CN107415384A - 一种防皱防静电衬衫及其生产方法 - Google Patents

一种防皱防静电衬衫及其生产方法 Download PDF

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CN107415384A
CN107415384A CN201710621943.XA CN201710621943A CN107415384A CN 107415384 A CN107415384 A CN 107415384A CN 201710621943 A CN201710621943 A CN 201710621943A CN 107415384 A CN107415384 A CN 107415384A
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fabric
parts
shirt
antistatic
wrinkle
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张力
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Hefei Far Garment Design Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种防皱防静电衬衫，所述衬衫面料包括表层的防静电面料层和内层的防皱面料层，所述防静电面料层由78%重量百分比的有机导电纤维和22%重量百分比的亚麻纤维混纺编织而成；所述防皱面料层主要由以下重量份的纤维原材料混纺制成：黄麻纤维15‑25份、涤纶纤维40‑60份、棉纤维25‑35份；所述防静电面料层和防皱面料层之间通过一层热熔胶黏合在一起。本发明还提供一种生产上述防皱防静电衬衫的方法。本发明衬衫的防皱防静电效果好，效果持久，且在生产衬衫过程中使用无甲醛防皱整理液，以减少对人们身体健康的不良影响。

Description

一种防皱防静电衬衫及其生产方法
技术领域
本发明涉及服装加工技术领域，具体涉及一种防皱防静电衬衫及其生产方法。
背景技术
近年来，随着人民生活水平的提高，人们对服装的舒适性和功能性要求越来越高。衬衫一般都是贴身穿着的衣服，因此人们对衬衫的面料要求更高，如果出现静电、打皱、不透气、不柔软等问题，就会严重影响衬衫穿着的舒适度。现在市场上的衬衫在生产过程中为了解决静电、打皱的问题，往往会通过使用防静电剂、防皱剂来解决问题，这样在平时穿着的时候，会起到防皱防静电的作用，但是时间久了以后，防皱剂和防静电剂就会失去效力，衬衫就依然会出现打皱、静电的问题，影响穿着的舒适度和美观。因此传统的衬衫的防静电防皱的效果持久性都不够好，耐水洗性差。另外现有技术中使用的防皱剂中往往会添加甲醛，甲醛对人们的身体健康有着极大的危害，而免烫服装上的甲醛问题已经影响到了免烫服装市场，相当一部分的消费者由于甲醛的危害性而不愿意再购买免烫服装。即使很多厂家采用甲醛捕集剂或采用低甲醛防皱整理剂来降低甲醛释放量，还是不能根除甲醛的危害。
发明内容
鉴于上述现有技术的缺陷，本发明要解决的技术问题是提供一种防皱防静电衬衫及其生产方法，已解决现有技术中衬衫的防皱防静电效果不够好，且效果不持久的缺陷，且在生产衬衫过程中不使用甲醛，以减少对人们身体健康的不良影响。
鉴于上述要解决的技术问题，本发明提供如下的技术解决方案：
一种防皱防静电衬衫，所述衬衫面料包括表层的防静电面料层和内层的防皱面料层，所述防静电面料层由78%重量百分比的有机导电纤维和22%重量百分比的亚麻纤维混纺编织而成；所述防皱面料层主要由以下重量份的纤维原材料混纺制成：黄麻纤维15-25份、涤纶纤维40-60份、棉纤维25-35份；所述防静电面料层和防皱面料层之间通过一层热熔胶黏合在一起。
