A kind of new and effective water lock moisturizing toner and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The invention belongs to cosmetic technical field, more particularly to a kind of new and effective water lock moisturizing toner.
Background technology
At present, supplement and maintain skin moisture, be one of important means of skin care, and toner is due to its salubrious moisturizing
Characteristic has consequence in skin-protection product.
In order to improve water lock effect of toner, typically lifted by improving the fat content in toner formula system
Water lock effect of toner, at present, the formula system of toner mainly have two kinds, i.e., simple thickened systems and emulsification system, its
In:Simple thickened systems can increase the content of grease on the premise of the mobility feature of toner and natural skin sense is kept,
But the bearing capacity of grease is far from enough to be generally less than 3%;Emulsification system can increase the content of grease, but the content of grease
Increase will inevitably improve toner viscosity so that toner can not meet its mobility feature and to skin sense
It is required that therefore, needing badly and providing a kind of new toner, it can not only keep toner mobility outward appearance and product stable
Property, but also there is higher fat content, so that toner has more preferable water lock moisture-keeping efficacy.
The content of the invention
First goal of the invention of the present invention be to provide a kind of mobility outward appearance that can not only keep aqua product and
Product stability, and the toner with higher fat content.
Second goal of the invention of the present invention is to provide a kind of preparation method of new and effective water lock toner.
In order to realize first goal of the invention of the present invention, the technical solution adopted in the present invention is:
The invention provides a kind of new and effective water lock moisturizing toner, it includes 50wt.%-90wt.% suspended substance
System contains oil particles with 10wt.%-50wt.%'s;Preferably, the oil-containing granule content is that 10wt.%-40wt.% (suspends
System is 60wt.%-90wt.%);It is highly preferred that the content containing oil particles is 20wt.%-30wt.% (suspension systems
For 70wt.%-80wt.%).
Wherein, the suspension system contains aqueous phase and rheology modifier;Preferably, wherein the aqueous phase and rheology modifier
Weight ratio be 80~99.5:1st, preferably 90~99.5:1st, more preferably 95~99:1st, more preferably 99:1.It is described to be containing oil particles
The product embedded using the polymer with filming function as wall material to oil-containing content, and the content and the wall
The weight ratio of material is 3~6:1;More preferably 3~5:1;More preferably 4:1;Or the oil particles that contain are with existing for particle poly- two
Methylsiloxane.
In certain embodiments, it is described containing oil particles be by wall material of the polymer with filming function to oil-containing content
During the product embedded, one or more of the wall material in collagen class, poly- polysaccharide and poly- sweet dew carbohydrate;It is preferred that
Ground, one kind in agar, gelatin, xanthan gum, Arabic gum, ghatti gum, calcium alginate, Sodium Hyaluronate of the wall material or
It is several;
The content contains grease, and in the present invention, the grease includes the single grease that can be applied in skin care item
Or the mixture of different greases, moreover, when the grease in oil-containing content is the mixture of different greases, the content of each component
Ratio is the typical proportions in cosmetic formulations system, and not strict restriction in the present invention, specifically, the grease are selected
One or more from vegetable oil, mineral oil, animal oil.
The vegetable oil that described vegetable oil is commonly used in cosmetics, such as olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut
Oil, bird rape seed oil, apricot kernel oil, palm oil or jojoba oil, and the also liquid part of coconut oil or palm shell oil, and also
There are animal oil, such as the liquid part of sperm oil, neat's foot oil or butter.
The mineral oil that described mineral oil is commonly used in cosmetics, such as paraffin oil, White Mineral Oil, isohexadecane, the poly- last of the ten Heavenly stems
Alkene, petroleum jelly, light liquid paraffin or saualane etc..
The animal oil that described animal oil is commonly used in cosmetics, such as lanolin, mink oil, snake oil, house oil, block that
Bar wax, beeswax, fat of Oromaius norvaehollandeae etc..
Conventional use of oil-soluble ingredients in cosmetics can also be added except grease, in the content, such as pigment, are prevented
Shine the one or more in agent, mica, antioxidant or titanium dioxide.
Preferably, the wall material is calcium alginate, and the grease is diphenyl dimethicone;Or the wall material
For Sodium Hyaluronate, the grease is caprylic/capric triglyceride.
