CN104411294A - 甜马郁兰精油、包含其的组合物、化妆品治疗方法和用途 - Google Patents
甜马郁兰精油、包含其的组合物、化妆品治疗方法和用途 Download PDFInfo
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Classifications
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
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- C11B9/00—Essential oils; Perfumes
- C11B9/0042—Essential oils; Perfumes compounds containing condensed hydrocarbon rings
- C11B9/0046—Essential oils; Perfumes compounds containing condensed hydrocarbon rings containing only two condensed rings
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
- C11B—PRODUCING, e.g. BY PRESSING RAW MATERIALS OR BY EXTRACTION FROM WASTE MATERIALS, REFINING OR PRESERVING FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES, e.g. LANOLIN, FATTY OILS OR WAXES; ESSENTIAL OILS; PERFUMES
- C11B9/00—Essential oils; Perfumes
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
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- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
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- Birds (AREA)
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Abstract
本发明涉及新型甜马郁兰精油、包含其的化妆品组合物或药物组合物以及使用其的化妆品治疗方法和其作为抗头屑剂的美容用途。
Description
本发明涉及特定的甜马郁兰精油作为抗头屑剂,特别是在特别与头皮屑状况有关的头皮美观障碍的化妆品治疗中的美容用途。本发明还涉及旨在使用所述精油去除和/或减少头皮屑,特别是由马拉色菌属的酵母菌造成的头皮屑的化妆品治疗方法,还涉及包含所述精油的组合物,特别是化妆品组合物,并涉及所述精油本身。
头皮屑问题侵扰多达50%的全球人口。它们既侵扰男性也侵扰女性,并被认为具有非常负面的社会心理影响。头皮屑外观就审美和就其造成的不适(特别是发痒)而言都令人讨厌,因此在不同程度上面对这一问题的许多人都希望有效并永久地摆脱它。
头皮屑相当于由表皮细胞的过快增殖和由它们的异常成熟造成的头皮的过度和可见脱屑。这种现象特别由过度侵蚀性的头发处理、极端气候条件、紧张、饮食、疲劳或污染引起。
头皮屑状况通常由头皮的微生物群失调,更特别由属于马拉色菌属酵母类并天然存在于头皮上的真菌的过度定殖造成。
以从头皮上根除马拉色菌属酵母为主要目的,已经开发出许多抗头屑疗法。因此,现今的抗头屑活性剂,如吡啶硫酮锌、吡罗克酮乙醇胺或二硫化硒的活性主要基于它们的杀真菌性质。但是,这些抗头屑剂在效力(即时效力或效力持续时间)方面和/或在对环境的影响方面不完全令人满意。
本发明的目的是提供不刺激皮肤和头皮并且比已知的抗头屑剂更有效,同时对环境具有更良性的影响(特别是低生物累积和良好的可生物降解性)的化妆品抗头屑剂;所述化妆品活性剂特别能够重建头皮的生态菌群,特别是防止马拉色菌属在头皮上的过度定殖。
