CN104562346B - The colouring method of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn - Google Patents

The colouring method of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104562346B
CN104562346B CN201510029118.1A CN201510029118A CN104562346B CN 104562346 B CN104562346 B CN 104562346B CN 201510029118 A CN201510029118 A CN 201510029118A CN 104562346 B CN104562346 B CN 104562346B
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China
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tencel
yarn
coconut husk
fiber
white coconut
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CN104562346A (en
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高山
高一山
严以登
刘松
朱黎明
陈玉平
刘莹莹
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Jiangsu Yueda Home Textile Co Ltd
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JIANGSU YUEDA TEXTILE Corp (GROUP)
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Priority to CN201610632296.8A priority Critical patent/CN106120049A/en
Priority to CN201510029118.1A priority patent/CN104562346B/en
Priority to CN201610634371.4A priority patent/CN106149128B/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/445—Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2101/00—Inorganic fibres
    • D10B2101/10—Inorganic fibres based on non-oxides other than metals
    • D10B2101/12—Carbon; Pitch
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

A kind of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton shirt fabric and its method for weaving, its raw material choice method：Tencel fiber LF requires to include：Length is 37.13mm, fineness is 1.35dtex, be strongly 4.86cN/cm, regain is 9.62%；The requiring to include of white coconut husk Carbon fibe：Length is 37.31mm, fineness is 1.60dtex, regain is 9.88%；Cotton fiber index request includes：Average rank is 3.0, principal length is 29mm, fineness is 5900Nm, mic value is 3.9, short fiber content is 7.3%, percentage of impurity is 1.1%, regain is 7.6%.By methods such as specific weavings, the examined index of this product is made to meet GB18401 2010《National general safety technical code for textile products》B class and FZ/T 13,007 2008《Yarn-dyed cotton fabric》The requirement of the Grade A that standard specifies.

Description

The colouring method of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, the colouring method of specifically a kind of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn.
Background technology
In prior art, white coconut husk Carbon fibe has superpower absorption and moisture absorbing, and has release and be beneficial to human body Negative oxygen ion and the effect that far infrared can be radiated.But, white coconut husk Carbon fibe and tencel fiber occur in spinning Yarn strength is low, spinning twines the problems such as roller.And have dyed yarn discolor or the yarn of different colours between mutually staining Problem.When white coconut husk Carbon fibe is weaved, when using existing process, the above-mentioned functions of its own can be lost, and loses Its proper sense.
Content of the invention
In order to solve the above-mentioned problems in the prior art, the present invention proposes a kind of new white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton Shirt fabric and its method for weaving, specific as follows：
A kind of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn, its raw material choice method：
Tencel fiber LF：Length 37.13mm, fineness 1.35dtex, strongly：4.86cN/cm, regain：9.62%；
White coconut husk Carbon fibe：Length 37.31mm, fineness 1.60dtex, regain：9.88%；
Cotton fiber index request：Average rank 3.0, principal length 29mm, fineness 5900Nm, mic value 3.9, short fiber content 7.3%th, percentage of impurity 1.1%, regain 7.6%.
A kind of Yarn spinning method of above-mentioned white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn, technological requirement includes：
A, fore-spinning method：
(a-1) scutching cotton operation
Regain according to white coconut husk Carbon fibe and the size of oil content, before feeding intake, 6～8h is to fiber spray water；
In opening and cleaning step, using a striking point, grab cotton Beater Speed 800 ± 80r/min (preferably 800r/ min)；FA106 kirschner beater speed 380 ± 40r/min (preferably 380r/min)；A076E lapper Beater Speed be 550 ± 50r/min (preferably 550r/min)
(a-2) carding step
In spinning process, the doffer speed of white coconut husk Carbon fibe is 18 ± 2m/min (preferably 18m/min), cylinder and road Gauge between husband is 19 ± 1 English silks (preferably 19 English silk)；
The doffer speed of tencel fiber is 21 ± 2m/min (preferably 21m/min), and the gauge between cylinder and doffer is 19 ± 1 English silk (preferably 19 English silk)；
(a-3) mixing in doubling step
Quantification of 21-24g/5m is taken on technique, the drafting multiple scope of drafting tension is 6-8；
Control ambient temperature and humidity, temperature range is 23-28 DEG C, humidity range is 50%-65%；Prevented quiet using coating simultaneously Electric treatment roller；
(a-4) Roving Frames
The technological parameter of rove requires：Rove designs quantification of 4.8 ± 4g/10m (preferably 4.8g/10m), and rove is twisted with the fingers Coefficient is set as 88, and total draft multiple is 8.28 ± 1 times (preferably 8.28 times), and first break draft multiple is for 1.35 ± 0.3 times (preferably For 1.35), flier speed 900 ± 10r/min (preferably 900r/min), roller gauge 10mm × 28mm × 41mm.
