CN106120049A - The Yarn spinning method of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn - Google Patents

The Yarn spinning method of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn Download PDF

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Publication number
CN106120049A
CN106120049A CN201610632296.8A CN201610632296A CN106120049A CN 106120049 A CN106120049 A CN 106120049A CN 201610632296 A CN201610632296 A CN 201610632296A CN 106120049 A CN106120049 A CN 106120049A
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China
Prior art keywords
yarn
tencel
coconut husk
speed
fiber
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CN201610632296.8A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
高山
高一山
严以登
刘松
朱黎明
陈玉平
刘莹莹
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JIANGSU YUEDA TEXTILE Corp (GROUP)
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JIANGSU YUEDA TEXTILE Corp (GROUP)
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Priority to CN201610632296.8A priority Critical patent/CN106120049A/en
Publication of CN106120049A publication Critical patent/CN106120049A/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/445Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2101/00Inorganic fibres
    • D10B2101/10Inorganic fibres based on non-oxides other than metals
    • D10B2101/12Carbon; Pitch
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions

Abstract

The present patent application is the divisional application of Chinese patent application " 201510029118.1 ".The Yarn spinning method of a kind of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn of the application, a, fore-spinning require to include grabs cotton Beater Speed 800 ± 80r/min;Kirschner beater speed 380 ± 40r/min;The Beater Speed of lapper is 550 ± 50r/min;The doffer speed of white coconut husk Carbon fibe is 18 ± 2m/min, and spacing between cylinder and doffer is 19 ± 1 English silks;The doffer speed of tencel fiber is 21 ± 2m/min, and spacing between cylinder and doffer is 19 ± 1 English silks;Quantification of 21~24g/5m, the drafting multiple scope of drafting tension is 6~8 times;The technological requirement of rove is: rove designs quantification of 4.8 ± 4g/10m, and roving twist factor is set as 88, and total draft multiple is 8.28 ± 1 times, and first break draft multiple is 1.35 ± 0.3 times, flier speed 900 ± 10r/min, roller gauge 10mm × 28mm × 41mm etc.;B, spinning process require that twist factor is 368;C, winding process require speed 1000 ± 0m/min.

Description

The Yarn spinning method of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn
The application be Application No. " 201510029118.1 ", filing date " on 01 20th, 2015 " entitled " white Coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton shirt fabric and method for weaving thereof " the divisional application of Chinese invention application.
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, the Yarn spinning method of a kind of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn.
Background technology
In prior art, white coconut husk Carbon fibe has superpower absorption and moisture absorbing, and has releasing beneficial in human body Negative oxygen ion and the effect of far infrared can be radiated.But, white coconut husk Carbon fibe and tencel fiber occur when spinning Yarn strength is low, spinning twines the problems such as roller.And have dyed yarn and discolor or mutual staining between the yarn of different colours Problem.When white coconut husk Carbon fibe is weaved, when using existing technique, the above-mentioned functions of himself can be lost, and loses Its proper sense.
Summary of the invention
In order to solve the above-mentioned problems in the prior art, the present invention proposes a kind of new white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton Shirt fabric and method for weaving thereof, specific as follows:
A kind of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn, its raw material choice method:
Tencel fiber LF: length 37.13mm, fineness 1.35dtex, strongly: 4.86cN/cm, regain: 9.62%;
White coconut husk Carbon fibe: length 37.31mm, fineness 1.60dtex, regain: 9.88%;
Cotton fiber index request: average rank 3.0, principal length 29mm, fineness 5900Nm, mic value 3.9, short fiber content 7.3%, percentage of impurity 1.1%, regain 7.6%.
