线条干粗细不匀,整理时容易形成烂洞;原料太湿,羊绒和棉容易结块、缠绕,本发明限定的上述回潮率下不会出现上述问题,产品质量高。
一种透气耐磨羊毛衫的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
1)包混:按照上述数据制备得到混纺纱外包维纶纱线,其中,清棉工序遵循“勤抓少抓,以梳代打”的原则,降低各部件打手速度,纺出的纱线要求表面光洁、平滑、毛羽少;
2)整经:采用整经机,在保证经轴表面平整、经轴硬度适中的情况下,整经采用“小张力,中车速”的工艺原则,以减少整经过程中纱线的强力损耗和意外牵伸;
3)浆纱:浆纱机进行浆纱,采用“两高一低”浆纱工艺,同时采用“小张力,小伸长”的工艺原则,控制浆纱的总伸长在0.8%以下;
4)织造:采用织布机将浆纱织成胚布,再将胚布制成羊毛衫。
浆料成分及其重量份为34份K-5、52份低黏氧化淀粉、0.8份聚轮烷、2份纳米银、4份羧甲基纤维素和3份蜡片。上述浆料中成分含有大量的亲水性基团,与混纺纱和维纶纱线之间均有大量的氢键生成,可紧密地与其结合在一起,不会因为反复洗涤而迅速流失。用上述浆料上浆后的纱线的伸长率明显降低,保持在0.8%以下,耐磨性明显增强。纳米银和聚轮烷相互作用,在织物表面形成无数条细小的电路通道,使得织物的抗静电能力强,织物与织物或织物与接触到的物体之间的摩擦力减小,同时提高了织物的光洁度,降低了摩擦系数,磨损力度大幅降低,耐磨性增强,不易起球。
调浆工艺为使用高压桶调浆,加水450份,一次性投料,定黏温度95±1℃,定黏黏度6. 5±0. 5s,漏斗水值 4. 2 s。
浆纱工艺为:
上浆率% 5±0.5
伸长率%<0.8
浆槽温度/℃ 90±1
烘房温度/℃ T1、T295
T3、T490
退绕张力/N 350±50
湿区张力/%浆槽内-0.5
出浆槽1.5
干区张力1700±100
卷绕张力/N 大直径
2500±100
小直径
2400±100
托纱张力/N 2400±100
压浆辊压力/Kn 0速6
40m/min
18~20
上浆率/% 7.5
回潮率/% 8.5
增强率/% 30.5
减伸率/% 7
实施例2:
一种透气耐磨羊毛衫,由混纺纱外包维纶纱线纺织而成;
其中,混纺纱中羊绒占75%,棉占10%,回潮控制在21%,含油率在1.5%;棉和羊绒混纺既可提高实纺支数、强力,增加了可纺性,提高了生产效率,降低了成本,还能增加羊绒纤维之间的空隙,使制得的羊毛衫轻薄、透气,手感更加柔顺。
维纶纱线中Tenc e l 纤维占95%,回潮率控制在9.5%,含油率0.25%。Tencel纤维是一种高湿模量纤维素纤维,具有湿度管理功能、卓越的亲肤特性和抑制细菌滋生三大功能特性,作为外包材料将上述混纺纱包混后,出乎意料地提高了物理耐磨性。此外,原料太干,纺织过程中静电较大,会影响纱线条干粗细不匀,整理时容易形成烂洞;原料太湿,羊绒和棉容易结块、缠绕,本发明限定的上述回潮率下不会出现上述问题,产品质量高。
一种透气耐磨羊毛衫的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
1)包混:按照上述数据制备得到混纺纱外包维纶纱线,其中,清棉工序遵循“勤抓少抓,以梳代打”的原则,降低各部件打手速度,纺出的纱线要求表面光洁、平滑、毛羽少;
2)整经:采用整经机,在保证经轴表面平整、经轴硬度适中的情况下,整经采用“小张力,中车速”的工艺原则,以减少整经过程中纱线的强力损耗和意外牵伸;