B, spinning process method require：
The selection UDR4/0 type specific alloy high-carbon steel wire ring of wire loop；
Control 32 DEG C of the temperature of environment, humidity 62% about；
Twist factor is increased to 368.
Other technological parameters require：Roller gauge 18 × 38,1.24 times of back zone drafting multiple, rings model PG1 4254, wire loop model udr1/0, nip gauge 3.5mm, yarn twist factor 368, spun yarn front roller speed 230r/min.
C, winding process technology
Winder speed 1000 ± 50m/min (preferably 1000m/min).
A kind of colouring method of above-mentioned white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn, technological requirement includes：
A, dyeing agent prescription：
Megafix Type B reactive dye, Caustic soda, acetic acid, first bright salt, chelating agen, hydrogen peroxide, penetrating agent；Typically from gold Belong to chelating agen, JFC penetrating agent etc. typically selected by penetrating agent
B, device configuration and technological process
Metal → dress cage → enter cylinder → pre-treatment → dyeing → post processing → dehydration → drying → tight cylinder；
Metal → carry out pre-treatment → carry out dyeing → adopting using tube cylinder using tube cylinder is carried out using slack winder Carried out with cheese Efficient dehydrator being dehydrated → carry out drying using radio frequency dryer → tight cylinder is carried out using compact form bobbin-winding machine；
C, technological requirement are as follows：
In metal step：Density is adopted to be 0.33～0.35g/cm during design cylinder yarn density3, Weight control 700～ In the range of 750g；
During metal, winding tension should control in 0.3-0.45g/dtex；
In pre-treatment step：Using acid tencel enzyme Hontonzyme PA process；The usage amount of tencel enzyme is basis Tencel content determines consumption and the process time of tencel enzyme, and in this method, consumption is 1-1.5g/L, and process time is 30min.
In staining procedure：Dyestuff is a chloro-s-triazine group is bridge formation base, introduces second on the dye matrix through screening Alkene sulfone sulphuric acid vinegar group；(being specifically as follows the Megafix Type B reactive dye of Shanghai Wande Chemical Co., Ltd.'s production).
A kind of method for weaving of above-mentioned white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton shirt fabric, process specifications include：
1st, Fabric Style and weave specification
The design parameter of fabric is as follows：
Fabric width：147cm (finished product)
Warp thread：CF white coconut husk carbon fiber 30/ tencel, 30/ combed cotton 40 18.4tex
Weft yarn：CF white coconut husk carbon fiber 30/ tencel, 30/ combed cotton 40 18.4tex
End count：393.5 root/10cm
Filling density：314.5 root/10cm
Grammes per square metre：140g/m2
Fabric tissue：2/2↖
2nd, the technological process of production
Winder → warp, slurry join → wear (knot) through → weaving → arrange → inspection → become bag → put in storage；
3rd, processing parameter and key problem in technology require：
3.1st, intelligent warp, slurry combination machine
3.1.1, type：ASGA236-360.
