CN105544205A - 一种透气保暖空气层面料 - Google Patents
一种透气保暖空气层面料 Download PDFInfo
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- CN105544205A CN105544205A CN201511007692.3A CN201511007692A CN105544205A CN 105544205 A CN105544205 A CN 105544205A CN 201511007692 A CN201511007692 A CN 201511007692A CN 105544205 A CN105544205 A CN 105544205A
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- fabric
- colloidal sol
- chitosan
- air layer
- wool
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- QEDXSHCYPROEOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-phosphanylpropanoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCP QEDXSHCYPROEOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- MYMOFIZGZYHOMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dioxygen Chemical compound O=O MYMOFIZGZYHOMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种透气保暖空气层面料，由镂空面料和空气层辅料粘接或缝合而成，镂空面料的制备方法包括羊毛面料预处理、配置壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液、整理和焙烘干燥等步骤。本发明通过采用镂空面料与空气层辅料粘接或缝合而成，面料透湿和保温性能好，面料制备过程中，离子液体对羊毛进行预处理，并采用壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液对羊毛面料进行整理，由于整理液中的组分之间发生缩合反应，在羊毛面料的表面交联成具有一定刚性的薄膜，使羊毛面料具有抗毡缩的性能，阻止羊毛纤维恢复原位的倾向，羊毛面料微观结构趋于紧实，经激光冲孔处理后，孔口处的羊毛面料不易起毛，而且冲孔的孔型稳定。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及面料技术领域，具体涉及一种透气保暖空气层面料。
背景技术
镂空面料按照成孔方式分为两种：一种通过设置编织方法制造织造而成，另一种则采用激光冲孔制得。镂空面料多见于合成纤维所制成的面料中，例如雪纺、涤纶等，未经整理的羊毛面料在水洗时经不断挤压、揉搓下会发生毡缩，从而引起镂空面料冲孔形状的变化，而且冲孔周围的毛料容易起毛，上述变化不断积累会影响面料的外观和服用性能，在一定程度上限制了羊毛的应用领域。毛面料毡缩的原因，传统的观点认为主要是由羊毛鳞片层结构所引起的定向摩擦效应和羊毛的卷曲、弹性所造成。因此，防止羊毛面料毡缩的方法便是建立在如何减少定向摩擦效应以及改变羊毛单方向运动倾向的基础上，归纳起来有破坏鳞片层和使聚合物(或称树脂)沉积在纤维表面这两个方面。
CN104153195A中公开了一种先采用三(2-羧乙基)膦(TCEP)对羊毛面料进行前处理，使羊毛纤维角蛋白中的二硫键断裂形成具有较高活性的巯基，然后使2-丙烯酸-(2-羟基-1，3-亚丙基)二[氧基(2-羟基-3，1-亚丙基)]酯(GDA)与经过TCEP前处理的羊毛面料反应，即碳碳双键与巯基发生反应，通过化学键合法将富含羟基的分子链引入到羊毛蛋白质分子中，经过处理后的制品具有防毡缩功能。CN103031704B则公开了一种采用超声波作用下对羊毛面料进行氯化预处理，然后依次经还原脱氯、酶处理和酶失活处理步骤，且氯化预处理与酶处理的结合，有效地提高了纤维纵向的剥鳞均匀性，从而达到了羊毛面料的防毡缩效果。上述两种方法涵盖了两种防毡缩处理的方法，前者在羊毛表面引入接枝基团，面料的手感会因为涂层的存在而受到显着影响，后者不可避免的会导致纤维结构松弛，不利于镂空面料的保形。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服现有技术中存在的缺陷，提供一种的冲孔形状稳定、孔体周围面料不易起毛的透气保暖空气层面料。
为实现上述技术效果，本发明的技术方案为：一种透气保暖空气层面料，其特征在于，由镂空面料和空气层辅料粘接或缝合而成，镂空面料的制备方法包括如下步骤：
S1：将干燥的羊毛面料浸渍于含有可溶性氯化稀土的离子液体中，微波加热2～5min，降至室温，保持20～40min，将羊毛面料取出，用乙醇清洗，烘干；
S2：配置壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的主要组成为壳聚糖、二氧化锌、有机多元酸、水，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的pH至为3.5～5，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为0.5～3%，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的锌含量为1.5～3.5%；
