CN104207985B - A kind of plant whitening preparation and preparation method thereof and the application in skin-lightening cosmetic - Google Patents

A kind of plant whitening preparation and preparation method thereof and the application in skin-lightening cosmetic Download PDF

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CN104207985B
CN104207985B CN201410436872.2A CN201410436872A CN104207985B CN 104207985 B CN104207985 B CN 104207985B CN 201410436872 A CN201410436872 A CN 201410436872A CN 104207985 B CN104207985 B CN 104207985B
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王丽杰
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Guangzhou Jin Yang Cosmetics Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of plant whitening preparation, prepared by complex coacervation, by water and chitosan mixing, stir, with glacial acetic acid adjust ph to 2.5 ~ 3.5, chitosan is dissolved completely, obtains aqueous solution; By luteolin, Cortex Mori extract, licoflavone, TANSHINONES, vitamin E mix homogeneously, add emulsifying agent, stir, under homogenizing, add chitosan aqueous solution, obtain solution I; Be added to the water by carboxymethyl chitosan, stirring and dissolving obtains solution II; Under 40 ~ 60 DEG C of constant temperature stir, solution I is slowly added in solution II, regulate pH value of solution to be 5.0 ~ 6.5, add and continue stirring 30 ~ 45min; Multiple lime set cooling, then adjust ph is 6.5 ~ 8.0, then adds firming agent, moves into curing reaction in 40 ~ 50 DEG C of water-baths, obtains microcapsule emulsion; Microcapsule emulsion is centrifugal, and be scattered in the pure water of 20 ~ 30 mass parts by after precipitate pure water 1 ~ 3 time, spraying dry, obtains plant whitening preparation.There is effect blood circulation promoting effect of antiallergic, whitening.

Description

A kind of plant whitening preparation and preparation method thereof and the application in skin-lightening cosmetic
Technical field
The present invention relates to household chemicals technical field, be specifically related to a kind of plant whitening preparation and preparation method thereof and the application in skin-lightening cosmetic.
Background technology
Bright and clean, pale, ruddy skin is the beauty treatment prevailing custom that Nails is pursued always, wishes the effect reaching " skin is as snow, solidifying as fat ".People used whitening product often to cover raw material containing the physics of titanium dioxide one class in the past, temporary whitening can modify oneself skin.Along with the progress of science and technology, the whitening that today, women pursued has deeper physiological demand, pursue the pale of overall skin, as mottle desalination, dispel and prevent Pigmented generation, require that whitening product has safety, gentle, performance efficiently simultaneously.
Whitening class Cosmetic Market is increasingly active, and production marketing grows with each passing day, one of main flow kind having become skin protection cosmetics.About the research of the aspects such as whitening, whitening agent, whitening evaluation, lightening mechanism deepens continuously, cause the extensive concern of lot of domestic and foreign scientific research institution and manufacturer.
The cosmetic material with white-skinned face function common at present has: kojic acid and derivant, hydroquinone and derivant thereof, vitamin C and derivant, fruit acid etc.
Kojic acid is also called kojic acid, and chemical name is Kojic acid, soluble in water.Its lightening mechanism is the activity of restraint of tyrosinase, can suppress again 5,6-dihydroxy indole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) oxidase active simultaneously, blocks DHI polymerization.This is little a kind of single whitening agent that simultaneously can suppress multiple enzyme.But kojic acid is due to unstable to light, heat and metal ion, and skin absorption is poor, medical research in recent years finds, life-time service kojic acid may cause cytotoxic, causes dermatosis.Kojic acid derivative lightening mechanism is identical with kojic acid, and current skin-lightening cosmetic mostly is kojic acid derivative, but kojic acid derivative also exists the problem similar with kojic acid.
Hydroquinone is traditional whitening and speckle dispelling composition, but because safety problem has now been not suitable as the whitening agent of cosmetics.Arbutin is the important derivatives of hydroquinone, and chemical name is hydroquinone glucoside, and arbutin effectively can reduce melanocyte under the concentration not affecting cell proliferation, and safety is higher, and whitening effect is obvious.Shortcoming is the photosensitivity with height, thus will add a large amount of sunscreen in product, easily cause burden to skin, accelerates skin aging.
Vitamin C and derivant thereof are responsible for the effect of oxidation and reduction in vivo, the intermediate DOPA quinone of reducible melanocyte, therefore have the melanogenic effect of suppression.But vitamin C and derivant stability relatively poor, in cream frost, if not in addition protection can lose activity very soon, therefore need its parcel to prevent it from losing activity.