申请人公司已经令人惊讶地发现,特定的甜马郁兰精油的使用能够有效治疗与头皮屑状况有关的头皮美观障碍,特别是与马拉色菌属的酵母菌的增殖相关的那些,并克服现有技术的缺点。
已经观察到,通过使用本发明的精油,可以去除和/或减少头发和/或头皮上存在的头皮屑的量和通常相关联的头皮发痒。
还已经观察到,所述精油的使用还可以改善角蛋白纤维(单根头发)的质量和赋予其美容性质,特别是调理性质,非常特别是顺滑性、柔顺性、光泽性、解缠结、柔软性、易打理性和增量。此外,也改善该组合物的使用状况,特别是该组合物在纤维上的分布及其漂洗(例如用水漂洗)。
本发明的一个主题因此是马郁兰(Origanum majorana)精油和/或马郁兰与侧柏醇百里香(thuyanol)的杂交种的精油,其特征在于其包含至少18重量%,优选至少20重量%的顺式-4-侧柏醇(cis-4-thujanol)和至少16重量%,优选至少18重量%,甚至至少20重量%的香芹酚。
本发明还涉及包含至少所述马郁兰精油的化妆品组合物或药物组合物。
本发明还涉及旨在治疗与头皮屑状况有关的头皮美观障碍和/或去除和/或减少头皮屑的化妆品治疗方法,其特征在于其包括在头发和/或头皮上施加所述精油或包含其的化妆品组合物。
本发明还涉及所述精油或包含其的化妆品组合物作为抗头屑剂或用于治疗与头皮屑状况有关的头皮美观障碍的美容用途。
在本发明中,术语“角蛋白物质”特别被理解为是指皮肤(面部、身体、头皮)、头发、睫毛、眉毛和指甲。
在本发明的含义内,术语“生理学可接受的介质”被理解为是指适用于局部施用组合物的介质。其优选是化妆品可接受的介质,即没有难闻的气味和/或不合意的外观。
精油是由植物来源的原材料(例如叶、茎、花或全株)获得的产品。
这些精油可以根据不同的方法获得,特别例如蒸汽蒸馏、蒸馏或借助挥发性溶剂萃取。
根据国际标准ISO 9235中给出和欧洲药典委员会(Commission of
the European Pharmacopoeia)采用的定义,精油是通常具有复杂组成的有气味的产品,由植物学定义的植物原材料通过蒸汽蒸馏或通过干馏或通过无加热的适当机械工艺(冷压榨)获得。通常通过不造成任何显著的组成变化的物理方法从水相中分离精油。
用于获得精油的技术的选择主要取决于原材料:其原始状态及其特性、其天然性质。“精油/植物原材料”收率极其可变,取决于植物:为15 ppm至大于20%。这种选择调节精油的特性,特别是粘度、颜色、溶解度、挥发性、以及某些成分的丰富度或贫乏度。
在用于获得精油的方法中,可以提到蒸汽蒸馏,其可以例如通过干馏或水蒸馏进行。
水蒸馏可以在玻璃装置,如欧洲药典中规定的用于测定来自植物材料的精油的装置上进行。
蒸汽蒸馏相当于不易与水混溶的物质在蒸汽存在下的汽化。使原材料与水一起达到沸点(水蒸馏)或与蒸汽一起引入蒸馏釜中(干馏)。水蒸汽夹带精油蒸气,其在冷凝器中冷凝以作为液相回收在Florentine烧瓶(或精油罐)中,在此通过沉降将精油与水分离。使用术语“芳香水”或“纯露”或“蒸馏花水”描述在蒸汽蒸馏后留下的已分离出精油的含水馏出物。
精油通常在环境温度(25℃)下是挥发性和液态的,这使它们不同于“凝固(fixed)”油。它们或多或少是有色的,且它们的密度通常小于水。它们具有高折光指数,且它们大多数使偏振光转向。它们是脂溶性的并可溶于普通有机溶剂,可蒸汽蒸馏并非常难溶于水。
植物马郁兰是唇形科植物。其是大约50至60厘米高的一年生或多年生植物。这种植物特别分布在法国南部。其更常被称作甜马郁兰(sweet marjoram)。
根据本发明,能够使用的精油是马郁兰(Origanum majorana)精油和/或与侧柏醇百里香(thuyanol)的杂交种的精油;优选使用马郁兰精油。
有利地,能够根据本发明使用的精油是马郁兰(Origanum majorana L.)精油,特别是侧柏醇马郁兰(Origanum majorana CT thujanol),也称作Origanum ×
majoricum Cambassedes的精油。
根据本发明的马郁兰精油可以有利地获自该植物的地上部分。此外,可以在不同的收割期进行收割:开始开花或开花结束,优选在花期结束时。
