CN104207985A - Plant skin whitening preparation and preparation method thereof as well as application of plant skin whitening preparation in skin whitening cosmetics - Google Patents

Plant skin whitening preparation and preparation method thereof as well as application of plant skin whitening preparation in skin whitening cosmetics Download PDF

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CN104207985A
CN104207985A CN201410436872.2A CN201410436872A CN104207985A CN 104207985 A CN104207985 A CN 104207985A CN 201410436872 A CN201410436872 A CN 201410436872A CN 104207985 A CN104207985 A CN 104207985A
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mass parts
stirring
water
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chitosan
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CN104207985B (en
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王丽杰
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Guangzhou Jin Yang Cosmetics Co Ltd
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Guangzhou Jin Yang Cosmetics Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a plant skin whitening preparation. The plant skin whitening preparation is prepared by a complex coacervation method and specially prepared by mixing water and chitosan, stirring, adjusting the pH value to 2.5-3.5 with glacial acetic acid, completely dissolving the chitosan to obtain a water solution; uniformly mixing luteolin, a mulberry bark extract, licoflavone, tanshinone and vitamin E, adding an emulsifier, stirring uniformly, homogenizing, adding the chitosan water solution to obtain a solution I; adding carboxymethyl chitosan into water, stirring and dissolving to obtain a solution II; while stirring at the constant temperature of 40-60 DEG C, slowly adding the solution I into the solution II, adjusting the pH value of the solution to 5.0-6.5, and then further stirring for 30-45min; cooling the complex coacervation liquid, then adjusting the pH value to 6.5-8.0, adding a curing agent, moving to a water bath at 40-50 DEG C for curing reaction to obtain a microcapsule emulsion; and centrifuging the microcapsule emulsion, washing the precipitate with purified water for 1-3 times, dispersing in 20-30 parts by mass of purified water, and carrying out spray drying to obtain the plant skin whitening preparation. The plant skin whitening preparation has the functions of resisting irritability, whitening and promoting blood circulation.

Description

A kind of plant whitening preparation and preparation method thereof and application in skin-lightening cosmetic
Technical field
The present invention relates to household chemicals technical field, be specifically related to a kind of plant whitening preparation and preparation method thereof and application in skin-lightening cosmetic.
Background technology
Bright and clean, pale, ruddy skin is the beauty treatment prevailing custom that Nails is pursued always, wishes to reach the effect of " skin is as snow, solidifying as fat ".People used the physics that whitening product often contains titanium dioxide one class to cover raw material in the past, can temporary whitening modify the skin of oneself.Along with scientific and technological progress, the whitening that today, women pursued has deeper physiological demand, pursue the pale of overall skin, as the desalination of mottle, dispel and prevent Pigmented generation, require whitening product to there is safety, gentle, performance efficiently simultaneously.
Whitening class Cosmetic Market is increasingly active, and production marketing grows with each passing day, and has become one of main flow kind of skin protection cosmetics.About the research of the aspects such as whitening, whitening agent, whitening evaluation, whitening mechanism deepens continuously, cause lot of domestic and foreign scientific research institution and manufacturer's extensive concern.
The common cosmetic material with white-skinned face function has at present: kojic acid and derivant thereof, hydroquinone and derivant thereof, vitamin C and derivant, fruit acid etc.
Kojic acid is called again kojic acid, and chemical name is Kojic acid, soluble in water.Its whitening mechanism is the activity of restraint of tyrosinase, can suppress again 5,6-dihydroxy indole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) oxidase active simultaneously, blocking-up DHI polymerization.This is little a kind of single whitening agent that can simultaneously suppress plurality of enzymes.But kojic acid is due to unstable to light, heat and metal ion, and skin absorption is poor, medical research discovery in recent years, life-time service kojic acid may cause cell to poison, and causes dermatosis.Kojic acid derivative whitening mechanism is identical with kojic acid, and skin-lightening cosmetic mostly is kojic acid derivative at present, but kojic acid derivative also exists and the similar problem of kojic acid.
Hydroquinone is traditional whitening and speckle dispelling composition, but because safety problem has now been not suitable as the whitening agent of cosmetics.Arbutin is the important derivatives of hydroquinone, and chemical name is hydroquinone glucoside, and arbutin can effectively reduce melanocyte under the concentration that does not affect cell proliferation, and safety is higher, and whitening effect is obvious.Shortcoming is the photosensitivity with height, thereby will add a large amount of sunscreen in product, easily skin is caused to burden, accelerates skin aging.