优选的，所述热熔胶包括如下重量份组分：聚四亚甲基醚二醇30-40份、丙烯酸丁酯20-25份、聚马来酸乙烯酸18-22份、二硫醇琥珀酸15-20份、聚氨酯50-60份、邻苯二甲酸二辛酯5-8份。
优选的，所述有机导电纤维由金属基复合材料、高聚物基复合材料、树脂基复合材料或橡胶基复合材料中一种或几种制成。
优选的，所述有机导电纤维的电阻≤5×106Ω。
本发明还提供一种生产上述防皱防静电衬衫的方法，包括如下步骤：
（1）以78%重量百分比的有机导电纤维和22%重量百分比的亚麻纤维作为原料进行混纺，制成防静电混纺纱线；
（2）将所述黄麻纤维依次进行化学脱胶处理、生物酶脱胶处理、纤维膨胀处理以及机械细化处理，以处理后的黄麻纤维和所述涤纶纤维、棉纤维为原料进行混纺，制成防皱混纺纱线；
（3）将步骤（1）中制得的防静电混纺纱线和步骤（2）中制得的防皱混纺纱线分别进行如下步骤的操作：
1）采用上浆液对所述防静电混纺纱线或所述防皱混纺纱线进行上浆；
2）将上浆后的混纺纱线上织机，织成织物；
3）采用淀粉酶液退浆；
4）采用一浴法处理退浆后的织物；
5）采用直接染料或活性染料进行染色；
6）先将染色后的织物进行生物酶处理，然后进行柔软整理；
7）加入无甲醛抗皱整理剂进行免烫整理；
8）将柔软整理后的织物进行常规水洗，烘干即得所述防静电面料和防皱面料；
（4）在所述防静电面料一面涂布一层热熔胶，使用压烫机将所述防静电面料和防皱面料通过热熔胶黏合在一起，制得所述衬衫面料；
（5）对所述衬衫面料进行液氨处理；
（6）对衬衫面料进行预缩处理，蒸汽压力为2.5-3MPa，蒸汽用量为30-35kg/h；
（7）将衬衫面料浸渍在无甲醛防皱整理液中，浸渍10-40分钟，浸渍温度控制在25-60℃；
（8）对处理后的面料进行烘干、裁剪、制衣，并在110-120℃条件下整烫定型30-35分钟，即生产出所需防皱防静电衬衫。
优选的，所述步骤（2）中的化学脱胶处理，主要是将黄麻纤维进行水浴或酸浴后，采用氢氧化钠溶液进行化学脱胶处理；所述生物酶脱胶处理，主要是采用果胶酶或漆酶或果胶酶与漆酶配成的复合酶对黄麻纤维进行生物酶脱胶处理；所述纤维膨胀处理，主要是采用复合膨胀助剂对黄麻纤维进行纤维膨胀处理，所述的复合膨胀助剂由渗透剂、膨化剂、溶解纤维内胶质成分的助剂组成，其质量比为1:1:1；所述机械细化处理，包括对黄麻纤维施加分梳力使其产生横向劈裂的机械梳理步骤和对黄麻纤维施加拉伸力使其产生纵向滑移的机械牵伸步骤。
优选的，所述步骤（4）中熔融粘合的温度为125-135℃，压力为110-125Pa，时间为8-15s。
优选的，所述步骤（7）中的无甲醛防皱整理液包括如下重量份组分：水性聚氨酯40-50份、双(3，5-二叔丁基-4-羟基)苄基膦酸单乙酯15-20份、壳聚糖2-5份、聚丙烯酸钠分散剂0.5-1.2份、水65-85份。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果是：
（1）本发明的衬衫面料包括表层的防静电面料层和内层的防皱面料层，其中表层由有机导电纤维和亚麻纤维混纺编制而成，内层由黄麻纤维、涤纶纤维、棉纤维混纺而成，使制作的衬衫具有良好的防静电防皱性能，且弹性贴身、吸湿透气性好、柔软舒适；