可以通过本领域技术人员已知的常规技术,如气相色谱GC分析、色谱分析-火焰电离检测(被称作GC-FID)或GC/MS分析(由质谱仪与气相色谱仪联用构成)分析根据本发明的马郁兰精油的化学组成。
根据本发明的马郁兰精油和/或马郁兰与侧柏醇百里香(thuyanol)的杂交种的精油的特征在于,其包含至少18重量%的顺式-4-侧柏醇和至少16重量%的香芹酚。
马郁兰精油是文献中公知的;但是,它们无一以这些特定含量包含这两种组分。
本发明的精油组成中涉及的两种主要组分因此是:
- 顺式-4-侧柏醇,以所述精油组分总重量的大于或等于18重量%,优选大于或等于20重量%的含量,特别是以18重量%至70重量%,尤其是20重量%至50重量%,优选22重量%至35重量%的含量存在;
- 香芹酚,以所述油组分总重量的大于或等于16重量%,特别是大于或等于18重量%,优选大于或等于20重量%的含量,特别是以16重量%至70重量%,尤其是18重量%至50重量%,更好地20重量%至40重量%,优选22重量%至25重量%的含量存在。
优选地,通常还存在下列组分,各自的浓度特别为组分总重量的通常大于1.8重量%,尤其是1.8重量%至10重量%,甚至2重量%至8重量%:
- 萜烯-4-醇,
- γ-萜品烯,
- 对伞花烃,
- 桧烯,
- α-萜品烯,
- 反式-4-侧柏醇。
根据本发明的马郁兰精油和/或杂交种的精油可以以该组合物总重量的0.001重量%至5重量%,尤其是0.01重量%至3重量%,更特别是0.05重量%至2重量%,更好地0.1重量%至1重量%的含量存在于该组合物中。
能够用于本发明背景的化妆品组合物通常包含化妆品可接受的介质,即与角蛋白物质,如面部或身体的皮肤、头发、睫毛、眉毛和指甲相容的介质。
根据本发明使用的化妆品组合物可以是洗除型(rinsed-out)或免洗型(left-in)组合物。所述组合物,特别是头发组合物,优选是洗发水、霜、泡沫(气溶胶或非气溶胶)、膏、凝胶、乳液、洗液(lotion)或棒。该化妆品组合物优选以洗发水、凝胶或洗液形式提供,特别是护发形式,优选抗头屑形式。
该化妆品组合物可以是无水的或可优选包含水性或水性/有机介质;其因此可包含水和/或可选自直链或支链C1-C6单醇,如乙醇、异丙醇、叔丁醇或正丁醇;多元醇,如甘油、聚丙二醇、己二醇(或2-甲基-2,4-戊二醇)和聚乙二醇;多元醇醚,如二丙二醇单甲基醚;和它们的混合物的一种或多种有机溶剂。
该化妆品组合物优选包含占化妆品组合物总重量的0.05重量%至60重量%,优选0.5重量%至50重量%,更好地1重量%至40重量%的有机溶剂。
此外,该化妆品组合物可有利地包含化妆品中常见的至少一种附加成分,特别例如增稠剂;选自阴离子型、阳离子型、非离子型、两性和/或两性离子型表面活性剂的表面活性剂;调理剂(conditioning agents);硅酮;抗脱发剂;其它抗头屑剂;维生素;蜡;防晒剂;有色或无色的无机或有机颜料;染料;珠光剂和乳浊剂;螯合剂;增塑剂;芳香剂;或防腐剂。当然,本领域技术人员会小心选择这种或这些任选附加化合物和/或它们的量以使所考虑的添加不会或基本不会有害地影响本发明的组合物的有利性质。
根据一个实施方案,该化妆品组合物可以是水性组合物。术语“水性”被理解为是指游离水含量占该组合物总重量的大于10重量%,优选大于30重量%,更好地大于50重量%,甚至大于70重量%的组合物。
根据另一实施方案,该化妆品组合物可以是无水组合物。术语“无水”被理解为是指游离或外加水的含量占该组合物总重量的小于10重量%,特别小于3重量%的组合物,优选是外加水的含量小于该组合物总重量的1重量%的组合物。该无水化妆品组合物优选不含水。
该化妆品组合物在施加到角蛋白物质(头发和/或头皮)上后可以冲洗掉或不冲洗。
此外,在施加本发明的化妆品组合物后,可以在角蛋白物质的表面上施加包含选自抗细菌剂、抗真菌剂和/或粉末的一种或多种活性剂的组合物。
本发明的另一主题是旨在去除和/或减少头皮屑,特别是由马拉色菌属的酵母菌引起的头皮屑的化妆品治疗方法,其特征在于其包括在头发和/或头皮上施加至少一种如根据本发明定义的马郁兰精油和/或与侧柏醇百里香(thuyanol)的杂交种的精油或包含其的化妆品组合物。