Vitamin C and derivant thereof are being undertaken the effect of oxidation and reduction in vivo, and the intermediate DOPA quinone of reducible melanocyte, therefore there is the melanogenic effect of inhibition.But vitamin C and derivant stability thereof are relatively poor, in cream frost, if not in addition protection meeting lose activity very soon, therefore need its parcel to prevent that it from losing activity.
Fruit acid is the organic acid extracting from fruit, and fruit acid main component is 'alpha '-hydroxy acids, comprises glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid etc., and majority is present in fruit (Fructus Citri Limoniae, Fructus Mali pumilae, Fructus Vitis viniferae etc.), is commonly called as fruit acid.Fruit acid is mainly by infiltrating into keratodermatitis, promote that in aging cutin layer, intercellular bonding force weakens, accelerate cell turnover speed and promote the aspects such as dead cell disengaging to reach the object of improving skin condition, make skin surface smooth, fine and smooth, glossy.But excessively use fruit acid can make horny layer more and more thinner, lose the function of protection skin, cause on the contrary more serious melanin deposition phenomenon.After use fruit acid, skin can become and also generally acknowledge ultraviolet is more responsive.
In many plants, contain flavonoid, Polyphenols natural materials, there is good whitening effect.The Chinese herbal medicine that China is traditional, as Radix Angelicae Sinensis, Flos Magnoliae, Rhizoma Chuanxiong, Radix Salviae Miltiorrhizae etc., contain multiple flavonoid, alkaloid, aminoacid, vitamin and trace element etc.,, antiinflammatory, antiallergic, removing free radical antibacterial except having, improve the pharmacological action of blood circulation, also have and brighten and beauty functions.In addition also have Rhizoma Typhonii, the Radix Angelicae Dahuricae, Poria, the Radix Paeoniae Alba, the Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae, Radix Puerariae, Semen Cuscutae etc. also to there is certain skin whitening effect.
Along with the rise of concept in cosmetics such as " green ", " natural ", " gentleness ", " organic ", " plant origins ", plant extract composition more and more comes into one's own at cosmetic field, and will become the development trend of a very long time from now on.But the most medicinal herb components with white-skinned face function is applied the defect in application in cosmetics, is first in organic solvent, to have larger dissolubility, but is insoluble in water; Next is in cosmetic formulations, to add difficulty, with often compatibility well of other components in cosmetics; Be that skin percutaneous absorbs difficulty again, can not farthest bring into play effect.Therefore find and solve the dissolving difficult problem of whitening composition, and ensure stable in formula, and can change places to be absorbed by the skin and become the primary Important Problems solving of cosmetic formulations exploitation.
Summary of the invention
Primary and foremost purpose of the present invention be to overcome in prior art whitening material composition not soluble, unstable, easily decompose, affect the deficiency of white-skinned face function, a kind of plant whitening preparation is provided, there is good whitening function.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a kind of preparation method of plant whitening preparation.
A further object of the present invention is to provide the application of a kind of plant whitening preparation at cosmetics, and other components in said preparation and cosmetic formulations have the good compatibility, and whitening composition can be absorbed by the skin relatively easily.
Object of the present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions:
A kind of plant whitening preparation, comprises core and wall material, and particle size distribution is 2~20 μ m, is preferably 2~10 μ m; Spherical rule, favorable dispersibility;
Core contains 1~2 mass parts luteolin, extracts from plant reseda, and its structure is:
Core contains 2~3 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, and its composition is natural flavone compounds, comprises Sang Su, mulberrochromene, cyclomulberrin, cyclomulberrochromene and morindone;
Core contains 2~3 mass parts licoflavones, extracts from liquorice root;
Core contains 1-2 mass parts part TANSHINONES, extracts from plant Radix Salviae Miltiorrhizae;
Core contains 8~10 parts of Vitamin E acetate;
Wall material contains chitosan and carboxymethyl chitosan, and chitosan is the alkaline aminopolysaccharide of the unique a large amount of existence of natural saccharide; Carboxymethyl chitosan is the product after chitosan carboxylation; Chitosan in wall material and carboxymethyl chitosan, crosslinked by aldehydes curing activity thing;
Remove mentioned component, all the other are the common adjuvant in preparation process.
