A kind of whitening cream and preparation method thereof containing stachydrine fatty acid ion liquid
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic fields, and in particular to a kind of whitening cream containing stachydrine fatty acid ion liquid and
Preparation method.
Background technique
Asia women has whitening persistent pursuit, and people just have the idea of " a white screening three is ugly " since ancient times.
Pursuit of China women to skin-whitening, did not all change for thousands of years." Book of Songs defends wind to an earliest poem of China
Large people " piece describes that the wife village ginger for defending time says her: hand is for example slender, skin such as congealed fat.The Warring States Period Chu Rensong jade describes beauty: writing powder
Then too white, it is too red to apply Zhu Ze, such as emerald green plumage of eyebrow, flesh such as Bai Xue.Since most of Asia women skins are all partially yellow, the black colours of skin,
Whitening also has become pursuing a goal for most of women, and therefore, this research field of whitening also has become numerous cosmetics companies
Research hotspot.
The color of skin depends primarily on 3 factors: melanin, blood and carrotene.It is deposited in the basal layer of epidermis of the mankind
In melanocyte, it is capable of forming melanin.The formation mechanism of general melanin is that l-tyrosine is made in the catalysis of tyrosinase
With passing through complicated oxidation with oxygen radical again after lower hydroxylation, polymerizeing, become DOPA, DOPA quinone, dopachrome, dihydroxy indole
Equal intermediates, are gradually converted into eumelanin.The metabolism of melanin is an extremely complex process, affected by many factors.
Melanin determines melanin quantity as a kind of protein, the translation skill of the transcription of gene.When internal melanin accumulation compared with
When more, colour of skin meeting blackening causes freckle, color spot.Whitening is the generation by inhibiting internal melanin, or is decomposed in skin
Some melanin reaches whitening effect.In cosmetics whitening product be broadly divided by the mechanism of action inhibit tyrosinase activity class,
It absorbs ultraviolet light class, remove radical type.Currently, whitening product research focuses primarily on and inhibits tyrosinase and its relevant enzyme
Activity, and then reach the formation for reducing melanin.
Ellagic acid is a kind of polyphenol compound for being extracted from plants out, is the dimerization derivative of gallic acid, is led to
It is normally present in the plants such as various mushy fruits, nut.Ellagic acid is in cosmetics using with three advantages: first, junket can be inhibited
Propylhomoserin enzymatic activity blocks melanin production, has the effect of Whitening, spot.Second, when the concentration of ellagic acid is 1.0mg/mL and
The Vc reducing power of 0.5mg/mL is suitable, there is certain scavenging effect, maximal clearance point to OH and DPPH free radical
70%, 60% can not reached.This illustrates that ellagic acid can effectively antagonize free radical, reverses aging phenomenon.Third, existing research table
Bright, the ellagic acid in raspberry has preferable bacteriostatic activity, has to bacteriums such as Escherichia coli, salmonella, hay bacilluses
Good inhibiting effect, but it is weaker to the inhibiting effect of mould and yeast.4th, the sun-proof aptitude tests of the ultraviolet light of ellagic acid
When (method for selecting the relationship of erythema occurrence frequency and wavelength), discovery ellagic acid is only second to rutin to the sun-proof ability of ultraviolet light
Compound and ferulic acid, blackening after skin shines can be prevented by adding ellagic acid ingredient in the product.
Stachydrine is the effective component from motherwort, is dissolved in water, ethyl alcohol, diluted acid, to heart, tight dirty, uterus and blood vessel
Etc. a variety of internal organs have a variety of obvious pharmacological activity, can promoting blood circulation for regulating menstruation, reduce blood viscosity, vascular resistence.Since stachydrine has
There is the function of regulating menstruation and activating blood, therefore, for adjusting the colour of skin, skin whitening has preferably booster action.However, stachydrine exists
The research of pharmaceutical field is more, and the correlative study in terms of cosmetic skin care is also relatively fewer.
Fatty acid is a kind of common raw material, including lauric acid, myristic acid, caprylic acid, ten acid etc. in cosmetics, is being made up
There is very important effect in product system.Fatty acid is primarily used to the oiliness raw material of cream kind, while being also that cream kind produces
The emulsifier of product.It is mostly not soluble in water, but other solvents such as can be dissolved in ether, chloroform.