在施加所述油或包含其的组合物后,可以接着或不接水洗步骤。这种化妆品治疗方法优选以每周至少两次的频率重复。
已经发现,所述方法特别能够有效治疗与头皮屑状况有关的头皮美观障碍。
在下列实施例中更详细例示本发明。
实施例
1
在Clevenger类型的装置中通过干馏1小时30分钟,蒸馏300克在开花期到花落期收集的新鲜地上部分,由此制备马郁兰精油。以大约1.05%的收率获得精油。
由此获得的精油包含:
萜烯-4-醇
9.2%
γ-萜品烯
7.4%
对伞花烃 2.2%
桧烯
5.3%
α-萜品烯
3.8%
反式-4-侧柏醇
2.8%
顺式-4-侧柏醇
25.6%
α-萜品醇
2.3%
乙酸芳樟酯 3.0%
香芹酚 20.4%
通过GC(气相色谱法)和质谱法测定所得精油的组成。
实施例
2
原理:
通过在液体介质中稀释的方法,使不同浓度的产品与用受试菌株接种的营养肉汤接触。在培养后,计数存活的微生物(log)。
程序:
- 使产品以受试浓度的双倍浓度与双倍浓缩的营养肉汤(大约在2至6.105 CFU/ml之间测定)接触。
- 在32.5℃ ± 2.5℃下培养24小时后,通过螺旋接种计数存活的微生物并与起始接种物进行比较以确定所得减少程度。
- 受试产品的制备:在1‰琼脂中制备10%母液。
- 在搅拌后,进行稀释以制备0.02%、0.1%、0.2%、1%和2%溶液。
螺旋接种系统使用AES®或Interscience®类型的半自动接种仪(inoculater),其在描绘阿基米德螺线的同时在置于旋转板上的琼脂表面沉积校准体积的液体样品。在培养后,使用图形进行读数。这种技术能在一个相同的皿上进行样品的细菌计数,省却所有或一些中间稀释。这种方法大量使用并且是官方认可的技术。
操作条件:
- 受试产品的浓度:0.01%、0.05%、0.1%、0.5%和1%(v/v或w/v)
- 所用稀释剂:1‰琼脂
- 肉汤中的外观:不透明乳状液。
结果:
在包含不同浓度精油的介质中接种6.7 log后,在1%下24小时后观察到微生物种群的完全净化(decontamination);在0.5%下种群减少3.6 log。
实施例
3
制备一种去屑洗发水,其包含(以重量%计):
- 十二烷基醚硫酸钠 12%
- 椰油酰两性基二乙酸二钠 3.5%
-马郁兰精油(实施例1) 0.5%
- 乙二醇二硬脂酸酯 2%
- 椰油酰胺MIPA(和)异丙醇胺
1.5%
- 水杨酸 0.5%
- 吡罗克酮乙醇胺 0.5%
- HCl 适量pH 7
- 水 适量至100%。
Claims (12)
1.马郁兰(Origanum majorana)精油和/或马郁兰与侧柏醇百里香(thuyanol)的杂交种的精油,其特征在于其包含至少18重量%,优选至少20重量%的顺式-4-侧柏醇和至少16重量%,优选至少18重量%,甚至至少20重量%的香芹酚。
2.根据权利要求1的精油,其特征在于其是马郁兰(Origanum majorana L.)精油,特别是侧柏醇马郁兰(Origanum majorana CT thujanol)的精油。
3.根据前述权利要求任一项的精油,其包含:
- 顺式-4-侧柏醇,含量为所述精油组分总重量的18重量%至70重量%,尤其是20重量%至50重量%,优选22重量%至35重量%;和
- 香芹酚,含量为所述油组分总重量的16重量%至70重量%,尤其是18重量%至50重量%,更好地20重量%至40重量%,优选22重量%至25重量%。
4.根据前述权利要求任一项的精油,其另外包含下列组分,各自优选以组分总重量的大于1.8重量%,尤其是1.8重量%至10重量%,甚至2重量%至8重量%的浓度存在:
- 萜烯-4-醇,
- γ-萜品烯,
- 对伞花烃,
- 桧烯,
- α-萜品烯,
- 反式-4-侧柏醇。
5.化妆品组合物或药物组合物,其包含至少一种如权利要求1至4中任一项所述的马郁兰精油。
6.根据权利要求5的组合物,其以所述组合物总重量的0.001重量%至5重量%,尤其是0.01重量%至3重量%,更特别是0.05重量%至2重量%,更好地0.1重量%至1重量%的含量包含所述精油。
