CN108252127B - Air layer suede nap sanding process - Google Patents

Air layer suede nap sanding process Download PDF

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Publication number
CN108252127B
CN108252127B CN201810066001.4A CN201810066001A CN108252127B CN 108252127 B CN108252127 B CN 108252127B CN 201810066001 A CN201810066001 A CN 201810066001A CN 108252127 B CN108252127 B CN 108252127B
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Prior art keywords
temperature
sanding
cloth
air layer
dyeing
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CN108252127A (en
Inventor
王彪
徐晨威
徐良
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Zhejiang Dongsheng Dyeing & Printing Co ltd
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Zhejiang Dongsheng Dyeing & Printing Co ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C27/00Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0032Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/30Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups furs feathers, dead hair, furskins, pelts

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses an air layer suede sanding process, which comprises the following steps: unwinding; refining; thirdly, splitting the fiber; presetting; sanding; sixthly, dyeing; seventhly, shaping the finished product; eighthly, brushing the bristles; ninthly, rolling. The process has good napping effect, can effectively control the neatness, length and density of the fluff, and simplifies the process flow.

Description

Air layer suede nap sanding process
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of textile fabrics, in particular to an air layer suede sanding process.
Background
Suede is a fabric made of animal suede. The suede fabric has many properties not inferior to natural suede, and has many properties even superior to natural suede, such as soft texture, waxy property, good drapability, and light and thin texture. The existing dyeing and finishing sanding process of the suede nap is complex, the napping effect is not good enough, and the neatness and the hand feeling of the suede nap are required to be improved.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provide an air layer suede sanding process which is good in napping effect, capable of effectively controlling the neatness, length and density of fluff and simplified in process flow.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
an air layer suede sanding process comprises the following steps:
unwinding;
refining, wherein the cloth feeding speed in the refining process is 45m/min, and the cloth passes through three water tanks with the temperatures of 60 ℃, 70 ℃ and 90 ℃ in sequence; the cloth surface is smooth through the refining process.
Thirdly, opening fiber, wherein the opening process is finished in an overflow cylinder, liquid alkali, a desizing agent and a degreasing agent are added into the overflow cylinder, the liquid alkali content is 20g/L, the desizing agent content is 1g/L, the degreasing agent content is 1g/L, the initial temperature of the opening process is 60 ℃, the temperature is increased to 90 ℃ at the temperature rising speed of 1.2 ℃/min and then is kept for 10min, the temperature is increased to 120 ℃ at the temperature rising speed of 2 ℃/min and then is kept for 60min, the temperature is decreased to 70 ℃ at the temperature falling speed of 2 ℃/min, and the surface of the cloth is fine, soft and fluffy through the opening process;
fourthly, presetting, wherein the cloth feeding speed in the presetting procedure is 30m/min, and the temperature is 185 ℃; preliminarily adjusting the width and the gram weight of the cloth through a pre-setting process;
sanding, wherein the sanding process is single-side sanding, the sanding process is completed on a sanding machine, four guide rollers are sequentially arranged on the sanding machine along the advancing direction of the cloth, the outer walls of the four guide rollers are coated with a layer of abrasive leather, the abrasive leather of the four guide rollers is sequentially 500 meshes, 400 meshes and 600 meshes, and the rotating speed of the guide rollers is 1200 revolutions per minute; in the whole sanding process, the surface roughness of the sand skin is relatively thin → thick → thinner, so the raising effect of the cloth is better.
Sixthly, dyeing, wherein disperse dye, leveling agent, acetic acid and chelating dispersant are added in the dyeing process, the content of the leveling agent is 1g/L, the content of the acetic acid is 1g/L, the content of the chelating dispersant is 0.5g/L, the PH is controlled to be 4-5, the starting temperature of the dyeing process is 48 ℃, then the dyeing process is heated to 130 ℃ at a heating rate of 1.2-1.5 ℃/min, then the dyeing process is kept for 40-50 min, and then the dyeing process is cooled to 70 ℃ at a cooling rate of 2 ℃/min; the fabric has the advantages that the initial temperature is low, the fabric is kept warm after being slowly heated, the defect rate is reduced, the product quality is improved, the raising effect is guaranteed, the color yield is high in an acid environment, the coloring speed is high, the dye is not easy to permeate into the fiber, the fabric is more bright, the penetration uniformity of the fabric is improved by the leveling agent, the color is more bright, the chelating dispersant can prevent the fiber from being re-stained by metal salt, and the whiteness, the brightness and the color fastness of the dyed fabric are high;
