CN104887586A - Cosmetic composition capable of improving skin appearance - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition capable of improving skin appearance Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104887586A
CN104887586A CN201510342535.1A CN201510342535A CN104887586A CN 104887586 A CN104887586 A CN 104887586A CN 201510342535 A CN201510342535 A CN 201510342535A CN 104887586 A CN104887586 A CN 104887586A
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cosmetic composition
skin appearance
vitamin
peel
citrus reticulata
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CN104887586B (en
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麦杰英
谢付凤
李雪竹
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SHANGHAI NEW COGI COSMETIC CO., LTD.
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Guangzhou Liby Enterprise Group Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses cosmetic composition capable of improving skin appearance. The cosmetic composition comprises 0.1%-10% of citrus peel extracts and/or 0.1%-20% of vitamin B3 compounds. The prepared cosmetic composition can appropriately cooperate with various components excluding the citrus peel extracts and the vitamin B3 compounds and generally used for cosmetic composition as required, for instance, an emulsifier, a synthetic macromolecule compound, natural water-soluble polymer, semisynthetic water-soluble polymer, inorganic water-soluble polymer, an ultraviolet light absorber, a metal ion chelating agent, low alcohol, polyhydric alcohol, monosaccharide, oligosaccharide, polysaccharide, amino acid, organic amine, a preservative, a PH (potential of hydrogen) regulator, vitamins, phytoextraction essence, an antioxidant, an antioxidant aid, perfume, water, soothing oil and the like. The citrus peel extracts and the vitamin B3 compounds are combined for use, the brightness and whiteness of skin can be effectively improved, skin pigmentation and dull yellow complexion can be prevented, and the cosmetic composition can remarkably improve the skin appearance.

Description

A kind of cosmetic composition improving skin appearance
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of cosmetic composition, belong to daily chemical products technical field, particularly relate to a kind of improve skin appearance cosmetic composition.
Background technology
The color of skin is mainly decided by distribution melanic in skin and quantity.Melanin produces in melanocyte, wherein there is enzyme in melanocyte, as tryrosinase.These enzymes form the melanin of pitchy by oxidation reaction, and the amino acid tyrosine be present in oxidation reaction in body aggregates into a matrix.The melanin formed transfers to epidermal keratinocytes by the dendron of melanocyte.In human body, melanic enzyme of not degrading.When keratinocyte is separated from epidermis, melanin removes from skin, if melanic generation exceedes needs, it can cause pigmentation too much, and as moth patch, freckle or speckle, this is unfavorable for beauty.
Known multiple on melanin generates the influential factor of tool, and the stimulation that produces melanin of ultraviolet and consequent pigmentation are important at cosmetic field.Be added to the suppression for preventing the basic function of Pigmented medicine from comprising many tyrosinase activities of brilliant white cosmetics, to the suppression of the generation of tryrosinase, melanin is generated to the suppression of medium, to the suppression of existing melanic reduction and photooxidant, promote that melanin is removed, and ultraviolet blocking-up, existing many such skin lightening products on market, as comprised kojic acid, arbutin, hydroquinone, vitamin A, vitamin C and their derivant.But due to problems such as the safety to skin, stability in the formulation and lightening effect are not enough, the on probation of them is restricted.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to, overcome the defect that existing cosmetic composition exists, and provide a kind of improvement skin appearance newly cosmetic composition, it contains peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract or vitamin b 3 compound, and tool has clear improvement face complexion effect.
The object of the invention to solve the technical problems realizes by the following technical solutions.According to the present invention propose a kind of improve skin appearance cosmetic composition, described compositions comprises peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract and/or vitamin b 3 compound.
The present invention improves the cosmetic composition of skin appearance, and described its effective ingredient of peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract is flavonoid, has O-polymethoxyflavone structure; In flavonoid, polymethoxyflavone class is the characteristic component of citrus, does not almost have in other veterinary antibiotics, and it is the material replacing 5 methoxyl groups on flavonoid, shown in the following chemical formula 1 of flavonoid.
Chemical formula 1:
This peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract can obtain in order to below method:
After peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco pure water, carry out drying.After being pulverized by dewatered peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco, utilize merceration extraction method at ambient temperature, propose effective ingredient through 40-48 hour.After the content extracted utilizes 250um object screen cloth once to filter, by centrifugalize, obtain supernatant.Again above-mentioned supernatant is filtered in order with 3um, 1um, 0.5um object filter paper afterwards.Add 1.3-butanediol, then obtain peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract with after 0.2-0.3um object filter paper filtering.