3.1.2, wind the determination principle of bar number：
During warping, the winding radical of every is designed as 416, is just 2 complete flower pattern；
The total quantity of warps of fabric is 5824, and the woven total quantity of warps of double width is 11648；11648 warp thread are pressed every The ratio that bar is 416 is produced, and total winding bar number is 28, and strip width is 114.3mm, and displacement preset value is 1.02mm；
3.1.3, the tension in Warping configuration of warping sizing machine：
Warp tension zonal control, proparea tension force, middle area tension force, back zone tension force press large, medium and small tension scheme, every side Yarn tension respectively adds 3 grams successively；
3.1.4, slashing technique technical essential
Select CP-L slurry；
The rate of sizing is set to 9～10%；
Slurry solid content is 11%, slurry viscosity 6～6.5 seconds (3# standard funnel), and squeezing roller pressure adopts high pressure, II speed Pressure set points are 17～18kN；
3.2nd, beaming
To pour into wound on the warp thread on cylinder and loom weaving could be gone up on beam of a loom；
Pass through belt transmission, Pneumatic Pressure, design of pressure is 5MPa between cylinder and beam of a loom；
Beaming displacement preset value is set as 1.02mm；
3.3rd, gait operation
Determining that reed enters number is 2, and porter is 44.25#(made in Great Britain)；
The warp thread being plugged need to have knotting in the another side of reed, prevents yarn tail in handling process from coming off；
3.4th, loom production technology
The height of the back rest and warp stop frame will raise, and it is+1-+3mm that the back rest raises numerical value；Warp stop frame highly raises 1-2 lattice；
During weaving, the warp thread lease rods of different colours separates；
Wefting insertion order is by realizing in loom input through keyboard action command commander two or four weft accumulators, selection Four weft accumulators carry out mixed latitude.
This fabric after testing, meets GB18401-2010《National general safety technical code for textile products》B class and FZ/T 13007-2008《Yarn-dyed cotton fabric》The requirement of the Grade A that standard specifies, its detection data is as follows：
Detection project Data
Content of formaldehyde Do not detect
PH value 6.9
Decomposable asymmetric choice net carcinogenic aromatic amine dyestuff Do not detect
Abnormal flavour No
Warp-wise ultimate strength 581N
Broadwise ultimate strength 383N
Warp-wise tearing brute force 33N
Broadwise tearing brute force 24N
Warp-wise density variation rate +0.1
Latitudinal density deviation ratio -1.0
Colour fastness to rubbing unlubricated friction 4-5 level
Colour fastness to rubbing is wet to rub 2-3 level
Alkaline-resisting PERSPIRATION COLOR FASTNESS former state variable color 4-5 level
Alkaline-resisting PERSPIRATION COLOR FASTNESS staining 4-5 level
Acidproof PERSPIRATION COLOR FASTNESS former state variable color 4-5 level
Acidproof PERSPIRATION COLOR FASTNESS staining 4-5 level
Color fastness to water former state variable color 4-5 level
Color fastness to water staining 4-5 level
Fastness to soaping former state variable color 4-5 level
Fastness to soaping staining 4-5 level
This fabric is through CTTC with reference to FZ/T64010-2000《Far-infrared textiles》Detect, its far infrared normal emittance is After 90%, and scrubbed 20 times, its far infrared normal emittance is 87%, and reference standard illustrates that this fabric has good Far-infrared functional.
Specific embodiment
With reference to specific embodiment, the present invention is further described as follows：
First, main exploitation content and key problem in technology
1st, set about from the specific surface area of white coconut husk charcoal and white coconut husk charcoal fiber preparation process, study white coconut husk Carbon fibe superpower Absorption, moisture absorption mechanism.
2nd, further investigate the microstructure of white coconut husk Carbon fibe, dissect white coconut husk charcoal fibre and can discharge in atmosphere It is beneficial to the negative oxygen ion of human body and the action principle that far infrared can be radiated.
3rd, it is directed to white coconut husk Carbon fibe and tencel fiber smooth surface, fiber proportion this characteristic relatively light, formulate rational Spinning process, to solve, yarn strength is low, spinning twines the problems such as roller.
4th, research slashing technique formula and technological parameter, prevent dyed yarn from discoloring or the yarn of different colours between be mutually stained with Color.
5th, study shirt fabric postfinishing process technology, will not losing from functional of white coconut husk Carbon fibe can be made, and Fabric can be made to have soft, sliding glutinous, Fresh and elegant appearance style.
2nd, research of technique and summary
The main functionality of this fabric is realized by white coconut husk Carbon fibe, the raw material main source of white coconut husk Carbon fibe In coconut husk, and coconut husk is mainly by material compositions such as cellulose, lignin, hemicellulose and pectin, content of cellulose therein Account for 46%-63%.Because in coconut husk, content of cellulose is high, seldom, therefore, the coconut palm Carbon fibe that is processed into has excellent hemicellulose level Good mechanical property, and moisture-proof, thermostability are more excellent.The basic Making programme of coconut palm Carbon fibe is：First coconut husk is reclaimed and cut Broken, soak, beat, remove impurity, be dried to extract cellulosic；Then this cellulosic is heated to 1000-1600 DEG C, and in water vapour For generating coconut palm charcoal in the presence of activator, coconut palm charcoal is also a kind of porous mass as bamboo charcoal, and molecular structure is in hexagon, carbonaceous Densification, hole is many, and carbon content is up to 93%-96%；Finally prepare coconut palm Carbon fibe using traditional viscose rayon spinning process.