A kind of Yarn spinning method of above-mentioned white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn, technological requirement includes:
A, fore-spinning method:
(a-1) scutching cotton operation
Regain according to white coconut husk Carbon fibe and the size of oil content, before feeding intake, 6~8h to fiber spray water;
In opening and cleaning step, use a striking point, grab cotton Beater Speed 800 ± 80r/min (preferably 800r/ min);FA106 kirschner beater speed 380 ± 40r/min (preferably 380r/min);A076E lapper Beater Speed is 550 ± 50r/min (preferably 550r/min)
(a-2) carding step
In spinning process, the doffer speed of white coconut husk Carbon fibe is 18 ± 2m/min (preferably 18m/min), cylinder and road Spacing between husband is 19 ± 1 English silks (preferably 19 English silks);
The doffer speed of tencel fiber is 21 ± 2m/min (preferably 21m/min), and spacing between cylinder and doffer is 19 ± 1 English silk (preferably 19 English silk);
(a-3) mixing in doubling step
Take quantification of 21-24g/5m in technique, the drafting multiple scope of drafting tension is 6-8;
Controlling ambient temperature and humidity, temperature range is 23-28 DEG C, and humidity range is 50%-65%;Use coating to prevent quiet simultaneously Electric treatment roller;
(a-4) Roving Frames
The technological parameter of rove requires: rove designs quantification of 4.8 ± 4g/10m (preferably 4.8g/10m), and rove is twisted with the fingers Coefficient is set as 88, and total draft multiple is 8.28 ± 1 times (preferably 8.28 times), first break draft multiple be 1.35 ± 0.3 times (preferably It is 1.35), flier speed 900 ± 10r/min (preferably 900r/min), roller gauge 10mm × 28mm × 41mm.
B, spinning process method require:
The selection UDR4/0 type specific alloy high-carbon steel wire ring of wire loop;
Control the temperature 32 DEG C of environment well, humidity about 62%;
Twist factor is increased to 368.
Other technological parameter requires: roller gauge 18 × 38, back zone drafting multiple 1.24 times, rings model PG1 4254, wire loop model udr1/0, nip gauge 3.5mm, yarn twist factor 368, spun yarn front roller speed 230r/min.
C, winding process technology
Winder speed 1000 ± 50m/min (preferably 1000m/min).
A kind of colouring method of above-mentioned white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn, technological requirement includes:
A, stain formula:
Megafix Type B reactive dye, Caustic soda, acetic acid, first bright salt, chelating agen, hydrogen peroxide, penetrating agent;Typically select gold Belonging to chelating agen, JFC penetrating agent etc. typically selected by penetrating agent
The configuration of b, equipment and technological process
Metal → dress cage → enter cylinder → pre-treatment → dyeing → post processing → dehydration → drying → tight cylinder;
Use slack winder to carry out metal → employing tube cylinder to carry out pre-treatment → employing tube cylinder and carry out dyeing → adopting Carry out being dehydrated → use radio frequency dryer by cheese Efficient dehydrator to carry out drying → use compact form bobbin-winding machine and carry out tight cylinder;
C, technological requirement are as follows:
In metal step: using density during design cylinder yarn density is 0.33~0.35g/cm3, Weight control 700~ In the range of 750g;
During metal, winding tension should control at 0.3-0.45g/dtex;
In pre-treatment step: use acid tencel enzyme Hontonzyme PA process;The usage amount of tencel enzyme is basis Tencel content determines consumption and the time of process of tencel enzyme, and in this method, consumption is 1-1.5g/L, and the process time is 30min.
In staining procedure: dyestuff be a chloro-s-triazine group be bridge formation base, through screening dye matrix on introduce second Alkene sulfone sulphuric acid vinegar group;(being specifically as follows the Megafix Type B reactive dye that Shanghai Wande Chemical Co., Ltd. produces).
A kind of method for weaving of above-mentioned white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton shirt fabric, process specifications includes:
1, Fabric Style and weave specification
The design parameter of fabric is as follows:
Fabric width: 147cm (finished product)
Warp thread: CF white coconut carbon fiber 30/ tencel 30/ combed cotton 40 18.4tex
Weft yarn: CF white coconut carbon fiber 30/ tencel 30/ combed cotton 40 18.4tex
End count: 393.5/10cm
Filling density: 314.5/10cm
Grammes per square metre: 140g/m2
Fabric tissue: 2/2
2, the technological process of production
Winder → warp, slurry join → wear (knot) through → weaving → arrange → inspection → become bag → put in storage;
3, processing parameter and key problem in technology require:
3.1, intelligent warp, slurry combination machine
3.1.1, type: ASGA236-360.
