Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is in order to overcome existing plain weave garment material tow sides texture consistent, more single, be not suitable with the market demand and complicated process of preparation, weave the high deficiency of cost, it is that bright face another side is tabby preparation method and this plain cloth of dark face that a kind of surperficial one side of fabric two of preparing is provided, enrich tabby style, simplify simultaneously preparation technology.
The objective of the invention is to be achieved through the following technical solutions:
Purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of tabby preparation method, comprises the steps: destarch, single face press polish, drying and shaping;
Preferably, dye before described single face press polish step post-drying fixating shape step;
Preferably, in described single face press polish step, calendering temperature is 170-200 ℃, and speed is 15m/min-30m/min, pressure 50-80T; Number of times is 1-5 time;
Preferably, in described staining procedure, dyeing is as follows: dissolving dye: dyestuff is put into proportion container, and add 60-95 ℃ of water to stir in right amount, until dyestuff fully dissolves, standby; Dyeing: be 1 by bath raio (cloth weighs the ratio with water): 10-1: 15 add entry in dye vat, dye liquor temperature rises to normal temperature, add successively dye leveller, acid and ACID DYES in dye vat, adjust the pH value of dye liquor to 4.5-5, stir, then carry out temperature-gradient method dyeing, first paragraph adopts low speed to heat up, be warming up to 60 ℃-70 ℃, second segment is warming up to 80 ℃-90 ℃ with middling speed, the 3rd section with high-speed heating to 100 ℃-115 ℃, then insulation 30-60 minute between 100 ℃-115 ℃, then fast cooling to 80 ℃-90 ℃;
Preferably, the programming rate that described low speed heats up is 0.4 ℃-0.6 ℃/minute, the programming rate that described middling speed heats up is 0.6 ℃-0.9 ℃/minute, and the programming rate of described high-speed heating is 1.0 ℃-1.2 ℃, and the cooling rate of described fast cooling is 1.5 ℃-3 ℃/minute;
Preferably, dyeing is dyeed on the High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing machine, nozzle diameter 70mm-90mm, and the gap 3.0-5.0mm between nozzle od, 2.0-3.0kg, cloth wheel speed 350-450m/min are pressed in spray;
Preferably, in described drying and shaping step, protect the width oven dry with the speed of 30-60m/min at the temperature of 100-140 ℃;
Preferably, surpass waterproof after described guarantor's width drying and shaping step and protect the width typing;
Preferably, in the typing of described super waterproof guarantor width, setting temperature is 160 ℃-180 ℃, and protecting width typing speed is 40-60m/min.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a kind of plain cloth by the inventive method preparation;
Described fabric is woven into two surfaces of fabric by warp thread and weft yarn, two surface one sides of described fabric are that bright face, one side are dark faces.
The inventive method prepares plain cloth, after press polish, fabric is carried out drying and shaping, and can obtain one side is bright face, and another side is the fabric of dark face, and preparation technology is simple.
Plain cloth by the inventive method preparation, bright face due to one side being arranged in two surfaces of fabric, another side is dark face, and the tow sides of fabric have different styles, and the clothes of making both can be worn in the front, also but reverse side is worn, also can make ingredient and process, the style that has increased clothes changes, and has adapted to the demand in market, simultaneously, fabric is comfortable and easy to wear.
The specific embodiment
The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with drawings and Examples:
As shown in Fig. 1-4, plain weave fabric of the present invention, two surface colors and texture are consistent, but due to fabric process single face press polish before dyeing, therefore the reflecting rate on fabric two surfaces is different, produce the difference on the light and shade color, making by the surface of press polish is the surface of becoming clear, and is not dull surfaces by the surface of press polish.Plain cloth of the present invention makes by following aftertreatment technology: at first being drifted along to interweave by warp thread and weft yarn forms plain weave fabric, obtaining one side after the starching of fabric process, single face press polish, dyeing, drying and shaping is bright surface, another side is the plain weave fabric of dull surfaces, certainly, if only want to make the calico processing that need not to dye, fabric desizing directly carries out the tentering drying and shaping by the single face press polish.The single face press polish is carried out on calender, can adopt conventional pasta calendaring technology, press polish parameters selection calendering temperature is 170-200 ℃ preferably, speed 15m/min-30m/min, pressure 50-80T, can make fiber produce physical property under above-mentioned process conditions and change, produce glossy gloss, make the light and shade contrast of fabric large; Press polish number of times at least 2 times preferably 2-4 time, can obtain better reflecting effect through at least twice press polish, but the press polish number of times too much should cause fabric feeling to descend and improve the dyeing difficulty, when press polish, identical for the front and back brightness that makes cloth cover, should guarantee that calendering temperature is stable; In order to obtain having the fabric of rainproof effect, can be again through super waterproof typing after the typing of fabric drying.in above-mentioned technique, conventional desizing is adopted in destarch, and destarch speed preferably adopts 20m/min-40m/min, the destarch effect that slow destarch speed can obtain, particularly to the fabric aftertreatment technology of first press polish poststaining, can make that to dye color more even, because the light and shade with coloured fabric of the present invention obtains by first press polish poststaining, its dyeing difficulty increases, the Color that adopts following dyeing to obtain: select the High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing machine, selecting diameter is the nozzle of 70mm-90mm, distance between the external diameter between nozzle is adjusted to 3.0-5.0mm, setting jet flow pressure is 2.0-3.0kg, and the speed of setting cloth wheel is 350-450m/min, (cloth is heavy: be water) 1: 10-1: 15 will be warmed up to normal temperature in water injection dye vat by bath raio, dye by the dyeing curve, as shown in Figure 1, be specially and add successively dye leveller A in dye vat, acid B and the dyestuff D after dissolving, dyestuff D joins in dye vat at twice, the pH value of dye liquor is adjusted into 4.5-5, stir, then carry out temperature-gradient method, first paragraph adopts low speed to heat up, be warming up to 60-70, second segment is warming up to 80-90 with middling speed, the 3rd section with high-speed heating to 100-115, then be incubated 30-60 minute between 100-115, fast cooling is to 80-90 again, to be first paragraph be warming up to 60-70 with the programming rate of 0.4-0.6/ minute to heating curve preferably, second segment is warming up to 80-90 with the programming rate of 0.6-0.9, the 3rd section speed with 1.0-1.2 is warming up to 100-115, then be incubated 30-60 minute between 100-115, again with the speed fast cooling of 1.5-3 to 80-90, adopt above-mentioned heating curve, be temperature-gradient method owing to heating up, and programming rate raises gradually, make dyestuff penetration good, be applicable to fabric through the press polish poststaining, can improve dyeing quality, shaping and drying can adopt conventional technique, be preferably at 100-140 ℃ of temperature, protect the width oven dry with the speed of 30-60m/min, super waterproof typing can be adopted common process, and super waterproofing agent adopts following formula: water-fastness super waterproofing agent 40-100g/l, bridging agent 5-10g/l, bleeding agent 1-3g/l, citric acid 1-3g/l first adjusts the pH value to 4.5-5 during use, protecting preferably the width setting temperature is 160-180 ℃, speed 40-60m/min.
Embodiment 1
Select the polyamide fibre plain cloth, carry out as follows post processing:
Destarch is carried out ready cloth destarch and dries clot, destarch speed 20m/min;
The press polish of single face pasta: calendering temperature is 170 ℃, and speed is 15m/min, pressure 50T; Number of times is 4 times.
Get cloth and beat look;
ACID DYES is put into proportion container, and 60-95 ℃ of water stirs in right amount in addition, until dyestuff fully dissolves, standby;
Open the High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing machine, adjust the machine technique that dyes easily: nozzle diameter 70mm-90mm, gap 3.0-5.0mm, 2.0-3.0kg, cloth wheel speed 350-450m/min, cloth wheel moment 40-50% are pressed in spray, by-pass is transferred to " 0 ", and (cloth is heavy: be water) 1: 10-1: 15 for bath raio.Water is injected be warmed up to 30 ℃ in dye vat, add successively dye leveller, acid, dyestuff, adjust the pH value of dyestuff to 4.5-5, be warming up to 60 ℃ with the speed of 0.5 ℃/minute, then be warming up to 80 ℃ with the speed of 0.8 ℃/minute, be warming up to 110 ℃ with the speed of 1.0 ℃/minute again, insulation is 30 minutes at the temperature of 110 ℃, then is cooled to 90 ℃ with the speed of 110 ℃/minute;
To dye good cloth and dry with setting machine, the speed with 30m/min at the temperature of 100 ℃ is protected the width drying and shaping.
Embodiment 2
Select the polyamide fibre TWILL CLOTH, carry out as follows post processing:
Destarch is carried out ready cloth destarch and dries clot, destarch speed 30m/min;
Get cloth and beat look;
The press polish of single face pasta: calendering temperature is 180 ℃, and speed is 25m/min, pressure 65T; Number of times is 3 times.
Water is injected be warmed up to 25 ℃ in dye vat, add successively dye leveller, acid, dyestuff, adjust the pH value of dyestuff to 4.5-5, be warming up to 65 ℃ with the speed of 0.4 ℃/minute, then be warming up to 90 ℃ with the speed of 0.9 ℃/minute, be warming up to 110 ℃ with the speed of 1.1 ℃/minute again, insulation is 45 minutes at the temperature of 110 ℃, then is cooled to 70 ℃ with the speed of 110 ℃/minute;
To dye good cloth and dry with setting machine, the speed with 60m/min at the temperature of 140 ℃ is protected the width drying and shaping.
The other the same as in Example 1
Embodiment 3
Destarch is carried out ready cloth destarch and dries clot, destarch speed 40m/min;
Calendering temperature is 200 ℃, and speed is 30m/min, pressure 80T; Number of times is 2 times.
Water is warmed up to 20 ℃, add successively dye leveller, acid, dyestuff, adjust the pH value of dyestuff to 4.5-5, be warming up to 65 ℃ with the speed of 0.6 ℃/minute, then be warming up to 90 ℃ with the speed of 0.9 ℃/minute, be warming up to 110 ℃ with the speed of 1.1 ℃/minute again, insulation is 45 minutes at the temperature of 110 ℃, then is cooled to 70 ℃ with the speed of 110 ℃/minute;
To dye good cloth and dry with setting machine, the speed with 40m/min at the temperature of 125 ℃ is protected the width drying and shaping, and take setting temperature as 160 ℃-180 ℃, protecting width typing speed is that 40-60m/min surpasses the typing of waterproof guarantor width.