seventhly, shaping a finished product, wherein the cloth feeding speed in the finished product shaping procedure is 25m/min, and the temperature is 180 ℃; finally adjusting the width and the gram weight of the cloth through a finished product shaping procedure;
the brushing process is finished on a brushing machine, the brushing process is single-side brushing and is the same as the single-side sanding of the sanding process, three carbon combing rollers are arranged on the brushing machine in the advancing direction of the cloth, the rotating speed of the carbon combing rollers is 500 r/min, and the brushing is carried out on the napping surface of the fabric which is subjected to the sanding process through flexible bristles on the carbon combing rollers, so that the neatness of the napping is improved;
ninthly, rolling.
The unwinding process is completed on an unwinding machine, and the cloth surfaces of the multiple rolls of cloth are aligned and connected at the junction by a suture line during unwinding, so that the front and back surfaces of the multiple rolls of cloth are consistent.
The refining process is completed in an open width pre-compressor, and three water tanks with the temperatures of 60 ℃, 70 ℃ and 90 ℃ are sequentially arranged in the open width pre-compressor along the advancing direction of the cloth.
The width of the cloth after the pre-setting procedure is 148cm, and the gram weight is 380g/m2
The width of the cloth after the finished product shaping procedure is 154cm, and the gram weight is 360g/m2
When the dyeing is carried out to be light color, the starting temperature of the dyeing procedure is 48 ℃, then the temperature is increased to 90 ℃ at the heating rate of 1.3 ℃/min, then the temperature is increased to 130 ℃ at the heating rate of 1.2 ℃/min, then the temperature is maintained for 40min, and then the temperature is reduced to 70 ℃ at the cooling rate of 2 ℃/min.
When the dyeing process is carried out to deep color, the starting temperature of the dyeing process is 48 ℃, then the temperature is increased to 130 ℃ at the heating rate of 1.5 ℃/min, then the temperature is maintained for 50min, and then the temperature is reduced to 70 ℃ at the cooling rate of 2 ℃/min.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: the product has good quality, good napping effect, effective control of the neatness, length and density of the fluff, simplified process flow, and air permeability, moisture permeability, softness and elasticity of the product.
The chemical formula of the liquid alkali in the invention is NaOH, the desizing agent is M-1109 produced by Mei HD cleaning products Co., Ltd, Dongguan city, the oil removing agent is TF-105C produced by Zhejiang infectious chemical products Co., Ltd, the disperse dye is disperse dye with various heterocyclic structures of Shanghai Annuo textile chemical products Co., Ltd, the leveling agent is superfine fiber leveling agent of Zhejiang infectious chemical products Co., Ltd, and the chemical formula of acetic acid is CH3COOH, chelating dispersant was TF-510 produced by Zhejiang chemical Co., Ltd.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described below by means of specific embodiments:
example 1:
an air layer suede sanding process comprises the following steps:
unwinding; the unwinding process is completed on an unwinding machine, and the cloth surfaces of the multiple rolls of cloth are aligned and connected at the juncture by a suture line during unwinding;
refining, wherein the refining process is finished in an open width pre-shrinking machine, and three water tanks with the temperatures of 60 ℃, 70 ℃ and 90 ℃ are sequentially arranged in the open width pre-shrinking machine along the advancing direction of the cloth; in the refining procedure, the cloth feeding speed is 45m/min, and the cloth passes through three water tanks in sequence;
thirdly, opening fiber, wherein the opening procedure is finished in an overflow cylinder, liquid alkali, a desizing agent and an oil removing agent are added into the overflow cylinder, the liquid alkali content is 20g/L, the desizing agent content is 1g/L, the oil removing agent content is 1g/L, the initial temperature of the opening procedure is 60 ℃, then the temperature is increased to 90 ℃ at the heating rate of 1.2 ℃/min and then is kept for 10min, then the temperature is increased to 120 ℃ at the heating rate of 2 ℃/min and then is kept for 60min, and then the temperature is decreased to 70 ℃ at the cooling rate of 2 ℃/min;
fourthly, presetting, wherein the cloth feeding speed in the presetting procedure is 30m/min, and the temperature is 185 ℃; the width of the cloth after the pre-setting procedure is 148cm, and the gram weight is 380g/m2