Fruit acid is the organic acid extracted from fruit, and fruit acid main component is 'alpha '-hydroxy acids, comprises glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid etc., and majority is present in fruit (Fructus Citri Limoniae, Fructus Mali pumilae, Fructus Vitis viniferae etc.), is commonly called as fruit acid.Fruit acid is mainly by infiltrating into keratodermatitis, promote that in aging cutin layer, intercellular bonding force weakens, accelerate cell turnover speed and promote that the aspects such as dead cell disengaging reach the object improving skin condition, make skin surface smooth, fine and smooth, glossy.But excessively use fruit acid that horny layer can be made more and more thinner, lose the function of protection skin, cause more serious melanin deposition phenomenon on the contrary.After using fruit acid, skin can become more responsive to ultraviolet is also generally acknowledged.
Containing flavonoid, Polyphenols natural materials in many plants, there is good whitening effect.The Chinese herbal medicine that China is traditional, as Radix Angelicae Sinensis, Flos Magnoliae, Rhizoma Chuanxiong, Radix Salviae Miltiorrhizae etc., containing multiple flavonoid, alkaloid, aminoacid, vitamin and trace element etc., except there is antibacterial, antiinflammatory, antiallergic, scavenging free radicals, improving except the pharmacological action of blood circulation, also have and brighten and beauty functions.In addition Rhizoma Typhonii, the Radix Angelicae Dahuricae, Poria, the Radix Paeoniae Alba, the Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae, Radix Puerariae, Semen Cuscutae etc. are also had also to have certain skin whitening effect.
Along with the rise of concept in cosmetics such as " green ", " natural ", " gentleness ", " organic ", " plant origin ", plant extract component more and more comes into one's own at cosmetic field, and will become the development trend of a very long time from now on.But the most medicinal herb components with white-skinned face function applies the defect in application in cosmetics, is first have larger dissolubility in organic solvent, but is insoluble in water; Next adds difficulty in cosmetic formulations, often can not compatibility well with other components in cosmetics; Be skin percutaneous absorbtion difficulty again, farthest can not play effect.Therefore find the dissolving difficult problem solving whitening composition, and ensure stablizing in formula, and the Important Problems being absorbed by the skin and becoming the primary solution of cosmetic formulations exploitation of comparatively changing places.
Summary of the invention
Primary and foremost purpose of the present invention be to overcome whitening material composition in prior art not soluble, unstable, easily decompose, affect the deficiency of white-skinned face function, a kind of plant whitening preparation be provided, there is good whitening function.
Another object of the present invention is to the preparation method that a kind of plant whitening preparation is provided.
Another object of the present invention is the application providing a kind of plant whitening preparation at cosmetics, and other components in said preparation and cosmetic formulations have the good compatibility, and whitening composition can be absorbed by the skin relatively easily.
Object of the present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions:
A kind of plant whitening preparation, comprise core and wall material, particle size distribution is 2 ~ 20 μm, is preferably 2 ~ 10 μm; Spherical rule, favorable dispersibility;
Core contains 1 ~ 2 mass parts luteolin, and extract from plant reseda, its structure is:
Core contains 2 ~ 3 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, and its composition is natural flavone compounds, comprises Sang Su, mulberrochromene, cyclomulberrin, cyclomulberrochromene and morindone;
Core contains 2 ~ 3 mass parts licoflavones, extracts from liquorice root;
Core contains 1-2 mass parts part TANSHINONES, extracts from plant Radix Salviae Miltiorrhizae;
Core contains 8 ~ 10 parts of Vitamin E acetate;
Wall material contains chitosan and carboxymethyl chitosan, and chitosan is the basic amine group polysaccharide that natural saccharide uniquely exists in a large number; Carboxymethyl chitosan is the product after chitosan carboxylation; Chitosan in wall material and carboxymethyl chitosan, be cross-linked by aldehydes curing activity thing;
Removing mentioned component, all the other are the common adjuvant in preparation process.