Core contains Vitamin E acetate, can improve skin-nourishing, improves the effect of skin activity;
Wall material contains chitosan and carboxymethyl chitosan, and chitosan is the alkaline aminopolysaccharide of the unique a large amount of existence of natural saccharide, has the performances such as the bacteria resistance of good biocompatibility, biological degradability and wide spectrum; Carboxymethyl chitosan is the product after chitosan carboxylation, has improved the water solublity of chitosan on the basis that remains with chitosan performance; Chitosan and carboxymethyl chitosan safety non-toxic, have good moisture-keeping function;
Chitosan in wall material and carboxymethyl chitosan, crosslinked by aldehydes curing activity thing;
A preparation method for plant whitening preparation, for preparing by complex coacervation, comprises following steps:
(1) chitosan of the water of 96~98 mass parts and 2~4 mass parts is mixed, stir, with glacial acetic acid adjusting pH value to 2.5~3.5, chitosan is dissolved completely, obtain chitosan aqueous solution;
(2) by 1~2 mass parts luteolin, 2~3 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, 2~3 mass parts licoflavones, 1~2 mass parts TANSHINONES, 8~10 mass parts Vitamin E acetate mix homogeneously, add 5~8 mass parts emulsifying agents, stir, under homogenizing, add step (1) chitosan aqueous solution, obtain solution I;
(3) carboxymethyl chitosan of 2~5 mass parts is added in the water of 95~98 mass parts, stirring and dissolving, obtains solution II;
Under (4) 40~60 DEG C of constant temperature stir, solution I is slowly added in solution II, regulator solution pH is 5.0~6.5, adds and continues to stir 30~45min;
(5) the multiple lime set under stirring, step (4) being obtained is cooling, then regulating pH value is 6.5~8.0, add again 0.05~0.2 mass parts curing activity thing, then move into curing reaction in 40~50 DEG C of water-baths, obtain 215~225 mass parts microcapsule emulsion;
(6) microcapsule emulsion is centrifugal, precipitate is scattered in the pure water of 20~30 mass parts with after pure water washing 1~3 time, spraying is dry, obtains a kind of plant whitening preparations of 10~15 mass parts;
The viscosity-average molecular weight of the chitosan described in step (1) is 30~500,000, deacetylation > 90%;
The speed of the stirring described in step (1) is preferably 200~600rpm;
Luteolin described in step (2) is pharmaceutical grade, content > 98.0%, and buying is from emblem associating Innovation Research Center of South China Science & Engineering University-damp;
Cortex Mori extract described in step (2) is Cortex Mori dry obtaining after ethanol/water mixed solvent extracts, and Cortex Mori is commercially available medical material;
Licoflavone described in step (2) is pharmaceutical grade, content > 99.0%, and buying is from emblem associating Innovation Research Center of South China Science & Engineering University-damp;
TANSHINONES described in step (2) is pharmaceutical grade, content > 99.0%, and buying is from emblem associating Innovation Research Center of South China Science & Engineering University-damp;
Vitamin E acetate described in step (2) is cosmetics-stage, and buying is from BASF AG;
Emulsifying agent described in step (2) is one or several in lecithin, soybean lecithin, tea saponin, sapindoside, is preferably food level soybean lecithin;
The speed of the stirring described in step (2) is preferably 300~800rpm;
The condition optimization of the homogenizing described in step (2) is 3000~5000rpm emulsifying, 3~5min;
The viscosity-average molecular weight of the carboxymethyl chitosan described in step (3) is 5~100,000, carboxylation degree > 60%; Being preferably viscosity-average molecular weight is 5~100,000, and carboxylation degree is 65.0~70.0%;
The speed of the stirring described in step (3) is preferably 200~600rpm;
The speed of the stirring described in step (4) is preferably 200~600rpm;
Joining day described in step (4) is preferably 20~40min;
The speed of the stirring described in step (5) is preferably 300~800rpm;
Curing activity thing described in step (5) is at least one in many aldehyde sodium alginates, dialdehyde starch, vanillin, citral;
The time of the curing reaction described in step (5) is preferably 1~3h;
Centrifugal condition optimization described in step (6) is the centrifugal 20~30min of 3000~4000rpm/min;
Spray-dired temperature described in step (6) is preferably 30~45 DEG C;
The plant whitening preparation of being prepared by above-mentioned formula contains and has Cortex Mori extract, and its main component is natural flavone compounds, comprises Sang Su, mulberrochromene, cyclomulberrin, cyclomulberrochromene and morindone, has white-skinned face function;
The plant whitening preparation of being prepared by above-mentioned formula contains and has licoflavone, extracts from liquorice root, has effect of antiallergic, whitening;
The plant whitening preparation of being prepared by above-mentioned formula contains and has TANSHINONES, extracts from plant Radix Salviae Miltiorrhizae, has whitening, antidotal effect;
The plant whitening preparation of being prepared by above-mentioned formula contains and has Vitamin E acetate, has skin nutrition, the effects such as antioxidation, blood circulation promoting.