In the present invention, rheology modifier is water-soluble polymer, and it has certain suspending power and specific skin sense, specifically
Ground, the rheology modifier are selected from gelatin, animal protein, vegetable protein, quaternized peas protein, hydrolyzed wheat, silk amino
Acid, hydrolyzed silk protein, quaternized silk-fibroin, native silk protein, hyaluronic acid albumen, hydrolysis holoprotein, hydrolysis milk proem, I
It is primary glue, agar, antler glue, pectin, ghatti gum, guar gum, alginic acid, alginate, chitin derivativ, deacetylated
Polysaccharide, quaternized hydroxypropyl chitin, hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, protein hydrolysate, xanthan gum, alkylcellulose, hydroxyalkyl
Cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, quaternized cellulose, corn
Starch, octyl group starch butanedioic acid aluminium, polyvinyl alcohol and its derivative, polyethylene glycol, polyoxyethylene, monoalkyl esters, acetic acid second
Alkene ester/crotonic acid-copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and its derivative, acrylic acid, the derivative of methacrylic acid and acrylamide
Thing, polyquaternium, dimethyl silicone polymer, sodium magnesium silicate, Magnesiumaluminumsilicate, bentonite, modified alta-mud, gellan gum, carboxymethyl
One or more in cellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate;Preferably, it is cold to be selected from carbomer, xanthan gum, knot for the rheology modifier
Any one in glue, carboxymethyl cellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate.
In the present invention more preferably embodiment, the rheology modifier is carbomer or gellan gum, and this is due to that knot is cold
Glue and carbomer are preferable suspending agents, and it can be used for the solid grease particles with certain diameter that suspend.
In certain embodiments, other that the aqueous phase can only comprising water or than water are usually used in protecting
Water-soluble material in skin product, these materials are to be usually used in material usually used in personal nursing and cosmetic formulations, example
Such as, the one or more in C2-C5 polyalcohols of the water-soluble material for ethanol or containing at least two hydroxyls, it is described
Polyalcohol is the one or more in glycerine, propane diols, 1,3 butylene glycol, panthenol, PEG-8.
The suspension system of the present invention can also add a certain amount of accessory ingredients, and the accessory ingredients do not interfere with described refreshing
The property of skin water, for example, the accessory ingredients can be NMF, free radical scavenger, chelating agent, antioxidant, preservative with
And essence etc., and these accessory ingredients are included according to its dissolubility in pure water in pure water, wherein:The NMF
Can be polyalcohol, amino acid, polysaccharide etc., the free radical scavenger can be that non-enzyme scavenger mainly has vitamin E, dimension
Raw plain C, beta carotene, trace elements of selenium etc., enzyme scavenger mainly has superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase
(CAT) and glutathione peroxidase etc., the chelating agent can be EDTA-2Na, EDTA-2Na etc., the antioxidant
Can be BHT, dimension E acetates, ascorbic acid etc., the essence can be with the natural animal-plant grease of pleasant smell or conjunction
Into grease, the preservative can be parabens, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin etc..
Suspension system of the present invention can also add the biological source active material of convention amount, and the biological source is lived
Property material refers to tocopherol and its derivative, ascorbic acid and its derivative, retinol and its derivative, dezyribonucleoside
Acid, Co-Q10, bisabol, allantoin, plant triol, panthenol, hydroxy acid class, salicylic acid, amino acid and its derivative, hyaluronic acid,
Glucan, creatine and its derivative, guanidine and its derivative, ceramide, phytosphingosine and its derivative, sphingol and its spread out
Biology, pseudoceramide, volatile oil, peptides, protein hydrolysate, plant extracts, vitamin and vitamin mixtures.
Present invention also offers a kind of preparation method of new and effective water lock moisturizing toner, it comprises the following steps:
(1) by pure water add emulsification pot in, at 70~90 DEG C, at a temperature of preferably 80~85 DEG C, more preferably 82 DEG C, with
25rpm-30rpm speed stirs 15~30 minutes, preferably 20 minutes, rheology modifier is added during stirring, then
Stirred three minutes with 1800-2000rpm, obtain the suspension system of homogeneous phase, and be cooled to room temperature;
(2) with 5rpm-15rpm mixing speed to being stirred in the suspension system in step (1), and in the mistake of stirring
Oil particles will be contained in journey to add in suspension system prepared by (1);Preferably, the mixing speed is 10rpm.