3.1.2, the determination principle of winding bar number:
During warping, the winding radical of every is designed as 416, is just 2 complete flower pattern;
The total quantity of warps of grey cloth is 5824, and the woven total quantity of warps of double width is 11648;By 11648 warp thread by every The ratio that bar is 416 produces, and total winding bar number is 28, and strip width is 114.3mm, and displacement preset value is 1.02mm;
3.1.3, the tension in Warping configuration of warping sizing machine:
Warp tension zonal control, proparea tension force, middle district tension force, back zone tension force press large, medium and small tension scheme, every limit Yarn tension adds 3 grams the most successively;
3.1.4, slashing technique technical essential
Select CP-L slurry;
The rate of sizing is set to 9~10%;
Slurry solid content is 11%, slurry viscosity 6~6.5 seconds (3# standard funnel), and squeezing roller pressure uses high pressure, II speed Pressure set points is 17~18kN;
3.2, beaming
Loom weaving could be gone up on the warp thread beam of a loom to be poured into being wound on cylinder;
By belt transmission between cylinder and beam of a loom, Pneumatic Pressure, design of pressure is 5MPa;
Beaming displacement preset value is set as 1.02mm;
3.3, operation of gaiting
Determining that reed enters number is 2, and porter is 44.25#(made in Great Britain);
The warp thread being plugged need to have knotting at the another side of reed, prevents yarn tail in handling process from coming off;
3.4, loom production technology
The height of the back rest and warp stop frame will raise, and it is+1-+3mm that the back rest raises numerical value;Warp stop frame height raises 1-2 lattice;
During weaving, the warp thread lease rods of different colours separates;
Wefting insertion order is by realizing loom input through keyboard action command commander two or four weft accumulators, selection Four weft accumulators carry out mixed latitude.
This fabric after testing, meets GB18401-2010 " national general safety technical code for textile products " B class and FZ/T The requirement of the Grade A that 13007-2008 " yarn-dyed cotton fabric " standard specifies, its detection data are as follows:
Detection project Data
Content of formaldehyde Do not detect
PH value 6.9
Decomposable asymmetric choice net carcinogenic aromatic amine dyestuff Do not detect
Abnormal flavour Nothing
Warp-wise ultimate strength 581N
Broadwise ultimate strength 383N
Warp-wise tearing brute force 33N
Broadwise tearing brute force 24N
Warp-wise density variation rate +0.1
Latitudinal density deviation ratio -1.0
Colour fastness to rubbing unlubricated friction 4-5 level
Colour fastness to rubbing is wet to rub 2-3 level
Alkaline-resisting PERSPIRATION COLOR FASTNESS former state variable color 4-5 level
Alkaline-resisting PERSPIRATION COLOR FASTNESS staining 4-5 level
Acidproof PERSPIRATION COLOR FASTNESS former state variable color 4-5 level
Acidproof PERSPIRATION COLOR FASTNESS staining 4-5 level
Color fastness to water former state variable color 4-5 level
Color fastness to water staining 4-5 level
Fastness to soaping former state variable color 4-5 level
Fastness to soaping staining 4-5 level
This fabric is through CTTC with reference to FZ/T64010-2000 " far-infrared textiles " detection, and its far infrared normal emittance is After 90%, and scrubbed 20 times, its far infrared normal emittance is 87%, reference standard, illustrates that this fabric has good Far-infrared functional.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with detailed description of the invention, the present invention is further described as follows:
One, main exploitation content and key problem in technology
1, set about from specific surface area and the white coconut husk Carbon fibe preparation technology of white coconut husk charcoal, study white coconut husk Carbon fibe superpower Absorption, moisture absorption mechanism.
2, further investigate the microstructure of white coconut husk Carbon fibe, dissect white coconut husk Carbon fibe goods and can discharge in atmosphere It is of value to the negative oxygen ion of human body and the action principle of far infrared can be radiated.
3, for white coconut husk Carbon fibe and tencel fiber smooth surface, fiber proportion this characteristic relatively light, formulate reasonably Spinning process, to solve, yarn strength is low, spinning twines the problems such as roller.
4, research slashing technique formula and technological parameter, prevent dyed yarn from discoloring or be mutually stained with between the yarn of different colours Color.
5, research shirt fabric rear finishing duplex technology, can make the own function of white coconut husk Carbon fibe will not lose, again Fabric can be made to have glutinous, the appearance style of Fresh and elegant soft, sliding.
Two, research of technique and summary
The main functionality of this fabric is realized by white coconut husk Carbon fibe, the raw material main source of white coconut husk Carbon fibe In coconut husk, and coconut husk is mainly made up of materials such as cellulose, lignin, hemicellulose and pectin, content of cellulose therein Account for 46%-63%.Because in coconut husk, content of cellulose is high, hemicellulose level is little, and therefore, the coconut palm Carbon fibe being processed into has excellent Good mechanical property, and moisture-proof, thermostability are more excellent.The basic Making programme of coconut palm Carbon fibe is: is first reclaimed by coconut husk and cuts Broken, soak, beat, remove impurity, be dried to extract cellulosic;Then this cellulosic is heated to 1000-1600 DEG C, and at water vapour For generating coconut palm charcoal under the effect of activator, coconut palm charcoal is also a kind of porous mass as bamboo charcoal, and molecular structure is hexagon, carbonaceous Densification, hole is many, and carbon content is up to 93%-96%;Traditional viscose rayon spinning process is finally utilized to prepare coconut palm Carbon fibe.