The present patent application person, in actual cosmetic formulations application, finds that the complex thing of luteolin, Cortex Mori extract, licoflavone, four kinds of natural flavones of TANSHINONES has preferably white-skinned face function;
Described a kind of plant whitening preparation is adapted at applying in skin-lightening cosmetic field;
A kind of skin-lightening cosmetic, comprises following component by mass percentage:
The described cosmetics with white-skinned face function also contain a kind of plant whitening preparation of mass percent 1.5~3.5%;
The described cosmetics with white-skinned face function also contain the antiseptic of mass percent 0.1%;
Described skin-lightening cosmetic is except said components, and all the other are water; Or the mixture of essence and water; The consumption of essence meets national standard, and water is surplus.
The preparation method of described a kind of cosmetics with white-skinned face function, comprises following steps:
I, by ceteareth-2, ceteareth-21, hexadecanol, 16/octadecanol, myristic acid cetylate, 15# white oil, vaseline, dimethicone, Miglyol 812, vitamin E, 2,6-di-t-butyl Pyrogentisinic Acid adds in oil phase reactor, heating makes material melting, stirs;
II, disodiumedetate, card ripple 934, HANSHENGJIAO, triethanolamine, water are added in aqueous phase reactions still, heating makes material dissolution, stirs;
III, oil phase is added in aqueous phase reactions still to emulsifying; After homogenizing, stirring at low speed, in the time that temperature is down to 40 DEG C, adds antiseptic, essence, a kind of plant whitening preparation, obtains having the cosmetics of white-skinned face function.
The speed of the stirring described in step I is preferably 300~500rpm/min;
Fusion temperature described in step I is 75~85 DEG C;
The speed of the stirring described in Step II is preferably 200~400rpm/min;
Solution temperature described in Step II is 80~85 DEG C;
The condition optimization of the emulsifying described in Step II I is 3000~5000rpm/min emulsifying, 3~5min;
The speed of the stirring described in Step II I is preferably 150~300rpm/min.
The present invention has following advantage and effect with respect to prior art:
(1) the plant whitening preparation that prepared by the present invention contain multiple maintain skin-whitening activated feedstock, on the one hand there is good white-skinned face function, also can prevent that on the other hand Exposure to Sunlight from damaging the injury causing to skin;
(2) being made as the cosmetics with white-skinned face function prepared by raw material with microcapsule of the present invention can preserve for a long time, and skin is had no side effect, and is applicable to life-time service.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is melanin value instrument evaluation result figure
Detailed description of the invention
In the following examples, the present invention is further illustrated, and embodiment does not also limit the present invention in any way.All reagent concentrations are mass percent concentration.
The preparation method of plant whitening preparation:
Embodiment 1
(1) chitosan that by the viscosity-average molecular weight of the water of 96 mass parts and 4 mass parts be 300,000, deacetylation is 90.23% mixes, and 200rpm/min stirs, and regulates pH value to 2.5 with glacial acetic acid, and chitosan is dissolved completely, obtains chitosan aqueous solution;
(2) by 1 mass parts luteolin, 2 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, 2 mass parts licoflavones, 1 mass parts TANSHINONES, 8 mass parts Vitamin E acetate mix homogeneously, add 5 mass parts emulsifying agents, 300rpm/min stirs, 3000rpm/min homogenizing 3min, add step (1) chitosan aqueous solution, obtain solution I;
(3) carboxymethyl chitosan that by the viscosity-average molecular weight of 2 mass parts be 50,000, carboxylation degree is 65.0% adds in the water of 98 mass parts, and 200rpm/min stirring and dissolving, obtains solution II;
(4) 40 DEG C of constant temperature, 200rpm/min slowly adds solution I in solution II under stirring, and the time is 20min, and regulator solution pH is 5.0, adds and continues to stir 30min;
(5) the multiple lime set under 300rpm/min stirring, step (4) being obtained is cooling, then regulating pH value is 6.5, add again the many aldehyde sodium alginates of 0.05 mass parts curing activity thing, then move into curing reaction 1h in 40 DEG C of water-baths, obtain 215 mass parts microcapsule emulsion;
(6) by microcapsule emulsion with the centrifugal 20min of 3000rpm/min, precipitate is scattered in the pure water of 20 mass parts with after pure water washing 1 time, 30 DEG C of sprayings are dry, obtain a kind of plant whitening preparations of 10 mass parts.