Sanding, wherein the sanding process is single-side sanding, the sanding process is completed on a sanding machine, four guide rollers are sequentially arranged on the sanding machine along the advancing direction of the cloth, the outer walls of the four guide rollers are coated with a layer of abrasive leather, the abrasive leather of the four guide rollers is sequentially 500 meshes, 400 meshes and 600 meshes, and the rotating speed of the guide rollers is 1200 revolutions per minute;
sixthly, dyeing, wherein disperse dye, leveling agent, acetic acid and chelating dispersant are added in the dyeing process, the content of the leveling agent is 1g/L, the content of the acetic acid is 1g/L, the content of the chelating dispersant is 0.5g/L, the PH is controlled to be 4-5, the starting temperature of the dyeing process is 48 ℃ when the light color is dyed, then the temperature is increased to 90 ℃ at the heating rate of 1.3 ℃/min, then the temperature is increased to 130 ℃ at the heating rate of 1.2 ℃/min, then the temperature is maintained for 40min, and then the temperature is decreased to 70 ℃ at the cooling rate of 2 ℃/min;
seventhly, shaping a finished product, wherein the cloth feeding speed in the finished product shaping procedure is 25m/min, and the temperature is 180 ℃; the width of the cloth after the finished product shaping procedure is 154cm, and the gram weight is 360g/m2
The brushing process is finished on a brushing machine, the brushing process is single-side brushing and is the same as the single-side sanding of the sanding process, three carbon combing rollers are arranged on the brushing machine in the advancing direction of the cloth, and the rotating speed of the carbon combing rollers is 500 r/min;
ninthly, rolling.
Example 2:
an air layer suede sanding process comprises the following steps:
unwinding; the unwinding process is completed on an unwinding machine, and the cloth surfaces of the multiple rolls of cloth are aligned and connected at the juncture by a suture line during unwinding;
refining, wherein the refining process is finished in an open width pre-shrinking machine, and three water tanks with the temperatures of 60 ℃, 70 ℃ and 90 ℃ are sequentially arranged in the open width pre-shrinking machine along the advancing direction of the cloth; in the refining procedure, the cloth feeding speed is 45m/min, and the cloth passes through three water tanks in sequence;
thirdly, opening fiber, wherein the opening procedure is finished in an overflow cylinder, liquid alkali, a desizing agent and an oil removing agent are added into the overflow cylinder, the liquid alkali content is 20g/L, the desizing agent content is 1g/L, the oil removing agent content is 1g/L, the initial temperature of the opening procedure is 60 ℃, then the temperature is increased to 90 ℃ at the heating rate of 1.2 ℃/min and then is kept for 10min, then the temperature is increased to 120 ℃ at the heating rate of 2 ℃/min and then is kept for 60min, and then the temperature is decreased to 70 ℃ at the cooling rate of 2 ℃/min;
fourthly, presetting, wherein the cloth feeding speed in the presetting procedure is 30m/min, and the temperature is 185 ℃; the width of the cloth after the pre-setting procedure is 148cm, and the gram weight is 380g/m2
Sanding, wherein the sanding process is single-side sanding, the sanding process is completed on a sanding machine, four guide rollers are sequentially arranged on the sanding machine along the advancing direction of the cloth, the outer walls of the four guide rollers are coated with a layer of abrasive leather, the abrasive leather of the four guide rollers is sequentially 500 meshes, 400 meshes and 600 meshes, and the rotating speed of the guide rollers is 1200 revolutions per minute;
sixthly, dyeing, wherein disperse dye, leveling agent, acetic acid and chelating dispersant are added in the dyeing process, the content of the leveling agent is 1g/L, the content of the acetic acid is 1g/L, the content of the chelating dispersant is 0.5g/L, the PH is controlled to be 4-5, the starting temperature of the dyeing process is 48 ℃ when deep color dyeing is carried out, the temperature is increased to 130 ℃ at the rate of 1.5 ℃/min and then is kept for 50min, and then the temperature is decreased to 70 ℃ at the rate of 2 ℃/min;
seventhly, shaping a finished product, wherein the cloth feeding speed in the finished product shaping procedure is 25m/min, and the temperature is 180 ℃; the width of the cloth after the finished product shaping procedure is 154cm, and the gram weight is 360g/m2
The brushing process is finished on a brushing machine, the brushing process is single-side brushing and is the same as the single-side sanding of the sanding process, three carbon combing rollers are arranged on the brushing machine in the advancing direction of the cloth, and the rotating speed of the carbon combing rollers is 500 r/min;
ninthly, rolling.
The above description is only for the purpose of illustrating the preferred embodiments of the present invention and is not to be construed as limiting the invention, and any modifications, equivalents, improvements and the like that fall within the spirit and principle of the present invention are intended to be included therein.

