CN106758155A - 一种衬衫的阻燃透气型免烫整理液及其整理方法 - Google Patents

一种衬衫的阻燃透气型免烫整理液及其整理方法 Download PDF

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CN106758155A
CN106758155A CN201611191152.XA CN201611191152A CN106758155A CN 106758155 A CN106758155 A CN 106758155A CN 201611191152 A CN201611191152 A CN 201611191152A CN 106758155 A CN106758155 A CN 106758155A
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shirt
temperature
drying
pressing
stirring
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曹群
王素琴
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Fuyang Leopard Head Clothing Technology Co Ltd
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Fuyang Leopard Head Clothing Technology Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种衬衫的阻燃透气型免烫整理液及整理方法，由下列原料制备制成：蒙脱土、三甲基乙氧基硅烷、乳化剂T05、聚醋酸乙烯酯乳液、十二烷基硫酸钠、硅溶胶、聚乙二醇1000、乙二醇硬脂酸酯、丁烷四酸、柠檬酸胺、三乙醇胺、苹果酸、次磷酸钠、硼酸、二苯乙烯二璜酸衍生物2‑2.5、氨基聚硅氧烷、壳聚糖、N，N‑二甲基甲酰胺、乳化剂NPE108、三羟甲基乙烯脲、聚甲基硅氧烷硅酮体、羟基硅油、马来酸酐适量、去离子水适量；本发明提供的整理液具有优异的导湿、排汗、透气性能，依附能力强，多次洗涤，性能持久，柔软不黏身，穿着舒适，自然亲肤，温和不刺激，经整理后的成衣可机洗，无需熨烫，防皱、耐洗性能好，不易损坏，外观平整，穿着舒适。

Description

一种衬衫的阻燃透气型免烫整理液及其整理方法
技术领域
本发明涉及成衣功能性整理技术领域，尤其涉及一种衬衫的阻燃透气型免烫整理液及其整理方法。
背景技术
棉质成衣以其穿着舒适、天然环保等特点深受人们的喜爱，但由于在穿着和洗涤过程中存在容易起皱、不易打理的性能缺陷，给人们的生活带来了诸多不便。因此穿着舒适、平挺有形、无需熨烫、方便打理的抗皱成衣应用前景十分广阔。而目前使用最广泛的N-羟甲基类的抗皱整理剂，会出现甲醛、pH值超标以及残留物质引起皮肤刺痒的问题，造成广大消费者对抗皱成衣安全性能的心理恐慌，同时由于传统抗皱处理对原有面料性能的改变，导致丧失了棉质成衣原有的吸水、导湿的舒适性能，因此生产出满足市场大众需求的成衣具有十分重要的意义。
通过专利检索，专利号为201010300167.1的对比专利，其公开了一种全棉衬衫的免烫处理方法，步骤依次是树脂吸收→预烘→压烫→焙烘→冷却；树脂吸收步骤是将主要组分改性二羟基甲基二羟基乙烯脲或者改性烷基二羟基乙烯脲的工作液施加到衬衫上，生产出具有抗皱免烫的全棉衬衫，虽然树脂经过改性处理，但是由于改性过程的可逆性，在生产、储运以及穿着使用过程中容易间接产生甲醛，通过最后的冷却环节并不能完全将工作液中残留物质清除干净，存在甲醛、pH值含量不稳定、穿着有刺激性的安全及环保隐患。