The plant whitening preparation size making is 8 μ m.
Embodiment 2
(1) chitosan that by the viscosity-average molecular weight of the water of 98 mass parts and 2 mass parts be 500,000, deacetylation is 92.60% mixes, and 600rpm/min stirs, and regulates pH value to 3.5 with glacial acetic acid, and chitosan is dissolved completely, obtains chitosan aqueous solution;
(2) by 2 mass parts luteolins, 3 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, 3 mass parts licoflavones, 2 mass parts TANSHINONES, 10 mass parts Vitamin E acetate mix homogeneously, add 8 mass parts emulsifying agents, 800rpm/min stirs, 5000rpm/min homogenizing 5min, add step (1) chitosan aqueous solution, obtain solution I;
(3) carboxymethyl chitosan that by the viscosity-average molecular weight of 5 mass parts be 100,000, carboxylation degree is 70.0% adds in the water of 95 mass parts, and 600rpm/min stirring and dissolving, obtains solution II;
(4) 40 DEG C of constant temperature, 600rpm/min slowly adds solution I in solution II under stirring, and the time is 40min, and regulator solution pH is 6.5, adds and continues to stir 45min;
(5) the multiple lime set under 800rpm/min stirring, step (4) being obtained is cooling, then regulating pH value is 8.0, add again 0.2 mass parts curing activity thing vanillin, then move into curing reaction 1h in 50 DEG C of water-baths, obtain 225 mass parts microcapsule emulsion;
(6) by microcapsule emulsion with the centrifugal 30min of 4000rpm/min, precipitate is scattered in the pure water of 30 mass parts with after pure water washing 3 times, 45 DEG C of sprayings are dry, obtain a kind of plant whitening preparations of 15 mass parts.
The plant whitening preparation size making is 2 μ m.
Embodiment 3
(1) chitosan that by the viscosity-average molecular weight of the water of 97 mass parts and 3 mass parts be 450,000, deacetylation is 91.17% mixes, and 300rpm/min stirs, and regulates pH value to 3.0 with glacial acetic acid, and chitosan is dissolved completely, obtains chitosan aqueous solution;
(2) by 1.5 mass parts luteolins, 2.5 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, 2.5 mass parts licoflavones, 1.5 mass parts TANSHINONES, 9 mass parts Vitamin E acetate mix homogeneously, add 7 mass parts emulsifying agents, 600rpm/min stirs, 4000rpm/min homogenizing 4min, add step (1) chitosan aqueous solution, obtain solution I;
(3) carboxymethyl chitosan that by the viscosity-average molecular weight of 4 mass parts be 80,000, carboxylation degree is 68.5% adds in the water of 96 mass parts, and 400rpm/min stirring and dissolving, obtains solution II;
(4) 55 DEG C of constant temperature, 400rpm/min slowly adds solution I in solution II under stirring, and the time is 30min, and regulator solution pH is 6.0, adds and continues to stir 40min;
(5) the multiple lime set under 600rpm/min stirring, step (4) being obtained is cooling, then regulating pH value is 7.0, add again the many aldehyde sodium alginates of 0.15 mass parts curing activity thing, then move into curing reaction 2h in 45 DEG C of water-baths, obtain 220 mass parts microcapsule emulsion;
(6) by microcapsule emulsion with the centrifugal 25min of 3500rpm/min, precipitate is scattered in the pure water of 25 mass parts with after pure water washing 2 times, 35 DEG C of sprayings are dry, obtain a kind of plant whitening preparations of 12.5 mass parts.
The plant whitening preparation size making is 10 μ m.
Embodiment 4
(1) chitosan that by the viscosity-average molecular weight of the water of 96.5 mass parts and 3.5 mass parts be 400,000, deacetylation is 90.78% mixes, and 400rpm/min stirs, and regulates pH value to 2.8 with glacial acetic acid, and chitosan is dissolved completely, obtains chitosan aqueous solution;
(2) by 2 mass parts luteolins, 2 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, 2 mass parts licoflavones, 2 mass parts TANSHINONES, 8.5 mass parts Vitamin E acetate mix homogeneously, add 6.5 mass parts emulsifying agents, 550rpm/min stirs, 3800rpm/min homogenizing 4.5min, add step (1) chitosan aqueous solution, obtain solution I;
(3) carboxymethyl chitosan that by the viscosity-average molecular weight of 3 mass parts be 60,000, carboxylation degree is 68.2% adds in the water of 97 mass parts, and 450rpm/min stirring and dissolving, obtains solution II;
(4) 50 DEG C of constant temperature, 500rpm/min slowly adds solution I in solution II under stirring, and the time is 35min, and regulator solution pH is 5.8, adds and continues to stir 35min;
(5) the multiple lime set under 500rpm/min stirring, step (4) being obtained is cooling, then regulating pH value is 7.5, add again 0.1 mass parts curing activity thing dialdehyde starch, then move into curing reaction 2.5h in 42 DEG C of water-baths, obtain 222 mass parts microcapsule emulsion;
(6) by microcapsule emulsion with the centrifugal 25min of 3800rpm/min, precipitate is scattered in the pure water of 28 mass parts with after pure water washing 3 times, 38 DEG C of sprayings are dry, obtain a kind of plant whitening preparations of 13 mass parts.
