The preparation method of a kind of velvet fabric blank, velvet fabric and velvet fabric
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of velvet fabric blank, velvet fabric and preparation method thereof, particularly relate to continuous synthetic fibre long filament velvet fabric blank, velvet fabric and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Velvet fabric is the large main materials of clothes one autumn and winter, not only fashion but also warming.Current, the processing and fabricating technology for chemical fibre velvet fabric has sea island filament fibrillation, sanding, plucking, napping, cut pile, and velvet coating etc., adopt above-mentioned PROCESS FOR TREATMENT fabric, all have damage to the brute force of fabric, the durability of fabric is reduced, the COLOR FASTNESS of fabric is undesirable, easily fades; Velvet is not strong, pro-skin comfortableness is poor.When adopting sanding, napping, cut pile technical finesse fabric, easily drop tiny staple fibre, easily causes respiratory hypersensitivity.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is, for adopting the deficiency that prior art velvet fabric strength is low, velvet is not strong, providing fabric blank, velvet fabric and preparation method thereof that a kind of velvet is strong, powerful good.
For achieving the above object, following technical scheme is adopted to solve the technology of the present invention problem:
First object of the present invention is to provide a kind of velvet fabric blank, formed by warp thread and weft yarns, it is characterized in that, described warp thread and weft yarn organize floating-point quite or the one side of fabric organize floating-point based on warp thread, floating-point is organized based on weft yarn at the another side of fabric, described warp thread is polyamide fibre, and described weft yarn is the complex yarn of modification high convergency polyamide fibre and ordinary polyester, and the mass ratio of polyamide fibre and terylene is 6:4 ~ 7:3;
The complex yarn of described modification high convergency polyamide fibre and ordinary polyester is 50D/24F ~ 75D/24F.
Second object of the present invention is to provide a kind of velvet fabric, formed by warp thread and weft yarns, it is characterized in that, described warp thread is polyamide fibre, described weft yarn is the complex yarn of modification high convergency polyamide fibre and ordinary polyester, the ratio of polyamide fibre and terylene is 6:4 ~ 7:3, described warp thread and weft yarn organize floating-point suitable, have in two surface distributed up and down of fabric and become the super fine evenly distributed small looped pile formed by compound silk fibrillation, or the one side of fabric organizes floating-point based on warp thread, floating-point is organized based on weft yarn at the another side of fabric, be distributed with organizing the fabric face of floating-point based on warp thread and become the super fine evenly distributed small looped pile formed by compound silk fibrillation.
The complex yarn of described modification high convergency polyamide fibre and ordinary polyester is 50D/24F ~ 75D/24F.
3rd object of the present invention is to provide a kind of preparation method of velvet fabric, adopt aforesaid fabric blank, adopt following post-processing approach to prepare: a, destarch: to put fabric blank into dye vat destarch, destarch dressing liquid component is: concentration is caustic soda 15 ± 0.5g/L, degreaser 1.0 ± 0.5g/L, the chelated dispersants 1.0 ± 0.5g/L of 30%; Be that 1:10 ~ 15 add water by bath raio, water is warming up to 40 DEG C-50 DEG C, add destarch dressing liquid, carry out water circulation, the water circulation time is 5 ~ 10 minutes, then is warming up to 105 ± 5 DEG C with the speed of 1.5 ± 0.5 DEG C/min and is then incubated, temperature retention time is 80 ± 5min, be cooled to 70 ± 5 DEG C with the speed of 1.5 ± 0.5 DEG C/min again, then overflow is cooled to 45 ± 5 DEG C, water is rejected to outside cylinder; B, dyeing: in dye vat, again add water, be warming up to 50 ± 5 DEG C, adds in acetic acid and aqueous solution 20min, then draining; Again add water and be warming up to 40 ± 5 DEG C, add dyestuff and auxiliary agent, 80 ± 5 DEG C are warming up to the programming rate of 1.0 ± 0.5 DEG C/min, again with 1.5 ± 0.5 DEG C/min be warming up to 100 ± 5 DEG C be then incubated 60 ~ 70min after, be cooled to 70 ± 5 DEG C with the speed of 1.5 ± 0.5 DEG C/min again, draining after overflow is cooled to 45 ± 5 DEG C, fabric go out cylinder; C, oven dry HEAT SETTING;
In described oven dry heat setting step, fabric width is set as 103% ~ 105% of prepattern fabric width;
The preparation method of described destarch dressing liquid is: first in medicine-adding bin, add 30-40L water, then add chelated dispersants by formula rate, stir, add degreaser by formula rate again, stir, then add water to 100L, stir 3 minutes, obtain liquid, insert in dye vat; Open the circulatory system between dye vat and medicine-adding bin, make liquid in dye vat and medicine-adding bin Inner eycle, in medicine-adding bin, add caustic soda gradually, add-subtract time 5-15 minute, dosing is complete, closes closed loop system, obtained destarch dressing liquid.
