CN107106453A - 包含烟酰胺和伊洛马司他的皮肤增亮组合物 - Google Patents
包含烟酰胺和伊洛马司他的皮肤增亮组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN107106453A CN107106453A CN201580071523.8A CN201580071523A CN107106453A CN 107106453 A CN107106453 A CN 107106453A CN 201580071523 A CN201580071523 A CN 201580071523A CN 107106453 A CN107106453 A CN 107106453A
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- niacinamide
- galardin
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- A61K8/492—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid having condensed rings, e.g. indol
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
本发明属于个人护理组合物领域；特别是皮肤增亮组合物。仍然需要将环腺苷酸的降低与黑素细胞中黑色素含量降低相结合的组合物。已经发现烟酰胺与MMP抑制剂加拉定(galardin)的组合以协同方式降低黑素细胞中的黑色素含量。因此，本发明涉及一种组合物，其包含用于增亮皮肤的烟酰胺和加拉定的协同组合。因此，当将组合物在体内局部施用适当长的时间时，可以使用该组合物来增亮皮肤或减少老年斑或雀斑。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于个人护理组合物领域；特别是皮肤增亮组合物。
背景技术
大多数人关心其皮肤色素沉着的程度。例如，具有老年斑或雀斑的人可能希望这种色素斑点不太明显。其他人可能希望减轻由暴露于阳光引起的皮肤变暗或增亮其天然皮肤颜色。为了满足这种需要，已经进行了许多尝试来开发用于减少黑素细胞中色素产生的产品。然而，迄今为止已经确认的物质往往具有低疗效或不期望的副作用，例如毒性或皮肤刺激。因此，持续需要具有改进的总体有效性的新的化妆用皮肤增亮剂。
常规的皮肤增亮组合物是基于使用被认为控制黑色素分散或抑制酪氨酸酶的皮肤增亮剂。这些皮肤增亮剂包括烟酰胺、诸如壬二酸和曲酸的羧酸、植物提取物和氢醌等。作为维生素B3化合物的烟酰胺是在局部施用的组合物中广泛使用的皮肤增亮剂。
DE 10133196(Beiersdorf)公开了含有烟酸或其前体、衍生物或代谢物的局部组合物，用于改善皮肤状况和(1)治疗或预防干性皮肤、增强皮肤的屏障功能、用于治疗、护理和预防敏感皮肤和/或用于治疗和预防正常皮肤的生理体内平衡的负面变化的症状；(2)治疗或预防炎症性皮肤病、特应性湿疹、多形性光皮炎、银屑病、白癜风和敏感、瘙痒或刺激性皮肤；(3)治疗或预防异常脂质过氧化；(4)治疗或预防皮肤的异常的神经酰胺、脂质和能量代谢、异常的经皮水分流失、皮肤水合和水分含量降低和天然保湿因子含量改变；(5)治疗或预防细胞间通讯减少、细胞内DNA合成缺陷、DNA损伤、内源性DNA修复减少、金属蛋白酶和/或其他蛋白酶的活化或对相应的DNA修复机制的抑制和结缔组织组件的翻译后修饰异常；(6)治疗或预防皮肤透明质酸和葡萄糖氨基聚糖含量异常；和(7)治疗或预防头头皮屑及头皮和皮肤老化。
