CN109620746A - A kind of Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract and its application in facial-care composition - Google Patents
A kind of Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract and its application in facial-care composition Download PDFInfo
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
- A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8188—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bonds, and at least one being terminated by a bond to sulfur or by a hertocyclic ring containing sulfur; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9706—Algae
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
Abstract
The preparation method that a kind of Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract is disclosed the present invention relates to cosmetic field and its application in facial-care composition.Preparation method disclosed by the invention can retain the anthocyanidin that Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract contains, polyphenol and a variety of amino acid.Pass through the application of the Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract; to composition system framework rationally build and limitation to raw material key parameter; prevention and improvement skin aging phenomenon and resistance free radical; it is oxidation resistant while can also repair due to time bring face aging problem that layer protecting film is formed in skin surface, and effectively reduces percutaneous water loss rate.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to daily chemicals fields, and in particular to a kind of preparation method of Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract and its protects in face
Manage the application in composition.
Background technique
The requirement with people to life is continuously improved with the continuous development of society, pursuit increasingly pole of the people to beauty
It causes, so cosmetic industry is also constantly developing, skin management is also increasingly focused on.With the continuous growth at age, skin
Problem also increasingly attracts people's attention, and many people go slack time bring skin aging and pine in a variety of methods of searching
Relaxation and wrinkle problem, compact, lifting is crease-resistant, and plentiful equal functional cosmetics and the U.S. project of doctor also gradually come into vogue.
Studies have shown that aging is generally since 25 years old or so, and accelerate with the increase at age.It is related to during aging
To many factors, the most common endogenous Some Circulating Factors related with aging course are free radicals.It is filled in the environment of human survival
Denounce countless free radical, we are not exposed to all the time in the encirclement and attack of free radical.So to reduce freedom
The damage of base from anti-oxidant it is necessary to doing.Aging often brings many skin problems, relaxation, recess or even sagging feelings
Condition starts to protrude, and skin lacks flexibility, and temple start to be recessed, apple flesh start it is sagging, decree line deepen, facial fat by weight
Power reason starts to move down, and with advancing age, gradually appears the symptom of aging.
Roselle is full of nutrition, and function is unique, and calyx is Meat, succulence, VC rich in, protein, a variety of
Amino acid, organic acid, crude protein, crude fat, anthocyanidin and flavonoid class substance.The mine of a large amount of natural pigment and needed by human body
Substance.Anthocyanidin rich in Roselle calyx, the mainly glucoside of delphinidin and Cyanidin, have it is anti-oxidant,
The effect of free radical resisting, anti-aging, and have effects that releive well decompression, moisturizing.It is in food, cosmetics and medicine
Etc. in industries using extremely wide, thus before researching and developing and being known as good application value and development using roselle cyanine
Scape is of great significance for nursing the development of cosmetic art and improving people's lives level.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of extractive technique of Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract and contain Roselle calyx
Facial-care product, extractive technique disclosed by the invention can retain the anthocyanidin that Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract contains, polyphenol
With a variety of amino acid.By the application of the Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract, to rationally building and to original for composition system framework
Expect the limitation of key parameter, prevention and improvement skin aging phenomenon and resist free radical, forms layer protecting film in skin surface
It is oxidation resistant while can also repair due to time bring face aging problem, and effectively reduce percutaneous water loss rate.
Technical scheme is as follows:
A kind of preparation method of Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract, includes the following steps:
A. roselle dried flower calyx, 48-50 DEG C of stabilisation Roselle calyx of microwave, by high energy shear milling at powdered, mistake are taken
Sieve makes it uniformly mix the powder with the Roselle calyx powder for accounting for its quality 20 ~ 30% and be placed in reaction unit；
B. 75-85 DEG C of pure water is used to impregnate 40-60 minutes, stirring is centrifuged after 2-2.5 hours, and centrifugation is completed to filter to another
Reaction unit retains filtrate, removes filter residue；
C. the cellulase, protease, amylase for accounting for its quality 5% are added in the filtrate obtained by b step, carries out 50 DEG C of ultrasounds and mentions
30-40min is taken, carries out high speed centrifugation after the completion of ultrasound；
D. solution is filtered after the centrifugation obtained to step c, filters out filter residue, and filtrate flow to through external circulating device through decoloration device
Circulation decoloration 20-40 minutes；
E. the solution distillation and concentration after decolourizing to Step d gained, distillation time 5-6h, steam are condensed through condensing unit；
F. the resulting concentrate of step e is put into water bath chader, adjusts temperature, extracted 5 hours；Temperature is adjusted in drying box
It is 60 DEG C, supernatant is placed drying box drying 6-8 hours, obtains Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract.
Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract is applied in facial-care composition, obtains a kind of facial-care composition, including such as
Lower mass percent component:
Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract 0.1-3%；
Polyalcohol 2-6%；
Beta glucan 0.2%-5%；
Film forming agent 0.12%-1.8%；
Thicken suspending agent 0.05%-1%；
Silicone oil 0.2%-10%；
Emulsifier 2.5%-4.5%；
Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.02%-0.2%；
Dehydroxanthan 0.1%-1%；
D-pantothenyl aleohol 0.1%-1%；
Caffeine silanol 0.1-5%；
Niacinamide 1%-5%；
Plankton extractions 0.1-3%；
Allantoin 0.05%-0.2%.
Roselle is Malvaceae Hibiscus annual herb plant also known as very popular actor or actress certain herbaceous plants with big flowers, roselle, red sorrel, tonyred, beauty
It receives.Its is full of nutrition, and function is unique, and calyx is Meat, succulence, VC rich in, protein, a variety of amino acid,
Organic acid, crude protein, crude fat, anthocyanidin and flavonoid class substance.The minerals of a large amount of natural pigment and needed by human body.Rose
Anthocyanidin rich in rare nightshade calyx, the mainly glucoside of delphinidin and Cyanidin have anti-oxidant, anti-freedom
The effect of base, anti-aging, and have effects that releive well decompression, moisturizing.
Hyaluronic acid is the bio-molecules being widely present in skin and other tissues, has fabulous moisture-keeping function,
It is known as ideal natural moisturizing factor in the world.It is the best object of the performance of keeping humidity used for cosmetic that finds in current nature
Matter.
Meanwhile hyaluronic acid is also one of the main matrix ingredient of application on human skin epidermis and corium, physiological function is to make
Moisture enters space between cells, and forms protein gel in conjunction with protein, and cell is sticked together, the cell generation brought into normal play
The effect of thanking is played and keeps cell moisture, protects cell not by the infringement of pathogen, accelerates to restore skin histology, improves wound and be cured
The effects of conjunction power of regeneration, reduction scar, strengthen immunity.
Beta glucan is the polysaccharide that immunity is improved in a kind of yeast cell wall, is excellent immunoactivator, Neng Gouti
The immunity of high skin itself has the effect of removing free radical, assists damaged tissues to accelerate to restore to generate cytokine, in sensitive flesh
There is unique bioactivity in terms of skin reparation.Application enhancing skin immunity of β -1, the 3- glucan in cosmetics, can increase
The power of regeneration of damaged skin cell improves the regeneration rate of cuticula, has the characteristic for helping wound to restore.Clinical research
Showing beta glucan also has significant anti-inflammatory, antiallergic activity, and can help to skin resist it is exogenous various mechanical and
Chemical stimulation.Beta glucan increases epidermal growth factor (EGF) on aged skin and wrinkle skin, will promote glue in skin
Former albumen and elastin laminin increase, so as to improve skin appearance and wrinkle reduction.Lang Gehanshi in ultraviolet light Irradiation on Skin
Cell is inhibited, if in the sun, langerhans' cells quantity can greatly reduce for skin exposure for a long time, activity drop
It is low, weaken the defence immunocompetence of skin.And beta glucan is except itself having anti-sunlight function and in addition to can be reduced pain inflammation, it
Langerhans' cells can also be promoted to be proliferated, the immunocompetence of skin can be enhanced.Basis in beta glucan energy activating immune system
Cell --- macrophage, macrophage generates epidermal growth factor (EGF), to promote collagen egg necessary to wound healing
White generation, while angiogenesis factor (AF) can promote neovascularization necessary to wound healing.
There is promotion growth to external epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT), by the pendant carboxylic group in molecular structure
Can also be anti-oxidant, free radical is removed, while compounding also with polyalcohol and have good anti-corrosion synergistic effect.