Core contains Vitamin E acetate, can improve skin-nourishing, improves the effect of skin activity;
Wall material contains chitosan and carboxymethyl chitosan, and chitosan is the basic amine group polysaccharide that natural saccharide uniquely exists in a large number, has the performances such as the bacteria resistance of good biocompatibility, biological degradability and wide spectrum; Carboxymethyl chitosan is the product after chitosan carboxylation, and the basis remaining with chitosan performance improves the water solublity of chitosan; Chitosan and carboxymethyl chitosan safety non-toxic, have good moisture-keeping function;
Chitosan in wall material and carboxymethyl chitosan, be cross-linked by aldehydes curing activity thing;
A preparation method for plant whitening preparation, for being prepared by complex coacervation, comprises following steps:
(1) chitosan of the water of 96 ~ 98 mass parts and 2 ~ 4 mass parts is mixed, stir, with glacial acetic acid adjust ph to 2.5 ~ 3.5, chitosan is dissolved completely, obtains chitosan aqueous solution;
(2) by 1 ~ 2 mass parts luteolin, 2 ~ 3 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, 2 ~ 3 mass parts licoflavones, 1 ~ 2 mass parts TANSHINONES, 8 ~ 10 mass parts Vitamin E acetate mix homogeneously, add 5 ~ 8 mass parts emulsifying agents, stir, under homogenizing, add step (1) chitosan aqueous solution, obtain solution I;
(3) added by the carboxymethyl chitosan of 2 ~ 5 mass parts in the water of 95 ~ 98 mass parts, stirring and dissolving, obtains solution II;
Under (4) 40 ~ 60 DEG C of constant temperature stir, solution I is slowly added in solution II, regulate pH value of solution to be 5.0 ~ 6.5, add and continue stirring 30 ~ 45min;
(5) the multiple lime set cooling under stirring, step (4) obtained, then adjust ph is 6.5 ~ 8.0, add 0.05 ~ 0.2 mass parts curing activity thing again, then move into curing reaction in 40 ~ 50 DEG C of water-baths, obtain 215 ~ 225 mass parts microcapsule emulsion;
(6) microcapsule emulsion is centrifugal, be scattered in the pure water of 20 ~ 30 mass parts by after precipitate pure water 1 ~ 3 time, spraying dry, obtain a kind of plant whitening preparations of 10 ~ 15 mass parts;
The viscosity-average molecular weight of the chitosan described in step (1) is 30 ~ 500,000, deacetylation > 90%;
The speed of the stirring described in step (1) is preferably 200 ~ 600rpm;
Luteolin described in step (2) is pharmaceutical grade, content > 98.0%, purchases from South China Science & Engineering University-united innovation research center, damp emblem;
Cortex Mori extract described in step (2) is that Cortex Mori drying after ethanol/water mixed solvent extracts obtains, and Cortex Mori is commercially available medical material;
Licoflavone described in step (2) is pharmaceutical grade, content > 99.0%, purchases from South China Science & Engineering University-united innovation research center, damp emblem;
TANSHINONES described in step (2) is pharmaceutical grade, content > 99.0%, purchases from South China Science & Engineering University-united innovation research center, damp emblem;
Vitamin E acetate described in step (2) is cosmetics-stage, adopts available from BASF;
Emulsifying agent described in step (2) is one or several in lecithin, soybean lecithin, tea saponin, sapindoside, is preferably food grade soy lecithin;
The speed of the stirring described in step (2) is preferably 300 ~ 800rpm;
The condition of the homogenizing described in step (2) is preferably 3000 ~ 5000rpm emulsifying, 3 ~ 5min;
The viscosity-average molecular weight of the carboxymethyl chitosan described in step (3) is 5 ~ 100,000, carboxylation degree > 60%; Being preferably viscosity-average molecular weight is 5 ~ 100,000, and carboxylation degree is 65.0 ~ 70.0%;
The speed of the stirring described in step (3) is preferably 200 ~ 600rpm;
The speed of the stirring described in step (4) is preferably 200 ~ 600rpm;
Joining day described in step (4) is preferably 20 ~ 40min;
The speed of the stirring described in step (5) is preferably 300 ~ 800rpm;
Curing activity thing described in step (5) is at least one in many aldehyde sodium alginates, dialdehyde starch, vanillin, citral;
The time of the curing reaction described in step (5) is preferably 1 ~ 3h;
Centrifugal condition described in step (6) is preferably the centrifugal 20 ~ 30min of 3000 ~ 4000rpm/min;
Spray-dired temperature described in step (6) is preferably 30 ~ 45 DEG C;
The plant whitening preparation prepared by above-mentioned formula contains and has Cortex Mori extract, and its main component is natural flavone compounds, comprises Sang Su, mulberrochromene, cyclomulberrin, cyclomulberrochromene and morindone, has white-skinned face function;
The plant whitening preparation prepared by above-mentioned formula contains and has licoflavone, extracts from liquorice root, has effect of antiallergic, whitening;
The plant whitening preparation prepared by above-mentioned formula contains and has TANSHINONES, extracts from plant Radix Salviae Miltiorrhizae, has whitening, antidotal effect;
The plant whitening preparation prepared by above-mentioned formula contains and has Vitamin E acetate, has skin nutrition, the effect such as antioxidation, blood circulation promoting.