Velvet fabric of the present invention, the 16 tangerine lobe yarns being modification high convergency polyamide fibre and terylene 50D/24F ~ 75D/24F complex yarn due to the looped pile forming velvet are fully opened in desizing processes, complex yarn fibrillation becomes super fine post-modification polyamide fibre uniform shrinkage to form, therefore without the need to pressure injury looped pile, so substantially maintain the brute force of yarn, therefore brute force is awarded and is damaged less, good hand touch, skin-friendly is good, takes comfortable, owing to being that long filament efficiently shrinks formation looped pile at fabric face, therefore produce without short fiber.
Method of the present invention is adopted to prepare velvet fabric, in the last handling process to fabric blank, owing to rationally determining the component of destarch dressing liquid, and strict control has been carried out to the consumption of alkali, so, complex yarn brute force in the process of fibrillation can not be subject to apparent damage, and fabric strength is substantially unaffected, improves the brute force of velvet fabric.In desizing processes, scientific design has been carried out to the heating process of desizing liquid, while the highest warming temperature of control and speed, have employed temperature-gradient method, make fabric fibrillation abundant, in the process, 50D/24F ~ 75D/24F modification high convergency polyamide fibre and terylene complex yarn monofilament F number are fully opened for 16F and therefore obtain 50D/384F ~ 75D/384F and surpass yarn composite fiber, in dyeing course, dyeing heating process is controlled, the super fine composition of fiber has carried out abundant contraction, the brute force that the velvet that the last fabric obtained has been had is become reconciled.The COLOR FASTNESS simultaneously had.The fibroplastic looped pile of super fine terylene makes velvet fabric pro-skin performance good, and comfortableness is good.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the present invention's two-sided velvet fabric structure embodiment schematic diagram;
Fig. 2 is one side velvet fabric structure embodiment schematic diagram of the present invention.
Detailed description of the invention
In the present invention, warp thread adopts common polyamide fibre yarn, and weft yarn adopts the complex yarn of modification high convergency polyamide fibre and ordinary polyester, and the quality proportioning of polyamide fibre and terylene is 6:4 ~ 7:3, and complex yarn is 50D/24F ~ 75D/24F.
To be polyamide fibre 6 with polyamide fibre 66 modified copolymer cut into slices modification high convergency polyamide fibre that (UltramidC33) melt spinning is obtained, is developed by BASF AG.Knit structure and adopt existing fabric structure, but there is certain requirement, namely, can adopt and organize floating-point in the one side of fabric based on warp thread, organize the institutional framework of floating-point based on weft yarn at the another side of fabric, as twill, satin weave etc., also can adopt the institutional framework organizing floating-point suitable of warp thread and weft yarn, the tissue with such fabric construction has plain weave and most of dobby.
Fabric weft yarn is modification high convergency polyamide fibre and ordinary polyester two-component composite yarn line, thinks after test of many times, and be more suitable for jet and arrow shaft fabric manufacture equipment and weave, the fabric woven, after destarch-dyeing-Final finishing process, obtains velvet fabric.Concrete technology is as follows:
1, destarch: through weaving the blank fabric of acquisition, being placed in dye vat and carrying out destarch.Put the cloth woven into dye vat and carry out destarch process, destarch dressing liquid component is: concentration is caustic soda 15 ± 0.5g/L, degreaser 1.0 ± 0.5g/L, the chelated dispersants 1.0 ± 0.5g/L of 25-35%, and concentration of caustic soda is preferably 30%.Adopt following desizing: be that 1:10 ~ 15 add water by bath raio, water is warming up to 40 DEG C-50 DEG C, add destarch dressing liquid, circulate to water, the time is 5 ~ 10 minutes, is warming up to 105 ± 5 DEG C is then incubated with the speed of 1.5 ± 0.5 DEG C/min, temperature retention time is 80 ± 5min, be cooled to 70 ± 5 DEG C with the speed of 1.5 ± 0.5 DEG C/min again, then overflow is cooled to 45 ± 5 DEG C, is rejected to outside cylinder by water.
When destarch, the maximum temperature of destarch must be ensured, the maximum temperature of destarch is strict controlled within the scope of 105 ± 5 DEG C, because when the highest desizing temperature is lower than 100 DEG C, fully can not open as the modification high convergency polyamide fibre of weft yarn and the 16 tangerine lobe yarns of the two component complex yarn 50D/24F ~ 75D/24F of terylene 6:4 ~ 7:3, make fabric can not get velvet effect like this, when destarch maximum temperature is higher than 110 DEG C, yarn strength is badly damaged, and strength loss can reach more than 50%;
When destarch, another needs the strict project controlled to be amount of caustic soda, as amount of caustic soda is too large, not only make to be badly damaged as the modification high convergency polyamide fibre of weft yarn and the two component complex yarn brute force of terylene 6:4 ~ 7:3, and impact reduces its high convergency performance, if consumption is too little, its 16 tangerine lobe complex yarn fibrillation effect is incomplete, affects the velvet effect of fabric.