S3：将S1的羊毛面料浸渍在S2所得壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中，加热至60～70℃，保温下轧液至轧余率为75～85%，浸轧次数为1～2次；
S4：对S3所得面料在100～120℃下焙烘干燥，采用激光冲孔设备对羊毛面料进行冲孔处理，得到羊毛激光冲孔镂空面料。
S1中采用离子液体预处理羊毛面料，通过微波加热使羊毛鳞片层之间或孔隙中的水分首先受热扩散至离子液体中，加热后的羊毛纤维鳞片出现剥离现象，同时离子液体充分润湿羊毛鳞片并缓慢溶解鳞片的角蛋白，增加了离子液体与羊毛鳞片之间接触面积，降温后，孔隙的负压状态将离子液体吸收至孔隙内，加之稀土离子的强渗透性，加速离子液体的渗透，乙醇清洗后大部分的离子液体和氯化稀土离子溶解到乙醇中，少部分的稀土离子由于静电吸附在羊毛孔隙内；稀土离子加速壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液向羊毛纤维中的渗透，锌溶胶的羟基、壳聚糖的羧基、氨基和羊毛纤维表面的极性基团交联成膜，锌溶胶胶粒被绑缚在壳聚糖网状结构中，膜体经冷却收缩使得羊毛之间的间隙收缩，膜体的存在可阻止羊毛纤维恢复原位的倾向，羊毛面料微观结构趋于紧实。
优选的技术方案为，S2中壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的制备过程为：将壳聚糖溶解于有机酸水溶液中的壳聚糖混合溶液，向氧化锌溶胶中加水稀释，然后将壳聚糖混合溶液搅拌下加入氧化锌溶胶中，用有机酸调节pH值，超声振荡5～20min；有机多元酸为选自C4～C6的二元酸中的至少一种。酸性条件下壳聚糖充分溶解，超声震荡有助于使锌溶胶颗粒均匀分散在壳聚糖溶液中，有机酸在线型分子之间起架桥作用，可作为交联剂参与壳聚糖相互键合交联生成复杂的网状结构，最终烘干成膜。
优选的技术方案为，所述壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中还含有成膜剂，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中成膜剂的重量百分比为0.2～2%，所述成膜剂为水溶性树脂。水溶性树脂参与壳聚糖的交联反应，增加成膜物质所形成的薄膜与面料之间的界面粘接牢度，有助于调节薄膜的弹性和柔软性，使之与面料的弹性和柔软性相一致。
优选的技术方案为，所述水溶性树脂为选自聚氨酯树脂、松香树脂和乳香树脂中的至少一种。聚氨酯树脂、松香树脂和乳香树脂均能增加壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的粘性和流变性能，而且，上述三种树脂中所含的疏水组分有助于提高面料表面所成薄膜的疏水性，阻止渗入面料表面的水分进一步向面料内部渗透，保证穿着者的服用舒适性。
进一步优选的技术方案为，所述水溶性树脂由聚氨酯树脂和乳香树脂混合而成，水溶性树脂中聚氨酯树脂的含量为80～95%。乳香树脂与聚氨酯树脂同时加入，两者混合交联分散在壳聚糖和锌溶胶形成壳聚糖网状结构中，有助于增加薄膜的透明度，另外还可以使面料具有一定的保健香氛功能。
为了进一步改进在面料表面所形成的薄膜的柔软性，优选的技术方案为，所述壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液还包含羟基增塑剂，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中增塑剂的重量百分比为0.05～0.5%。羟基增塑剂的氢键与壳聚糖的活性氨基发生氢键作用，替代了原有的壳聚糖分子链之间或壳聚糖与锌溶胶氢键之间的极性连接，降低膜内刚性连接点的数量，从而使薄膜更柔软疏松，增加面料的透气性，进而增强面料的服用舒适性。
进一步有选的技术方案为，所述羟基增塑剂为甘油和/或乙二醇。采用小分子的甘油和/或乙二醇，更容易进入壳聚糖分子间之间占据连接点，相比之下，由于乙二醇的分子更小，因此使用在壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中得到的薄膜兼具良好的透气性和拒水性。
优选的技术方案为，所述离子液体与氯化稀土的重量之比为1：（0.001～0.005）。酸性溶液中壳聚糖带正电，氯化稀土的含量过大，会使羊毛纤维中的稀土离子残留过多，由于稀土离子带正电，使羊毛纤维的电负性减弱，从而影响壳聚糖与羊毛之间的吸附作用。
优选的技术方案为，所述可溶性氯化稀土为选自氯化镨、氯化钕、氯化钐和氯化钆中的至少一种。上述四种离子易于壳聚糖络合生成配合物，并有助于配合物与羊毛中的-SH、--NH2、-OH、-NH等活性中心结合，还可以与纤维中的胱氨酸残基结合，优化面料的防毡缩性能。
优选的技术方案为，所述可溶性氯化稀土为氯化镨和氯化钐混合而成，氯化镨占可溶性氯化稀土的重量百分比为20～50%。氯化镨和氯化钐对淋巴细胞转化及腹腔巨噬细胞吞噬功能均具有明显的促进作用，因此将氯化镨和氯化钐用于染液中，镨和钐两种稀土离子与壳聚糖生成的配合物沉积到面料表面，可赋予面料一定的还具有优良的抗菌性能。
本发明的优点和有益效果在于：
本发明通过采用两层镂空面料复合，并且两层面料的镂空处错位设置，可提升面料的透气和排湿性能，面料制备过程中，离子液体对羊毛进行预处理，并采用壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液对羊毛面料进行整理，由于整理液中的组分之间发生缩合反应，在羊毛面料的表面交联成具有一定刚性的薄膜，使羊毛面料具有抗毡缩的性能，阻止羊毛纤维恢复原位的倾向，羊毛面料微观结构趋于紧实，经激光冲孔处理后，孔口处的羊毛面料不易起毛，而且冲孔的孔型稳定；稀土离子、稀土离子与壳聚糖协同作用，还赋予了面料手感好、抗菌、吸湿透气等优点。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例，对本发明的具体实施方式作进一步描述。以下实施例仅用于更加清楚地说明本发明的技术方案，而不能以此来限制本发明的保护范围。