This substance of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate can function similarly to the effect of adrenal gland sebum hormone, and not any pair
Effect.It can inhibit the inflammatory reaction of skin, improving telangiectasis so that the redness of skin be allowed to be improved has antiallergic
Antiinflammation.
There are three hydroxyls for D-pantothenyl aleohol, and physiological activity is higher, is changed into pantothenic acid in skin panthenol, panthenol exists in the form of pantothenic acid
In in human body living tissue, it is the component of coacetylase key, plays a part of acetylization reaction carrier.Acetate is reacted with coacetylase
The acetate for generating activation is to show the bioactivity of vitamin necessary to lipid and the synthesis of daytime albumen.It can reinforce just
Normal skin hydration function, having improves dry, coarse, furfur, the antipruritic and relevant erythema effect for the treatment of multiple dermatosis.Reinforce
It can promote the normal keratinization of skin after skin barrier function external application, improve the tolerance of skin Surfactant.Mitigate
Discomfort caused by constituent-sensitive is as calcination, shouting pain, itch and tingling etc. in cosmetics.Help to mitigate allergic symptom, help
In wound healing.
Not only (derivative of caffeine and silanol) works caffeine silanol in terms of solving rouge, meanwhile, and in weight
Skin histology is built, real compact skin (derivative of alginic acid and silanol) is increased, and anti-inflammatory aspect works.
Niacinamide can increase glycosyl ceramide and sphingomyelin content significantly, and can enhance ammonia
Acid --- the activity of palmitoyl transferase, colleague can also increase the synthesis of free fatty acid.Niacinamide can pass through stimulation in a word
The overall process of ceramide synthesis and the activity of up-regulation serine transferase improve the barrier of the permeability of skin.
Studies have shown that topical application niacinamide increases cuticula ceramide and dissociates on human volunteer dry skin
The level of fatty acid, while cholesterol levels also tend to increase.The increase of lipid level between corneocyte, especially neural acyl
The increase of amine level can improve the impaired permeable barrier function of epidermis.
Further, polyalcohol include ethylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, 1,3-BDO, in polyglycereol
It is at least one.The skin of human body be it is weakly acidic, skin oil and fat removal causes to have dry skin too much, to destroy sebum film, one
Denier loses sebum film, and skin is highly susceptible to external injury.Feel to also bring along many negative impacts to using.In order to protect
Skin is not dried and mild use feeling, therefore needs that there is the polyalcohol of moisturizing and moisturizing effect to make an addition to facial-care product
In.
Further, thickening suspending agent includes ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/VP copolymer.Thickening suspending agent has increasing
It is thick, it is suspending stabilized and other effects, the viscosity of system can be increased, while also improving the stability of system.
Further, film forming agent includes kayexalate, Sodium Hyaluronate and carboxymethylchitosan.Polyphenyl
Vinyl sulfonic acid sodium is a multi-functional polymer, has original application in hair care and skin care item.It can be formed it is transparent, have
The film of elasticity, and shunk when dry, electrostatic is guided rapidly.Its form a film also have high-temperature stability, be resistant to be more than
The high temperature of 300oC.It has strong anionic property, can help to reduce surface tension.In skin care item, its film forming characteristics makes
It has the function of compact skin, smooth wrinkle.Carboxymethylchitosan has good film forming.It is coated on skin table
Behind face, then can form the sugared film of one layer of biology by its extremely strong film forming can significantly improve skin epidermis water loss problem, right
Cuticula keeps moisture-keeping function, prevents from having dry skin.Pm2.5 pollutant and carbon particle can be isolated simultaneously, reduce pm2.5
Response to oxidative stress caused by pollutant and mitochondrial toxicity and reduction skin carbon particle attachment.
Hyaluronic acid is the bio-molecules being widely present in skin and other tissues, has fabulous moisture-keeping function,
It is known as ideal natural moisturizing factor in the world.It is the best object of the performance of keeping humidity used for cosmetic that finds in current nature
Matter.
Meanwhile hyaluronic acid is also one of the main matrix ingredient of application on human skin epidermis and corium, physiological function is to make
Moisture enters space between cells, and forms protein gel in conjunction with protein, and cell is sticked together, the cell generation brought into normal play
The effect of thanking is played and keeps cell moisture, protects cell not by the infringement of pathogen, accelerates to restore skin histology, improves wound and be cured
The effects of conjunction power of regeneration, reduction scar, strengthen immunity.