专利号为201410639422.3的对比专利2，其公开了一种衬衫的无甲醛抗菌免烫整理液及整理方法，其采用成衣预洗-烘干-整理液处理-定湿烘干-压烫-焙烘-静态平衡-成衣复洗-烘干的工艺流程对衬衫进行处理，此发明中前后两次烘干生产环节，采用的均是40-60℃的低温烘干温度，同时静态平衡生产环节所需时间为“6-12h”，用时长，生产效率低，不利于工业化、流水化、批量化、规模化生产，经济及社会效益低；在成衣预洗和成衣复洗两次水洗环节中，存在水资源消耗大以及环保排放的问题，不利于节能减排。同时多次洗涤容易在衬衫洗涤数量较多时出现衣服相互缠绕、打结而导致衣服严重褶皱、外观较差的问题，影响抗皱级别及产品品质，而数量较少时设备利用率低，规模效益差。针对现有技术存在的问题和缺陷，本发明提供一种环保免烫整理液及其成衣整理方法，使得生产出来的成衣在保持原有抗皱性能的基础上，达到阻燃、免烫、透气的性能，并且安全、健康、环保，容易实现工业化、流水化、批量化和规模化，达到巨大的经济效益和社会效益。
发明内容
本发明目的就是为了弥补已有技术的缺陷，提供一种衬衫的阻燃透气型免烫整理液及其整理方法。
本发明是通过以下技术方案实现的：
一种衬衫的阻燃透气型免烫整理液，由下列重量份的原料制备制成：蒙脱土2.2-2.5、三甲基乙氧基硅烷0.6-0.7、乳化剂T05 0.21-0.25、聚醋酸乙烯酯乳液3.6-3.8、十二烷基硫酸钠0.12-0.15、硅溶胶3.4-3.7、聚乙二醇1000 0.3-0.5、乙二醇硬脂酸酯0.4-0.5、丁烷四酸24-26、柠檬酸胺16-18、三乙醇胺2.5-2.7、苹果酸0.9-1.2、次磷酸钠0.8-1、硼酸0.27-0.3、二苯乙烯二璜酸衍生物2-2.5、氨基聚硅氧烷1.1-1.6、壳聚糖4.5-5、N，N-二甲基甲酰胺68-80、乳化剂NPE108 0.33-0.4、三羟甲基乙烯脲2.1-2.4、聚甲基硅氧烷硅酮体2.8-3、羟基硅油0.6-0.8、马来酸酐适量、去离子水适量。
所述一种衬衫的阻燃透气型免烫整理液，由下列具体步骤制备制成：
（1）将无水乙醇和去离子水按照摩尔比10.5:0.56的比例混合置于加热器上搅拌，待温度升高至60℃时加入蒙脱土，其中蒙脱土相对体系的质量为1.5-3%，恒温搅拌30-50min后冷却至室温，然后加入三甲基乙氧基硅烷溶液继续搅拌10-15min后静置过夜，最后加入乳化剂T05搅拌溶解后得蒙脱土分散液备用；将聚醋酸乙烯酯乳液加到5-7倍量的去离子水中，升高温度至40℃时加入十二烷基硫酸钠和硅溶胶，搅拌均匀后加入上述蒙脱土分散液和聚乙二醇1000，继续乳化分散40-60min，冷却至室温备用；
（2）将壳聚糖和马来酸酐按照质量比1：1.8的比例混合加到N，N-二甲基甲酰胺中，在水浴温度100-120℃下搅拌反应7-9h，反应结束后用去离子水洗涤呈中性后烘干备用；然后将备用的固体物和去离子水混合置于带有搅拌装置的容器中，搅拌至完全溶解后加入步骤（1）制备的产物，搅拌均匀后调节体系pH值至7-8备用；
（3）将剩余的其余原料加到去离子水中，按照总原料与去离子水按照质量比为1：1.5混合搅拌均匀，再加入步骤（2）制备的产物混合搅拌均匀得整理液。
所述一种衬衫成衣的免烫整理方法，由以下具体步骤制备制成：
（1）面料优选：优选条干均匀，长短一致的长绒棉，采用紧密纺纱工艺织造，并运用液氨+丝光技术对织得的面料进行后整理，获得色泽亮丽、手感舒适，强力值高的高品质面料；
（2）立体裁剪：采用符合人体功能学的立体裁剪技术，将面料裁剪成独立衣片；