The present invention improves the cosmetic composition of skin appearance, and described peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract is purchased from ICHIMARU PHARCOS CO., and LTD., commodity are called ManarinClear.In the present invention, the content of preferred peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract is 0.1-10%, is more selected from 0.5-5%, lower than 0.1% when, substantially do not improve the effect of skin appearance, higher than 10% time, the change of product taste can be caused.
The present invention improves the cosmetic composition of skin appearance, and described vitamin b 3 compound is the compound to having following formula:
Chemical formula 2:
Wherein R is-CONH 2(nicotiamide) ,-COOH (nicotinic acid) or-CH 2oH (nicotinyl alcohol), the salt of its derivant and any above-mentioned substance.The illustrative derivant of said vitamin B3 compound comprises nicotinate, comprises nicotinic acid, cigarette base amino acid whose non-vascular dilatancy ester, the nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.
The suitable esters of nicotinic acid comprises C1-C22, preferred C1-C16, more preferably the nicotinate of C1-C16 alcohol.Alcohol can be direct-connected or side chain, ring-type or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (comprising aromatics), and to replace and unsubstituted.It is expansionary that this ester is preferably non-vascular.The non-vascular dilatancy ester of nicotinic acid comprises tocopheryl nicotinate and hexanicotinate; Preferably tocopheryl nicotinate.
Other derivant of vitamin b 3 compound is the derivant of nicotiamide, and it comes from the replacement of one or more nicotiamide group hydrogen.The limiting examples of nicotinamide derivates used herein comprises cigarette base aminoacid, such as, derived from activation nicotinic acid (as nicotinic acid azide and cigarette base chlorine) and amino acid whose reaction, and the cigarette base alcohol ester of organic carboxyl acid (C1-C18).The instantiation of this analog derivative comprises nitocinoylglycine and cigarette base hydroxamic acid.
The cigarette base alcohol ester of illustrative comprises the nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acid salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic, Palmic acid etc.The limiting examples of vitamin b 3 compound is here the chloro-nicotiamide of 2-, 6-aminonicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N, nicamide, N-(methylol)-nicotiamide, quinolinic acid acid imide, N-nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, neopiran, nicotine aldehyde .gamma.-pyridinecarboxylic acid, Thionicotinamide, nialamide, 1-(3-pyridylmethyl) urea, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid Hexalin and niaprazine.
The example of said vitamin B3 compound is well known in the art, and can purchased from multiple commodity producer, as DSM company, Long Sha company, sigma chemical company, Aldrich chemical company.
Here one or more vitamin b 3 compounds can be used.Preferred vitamin b 3 compound is nicotiamide and tocopheryl nicotinate, more preferably nicotiamide.Vitamin b 3 compound can be pure material substantially, or from the extract that suitable physical and the Chemical Decomposition of natural source (as plant) obtain.Vitamin b 3 compound is preferably substantially pure, preferred clean in nature.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably comprises 0.1% to 20%, is preferably the vitamin b 3 compound of 1-5%.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises acceptable carrier on Dermatology, combine peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract and vitamin b 3 compound wherein, active matter is made to be delivered on skin with suitable concentration, therefore carrier can be the diluent, dispersant, solvent etc. of active matter, and it makes the concentration that active matter can be suitable apply and be evenly distributed to selected destination.Carrier can filler, diluent, solvent extender etc. containing solid-state, semisolid acceptable on one or more skins and liquid state.Carrier can be solid-state, semisolid and liquid state.The concentration of carrier according to selected carrier, the desired concn of basis and optionally composition and changing,
The type of used carrier of the present invention depends on the product form needed for compositions, and topical compositions of the present invention can make many product forms known in the art.These include but not limited to: thin liquid, emulsion, cream frost, gel, spray, foundation cream, eye cosmetic, lip pomade etc.