Hyaluronic acid can also improve skin growth condition, for dermal collagen and elastomer synthesis provide it is superior
The effect of skin-protecting face nursing is played in external environment, the supply of reinforced nutrition matter.Studies have shown that hyaluronic acid HA can be prevented carefully
The generation of some enzymes in born of the same parents, reduces the formation of free radical, is preventing free radical from destroying eucaryotic cell structure, generation lipid peroxidation and is drawing
Play senility of humanbody etc. to play an important role: there is low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid anti-inflammatory, inhibition germ to generate, keep skin light
Clean effect；Suitable place is provided for cell Proliferation and differentiation, directly facilitate cell growth, differentiation, rebuild and repair etc..
Further, silicone oil includes polymethylsilsesquioxane, dimethiconol, the poly- methyl silicon of cetearyl
At least one of oxygen alkane.Silicone oil colorless and odorless is had the advantage that after adding silicone oil in cosmetics, does not influence final product
Appearance and fragrance；Using there is relaxation, extensibility is good；Hydrophobicity and slickness are good；It is non-stimulated to skin, property safe to the human body
It is high；Gas-premeable is good, does not interfere cutaneous respiration；Chemical stability is good, does not react with other cosmetic materials.In skin
Dimethicone is added in care article, cosmetics can be improved to the extensibility of skin, play the effect of protection skin；
At present silicone oil oneself become many cosmetics important component or auxiliary agent, silicone oil have many unique properties, be added makeup
Comfort can have been increased in product and assigned gloss.
Further, emulsifier includes hydrolecithin and sodium acrylate/dimethyl acrylamide sodium acyl taurine and different 16 carbon
Alkane, at least one of polysorbate -80.Hydrolecithin has human skin as a kind of excellent naturally occurring emulsifying agent
There is protective effect.It is the proper constituent of Skin Cell, plays important work in terms of cell metabolism and cell membrane permeability adjusting
With, and to skin, there are also certain physiological actions, increase the cholesterol level of skin, form one layer of skin screen in skin surface
Barrier repairs cuticula, reduces skin irritatin.Also there are moisture-keeping functions simultaneously, there is synergistic function with other raw materials.Propylene
Sour sodium/dimethyl acrylamide sodium acyl taurine and different hexadecane, polysorbate -80 and hydrolecithin collocation skin sense are soft, outside
It goes sightseeing bright.
Further, plankton extractions include coral algae extract.Coral algae is the plant of swimming being made of unicellular alga
Object, also referred to as microalgae.Have benefited from original morphology and pigment synthesis device, this coral algae can resist intense light irradiation.It enables it to
Suspend mode is kept when bad environments should not survive, but can be brought back to life when environment is suitable for.Plankton extractions can increase protease
The activity of body subunit promotes the protein renaturation of oxidation by stimulation thioredoxin and thioredoxin reductase, and maintains
Biobalance.Reinforce cellular hydration degree with extracellular exchange into the cell by increasing.Increase cell activity, has and dispel well
Wrinkle and anti-oxidation efficacy.
Above-mentioned technical proposal is applied, the present invention has the following technical effect that
1. the present invention can prevent and improve skin aging by preferred proportion and the combination of Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract and each component
Phenomenon and free radical is resisted, it is oxidation resistant while can also repair due to time bring face to form layer protecting film in skin surface
Portion's aging problem, and effectively reduce percutaneous water loss rate.
Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract and caffeine silanol in formula coordinate collocation, have anti-oxidant, free radical resisting, resist
The effect of aging, and have effects that releive well decompression, moisturizing, reinforcement is exchanged with extracellular into the cell by increasing
Cellular hydration degree increases cell activity.Meanwhile and rebuilding skin histology, increase real compact skin and anti-inflammatory aspect work,
There are good anti-wrinkle and anti-oxidation efficacy.A variety of skin problems caused by just declining are repaired, while protecting skin to reduce free radical and producing
It is raw.
