CN109620770A - A kind of whitening highlights composition and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

A kind of whitening highlights composition and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN109620770A
CN109620770A CN201811544220.5A CN201811544220A CN109620770A CN 109620770 A CN109620770 A CN 109620770A CN 201811544220 A CN201811544220 A CN 201811544220A CN 109620770 A CN109620770 A CN 109620770A
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extract
whitening
skin
composition
arbutin
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张娟
陈然
彭春燕
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Opal Cosmetics Huizhou Co Ltd
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Opal Cosmetics Huizhou Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

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Abstract

The present invention relates to daily chemicals field, discloses a kind of whitening and highlight composition, including following mass percent component: niacinamide 0.5-3%;Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.2-3%;Grape fruit peel oil 0.1-5%;Arbutin 0.5-2%;Undecylenoyl phenylalanine 0.1-2%;Close Luo Mu extract 1-5%;Hydrolytic collagen 0.1-2%;Monkey-bread tree extract 0.2-5%;Xylitol-based glucoside 0.1-5%;Pomegranate berry extract 1-5%;Auxiliary material 5-30%.The invention also discloses preparation method, composition of the invention is safe and effective, can enhance skin barrier function, enhancing skin consolidation sophistication, brightness and whiteness.

Description

A kind of whitening highlights composition and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to daily chemicals fields, and in particular to a kind of whitening highlights composition and preparation method thereof.
Background technique
With the raising of modern life level, people increasingly focus on external image, and the women in east especially payes attention to skin The pale beauty of skin, therefore the cosmetics of whitening class occupy very big ratio on the market in recent years.
The color of skin synthesizes by melanocyte, the quantity of melanin, type and around keratinocyte point The mode of cloth determines.Melanin is by a series of oxidation reaction come when skin exposes under ultraviolet light, in melanocyte In the melanosome of cell, tyrosine generates melanin by various oxydasis, is divided into the eumelanin in black and takes on a red color Pheomelanin.Melanocyte tissue by melanin transfer into Epidermal basal layer cells, with the metabolism of cell by band Into cuticula, it is accumulated in the epidermis of skin, is finally fallen off with keratinocyte.The substance for influencing the forming process of melanin has Tyrosinase, dopachrome interconvertible enzyme, oxidizing ferment and Endothelin, referred to as " three enzymes, one element ", it is most currently on the market Activity design of the whitening class cosmetics around inhibition " three enzymes, one element ".
Kojic acid and its derivative prevent copper ion to the activation of tyrosinase, by complexing Cu 2+ to inhibit black The synthesis of pigment, but its toxicity is controversial at present.Vitamin C has reduction, rises to melanin intermediates and goes back original work With can hinder from tyrosine/oxidative chain reactions of the dopachrome interconvertible enzyme into melanin on each point, but ascorbic stabilization Property it is poor, be easy loss of activity and product to be made to change colour, and it water-soluble more difficult is absorbed by the skin.
Currently, there are many product in beauty, such as Chinese patent 99124005.7 discloses a kind of skin-whitening combination Object is combined by tyrosinase inhibitor, sun-screening agent, endothelin antagonist, anti-inflammatory agent, cutin cracking-off agent and antioxidant, to reach To the effect of whitening;A kind of cosmetic skin lightening composition is disclosed in international monopoly WO2006/117055, it is sub- by conjugation The collocation of oleic acid and niacinamide achievees the effect that collaboration highlights.
Nowadays, single to be no longer satisfied people to effective bright skin of promotion whitening comprehensively from reduction dermal melanin content The demand of color, skin become clear it is pale, except through reduce dermal melanin outside, also need promoted skin compact plumpness and bullet Property, thus increase the light quantity of skin surface reflection, the brightness of Lai Tigao skin and pale.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of whitenings to highlight cosmetic composition, and composition passes through the organic knot of each component It closes, it is synergistic, by the osmotic absorption to effective active matter, effectively inhibits tyrosinase activity, transfer melanin, increases Add the turgor degree of packing, reduce free radical generation and enhancing skin barrier function, composition is safe and effective, can enhance skin Barrier function, enhancing skin consolidation sophistication, brightness and whiteness.