Coconut palm charcoal in coconut palm Carbon fibe can form a kind of porous surface, and the perspiration after human motion and dampness can be quickly big Being absorbed and spreading rapidly and volatilize it is ensured that human skin and the dry and comfortable of inner textile layer are breathed freely of amount, improves face The wearability of material and comfort level.One kilogram of coconut palm carbon fiber surface amasss the area being equivalent to about four basketball courts, therefore coconut palm charcoal Fiber itself has powerful absorption affinity, can effectively remove the abnormal flavour of in the air at short notice, and deodorization functions are notable, also Can be with sorption chemical toxicant.Coconut palm Carbon fibe has the structure of approximate graphite and diamond in itself, is producing friction with air When can transfer an electron in the air, and the positive charge itself producing can be produced with the earth via the electric conductivity similar to graphite and make With thus forming anion, so it is clearly comfortable as stayed the Nature to wear coconut palm carbon fabric.Divide in coconut palm charcoal molecule Minor structure can be produced resonance by heat energy effect, because resonant frequency just falls at far launch wavelength (4.0-14.0 μm) Interval, the far infrared transmission of therefore coconut palm charcoal molecule reaches more than 90%, can play heat storing and heat preserving, blood circulation promoting and improvement Metabolic effect.
(1) spinning technology requires
1st, raw material choice technology：
Tencel fiber LF：Length 37.13mm, fineness 1.35dtex, strongly：4.86cN/cm, regain：9.62%；
White coconut husk Carbon fibe：Length 37.31mm, fineness 1.60dtex, regain：9.88%；
Cotton fiber leading indicator：Average rank 3.0, principal length 29mm, fineness 5900Nm, mic value 3.9, short fiber content 7.3%th, percentage of impurity 1.1%, regain 7.6%.
2nd, equipment apolegamy technology：
1. tencel (TEL)：A076E disc bale plucker → A186F carding machine → FA306A drawing frame
2. white coconut carbon (R)：A076E disc bale plucker → A186F carding machine → FA306A drawing frame
3. cotton：Blowing carding → FA306A pre-drawing → JSFA360A bar simultaneously rolls up → JSFA288 combing machine
4. drafting：1.+2.+3. FA306A drafting (head simultaneously, two simultaneously, end simultaneously) → JWF1415 fly frame → DTM129 spun yarn Machine → No.21C automatic winder (USTER electricity is clear).
3rd, fore-spinning technology：
(3.1) scutching cotton operation
In preparatory process, white coconut husk Carbon fibe has very strong moisture adsorption and releasing ability, and in spinning process, fiber is in moisture absorption State can produce substantial amounts of electrostatic, cause around Lora and roller, affect manufacturing schedule and quality, so needing to carry out before producing Pretreatment.Regain according to white coconut husk charcoal glue fiber and the size of oil content, before feeding intake 6～8h to fiber by a definite proportion Example spray water, makes to be in moisture releasing state in white coconut husk Carbon fibe each operation afterwards.
Tencel fiber is more straight, and easy shredding；And coconut husk charcoal fiber strength is relatively low in vain, it is also easy to produce short flannel.Therefore opening Striking point should being reduced in scutching cotton operation, reduce speed, reduce fibre damage, so adopting short route, based on shredding mixing, subtracting Few strike, is beaten with combing generation, controls linters rate, the technique such as hired roughneck's low velocity.
(3.2) carding step
Carding step is the core of whole spinning process, the prescription such as the impact cotton knot of resultant yarn, short flannel, bar are done.White coconut palm The easy brittle failure of shell Carbon fibe, interfibrous coefficient of friction are little, note avoiding fibre damage in carding process as far as possible, reduce short flannel and produce Raw, so the technological principle using " low velocity, high ratio, low cotton "；Tencel fiber is smooth loose and regain is high, adopts " gently quantitation, low velocity, close setting, strong point of comb, comb few fall " technological principle.