（2）本发明的所述衬衫的生产方法中将黄麻纤维依次进行化学脱胶处理、生物酶脱胶处理、纤维膨胀处理以及机械细化处理后，再与所述涤纶纤维、棉纤维进行混纺，制成防皱混纺纱线，并将制备好的衬衫面料浸渍在无甲醛抗皱整理液中，使得所生产的衬衫具有更好的抗皱性能，且效果更持久，耐水洗，且棉纤维的吸湿性和黄麻纤维的透气性使得衬衫有独特的凉爽感，出汗不粘身；且因为所用抗皱整理液不含有甲醛，相比传统服装面料，可以减少对身体健康的不良影响。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例，进一步阐述本发明的技术方案。这些实施例仅用于说明本发明的最优方案而不用于限制本发明的保护范围。
实施例1
本实施例提供了一种防皱防静电衬衫，所述衬衫面料包括表层的防静电面料层和内层的防皱面料层，所述防静电面料层由78%重量百分比的有机导电纤维和22%重量百分比的亚麻纤维混纺编织而成；所述防皱面料层主要由以下重量份的纤维原材料混纺制成：黄麻纤维15份、涤纶纤维40份、棉纤维25份；所述防静电面料层和防皱面料层之间通过一层热熔胶黏合在一起。
上述热熔胶包括如下重量份组分：聚四亚甲基醚二醇30份、丙烯酸丁酯20份、聚马来酸乙烯酸18份、二硫醇琥珀酸15份、聚氨酯50份、邻苯二甲酸二辛酯5份。
上述有机导电纤维由金属基复合材料和高聚物基复合材料制成，其电阻≤5×106Ω。
本实施例还提供了一种生产上述防皱防静电衬衫的方法，包括如下步骤：
（1）以78%重量百分比的有机导电纤维和22%重量百分比的亚麻纤维作为原料进行混纺，制成防静电混纺纱线；
（2）将所述黄麻纤维依次进行化学脱胶处理、生物酶脱胶处理、纤维膨胀处理以及机械细化处理，以处理后的黄麻纤维和所述涤纶纤维、棉纤维为原料进行混纺，制成防皱混纺纱线；
化学脱胶处理步骤：主要是将黄麻纤维进行水浴或酸浴后，采用氢氧化钠溶液进行化学脱胶处理。
生物酶脱胶处理步骤：主要是采用果胶酶或漆酶或果胶酶与漆酶配成的复合酶对黄麻纤维进行生物酶脱胶处理，本实施例采用复合酶脱胶处理，首先调整所述的复合酶水溶液的pH值到4.0至5.0之间，并升温到35℃至65℃之间，保持时间为60-120分钟之间，然后再对经过复合酶处理后的黄麻纤维进行酶失活处理即可。
纤维膨胀处理步骤：主要是采用复合膨胀助剂对黄麻纤维进行纤维膨胀处理，所述的复合膨胀助剂由渗透剂、膨化剂、溶解纤维内胶质成分的助剂组成，其质量比为1:1:1，先用10倍水将复合膨胀助剂稀释成水溶液，然后以浴比为1:20-1:30，温度为50-60℃，时间为0.5-4小时对黄麻纤维进行处理。
机械细化处理步骤：包括对黄麻纤维施加分梳力使其产生横向劈裂的机械梳理步骤和对黄麻纤维施加拉伸力使其产生纵向滑移的机械牵伸步骤；本实施例中，，所述的机械梳理采用高齿高密专用锡林针布，降低锡林速度，提高锡林与刺辊的速比，对纤维施加分梳力使其产生横向劈裂，所述的机械牵伸采用双牵伸系统，经锡林梳理后的纤维首先经过在牵伸比和罗拉隔距较小的第一牵伸区，再经牵伸比和罗拉隔距较大的第二牵伸区，对纤维施加拉伸力使其产生纵向滑移。
（3）将步骤（1）中制得的防静电混纺纱线和步骤（2）中制得的防皱混纺纱线分别进行如下步骤的操作：
1）采用上浆液对所述防静电混纺纱线或所述防皱混纺纱线进行上浆；
2）将上浆后的混纺纱线上织机，织成织物；
3）采用淀粉酶液退浆；
4）采用一浴法处理退浆后的织物；
5）采用直接染料进行染色；
6）先将染色后的织物进行生物酶处理，然后进行柔软整理；
7）加入无甲醛抗皱整理剂进行免烫整理；
8）将柔软整理后的织物进行常规水洗，烘干即得所述防静电面料和防皱面料；
（4）在所述防静电面料一面涂布一层热熔胶，使用压烫机将所述防静电面料和防皱面料通过热熔胶黏合在一起，制得所述衬衫面料，其中熔融粘合的温度为125℃，压力为110Pa，时间为8s；
（5）对所述衬衫面料进行液氨处理；
（6）对衬衫面料进行预缩处理，蒸汽压力为2.5MPa，蒸汽用量为30kg/h；