Technical scheme is as follows:
A kind of whitening highlights composition, including following mass percent component:
Niacinamide 0.5-3%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.2-3%
Grape fruit peel oil 0.1-5%
Arbutin 0.5-2%
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine 0.1-2%
Close Luo Mu extract 1-5%
Hydrolytic collagen 0.1-2%
Monkey-bread tree extract 0.2-5%
Xylitol-based glucoside 0.1-5%
Pomegranate berry extract 1-5%
Auxiliary material 5-30%.
Further, a kind of whitening highlights composition, including following mass percent component:
Niacinamide 1-3%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.5-2.8%
Grape fruit peel oil 0.1-3%
Arbutin 1-2%
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine 0.2-2%
Close Luo Mu extract 2-5%
Hydrolytic collagen 0.2-1.5%
Monkey-bread tree extract 0.2-5%
Xylitol-based glucoside 0.1-5%
Pomegranate berry extract 2-4%
Auxiliary material 8-30%.
Further, a kind of whitening highlights composition, including following mass percent component:
Niacinamide 1.5-2.5%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.6-2.5%
Grape fruit peel oil 0.5-2.5%
Arbutin 1-1.5%
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine 0.5-1.8%
Close Luo Mu extract 2.5-4%
Hydrolytic collagen 0.5-1.5%
Monkey-bread tree extract 0.5-3%
Xylitol-based glucoside 0.5-3%
Pomegranate berry extract 2-3.5%
Auxiliary material 8-25%.
Further, niacinamide purity is greater than 99%, and Nicotinic Acid Content is less than 200ppm.
Further, the average molecular weight of hydrolytic collagen is 1000-1500Da.
Further, arbutin is alpha-arbutin, and alpha-arbutin purity is greater than 99%
Further, grape fruit peel oil is supercritical carbon dioxide method for extracting preparation.
Further, auxiliary material include sucrose stearate, lecithin, sucrose palmitate, Surfhope SE Cosme C 1216, propylene glycol, Butanediol, glycerol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, octyl dodecanol, isononyl isononanoate, at least two in isobutyl palmitate Kind.Preferably sucrose palmitate, octyl dodecanol, glycerol, butanediol, mass ratio are sucrose palmitate: octyl 12 Alcohol: glycerol: butanediol=9:5:3:3.
A kind of whitening highlights the preparation method of composition, includes the following steps:
A. pure water is added after taking partial supplementary material to mix, heating stirring keeps the temperature 15-20 minutes to 70-80 DEG C, obtains prepared phase A.
B. undecylenoyl phenylalanine is mixed with another part auxiliary material, is heated to 70-80 DEG C, obtain prepared phase B.
C. will preparation phase A and preparation phase B mix, homogeneous 10-20 minute, and ultrasonic treatment 5 ~ 10 minutes, cool to 50-60 DEG C, obtain prepared phase C;
D. niacinamide, arbutin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, remainder auxiliary material are dissolved in pure water respectively, are then mixed Conjunction stirs evenly, and obtains prepared phase D;
E. under stirring, preparation phase D is added in prepared phase C, and grape fruit peel oil is added, mixing speed 200- 300r/min is stirred 15-20 minute, homogeneous 5-10 minutes, homogeneous speed 2800-3000r/min, is cooled down after homogeneous, drop Temperature is to 35-45 DEG C, filtering;
F. close Luo Mu extract, hydrolytic collagen, monkey-bread tree extract, Xylitol-based glucoside, pomegranate berry extract are distinguished Soluble in water, mixed dissolution is uniform, and product obtained in step e is added, and water is added and obtains finished product.
Whitening highlights application of the composition in cosmetics, and State of cosmetics can be white shape, emulsus, watery, Gel miles of shape In any one.
The principle of the present invention and advantage are as follows:
1, cutaneous pigmentation
The color of human skin is mainly influenced by pigmentation process, and process includes: the dress of 1. melanosome in melanocyte Match and melanin genesis;2. melanosome from around core to dendron far-end transfer;3. melanosome is transferred to neighbouring cutin and is formed carefully Born of the same parents;4. melanosome is redistributed and is degraded in keratinocyte.The color of skin, which is removed, depends on melanocyte generation Except the type and quantity of melanocyte, the even more important capacity that also transported, redistributed and degraded by melanosome.