In conclusion for people skin oxidative, pigment is more the problems such as cause, it is typically more complicated, find out one kind
It comprehensive can be suitable for the obscure skin care item of the colour of skin caused by many reasons to be of great significance.Stachydrine is cooperateed with ellagic acid
Effect can increase whitening function, and have water solubility, and fatty acid can increase the oil-soluble of cosmetics, therefore, in fatty acid
Addition stachydrine, ellagic acid are expected to solve to realize above-mentioned purpose.However, there has been no relevant reports in the prior art.
Summary of the invention
The first technical problem to be solved by the present invention is: providing a kind of containing with good Whitening, spot effect
The whitening cream of stachydrine fatty acid ion liquid.
Second technical problem to be solved by this invention is: providing the whitening face of above-mentioned stachydrine fatty acid ion liquid
The preparation method of frost.
In order to solve above-mentioned first technical problem, the technical solution adopted by the present invention are as follows: one kind contains stachydrine fat
The raw material for preparing of the whitening cream of acid ion liquid, the face cream includes following components: functional component, solvent, thickener, moisturizing
Agent, skin conditioning agent, pH adjusting agent and emulsifier, wherein the functional component includes stachydrine fatty acid ion liquid and tan
Acid is spent, the fatty acid includes at least one of tetradecylic acid, lauric acid/dodecanoic acid, ten acid or eight acid.
Further, the solvent includes deionized water.
Further, the thickener includes Sepigel 305 (containing polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin and laurel
Alcohol polyethers -7).
Further, the moisturizer includes A631 (glycerol caprylate, decoyl hydroximic acid, 1,2- pentanediol), 1,3- fourth
At least one of two pure and mild glycerol.
Further, the skin conditioning agent includes vitamin E (Vitamin E, VE), tree peony (PAEONIA
SUFFRUTICOSA) root extract, Chinese herbaceous peony (PAEONIA ALBIFLORA) root extract and ceramide -1 (CERAMIDE-1)
At least one of.
Further, the emulsifier includes polyglutamic acid sodium.
Further, the pH adjusting agent includes triethanolamine (TEA).
Further, the raw material for preparing further includes emollient, and the emollient includes cyclomethicone, poly- two
At least one of methylsiloxane, ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, saualane and shea butter.
Further, the raw material for preparing further includes preservative, and the preservative includes methylparaben propylben
At least one of with compound preservative euxyl K220.
Further, the raw material for preparing further includes colorant, and the colorant includes lemon yellow 0.1% and famille rose
0.1%.
Further, it is described prepare raw material by functional component, solvent, thickener, moisturizer, emollient, skin conditioning agent,
Colorant, emulsifier and pH adjusting agent composition, the weight accounting of the functional component are 0.2~2.0%;The weight of thickener accounts for
Than being 1.3%~3%;The weight accounting of the moisturizer is 5~8.7%;The weight accounting of skin conditioning agent be 2.2%~
3.4%;The weight accounting of emulsifier is 0.03%~0.07%;The weight accounting of pH regulator is 0.03%~0.7%;Institute
The weight accounting for stating emollient is 8.3~13.3%;The weight accounting of the colorant is 0.2~0.26%;The solvent is
Surplus.
Preferably, the ellagic acid is 0.2~1.3% in the weight accounting prepared in raw material.
The beneficial effects of the present invention are: the present invention program provides a kind of added with the wood as made from plant extracts
The face cream formula and preparation method of alkali fatty acid (tetradecylic acid, lauric acid/dodecanoic acid, ten acid or eight acid) ionic liquid and ellagic acid, Ke Yiyou
It is water-soluble in face cream formula in effect solution technical background to be difficult to equilibrium problem with oil-soluble.Fatty acid containing stachydrine (tetradecylic acid, ten
Diacid, ten acid or eight acid) ionic liquid, not only ingredient is scientific and reasonable, but also safety can operate.Stachydrine is from natural material
Motherwort is extracted, and has the effects that anti-oxidant, anti-aging, has good water solubility, is facilitated skin and is made to the locking of moisture
With;Fatty acid (tetradecylic acid, lauric acid/dodecanoic acid, ten acid or eight acid) can prevent as caused by skin dehydration dry, and reaching both can be to
Skin keeps the skin wet, and can form oil film in skin surface, prevents moisture excessive evaporation, also will not be excessively greasy, while from
The thermal stability of sub- liquid is good, it is ensured that the storage time of product.Furthermore to reach Whitening, spot effect, it need to be from inhibition junket ammonia
Sour enzymatic synthesis absorbs ultraviolet light and/or removes free radical etc. and takes up, and ellagic acid have to tyrosinase it is good
Inhibiting effect, and its it is sun-proof to ultraviolet light have certain effect, OH and DPPH free radical maximal clearance can be reached respectively
To 70% and 60%.