（7）将衬衫面料浸渍在无甲醛防皱整理液中，浸渍10分钟，浸渍温度控制在25℃；所述无甲醛防皱整理液包括如下重量份组分：水性聚氨酯40份、双(3，5-二叔丁基-4-羟基)苄基膦酸单乙酯15份、壳聚糖2份、聚丙烯酸钠分散剂0.5份、水65份。
（8）对处理后的面料进行烘干、裁剪、制衣，并在110℃条件下整烫定型30分钟，即生产出所需防皱防静电衬衫。
实施例2
本实施例提供了一种防皱防静电衬衫，所述衬衫面料包括表层的防静电面料层和内层的防皱面料层，所述防静电面料层由78%重量百分比的有机导电纤维和22%重量百分比的亚麻纤维混纺编织而成；所述防皱面料层主要由以下重量份的纤维原材料混纺制成：黄麻纤维25份、涤纶纤维60份、棉纤维35份；所述防静电面料层和防皱面料层之间通过一层热熔胶黏合在一起。
上述热熔胶包括如下重量份组分：聚四亚甲基醚二醇40份、丙烯酸丁酯25份、聚马来酸乙烯酸22份、二硫醇琥珀酸20份、聚氨酯60份、邻苯二甲酸二辛酯8份。
上述有机导电纤维由金属基复合材料和高聚物基复合材料制成，其电阻≤5×106Ω。
本实施例还提供了一种生产上述防皱防静电衬衫的方法，包括如下步骤：
（1）以78%重量百分比的有机导电纤维和22%重量百分比的亚麻纤维作为原料进行混纺，制成防静电混纺纱线；
（2）将所述黄麻纤维依次进行化学脱胶处理、生物酶脱胶处理、纤维膨胀处理以及机械细化处理，以处理后的黄麻纤维和所述涤纶纤维、棉纤维为原料进行混纺，制成防皱混纺纱线；
本实施例中上述黄麻纤维所进行的化学脱胶处理、生物酶脱胶处理、纤维膨胀处理以及机械细化处理的步骤，和实施例1中的均相同。
（3）将步骤（1）中制得的防静电混纺纱线和步骤（2）中制得的防皱混纺纱线分别进行如下步骤的操作：
1）采用上浆液对所述防静电混纺纱线或所述防皱混纺纱线进行上浆；
2）将上浆后的混纺纱线上织机，织成织物；
3）采用淀粉酶液退浆；
4）采用一浴法处理退浆后的织物；
5）采用活性染料进行染色；
6）先将染色后的织物进行生物酶处理，然后进行柔软整理；
7）加入无甲醛抗皱整理剂进行免烫整理；
8）将柔软整理后的织物进行常规水洗，烘干即得所述防静电面料和防皱面料；
（4）在所述防静电面料一面涂布一层热熔胶，使用压烫机将所述防静电面料和防皱面料通过热熔胶黏合在一起，制得所述衬衫面料，其中熔融粘合的温度为135℃，压力为125Pa，时间为15s；
（5）对所述衬衫面料进行液氨处理；
（6）对衬衫面料进行预缩处理，蒸汽压力为3MPa，蒸汽用量为35kg/h；
（7）将衬衫面料浸渍在无甲醛防皱整理液中，浸渍40分钟，浸渍温度控制在60℃；所述无甲醛防皱整理液包括如下重量份组分：水性聚氨酯50份、双(3，5-二叔丁基-4-羟基)苄基膦酸单乙酯20份、壳聚糖5份、聚丙烯酸钠分散剂1.2份、水85份。
（8）对处理后的面料进行烘干、裁剪、制衣，并在120℃条件下整烫定型35分钟，即生产出所需防皱防静电衬衫。
以上所述仅为本发明的优选实施例而已，并不用于限制本发明，尽管参照前述实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明，对于本领域的技术人员来说，其依然可以对前述实施例所记载的技术方案进行修改，或者对其中部分技术特征进行等同替换。凡在本发明的精神和原则之内，所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等，均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (8)