The rate of melanin genesis is directly related with the amount of tyrosinase and activity, and the synthesis of melanin is mainly by melanocyte Interior tyrosinase cdna family protein: tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1(TRP1) and TRP2 regulation;It is black The melanosome of plain intracellular mature will be transferred to the cutin shape of surrounding along cells Dendritic direction of extension to dendron far-end transfer It in cell, recent studies have shown that, α-MSH and ultraviolet light can accelerate the transfer process of melanosome.Melanosome once transmits It is formed into the cell into cutin, will selectively be shifted to the epidermis side of keratinocyte, be conducive to cutin shape in this way It is absorbed at cell and penetrates ultraviolet light in skin, the nucleus under it is protected not mutate damage.There is studies have shown that cutin shape It is closely related at the characteristic distributions of intracellular melanosome and the color of skin.
The calmness of skin pigment is in a variety of outside environmental elements and physiologic factor such as ultraviolet radiation, inflammatory reaction, skin Under the influence of aging, epidermal cell can generate autocrine and paracrine hormone or cell factor, be partially formed autocrine, other point It secretes network and plays the role of important adjusting cutaneous pigmentation.
2, the mechanism of whitening
It based on skin texture and melanin production approach, can start in terms of following: inhibit the increment of melanocyte, inhibit Tyrosinase, the activity of DOPA interconvertible enzyme and oxidizing ferment, each intermediate of reduction melanin forming process or obstruction in combination are black The formation of pigment blocks dihydroxy indole to be polymerized to melanin, inhibit delivery melanin transfer to keratinocyte, accelerator angle The melanin that matter is formed in cell to cuticula transfer, cutin-softening layer and accelerate the falling off of cuticula, reduces ultraviolet light, oxygen oneself The negative effect that melanin is formed by extrinsic factors such as bases.
In addition to melanin to skin it is pale impact other than, skin caused by the protein glycation, aging in skin hair Huang, hyaluronic acid caused by light aging and elastin laminin denaturation degradation, influence skin elasticity and gloss, the generation of inflammation causes Skin barrier function is impaired, leads to skin water shortage and tarnishes, also results in the obscure of the colour of skin.
3, the basis for selecting and advantage of composition
Based on above-mentioned whitening approach, component of the invention, which is chosen, all has its targeting and functionality, mutually promotes, and collaboration increases Effect.
Niacinamide used by the composition is high-purity raw, and effectively reduce Nicotinic Acid Content stimulates to skin bring Property, niacinamide is essential Coenzyme I-NAD(nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide during ATP is generated) and codehydrogenase Ⅱ- NADP(nicotinamide-adenine dinucleotide phosphate) component part, promote DNA repair and maintain the dynamic equilibrium of skin dynamic, energy Melanin is enough effectively inhibited to horn cell from transmission, the proliferation of the melanocyte after UVA irradiates, Neng Gouyou can be inhibited Intervene UVA blackening effect while not influencing the cell cycle of melanocyte in effect ground.
The magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is stable vitamin C precursor, can effectively remove induced by ultraviolet irradiation oneself By base, the generation of inflammation is reduced, damage of the ultraviolet light to skin, and the synthesis that collagen can be promoted white is reduced, passes through complexing Copper ion, thus influence the activity of tyrosinase and reduce the synthesis step of DOPA quinone to interfere the synthesis of melanin, thus Play whitening function to effective and safe.
The grape fruit peel oil has extensive bioactivity, flavonoids rich in, in humans and animals body With various pharmacological actions, because the hydrogen atom on its phenolic hydroxyl group can generate flavones free radical in conjunction with peroxy radical, into And with other radical reactions, to terminate free chain reaction, flavonoids have excellent removing free radical, antiallergy, The abilities such as antiviral, anti-inflammatory, reduction capillary fragility can purify dark sore and substantial, consolidation skin etc. and other effects, energy with deep layer Enhance cells against free radicals ability, to improve skin barrier function.Pass through supercritical carbon dioxide extracting grape fruit pericarp Oil can effectively improve the content of flavonoids in grape fruit peel oil.