（3）嵌条缝制：运用嵌条缝制技术，将热熔性胶条或衬布缝制在缝线处，再经过压烫工艺对其进行高温压烫，获得缝线平挺的半成品；
（4）整理液处理：采用逐段作业的方式在反应室完成整理液吸收，前段采用悬挂放置的方式将衬衫用衣架悬挂在自动传输的流转带上，通过气雾的方式使工作液附着到成衣上，同时通过循环系统将飘落的整理液收集进行循环利用；后段为深度吸收室，使成衣面料纤维带液率控制在50-90%；
（5）预烘调湿：采用红外立体烘干技术，将悬挂放置的衬衫进行预烘调湿，预烘温度80-105℃，预烘时间80-110s，整体湿度控制在20-45%；
（6）压烫塑形：采用立体高温压烫机，对衬衫不同身片进行独立压烫，压烫温度为140-160℃，压烫压力为3-13kg/cm2，压烫时间12-30s；
（7）焙烘定型：焙烘温度为165-185℃、焙烘时间为30-120s；
（8）动态冷却：采用立体悬挂、自动传输的动态方式，在温度为17-20℃，湿度为60-65%的恒温恒湿密封冷却房中，冷却10-30min；
（9）手感调节：采用雾化喷施的技术对冷却后的衬衫进行手感调节，带液率控制在55-80%；
（10）烘燥冷却：将进行手感调节后的衬衫进行翻滚式烘箱烘燥，烘干温度设定在90-105℃，烘干冷却时间为15-30min。
本发明的优点是：壳聚糖作为自然界唯一带正电荷的天然生物高分子多糖，由于天然无毒可降解、良好的生物相容性、抗菌性作为优良的染色促染剂、防缩整理剂、抗菌剂等被广泛用于纺织加工业，壳聚糖的表面含有大量的羟基和氨基基团，生物活性高，有利于提高整理剂的防缩抗皱效果，由于壳聚糖的不溶水性，本发明采用二甲基甲酰胺作为反应介质，对壳聚糖进行N-马来酰化改性，提高水溶性，蒙脱土是一种层状硅酸盐，具有良好的分散性、吸附性、抗冲击性、和耐火阻燃性能，利用三甲基乙氧基硅烷水解形成溶胶使蒙脱土表面接枝氨基，然后和硅溶胶混合发生物理作用，形成有机无机杂化涂层，通过在织物表面形成透明、附着力良好的三维网状薄膜，并且引入硅、氨基、蒙脱土等无机阻燃元素实现织物的阻燃，再将其加到改性的壳聚糖溶胶中形成杂化溶胶，和多元羧酸复配物等在复合催化剂的作用下，制成的整理液能够与纤维素的羟基反应，将纤维素分子连接起来，形成酯交联的三维网络，赋予织物的抗皱性、免烫性、热稳定性、透气性，提高了织物的手感、增强了织物的强力，耐洗性和防水性。
此外本发明提供的衬衫成衣整理方法避免了传统烘箱烘干方式中不同衣片间出现的寒潮不均匀问题，减少传统烘干烘燥所带来的衣服缠绕、堆积产生的褶皱而引起衬衫外观较差的问题，能够对衬衫中获得巨大能量的纤维分子进行急速冷却，使其获得的抗皱性能得到迅速固化，达到优异的免烫级别，在避免传统水洗方式产生的资源浪费和环保排放问题的同时，处理后的衬衫手感非常的柔软，穿着舒适自然，经检测经过本专利生产的成衣，在水洗前吸水性小于等于8s，水洗50次后吸水性在25s以内，同时其甲醛含量达到未检出的水平，pH值、异味及可分解致癌芳香胺染料等基本安全性能指标达到国家标准要求，做到环保、安全、无残留，并且外观平整度、褶裥外观、接缝外观高出国家标准的0.5-1级。同时实现工业化、流水化、批量化、规模化的生产，达到较好的经济及社会效益。
本发明提供的整理液具有优异的导湿、排汗、透气性能，依附能力强，多次洗涤，性能持久，柔软不黏身，穿着舒适，自然亲肤，温和不刺激，经整理后的成衣可机洗，无需熨烫，防皱、耐洗性能好，不易损坏，外观平整，穿着舒适。
具体实施方式