2. the present invention is by niacinamide, D-pantothenyl aleohol and beta glucan it is reasonably combined, it is synergistic in formula.It can increase
The generation of all kinds of ceramides in skin, the level in cuticula lowers in atopic dermatitis and the skin of aging, in table
The stable state of skin barrier plays a significant role in maintaining.And can be improved the immunity of skin itself, there is the effect of removing free radical,
It assists damaged tissues to accelerate to restore to generate cytokine, there is unique bioactivity in terms of sensitive skin repair, enhancing skin is exempted from
Epidemic disease power can increase the power of regeneration of damaged skin cell, improve the regeneration rate of cuticula, have the spy for helping wound to restore
Property.And can help to skin resist it is exogenous it is various mechanically and chemically stimulate, promote collagen and elastin laminin in skin
Increase, so as to improve skin appearance and wrinkle reduction.
3. the present invention is reasonably combined by hyaluronic acid and kayexalate and anti-inflammatory anti-sensitizer, in all fields
Supplement moisture of skin.Kayexalate, hyaluronic acid and carboxymethylchitosan form one layer of guarantor in skin surface
Cuticula allows the cuticula constantly to dry out originally to suspend dehydration, stays the time to restore the barrier ability of oneself, and repair in skin
Impaired barrier can allow skin to restore the ability of " intercellular lipid " rapidly, and film forming characteristics makes it have compact skin, smooth
The effect of wrinkle, the generation of some enzymes in cell can be prevented by coordinating synergy, reduced the formation of free radical, prevented free radical from destroying
Eucaryotic cell structure generates lipid peroxidation and causes senility of humanbody etc. and plays an important role, and promotes cell growth, differentiation, again
Build and repair etc..
Specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, present invention is further described in detail.Unless otherwise specified, all percentages
It is based on content poidometer relevant to ingredients listed than, number and ratio, and does not therefore include being possibly comprised in commercially available obtain
The carrier or by-product in raw material obtained.
Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract is made by following process:
A. roselle dried flower calyx, 48-50 DEG C of stabilisation Roselle calyx of microwave, by high energy shear milling at powdered, mistake are taken
Sieve makes it uniformly mix the powder with the Roselle calyx powder for accounting for its quality 20 ~ 30% and be placed in reaction unit；
B. 75-85 DEG C of pure water is used to impregnate 40-60 minutes, stirring is centrifuged after 2-2.5 hours, and centrifugation is completed to filter to another
Reaction unit retains filtrate, removes filter residue；
C. the cellulase, protease, amylase for accounting for its quality 5% are added in the filtrate obtained by b step, carries out 50 DEG C of ultrasounds and mentions
30-40min is taken, carries out high speed centrifugation after the completion of ultrasound；
D. solution is filtered after the centrifugation obtained to step c, filters out filter residue, and filtrate flow to through external circulating device through decoloration device
Circulation decoloration 20-40 minutes；
E. the solution distillation and concentration after decolourizing to Step d gained, distillation time 5-6h, steam are condensed through condensing unit；
F. the resulting concentrate of step e is put into water bath chader, adjusts temperature 60 C, extracted 5 hours；It is adjusted in drying box
Temperature is 60 DEG C, and supernatant is placed drying box drying 6-8 hours, obtains Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract.
The following table 1 is the composition table of 3 preferred embodiments and 3 comparative examples of the invention:
Table 1: the formula of embodiment and comparative example
Prepare above-mentioned 3 groups of embodiments and 4 groups of comparative examples the preparation method is as follows:
A phase substance is weighed to beaker, is uniformly mixed, is warming up to 80 DEG C, B phase substance is weighed to another beaker, heating
To 80 DEG C to uniform oily liquid；After A phase substance homogeneous to gel, B phase substance is poured into A and mixes 5 min of homogeneous；Stirring
Paddle stirring is stirred evenly to 40 DEG C hereinafter, sequentially add C phase substance, after sequentially add D phase substance, continue stirring cooling
To 30 DEG C hereinafter, stopping stirring.
Test purpose: instrument efficacy assessment is carried out the effect of to above-mentioned 8 compositions, human body evaluates two methods
Efficacy assessment is carried out, finally obtains the average result as shown in table 2.