If with the presence of solid in step (1), need first to be heated to and be dissolved completely in pure water, be then cooled to room
Temperature.
Need to be mixed slowly when carrying out step (2);
Mixing speed in step (2) can be maintained between 5rpm-15rpm, it is preferable that the mixing speed is
10rpm。
It is of the present invention that acquisition can be directly bought by commodity approach containing oil particles.It can derive from Chongqing piller section
Trade Co., Ltd and KPT companies of South Korea etc..
Compared with prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are:
(1) toner of the present invention is made up of suspension system and oil-containing particle, due in containing oil particles, grease
Content is higher, and generally up to 80%, so as to significantly improve the oil content in the toner, and then substantially increase described
Water lock effect of toner.Moreover, containing rheology modifier in the suspension system, it can make oil-containing suspend particle stabilizedly
It is relatively stable so as to ensure that the toner is not in lamination in suspension system;In addition, contain oil particles when described
When for the polymer with filming function being the product that wall material is embedded to oil-containing content so that the oil containing oil particles
Divide leaching rate relatively low, therefore the toner is relatively stable in high temperature or the environment of freezing, thereby may be ensured that institute
State the stability of toner formula.
(2) because aqueous phase is the mixture with water or water and alcohols so that suspension system connects with the index of refraction containing oil particles
Closely, so as to ensure the toner can have aqua clear outward appearance.
Described above is only the general introduction of technical solution of the present invention, in order to better understand the technological means of the present invention,
And can be practiced according to the content of specification, and in order to allow the above and other objects, features and advantages of the present invention can
Become apparent, below especially exemplified by more preferably embodiment, describe in detail as follows.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the product appearance photo of the sample number into spectrum A4 in embodiment sample combination 1;Test prepare combination 4,
The sample of each numbering of combination 7 is also similar to the photo in appearance;The sample of different numberings (different proportion) in same group
Difference be only that substantially particle number on;Higher containing particle fraction, grain density is higher.
Fig. 2 is the product appearance photo of the sample number into spectrum B4 in embodiment sample combination 2, tests the combination 5 prepared
Each numbering sample it is also similar to the photo in appearance;The sample difference base of different numberings (different proportion) in same group
Originally it is only that in the number of particle;Higher containing particle fraction, grain density is higher.
Fig. 3 is the product appearance photo of the sample number into spectrum C3 in embodiment sample combination 3, tests the combination 6 prepared
Each numbering sample it is also similar to the photo in appearance;The sample difference base of different numberings (different proportion) in same group
Originally it is only that in the number of particle;Higher containing particle fraction, grain density is higher.
Fig. 4 be embodiment sample combination 8 in sample number into spectrum H3 product appearance photo, test prepare combination 9,
The sample of each numbering of combination 10 is also similar to the photo in appearance;The sample of different numberings (different proportion) in same group
Product difference be only that substantially particle number on;Higher containing particle fraction, grain density is higher.
Embodiment
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, the present invention will be further elaborated.Embodiment as nonrestrictive example,
Not limiting the scope of the invention.Some nonessential modifications and adjustment that other people are made according to theory of the present invention
Still fall within protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment 1:The preparation method of new and effective water lock moisturizing toner
(1) pure water is added in emulsification pot, stirred 20 minutes at a temperature of 82 DEG C, with 25rpm speed, in stirring
During add rheology modifier, then stirred three minutes with 1800rpm speed, obtain the suspension system of homogeneous phase, and cold
But to room temperature;
(2) with 10rpm mixing speed to being stirred in the suspension system in step (1), and during stirring
Oil particles will be contained to add in suspension system prepared by (1), the toner can be obtained by then stirring 1 minute.
Embodiment 2:Efficient water lock moisturizing toner
Table 1
Remarks:10 in table 1 are combined as the different factors such as polyalcohol, rheology modifier, oil-containing particle type, content
Combined situation.Meanwhile the KPT companies that South Korea is derived from containing oil particles in 1- combinations 7 are combined, the oil-containing in combination 8- combinations 10
Particle derives from Japan XINYUE.Each combination diagram is shown in accompanying drawing.