In order to improve aesthetic, give skin-nourishing, prevent quality deterioration etc., can in the scope not damaging effect of the present invention, make in cosmetic composition with the present invention, suitably can coordinate the various compositions being generally used for shape material compositions except mentioned component as required.Specifically, such as can list: emulsifying agent, synthetic macromolecular compound, water-soluble macromolecule, semi-synthetic water soluble polymer, Inorganic water-soluble macromolecule, UV absorbent, metal ion chelation agent, lower alcohol, polyhydric alcohol, monosaccharide, oligosaccharide, polysaccharide, aminoacid, organic amine, antiseptic, PH regulator, vitamins, plant extraction elite, antioxidant, antioxidation auxiliary agent, spice, water, skin moistening oils and fats etc.These compositions can be one or more combinations.
This emulsifying agent can be non-ionic, anion or cationic emulsifying agent, and it can be: polysorbate-20, sorbitan stearate, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-25, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-30 dimerization hydroxy stearic acid ester, 20-22 alcohol phosphate ester, PEG-20 methyl sesquistearate, KF6017, Phosphoric acid monohexadecyl ester potassium, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride etc.
This synthetic macromolecular compound is thickening stabilizing agent, can be sodium acrylate copolymer, polyacrylic acid, polymethylacrylic acid, acrylic acid-methacrylic acid alkyl ester copolymer, esters of acrylic acid/C10-30 alkylol acrylamide acid esters cross linked polymer, carboxy vinyl polymer (carbomer), (methyl) acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol (methyl) acrylate/polyoxyethylene C10-30 alkyl ether (methyl) acrylate, sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyl taurine copolymer etc.
This natural water soluble polymer can be: arabic gum, Tragacanth, galactan, guar gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan, pectin, alginate jelly, starch, dextran, succinoglycan, amylopectin, collagen, gelatin etc.
This semisynthetic water soluble polymer can be: carboxymethyl starch, methylhydroxypropyl starch, methylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, microcrystalline Cellulose, sodium alginate, alginic acid propylene glycol ester etc.
This Inorganic water-soluble macromolecule can be: bentonite, Magnesiumaluminumsilicate, LAPONITE, Strese Hofmann's hectorite. etc.
This UV absorbent can be: the benzophenone series etc. such as the cinnamic acid such as salicylic acid series, cinnamic acid monooctyl ester series, the 4-hydroxyl-3-carboxyl benzophenones such as ortho-aminobenzoic acid series, the ethylhexyl salicylate such as para-amino benzoic acid series, menthol-N-S cetyl o-aminobenzoa such as para-amino benzoic acid monoglyceride.UV absorbent can be used alone and also can be used in combination.
This metal ion chelation agent can be: EDETATE SODIUM, EDTA, hydroxyethane diphosphonic acid etc.
This lower alcohol can be: ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, the tert-butyl alcohol etc.
This polyhydric alcohol can be: glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, sorbitol etc.
This monosaccharide can be: the alduronic acid etc. such as the amino sugars such as the deoxysaccharide such as octose, L-fucose, GLUCOSAMINE, D-galacturonic acid such as the heptose such as hexose, aldopentose, octulose such as the pentose such as tetrose, D-R, D-Glucose such as the triose such as D-glyceraldehyde, D-erythrose.
This oligosaccharide can be: lactose, cottonseed sugar, planteose etc.
This polysaccharide can be: chondroitin sulfate, chitosan, galactan etc.
This aminoacid can be basic amino acid, the glutathion etc. such as the neutral amino acids such as threonine, sulfydryl lysine amino acid derivativges etc.
This organic amine can be: monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, AMPD etc.
This antiseptic can be: methyl parabens, propyl para-hydroxybenzoate phenoxyethanol, diazonium imidazolidinyl urea, iodopropynyl alcohol butyl meglumine acid fat etc.
This PH regulator can be: sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, citric acid etc.
This vitamins can be: vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E, pantothenic acid, vitamin B3 and their derivant etc.
This plant extraction elite can be: Aloe, Radix Hamamelidis Mollis, Fructus Cucumidis sativi, Fructus Citri Limoniae, lavandula angustifolia, Flos Rosae Rugosae etc.
This antioxidant can be: tocopherols, dibenzylatiooluene, Butylated hydroxyanisole, gallate ester etc.
This antioxidant auxiliary agent can be: phosphonic acids, maleic acid, malonic acid, phytic acid, EDTA etc.
This skin moistening oils and fats comprises the conventional emollient in personal-care supplies field, comprises natural plant grease, synthetic ester oil and natural animal oils and fats and wax class emollient.Can be enumerated as: liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin, Parleam, squalane, olive oil, heronsbill seed oil, Semen Tritici aestivi germ oil, Oleum sesami, Jojoba oil, macadimia nut oil, polydimethylsiloxane, cyclomethicone etc.