In spinning process due to tencel fiber between cohesive force little, the technique of employing to the tension force of web again not, web Sink, broken strip is many, and cotton knot is many.After decreased doffer speed, adjustment cylinder-doffer's spacer and increasing web tension force, produce Smoothly, web is clear, cotton knot be down to 0-1 grain/gram.
(3.3) mixing in doubling step
Due to white coconut husk Carbon fibe with tencel fiber structure is bulk, cohesive force is poor, in the carded sliver, Fiber Straightness is poor, exists big The crotch of amount, drafting will improve the depth of parallelism of fiber as far as possible, reduces long short term irregularity.Light quantitative, little lead is taken on technique Stretch it is ensured that the control to fiber in drafting process, to improve drawn sliver regularity.Secondly the specific surface area of tencel fiber is big, rubs Wipe coefficient big, drawing of fiber power is big, is also easy to produce electrostatic in mixing in doubling step, simultaneously the humidity absorption and release ability of white coconut husk Carbon fibe By force, spinning process easily assumes sucting wet state, easily becomes raw electrostatic, will strictly control humiture, adopts at coating antistatic simultaneously Reason roller.
(3.4) Roving Frames
For tencel and white coconut husk Carbon fibe and cotton fiber mixed yarn, rove is the operation of non-the normally off key, direct shadow Ring yarn quality.Using slightly larger twist factor, improve interfibrous cohesive force in rove bar, misdraft when reducing rove unwinding Appearance；The length of fiber is longer, using big gauge, the excessive easy damaged fiber of the too little drafting force of gauge；Tension force is very heavy Will, too big tension force can cause yarn details, leads to unexpected elongation；Regular roving feeding is gently grasped partially, to reduce spinning frame total draft Multiple, contributes to reducing shifting in stretch exercise for the fiber away from deviation, improves evenness of yarn strip and improve yarn quality, using relatively Little back zone drafting multiple and spacing block are beneficial to thick Yarn Evenness, and suitably reduce fly frame speed.Rove main technologic parameters： Rove designs quantification of 4.8g/10m, and roving twist factor is set as 88,8.28 times of total draft multiple, first break draft multiple 1.35, always Drafting multiple 8.28, flier speed 900r/min, roller gauge 10 × 28 × 41.
4th, spinning process technology
In spinning process, the single thread force of white coconut husk Carbon fibe is relatively low, although and tencel fiber monofilament strength is high, Fibre number is thin, and extension at break is less than normal, and during spinning, three kinds of fibers easily damage, and fiber in tencel fiber weaving process Between phase mutual friction, microfibre successively can be cutd open along the longitudinal direction of fiber separates out come, this phenomenon is called fibrillation phenomenon, therefore White coconut husk Carbon fibe and tencel fiber and cotton fiber mixed yarn filoplume are more, and reducing filoplume becomes most important one in spinning process Individual link.
The selection of wire loop, wire loop kicks the beam, and tension force is little, and the width of air ring is more than the spacing between anti-balloon plate, at this moment yarn Produce collision friction and between anti-balloon plate, produce too high filoplume；But wire loop is overweight, broken end is led to increase.The performance of wire loop Also particularly important, opening less, frictional force little, section mellow and full wire loop relatively low from center of gravity, my company selects UDR4/0 type Specific alloy high-carbon steel wire ring.
Control ambient temperature and humidity, the environment filoplume being dried and flyings increase, and relative humidity is too low simultaneously, and fiber easily twines glue Roller apron, for ensureing workshop humidity, using the method for local watering, 32 DEG C of the temperature in workshop, humidity 62% about.
Using compact spinning, significantly more efficient minimizing Yarn filoplume.Compact spinning is enterprising in improved new ring throstle A kind of Advanced Spinning Technologies of row spinning, increased a fibre deposition area before ring throstle traction apparatuss, substantially eliminate The spinning twist triangle zone to twisting point for the front roller, fiber strip, after front roller nip output, first passes through abnormity suction Airduct overcoat grid ring, yarn is attached in grid ring, together moves with grid ring, due to contraction and the polymerization of air-flow, Strand integrated composite, rotation are made by the air draught groove of special pipe, progressively switchs to cylinder from flat belt-like, the termination of fiber is all twisted into yarn In line, therefore closely, yarn appearance is bright and clean, filoplume is few for resultant yarn.