一种衬衫的阻燃透气型免烫整理液，由下列重量份（公斤）的原料制备制成：蒙脱土2.2、三甲基乙氧基硅烷0.6、乳化剂T05 0.21、聚醋酸乙烯酯乳液3.6、十二烷基硫酸钠0.12、硅溶胶3.4、聚乙二醇1000 0.3、乙二醇硬脂酸酯0.4、丁烷四酸24、柠檬酸胺16、三乙醇胺2.5、苹果酸0.9、次磷酸钠0.8、硼酸0.27、二苯乙烯二璜酸衍生物2、氨基聚硅氧烷1.1、壳聚糖4.5、N，N二甲基甲酰胺68、乳化剂NPE1080.33、三羟甲基乙烯脲2.1、聚甲基硅氧烷硅酮体2.8、羟基硅油0.6、马来酸酐适量、去离子水适量。
所述一种衬衫的阻燃透气型免烫整理液，由下列具体步骤制备制成：
（1）将无水乙醇和去离子水按照摩尔比10.5:0.56的比例混合置于加热器上搅拌，待温度升高至60℃时加入蒙脱土，其中蒙脱土相对体系的质量为1.5%，恒温搅拌30min后冷却至室温，然后加入三甲基乙氧基硅烷溶液继续搅拌10min后静置过夜，最后加入乳化剂T05搅拌溶解后得蒙脱土分散液备用；将聚醋酸乙烯酯乳液加到5倍量的去离子水中，升高温度至40℃时加入十二烷基硫酸钠和硅溶胶，搅拌均匀后加入上述蒙脱土分散液和聚乙二醇1000，继续乳化分散40min，冷却至室温备用；
（2）将壳聚糖和马来酸酐按照质量比1：1.8的比例混合加到N，N二甲基甲酰胺中，在水浴温度100℃下搅拌反应7h，反应结束后用去离子水洗涤呈中性后烘干备用；然后将备用的固体物和去离子水混合置于带有搅拌装置的容器中，搅拌至完全溶解后加入步骤（1）制备的产物，搅拌均匀后调节体系pH值至7备用；
（3）将剩余的其余原料加到去离子水中，按照总原料与去离子水按照质量比为1：1.5混合搅拌均匀，再加入步骤（2）制备的产物混合搅拌均匀得整理液。
实施案例1：以80支双斜纹衬衫生产为例:
（1）面料优选：选择经过液氨+丝光技术处理过的长绒棉紧密纺80支双斜纹面料；
（2）立体裁剪：采用立体裁剪技术将面料裁剪成独立衣片；
（3）嵌条缝制：采用针距为三公分16针的嵌条包缝技术对衣片进行缝制，得到半成品衬衫；
（4）整理液处理：采用逐段作业的方式在反应室完成整理液吸收，使成衣面料纤维带液率控制在50%；
（5）预烘调湿：采用红外立体烘干技术，将悬挂放置的衬衫进行预烘调湿，预烘温度105℃，预烘时间90s，使衬衫含潮率为45%；
（6）压烫塑形：采用立体高温压烫机，压烫温度为160℃，压烫压力为13kg/cm2，压烫时间30s；
（7）焙烘定型：焙烘温度为185℃、焙烘时间为50s；
（8）动态冷却：采用立体悬挂、自动传输的动态方式，在温度为17℃，湿度为65%的恒温恒湿密封冷却房中，冷却30min；
（9）手感调节：采用雾化喷施的技术对冷却后的衬衫进行手感调节，带液率控制在80%；
（10）烘燥冷却：将进行手感调节后的衬衫进行翻滚式烘箱烘燥，烘干温度设定在105℃，烘干冷却时间为30min。
对实施案例1生产完成的衬衫其免烫性能的检测指标和国家标准GB/T 18863-2002《免烫纺织品》的对比结果以及按照AATCC 79测试水洗前后的吸水性能如表1所示。
实施案例2：以80支双平纹衬衫生产为例：
（1）面料优选：选择经过液氨+丝光技术处理过的长绒棉紧密纺80支双平纹面料；
（2）立体裁剪：采用立体裁剪技术将面料裁剪成独立衣片；
（3）嵌条缝制：采用针距为三公分17针的嵌条包缝技术对衣片进行缝制，得到半成品衬衫；
（4）整理液处理：采用逐段作业的方式在反应室完成整理液吸收，使成衣面料纤维带液率控制在50%；
（5）预烘调湿：采用红外立体烘干技术，将悬挂放置的衬衫进行预烘调湿，预烘温度100℃，预烘时间80s，使衬衫含潮率为42%；
（6）压烫塑形：采用立体高温压烫机，压烫温度为155℃，压烫压力为10kg/cm2，压烫时间26s；
（7）焙烘定型：焙烘温度为180℃、焙烘时间为30s；
（8）动态冷却：采用立体悬挂、自动传输的动态方式，在温度为17℃，湿度为65%的恒温恒湿密封冷却房中，冷却25min；