Comparative example:Without the toner containing oil particles
Table 2
The stability test of embodiment 3
Test objective
Shelf stabilities in the simulation test sample term of validity
Test apparatus
RVDV-IT+P rotary viscosimeters (BROOKFIELD), laboratory PH meter FE20K Plus (plum Teller-Tuo Li
It is more), electronic balance ME3002/02 (plum Teller-support benefit), precision 0.01, xenon lamp aging instrument Q-Sun Xe-3-H.
Experimental condition
40 DEG C of Acceleration studies:Experiment condition is 40 DEG C ± 2 DEG C, 75%RH ± 5%RH;Listing is defined by 3M data.
Cold cycling:Experiment condition for (- 18 DEG C, 25%RH;25 DEG C, 60%RH;40 DEG C, 75%RH), each temperature
24h, 5 circulations are done, list and be defined by three circulations.
Light is stable (instrument):Intensity of illumination 0.35W/M2, test 26.4 hours, 45 DEG C of blackboard temperature (the non-case of blackboard temperature
Temperature), humidity 50%, equivalent to shelf life 2 years (with reference to Colgate-Palmolive method).
Test method
Fragrance:Materials and differentiated with smell.
Color and luster:Materials the visual observations under room temperature and non-direct sunlight.
Outward appearance:Materials the visual observations under room temperature and non-direct sunlight.
PH (dilution method):【GB/T13531.1-2008】.Correction:PH meter is corrected by instrument operation instruction.Three marks of selection
Quasi- cushioning liquid (4.00,6.86,9.18), corrects, or corrected under temperature compensation system at a temperature of defined.Measure:Electricity
The temperature of pole, slurry and standard buffer solution need to be adjusted to set point of temperature, and temperature is closer better to each other, or adjusts simultaneously
Corrected to room temperature.After instrumental correction, electrode is rinsed with tertiary effluent first, is then blotted with filter paper.Electrode is carefully inserted into sample
In, electrode is submerged, treats pH meter stable reading, records reading.Read to finish, need thorough cleaning electrode, it is stand-by.
Test data
Study on the stability is to expect to see as MAIN OUTCOME MEASURES in vitro.
Table 3
According to stability experiment result, when foreign minister's aqua is suspension system, the preferred gellan gum of rheology modifier, carbomer,
Next selects excellent hydroxy ethyl fiber (using particle floating situation as criterion).Wall material preferably clear matter acid containing oil particles, secondly
For calcium alginate (oozing out situation as criterion using oil droplet) therefore, with rheology modifier gellan gum, exemplified by wall material Sodium Hyaluronate
(corresponding combination:9) combination 4, combination 6, combination, combine moisturizing water lock effect, Microbial Challenge, skin patch test to each respectively
Tested.
Embodiment 4:The test of moisturizing water lock effect
In the embodiment of the present invention 4, the moisture-keeping efficacy for embodying toner is tested with keratoderma moisture, skin is percutaneous
Water loss test embodies water lock effect of toner.
Test apparatus
(1) skin moisture content test probe (instrument software CK-MPA-Multi-Probe-AdapterFB):
Corneometer CM825;
(2) skin water loss test probe (instrument software CK-MPA-Multi-Probe-AdapterFB):
Tewameter TM300;
(3) electronic balance:ME204/02;
Test method
(1) keratoderma moisture is tested, test method foundation:QB/T 4256-2033 cosmetics moisture-keeping efficacies are commented
Valency guide;
(2) the percutaneous water loss test of skin, test method foundation:EEMCO Guidance for the
Assessment of Transepidermal Water Loss in Cosmetic Sciences(Skin Pharmacol
Appl Skin Physiol 2003;34:337-328);
Before embodiment, comparative example test sample and blank district are distributed in volunteer according to test zone random distribution table
Demarcation region on the inside of arm, each area size are 3.0cm × 3.0cm, product dosage be (2.0 ± 0.3) mg/cm2 (i.e.
0.0373g-0.0389g), and to 2h, 4h and 6h carry out keratoderma moisture before sample use, after sample use
Content measuring and the percutaneous water loss test of skin.