Used arbutin is alpha-arbutin, and content is greater than 99%, and alpha-arbutin is able to suppress tyrosinase activity, Also have the effect of absorbing ultraviolet light.Since arbutin is similar with tyrosinase in structure, in tyrosine synthesizing black Element process in can with tyrosine competitive binding tyrosinase, to reduce the effect of B16 cell.
The undecylenoyl phenylalanine, structure is similar to the structure of melanocyte (α-MSH) is promoted, and can control black Plain cytositimulation element is in conjunction with rush melanocyte, and then the process for blocking melanin to be formed.
Close Luo Muye/the stem extraction, active ingredient quinine acid derivative (3,4,5- tri--oxygen-gallic acid Quininic acid), there is good antioxidant activity, lipid oxidation in skin can be prevented, protect cell membrane and extracellular lipid base The damage of matter improves the flexibility of cell membrane, protective enzyme and protein active, stablizes the water balance system of skin, strengthens skin Barrier function improves skin texture.
The hydrolytic collagen, average molecular weight 1000Da can effectively penetrate into epidermis deep layer, promote human body skin The generation of skin hyaluronic acid, and promote skin collagen synthesis, increase skin play support construction Sodium Hyaluronate and Collagen plays synergy with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate to effectively improve the elasticity and the degree of packing of skin Effect;
The monkey-bread tree extract, richness ascorbic acid rich in, calcium, phosphorus, potassium, organic and glucuronic acid, can With effectively skin permeation, reach smooth skin, instantaneous crease-resistant effect can be played.
The Xylitol-based glucoside has hygroscopic effect, can instantaneously improve the water content of skin, adjust skin Aquation, so as to improve the glossiness of skin, hyaluronic acid in people's Keratinocyte is can be enhanced in Xylitol-based glucoside With the synthesis of aquaporin 3, to enhance the water barrier function of skin.
The pomegranate berry extract is rich in tannin, polyphenol, organic acid, polysaccharide, minerals, amino acid, protein, tan Spend acid and punicic acid isoreactivity object, have the effect of it is anti-oxidant, acceleration horn cell fall off, consolidation skin.
The niacinamide, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, grape fruit peel oil, arbutin, endecatylene acyl phenylalanine, Close Luo Mu extract, hydrolytic collagen, monkey-bread tree extract, Xylitol-based glucoside, pomegranate berry extract, respectively play not With mechanism, be complementary to one another and synergy.
Its action pathway is as follows:
The present invention designs triple whitening theories, intervenes melanin production and route of metastasis: influencing melanocyte proliferation, inhibits junket The melanin that the effect and transfer of propylhomoserin enzymatic activity and rush melanocyte generate, promotes cuticula to peel off;Remove free radical, to anti-inflammatory Disease reaction: the free radical of induced by ultraviolet irradiation is removed;Enhance skin barrier function: promoting the synthesis of aquaporin 3, promotes skin The synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid, maintenance moisture of skin balance.
The present invention inhibits α-rush melanocyte expression using undecylenoyl phenylalanine;Utilize ascorbic acid phosphoric acid esters enzyme network Copper ion is closed, the activity of tyrosinase is influenced;The competition that tyrosinase is participated in using arbutin, generates colourless substance;It utilizes Niacinamide influences the increment of melanocyte, and the melanin generated is inhibited to shift to horn cell;It is extracted using pomegranate fruit Object promotes the removing of cutin cells of superficial layer and removal, promotes epidermal cell to update, make skin smooth brilliant white;
The present invention, which uses, excellent removing free radical, antiallergy, the grape fruit peel oil of anti-inflammatory effect and Mi Luo wood extract, The free radical for effectively removing induced by ultraviolet irradiation reduces inflammation and generates, reduces DNA and Protein Damage, maintain the structure of skin Function-stable.Therefore tyrosinase with react for tyrosine is also required to the participation of free radical, and removing free radical is also beneficial to press down The activity of tyrosinase processed.
The present invention uses Xylitol-based glucoside, enhances hyaluronic acid and aquaporin 3 in people's Keratinocyte Synthesis, the instantaneous water content for improving skin, adjusts the aquation of skin;Human skin hyaluronic acid is promoted using hydrolytic collagen Generation and promote skin collagen synthesis, increase the support construction of cell;Using the instantaneous crease-resistant effect of monkey-bread tree. By enhancing the expression of the hydrauture and cell support construction of skin, enhance skin barrier function;And space between cells is reduced, skin Flat-satin reduces the area of scattering light, thus cutaneous pale and glossiness.