The present patent application person, in the cosmetic formulations application of reality, finds that the complex thing of luteolin, Cortex Mori extract, licoflavone, TANSHINONES four kinds of natural flavones has preferably white-skinned face function;
Described a kind of plant whitening preparation is adapted at applying in skin-lightening cosmetic field;
A kind of skin-lightening cosmetic, comprises following component by mass percentage:
A kind of plant whitening preparation of the described cosmetics with white-skinned face function also containing mass percent 1.5 ~ 3.5%;
The antiseptic of the described cosmetics with white-skinned face function also containing mass percent 0.1%;
Described skin-lightening cosmetic is except said components, and all the other are water; Or the mixture of essence and water; The consumption of essence meets national standard, and water is surplus.
Described a kind of preparation method with the cosmetics of white-skinned face function, comprises following steps:
I, by ceteareth-2, ceteareth-21, hexadecanol, 16/octadecanol, myristic acid cetylate, 15# white oil, vaseline, dimethicone, Miglyol 812, vitamin E, 2,6-di-t-butyl Pyrogentisinic Acid adds in oil phase reactor, heating makes material melting, stirs;
II, add in aqueous phase reactions still by disodiumedetate, card ripple 934, HANSHENGJIAO, triethanolamine, water, heating makes material dissolution, stirs;
III, oil phase is added in aqueous phase reactions still, emulsifying; After homogenizing, stirring at low speed, when temperature is down to 40 DEG C, adds antiseptic, essence, a kind of plant whitening preparation, namely obtains the cosmetics with white-skinned face function.
The speed of the stirring described in step I is preferably 300 ~ 500rpm/min;
Fusion temperature described in step I is 75 ~ 85 DEG C;
The speed of the stirring described in Step II is preferably 200 ~ 400rpm/min;
Solution temperature described in Step II is 80 ~ 85 DEG C;
The condition of the emulsifying described in Step II I is preferably 3000 ~ 5000rpm/min emulsifying, 3 ~ 5min;
The speed of the stirring described in Step II I is preferably 150 ~ 300rpm/min.
The present invention has following advantage and effect relative to prior art:
(1) the plant whitening preparation that prepared by the present invention contain multiple maintenance skin-whitening activated feedstock, on the one hand there is good white-skinned face function, the injury that also can prevent sun exposure damage from causing to skin on the other hand;
(2) be made as the cosmetics with white-skinned face function prepared by raw material with microcapsule of the present invention can preserve for a long time, skin is had no side effect, be applicable to life-time service.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is melanin value instrument evaluation result figure
Detailed description of the invention
In the following examples, the present invention is further illustrated, and embodiment does not also limit the present invention in any way.All reagent concentrations are mass percent concentration.
The preparation method of plant whitening preparation:
Embodiment 1
(1) be 300,000 by the viscosity-average molecular weight of the water of 96 mass parts and 4 mass parts, deacetylation be 90.23% chitosan mixing, 200rpm/min stirs, and by glacial acetic acid adjust ph to 2.5, chitosan is dissolved completely, obtains chitosan aqueous solution;
(2) by 1 mass parts luteolin, 2 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, 2 mass parts licoflavones, 1 mass parts TANSHINONES, 8 mass parts Vitamin E acetate mix homogeneously, add 5 mass parts emulsifying agents, 300rpm/min stirs, 3000rpm/min homogenizing 3min, add step (1) chitosan aqueous solution, obtain solution I;
(3) be 50,000 by the viscosity-average molecular weight of 2 mass parts, carboxylation degree be 65.0% carboxymethyl chitosan add in the water of 98 mass parts, 200rpm/min stirring and dissolving, obtains solution II;
(4) 40 DEG C of constant temperature, under 200rpm/min stirs, solution I slowly added in solution II, the time is 20min, regulates pH value of solution to be 5.0, adds and continues to stir 30min;
(5) the multiple lime set cooling under 300rpm/min stirring, step (4) obtained, then adjust ph is 6.5, add the many aldehyde sodium alginates of 0.05 mass parts curing activity thing again, then move into curing reaction 1h in 40 DEG C of water-baths, obtain 215 mass parts microcapsule emulsion;
(6) by microcapsule emulsion with the centrifugal 20min of 3000rpm/min, be scattered in the pure water of 20 mass parts by after precipitate pure water 1 time, 30 DEG C of spraying dry, obtain a kind of plant whitening preparations of 10 mass parts.