Test process:
1. arbitrarily selecting 320 volunteers, after entering group, every group is 35 volunteers, selects inboard arm as survey
Position is tried, test position, which is tested first 2~3 days, to use any product (cosmetics or topical drug), cannot be connect within 1~3 hour
Water is touched, cuticula moisture content measuring project symmetrically randomly selects the test zone of 4 points (interval 1cm), warp in test position
Epidermis fluid loss test item symmetrically longitudinally chooses the test zone of (interval 2cm), check plot and sample area in test position at 3 points
Should all wherein side that is random and being uniformly present in sample totality left and right sides, the taking of check plot and sample area should a little control pair
Claim；
2. after screening group, subject needs unified clear water cleaning test position, moisture is wiped with dry face tissue, is being accorded with
It closes and sits quietly 10 min in the room of environmental requirement, during which cannot drink water and beverage.Test position exposure, is placed in test mode,
Holding is loosened；
3. with the cuticula moisture content of Corneometer moisture measurement probe test subject check plot, sample area, Mei Gequ
Domain is measured in parallel 2 times, is averaged as basic cuticula moisture content；
4. with Tewameter water loss probe test subject check plot, sample area through epidermis fluid loss, each region is surveyed
It is 3 times fixed, through epidermis fluid loss based on being averaged；
5. using sample: 0.018g sample being applied to sample area, is applied to and fully absorbs.Check plot is blank；
6. efficacy test: the timing since the time for smearing sample measures the cutin of sample area, check plot in 1h, 3h, 6h respectively
Layer moisture content, through epidermis fluid loss, each region of cuticula moisture content is measured in parallel 2 times, through each area of epidermis fluid loss
Domain measures 3 times, is respectively averaged as test cuticula moisture content value, test through epidermis dehydration magnitude, same tested
The test of person must use same instrument to be completed by the same tester, should clean test probe between measurement twice.
Test equipment and material:
Table 2: test equipment
| Instrument title | Model specification |
| Skinanalysis apparatus | CK MPA580 |
| Corneometer moisture measurement probe | Corneometer CM825 |
| Tewameter water loss probe | Tewameter TM300 |
Method for testing and analyzing: mean analysis, change rate analysis and T are examined.
Test result:
Table 3: the effect of embodiment and comparative example, assesses test result
Comparative example 1 does not add caffeine silanol, roselle extract and beta glucan these antioxidant contents, cannot and its
His component infringement of the static free radical to cell membrane together, free radical excessively will also result in a series of vicious circle-inflammation,
Cell death or canceration, collagen follow the string-spot, wrinkle and small pox, and crossing polyradical can also make skin accelerate saccharification
Process allows skin to lose dark yellow and elastic.Antioxidant content forms layer protecting film in skin surface, while anti-oxidant resistance is certainly
By base, injury of the extraneous factor to skin is avoided, inhibits the Apoptosis of response to oxidative stress induction, maintains the complete of cell membrane
Has the function of significant anti-oxidant, anti-aging with stablizing.And percutaneous water loss rate is effectively reduced, make the great guarantor of skin
It is wet.So the moisture content of comparative example 1 is substantially reduced, skin moisture content is substantially reduced, through epidermis average moisture turnover rate
Obviously increase.
Comparative example 2 does not add hydrolecithin, allantoin, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, beta glucan and D-pantothenyl aleohol these anti-inflammatory
Anti-sensitizer, cannot be with other components together synergistic supplement lipid identical with composition epidermal permeability barrier, cannot be in skin
Skin reaches antiinflammation, these anti-inflammatory anti-sensitizers not only have anti-inflammatory performance in skin, there are also bacteriostatic activity use, can protect and
Skin is cured, protects it from the influence of daily tension, and accelerate the healing process of skin, and the shape that declines at the beginning of can obviously improve skin
Condition.So the moisture content of comparative example 2 is substantially reduced, also increased through epidermis average moisture turnover rate in short term.
Comparative example 3 does not add niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, carboxymethylchitosan and kayexalate, they
Can be synergistic in formula, the generation of ceramide in skin can be increased, and can play in the maintenance of the stable state of epidermal barrier
Important function, decline state at the beginning of improving skin, restores full state.Kayexalate, hyaluronic acid and carboxymethyl are deacetylated
Chitin has good film forming, after being coated on skin surface, then can form the sugared film of one layer of biology.By its it is extremely strong at
Film property can significantly improve skin epidermis water loss problem, and energy Stratum Corneum keeps moisture-keeping function, prevents from having dry skin, and resists outer
Portion's injury, coordinates synergistic antioxidant, also there is compact lifting to skin.So the moisture content of comparative example 3 is substantially reduced,
It is also being increased through epidermis average moisture turnover rate in short term.