Coconut palm charcoal in coconut palm Carbon fibe can form a kind of porous surface, and perspiration and dampness after human motion can be the biggest That measures is absorbed and spreads rapidly and volatilize, it is ensured that human skin and the dry and comfortable of inner textile layer are breathed freely, and improve face The wearability of material and comfort level.One kilogram of coconut palm carbon fiber surface amasss the area being equivalent to about four basketball courts, therefore coconut palm charcoal Fiber self has powerful absorption affinity, can the most effectively remove the abnormal flavour in air, and deodorization functions is notable, also Can be with sorption chemical toxicant.Coconut palm Carbon fibe itself also exists approximation graphite and the structure of diamond, is producing friction with air Time can transfer an electron in air, and self produce positive charge via be similar to graphite electric conductivity can with the earth produce make With thus form anion, so it is the most comfortable as stayed the Nature to wear coconut palm carbon fabric.Coconut palm charcoal molecule divides Minor structure can be produced resonance by heat energy effect, just falls due to resonant frequency in far transmitting wavelength (4.0-14.0 μm) Interval, therefore the far infrared transmission of coconut palm charcoal molecule reaches more than 90%, it is possible to play heat storing and heat preserving, blood circulation promoting and improvement Metabolic effect.
(1) spinning technology requirement
1, raw material choice technology:
Tencel fiber LF: length 37.13mm, fineness 1.35dtex, strongly: 4.86cN/cm, regain: 9.62%;
White coconut husk Carbon fibe: length 37.31mm, fineness 1.60dtex, regain: 9.88%;
Cotton fiber leading indicator: average rank 3.0, principal length 29mm, fineness 5900Nm, mic value 3.9, short fiber content 7.3%, percentage of impurity 1.1%, regain 7.6%.
2, equipment apolegamy technology:
1. tencel (TEL): A076E disc bale plucker → A186F carding machine → FA306A drawing frame
2. white coconut carbon (R): A076E disc bale plucker → A186F carding machine → FA306A drawing frame
3. cotton: Blowing carding → FA306A pre-drawing → JSFA360A bar also rolls up → JSFA288 combing machine
4. drafting: 1.+2.+3. FA306A drafting (head also, two also, end also) → JWF1415 fly frame → DTM129 spun yarn Machine → No.21C automatic winder (USTER electricity is clear).
3, fore-spinning technology:
(3.1) scutching cotton operation
In preparatory process, white coconut husk Carbon fibe has the strongest moisture adsorption and releasing ability, and in spinning process, fiber is in moisture absorption State can produce substantial amounts of electrostatic, causes around roller and roller, affects manufacturing schedule and quality, so needing to carry out before producing Pretreatment.Regain according to white coconut husk charcoal glue fiber and the size of oil content, before feeding intake 6~8h to fiber by a definite proportion Example spray water, makes to be in moisture releasing state in white coconut husk Carbon fibe each operation afterwards.
Tencel fiber is more straight, and easily shredding;And coconut husk Carbon fibe strength is the most relatively low in vain, it is easily generated short flannel.Therefore opening Scutching cotton operation should reduce striking point, reduce speed, reduce fibre damage, so using short route, be mixed into master with shredding, subtracting The techniques such as few strike, beats with comb generation, control linters rate, hired roughneck's low velocity.
(3.2) carding step
Carding step is the core of whole spinning process, affects the prescriptions such as the cotton knot of resultant yarn, short flannel, bar be dry.White coconut palm The easy brittle failure of shell Carbon fibe, interfibrous coefficient of friction are little, note avoiding fibre damage in carding process as far as possible, reduce short flannel and produce Raw, so using the technological principle of " low velocity, high ratio, low noil ";Tencel fiber is smooth loose and regain is high, uses " light quantitatively, low velocity, close setting, strong point of comb, many combs few fall " technological principle.