Since arbutin, ascorbic acid phosphoric acid esters enzymatic activity are high, it is easy to happen the unstability phenomenons such as discoloration, endecatylene The poorly water-soluble of acylphenylalanines is easy to be precipitated, and octyl dodecanol can enhance its solubility property, therefore the present invention is using package Technology gets up active constituent liposome, due to having similar structure with skin, can make to encapsulate with cutin-softening Active material penetrate to the skin layer by layer epidermis, reach site of action, enhance the utilization rate of active matter.
Specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, present invention is further described in detail.
One, the component ratio and preparation method of embodiment and comparative example
1, the component ratio of embodiment and comparative example:
2, preparation method:
2.1 embodiments 1 the preparation method is as follows:
(1) sucrose palmitate, glycerol are mixed, pure water is added, heating stirring keeps the temperature 15-20 minutes, obtain to 70-80 DEG C Preparation phase A.
(2) undecylenoyl phenylalanine is mixed with octyl dodecanol, is heated to 70-80 DEG C, obtain prepared phase B.
(3) will preparation phase A and preparation phase B mix, homogeneous 10-20 minute, and ultrasonic treatment 5 ~ 10 minutes, cool to 50-60 DEG C, obtain prepared phase C;
(2) niacinamide, arbutin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, butanediol are dissolved in pure water respectively, are then mixed stirring Uniformly, prepared phase D is obtained;
(3) under stirring, preparation phase D is added in prepared phase C, and grape fruit peel oil is added, mixing speed 200- 300r/min is stirred 20 minutes, homogeneous 5 minutes, homogeneous speed 2800-3000r/min, is cooled down after homogeneous, be cooled to 35- It 45 DEG C, crosses miillpore filter and obtains whitening liposome E, for use.
(4) by close Luo Mu extract, hydrolytic collagen, monkey-bread tree extract, Xylitol-based glucoside, pomegranate berry extract Soluble in water respectively, mixed dissolution is uniform, obtains prepared phase F, for use.
(5) aqueous solution of solubilizer is prepared, and preservative is added, stirs evenly, it is stand-by to obtain G.
At (6) 45 DEG C or less, E, F, G are mixed, stirred evenly, the whitening obtained in embodiment 1 highlights composition.
2.2 comparative examples 1 the preparation method is as follows:
(1) it by grape fruit peel oil, octyl dodecanol, sucrose palmitate, dissolves by heating, is uniformly mixed, is cooled to 60 DEG C or so, prepared phase A is obtained, for use.
(2) glycerol, butanediol, thickener, preservative are mixed, pure water dissolution is added, obtain prepared phase B, for use.
(3) preparation phase A, B is mixed, with homogenizer homogeneous 5min, revolving speed 2800-3000r/min, stirring is cooled to 45 DEG C, C is obtained, for use.
(4) by close Luo Mu extract, hydrolytic collagen, monkey-bread tree extract, Xylitol-based glucoside, pomegranate berry extract Soluble in water respectively, mixed dissolution is uniform, obtains D, for use.
(5) C and D is mixed, obtains 1 composition of comparative example.
2.3 comparative examples 2 the preparation method is as follows:
(1) sucrose palmitate, glycerol are mixed, pure water is added, heating stirring keeps the temperature 15-20 minutes, obtain to 70-80 DEG C Preparation phase A.
(2) undecylenoyl phenylalanine is mixed with octyl dodecanol, is heated to 70-80 DEG C, obtain prepared phase B.
(3) will preparation phase A and preparation phase B mix, homogeneous 10-20 minute, and ultrasonic treatment 5 ~ 10 minutes, cool to 50-60 DEG C, obtain prepared phase C;
(2) niacinamide, arbutin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, butanediol are dissolved in pure water respectively, are then mixed stirring Uniformly, prepared phase D is obtained;
(3) under stirring, preparation phase D being added in prepared phase C, mixing speed 200-300r/min is stirred 20 minutes, Homogeneous 5 minutes, homogeneous speed 2800-3000r/min, cool down after homogeneous, be cooled to 35-45 DEG C, crosses miillpore filter and obtain Whitening liposome E, for use.