Obtained plant whitening preparation size is 8 μm.
Embodiment 2
(1) be 500,000 by the viscosity-average molecular weight of the water of 98 mass parts and 2 mass parts, deacetylation be 92.60% chitosan mixing, 600rpm/min stirs, and by glacial acetic acid adjust ph to 3.5, chitosan is dissolved completely, obtains chitosan aqueous solution;
(2) by 2 mass parts luteolins, 3 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, 3 mass parts licoflavones, 2 mass parts TANSHINONES, 10 mass parts Vitamin E acetate mix homogeneously, add 8 mass parts emulsifying agents, 800rpm/min stirs, 5000rpm/min homogenizing 5min, add step (1) chitosan aqueous solution, obtain solution I;
(3) be 100,000 by the viscosity-average molecular weight of 5 mass parts, carboxylation degree be 70.0% carboxymethyl chitosan add in the water of 95 mass parts, 600rpm/min stirring and dissolving, obtains solution II;
(4) 40 DEG C of constant temperature, under 600rpm/min stirs, solution I slowly added in solution II, the time is 40min, regulates pH value of solution to be 6.5, adds and continues to stir 45min;
(5) the multiple lime set cooling under 800rpm/min stirring, step (4) obtained, then adjust ph is 8.0, add 0.2 mass parts curing activity thing vanillin again, then move into curing reaction 1h in 50 DEG C of water-baths, obtain 225 mass parts microcapsule emulsion;
(6) by microcapsule emulsion with the centrifugal 30min of 4000rpm/min, be scattered in the pure water of 30 mass parts by after precipitate pure water 3 times, 45 DEG C of spraying dry, obtain a kind of plant whitening preparations of 15 mass parts.
Obtained plant whitening preparation size is 2 μm.
Embodiment 3
(1) be 450,000 by the viscosity-average molecular weight of the water of 97 mass parts and 3 mass parts, deacetylation be 91.17% chitosan mixing, 300rpm/min stirs, and by glacial acetic acid adjust ph to 3.0, chitosan is dissolved completely, obtains chitosan aqueous solution;
(2) by 1.5 mass parts luteolins, 2.5 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, 2.5 mass parts licoflavones, 1.5 mass parts TANSHINONES, 9 mass parts Vitamin E acetate mix homogeneously, add 7 mass parts emulsifying agents, 600rpm/min stirs, 4000rpm/min homogenizing 4min, add step (1) chitosan aqueous solution, obtain solution I;
(3) be 80,000 by the viscosity-average molecular weight of 4 mass parts, carboxylation degree be 68.5% carboxymethyl chitosan add in the water of 96 mass parts, 400rpm/min stirring and dissolving, obtains solution II;
(4) 55 DEG C of constant temperature, under 400rpm/min stirs, solution I slowly added in solution II, the time is 30min, regulates pH value of solution to be 6.0, adds and continues to stir 40min;
(5) the multiple lime set cooling under 600rpm/min stirring, step (4) obtained, then adjust ph is 7.0, add the many aldehyde sodium alginates of 0.15 mass parts curing activity thing again, then move into curing reaction 2h in 45 DEG C of water-baths, obtain 220 mass parts microcapsule emulsion;
(6) by microcapsule emulsion with the centrifugal 25min of 3500rpm/min, be scattered in the pure water of 25 mass parts by after precipitate pure water 2 times, 35 DEG C of spraying dry, obtain a kind of plant whitening preparations of 12.5 mass parts.
Obtained plant whitening preparation size is 10 μm.