In spinning process little due to the cohesive force between tencel fiber, the technique of employing is inadequate again to the tension force of web, web Sinking, broken strip is many, and cotton knot is many.Decreased doffer speed, after adjusting cylinder-doffer's spacer and strengthening web tension force, produces Smoothly, web is clear, cotton knot be down to 0-1 grain/gram.
(3.3) mixing in doubling step
Due to white coconut husk Carbon fibe with tencel fiber structure is bulk, cohesive force is poor, in the carded sliver, Fiber Straightness is poor, exists big The crotch of amount, drafting to improve the depth of parallelism of fiber as far as possible, reduce long short term irregularity.The most quantitative, little leading is taked in technique Stretch, it is ensured that control to fiber in drafting process, in order to improve drawn sliver regularity.Secondly the specific surface area of tencel fiber is big, rubs Wiping coefficient is big, and drawing of fiber power is big, is easily generated electrostatic in mixing in doubling step, the humidity absorption and release ability of the whitest coconut husk Carbon fibe By force, spinning process easily presents sucting wet state, easily becomes raw electrostatic, will strictly control humiture, use at coating antistatic simultaneously Reason roller.
(3.4) Roving Frames
For tencel and white coconut husk Carbon fibe and cotton fiber mixed yarn, rove is the operation of non-the normally off key, direct shadow Ring yarn quality.Use slightly larger twist factor, improve interfibrous cohesive force in rove bar, misdraft when reducing rove unwinding Appearance;The length of fiber is longer, uses and spaces greatly, and space the least drafting force excessive easy damaged fiber;Tension force controls the heaviest , the biggest tension force can cause yarn details, causes unexpected elongation;Regular roving feeding is the gentliest grasped, to reduce spinning frame total draft Multiple, contribute to reduce fiber shifting in stretch exercise away from deviation, improve evenness of yarn strip and improve yarn quality, use relatively Little back zone drafting multiple and spacing block are useful to thick Yarn Evenness, and suitably reduce fly frame speed.Rove main technologic parameters: Rove designs quantification of 4.8g/10m, and roving twist factor is set as 88, total draft multiple 8.28 times, first break draft multiple 1.35, always Drafting multiple 8.28, flier speed 900r/min, roller gauge 10 × 28 × 41.
4, spinning process technology
In spinning process, the single thread force of white coconut husk Carbon fibe is relatively low, although and tencel fiber monofilament strength is high, but Fibre number is thin, and extension at break is less than normal, and during spinning, three kinds of fibers easily damage, and fiber in tencel fiber weaving process Between phase mutual friction, microfibre can successively be cutd open along the longitudinal direction of fiber and be separated out, and this phenomenon is called fibrillation phenomenon, therefore White coconut husk Carbon fibe and tencel fiber and cotton fiber mixed yarn filoplume are more, reduce filoplume and become in spinning process most important one Individual link.
The selection of wire loop, wire loop kicks the beam, and tension force is little, and the width of air ring is more than the spacing between anti-balloon plate, at this moment yarn And produce collision friction between anti-balloon plate, produce too high filoplume;But wire loop is overweight, broken end is caused to increase.The performance of wire loop The most particularly important, select center of gravity relatively low, the wire loop that opening is less, frictional force is little, section is mellow and full, my company selects UDR4/0 type Specific alloy high-carbon steel wire ring.
Controlling ambient temperature and humidity well, dry environment filoplume and flyings increase, and relative humidity is too low simultaneously, and fiber easily twines glue Roller apron, for ensureing workshop humidity, uses the way of local watering, the temperature in workshop 32 DEG C, humidity about 62%.
Use compact spinning, significantly more efficient minimizing Yarn filoplume.Compact spinning is enterprising at the Novel ring spindle spinning frame improved A kind of Advanced Spinning Technologies of row spinning, adds a fibre deposition district before ring throstle traction apparatus, substantially eliminates Front roller is to the spinning twist triangle zone between twisting point, and fiber strip, after front roller nip exports, first passes through abnormity suction Airduct overcoat grid ring, yarn is attached in grid ring, together moves with grid ring, due to contraction and the polymerization of air-flow, Making strand integrated composite, rotation by the air draught groove of special pipe, progressively transfer cylinder to from flat belt-like, the termination of fiber is all twisted into yarn In line, therefore resultant yarn is closely, and yarn appearance is bright and clean, filoplume is few.
Use twist factor bigger than normal, in order to reduce the impact on Yarn filoplume of the tencel fibrillation, twist factor is increased to 368, staple fiber ends is firmly bonded in yarn body.