The invention also includes the preparation methods of the above-mentioned whitening cream containing stachydrine fatty acid ion liquid, by the system
Standby raw material is divided into A, B, C and D phase, and as follows prepared by step: S1, carry out disinfection to the first emulsion pot and the second emulsion pot place
After reason, A phase raw material is added in the first emulsion pot, is heated to 75~90 DEG C, stirs evenly;
S2, it B phase raw material is added in the second emulsion pot is uniformly dispersed, be warming up to 85~95 DEG C, middling speed homogeneous 3-5min
Afterwards, 20~40min of insulated and stirred;
S3, A phase raw material is added in B phase raw material, stirs while adding simultaneously homogeneous 3-8min;
S4,55~65 DEG C are cooled to, C phase raw material is added, stirs evenly;
S5,35~45 DEG C are cooled to, D phase raw material is added, stopped stirring after mixing evenly, cool down up to the whitening face
Frost;
Wherein, A phase raw material is oiliness material, and B phase raw material is aqueous materials, and C phase raw material is pH adjusting agent, and D phase raw material is
Functional component.
Preferably, it is described prepare raw material by functional component, solvent, thickener, moisturizer, emollient, skin conditioning agent,
Toner, preservative, emulsifier and pH adjusting agent composition, the solvent are deionized water;The emulsifier includes polyglutamic acid sodium;
The functional component includes stachydrine fatty acid ion liquid and ellagic acid, the skin conditioning agent include stachydrine fatty acid from
Sub- liquid, vitamin E (Vitamin E, VE), tree peony (PAEONIA SUFFRUTICOSA) root extract, Chinese herbaceous peony (PAEONIA
ALBIFLORA) root extract and Cer EOS (CERAMIDE 1);The emollient includes cyclomethicone, gathers
Dimethyl siloxane, ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, saualane and shea butter;The moisturizer includes
A631 (glycerol caprylate, decoyl hydroximic acid, 1,2- pentanediol), 1,3-BDO and glycerol;The pH adjusting agent includes TEA;
The preservative includes compound preservative euxyl K220;The thickener includes 305 (polyacrylamide, the different alkanes of C13-14
Hydrocarbon, laureth -7);The colorant includes lemon yellow 0.1%, famille rose 0.1%;
The A phase raw material includes Sepigel 305, polyglutamic acid sodium, octyl polymethyl siloxane, saualane, poly- diformazan
Radical siloxane, cyclomethicone, ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, vitamin E and shea butter;
The B phase raw material includes deionized water, glycerol, 1,3-BDO and compound preservative euxyl K220;The C phase raw material includes
TEA;The D phase raw material includes A631 (glycerol caprylate, decoyl hydroximic acid, 1,2- pentanediol), tree peony (PAEONIA
SUFFRUTICOSA) root extract, Chinese herbaceous peony (PAEONIA ALBIFLORA) root extract, Cer EOS (CERAMIDE 1),
Stachydrine fatty acid (tetradecylic acid, lauric acid/dodecanoic acid, ten acid or eight acid) ionic liquid, ellagic acid, lemon yellow 0.1%, famille rose
0.1%.
The beneficial effects of the present invention are: all contact cosmetics raw and auxiliary materials, the equipment of semi-finished product, use during the preparation process
Tool, pipeline are with the production of nontoxic, harmless, anti-anticorrosion material, and inner wall smooth is without falling off;Production equipment carries out periodic maintenance, protects
It supports and cleaning, production equipment will not introduce security risks substance.Each ingredient is dexterously classified, the raw material of the same category
Ingredient adds at different temperatures, adds each raw material component by the sequence and temperature of the present invention program, can not only utmostly protect
There is its active constituent, while the raw material being also more conducive in same phase preferably plays synergistic effect between each other.
Specific embodiment
To explain the technical content, the achieved purpose and the effect of the present invention in detail, it is explained below in conjunction with embodiment.