Embodiment 4
(1) be 400,000 by the viscosity-average molecular weight of the water of 96.5 mass parts and 3.5 mass parts, deacetylation be 90.78% chitosan mixing, 400rpm/min stirs, and by glacial acetic acid adjust ph to 2.8, chitosan is dissolved completely, obtains chitosan aqueous solution;
(2) by 2 mass parts luteolins, 2 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, 2 mass parts licoflavones, 2 mass parts TANSHINONES, 8.5 mass parts Vitamin E acetate mix homogeneously, add 6.5 mass parts emulsifying agents, 550rpm/min stirs, 3800rpm/min homogenizing 4.5min, add step (1) chitosan aqueous solution, obtain solution I;
(3) be 60,000 by the viscosity-average molecular weight of 3 mass parts, carboxylation degree be 68.2% carboxymethyl chitosan add in the water of 97 mass parts, 450rpm/min stirring and dissolving, obtains solution II;
(4) 50 DEG C of constant temperature, under 500rpm/min stirs, solution I slowly added in solution II, the time is 35min, regulates pH value of solution to be 5.8, adds and continues to stir 35min;
(5) the multiple lime set cooling under 500rpm/min stirring, step (4) obtained, then adjust ph is 7.5, add 0.1 mass parts curing activity thing dialdehyde starch again, then move into curing reaction 2.5h in 42 DEG C of water-baths, obtain 222 mass parts microcapsule emulsion;
(6) by microcapsule emulsion with the centrifugal 25min of 3800rpm/min, be scattered in the pure water of 28 mass parts by after precipitate pure water 3 times, 38 DEG C of spraying dry, obtain a kind of plant whitening preparations of 13 mass parts.
Obtained plant whitening preparation size is 6 μm.
Embodiment 5 skin-lightening cosmetic application (1)
(1) formula:
(2) preparation technology
I, by ceteareth-2, ceteareth-21, hexadecanol, 16/octadecanol, myristic acid cetylate, 15# white oil, vaseline, dimethicone, Miglyol 812, vitamin E, 2,6-di-t-butyl Pyrogentisinic Acid adds in oil phase reactor, heat 75 DEG C and make material melting, 300rpm/min stirs;
II, add in aqueous phase reactions still by disodiumedetate, card ripple 934, HANSHENGJIAO, triethanolamine, water, heat 80 DEG C and make material dissolution, 200rpm/min stirs;
III, oil phase is added in aqueous phase reactions still, 3000rpm/min emulsifying 3min; After homogenizing, 150pm/min stirs, and when temperature is down to 40 DEG C, add embodiment 1, antiseptic, essence, namely continue to stir obtains having the cosmetics of white-skinned face function.
Embodiment 6 skin-lightening cosmetic application (2)
(1) formula:
(2) preparation technology
I, by ceteareth-2, ceteareth-21, hexadecanol, 16/octadecanol, myristic acid cetylate, 15# white oil, vaseline, dimethicone, Miglyol 812, vitamin E, 2,6-di-t-butyl Pyrogentisinic Acid adds in oil phase reactor, heat 75 DEG C and make material melting, 450rpm/min stirs;
II, add in aqueous phase reactions still by disodiumedetate, card ripple 934, HANSHENGJIAO, triethanolamine, water, heat 82 DEG C and make material dissolution, 250rpm/min stirs;
III, oil phase is added in aqueous phase reactions still, 4000rpm/min emulsifying 4min; After homogenizing, 200pm/min stirs, and when temperature is down to 40 DEG C, add embodiment 2, antiseptic, essence, namely continue to stir obtains having the cosmetics of white-skinned face function.
Embodiment 7 skin-lightening cosmetic application (3)
(1) formula:
(2) preparation technology
I, by ceteareth-2, ceteareth-21, hexadecanol, 16/octadecanol, myristic acid cetylate, 15# white oil, vaseline, dimethicone, Miglyol 812, vitamin E, 2,6-di-t-butyl Pyrogentisinic Acid adds in oil phase reactor, heat 85 DEG C and make material melting, 500rpm/min stirs;
II, add in aqueous phase reactions still by disodiumedetate, card ripple 934, HANSHENGJIAO, triethanolamine, water, heat 85 DEG C and make material dissolution, 400rpm/min stirs;
III, oil phase is added in aqueous phase reactions still, 5000rpm/min emulsifying 5min; After homogenizing, 300pm/min stirs, and when temperature is down to 40 DEG C, add embodiment 3, antiseptic, essence, namely continue to stir obtains having the cosmetics of white-skinned face function.