Other technological parameter: roller gauge 18 × 38, back zone drafting multiple 1.24 times, rings model PG1 4254, steel wire Ring udr1/0, nip gauge 3.5mm, yarn twist factor 368, spun yarn front roller speed 230r/min.
5, winding process technology
This product is particularly easy to sanding and touches disconnected, and package is relatively tight, and therefore, influence of winding tension and splicer pressure are arranged to be wanted partially Little grasp, doff channel requirements is bright and clean, and broken yarn self-stop carry arm is wanted flexibly, prevents bobbin and groove drum friction, doff joint after broken end Quality is also the most crucial, all has an impact warping and weaving, and the setting of Joint Parameter wants appropriate, it is ensured that joint appearance quality meets Requirement, piecing strength requires to reach raw yarn more than 85% simultaneously.Suitably reduce the speed of groove drum, reduce filoplume and produce, improve cylinder The quality of sub-yarn, winder speed 1000m/min.
6, the lime light in production process:
Equipment state to ensure well.Ensure that comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning eedle cloth is in good order and condition, it is to avoid because the damage of pin cloth causes a large amount of Short flannel and cotton knot, affect product quality.Suspended Spindle for Roving is flexible, prevents unexpected elongation;Rationally to select simultaneously rubber roll, wire loop and Strict cycle management.Adjustment and maintenance timely to crooked anti-balloon plate, changes shaggy anti-balloon plate in time, uses metal every yarn Plate, reduces the impact damaged yam surface because of anti-balloon plate rough surface.Adjust and repair eccentric spindle and eccentric guide in time The winding unit influential on filoplume such as hook.The joint of bobbin suitably adjusts untwisting, the time of twisting, air pressure, strengthens quality inspection Look into and check on.
Operating operation management to be strengthened, to broken end and bad spool remove in time, find bad single ingot and mechanical problem and Time contact maintainer.
(2) bobbin dyeing technology technology requirement
1, medicine composition
Tencel enzyme Hontonzyme PA, Megafix Type B reactive dye, Caustic soda, acetic acid, first bright salt, chelating agen, dioxygen Water, penetrating agent.
2, equipment configuration and technological process
SSA slack winder → DGAKS tube cylinder (pre-treatment) → DGAKS tube cylinder (dyeing) → RZT-60 cheese is high Effect dewaterer → SP01-85 radio frequency dryer → SHA compact form bobbin-winding machine
3, main technique technical essential
Metal, cheese uses column type plastic tube, owing to tencel fiber, white coconut husk Carbon fibe and cotton fiber are celluloses Fiber, can occur Swelling after its moisture absorption, mainly due to hydrophilic radical and hydrone in amorphous region macromole in fiber Combine with hydrogen bond, make amorphous region macromolecular chain segment range of movement increase, there is high-expansion, expand in water and reach 40%, Although making dyestuff and auxiliary agent be easily accessible fibrous inside, but the reduction suitable when designing cylinder yarn density, using density is 0.33 ~0.35g/cm3, Weight control is in the range of 700~750g.During metal, winding tension is to affect cylinder yarn density and become The key factor of shape, the density domination of cylinder yarn is mainly realized by the size of regulation winding tension, and winding tension should be controlled System is in suitable scope.
Pre-treatment, bleaching, primarily to the dirt removed on yarn, directly affects color and luster and the dye of shirt fabric The whiteness etc. of semi-products before color, is ensureing that yarn strength selects technical recipe in the case of the most impaired.In order to remove yam surface Filoplume, use cellulose treatment, acid tencel enzyme Hontonzyme PA can be used for tencel yarn, it has excellent Different unhairing usefulness, but due in white coconut husk Carbon fibe macromole glucosidic bond the least to the stability of acid, and white coconut husk charcoal is fine That ties up is wet the most relatively low, uses the damage of this cellulase dialogue coconut husk Carbon fibe relatively big, controls usage amount and the process of tencel enzyme Time is particularly important.