据认为，烟酰胺降低环腺苷酸(环状3'-5'-AMP)的有效浓度，环腺苷酸被认为充当介导各种激素包括参与黑色素分散的黑素细胞激活激素的作用的第二信使。环状3'-5'-AMP磷酸二酯酶是一种使环状3'-5'-AMP降解为腺苷-5'-单磷酸酯的酶。已经显示该酶的活性由烟酰胺激活。因此，烟酰胺被认为降低了环状3'-5'-AMP的有效浓度，从而降低了黑色素颗粒的分散。另外，已经显示烟酰胺可以减少黑色素从黑素细胞到角质形成细胞的转移。然而，已知烟酰胺对黑素细胞中的黑色素含量具有很小的直接影响或没有影响。
仍然需要将环腺苷酸降低与黑素细胞中黑色素含量降低相结合的组合物。
已经发现烟酰胺与MMP抑制剂加拉定(galardin)组合以协同方式降低黑素细胞中的黑色素含量。因此，本发明涉及一种组合物，其包含用于增亮皮肤的烟酰胺和加拉定的协同组合。因此，当将组合物在体内局部施用适当长的时间时，可以使用该组合物来增亮皮肤或减少老年斑或雀斑。
发明内容
因此，在第一方面，本发明提供一种皮肤增亮组合物，其包含有效量的烟酰胺和有效量的加拉定(galardin)。
在第二方面，本发明提供了根据本发明的组合物用于增亮皮肤的用途。
在第三方面，本发明提供了一种增亮人皮肤的方法，该方法包括将根据本发明的组合物施用到皮肤上的步骤。
通过阅读以下详细描述和所附权利要求，这些和其它方面、特征和优点对于本领域普通技术人员将变得显而易见。为了避免疑义，本发明的一个方面的任何特征可以用于本发明的任何其它方面。“包括”一词意在表示“包含”，而不一定是“由...组成”或“由...构成”。换句话说，列出的步骤或选项不需要是穷尽的。应当注意，在下面的描述中给出的示例旨在阐明本发明，并不意图将本发明限于这些示例本身。类似地，除非另有说明，所有百分数均为重量/重量百分数。除了在操作例和比较例中，或者另外明确地指出，本说明书中表示反应物质或反应条件的数量、物质的物理性质和/或用途的所有数字应被理解为由“约”修饰。以“从x到y”的格式表示的数值范围被理解为包括x和y。当针对特定特征以“从x到y”的格式描述多个优选范围时，可以理解组合不同端点的所有范围也是可以预期的。
具体实施方式
在本发明的第一方面，提供一种皮肤增亮组合物，所述组合物包含烟酰胺和加拉定(galardin)。
烟酰胺
烟酰胺也称为尼克酰胺和吡啶-3-甲酰胺，是维生素B3的活性水溶性形式。其对于辅酶NADH和NADPH是必不可少的，因此用于体内的超过200个酶反应，包括ATP的形成。
本发明的组合物包含有效量的烟酰胺，通常浓度为组合物重量的0.001至10％，优选至少0.01％，更优选至少0.1％，还更优选至少1％，甚至更优选至少2％，还更优选至少3％，或甚至至少4％；但优选不超过组合物重量的9％，更优选不超过8％，还更优选不超过7％，还更优选不超过6％，或甚至不超过5％。
加拉定
加拉定也称为GM6001或伊洛马司他，是具有以下结构的广谱基质金属蛋白酶抑制剂：
加拉定是可逆基质金属蛋白酶抑制剂的异羟肟酸类的成员。异羟肟酸基团的阴离子态与活性位点锌形成二齿络合物。
基质金属蛋白酶(MMP)在基质重塑中的作用是已知的，并且是从各种细胞分泌的，包括皮肤细胞，如黑素细胞、角质形成细胞和成纤维细胞。加拉定是一种广谱合成基质金属蛋白酶(MMP)抑制剂，对MMP-1、MMP-2、MMP-3、MMP-7、MMP-8、MMP-9、MMP-12、MMP-14、MMP-26具有很强的活性。20世纪90年代首次报道了其具有胶原蛋白类骨架，以促进结合MMP的活性位点和异羟肟酸盐结构(R-CO-NH-OH，其中R是有机残基)，该结构螯合位于MMP的催化结构域中的锌离子。据报道通过阻止原MMP转化为活性形式来调节MMP。
考虑到黑色素是通过氧化氨基酸酪氨酸随后进行聚合形成的一组色素，令人惊讶的是，加拉定也与烟酰胺一起在降低黑素细胞中黑色素的含量中起作用。另外，加拉定也似乎没有对酪氨酸酶的抑制起作用，酪氨酸酶是酪氨酸的氧化酶，并且是含铜蛋白质，但不是金属蛋白酶，如下文实施例中所证实的。
本发明突显了加拉定通过与烟酰胺组合以协同方式调节原代人黑素细胞中黑色素含量中的作用。