1.一种防皱防静电衬衫，其特征在于，所述衬衫面料包括表层的防静电面料层和内层的防皱面料层，所述防静电面料层由78%重量百分比的有机导电纤维和22%重量百分比的亚麻纤维混纺编织而成；所述防皱面料层主要由以下重量份的纤维原材料混纺制成：黄麻纤维15-25份、涤纶纤维40-60份、棉纤维25-35份；所述防静电面料层和防皱面料层之间通过一层热熔胶黏合在一起。
2.根据权利要求1所述的防皱防静电衬衫，其特征在于，所述热熔胶包括如下重量份组分：聚四亚甲基醚二醇30-40份、丙烯酸丁酯20-25份、聚马来酸乙烯酸18-22份、二硫醇琥珀酸15-20份、聚氨酯50-60份、邻苯二甲酸二辛酯5-8份。
3.根据权利要求1所述的防皱防静电衬衫，其特征在于，所述有机导电纤维由金属基复合材料、高聚物基复合材料、树脂基复合材料或橡胶基复合材料中一种或几种制成。
4.根据权利要求1所述的防皱防静电衬衫，其特征在于，所述有机导电纤维的电阻≤5×106Ω。
5.一种生产如权利要求1至4中任一项所述的防皱防静电衬衫的方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
（1）以78%重量百分比的有机导电纤维和22%重量百分比的亚麻纤维作为原料进行混纺，制成防静电混纺纱线；
（2）将所述黄麻纤维依次进行化学脱胶处理、生物酶脱胶处理、纤维膨胀处理以及机械细化处理，以处理后的黄麻纤维和所述涤纶纤维、棉纤维为原料进行混纺，制成防皱混纺纱线；
（3）将步骤（1）中制得的防静电混纺纱线和步骤（2）中制得的防皱混纺纱线分别进行如下步骤的操作：
1）采用上浆液对所述防静电混纺纱线或所述防皱混纺纱线进行上浆；
2）将上浆后的混纺纱线上织机，织成织物；
3）采用淀粉酶液退浆；
4）采用一浴法处理退浆后的织物；
5）采用直接染料或活性染料进行染色；
6）先将染色后的织物进行生物酶处理，然后进行柔软整理；
7）加入无甲醛抗皱整理剂进行免烫整理；
8）将柔软整理后的织物进行常规水洗，烘干即得所述防静电面料和防皱面料；
（4）在所述防静电面料一面涂布一层热熔胶，使用压烫机将所述防静电面料和防皱面料通过热熔胶黏合在一起，制得所述衬衫面料；
（5）对所述衬衫面料进行液氨处理；
（6）对衬衫面料进行预缩处理，蒸汽压力为2.5-3MPa，蒸汽用量为30-35kg/h；
（7）将衬衫面料浸渍在无甲醛防皱整理液中，浸渍10-40分钟，浸渍温度控制在25-60℃；
（8）对处理后的面料进行烘干、裁剪、制衣，并在110-120℃条件下整烫定型30-35分钟，即生产出所需防皱防静电衬衫。
6.根据权利要求5所述的生产防皱防静电衬衫的方法，其特征在于：所述步骤（2）中的化学脱胶处理，主要是将黄麻纤维进行水浴或酸浴后，采用氢氧化钠溶液进行化学脱胶处理；所述生物酶脱胶处理，主要是采用果胶酶或漆酶或果胶酶与漆酶配成的复合酶对黄麻纤维进行生物酶脱胶处理；所述纤维膨胀处理，主要是采用复合膨胀助剂对黄麻纤维进行纤维膨胀处理，所述的复合膨胀助剂由渗透剂、膨化剂、溶解纤维内胶质成分的助剂组成，其质量比为1:1:1；所述机械细化处理，包括对黄麻纤维施加分梳力使其产生横向劈裂的机械梳理步骤和对黄麻纤维施加拉伸力使其产生纵向滑移的机械牵伸步骤。
7.根据权利要求5所述的生产防皱防静电衬衫的方法，其特征在于：所述步骤（4）中熔融粘合的温度为125-135℃，压力为110-125Pa，时间为8-15s。
8.根据权利要求5所述的生产防皱防静电衬衫的方法，其特征在于：所述步骤（7）中的无甲醛防皱整理液包括如下重量份组分：水性聚氨酯40-50份、双(3，5-二叔丁基-4-羟基)苄基膦酸单乙酯15-20份、壳聚糖2-5份、聚丙烯酸钠分散剂0.5-1.2份、水65-85份。
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