Using twist factor bigger than normal, in order to reduce the impact to Yarn filoplume for the tencel fibrillation, twist factor is increased to 368, staple fiber ends are firmly bonded in yarn body.
Other technological parameters：Roller gauge 18 × 38,1.24 times of back zone drafting multiple, rings model PG1 4254, steel wire Ring udr1/0, nip gauge 3.5mm, yarn twist factor 368, spun yarn front roller speed 230r/min.
5th, winding process technology
This product is particularly easy to sanding and touches disconnected, and package is tighter, and therefore, influence of winding tension and the setting of splicer pressure will be partially Little grasp, doff channel requirements are bright and clean, and broken yarn self-stop carry arm flexibly will prevent bobbin and groove drum friction after broken end, doff joint Quality is also very crucial, and warping and weaving are all had an impact, and the setting of Joint Parameter will be appropriately it is ensured that joint appearance quality meets Require, piecing strength requires to reach raw yarn more than 85% simultaneously.Suitably reduce the speed of groove drum, reduce filoplume and produce, improve cylinder The quality of sub- yarn, winder speed 1000m/min.
6th, the lime light in production process:
Equipment state will ensure well.Ensure that cotton carding eedle cloth is in good order and condition, it is to avoid cause in a large number because pin cloth damages Short flannel and cotton knot, affect product quality.Suspended Spindle for Roving flexibly, prevents unexpected elongation；Want simultaneously reasonable selection rubber roll, wire loop and Strict cycle management.The timely adjustment and maintenance to crooked anti-balloon plate, changes shaggy anti-balloon plate, in time using metal every yarn Plate, reduces impact yam surface being damaged because of anti-balloon plate rough surface.Adjust and repair eccentric spindle and eccentric guide in time The winding unit influential on filoplume such as hook.The joint of bobbin suitably adjusts untwisting, the time of twisting, air pressure, strengthens quality inspection Look into and check on.
Operating will strengthen operation management, and broken end and bad spool are removed in time, find bad single ingot and mechanical problem and When contact maintainer.
(2) bobbin dyeing technology technical requirements
1st, medicine composition
Tencel enzyme Hontonzyme PA, Megafix Type B reactive dye, Caustic soda, acetic acid, first bright salt, chelating agen, dioxygen Water, penetrating agent.
2nd, device configuration and technological process
SSA slack winder → DGAKS tube cylinder (pre-treatment) → DGAKS tube cylinder (dyeing) → RZT-60 cheese is high Effect dewaterer → SP01-85 radio frequency dryer → SHA compact form bobbin-winding machine
3rd, main technique technical essential
Metal, cheese adopts cylinder shape plastic pipe, because tencel fiber, white coconut husk Carbon fibe and cotton fiber are celluloses Fiber, can occur Swelling after its moisture absorption, mainly due to hydrophilic radical and hydrone in amorphous region macromole in fiber Combined with hydrogen bond, so that amorphous region macromolecular chain segment range of movement is increased, there is high-expansion, expand in water and reach 40%, Although making dyestuff and auxiliary agent be easily accessible fibrous inside, the suitable reduction when designing cylinder yarn density, is 0.33 using density ～0.35g/cm3, Weight control is in the range of 700～750g.During metal, winding tension is to affect cylinder yarn density and become The key factor of shape, the density domination of cylinder yarn is mainly realized by the size adjusting winding tension, and winding tension should be controlled System is in suitable scope.
Pre-treatment, bleaching, primarily to removing the dirt on yarn, directly affects color and luster and the dye of shirt fabric Whiteness of semi-products etc. before color, is ensureing to select technical recipe in the case that yarn strength is not impaired.In order to remove yam surface Filoplume, using cellulose treatment, can be using acid tencel enzyme Hontonzyme PA for tencel yarn, it has excellent Different unhairing efficiency, but due in white coconut husk Carbon fibe macromole glucosidic bond to sour stability very little, and white coconut husk Carbon fiber That ties up is wet relatively low by force, larger using this cellulase dialogue coconut husk charcoal fibre damage, controls usage amount and the process of tencel enzyme Time is particularly important.