Detection of Stability
Heat resistant test: electro-heating standing-temperature cultivator 24h sample being put into (40 ± 1) DEG C, observes phenomenons such as whether having thinning, variable color, layering and firmness change, with the heat resistance of judgement sample after recovering room temperature.
Low temperature resistant test: sample is put into (-5 ~-10) DEG C ± electric refrigerator 24h of 1 DEG C, observes phenomenons such as whether having thinning, variable color, layering and firmness change, with the cold tolerance of judgement sample after recovering room temperature.
Centrifugal test: sample is placed in centrifuge, with the speed test 30min of (2000 ~ 4000) r/min, observes the separation of sample, point layer status.
Table 1 Detection of Stability result
Whitening clinical experiment and result
Aesthetic evaluation is adopted to characterize in conjunction with the method for instrument test
(1) aesthetic evaluation: use embodiment 5 ~ 7 cosmetics after each clean of 20 volunteers morning and evening, the time cycle is 60 days, and evaluate from whitening effect aspect, result is as follows:
The aesthetic evaluation result of table 2
Whitening effect Embodiment 5 Embodiment 6 Embodiment 7
Very effectively (example) 8 4 4
Effective (example) 10 10 12
To no effect (example) 2 6 4
Effective percentage (%) 90.0 70.0 80.0
Aesthetic evaluation shows, the cosmetics containing a kind of plant whitening preparation have good effect, and average effectiveness level reaches 80%, and this cosmetics use safety, to human body skin without any stimulation.
(2) instrument evaluation: the dermal melanin using German Courage+Khazaka (CK) company to produce and haemachrome measuring instrument MX18 measure melanin value in human body forearm inside skin, each measurement 5 times, get its meansigma methods, before and after being used by measurement products, the skin whitening efficacy of this product is assessed in the change of dermal melanin numerical value, volunteer's number is 20 people, time cycle is 28 days, and result as shown in Figure 1; Instrument evaluation result shows, melanin value totally in reduction trend, illustrates that the cosmetics containing a kind of plant whitening preparation have good whitening effect.
Above-described embodiment is the present invention's preferably embodiment; but embodiments of the present invention are not restricted to the described embodiments; change, the modification done under other any does not deviate from spirit of the present invention and principle, substitute, combine, simplify; all should be the substitute mode of equivalence, be included within protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (4)

1. a plant whitening preparation, be is characterized in that being prepared by complex coacervation, is obtained by following steps:
(1) chitosan of the water of 96 ~ 98 mass parts and 2 ~ 4 mass parts is mixed, stir, with glacial acetic acid adjust ph to 2.5 ~ 3.5, chitosan is dissolved completely, obtains chitosan aqueous solution;
(2) by 1 ~ 2 mass parts luteolin, 2 ~ 3 mass parts Cortex Mori extract, 2 ~ 3 mass parts licoflavones, 1 ~ 2 mass parts TANSHINONES, 8 ~ 10 mass parts Vitamin E acetate mix homogeneously, add 5 ~ 8 mass parts emulsifying agents, stir, under homogenizing, add step (1) chitosan aqueous solution, obtain solution I;
(3) added by the carboxymethyl chitosan of 2 ~ 5 mass parts in the water of 95 ~ 98 mass parts, stirring and dissolving, obtains solution II;
Under (4) 40 ~ 60 DEG C of constant temperature stir, solution I is slowly added in solution II, regulate pH value of solution to be 5.0 ~ 6.5, add and continue stirring 30 ~ 45min;
(5) the multiple lime set cooling under stirring, step (4) obtained, then adjust ph is 6.5 ~ 8.0, add 0.05 ~ 0.2 mass parts curing activity thing again, then move into curing reaction in 40 ~ 50 DEG C of water-baths, obtain 215 ~ 225 mass parts microcapsule emulsion;
(6) microcapsule emulsion is centrifugal, be scattered in the pure water of 20 ~ 30 mass parts by after precipitate pure water 1 ~ 3 time, spraying dry, obtain a kind of plant whitening preparations of 10 ~ 15 mass parts; Described plant whitening preparation particle size distribution is 2 ~ 20 μm; Described plant whitening preparation contains luteolin;
The viscosity-average molecular weight of the chitosan described in step (1) is 30 ~ 500,000, deacetylation > 90%;
The speed of the stirring described in step (1) is 200 ~ 600rpm;
Cortex Mori extract described in step (2) is that Cortex Mori drying after ethanol/water mixed solvent extracts obtains, and Cortex Mori is commercially available medical material;
Emulsifying agent described in step (2) is one or several in lecithin, tea saponin, sapindoside;
The speed of the stirring described in step (2) is 300 ~ 800rpm;
The condition of the homogenizing described in step (2) is 3000 ~ 5000rpm emulsifying, 3 ~ 5min;
The viscosity-average molecular weight of the carboxymethyl chitosan described in step (3) is 5 ~ 100,000, carboxylation degree > 60%;
The speed of the stirring described in step (3) is 200 ~ 600rpm;
The speed of the stirring described in step (4) is 200 ~ 600rpm;
Joining day described in step (4) is 20 ~ 40min;
The speed of the stirring described in step (5) is 300 ~ 800rpm;
Firming agent described in step (5) is at least one in many aldehyde sodium alginates, dialdehyde starch, vanillin, citral;
The time of the curing reaction described in step (5) is 1 ~ 3h;
Centrifugal condition described in step (6) is the centrifugal 20 ~ 30min of 3000 ~ 4000rpm/min;
Spray-dired temperature described in step (6) is 30 ~ 45 DEG C.