（9）手感调节：采用雾化喷施的技术对冷却后的衬衫进行手感调节，带液率控制在75%；
（10）烘燥冷却：将进行手感调节后的衬衫进行翻滚式烘箱烘燥，烘干温度设定在100℃，烘干冷却时间为25min。
对实施案例2生产完成的衬衫其免烫性能的检测指标和国家标准GB/T 18863-2002《免烫纺织品》的对比结果以及按照AATCC 79测试水洗前后的吸水性能如表1所示。
实施案例3：以100支双斜纹衬衫生产为例：
（1）面料优选：选择经过液氨+丝光技术处理过的长绒棉紧密纺100支双斜纹面料；
（2）立体裁剪：采用立体裁剪技术将面料裁剪成独立衣片；
（3）嵌条缝制：采用针距为三公分19针的嵌条包缝技术对衣片进行缝制，得到半成品衬衫；
（4）整理液处理：采用逐段作业的方式在反应室完成整理液吸收，使成衣面料纤维带液率控制在50%；
（5）预烘调湿：采用红外立体烘干技术，将悬挂放置的衬衫进行预烘调湿，预烘温度95℃，预烘时间95s，使衬衫含潮率为35%；
（6）压烫塑形：采用立体高温压烫机，压烫温度为150℃，压烫压力为5kg/cm2，压烫时间22s；
（7）焙烘定型：焙烘温度为170℃、焙烘时间为90s；
（8）动态冷却：采用立体悬挂、自动传输的动态方式，在温度为17℃，湿度为65%的恒温恒湿密封冷却房中，冷却15min；
（9）手感调节：采用雾化喷施的技术对冷却后的衬衫进行手感调节，带液率控制在65%；
（10）烘燥冷却：将进行手感调节后的衬衫进行翻滚式烘箱烘燥，烘干温度设定在95℃，烘干冷却时间为20min。
对实施案例3生产完成的衬衫其免烫性能的检测指标和国家标准GB/T 18863-2002《免烫纺织品》的对比结果以及按照AATCC 79测试水洗前后的吸水性能如表1所示。
实施案例4：以120支双斜纹衬衫生产为例：
（1）面料优选：选择经过液氨+丝光技术处理过的长绒棉紧密纺120支双斜纹面料；
（2）立体裁剪：采用立体裁剪技术将面料裁剪成独立衣片；
（3）嵌条缝制：采用针距为三公分21针的嵌条包缝技术对衣片进行缝制，得到半成品衬衫；
（4）整理液处理：采用逐段作业的方式在反应室完成整理液吸收，使成衣面料纤维带液率控制在50%；
（5）预烘调湿：采用红外立体烘干技术，将悬挂放置的衬衫进行预烘调湿，预烘温度80℃，预烘时间110s，使衬衫含潮率为20%；
（6）压烫塑形：采用立体高温压烫机，压烫温度为140℃，压烫压力为3kg/cm2，压烫时间12s；
（7）焙烘定型：焙烘温度为165℃、焙烘时间为120s；
（8）动态冷却：采用立体悬挂、自动传输的动态方式，在温度为17℃，湿度为65%的恒温恒湿密封冷却房中，冷却10min；
（9）手感调节：采用雾化喷施的技术对冷却后的衬衫进行手感调节，带液率控制在55%；
（10）烘燥冷却：将进行手感调节后的衬衫进行翻滚式烘箱烘燥，烘干温度设定在90℃，烘干冷却时间为15min。
对实施案例4生产完成的衬衫其免烫性能的检测指标和国家标准GB/T 18863-2002《免烫纺织品》的对比结果以及按照AATCC 79测试水洗前后的吸水性能如表1所示。
表1 实施案例产品性能测试指标和国家标准对比表
测试项目 国家标准 实施案例1 实施案例2 实施案例3 实施案例4
外观平整度 3.5 4 4 4 4
接缝外观 3 4 4 4 4
褶裥外观 3 4 4 4 4
甲醛含量 ≤75 未检出 未检出 未检出 未检出
水洗前吸水性 - 8 7 6 6
50次水洗后吸水性 - 24 22 18 15

Claims (3)