本发明的组合物包含有效量的加拉定，通常浓度为组合物重量的0.00001至10％，优选至少0.0001％，更优选至少0.001％，还更优选至少0.001％，甚至更优选至少0.1％，还更优选至少0.5％，或甚至至少1％；但优选为不超过组合物重量的8％，更优选为不超过5％，还更优选为不超过4％，甚至更优选为不超过3％，还更优选为不超过2％，甚至更优选为不超过1.5％。
其他成分
本发明的组合物还可以包含化妆学上可接受的媒介，其可以用作组合物中使用的皮肤增亮剂的稀释剂、分散剂和/或载体，以便当将组合物施用于皮肤时促进它们的分布。适用于本发明的化妆学上可接受的媒介可以是含水的、无水的或乳液；含水的或乳液，特别是油包水乳液或水包油乳液是最优选的。存在的水通常构成组合物的余量。优选地，水以组合物的5-99重量％、更优选20-80重量％、还更优选40-80重量％的浓度存在。
除了水之外，有机溶剂也可以用作本发明的组合物内的载体。
润肤剂也可以用作本发明组合物中的化妆学上可接受的载体。润肤剂通常为硅油和合成酯的形式。硅油可以是挥发性和非挥发性的。挥发性硅油优选选自含有3-9个、优选4-5个硅原子的环状或线性的聚二甲基硅氧烷。用作润肤剂材料的非挥发性硅油包括聚烷基硅氧烷、聚烷基芳基硅氧烷和聚醚硅氧烷共聚物。用于本发明的基本上不挥发的聚烷基硅氧烷包括例如聚二甲基硅氧烷。
可以使用的酯类润肤剂有：
a)具有10-20个碳原子的脂肪酸的烯基或烷基酯。其实例包括异花生醇新戊酸酯、异壬酸异壬酯、油醇肉豆蔻酸酯、油醇硬脂酸酯和油醇油酸酯；
b)醚酯，如乙氧基化脂肪醇的脂肪酸酯；
c)多元醇酯。乙二醇单脂肪酸酯和乙二醇二脂肪酸酯，二甘醇单脂肪酸酯和二甘醇二脂肪酸酯，聚乙二醇(200-6000)单脂肪酸酯和聚乙二醇(200-6000)二脂肪酸酯，丙二醇单脂肪酸酯和丙二醇二脂肪酸酯，聚丙二醇2000单油酸酯，聚丙二醇2000单硬脂酸酯，乙氧基化丙二醇单硬脂酸酯，甘油单脂肪酸酯和甘油二脂肪酸酯，聚甘油多脂肪酸酯，乙氧基化甘油单硬脂酸酯，1,3-丁二醇单硬脂酸酯，1,3-丁二醇二硬脂酸酯，聚氧乙烯多元醇脂肪酸酯，脱水山梨醇脂肪酸酯和聚氧乙烯脱水山梨醇脂肪酸酯，是令人满意的多元醇酯。
d)蜡酯、如蜂蜡、鲸蜡、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、硬脂酸硬脂酯和山嵛酸二十烷醇酯。
e)甾醇类酯，其实例是胆固醇脂肪酸酯。
润肤剂可以以组合物重量的0.1-50％、优选1-20％存在于组合物中。
在本发明的组合物中，也可以含有10-30个碳原子的脂肪酸作为化妆学上可接受的载体。这些脂肪酸的示例性实例是壬酸、月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、异硬脂酸、羟基硬脂酸、油酸、亚油酸、蓖麻油酸、花生酸、山嵛酸、芥酸及其混合物。
多元醇类的保湿剂也可以用作本发明组合物中的化妆学上可接受的载体。保湿剂有助于增加润肤剂的有效性、减少结垢、刺激积垢的去除并改善皮肤感觉。典型的多元醇包括：甘油，聚亚烷基二醇，更优选亚烷基多元醇及其衍生物，包括丙二醇、二丙二醇、聚丙二醇、聚乙二醇及其衍生物，山梨醇，羟丙基山梨醇，己二醇，1,3-丁二醇，1,2,6-己三醇，乙氧基化甘油，丙氧基化甘油及它们的混合物。为获得最佳效果，保湿剂优选为丙二醇或透明质酸钠。组合物中保湿剂的浓度可以在组合物重量的0.5-30％，优选1-15％的范围内。
增稠剂也可以用作本发明的组合物的化妆学上可接受的载体的一部分。典型的增稠剂包括交联的丙烯酸酯(例如Carbopol 982)、疏水改性的丙烯酸酯(例如Carbopol1382)、纤维素衍生物和天然树胶。有用的纤维素衍生物是羧甲基纤维素钠、羟丙基甲基纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素、乙基纤维素和羟甲基纤维素。适用于本发明的天然树胶包括瓜耳胶、黄原胶、菌核、角叉菜胶、果胶以及这些树胶的组合。组合物中增稠剂的浓度可以在0.0001-5重量％，通常为0.001-1重量％，最佳为0.01-0.5重量％的范围内。