2. plant whitening preparation according to claim 1, is characterized in that: apply in skin-lightening cosmetic field.
3. a skin-lightening cosmetic, is characterized in that comprising following component by mass percentage:
The according to claim 1 plant whitening preparation of described skin-lightening cosmetic also containing mass percent 1.5 ~ 3.5%;
The antiseptic of described skin-lightening cosmetic also containing mass percent 0.1%;
Described skin-lightening cosmetic is except said components, and all the other are water; Or the mixture of essence and water.
4. the preparation method of skin-lightening cosmetic according to claim 3, comprises following steps:
I, according to above-mentioned mass percent by ceteareth-2, ceteareth-21, hexadecanol, 16/octadecanol, myristic acid cetylate, 15# white oil, vaseline, dimethicone, Miglyol 812, vitamin E, 2,6-di-t-butyl Pyrogentisinic Acid adds in oil phase reactor, heating makes material melting, stirs;
II, add in aqueous phase reactions still by disodiumedetate, card ripple 934, HANSHENGJIAO, triethanolamine, water, heating makes material dissolution, stirs;
III, oil phase is added in aqueous phase reactions still, emulsifying; After homogenizing, stirring at low speed, when temperature is down to 40 DEG C, adds antiseptic, essence, plant whitening preparation according to claim 1, namely obtains the cosmetics with white-skinned face function;
The speed of the stirring described in step I is 300 ~ 500rpm/min;
Fusion temperature described in step I is 75 ~ 85 DEG C;
The speed of the stirring described in Step II is 200 ~ 400rpm/min;
Solution temperature described in Step II is 80 ~ 85 DEG C;
The condition of the emulsifying described in Step II I is 3000 ~ 5000rpm/min emulsifying, 3 ~ 5min;
The speed of the stirring described in Step II I is 150 ~ 300rpm/min.
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CN105616174B (en) * 2016-01-28 2019-03-15 广州媛点生物科技有限公司 A kind of microballoon being enclosed with whitening active ingredients and its preparation method and a kind of Skin whitening care cosmetics
CN106619148A (en) * 2017-01-17 2017-05-10 上海应用技术大学 Water-soluble glabridin microcapsule and preparation method thereof
CN113262174A (en) * 2021-05-25 2021-08-17 广州暨创医美生物科技有限公司 Preparation method of gel balls wrapping functional ingredients of cosmetics, products prepared by gel balls and application of gel balls

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101564365A (en) * 2008-04-21 2009-10-28 曲奕 Plant essence high-efficacy concentrated whitening essence liquid
CN101961299A (en) * 2010-09-28 2011-02-02 清华大学 Chinese herbal medicinal gel cosmetic and preparation method thereof
CN102311892A (en) * 2010-06-29 2012-01-11 李正全 Natural plant whitening soap

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101564365A (en) * 2008-04-21 2009-10-28 曲奕 Plant essence high-efficacy concentrated whitening essence liquid
CN102311892A (en) * 2010-06-29 2012-01-11 李正全 Natural plant whitening soap
CN101961299A (en) * 2010-09-28 2011-02-02 清华大学 Chinese herbal medicinal gel cosmetic and preparation method thereof

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