It is considered to single active base dye does not possess anti-fibrillation effect, the dyestuff of double-active radical or three activity exists dyeing Cellulose fibre molecule interchain can form crosslinking, and the increase with dye strength simultaneously makes the anti-fibril of polyfunctional group reactive dye Change effect is strengthened.Consider the factors such as index and cost such as dye-uptake, level-dyeing property, colorfastness, to live from double-active group Property dyestuff is preferably.This product adopts the Megafix Type B reactive dye that Shanghai Wande Chemical Co., Ltd. produces.This dyestuff is with one Chloro-s-triazine group is bridge formation base, introduces vinyl sulfone(RemzaolHuo Xingranliaohuoxingjituan) sulphuric acid vinegar group, it has two kinds of work concurrently on the dye matrix through screening Property group strong point, reactivity is good, and degree of fixation is high, and dye stability is good, favorable reproducibility, the dependence to each technological parameter during dyeing Property is little, the good penetrability to fabric, is not likely to produce the defects such as color dot.
(3) weaving process technical requirements
1st, Fabric Style and weave specification
This fabric flower pattern selected classics Scotland check, lattice change is complicated, and over-colored is natural, show fully rough bold and unconstrained it Style.Based on winter in this year popular red, black system, warm tones make one dress and feel more warm fabric color, fabric through after road Sanding shrunk finish, color and luster is soft simple and elegant, is like nature itself, the imitative feel of wool is very strong, in addition its also have moisture absorption inhale smelly, the negative oxygen of release from The functions such as son, radiation far infrared, are first choice of winter shirt fabric in fact.The weave specification design of fabric is also based on winter and The functional requirement such as thick and heavy, soft, warming of dress was it is ensured that it was not only practical but also attractive in appearance.The design parameter of fabric is as follows：
Fabric width：147cm (finished product)
Warp thread：CF white coconut husk carbon fiber 30/ tencel, 30/ combed cotton 40 18.4tex
Weft yarn：CF white coconut husk carbon fiber 30/ tencel, 30/ combed cotton 40 18.4tex
End count：393.5 root/10cm
Filling density：314.5 root/10cm
Grammes per square metre：140g/m2
Fabric tissue：2/2↖
2nd, the technological process of production
Winder → warp, slurry join → wear (knot) through → weaving → arrange → inspection → become bag → put in storage
3rd, processing parameter and key problem in technology
3.1st, intelligent warp, slurry combination machine
3.1.1, type：ASGA236-360.
3.1.2, wind the determination principle of bar number：Often flower circulation is larger for this kind, and radical up to 208, for giving full play to The maximum limit of bobbin cradle capacity, reduce winding times, during warping, the winding radical of every is designed as 416, be just 2 complete Whole flower type.The total quantity of warps of fabric is 5824, and the woven total quantity of warps of double width is 11648, therefore can be by 11648 warp thread Produced in the ratio of 416 every, total winding bar number is 28, strip width is 114.3mm, displacement preset value is 1.02mm.
3.1.3, the tension in Warping configuration of warping sizing machine：
Warp tension zonal control, proparea tension force, middle area tension force, back zone tension force press large, medium and small tension scheme, and tension force is big Little being mainly is realized by surrounded by angle when adjusting unwinding yarn, and every side yarn tension adds 3 grams.
3.1.4, slashing technique technical essential
Sizing operation is the key of weaving engineering, can improve the weavability of warp thread by sizing.Formulate during this fabric sizing The technique thinking of " enhancing, antifriction, guarantor stretch, paste FUMAO plumage " is preferably strong with cotton fiber adhesion, penetration is strong, easy leasing Formula of size, we have selected this slurry of CP-L, and this slurry is good with cotton fiber affinity, and serosity is easy to penetrate in yarn Portion, and the cohesiveness of serous coat is little, dry strand of distinguishing is brisk, and serous coat is complete, and secondary filoplume is few.Because warp thread is compact spinning, yarn body is tied Structure denser, the rate of sizing is than common RING SPINNING 32sCan be low by 1～2%, this kind rate of sizing is set to 9～10%, can meet weaving Demand.Each area tension force particularly wet area tension force should grasp bigger than normal, in case compact spinning tresses, hits dent.We are setting sizing During technological parameter, follow strictly the process route of " two high is low ", design slurry solid content is 11%, slurry viscosity 6～6.5 seconds (3# standard funnel), squeezing roller pressure adopts high pressure, and II fast pressure set points are 17～18kN, higher squeezing pressure, and serosity oozes Permeability can be good, and the roundness of yarn is high, closely knit between fiber, and the filoplume that yam surface is dissociated is easy to be affixed to yarn body, yarn more resistant to Mill.The low grasp of slurry groove temperature, prevents yarn from discoloring or staining.