Dyeing, it is considered to single active base dye does not possess anti-fibrillation effect, and the dyestuff of double-active radical or three activity exists Cellulose fibre molecule interchain can form crosslinking, makes the anti-fibril of polyfunctional group reactive dye along with the increase of dye strength simultaneously Change effect is strengthened.Consider the factors such as index and cost such as dye-uptake, level-dyeing property, colorfastness, to select double-active group to live Property dyestuff is preferably.This product uses the Megafix Type B reactive dye that Shanghai Wande Chemical Co., Ltd. produces.This dyestuff is with one Chloro-s-triazine group is bridge formation base, introduces vinyl sulfone(RemzaolHuo Xingranliaohuoxingjituan) sulphuric acid vinegar group on the dye matrix through screening, and it has two kinds of work concurrently Property group strong point, reactive good, degree of fixation is high, and dye stability is good, favorable reproducibility, dependence to each technological parameter during dyeing Property is little, the good penetrability to fabric, is not likely to produce the defects such as color dot.
(3) weaving process technology requirement
1, Fabric Style and weave specification
This fabric flower pattern selected classical Scotland check, lattice change complexity, over-colored is natural, show fully rough bold and unconstrained it Style.Fabric color is based on popular red, black system in winter in this year, and warm tones makes people wear and feels more warm, fabric through after road Sanding shrunk finish, color and luster is soft simple and elegant, is like nature itself, and the imitative feel of wool is very strong, in addition its also have moisture absorption inhale smelly, the negative oxygen of release from The functions such as son, radiation far infrared, are first choice of shirt fabric in winter in fact.The weave specification design of fabric is also based on winter The functional requirement such as thick and heavy, soft, warming of dress, it is ensured that its not only practicality but also attractive in appearance.The design parameter of fabric is as follows:
Fabric width: 147cm (finished product)
Warp thread: CF white coconut carbon fiber 30/ tencel 30/ combed cotton 40 18.4tex
Weft yarn: CF white coconut carbon fiber 30/ tencel 30/ combed cotton 40 18.4tex
End count: 393.5/10cm
Filling density: 314.5/10cm
Grammes per square metre: 140g/m2
Fabric tissue: 2/2
2, the technological process of production
Winder → warp, slurry join → wear (knot) through → weaving → arrange → inspection → become bag → put in storage
3, processing parameter and key problem in technology
3.1, intelligent warp, slurry combination machine
3.1.1, type: ASGA236-360.
3.1.2, the determination principle of winding bar number: the often flower circulation of this kind is relatively big, and radical up to 208, for giving full play to The maximum limit of bobbin cradle capacity, reduce winding times, during warping, the winding radical of every is designed as 416, be just 2 complete Whole flower type.The total quantity of warps of grey cloth is 5824, and the woven total quantity of warps of double width is 11648, therefore can be by 11648 warp thread Producing in the ratio of 416 every, total winding bar number is 28, and strip width is 114.3mm, and displacement preset value is 1.02mm。
3.1.3, the tension in Warping configuration of warping sizing machine:
Warp tension zonal control, proparea tension force, middle district tension force, back zone tension force are by large, medium and small tension scheme, and tension force is big Little being mainly is realized by encirclement angle during regulation unwinding yarn, and every limit yarn tension adds 3 grams.
3.1.4, slashing technique technical essential
Sizing operation is the key of weaving engineering, can be improved the weavability of warp thread by sizing.Formulate during this fabric sizing The technique thinking of " enhancing, antifriction, guarantor stretch, paste FUMAO plumage ", preferably strong with cotton fiber adhesion, penetration is strong, easy leasing Formula of size, we have selected this slurry of CP-L, and this slurry is good with cotton fiber affinity, and serosity is prone to penetrate in yarn Portion, and the cohesiveness of serous coat is little, dry differentiation strand is brisk, and serous coat is complete, and secondary filoplume is few.Because warp thread is compact spinning, yarn body is tied Structure denser, the rate of sizing is than common RING SPINNING 32sCan low 1~2%, this kind rate of sizing is set to 9~10%, can meet weaving Demand.Tension force the wettest district of each district tension force answers grasp bigger than normal, in case compact spinning tresses, hits dent.We are setting sizing During technological parameter, following strictly the process route of " two high low ", design slurry solid content is 11%, slurry viscosity 6~6.5 seconds (3# standard funnel), squeezing roller pressure uses high pressure, and II speed pressure set points is 17~18kN, and higher squeezing pressure, serosity oozes Thoroughly performance is good, and the roundness of yarn is high, closely knit between fiber, and the free filoplume of yam surface is prone to be affixed to yarn body, yarn more resistant to Mill.Grasp that slurry groove temperature is on the low side, prevents yarn from discoloring or staining.