实施例1：
实施例1的透气保暖空气层面料，由镂空面料和空气层辅料粘接或缝合而成，镂空面料的制备方法包括如下步骤：
S1：将干燥的羊毛面料浸渍于含有可溶性氯化稀土氯化镧的离子液体中，微波加热2min，降至室温，保持20min，将羊毛面料取出，用乙醇清洗，烘干；离子液体与氯化稀土的重量之比为1：0.0005。
S2：配置壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的主要组成为壳聚糖、二氧化锌、有机多元酸、水，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的pH至为3.5，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为0.5%，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的锌含量为1.5%；
S3：将S1的羊毛面料浸渍在S2所得壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中，加热至60℃，保温下轧液至轧余率为75%，浸轧次数为1次；
S4：对S3所得面料在100℃下焙烘干燥，采用激光冲孔设备对羊毛面料进行冲孔处理，得到羊毛激光冲孔镂空面料。
S2中壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的制备过程为：将壳聚糖溶解于有机酸水溶液中的壳聚糖混合溶液，向氧化锌溶胶中加水稀释，然后将壳聚糖混合溶液搅拌下加入氧化锌溶胶中，用有机酸调节pH值，超声振荡5min；有机多元酸为柠檬酸。
实施例2
实施例2与实施例1的区别为：
S1：微波加热5min，保持40min；可溶性氯化稀土为氯化钕和氯化钆1:1混合。离子液体与氯化稀土的重量之比为1：0.001；可溶性氯化稀土为氯化镨和氯化钐混合而成，氯化镨占可溶性氯化稀土的重量百分比为20%。
S2：壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的pH至为5，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为3%，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的锌含量为3.5%；
S3：加热至70℃，保温下轧液至轧余率为85%，浸轧次数为2次；
S4：对S3所得面料在120℃下焙烘干燥。
S2中壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的制备过程中超声振荡20min；有机多元酸为衣康酸。
壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中还含有成膜剂，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中成膜剂的重量百分比为0.2%，成膜剂为松香树脂。
实施例3
实施例3与实施例2的区别为：
S1：微波加热3min，保持30min；可溶性氯化稀土为氯化钕和氯化钆1:1混合；离子液体与氯化稀土的重量之比为1：0.005；可溶性氯化稀土为氯化镨和氯化钐混合而成，氯化镨占可溶性氯化稀土的重量百分比为50%。
S2：壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的pH至为4.2，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为1.7%，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的锌含量为2.5%；
S3：加热至65℃，保温下轧液至轧余率为80%，浸轧次数为2次；
S4：对S3所得面料在110℃下焙烘干燥。
S2中壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的制备过程中超声振荡15min；有机多元酸为柠檬酸。
壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中成膜剂的重量百分比为2%，水溶性树脂由聚氨酯树脂和乳香树脂混合而成，水溶性树脂中聚氨酯树脂的含量为80%。
实施例4
实施例4与实施例3的区别在于：离子液体与氯化稀土的重量之比为1：0.003；可溶性氯化稀土为氯化镨和氯化钐混合而成，氯化镨占可溶性氯化稀土的重量百分比为35%；壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中成膜剂的重量百分比为1.1%，水溶性树脂由聚氨酯树脂和乳香树脂混合而成，水溶性树脂中聚氨酯树脂的含量为95%。壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液还包含羟基增塑剂甘油，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中增塑剂的重量百分比为0.05%。
实施例5
实施例5与实施例4的区别为：水溶性树脂中聚氨酯树脂的含量为87%；壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液还包含羟基增塑剂乙二醇，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中增塑剂的重量百分比为0.5%。