总的来说，水、溶剂、硅氧烷、酯、脂肪酸、保湿剂和/或增稠剂将以组合物重量的1-99.9％、优选80-99％的量构成化妆学上可接受的载体。
表面活性剂也可以存在于本发明的组合物中。表面活性剂的总浓度范围为组合物重量的0.1-40％，优选1-20％，最佳为1-5％。表面活性剂可以选自阴离子、非离子、阳离子和两性活性物质。特别优选的非离子表面活性剂是C10-C20脂肪醇或酸疏水物用每摩尔疏水物2-100摩尔的环氧乙烷或环氧丙烷缩合的那些；用2-20摩尔环氧烷缩合的C2-C10烷基酚；乙二醇的单脂肪酸酯和二脂肪酸酯；脂肪酸单甘油酯；脱水山梨醇，单C8-C20脂肪酸和二C8-C20脂肪酸；嵌段共聚物(环氧乙烷/环氧丙烷)；和聚氧乙烯脱水山梨醇以及它们的组合。烷基聚糖苷和糖脂肪酰胺(例如甲基葡糖酰胺)也是合适的非离子表面活性剂。
优选的阴离子表面活性剂包括皂、烷基醚硫酸盐和烷基醚磺酸盐、烷基硫酸盐和烷基磺酸盐、烷基苯磺酸盐、烷基和二烷基磺基琥珀酸盐、C8-C20酰基羟乙磺酸盐、酰基谷氨酸盐，C8-C20烷基醚磷酸盐及它们的组合。
防晒剂包括通常用于阻挡紫外线光的那些材料。示例性化合物是PABA、肉桂酸酯和水杨酸酯的衍生物。例如，可以使用avobenzophenone(Parsol)、甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯和2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮(也称为氧苯酮)。甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯和2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮分别以商标Parsol MCX和二苯甲酮-3可商购获得。组合物中使用的防晒剂的确切量可以根据对太阳的紫外线辐射所需的防护程度而变化。也可以使用反射或散射太阳射线的添加剂。这些添加剂包括氧化物如氧化锌和二氧化钛。
本发明的组合物可以包括宽范围的其它可选组分。CTFA Cosmetic IngredientHandbook，第二版，1992其全部内容通过引用并入本文，描述了皮肤护理工业中通常使用的各种非限制性的化妆品和药物成分，其适用于本发明的组合物。
实例包括：抗氧化剂、粘合剂、生物添加剂、缓冲剂、着色剂、聚合物、收敛剂、香料、遮光剂、调理剂、去角质剂、pH调节剂、防腐剂、天然提取物、精油、皮肤感觉剂、皮肤舒缓剂和皮肤愈合剂。
当制备本发明的组合物时，通常将所需成分在约70℃至约80℃的温度和大气压下以不特定的顺序混合。
用于本发明组合物的包装可以是贴、瓶、管、滚球施用器、推进剂驱动的气溶胶装置、挤压容器或加盖罐。
在第二方面，本发明涉及根据本发明的组合物用于增亮皮肤的用途。
在第三方面，本发明涉及一种增亮人皮肤的方法，该方法包括将根据本发明的组合物施用到皮肤上的步骤。
现在将通过以下非限制性实施例来说明本发明。
实施例
实施例1：烟酰胺和加拉定对黑色素抑制作用的体外研究
材料
(i)原代人新生儿包皮黑素细胞、培养基254和人黑色素细胞生长添加成分-2(Life Technologies)
(ii)加拉定(R)-N4-羟基-N1-[(S)-2-(1H-吲哚-3-基)1-甲基氨基甲酰基-乙基]-2-异丁基-琥珀酰胺(Sigma-Aldrich)
(iii)烟酰胺(Sigma Aldrich)
(iv)己基间苯二酚(Sigma Aldrich)
(v)钙黄绿素-AM-钙黄绿素乙酰氧基甲酯(Sigma Aldrich)
(vi)DMSO-二甲基亚砜(Sigma Aldrich)
(vii)氢氧化钠(Merck Specialties Pvt.Ltd.)