3.2, beaming
Loom weaving could be gone up on the warp thread beam of a loom to be poured into being wound on cylinder.Passed by belt between cylinder and beam of a loom Dynamic, Pneumatic Pressure, design of pressure is 5MPa.Beaming displacement preset value is set as 1.02mm.
3.3, gait operation
Because this kind grey cloth end count only has 393.5/10cm, warp-wise tightness not to be too big, suitable porter to be selected, as Really reed enters to count many, then cloth noodles shadow is serious, has obvious open reed to produce, affects cloth cover attractive in appearance;If it is few that reed enters number, then warp thread exists Can be very serious with dent friction during weaving, broken end increases.We determined that reed enters number is 2, and porter is 44.25#(made in Great Britain).This kind Flower pattern is complicated, and dyed yarn circulation radical is many, and operation easier of gaiting is very big, first should wear in strict accordance with the Warp Tension Test order of shades of colour Heald, then carry out plugging in reed, the part put on is checked, in case makeing mistakes when plugging in reed.The warp thread being plugged need to another at reed One side has knotting, and prevents yarn tail in handling process from coming off.
3.4, loom production technology
This fabric is low through broadwise tightness, and the cloth cover easily side's of appearance eye fault, for making cloth cover full grains, the back rest and warp stop frame Height will raise, artificial increase levels warp tension difference, and top line is prone to because tension force is little protrude at cloth cover, Fang Xian Cloth cover is plentiful.The fabric tissue of this kind selects 2/2, coordinates the color yarn arrangement of different colours, and fabric is high in color stereovision, adjacent Between color, transition is natural.During weaving, the warp thread lease rods of different colours separates, one be in order to prevent twist head, two be in order to It is easy to block lathe work operation.This kind weft yarn color alignment is extremely complex, and wefting insertion order is mainly by moving at loom input through keyboard Making instruction commander two or four weft accumulators realize, four weft accumulators that we select carry out mixed latitude, reduce barriness defect Point produces.The dust produced during weaving is often with the color of two kinds of warp thread, if adhering to cause on the detecting head of bobbin feeler broadwise Mistakenly stop, or owing to dust blocking makes auxiliary nozzle air current the most freely cause looped weft fault, ride to be strengthened cleans, and removes machine in time Dust on platform.

Claims (1)

1. a Yarn spinning method for white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn, is characterized in that
The raw material choice method of described white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn is:
Tencel fiber LF requires to include: a length of 37.13mm, fineness are 1.35dtex, strength is 4.86cN/cm, regain It is 9.62%;
Requiring to include of white coconut husk Carbon fibe: a length of 37.31mm, fineness are 1.60dtex, regain is 9.88%;
Cotton fiber index request includes: average rank is 3.0, principal length is 29mm, fineness is 5900Nm, mic value is 3.9, short fiber content be 7.3%, percentage of impurity be 1.1%, regain be 7.6%;
The Yarn spinning method of described white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn is:
A, fore-spinning require to include:
(a-1) in scutching cotton operation,
For white coconut husk Carbon fibe, before feeding intake, 6~8h to fiber spray water;
In opening and cleaning step, use a striking point, grab cotton Beater Speed 800 ± 80r/min;Kirschner beater speed 380 ± 40r/min;The Beater Speed of lapper is 550 ± 50r/min
(a-2) in carding step,
The doffer speed of white coconut husk Carbon fibe is 18 ± 2m/min, and spacing between cylinder and doffer is 19 ± 1 English silks;
The doffer speed of tencel fiber is 21 ± 2m/min, and spacing between cylinder and doffer is 19 ± 1 English silks;
(a-3) in mixing in doubling step,
Quantification of 21~24g/5m, the drafting multiple scope of drafting tension is 6~8 times;
Controlling ambient temperature and humidity, temperature range is 23~28 DEG C, and humidity range is 50%~65%;Use coating antistatic simultaneously Process roller;
(a-4) in Roving Frames,
The technological requirement of rove is: rove designs quantification of 4.8 ± 4g/10m, and roving twist factor is set as 88, total draft multiple Being 8.28 ± 1 times, first break draft multiple is 1.35 ± 0.3 times, flier speed 900 ± 10r/min, roller gauge 10mm × 28mm × 41mm;
B, spinning process require:
Control the temperature 32 DEG C of environment, humidity 62%;
Twist factor is 368;
C, winding process require:
Winder speed 1000 ± 50m/min.
CN201610632296.8A 2015-01-20 2015-01-20 The Yarn spinning method of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn Pending CN106120049A (en)

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