By technique scheme, the advantage that the present invention has and beneficial effect are:
1) contain peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract and vitamin b 3 compound in cosmetic composition of the present invention, effectively can improve dull-looking skin, bright color.
2) product that technical scheme of the present invention is made can be placed stable for a long time, solves this series products and places allochroic technical barrier for a long time.
Detailed description of the invention
The invention discloses a kind of cosmetic composition improving skin appearance, it comprises the peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract of 0.1-10% and/or the vitamin b 3 compound of 0.1-20%.This its active matter of peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract is the flavonoid with O-polymethoxyflavone structure.The illustrative derivant of this vitamin b 3 compound comprises nicotinate, comprises nicotinic acid, cigarette base amino acid whose non-vascular dilatancy ester, the nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.
Peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract of the present invention can obtain in order to below method:
After peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco pure water, carry out drying.After being pulverized by dewatered peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco, utilize merceration extraction method at ambient temperature, propose effective ingredient through 40-48 hour.After the content extracted utilizes 250um object screen cloth once to filter, by centrifugalize, obtain supernatant.Again above-mentioned supernatant is filtered in order with 3um, 1um, 0.5um object filter paper afterwards.Add 1.3-butanediol, then obtain peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract with after 0.2-0.3um object filter paper filtering.
Below by way of concrete preferred embodiment and effect test example content, the present invention is described in further detail, but the present invention is not limited in following embodiment.If no special instructions, following percentage ratio (%) is weight percentage.
embodiment 1-3
Cosmetic composition of the present invention is made essence lotion its preparation method and can be expressed as follows:
Preparation method: will drop in deionized water after glycerol, 1.3-butanediol, hyaluronic acid, HANSHENGJIAO mix homogeneously, then EDTA-2Na, nicotiamide are dropped in deionized water, be warming up to 85 DEG C, insulated and stirred is after 20 minutes, be cooled to 45 DEG C, add peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract, essence/antiseptic, be cooled to room temperature.
What table 1 showed is that the cosmetic composition of embodiment of the present invention 1-3 makes essence lotion.
The essence lotion compositions of table 1 embodiment 1-3 and blank example 1-3 formulations reference
Improve face's skin color evaluation:
For confirming the improvement effect of skin complexion, test using 20-40 year healthy women 60 as object, these people are divided into 6 groups, often organize 10 people, use sample to each group, make experimenter be coated on whole face, apply 2 every day, coating used colorimeter (Minolta CM-3500d) to measure the change (Δ L) of the change of colour brightness in 4 weeks .4 weeks afterwards altogether, thus evaluated the degree improving skin complexion.The results are shown in shown in following table 2:
The product colour brightness measuring of table 2 embodiment 1-3 and blank example 1-3
Sample sets ΔL
Blank example 1 0.01
Blank example 2 0.15
Blank example 3 0.55
Embodiment 1 3.58
Embodiment 2 4.12
Embodiment 3 4.55
As can be seen from above-mentioned table 2, embodiment of the present invention 1-3 is compared with blank example 1-3, can be drawn by the Δ L of more blank sample, the present composition has the effect of very excellent raising skin brightness, a kind of composition effect be used alone in compositions is obvious not, highlight effect and only under both synergism, just have obvious effect, along with the increase of compositions institute use amount, product efficacy is more obvious.
embodiment 4-8
Cosmetic composition of the present invention is made bright skin emulsion its preparation method and can be expressed as follows:
Deionized water, card ripple 941 are dropped in aqueous phase pot, stirs, drop into aqueous phase pot after then 1.3-butanediol, hyaluronic acid, HANSHENGJIAO, EDTA-2Na being uniformly dispersed, be warming up to 85 DEG C, insulated and stirred 20 minutes.Tocopheryl nicotinate, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-25, squalane, Jojoba oil are dropped in oil phase pot, is warming up to 85 DEG C, insulated and stirred 20 minutes.Be evacuated in emulsifying pot by aqueous phase pot and oil phase pot Raw, open homogenizer homogenizing after 5 minutes, be cooled to 45 DEG C, peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract, essence/antiseptic, be cooled to room temperature.
What following table 3 showed is that cosmetic composition of the present invention makes bright skin emulsion.