The embodiment of the present invention are as follows: a kind of whitening cream containing stachydrine fatty acid ion liquid, it is former by following preparation
Material is made: the solvent is deionized water;The emulsifier includes polyglutamic acid sodium;The skin conditioning agent includes stachydrine rouge
Fat acid (tetradecylic acid) ionic liquid, vitamin E (Vitamin E, VE), tree peony (PAEONIA SUFFRUTICOSA) root extract
Object, Chinese herbaceous peony (PAEONIA ALBIFLORA) root extract, Cer EOS (CERAMIDE 1), ellagic acid;The emollient packet
Include cyclomethicone, octyl dimethyl silicone polymer, ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, spiny dogfish
Alkane, shea butter;The moisturizer include A631 (glycerol caprylate, decoyl hydroximic acid, 1,2- pentanediol), 1,3-BDO,
Glycerol;The pH adjusting agent includes TEA;The preservative includes compound preservative euxyl K220;The thickener includes
Sepigel 305 (polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth -7);The colorant includes lemon yellow
0.1%, famille rose 0.1%.
Raw material will be prepared and distinguish A, B, C and D phase according to the following table 1:
The separate classification chart of 1 raw material of table
The preparation method of above-mentioned whitening cream, specifically includes the following steps:
Step 1): with pure hot water washing and sterilizing emulsion pot;
Step 2): A phase raw material is added in emulsion pot, is heated to 85 DEG C, is stirred evenly;
Step 3): preparing another emulsion pot, and B phase raw material is added in emulsion pot and is uniformly dispersed, is stirred after being warming up to 90 DEG C
Mix heat preservation 30 minutes;
Step 4): being slowly added into B phase for A phase, stir while adding, and homogeneous 5 minutes;
Step 5): being cooled to 60 DEG C, and C phase raw material is added, stirs evenly.
Step 6): 40 DEG C are cooled to hereinafter, addition D phase raw material, stirs evenly, take the dish out of the pot after the assay was approved.
Step 7): sealing storage vat after discharging, and moves between standing for use.
Step 8): semi-finished product dispense after quality inspection is qualified;
Step 9): packaging coding obtains finished product, is put in storage.
Wherein, the detection in step 8) is carried out referring to " cosmetics safety technology and regulation " 2015 editions requirements, physics, micro- life
Object and heavy metal analysis result are successively as shown in the following table 2,3 and 4:
2 whitening cream physical property testing result table of the embodiment of the present invention of table
The whitening cream microorganism detection result table of the present invention of table 3
Inspection project |
Inspection result |
Limit value |
Individual event determines |
Total plate count (CFU/g) |
<10 |
≤1000 |
Meet |
Yeast and mold (CFU/g) |
<10 |
≤100 |
Meet |
Heat-resisting coliform (/g) |
It is not detected |
It must not detect |
Meet |
Pseudomonas aeruginosa (/g) |
It is not detected |
It must not detect |
Meet |
Staphylococcus aureus (/g) |
It is not detected |
It must not detect |
Meet |
The whitening cream heavy metal analysis result table of the present invention of table 4
From upper table 2,3 and 4 as can be seen that the safety of the face cream of the present invention program complies fully with relevant laws and regulations requirement.
Whitening cream made from aforesaid operations is taken to carry out skin effect test:
1, moistening effect is tested:
Moisture content with capacitance method measurement human skin keratinocyte's layer is the difference in dielectric constant based on water He other substances
Significantly, according to the difference of keratoderma moisture content, the capacitance of the skin measured is different, and parameter can represent moisture of skin
Content.25 35-45 years old triers are randomly selected, are divided into 5 groups, every group 5.5 groups of triers use in the present invention respectively
The whitening cream of the liquid of fatty acid ion containing stachydrine continues 30 days respectively using once sooner or later daily.
Moisture content of skin, assessment were detected with moisture content of skin tester Corneometer CM825 at the 0th day and the 30th day
Use the water content situation of skin before and after whitening cream.Test result is as follows for moisture-keeping efficacy shown in table 5:
5 trier's skin average moisture content situation of change statistical form of table
The whitening cream of the liquid of fatty acid ion containing stachydrine of the invention is used it can be seen from the experimental result in table 5
After 30 days, skin moisture content can be improved, highest moisture content growth rate reaches 32.37%, illustrates to use whitening of the invention
Face cream has good moisture-keeping efficacy.