(viii)HEPES-(4-(2-羟乙基)哌嗪-1-乙磺酸，N-(2-羟乙基)哌嗪-N'-(2-乙磺酸)(Sigma Aldrich)
(ix)NaCl-氯化钠(Fisher Scientific)
(x)NP40-Nonidet P 40(USB公司)
(i)PMSF-苯基甲磺酰氟(Sigma-Aldrich)
(xii)蛋白酶抑制剂混合物(Sigma-Aldrich)
(xiii)L-酪氨酸(Sigma-Aldrich)
方法
(i)细胞培养：
新生儿包皮原代人黑素细胞是从美国Life Technologies采购的。将细胞在补充有人黑素细胞生长添加成分-2的培养基254中生长，并在37℃下保持在含有5％CO2气氛的加湿培养箱中。根据制造商的说明进行细胞的保持和继代培养。第3-6代之间的细胞用于实验。
(ii)活性物质添加：
将细胞以5×104/孔的密度接种在黑素细胞生长培养基(MGM)中的24孔板中，并在37℃/5％CO2下温育24小时。将活性物质连同相关对照一起添加到细胞。活化处理后72小时，使用钙黄绿素法测定细胞活力，然后测量细胞黑色素含量(在下文中描述)。
(iii)细胞活力测定
简言之，移除废弃的培养基，并用0.2ml 1×PBS-Ca-Mg溶液洗涤细胞一次。将在PBS缓冲液中的新鲜1μM钙黄绿素-AM加入到每个孔中。在37℃下在CO2培养箱中温育板30分钟。然后在TECAN M1000平板读数器中测定钙黄绿素荧光(在490nm下激发，并在520nm下发射)。
(iv)黑色素含量测定：
在钙黄绿素测定后，用PBS(1×)冲洗培养物，并在摇床培养箱中使用NaOH/DMSO混合物在60℃下裂解1小时。在Tecan平板读数器(405nm滤光器)中测量黑色素含量，校正细胞数并表示为抑制％。
(v)体外人酪氨酸酶活性测定：
原代人黑素细胞裂解物用作酪氨酸酶的来源。在加入酪氨酸/DOPA底物混合物之前，将人黑素细胞裂解物和测试活性物质(不同浓度)一起温育15分钟。然后将测定板在37℃下温育～14-16小时。在405nm处测量光密度并计算抑制％。
结果
表I
表II
结论
上表(表I)突出显示了通过将加拉定与烟酰胺组合获得的黑素细胞中黑色素含量的协同降低。表I中的数据显示，加拉定本身不会降低(1μM)或不会适度降低(10μM)原代人黑素细胞中的黑色素含量。然而，当以不同比例将加拉定和烟酰胺组合在一起时，在每种活性物质的特定测试浓度下获得黑色素含量的协同降低。
表II进一步显示，黑色素含量的这种降低不是通过直接调节酪氨酸酶的活性。烟酰胺也观察到类似的结果。
Claims (7)
1.一种皮肤增亮组合物，其包含：
a)有效量的烟酰胺；和
b)有效量的加拉定。
2.根据权利要求1所述的皮肤增亮组合物，其中所述组合物包含0.00001-10重量％的加拉定。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的皮肤增亮组合物，其中所述组合物包含0.001-10重量％的烟酰胺。
4.根据权利要求1-3中任一项所述的皮肤增亮组合物，其还包含皮肤增亮剂。
5.根据权利要求1-4中任一项所述的皮肤增亮组合物，其为局部组合物形式。
6.根据权利要求1-5中任一项所述的组合物用于增亮皮肤的用途。
7.一种增亮人的皮肤的方法，所述方法包括将根据权利要求1-5中任一项所述的组合物施用于所述皮肤的步骤。
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| PCT/EP2015/078975 WO2016107720A1 (en) | 2014-12-30 | 2015-12-08 | A skin lightening composition comprising niacinamide and ilomastat |
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| CN111450109A (zh) * | 2020-05-06 | 2020-07-28 | 武汉大学 | 环腺苷酸及其衍生物在抗ev71病毒中的应用 |
| CN114096233A (zh) * | 2019-07-12 | 2022-02-25 | 联合利华知识产权控股有限公司 | 生物能量的组合和使用其的方法 |
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| CN110099672B (zh) * | 2016-12-21 | 2022-05-24 | 联合利华知识产权控股有限公司 | 具有氨基酸和烟酰胺化合物的局部皮肤增亮添加剂和组合物 |
| WO2023119230A1 (en) | 2021-12-22 | 2023-06-29 | L'oreal | Coagulation pathway and nicotinamide-adenine dinucleotide pathway modulating compositions and methods of their use |
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| EP1359897A2 (en) * | 2000-06-29 | 2003-11-12 | Quick Med Technologies, Inc. | Cosmetic composition and method for reducing or preventing wrinkling |
| US20100158842A1 (en) * | 2008-10-09 | 2010-06-24 | Spectrum Dynamics Llc | Natural skin whitener: 4-hydroxy-oxindole-3-acetic acid |
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| CN114096233A (zh) * | 2019-07-12 | 2022-02-25 | 联合利华知识产权控股有限公司 | 生物能量的组合和使用其的方法 |
| CN111450109A (zh) * | 2020-05-06 | 2020-07-28 | 武汉大学 | 环腺苷酸及其衍生物在抗ev71病毒中的应用 |
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| MX2017008590A (es) | 2017-10-20 |
| MX365558B (es) | 2019-06-07 |
| CN107106453B (zh) | 2023-04-04 |
| EP3240526A1 (en) | 2017-11-08 |
| US20180000719A1 (en) | 2018-01-04 |
| WO2016107720A1 (en) | 2016-07-07 |
| EA032574B1 (ru) | 2019-06-28 |
| CA2971907A1 (en) | 2016-07-07 |
| PH12017501200A1 (en) | 2017-10-18 |
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| CA2971907C (en) | 2023-08-15 |
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