7.根据权利要求5或6的组合物,其包含选自增稠剂;阴离子型、阳离子型、非离子型、两性和/或两性离子型表面活性剂;调理剂;硅酮;抗脱发剂;其它抗头屑剂;维生素;蜡;防晒剂;有色或无色的无机或有机颜料;染料;珠光剂和乳浊剂;螯合剂;增塑剂;芳香剂;或防腐剂的至少一种附加成分。
8.根据权利要求5至7中任一项的组合物,其以洗发水、凝胶或洗液形式提供,特别是护发形式,优选抗头屑形式。
9.旨在治疗与头皮屑状况有关的头皮美观障碍和/或去除和/或减少头皮屑的化妆品治疗方法,其特征在于其包括在头发和/或头皮上施加如权利要求1至4中任一项所述的精油或如权利要求5至8中任一项所述的化妆品组合物。
10.根据权利要求9的方法,其中在施加所述油或所述组合物后接着水洗步骤。
11.如权利要求1至4中任一项所述的精油或如权利要求5至8中任一项所述的化妆品组合物作为抗头屑剂的美容用途。
12.如权利要求1至4中任一项所述的精油或如权利要求5至8中任一项所述的化妆品组合物用于治疗与头皮屑状况有关的头皮美观障碍的美容用途。
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2012
- 2012-07-02 FR FR1256312A patent/FR2992560B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2013
- 2013-06-28 US US14/409,077 patent/US20150216791A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2013-06-28 EP EP13734708.4A patent/EP2866787A2/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2013-06-28 IN IN91MUN2015 patent/IN2015MN00091A/en unknown
- 2013-06-28 CN CN201380034985.3A patent/CN104411294B/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2013-06-28 WO PCT/EP2013/063635 patent/WO2014005942A2/en active Application Filing
- 2013-06-28 BR BR112015000121A patent/BR112015000121A2/pt not_active Application Discontinuation
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WO2008133982A2 (en) * | 2007-04-27 | 2008-11-06 | Lectec Corporation | Adhesive patch with aversive agent |
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CN102397169A (zh) * | 2010-09-13 | 2012-04-04 | 弘光科技大学 | 具有清除自由基功能的化妆品 |
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
EP2866787A2 (en) | 2015-05-06 |
US20150216791A1 (en) | 2015-08-06 |
CN104411294B (zh) | 2017-05-10 |
BR112015000121A2 (pt) | 2017-06-27 |
WO2014005942A3 (en) | 2014-07-17 |
WO2014005942A2 (en) | 2014-01-09 |
IN2015MN00091A (zh) | 2015-10-16 |
FR2992560A1 (fr) | 2014-01-03 |
FR2992560B1 (fr) | 2015-10-02 |
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