Test procedure
(1) before testing, subject need to uniformly be cleaned both hands inner forearm by staff, and clean method is with dry face-cloth
Paper wipes 5 back and forth;
(2) measured zone mark is carried out in subject's inner forearm, pilot region area is 3cm × 3cm;
(3) subject sits quietly at least 20 minutes in the room for meet test environment conditions, it is impossible to drinks water and beverage;
(4) the initial value test of keratoderma moisture and the percutaneous water loss of skin is carried out;
(5) in subject's inner forearm according to test zone random distribution table spread product, product dosage is (0.0373-
0.0389) g, latex finger cot need to be worn during spread product;
(6) 2h, 4h, 6h after sample use, keratoderma moisture and the percutaneous moisture stream of skin are carried out
Test is lost, is as a result designated as n (n=2,4,6).
Result of the test
Table 4
Remarks:The percutaneous water loss numerical value of skin is smaller, and reflection sample water lock moistening effect is more notable.Smeared sample it
Afterwards, moisture content of skin improves, and has prompted sample to have preferable water conservation moisturizing effects.
Conclusion (of pressure testing)
Table 5
Table 6
Single factor test correlation analysis |
Glycerine |
Propane diols |
Glycerine |
1.000 |
|
Propane diols |
0.96736 |
1.000 |
Correlation analysis is carried out respectively to keratoderma moisture and the percutaneous water loss test result of skin.
1st, to moisture-keeping efficacy, there was no significant difference in new toner for single factor test polyalcohol, has very extensive answer
With.
2nd, the moisture-keeping efficacy of different grease containing oil particles (caprylic/capric triglyceride, Nexbase 2004) exists notable
Sex differernce, and preferably octanoic acid/Triglyceride DDD, it is secondary to select Nexbase 2004.
3rd, to moisture-keeping efficacy there is significant difference in the grease containing oil particles of different content, 10 compared with comparative example
Significant difference on moisture-keeping efficacy be present containing oil particles in wt.%-50wt.%, 10wt.%, 20wt.%, 30 wt.%,
40wt.%, 50wt.% entirety significant difference are little, and moisture-keeping efficacy, which is presented, persistently strengthens trend.In the present invention, according to oil-containing
Influence of the particle content to outward appearance, oil particles preferred 10wt.%-40wt.%, preferred 20wt.%-30wt.%.
Embodiment 5:Corrosion-resistant is tested
Test objective
Test sample antimicrobial preservation challenges security.
Test method
American Pharmacopeia USP32 (51) antimicrobial preservation efficacy test.
Judgment criteria
CTFA methods:The anti-corrosion single challenge experiment of 28 days by a definite date, preservative is mixed into formulation media, then disposably connect
Enter several species, a number of microorganism throws down the gauntlet, and sample is deposited at appropriate temperature, regular sampling Detection is wherein
The microorganism of remaining, bacterium bacterium colony concentration when the 7th day declined 99.9%, to 28 days continuous decreases;Fungi declined in the 34th day
99.0%, to the 28th day without growth, it is judged as that antiseptic effect is qualified.
Experimental result
Table 7
As a result as shown in table 7, each combination Microbial Challenge is qualified.
Embodiment 6:Human skin patch
Test objective
Test sample causes the possibility of skin adverse reaction.
Test method
Foundation《Cosmetics safety technical specification》(version in 2035).
Test procedure
(1) test relevant information is explained to subject, after subjects signed informed consent form, arranges to test to subject
Numbering, since " 03 ";
(2) subject is allowed to clean the inner forearm of both hands with running water, paper handkerchief at least waits for quietly after drying in test environment
35min;
(3) take a film mottle to try device, the punched small angle of plastic protection cover is fractureed.Adhesive tape is gently drawn backward, until all
Square cell reveal, be careful not to completely tear adhesive tape from protection cap;
(4) according to sample random distribution table, test sample is measured to 25 μ l successively into the square cell of spot examination device;
(5) the spot examination device added with tested material is pasted on to the inner forearm of subject, is gently pressed with finger and is allowed to equably paste
Spread on skin, taken off after continuing 24h;
(6) respectively at the mark in 30min (after impression disappearance), 24h and 48h accordings to the form below 8 after removing tested material spot examination device
Quasi- observation dermoreaction, and record observation result.
Judgment basis
Judgment basis is as shown in table 8:
Table 8
Result of the test
Table 9
Result of the test is as shown in table 9, and each combination skin patch test meets the requirements.