(4) aqueous solution of solubilizer is prepared, and preservative is added, stirs evenly, it is stand-by to obtain F.
At (5) 45 DEG C or less, E, F are mixed, stirs evenly, obtains 2 composition of comparative example.
2.4 comparative examples 3 the preparation method is as follows:
(1) emulsifier, glycerol are mixed, pure water is added, heating stirring keeps the temperature 15-20 minutes to 70-80 DEG C, obtains prepared phase A。
(2) undecylenoyl phenylalanine is mixed with octyl dodecanol, is heated to 70-80 DEG C, obtain prepared phase B.
(3) preparation phase A and preparation phase B is mixed, homogeneous 10-20 minutes, cools to 50-60 DEG C, obtains prepared phase C;
(2) niacinamide, arbutin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, butanediol are dissolved in pure water respectively, are then mixed stirring Uniformly, prepared phase D is obtained;
(3) preparation phase D is added in prepared phase C, homogeneous 5 minutes, homogeneous speed 2800-3000r/min obtained E, for use.
(4) aqueous solution of solubilizer is prepared, and preservative is added, stirs evenly, it is stand-by to obtain F.
At (5) 45 DEG C or less, E, F are mixed, stirs evenly, obtains 3 composition of comparative example.
Two, test method
1, test item: dermal melanin content, skin whiteness, skin brightness, moisture content, water loss, glossiness, skin Skin elasticity
2, test equipment: CK MPA580 skinanalysis apparatus, Mexameter dermal melanin and ferroheme test probe, Colormeter skin color test probe, Corneometer moisture measurement are popped one's head in, Tewameter water loss is popped one's head in, Glossymeter glossiness test probe, Cutometer skin elasticity test probe.
3, study subject: qualified volunteer is screened, selects face as test position.According to the Chardon method of dividision into groups, basis ITA ° of skin brightness between II ~ IV grade.Each 20 subjects of embodiment 1, comparative example 1, comparative example 2,3 each group of comparative example.
4, test period: test period is 28 days, is surveyed using instrument within the 14th, 28 day after 1 day and use before using sample Try indices.In test after use, volunteer cannot smear sample on the day of test, need to reuse after the completion of testing Sample.
5, sample uses: subject is any using being free of of providing of efficacy assessment group during this for the elution phase within test preceding 1 week The basic moisture retention water and moisturizer of active matter.Other whitening products cannot be used dduring test.It uses within subject continuous 28 days Sample, every morning, wash one's face before sleeping at night after face smear sample, applying amount is about 0.25g.Test melanin content, white Degree, brightness are that neck is used as own control.
6, it test process: is acquired using preceding data: before test, in the constant temperature that temperature is 24 ± 1 DEG C, humidity is 55 ± 5%RH It sits quietly in humidity room 20 minutes.It is surveyed with Colormeter skin color test probe, Mexameter dermal melanin and ferroheme Probe header, Corneometer moisture measurement probe, Tewameter water loss probe, the test of Glossymeter glossiness are visited Head, Cutometer skin elasticity test probe carry out the acquisition using preceding data in test position.Each survey to each test position Pilot loop test 4 times, it is averaged data before the use as corresponding position.
7, the 7th, 14,28 day data acquire after use, and step is acquired with using preceding data.
Three, test result
1, dermal melanin changes of contents rate:
2, skin whiteness change rate:
3, skin brightness change rate:
4, moisture content change rate:
5, water loss change rate:
6, glossiness change rate:
7, skin elasticity change rate:
From the dermal melanin content of the test of embodiment and comparative example, skin whiteness, skin brightness, moisture content, moisture Loss, glossiness, in skin elasticity test result as can be seen that the whitening of embodiment, which highlights composition tool, is significantly reduced skin Skin melanin content improves whitening skin degree and brightness, and increases skin moisture content, enhances skin barrier function, increases Add skin elasticity, and improves the effect of skin shine.
Although description of this invention combination embodiments above carries out, those skilled in the art Member can carry out many replacements based on the above contents, modifications and variations, be obvious.Therefore, all such substitutions, Improvements and changes are included in the spirit and scope of appended claims.