The following technique of preferred employing prepares destarch dressing liquid: first in the medicine-adding bin of 100L volume, add 1/3 water, then add whole chelated dispersants by formula rate, stir, whole degreaser is added again by formula rate, stir, then add water to 100L, stir and enter in dye vat in 3 minutes; Open the circulatory system between dye vat and medicine-adding bin, make liquid from dye vat internal liquid return to medicine-adding bin, then make liquid enter dye vat, circulating medical solution like this, adds caustic soda total amount in proportion gradually in medicine-adding bin, add-subtract time 5-15 minute, dosing is complete, closes closed loop system, obtains destarch dressing liquid.
2, dye, in dye vat, again add water, be warming up to 50 ± 5 DEG C, add in acetic acid and aqueous solution 20min, then draining; Again add water and be warming up to 40 ± 5 DEG C, dyeing routinely adds dyestuff and auxiliary agent, with the programming rate of 1.0 ± 0.5 DEG C/min, water is warming up to 80 ± 5 DEG C, again with 1.5 ± 0.5 DEG C/min be warming up to 100 ± 5 DEG C be then incubated 60 ~ 70min after, be cooled to 70 ± 5 DEG C with the speed of 1.5 ± 0.5 DEG C/min again, draining after overflow is cooled to 45 ± 5 DEG C, fabric go out cylinder, oven dry.
In this dyeing course, need programming rate be controlled, particularly control the heating rate being warmed up to 100 DEG C from 80 DEG C, can not be too low, can not be too high, the too low or too fast contractive effect that all can reduce modified nylon of programming rate, reduces the velvet of fabric.Also need in addition to control the highest dyeing temperature, control the highest dyeing temperature at 100 ± 5 DEG C and be incubated, shrink slowly when temperature is less than 95 DEG C of its modified nylon compositions, cause final velvet not strong, temperature is greater than 105 DEG C, the strength loss more than 50% of its yarn.
Final finishing: according to the final use of fabric, corresponding processing technology can be selected, but it is noted that the most high processing temperature of Final finishing required≤180 DEG C, in order to avoid super fine shrinkage nylon composition is brittle; In order to obtain outstanding velvet effect, HEAT SETTING fabric width is set as 103% ~ 105% of prepattern door width.HEAT SETTING fabric width can not be large, if greatly, the small looped pile that fabric is formed velvet can be evened up, and fabric face velvet effect is bad, if HEAT SETTING fabric width is little, easily produces folding line and make velvet uneven at fabric face.
In post-processing approach of the present invention, fabric blank is through destarch process, the 16 tangerine lobe yarns of two component complex yarn 50D/24F ~ 75D/24F are fully opened, complex yarn fibrillation becomes super fine, dyed process, its modified nylon composition efficient uniform is shunk, and the super fine composition of the terylene formed after terylene fibrillation forms evenly distributed microcosmic looped pile on complex yarn surface, brings strong velvet to fabric.
Embodiment 1
Warp thread adopts 40D/34F polyamide fibre yarn, and weft yarn adopts the complex yarn of modification high convergency polyamide fibre and ordinary polyester, and the quality proportioning of polyamide fibre and terylene is 7:3, and complex yarn is 50D/24F.Fabric tissue adopts 3/1 twill, and air-jet loom is weaved.The fabric blank woven adopts following post processing work technique:
1, destarch: put in dye vat by the aforementioned fabric blank woven and do destarch process, destarch dressing liquid component is: concentration is caustic soda 14.5g/L, degreaser 1.5g/L, the chelated dispersants 0.5g/L of 30%.Adopt following desizing: be that 1:10 adds water by bath raio, water is warming up to 40 DEG C, add destarch dressing liquid, circulate to water, the time is 5 ~ 10 minutes, is warming up to 100 DEG C is then incubated with the speed of 1.5 DEG C/min, temperature retention time is 85min, be cooled to 65 DEG C with the speed of 1.5 DEG C/min again, then overflow is cooled to 40 DEG C, is rejected to outside cylinder by water.
2, dye, in dye vat, again add water, be warming up to 50 ± 5 DEG C, add in acetic acid and aqueous solution 20min, then draining; Again add water and be warming up to 40 DEG C, dyeing routinely adds dyestuff and auxiliary agent, with the programming rate of 1.0 DEG C/min, water is warming up to 75 DEG C, be warming up to 100 DEG C with 1.5 DEG C/min to be more then incubated after 60min, be cooled to 65 DEG C with the speed of 1.5 DEG C/min again, draining after overflow is cooled to 40 DEG C, fabric go out cylinder, oven dry.
3, Final finishing: according to the final use of fabric, selects corresponding processing technology, and HEAT SETTING fabric width is set as prepattern door 103%.
Embodiment 2
Each parameter is in table 1, and all the other are with embodiment 1.
Embodiment 3-5
Each parameter is in table 1, and all the other are with embodiment 1.
Table 1: velvet fabric examples parameter and performance indications
Table 2: the performance indications table of the velvet fabric adopting the conventional method such as fibrillation, plucking, napping, cut pile to prepare: