CN101387033A - Soft high density zonal elastic fabrics with heterochrosis effect - Google Patents
Soft high density zonal elastic fabrics with heterochrosis effect Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses flexible high-density latitudinal elastic fabric with color changing effect, wherein the warp yarn forming the fabric adopts superfine fiber, and the weft yarn adopts elastic yarn. The fabric has the advantages of higher density, good flexibility and soft touch feeling, and facilitates sport; moreover, people wearing the fabric do not feel sweltering and oppressed.
Description
Technical field:
The present invention relates to a kind of textiles.
Background technology:
Highdensity high-density fabric in the past, because employing is high density designs, the tightness of fabric is quite high, make the resistant to bending ability of fabric strengthen, and then the feel that shows as fabric is very stiff, and the old friend is through and feels to be unfavorable for motion on one's body, and sultry constriction is arranged.
Summary of the invention:
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of flexibility good have a heterochromatic effect flexible high-density broadwise elastic fabric.
Technical solution of the present invention is:
A kind of have a heterochromatic effect flexible high-density broadwise elastic fabric, and it is characterized in that: the warp thread of forming this fabric is a superfine fibre, and weft yarn is an elastomeric yarn.
The warp thread superfine fibre of forming this fabric can be direct fabrics method and the superfine fibre that makes; Also can be to utilize the bi-component spin processes and the compound superfine fibre made, the cross-sectional distribution of this kind bi-component composite type superfine fibre can be other kinds such as parallel type, core-skin type, fabric of island-in-sea type, rice font.For medium-sized superfine fibre, its filament number scope is 0.2-1.2D, for compound superfine fibre, be 0.02-0.1D through peeling off back filament number scope, superfine fibre can be the light type being arranged or light type yarn being arranged greatly of full-dull type, half extinction type or various special-shaped sections; Superfine fibre can be the DTY type, can be FDY, and institute's amount of twist is 0-1200T/M.What weft yarn adopted is elastomeric yarn, can be the compound bicomponent elastic yarn of PET and PTT, can be ACY or SCY or DSY or CSY, can be the complex yarn of elastomeric yarn and other yarn kind interlacings or distortion.
ACY---air wrap yarn feeds air-texturing jet simultaneously with a hard yarn and elastomeric yarn, the yarn that utilizes the eddy current that compressed air produced of nozzle interior that these fiber air interlacings are formed.
SCY---single wrap yarn is wound in the elastomeric yarn skin with a hard yarn.
DSY---two wrap yarns are with the two-layer elastomeric yarn skin that is wound in about two rightabout hard yarns.
CSY---hard yarn is the air wrap yarn of short fiber.
For complex yarn set forth above be meant various elastomeric yarns and other yarns by interlacing, air-texturing, close the yarn that other modes such as sth. made by twisting are combined into.
What this invention was adopted is high density designs, finished product be 2800～5000 through broadwise yarn coverage coefficient, wherein the warp-wise coverage coefficient is 2100～3800, the coverage coefficient of broadwise is 700～1200, heterochromatic effect for outstanding this high-density fabric, selecting for use when organizing, can be satin weave or or change satin weave antarafacial twill or other antarafacial tissues.
The goods tow sides have tangible heterochromatic effect, and △ E value scope is more than 0.8, and the hard and soft degree of the warp-wise of fabric is below 0.3g.Cm, and the hard and soft degree of broadwise is below 0.1g.cm.The broadwise spring rate of fabric is 3%---40%;
Δ E=|E
Just-E
Instead|.
Needs according to selected yarn kind difference and back engineering, warp thread can add certain twist, the scope of the twist can be 0～1200T/M, for the FDY type, can suitably add certain twist or adopt the higher rate of sizing, the rate of sizing remains on 5%～15%, for DTY vulnerable network type, can add the suitable twist or adopt low sizing technique, the rate of sizing can remain on 4%～10%, for strong network-type among the DTY, the rate of sizing remains on 0%～8%.
The preceding preparatory process of weaving of this invention fabric is: warping-starching-and axle-operations such as the denting of gaiting.In warping process, warping apparatus can be beam warper or Sectional warping machines, warping tension force when warping remains on 0.1CN/D～0.5CN/D, and when warping, add suitable oil or wax, when starching, the rate of sizing can be according to noted earlier, and tension force remains on 0.1CN/D～0.5CN/D, baking temperature remains on 120 ℃～150 ℃, and the speed of starching is 60M/MIN～200M/MIN; And the tension force in when axle remains on 0.1CN/D～0.5CN/D, and axle speed is 60M/MIN～200M/MIN.Make the beam of a loom that is fit to air-jet loom or water jet looms or Rapier looms or gripper shuttle loom requirement by above method.
When gaiting, the overall DENIER that every page of heald frame can bear is for being no more than 600,000 DENIER, and the density of heald is for being no more than 15/cm.
Because this invention fabric is a high-density fabric, the density of warp thread is quite high, cause the levels Warp opening of warp thread unclear easily, friction between the warp thread is very big, and cause the vibration of loom quite severe easily, so adopt big weaving-machine tension 0.15CN/D～0.5CN/D when last machine, back beam height is 0～(-5) CM.
The major project of the dyeing of this lining processing is: grey cloth typing (1 time or 2 times)-singe-refining-bleaching-boiling-off-mercerising-centre typing-decrement-dyeing-functional treatment-arrangement is finalized the design, and wherein singes, bleaching, boiling-off, mercerising four engineerings be the engineering that is adopted when weft yarn contains as natural fabrics such as cotton, fiber crops.
Grey cloth typing: because this invention weft yarn employing is to have better flexible yarn, its boiling water shrinkage is all bigger generally speaking, if adopt the engineering the same with general fabrics, be easy to make fabric excessive owing to shrinking in process, and the wrinkle that generation can't be removed, this engineering so lining increase grey cloth is finalized the design, suppress its contraction, used machine is a framing shaping machine, the temperature of grey cloth typing is 100 ℃～180 ℃, some fabric can adopt the technology of twice grey cloth typing for the stability of the effect that strengthens typing or back engineering, and condition is with the condition of typing once; The door width of cloth about when typing is set, and a concrete door width of cloth can decide on used weft yarn and density, generally speaking can be with reference to allowing grey cloth under setting temperature and nature, and the shrinkage SL of maintenance 30S～90S and deciding.
Set fabric width=grey cloth fabric width * (1-SL)
Singe: this engineering is necessary engineering when weft yarn uses short fiber, according to difference to product requirements, can adopt the front to singe or reverse side is singed or singe in the two sides, the body temperature requirement is lower than 180 ℃ when singing, temperature is too high, then the contraction of the cloth width of cloth is excessive, and feel is hardened coarse, powerful decline even tendering.
Refining: because the warp thread employing all is chemical-fibres filaments, so the condition of refining is: T=80 ℃～105 ℃, alkaline agent concentration is 5g/l～10g/l, and refining agent concentration is 4g/l～12g/l, refining speed determines that according to the thickness and the refining effect of cloth speed is generally 15M/MIN～80M/MIN.
Boiling-off: this engineering is still for containing the necessary engineering of atural staple fibre, because it contains impurity such as accompaniment, cotton seed hulls as cotton fiber, have only by boiling-off and can remove, and can make fabric obtain good wettability and outward appearance, carry out smoothly in order to back processing.Boiling-off gets equipment: 1. kier boiling-off, the 2. continuous boiling-off of rope form decatize, 3. crawler type decatize boiling-off machine.Host during boiling-off is caustic soda, and auxiliary agent is an amount of sodium hydrogensulfite, waterglass, tertiary sodium phosphate and wetting agent.The consumption of caustic soda is according to the thickness decision of the difference of boiling-off equipment and cloth, and the time of decatize and temperature be different and variant according to equipment also.Specifically see the following form:
Grammes per square metre was at 120g/m before flimsy material was meant boiling-off in the table
2Grammes per square metre was at 120g/m before following fabric, heavy weave were meant boiling-off
2And 120g/m
2Above fabric.
Bleaching: this engineering is the necessary engineering when containing natural short fiber also, most impurity have been removed though passed through the boiling-off engineering, can satisfy certain processing request, but still be necessary further to remove pigment on the fabric, make fabric pure whiter, for with the terylene MIXED FABRIC, adopt chlorite bleaching generally speaking.Sodium chlorite's consumption is 10～30g/L.
Mercerising: in order to obtain mercerization effect comparatively uniformly, adopt dried cloth mercerising method, promptly after the back drying is floated in the fabric refining, carry out mercerising again.The mercerising concentration of lye generally is controlled at 220～300g/L.
Middle typing: the effect of middle typing is the uniformity that improves fabric smoothness and improve back engineering decrement.The temperature of middle typing is 160 ℃～220 ℃, the cloth cover effect of engineering is determined before the set basis of fabric width, generally speaking, on the basis of the typing Qianmen width of cloth, add 2-15CM, if cloth cover wrinkle relatively severity can adopt suitable setting temperature and enlarge a door width of cloth and improved.
Decrement: the alkali decrement is to improve a kind of method of pliability, reduction rate is decided according to the feel requirement of fabric and the selection of yarn kind, when if warp thread adopts the compound superfine fibre of fabric of island-in-sea type or Schizoid, in order to obtain to open fine effect preferably, can improve reduction rate, reach 15～50%, when adopting general superfine fibre, determine reduction rate according to feel, reduction rate keeps 0%～25% generally speaking.
Grammes per square metre * 100 after reduction rate (%)=(grammes per square metre after the preceding cloth grammes per square metre-decrement of decrement)/decrement
Dyeing: different according to selected yarn kind during dyeing, can select different dyestuffs for use, can use DISPERSE DYES when containing polyester fiber, can select REACTIVE DYES or direct dyes for use when containing natural fabrics such as cotton, can adopt ACID DYES when containing polyamide fiber, can select for use the above corresponding dyestuff two bath methods of carrying out to dye or dye when above composition mixes with the bath method when containing.When the composition of weft yarn is different, can dye different colors through weft yarn, with further outstanding heterochromatic effect.
Functional treatment: for the soft hand feeling of giving prominence to fabric can increase soft processing in the resin engineering; For fabric obtains other functions, can carry out other functional treatments, such as: antistatic finish, water repellent finish, anti-crease finishing etc.
Arrangement typing: for fabric obtains surface effect and good DIMENSIONAL STABILITY preferably, this engineering of arrangement typing is necessary, the same during the arrangement typing with middle setting machine, adopt framing shaping machine, temperature is 130 ℃～200 ℃, the surface effect of engineering sample cloth and the requirement of feel increase by 0～15CMM before the set basis of fabric width on the basis of preceding engineering sample cloth fabric width.
The existing higher tightness of product of the present invention has good flexibility again, and fabric soft is beneficial to motion, do not have sultry constriction.
The specific embodiment:
Example 1:
Use yarn kind: warp thread: 150D-288-DTY (filament number 0.52D),
Weft yarn: 150D-48-PET/PTT bicomponent elastic yarn;
Tissue: 5 piece 3 is flown through the face satin weave
Density: grey cloth: 205/IN * 93/IN, goods: 287/IN * 102/IN
Tightness: grey cloth: 2519+1139=3658, goods: 3527+1250=4777
Warp thread interlacing number reaches 150/meter, and in preparatory construction, warp thread adopts not starching oiling process, and the tension force of warping and axle remains on about 350 grams.
Because not starching of warp thread in order to prevent the generation of filoplume, selects for use water jet looms to weave, the tension force setting value when weaving on the loom is 5800N, and the opening amount is 62 millimeters, and back depth of beam is (2.0) CM
Dyeing processing major project and condition:
The grey cloth typing: T=150 ℃, cloth speed: 30m/min, the dry-hot shrinkage of grey cloth are 13%.
Refining: T=95 ℃, alkaline agent concentration 8g/l, refining agent concentration 6g/l, V cloth=30m/min.
Middle typing: T=200 ℃, fabric width is set on the basis of refining and adds 3cm.
Decrement: alkaline agent concentration 45%, reduction rate 16%.
Dyeing: adopt liquid-flow dyeing machine dyeing, dyeing condition: 135 ℃ * 20min, used dyestuff is a DISPERSE DYES, and color is middle light color.Because weft yarn adopts bi-component yarn, when dyeing at the same time, compare with warp thread, the colouring better performances, cloth cover presents the positive and negative appearance effect.
Functional treatment: this engineering has adopted the antistatic resin arrangement, in order further to improve the pliability of fabric, adds suitable softener.
The arrangement typing: T=180 ℃, V cloth=30m/min.Before being set in, fabric width adds 4CM on the basis of engineering fabric width.
The outward appearance of goods and elasticity: positive light color, reverse side dark color.It is 1.4 that entire body colour photometer COLOUREYE3100 records △ E result, fabric be 0.29*0.06g/cm through the hard and soft degree of broadwise, the broadwise elasticity of fabric reaches 12%.
Example 2: use yarn kind: warp thread: 100D-288-DTY (filament number 0.35D),
Weft yarn: 70D spandex+32SCOTTON air wrap yarn
Tissue: 5 piece 3 is flown through the face satin weave
Density: grey cloth: 228/IN * 88/IN, goods: 301/IN * 95/IN
Tightness: grey cloth: 2347+1209=3556, goods: 3010+1306=4316
Though warp thread interlacing number also reaches 150/meter, but because the single fiber fiber number of this yarn reaches 0.35D, and what weft yarn adopted is the hydrophily cotton fiber, estimate to utilize air-jet loom to weave, so in preparatory construction, warp thread adopts the low concentration sizing technique, and the rate of sizing remains on about 5%, and the tension force of warping and axle remains on about 300 grams.
Dyeing processing major project and condition:
The grey cloth typing: T=130 ℃, cloth speed: 50m/min, rule of thumb, the dry-hot shrinkage of grey cloth is 15%, and adopts twice typing.
Refining: T=95 ℃, alkaline agent concentration 8g/l, refining agent concentration 6g/l, V cloth=40m/min.
Singe: because this lining employing is satin weave, adopt reverse side to singe when singing, the body temperature is 160 ℃ when singing.
Refining: T=95 ℃, alkaline agent concentration 8g/l, refining agent concentration 6g/l, V cloth=40m/min.
Boiling-off: equipment is the continuous boiling-off machine of rope form decatize, because this fabric belongs to medium weight fabric, so the concentration of boiling-off host caustic soda is 30g/L, auxiliary agent sodium hydrogensulfite, waterglass, tertiary sodium phosphate and wetting agent etc. are an amount of.Steaming time 1.5H, 120 ℃ of steam temperatures.
Bleaching: owing to be the polyester-cotton blend MIXED FABRIC, this adopts chlorite bleaching.Sodium chlorite's consumption is 10～30g/L.
Middle typing: T=190 ℃, fabric width is set on the basis of refining and adds 15cm.
Decrement: subtract agent concentration 30%, reduction rate 13%.
Dyeing: adopt liquid-flow dyeing machine dyeing, dyeing condition: 135 ℃ * 20min is polyester fiber because warp thread adopts, and the weft yarn utilization is cotton yarn, so utilize DISPERSE DYES and direct dyes to dye with the bath method when dyeing.After the dyeing, cloth cover presents the heterochromatic effect of positive and negative.
The arrangement typing: T=180 ℃, V cloth=30m/min.Before being set in, fabric width adds 4CM on the basis of engineering fabric width.
Products appearance and elasticity: when positive and negative was homochromy, entire body colour photometer COLOUR EYE3100 light source adopted D65, and recording △ E result is 0.9; When the fabric positive and negative was not homochromy, positive and negative presented tangible heterochromatic effect, and to record the result be 8 to △ E in this example; Fabric be 0.3*0.108g/cm through the hard and soft degree of broadwise; The broadwise elasticity of fabric reaches 22%.
Example 3: use yarn kind: warp thread: 150D-72/16-DTY (filament number 0.13D),
Weft yarn: 40/150-96-ACY
Tissue: 3/1 twill
Density: grey cloth: 180/IN * 80/IN, goods: 252/IN * 94/IN
Tightness: grey cloth: 2219+1021=3240, goods: 3107+1200=4307
Warp thread adds 400T/M, and adopts the low concentration sizing technique, and the rate of sizing remains on about 5%, and the tension force of warping and axle remains on about 350 grams.
Dyeing processing major project and condition:
Basic engineering that this example adopts is fully with example 1: unique difference is, is the Schizoid superfine fibre because warp thread adopts, and in order to obtain to open preferably fine effect and soft hand feeling comparatively, the concentration of alkaline agent is 55%, and reduction rate remains on about 35%.
Products appearance and elasticity: fabric face presents light reverse side and presents dark effect, and entire body colour photometer COLOUR EYE3100 light source adopts D65, and recording △ E result is 1.0; Fabric be 0.15*0.09g/cm through the hard and soft degree of broadwise, the broadwise elasticity of fabric reaches 33%
Claims (7)
1, a kind of have a heterochromatic effect flexible high-density broadwise elastic fabric, and it is characterized in that: the warp thread of forming this fabric is a superfine fibre, and weft yarn is an elastomeric yarn.
2, according to claim 1 have a heterochromatic effect flexible high-density broadwise elastic fabric, it is characterized in that: what warp thread adopted is that superfine fibre is DTY or FDY, and the twist is 0T/M～1200T/M, and the fiber number of its monofilament is 0.1D～1.2D; Described superfine fibre can be the superfine fibre of fabric of island-in-sea type or Schizoid; Described superfine fibre is full-dull type, half extinction type, light is arranged or the light type is arranged greatly.
3, according to claim 1 have a heterochromatic effect flexible high-density broadwise elastic fabric, it is characterized in that: what weft yarn adopted is elastomeric yarn, is the complex yarn of PET and PTT compound bicomponent elastic yarn, ACY, SCY, DSY, CSY or elastomeric yarn and other yarn kind interlacings or distortion.
4, according to claim 1 have a heterochromatic effect flexible high-density broadwise elastic fabric, it is characterized in that: adopt high density designs, the overall coverage coefficient of finished product longitude and latitude reaches 2800-5000, and wherein the warp-wise coverage coefficient is 2100～3800, and the coverage coefficient of broadwise is 700～1200.
5, according to claim 1 have a heterochromatic effect flexible high-density broadwise elastic fabric, it is characterized in that: being organized as satin weave or changing satin weave or antarafacial twill-weave of employing.
6, has a heterochromatic effect flexible high-density broadwise elastic fabric according to claim 1 is described, it is characterized in that: through yarn twisting or do not twist, and cooperate warping starching, and axle, make beam of a loom, warp tension is 0.15CN/D～0.5CN/D in weaving engineering, adopt big opening amount, the opening amount is more than the 80mm, and back beam height is 0～(-5) CM.
7, has a heterochromatic effect flexible high-density broadwise elastic fabric according to claim 1 is described, it is characterized in that: the goods tow sides have tangible heterochromatic effect, △ E value scope is more than 0.8, and the hard and soft degree of the warp-wise of fabric is below 0.3g.Cm, and the hard and soft degree of broadwise is below 0.1g.cm.The broadwise spring rate of fabric is 3%---40%.
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| CN2008101085497A CN101387033B (en) | 2007-09-10 | 2008-05-21 | Soft high density zonal elastic fabrics with heterochrosis effect |
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| CN200710131882.5 | 2007-09-10 | ||
| CN2008101085497A CN101387033B (en) | 2007-09-10 | 2008-05-21 | Soft high density zonal elastic fabrics with heterochrosis effect |
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| CN101387033B CN101387033B (en) | 2011-11-02 |
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Cited By (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN102002792A (en) * | 2009-08-28 | 2011-04-06 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Light fabric and production method thereof |
| CN102534948A (en) * | 2010-12-13 | 2012-07-04 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Wrinkle-resistant elastic polyester-cotton fabric and production method thereof |
| CN102926087A (en) * | 2011-08-11 | 2013-02-13 | 志向（中国）集团有限公司 | Heavy fabric |
| CN104233601A (en) * | 2013-06-14 | 2014-12-24 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Super-soft knitted fabric and processing method thereof |
| CN105019168A (en) * | 2015-07-10 | 2015-11-04 | 郎溪远华纺织有限公司 | Printing and dyeing method for increasing softness of textile cloth for curtain |
| CN107700030A (en) * | 2017-10-26 | 2018-02-16 | 董坚强 | A kind of production method of the compound silk fabrics of fine denier polyester elastic polyurethane fiber |
| CN111218741A (en) * | 2019-12-23 | 2020-06-02 | 苏州君辉纺织有限公司 | Preparation process of DTY (draw textured yarn) plied yarn with special luster |
Family Cites Families (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| AU2000260242A1 (en) * | 2000-07-25 | 2002-02-05 | Asahi Kasei Kabushiki Kaisha | Stretchable high-density woven fabric |
| US6782923B2 (en) * | 2001-11-13 | 2004-08-31 | Invista North America, S.A.R.L. | Weft-stretch woven fabric with high recovery |
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Cited By (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102002792A (en) * | 2009-08-28 | 2011-04-06 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Light fabric and production method thereof |
| CN102534948A (en) * | 2010-12-13 | 2012-07-04 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Wrinkle-resistant elastic polyester-cotton fabric and production method thereof |
| CN102926087A (en) * | 2011-08-11 | 2013-02-13 | 志向（中国）集团有限公司 | Heavy fabric |
| CN104233601A (en) * | 2013-06-14 | 2014-12-24 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Super-soft knitted fabric and processing method thereof |
| CN104233601B (en) * | 2013-06-14 | 2017-06-30 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | A kind of super soft knitted fabric and its processing method |
| CN105019168A (en) * | 2015-07-10 | 2015-11-04 | 郎溪远华纺织有限公司 | Printing and dyeing method for increasing softness of textile cloth for curtain |
| CN107700030A (en) * | 2017-10-26 | 2018-02-16 | 董坚强 | A kind of production method of the compound silk fabrics of fine denier polyester elastic polyurethane fiber |
| CN111218741A (en) * | 2019-12-23 | 2020-06-02 | 苏州君辉纺织有限公司 | Preparation process of DTY (draw textured yarn) plied yarn with special luster |
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Effective date of registration: 20171220 Address after: 226009 Jiangsu province Nantong Ruixing economic and Technological Development Zone, Road No. 301 Patentee after: Dongli wine (Nantong) Co., Ltd. Yi dyeing Address before: 226009 Nantong Province Economic and Technological Development Zone, the New South Road, No. 58, No. Patentee before: Toray Fiber Research Institute (China) Co., Ltd. |