The plant whitening preparation size making is 6 μ m.
Embodiment 5 skin-lightening cosmetic application (1)
(1) formula:
(2) preparation technology
I, by ceteareth-2, ceteareth-21, hexadecanol, 16/octadecanol, myristic acid cetylate, 15# white oil, vaseline, dimethicone, Miglyol 812, vitamin E, 2,6-di-t-butyl Pyrogentisinic Acid adds in oil phase reactor, heat 75 DEG C and make material melting, 300rpm/min stirs;
II, disodiumedetate, card ripple 934, HANSHENGJIAO, triethanolamine, water are added in aqueous phase reactions still, heat 80 DEG C and make material dissolution, 200rpm/min stirs;
III, oil phase is added in aqueous phase reactions still to 3000rpm/min emulsifying 3min; After homogenizing, 150pm/min stirs, and in the time that temperature is down to 40 DEG C, adds embodiment 1, antiseptic, essence, and continue to stir obtains having the cosmetics of white-skinned face function.
Embodiment 6 skin-lightening cosmetic application (2)
(1) formula:
(2) preparation technology
I, by ceteareth-2, ceteareth-21, hexadecanol, 16/octadecanol, myristic acid cetylate, 15# white oil, vaseline, dimethicone, Miglyol 812, vitamin E, 2,6-di-t-butyl Pyrogentisinic Acid adds in oil phase reactor, heat 75 DEG C and make material melting, 450rpm/min stirs;
II, disodiumedetate, card ripple 934, HANSHENGJIAO, triethanolamine, water are added in aqueous phase reactions still, heat 82 DEG C and make material dissolution, 250rpm/min stirs;
III, oil phase is added in aqueous phase reactions still to 4000rpm/min emulsifying 4min; After homogenizing, 200pm/min stirs, and in the time that temperature is down to 40 DEG C, adds embodiment 2, antiseptic, essence, and continue to stir obtains having the cosmetics of white-skinned face function.
Embodiment 7 skin-lightening cosmetic application (3)
(1) formula:
(2) preparation technology
I, by ceteareth-2, ceteareth-21, hexadecanol, 16/octadecanol, myristic acid cetylate, 15# white oil, vaseline, dimethicone, Miglyol 812, vitamin E, 2,6-di-t-butyl Pyrogentisinic Acid adds in oil phase reactor, heat 85 DEG C and make material melting, 500rpm/min stirs;
II, disodiumedetate, card ripple 934, HANSHENGJIAO, triethanolamine, water are added in aqueous phase reactions still, heat 85 DEG C and make material dissolution, 400rpm/min stirs;
III, oil phase is added in aqueous phase reactions still to 5000rpm/min emulsifying 5min; After homogenizing, 300pm/min stirs, and in the time that temperature is down to 40 DEG C, adds embodiment 3, antiseptic, essence, and continue to stir obtains having the cosmetics of white-skinned face function.
Detection of Stability
Heat resistant test: sample is put into the electro-heating standing-temperature cultivator 24h of (40 ± 1) DEG C, recovered to observe after room temperature whether have thinning, variable color, the phenomenon such as layering and firmness change, with the heat resistance of judgement sample.
Low temperature resistant test: sample is put into (5~-10) DEG C ± the electric refrigerator 24h of 1 DEG C, recovered to observe after room temperature whether have thinning, variable color, the phenomenon such as layering and firmness change, with the cold tolerance of judgement sample.
Centrifugal test: sample is placed in to centrifuge, with the speed test 30min of (2000~4000) r/min, observes separation, the layering situation of sample.