1.一种衬衫的阻燃透气型免烫整理液，其特征在于，由下列重量份的原料制备制成：蒙脱土2.2-2.5、三甲基乙氧基硅烷0.6-0.7、乳化剂T05 0.21-0.25、聚醋酸乙烯酯乳液3.6-3.8、十二烷基硫酸钠0.12-0.15、硅溶胶3.4-3.7、聚乙二醇1000 0.3-0.5、乙二醇硬脂酸酯0.4-0.5、丁烷四酸24-26、柠檬酸胺16-18、三乙醇胺2.5-2.7、苹果酸0.9-1.2、次磷酸钠0.8-1、硼酸0.27-0.3、二苯乙烯二璜酸衍生物2-2.5、氨基聚硅氧烷1.1-1.6、壳聚糖4.5-5、N，N-二甲基甲酰胺68-80、乳化剂NPE108 0.33-0.4、三羟甲基乙烯脲2.1-2.4、聚甲基硅氧烷硅酮体2.8-3、羟基硅油0.6-0.8、马来酸酐适量、去离子水适量。
2.根据权利要求1所述一种衬衫的阻燃透气型免烫整理液，其特征在于，由下列具体步骤制备制成：
（1）将无水乙醇和去离子水按照摩尔比10.5:0.56的比例混合置于加热器上搅拌，待温度升高至60℃时加入蒙脱土，其中蒙脱土相对体系的质量为1.5-3%，恒温搅拌30-50min后冷却至室温，然后加入三甲基乙氧基硅烷溶液继续搅拌10-15min后静置过夜，最后加入乳化剂T05搅拌溶解后得蒙脱土分散液备用；将聚醋酸乙烯酯乳液加到5-7倍量的去离子水中，升高温度至40℃时加入十二烷基硫酸钠和硅溶胶，搅拌均匀后加入上述蒙脱土分散液和聚乙二醇1000，继续乳化分散40-60min，冷却至室温备用；
（2）将壳聚糖和马来酸酐按照质量比1：1.8的比例混合加到N，N-二甲基甲酰胺中，在水浴温度100-120℃下搅拌反应7-9h，反应结束后用去离子水洗涤呈中性后烘干备用；然后将备用的固体物和去离子水混合置于带有搅拌装置的容器中，搅拌至完全溶解后加入步骤（1）制备的产物，搅拌均匀后调节体系pH值至7-8备用；
（3）将剩余的其余原料加到去离子水中，按照总原料与去离子水按照质量比为1：1.5混合搅拌均匀，再加入步骤（2）制备的产物混合搅拌均匀得整理液。
3.一种衬衫成衣的免烫整理方法，其特征在于，由以下具体步骤制备制成：
（1）面料优选：优选条干均匀，长短一致的长绒棉，采用紧密纺纱工艺织造，并运用液氨+丝光技术对织得的面料进行后整理，获得色泽亮丽、手感舒适，强力值高的高品质面料；
（2）立体裁剪：采用符合人体功能学的立体裁剪技术，将面料裁剪成独立衣片；
（3）嵌条缝制：运用嵌条缝制技术，将热熔性胶条或衬布缝制在缝线处，再经过压烫工艺对其进行高温压烫，获得缝线平挺的半成品；
（4）整理液处理：采用逐段作业的方式在反应室完成整理液吸收，前段采用悬挂放置的方式将衬衫用衣架悬挂在自动传输的流转带上，通过气雾的方式使工作液附着到成衣上，同时通过循环系统将飘落的整理液收集进行循环利用；后段为深度吸收室，使成衣面料纤维带液率控制在50-90%；
（5）预烘调湿：采用红外立体烘干技术，将悬挂放置的衬衫进行预烘调湿，预烘温度80-105℃，预烘时间80-110s，整体湿度控制在20-45%；
（6）压烫塑形：采用立体高温压烫机，对衬衫不同身片进行独立压烫，压烫温度为140-160℃，压烫压力为3-13kg/cm2，压烫时间12-30s；
（7）焙烘定型：焙烘温度为165-185℃、焙烘时间为30-120s；
（8）动态冷却：采用立体悬挂、自动传输的动态方式，在温度为17-20℃，湿度为60-65%的恒温恒湿密封冷却房中，冷却10-30min；
（9）手感调节：采用雾化喷施的技术对冷却后的衬衫进行手感调节，带液率控制在55-80%；
（10）烘燥冷却：将进行手感调节后的衬衫进行翻滚式烘箱烘燥，烘干温度设定在90-105℃，烘干冷却时间为15-30min。
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