Claims (7)

1. An air layer suede sanding process is characterized by comprising the following steps:
unwinding;
refining, wherein the cloth feeding speed in the refining process is 45m/min, and the cloth passes through three water tanks with the temperature of 60 ℃, 70 ℃ and 90 ℃ in sequence;
thirdly, opening fiber, wherein the opening procedure is finished in an overflow cylinder, liquid alkali, a desizing agent and an oil removing agent are added into the overflow cylinder, the liquid alkali content is 20g/L, the desizing agent content is 1g/L, the oil removing agent content is 1g/L, the initial temperature of the opening procedure is 60 ℃, then the temperature is increased to 90 ℃ at the heating rate of 1.2 ℃/min and then is kept for 10min, then the temperature is increased to 120 ℃ at the heating rate of 2 ℃/min and then is kept for 60min, and then the temperature is decreased to 70 ℃ at the cooling rate of 2 ℃/min;
fourthly, presetting, wherein the cloth feeding speed in the presetting procedure is 30m/min, and the temperature is 185 ℃;
sanding, wherein the sanding process is single-side sanding, the sanding process is completed on a sanding machine, four guide rollers are sequentially arranged on the sanding machine along the advancing direction of the cloth, the outer walls of the four guide rollers are coated with a layer of abrasive leather, the abrasive leather of the four guide rollers is sequentially 500 meshes, 400 meshes and 600 meshes, and the rotating speed of the guide rollers is 1200 revolutions per minute;
sixthly, dyeing, wherein disperse dye, leveling agent, acetic acid and chelating dispersant are added in the dyeing process, the leveling agent content is 1g/L, the acetic acid content is 1g/L, the chelating dispersant content is 0.5g/L, the pH is controlled to be 4-5, the starting temperature of the dyeing process is 48 ℃, the temperature is increased to 130 ℃ at a temperature rising speed of 1.2-1.5 ℃/min, then the temperature is maintained for 40-50 min, and then the temperature is decreased to 70 ℃ at a temperature decreasing speed of 2 ℃/min;
seventhly, shaping a finished product, wherein the cloth feeding speed in the finished product shaping procedure is 25m/min, and the temperature is 180 ℃;
the brushing process is finished on a brushing machine, the brushing process is single-side brushing and is the same as the single-side sanding of the sanding process, three carbon combing rollers are arranged on the brushing machine in the advancing direction of the cloth, and the rotating speed of the carbon combing rollers is 500 r/min;
ninthly, rolling.
2. The air layer suede sanding process of claim 1, wherein the unwinding process is performed on an unwinding machine, and the multiple rolls of cloth are aligned and sewn together at the interface during unwinding.
3. The air layer suede sanding process of claim 1, wherein the refining process is performed in an open width pre-compressor in which three water tanks having a temperature of 60 ℃, 70 ℃ and 90 ℃ are sequentially provided along a cloth advancing direction.
4. The air layer suede sanding process of claim 1, wherein the width of the cloth after the pre-setting process is 148cm and the gram weight is 380g/m2
5. The air layer suede sanding process of claim 1, wherein the width of the cloth after the finishing process is 154cm and the gram weight is 360g/m2
6. The suede sanding process for air layer according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the dyeing process is started at 48 ℃ when dyeing light color, then the temperature is raised to 90 ℃ at a heating rate of 1.3 ℃/min, then the temperature is raised to 130 ℃ at a heating rate of 1.2 ℃/min, then the temperature is maintained for 40min, and then the temperature is lowered to 70 ℃ at a cooling rate of 2 ℃/min.
7. The air layer suede sanding process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the dyeing process is started at 48 ℃ when dyeing a deep color, and then the temperature is raised to 130 ℃ at a rate of 1.5 ℃/min, then the temperature is maintained for 50min, and then the temperature is lowered to 70 ℃ at a rate of 2 ℃/min.
CN201810066001.4A 2018-01-23 2018-01-23 Air layer suede nap sanding process Active CN108252127B (en)

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CN110306278A (en) * 2019-04-28 2019-10-08 苏州爱默生纺织科技有限公司 A kind of preparation process of chamois flannel face fabric
CN111088713B (en) * 2019-12-26 2022-07-19 浙江劲光纺织科技有限公司 Dyeing method of TR air layer fabric
CN115074939B (en) * 2022-05-20 2023-11-24 互太(番禺)纺织印染有限公司 Dyeing and finishing process of modified polyester, polyester and spandex blended fabric

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CN101381922A (en) * 2008-10-17 2009-03-11 嘉兴富胜达染整有限公司 Method for producing bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric
CN104775261A (en) * 2015-03-10 2015-07-15 长兴庆裕纺织有限公司 Plain brushed fabric
CN105821608A (en) * 2016-04-25 2016-08-03 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 Dyeing and finishing method of full-cotton napping dyed fabric
CN105780366A (en) * 2016-04-29 2016-07-20 华南再生棉纱(梧州)有限公司 Warp suede production process method
CN107604692A (en) * 2017-07-25 2018-01-19 宣城凯欧纺织有限公司 A kind of terylene Glove suede fabric dyeing and finishing process

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