2, whitening effect is tested:
The variation of skin color can be measured using skin complexion measuring instrument.The quantization skin generallyd use at present
The measurement method of color be by International Commission on Illumination (International Commission on illumination,
CIE colorimeter system as defined in) (Lab colorimeter system) measures the variation of skin color, and the method quantized result is more accurate, can reflect
The variation of skin color Spatial Multi-Dimensional keeps the quantization of the colour of skin more reliable.Test index is dermal melanin content MI value (measurement number
Be worth higher, illustrate that melanin content is higher in skin), (it is white balance, value that L value, which characterizes L*, for skin whiteness brightness L value and ITA °
Bigger, color is more biased to white;ITA ° of value is skin subjects type angle, and ITA ° of value is bigger, and skin is brighter).Thus can pass through
Keratoderma melanin content, skin coloration are measured to judge the whitening effect of cosmetics.
△ MI=Tn-T0;Tn is that tested region changes over time numerical value in formula;T0 is tested region initial value.
△ L*=Tn-T0;Tn is that tested region changes over time numerical value in formula;T0 is tested region initial value.
△ ITA °=Tn-T0;Tn is that tested region changes over time numerical value in formula;T0 is tested region initial value.
Instrument model used in test process is as follows:
Multi-functional skin test macro (MPA580, German CK);
Skin chromatism test probe and (CL400, German CK);
Skin red and black pigment tester and test probe (Mexameter MX18, German CK).
Specific test process are as follows: adult 25 of screening blee more dimness are randomly divided into 5 groups, every group of 5 conducts
Trier carries out melanin to its skin of face before trying out sample and chromatism data collection analysis is tested, and data are as skin sheet
Floors.Trier respectively uses a sample sooner or later, is used continuously 4 weeks.Data are carried out when the 1st week, the 2nd week, the 4th week to adopt
Collection.Subject is evaluated and tested using the variation of skin whiteness (brightness) and dermal melanin content before and after cosmetics, so that it is determined that makeup
The whitening effect of product.
Laboratory sample: the whitening cream of the liquid of fatty acid ion containing stachydrine prepared in the present invention.
Melanin MI value, skin brightness L* value and ITA ° of value experimental result are successively as shown in the following table 6,7 and 8:
Dermal melanin MI Data-Statistics table before and after 6 product use of table
As can be seen from Table 6, after using whitening cream of the invention, dermal melanin MI value is reduced, and shows the present invention
The whitening cream of scheme has the effect of reducing dermal melanin.
Skin brightness L* Data-Statistics result table before and after 7 product use of table
As can be seen from Table 7, within 4 weeks test periods, after subject uses whitening cream of the invention, skin brightness
L* value increases, and shows that the whitening cream of the present invention program has the effect of improving skin whiteness.
Skin ITA ° of Data-Statistics result table of brightness before and after 8 product use of table
As can be seen from Table 8, within 4 weeks test periods, after subject uses whitening cream of the invention, skin brightness
ITA ° of value increases, and further demonstrates that whitening cream of the invention has the effect of improving skin brightness.
The stachydrine fatty acid ion liquid of the present invention program the preparation method is as follows:
S1,10mmol fatty acid is weighed, it is (safe and non-toxic using deionized water as solvent that 20ml deionized water is added
And cheap and easy to get), it is passed through nitrogen and carries out reaction whole process all under nitrogen atmosphere, the reaction for filling fatty aqueous acid is held
Device is placed in room temperature water-bath (15~30 DEG C), keeps the temperature at 25 DEG C or so, and reaction vessel is carried out shading treatment, is guaranteed anti-
It should be carried out under the conditions of being protected from light.
S2, neutralization reaction: weighing 10mmol stachydrine, and the molar ratio of fatty acid and stachydrine is 1:1, it is a small amount of repeatedly quickly
Being added in reaction vessel (is usually advisable with adding in 3~5 2min, in the present embodiment, is added to matrine molten points for 4 times
In liquid), N is kept in reaction process2Temperature in atmosphere and control adding procedure is 0~5 DEG C (being controlled by ice salt bath), addition
After, remove ice salt bath.After reaction 12h in the case where room temperature (20 DEG C) is protected from light inert conditions to obtain the final product.
The above description is only an embodiment of the present invention, is not intended to limit the scope of the invention, all to utilize this hair
Equivalents made by bright description are applied directly or indirectly in relevant technical field, are similarly included in this hair
In bright scope of patent protection.