3)浆纱:浆纱机进行浆纱,采用“两高一低”浆纱工艺,同时采用“小张力,小伸长”的工艺原则,控制浆纱的总伸长在0.8%以下;
4)织造:采用织布机将浆纱织成胚布,再将胚布制成羊毛衫。
浆料成分及其重量份为40份K-5、55份低黏氧化淀粉、1.0份聚轮烷、2份纳米银、3份羧甲基纤维素和2份蜡片。上述浆料中成分含有大量的亲水性基团,与混纺纱和维纶纱线之间均有大量的氢键生成,可紧密地与其结合在一起,不会因为反复洗涤而迅速流失。用上述浆料上浆后的纱线的伸长率明显降低,保持在0.8%以下,耐磨性明显增强。纳米银和聚轮烷相互作用,在织物表面形成无数条细小的电路通道,使得织物的抗静电能力强,织物与织物或织物与接触到的物体之间的摩擦力减小,同时提高了织物的光洁度,降低了摩擦系数,磨损力度大幅降低,耐磨性增强,不易起球。
调浆工艺为使用高压桶调浆,加水400份,一次性投料,定黏温度95±1℃,定黏黏度6. 5±0. 5s,漏斗水值 4. 2 s。
浆纱工艺为:
上浆率% 5±0.5
伸长率%<0.8
浆槽温度/℃ 90±1
烘房温度/℃ T1、T295
T3、T490
退绕张力/N 350±50
湿区张力/%浆槽内-0.5
出浆槽1.5
干区张力1700±100
卷绕张力/N 大直径
2500±100
小直径
2400±100
托纱张力/N 2400±100
压浆辊压力/Kn 0速6
40m/min
18~20
上浆率/% 7.5
回潮率/% 8.5
增强率/% 30.5
减伸率/% 7
实施例3:
一种透气耐磨羊毛衫,由混纺纱外包维纶纱线纺织而成;
其中,混纺纱中羊绒占70%,棉占15%,回潮控制在19%,含油率在1.2%;棉和羊绒混纺既可提高实纺支数、强力,增加了可纺性,提高了生产效率,降低了成本,还能增加羊绒纤维之间的空隙,使制得的羊毛衫轻薄、透气,手感更加柔顺。
维纶纱线中Tenc e l 纤维占90%,回潮率控制在10.5%,含油率0.35%。Tencel纤维是一种高湿模量纤维素纤维,具有湿度管理功能、卓越的亲肤特性和抑制细菌滋生三大功能特性,作为外包材料将上述混纺纱包混后,出乎意料地提高了物理耐磨性。此外,原料太干,纺织过程中静电较大,会影响纱线条干粗细不匀,整理时容易形成烂洞;原料太湿,羊绒和棉容易结块、缠绕,本发明限定的上述回潮率下不会出现上述问题,产品质量高。
一种透气耐磨羊毛衫的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
1)包混:按照上述数据制备得到混纺纱外包维纶纱线,其中,清棉工序遵循“勤抓少抓,以梳代打”的原则,降低各部件打手速度,纺出的纱线要求表面光洁、平滑、毛羽少;
2)整经:采用整经机,在保证经轴表面平整、经轴硬度适中的情况下,整经采用“小张力,中车速”的工艺原则,以减少整经过程中纱线的强力损耗和意外牵伸;
3)浆纱:浆纱机进行浆纱,采用“两高一低”浆纱工艺,同时采用“小张力,小伸长”的工艺原则,控制浆纱的总伸长在0.8%以下;
4)织造:采用织布机将浆纱织成胚布,再将胚布制成羊毛衫。
浆料成分及其重量份为37份K-5、50份低黏氧化淀粉、0.7份聚轮烷、1份纳米银、3份羧甲基纤维素和4份蜡片。上述浆料中成分含有大量的亲水性基团,与混纺纱和维纶纱线之间均有大量的氢键生成,可紧密地与其结合在一起,不会因为反复洗涤而迅速流失。用上述浆料上浆后的纱线的伸长率明显降低,保持在0.8%以下,耐磨性明显增强。纳米银和聚轮烷相互作用,在织物表面形成无数条细小的电路通道,使得织物的抗静电能力强,织物与织物或织物与接触到的物体之间的摩擦力减小,同时提高了织物的光洁度,降低了摩擦系数,磨损力度大幅降低,耐磨性增强,不易起球。