Claims (11)

1. a kind of whitening highlights composition, which is characterized in that including following mass percent component:
Niacinamide 0.5-3%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.2-3%
Grape fruit peel oil 0.1-5%
Arbutin 0.5-2%
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine 0.1-2%
Close Luo Mu extract 1-5%
Hydrolytic collagen 0.1-2%
Monkey-bread tree extract 0.2-5%
Xylitol-based glucoside 0.1-5%
Pomegranate berry extract 1-5%
Auxiliary material 5-30%.
2. a kind of whitening highlights composition, which is characterized in that including following mass percent component:
Niacinamide 1-3%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.5-2.8%
Grape fruit peel oil 0.1-3%
Arbutin 1-2%
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine 0.2-2%
Close Luo Mu extract 2-5%
Hydrolytic collagen 0.2-1.5%
Monkey-bread tree extract 0.2-5%
Xylitol-based glucoside 0.1-5%
Pomegranate berry extract 2-4%
Auxiliary material 8-30%.
3. a kind of whitening highlights composition, which is characterized in that including following mass percent component:
Niacinamide 1.5-2.5%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.6-2.5%
Grape fruit peel oil 0.5-2.5%
Arbutin 1-1.5%
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine 0.5-1.8%
Close Luo Mu extract 2.5-4%
Hydrolytic collagen 0.5-1.5%
Monkey-bread tree extract 0.5-3%
Xylitol-based glucoside 0.5-3%
Pomegranate berry extract 2-3.5%
Auxiliary material 8-25%.
4. whitening according to claim 1 to 3 highlights composition, which is characterized in that the niacinamide purity Greater than 99%, and Nicotinic Acid Content is less than 200ppm.
5. whitening according to claim 1 to 3 highlights composition, which is characterized in that the hydrolytic collagen Average molecular weight is 1000-1500Da.
6. whitening according to claim 1 to 3 highlights composition, which is characterized in that the arbutin is α- Arbutin, alpha-arbutin purity are greater than 99%.
7. whitening according to claim 1 to 3 highlights composition, which is characterized in that the grape fruit pericarp Oil is supercritical carbon dioxide method for extracting preparation.
8. highlighting composition according to whitening described in claim 1-3 any one, which is characterized in that the auxiliary material includes sucrose Stearic acid, lecithin, sucrose palmitate, Surfhope SE Cosme C 1216, propylene glycol, butanediol, glycerol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, Octyl dodecanol, isononyl isononanoate, at least two in isobutyl palmitate.
9. the preparation method that whitening described in a kind of claim 1-3 any one highlights composition, which is characterized in that including such as Lower step:
A. pure water is added after taking partial supplementary material to mix, heating stirring keeps the temperature 15-20 minutes to 70-80 DEG C, obtains prepared phase A;
B. undecylenoyl phenylalanine is mixed with another part auxiliary material, is heated to 70-80 DEG C, obtain prepared phase B.
10.c. will prepare phase A and preparation phase B mixing, homogeneous 10-20 minute, and ultrasonic treatment 5 ~ 10 minutes, cool to 50-60 DEG C, obtain prepared phase C;
D. niacinamide, arbutin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, remainder auxiliary material are dissolved in pure water respectively, are then mixed Conjunction stirs evenly, and obtains prepared phase D;
E. under stirring, preparation phase D is added in prepared phase C, and grape fruit peel oil is added, mixing speed 200- 300r/min is stirred 15-20 minute, homogeneous 5-10 minutes, homogeneous speed 2800-3000r/min, is cooled down after homogeneous, drop Temperature is to 35-45 DEG C, filtering;
F. close Luo Mu extract, hydrolytic collagen, monkey-bread tree extract, Xylitol-based glucoside, pomegranate berry extract are distinguished Soluble in water, mixed dissolution is uniform, and product obtained in step e is added, and water is added and obtains finished product.
11. whitening described in claim 1-3 any one highlights application of the composition in cosmetics, which is characterized in that institute Stating State of cosmetics can be white shape, emulsus, watery, any one in Gel miles of shape.
CN201811544220.5A 2018-12-17 2018-12-17 A kind of whitening highlights composition and preparation method thereof Pending CN109620770A (en)

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