Although description of this invention combination embodiments above carries out, those skilled in the art
Member can carry out many replacements based on the above contents, modifications and variations, be obvious.Therefore, all such substitutions,
Improvements and changes are included in the spirit and scope of appended claims.
Claims (8)
1. a kind of preparation method of Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract, which comprises the steps of:
A. roselle dried flower calyx, 48-50 DEG C of stabilisation Roselle calyx of microwave, by high energy shear milling at powdered, mistake are taken
Sieve makes it uniformly mix the powder with the Roselle calyx powder for accounting for its quality 20 ~ 30% and be placed in reaction unit；
B. 75-85 DEG C of pure water is used to impregnate 40-60 minutes, stirring is centrifuged after 2-2.5 hours, and centrifugation is completed to filter to another
Reaction unit retains filtrate, removes filter residue；
C. the cellulase, protease, amylase for accounting for its quality 5% are added in the filtrate obtained by b step, carries out 50 DEG C of ultrasounds and mentions
30-40min is taken, carries out high speed centrifugation after the completion of ultrasound；
D. solution is filtered after the centrifugation obtained to step c, filters out filter residue, and filtrate flow to through external circulating device through decoloration device
Circulation decoloration 20-40 minutes；
E. the solution distillation and concentration after decolourizing to Step d gained, distillation time 5-6h, steam are condensed through condensing unit；
F. the resulting concentrate of step e is put into water bath chader, adjusts temperature, extracted 5 hours；Temperature is adjusted in drying box
It is 60 DEG C, supernatant is placed drying box drying 6-8 hours, obtains Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract.
2. a kind of facial-care composition, which is characterized in that including following mass percent component:
Calyx Hibisci Sabdariffae extract 0.1-3% described in claim 1；
Polyalcohol 2-6%；
Beta glucan 0.2%-5%；
Film forming agent 0.12%-1.8%；
Thicken suspending agent 0.05%-1%；
Silicone oil 0.2%-10%；
Emulsifier 2.5%-4.5%；
Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.02%-0.2%；
Dehydroxanthan 0.1%-1%；
D-pantothenyl aleohol 0.1%-1%；
Caffeine silanol 0.1-5%；
Niacinamide 1%-5%；
Plankton extractions 0.1-3%；
Allantoin 0.05%-0.2%.
3. facial-care composition according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the polyalcohol includes ethylene glycol, sweet
At least one of oil, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, 1,3-BDO, polyglycereol.
4. facial-care composition according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the thickening suspending agent includes acryloyl
Dimethyltaurine ammonium/VP copolymer.
5. facial-care composition according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the film forming agent includes polystyrene sulphur
Sour sodium, Sodium Hyaluronate and carboxymethylchitosan.
6. facial-care composition according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the silicone oil includes poly- methyl silicon sesquialter
Oxygen alkane, dimethiconol, at least one of cetearyl methicone.
7. facial-care composition according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the emulsifier includes hydrolecithin
With sodium acrylate/dimethyl acrylamide sodium acyl taurine and different hexadecane, at least one of polysorbate -80.
8. facial-care composition according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the plankton extractions include coral
Algae extract.
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| CN111202693A (en) * | 2019-10-19 | 2020-05-29 | 浙江海洋大学 | Preparation method and application of anti-putrefying active ingredient in roselle |
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| CN111202693A (en) * | 2019-10-19 | 2020-05-29 | 浙江海洋大学 | Preparation method and application of anti-putrefying active ingredient in roselle |
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| CN111494255A (en) * | 2020-06-03 | 2020-08-07 | 广东芭薇生物科技股份有限公司 | Composition containing ginseng cordyceps sinensis fermentation extract and application of composition in cosmetics |
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| CN113208960A (en) * | 2021-05-06 | 2021-08-06 | 科丝美诗(中国)化妆品有限公司 | Skin care composition for controlling oil and repairing skin barrier and preparation method and application thereof |
| CN113171319A (en) * | 2021-05-07 | 2021-07-27 | 宝萃生物科技有限公司 | Instant and long-acting anti-aging wrinkle-removing compound plant extract and preparation method and application thereof |
| CN114796052A (en) * | 2022-05-11 | 2022-07-29 | 广州清淞泉生物科技有限公司 | Moisturizing composition, moisturizing essence and preparation method thereof |
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