Table 1 Detection of Stability result
Whitening clinical experiment and result
Adopt sense organ evaluation to characterize in conjunction with the method for instrument test
(1) sense organ is evaluated: each 20 volunteers use embodiment 5~7 cosmetics after clean sooner or later, and the time cycle is 60 days, evaluates from whitening effect aspect, and result is as follows:
Table 2 sense organ evaluation result
Whitening effect Embodiment 5 Embodiment 6 Embodiment 7
Very effectively (example) 8 4 4
(example) produces effect 10 10 12
To no effect (example) 2 6 4
Effective percentage (%) 90.0 70.0 80.0
Sense organ evaluation shows, the cosmetics that contain a kind of plant whitening preparation have good effect, and average effectiveness level reaches 80%, and these cosmetics use safety, to human body skin without any stimulation.
(2) instrument evaluation: use dermal melanin and the haemachrome measuring instrument MX18 that German Courage+Khazaka (CK) company produces to measure melanin value in human body forearm inside skin, each measurement 5 times, get its meansigma methods, use the variation of front and back dermal melanin numerical value to assess the skin whitening efficacy of this product by measurement products, volunteer's number is 20 people, time cycle is 28 days, and result as shown in Figure 1; Instrument evaluation result shows, melanin value is totally reduction trend, illustrates that the cosmetics that contain a kind of plant whitening preparation have good whitening effect.
Above-described embodiment is preferably embodiment of the present invention; but embodiments of the present invention are not restricted to the described embodiments; other any do not deviate from change, the modification done under spirit of the present invention and principle, substitutes, combination, simplify; all should be equivalent substitute mode, within being included in protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (4)

1. a plant whitening preparation, is characterized in that preparing by complex coacervation, is made by following steps:
(1) chitosan of the water of 96~98 mass parts and 2~4 mass parts is mixed, stir, with glacial acetic acid adjusting pH value to 2.5~3.5, chitosan is dissolved completely, obtain chitosan aqueous solution;
(2) by 1~2 mass parts luteolin, 2~3 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, 2~3 mass parts licoflavones, 1~2 mass parts TANSHINONES, 8~10 mass parts vitamin E mix homogeneously, add 5~8 mass parts emulsifying agents, stir, under homogenizing, add step (1) chitosan aqueous solution, obtain solution I;
(3) carboxymethyl chitosan of 2~5 mass parts is added in the water of 95~98 mass parts, stirring and dissolving, obtains solution II;
Under (4) 40~60 DEG C of constant temperature stir, solution I is slowly added in solution II, regulator solution pH is 5.0~6.5, adds and continues to stir 30~45min;
(5) the multiple lime set under stirring, step (4) being obtained is cooling, then regulating pH value is 6.5~8.0, add again 0.05~0.2 mass parts firming agent, then move into curing reaction in 40~50 DEG C of water-baths, obtain 215~225 mass parts microcapsule emulsion;
(6) microcapsule emulsion is centrifugal, precipitate is scattered in the pure water of 20~30 mass parts with after pure water washing 1~3 time, spraying is dry, obtains a kind of plant whitening preparations of 10~15 mass parts.Described plant whitening preparation particle size distribution is 2~20 μ m, is preferably 2~10 μ m; Spherical rule, favorable dispersibility; Described plant whitening preparation contains and has luteolin, extracts from plant reseda, and be a kind of natural flavone compounds, its structure of luteolin is:
The viscosity-average molecular weight of the chitosan described in step (1) is 30~500,000, deacetylation > 90%;
The speed of the stirring described in step (1) is preferably 200~600rpm;
Luteolin described in step (2) is pharmaceutical grade, content > 98.0%;
Cortex Mori extract described in step (2) is Cortex Mori dry obtaining after ethanol/water mixed solvent extracts, and Cortex Mori is commercially available medical material;
Licoflavone described in step (2) is pharmaceutical grade, content > 99.0%;
TANSHINONES described in step (2) is pharmaceutical grade, content > 99.0%;
Vitamin E described in step (2) is cosmetics-stage;
Emulsifying agent described in step (2) is one or several in lecithin, soybean lecithin, tea saponin, sapindoside, is preferably food level soybean lecithin;
The speed of the stirring described in step (2) is preferably 300~800rpm;
The condition optimization of the homogenizing described in step (2) is 3000~5000rpm emulsifying, 3~5min;
The viscosity-average molecular weight of the carboxymethyl chitosan described in step (3) is 5~100,000, carboxylation degree > 60%; Being preferably viscosity-average molecular weight is 5~100,000, and carboxylation degree is 65.0~70.0%;
The speed of the stirring described in step (3) is 200~600rpm;
The speed of the stirring described in step (4) is 200~600rpm;
Joining day described in step (4) is 20~40min;
The speed of the stirring described in step (5) is 300~800rpm;
Firming agent described in step (5) is at least one in Biformyl, glutaraldehyde, dialdehyde starch and vanillin;
The time of the curing reaction described in step (5) is preferably 1~3h;
Centrifugal condition optimization described in step (6) is the centrifugal 20~30min of 3000~4000rpm/min;
Spray-dired temperature described in step (6) is preferably 30~45 DEG C.