调浆工艺为使用高压桶调浆,加水400份,一次性投料,定黏温度95±1℃,定黏黏度6. 5±0. 5s,漏斗水值 4. 2 s。
浆纱工艺为:
上浆率% 5±0.5
伸长率%<0.8
浆槽温度/℃ 90±1
烘房温度/℃ T1、T295
T3、T490
退绕张力/N 350±50
湿区张力/%浆槽内-0.5
出浆槽1.5
干区张力1700±100
卷绕张力/N 大直径
2500±100
小直径
2400±100
托纱张力/N 2400±100
压浆辊压力/Kn 0速6
40m/min
18~20
上浆率/% 7.5
回潮率/% 8.5
增强率/% 30.5
减伸率/% 7
本发明的操作步骤中的常规操作为本领域技术人员所熟知,在此不进行赘述。
以上所述的实施例对本发明的技术方案进行了详细说明,应理解的是以上所述仅为本发明的具体实施例,并不用于限制本发明,凡在本发明的原则范围内所做的任何修改、补充或类似方式替代等,均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (5)

1.一种透气耐磨羊毛衫,其特征在于由混纺纱外包维纶纱线纺织而成;
其中,混纺纱中羊绒占65~75%,棉占10~25%,回潮控制在19~21%,含油率在1~1.5%;
维纶纱线中Tenc e l 纤维占90~95%,回潮率控制在9.5~10.5%,含油率0.25~0.35%。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种透气耐磨羊毛衫,其特征在于:所述的羊毛衫的制备方法包括以下步骤:
1)包混:按照上述数据制备得到混纺纱外包维纶纱线,其中,清棉工序遵循“勤抓少抓,以梳代打”的原则,降低各部件打手速度,纺出的纱线要求表面光洁、平滑、毛羽少;
2)整经:采用整经机,在保证经轴表面平整、经轴硬度适中的情况下,整经采用“小张力,中车速”的工艺原则;
3)浆纱:浆纱机进行浆纱,采用“两高一低”浆纱工艺,同时采用“小张力,小伸长”的工艺原则,控制浆纱的总伸长在0.8%以下;
4)织造:采用织布机将浆纱织成胚布,再将胚布制成羊毛衫。
3.根据权利要求2所述的一种透气耐磨羊毛衫,其特征在于:所述的浆料成分及其重量份为30~40份K-5、45~55份低黏氧化淀粉、0.5~1.0份聚轮烷、1~3份纳米银、3~5份羧甲基纤维素和2~4份蜡片。
4.根据权利要求2所述的一种透气耐磨羊毛衫,其特征在于:所述的调浆工艺为使用高压桶调浆,加水400~450份,一次性投料,定黏温度95±1℃,定黏黏度6. 5±0. 5s,漏斗水值 4. 2 s。
5.根据权利要求2所述的一种透气耐磨羊毛衫,其特征在于:所述的浆纱工艺为:
上浆率%5±0.5
伸长率%<0.8
浆槽温度/℃90±1
烘房温度/℃T1、T295
T3、T490
退绕张力/N 350±50
湿区张力/%浆槽内-0.5
出浆槽1.5
干区张力1700±100
卷绕张力/N 大直径
2500±100
小直径
2400±100
托纱张力/N 2400±100
压浆辊压力/Kn 0速6
40m/min
18~20
上浆率/% 7.5
回潮率/% 8.5
增强率/% 30.5
减伸率/% 7。
CN201810137313.XA 2018-02-10 2018-02-10 一种透气耐磨羊毛衫 Pending CN110158226A (zh)

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