The bright skin emulsion of table 3 embodiment 4-8 and blank example formulations reference
For confirming the improvement effect of skin complexion, test using 20-40 year healthy women 60 as object, these people are divided into 6 groups, often organize 10 people, use sample to each group, make experimenter be coated on whole face, apply 2 every day, coating used colorimeter (Minolta CM-3500d) to measure the change (Δ L) of the change of colour brightness in 4 weeks .4 weeks afterwards altogether, thus evaluated the degree improving skin complexion.The results are shown in following table:
The product colour brightness measuring of table 4 embodiment 4-8 and blank example
Sample sets ΔL
Blank 0.03
Embodiment 4 1.01
Embodiment 5 1.51
Embodiment 6 2.15
Embodiment 7 4.68
Embodiment 8 5.22
As can be seen from above-mentioned table 4, embodiment of the present invention 1-3 is compared with blank example 1-3, and can be drawn by the Δ L of more blank sample, the present composition has the effect of very excellent raising skin brightness.
The above, it is only preferred embodiment of the present invention, not any pro forma restriction is done to the present invention, therefore everyly do not depart from technical solution of the present invention content, the any simple modification done above embodiment according to technical spirit of the present invention, equivalent variations and modification, all still belong in the scope of technical solution of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. improve a cosmetic composition for skin appearance, it is characterized in that: described compositions comprises peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract and/or vitamin b 3 compound.
2. the cosmetic composition improving skin appearance according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described its active matter of peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract is the flavonoid with O-polymethoxyflavone structure.
3. the cosmetic composition improving skin appearance according to claim 2, is characterized in that: described peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract can obtain in order to below method:
1) by after peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco pure water, drying is carried out;
2) after being pulverized by dewatered peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco, utilize merceration extraction method at ambient temperature, propose effective ingredient through 40-48 hour;
3) after the content extracted utilizes 250um object screen cloth once to filter, by centrifugalize, supernatant is obtained;
4) more above-mentioned supernatant is filtered in order with 3um, 1um, 0.5um object filter paper after, add 1.3-butanediol, more both obtained with after 0.2-0.3um object filter paper filtering.
4. the cosmetic composition improving skin appearance according to claim 1, is characterized in that: by weight percentage, and described peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract accounts for the 0.1-10% of total composition.
5. the cosmetic composition improving skin appearance according to claim 1, is characterized in that: by weight percentage, and described peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract accounts for the 0.5-5% of total composition.
6. the cosmetic composition improving skin appearance according to claim 1, is characterized in that: by weight percentage, and described vitamin b 3 compound accounts for the 0.1-20% of total composition.
7. the cosmetic composition improving skin appearance according to claim 5, is characterized in that: by weight percentage, and described vitamin b 3 compound accounts for the 1-5% of total composition.
8. the cosmetic composition improving skin appearance according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described vitamin b 3 compound is the compound to having following formula:
Wherein R is-CONH 2(nicotiamide) ,-COOH (nicotinic acid) or-CH 2oH (nicotinyl alcohol), the salt of its derivant and any above-mentioned substance.
9. the cosmetic composition of the improvement skin appearance according to any one of claim 1-7, it is characterized in that: also comprise further: acceptable carrier on Dermatology, combine peel of Citrus reticulata Blanco extract and vitamin b 3 compound wherein, make active matter be delivered on skin with suitable concentration, therefore carrier can be the diluent, dispersant, solvent etc. of active matter.
10. the cosmetic composition of the improvement skin appearance according to any one of claim 1-7, it is characterized in that: also comprise further: emulsifying agent, synthetic macromolecular compound, water-soluble macromolecule, semi-synthetic water soluble polymer, Inorganic water-soluble macromolecule, UV absorbent, metal ion chelation agent, lower alcohol, polyhydric alcohol, monosaccharide, oligosaccharide, polysaccharide, aminoacid, organic amine, antiseptic, PH regulator, vitamins, plant extraction elite, antioxidant, antioxidation auxiliary agent, spice, water, one or more combinations in skin moistening oils and fats.
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CN112791003A (en) * 2021-01-26 2021-05-14 上海澄穆生物科技有限公司 Use of retinoic acid receptor agonist compounds in cosmetic compositions

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CN112791003A (en) * 2021-01-26 2021-05-14 上海澄穆生物科技有限公司 Use of retinoic acid receptor agonist compounds in cosmetic compositions

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