2. a skin-lightening cosmetic, is characterized in that comprising following component by mass percentage:
Described skin-lightening cosmetic also contains the plant whitening preparation claimed in claim 1 of mass percent 1.5~3.5%;
Described skin-lightening cosmetic also contains the antiseptic of mass percent 0.1%;
Described skin-lightening cosmetic is except said components, and all the other are water; Or the mixture of essence and water; The consumption of essence meets national standard, and water is surplus.
3. the preparation method of skin-lightening cosmetic according to claim 2, comprises following steps:
I, according to above-mentioned mass percent, ceteareth-2, ceteareth-21,16/octadecanol, isopropyl myristate, 26# white oil, shea butter, dimethicone, Miglyol 812 are added in oil phase reactor, heating makes material melting, stirs;
II, by vitamin E, 2,6-di-t-butyl Pyrogentisinic Acid, disodiumedetate, carbopol 940, HANSHENGJIAO, triethanolamine, water add in aqueous phase reactions still, heating make material dissolution, stir;
III, oil phase is added in aqueous phase reactions still to emulsifying; After homogenizing, stirring at low speed, in the time that temperature is down to 40 DEG C, adds antiseptic, essence, obtains having the cosmetics of white-skinned face function.
The speed of the stirring described in step I is preferably 300~500rpm/min;
Fusion temperature described in step I is 75~85 DEG C;
The speed of the stirring described in Step II is preferably 200~400rpm/min;
Solution temperature described in Step II is 80~85 DEG C;
The condition optimization of the emulsifying described in Step II I is 3000~5000rpm/min emulsifying, 3~5min;
The speed of the stirring described in Step II I is preferably 150~300rpm/min.
4. plant whitening preparation according to claim 1, is characterized in that: in skin-lightening cosmetic field, apply.
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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105616174A (en) * 2016-01-28 2016-06-01 广州媛点生物科技有限公司 Microsphere wrapped with skin-whitening active ingredient, preparation method of microsphere wrapped with skin-whitening active ingredient and skin-whitening cosmetic
CN106619148A (en) * 2017-01-17 2017-05-10 上海应用技术大学 Water-soluble glabridin microcapsule and preparation method thereof
CN113262174A (en) * 2021-05-25 2021-08-17 广州暨创医美生物科技有限公司 Preparation method of gel balls wrapping functional ingredients of cosmetics, products prepared by gel balls and application of gel balls

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CN101564365A (en) * 2008-04-21 2009-10-28 曲奕 Plant essence high-efficacy concentrated whitening essence liquid
CN101961299A (en) * 2010-09-28 2011-02-02 清华大学 Chinese herbal medicinal gel cosmetic and preparation method thereof
CN102311892A (en) * 2010-06-29 2012-01-11 李正全 Natural plant whitening soap

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CN101564365A (en) * 2008-04-21 2009-10-28 曲奕 Plant essence high-efficacy concentrated whitening essence liquid
CN102311892A (en) * 2010-06-29 2012-01-11 李正全 Natural plant whitening soap
CN101961299A (en) * 2010-09-28 2011-02-02 清华大学 Chinese herbal medicinal gel cosmetic and preparation method thereof

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105616174A (en) * 2016-01-28 2016-06-01 广州媛点生物科技有限公司 Microsphere wrapped with skin-whitening active ingredient, preparation method of microsphere wrapped with skin-whitening active ingredient and skin-whitening cosmetic
CN105616174B (en) * 2016-01-28 2019-03-15 广州媛点生物科技有限公司 A kind of microballoon being enclosed with whitening active ingredients and its preparation method and a kind of Skin whitening care cosmetics
CN106619148A (en) * 2017-01-17 2017-05-10 上海应用技术大学 Water-soluble glabridin microcapsule and preparation method thereof
CN113262174A (en) * 2021-05-25 2021-08-17 广州暨创医美生物科技有限公司 Preparation method of gel balls wrapping functional ingredients of cosmetics, products prepared by gel balls and application of gel balls

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