实施例6
实施例6与实施例5的区别为：壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中增塑剂的重量百分比为0.25%。增塑剂为甘油和乙二醇1:1混合。
对比例
对比例1中不采用离子液体预处理羊毛面料；对比例2中离子液体不含稀土元素；对比例的其他工艺参数及组成配比与实施例1相同。
实施例和对比例试样检测：
1、根据国际羊毛纺织品组织(IWTO)的测试方法TM31对未经处理的和处理后的羊毛面料的防毡缩性能进行评价。羊毛的松弛收缩率要服从于7A标准，其次要进行5次连续的5A水洗。实验结果为羊毛面料松弛后的毡缩百分比；
2、采用羊毛面料手感仪对羊毛面料的手感进行检测（Ⅰ～Ⅴ级，Ⅰ级柔软度最优）；
3、采用大肠杆菌和金黄色葡萄球菌对面料的抗菌性能进行检测（Ⅰ～Ⅴ级，Ⅰ级抗菌性能最优）。
试样检测值见下表：
对比例2没有加入氯化稀土元素，其面料的抗菌性能明显比实施例1-6差，抗菌性能最优的为实施例2-6，其中实施例4-6的抗菌性能最优。
耐洗性能测试：按照AATCC61-2003洗涤不褪色，家用和商用：加速方法测定。
本发明面料经激光冲孔处理后，根据耐洗性能测试对面料进行耐洗性检测，显微镜下观察对比冲孔的形状和起毛情况：经10次清洗后，实施例1-6的羊毛面料的形状变化和起毛均不明显。对比例1未经离子液体处理，羊毛表面的壳聚糖量略有减少，起毛量较多，对比例2离子液体中不含氯化稀土，起毛量少于对比例1。
双面镂空面料通过粘接复合，缩短了水蒸气由面料一侧向面料另一侧运动的路径，透湿性提升明显。羊毛面料作为空气层面料的表层，服用性能佳，光泽度高，作为冬季外穿面料使用时，由于空气层辅料中上下两层之间的空气不受衣服表面气流影响，空气层具有优良的保温效果。
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明技术原理的前提下，还可以做出若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。
Claims (10)
1.一种透气保暖空气层面料，其特征在于，由镂空面料和空气层辅料粘接或缝合而成，镂空面料的制备方法包括如下步骤：
S1：将干燥的羊毛面料浸渍于含有可溶性氯化稀土的离子液体中，微波加热2～5min，降至室温，保持20～40min，将羊毛面料取出，用乙醇清洗，烘干；
S2：配置壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的主要组成为壳聚糖、二氧化锌、有机多元酸、水，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的pH至为3.5～5，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为0.5～3%，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的锌含量为1.5～3.5%；
S3：将S1的羊毛面料浸渍在S2所得壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中，加热至60～70℃，保温下轧液至轧余率为75～85%，浸轧次数为1～2次；
S4：对S3所得面料在100～120℃下焙烘干燥，采用激光冲孔设备对羊毛面料进行冲孔处理，得到羊毛激光冲孔镂空面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的透气保暖空气层面料，其特征在于，S2中壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液的制备过程为：将壳聚糖溶解于有机酸水溶液中的壳聚糖混合溶液，向氧化锌溶胶中加水稀释，然后将壳聚糖混合溶液搅拌下加入氧化锌溶胶中，用有机酸调节pH值，超声振荡5～20min；有机多元酸为选自C4～C6的二元酸中的至少一种。
3.根据权利要求1所述的透气保暖空气层面料，其特征在于，所述壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中还含有成膜剂，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中成膜剂的重量百分比为0.2～2%，所述成膜剂为水溶性树脂。
4.根据权利要求3所述的透气保暖空气层面料，其特征在于，所述水溶性树脂为选自聚氨酯树脂、松香树脂和乳香树脂中的至少一种。
5.根据权利要求4所述的透气保暖空气层面料，其特征在于，所述水溶性树脂由聚氨酯树脂和乳香树脂混合而成，水溶性树脂中聚氨酯树脂的含量为80～95%。
6.根据权利要求1所述的透气保暖空气层面料，其特征在于，所述壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液还包含羟基增塑剂，壳聚糖锌溶胶整理液中增塑剂的重量百分比为0.05～0.5%。
7.根据权利要求6所述的透气保暖空气层面料，其特征在于，所述羟基增塑剂为甘油和/或乙二醇。
8.根据权利要求1所述的透气保暖空气层面料，其特征在于，所述离子液体与氯化稀土的重量之比为1：（0.001～0.005）。
9.根据权利要求8所述的透气保暖空气层面料，其特征在于，所述可溶性氯化稀土为选自氯化镨、氯化钕、氯化钐和氯化钆中的至少一种。
10.根据权利要求9所述的透气保暖空气层面料，其特征在于，所述可溶性氯化稀土为氯化镨和氯化钐混合而成，氯化镨占可溶性氯化稀土的重量百分比为20～50%。
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