3.2nd, beaming
To pour into wound on the warp thread on cylinder and loom weaving could be gone up on beam of a loom.Passed by belt between cylinder and beam of a loom Dynamic, Pneumatic Pressure, design of pressure is 5MPa.Beaming displacement preset value is set as 1.02mm.
3.3rd, gait operation
Because this kind fabric end count only has 393.5/10cm, warp-wise tightness is not too big, will select suitable porter, such as Fruit reed enters that number is many, then cloth noodles shadow is serious, has obvious open reed to produce, affects cloth cover attractive in appearance；If it is few that reed enters number, warp thread exists Can be very serious with dent friction during weaving, broken end increases.We determined that reed enters number is 2, and porter is 44.25#(made in Great Britain).This kind Flower pattern is complicated, and dyed yarn circulation radical is many, and operation easier of gaiting is very big, first should wear in strict accordance with the Warp Tension Test order of shades of colour Heald, then carry out plugging in reed, the part put on to be checked during plug in reed, in case error.The warp thread being plugged need to be another in reed Simultaneously have knotting, prevent yarn tail in handling process from coming off.
3.4th, loom production technology
This fabric is low through broadwise tightness, and the cloth cover easily side's of appearance eye fault, for making cloth cover full grains, the back rest and warp stop frame Height will raise, artificial increase levels warp tension difference, and top line is easy to because tension force is little protrude in cloth cover, Fang Xian Cloth cover is plentiful.The fabric tissue of this kind selects 2/2, coordinates the color yarn arrangement of different colours, and fabric is high in color stereovision, adjacent Between color, transition is natural.During weaving, the warp thread lease rods of different colours separates, one be in order to prevent twist head, two be in order to It is easy to block lathe work operation.This kind weft yarn color alignment is extremely complex, and wefting insertion order is mainly passed through to move in loom input through keyboard Make two or four weft accumulators of instruction commander to realize, four weft accumulators that we select carry out mixed latitude, reduce barriness defect Point produces.The dust producing during weaving often carries the color of two kinds of warp thread, if adhere to cause broadwise on the detecting head of bobbin feeler Mistakenly stop, or because dust blocking makes auxiliary nozzle air current freely not cause looped weft fault, ride cleaning, timely removing machine therefore to be strengthened Dust on platform.

Claims (2)

1. a kind of colouring method of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn, is characterized in that
The raw material choice method of described white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn is：
Tencel fiber LF requires to include：Length be 37.13mm, fineness be 1.35dtex, strongly be 4.86cN/cm, regain For 9.62%；
The requiring to include of white coconut husk Carbon fibe：Length is 37.31mm, fineness is 1.60dtex, regain is 9.88%；
Cotton fiber index request includes：Average rank is 3.0, principal length is 29mm, fineness is 5900Nm, mic value is 3.9th, short fiber content be 7.3%, percentage of impurity be 1.1%, regain be 7.6%；
The colouring method of described white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn is：
The requiring to include of a, device configuration and technological process：
Metal → carry out pre-treatment → carry out dyeing → adopt cylinder using tube cylinder using tube cylinder is carried out using slack winder Sub- yarn Efficient dehydrator carries out being dehydrated → carry out drying using radio frequency dryer → tight cylinder is carried out using compact form bobbin-winding machine；
B, technological requirement include：
In metal step：Cylinder yarn density is 0.33～0.35g/cm3, Weight control is in the range of 700～750g；
During metal, winding tension should control in 0.3～0.45g/dtex；
In pre-treatment step：Using acid tencel enzyme Hontonzyme PA process；
In staining procedure：Dyestuff is a chloro-s-triazine group is bridge formation base, introduces vinyl sulfone(RemzaolHuo Xingranliaohuoxingjituan) on the dye matrix through screening Sulphuric acid vinegar group.
2. colouring method according to claim 1, is characterized in that in described step b, the usage amount of acid tencel enzyme is 1～ 1.5g/L, process time is 30min.
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