CN102433652A - 仿真丝顺纡绉面料 - Google Patents
仿真丝顺纡绉面料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN102433652A CN102433652A CN2011102918546A CN201110291854A CN102433652A CN 102433652 A CN102433652 A CN 102433652A CN 2011102918546 A CN2011102918546 A CN 2011102918546A CN 201110291854 A CN201110291854 A CN 201110291854A CN 102433652 A CN102433652 A CN 102433652A
- Authority
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- China
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- silk
- weft
- raw yarn
- crepon
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 24
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 claims description 16
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- BESJRHHIPGWPTC-UHFFFAOYSA-N azane;copper Chemical compound 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N.[Cu] BESJRHHIPGWPTC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 abstract description 6
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- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 abstract 3
- QKSIFUGZHOUETI-UHFFFAOYSA-N copper;azane Chemical compound 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N.N.N.N.[Cu+2] QKSIFUGZHOUETI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 abstract 2
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 3
- 210000003491 Skin Anatomy 0.000 description 2
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种仿真丝顺纡绉面料，包括经纱和纬纱。经纱的原料纱线包括铜氨丝和涤纶半消光全拉伸丝。纬纱的原料纱线包括涤纶半消光全拉伸丝。仿真丝顺纡绉面料为三上二下二上一下变化纬重平组织，原料纱线在经向的排列顺序为1铜氨丝1涤纶半消光全拉伸丝。本发明的仿真丝顺纡绉面料富有光泽，具有真丝的悬垂飘逸和鲜艳色泽，并且吸湿透气性能佳，穿着舒适，成本低。
Description
仿真丝顺纡绉面料
技术领域
[0001] 本发明涉及纺织面料领域，特别是涉及一种仿真丝顺纡绉面料。 背景技术
[0002] 雪纺学名为乔其纱，质地轻薄透明，手感柔爽富有弹性，外观清淡雅洁，悬垂飘逸， 是一种很受欢迎的女装面料。雪纺可分为真丝雪纺和化纤雪纺。真丝雪纺织物轻薄，具有良好的透气性，穿著舒适。但是真丝难以打理，且价格不菲，仅限于制作中高档服装。化纤雪纺价格合理，花色丰富，但是其质感比真丝硬而且滑，不吸水，透气透湿性都不理想。
发明内容
[0003] 本发明主要解决的技术问题是提供一种仿真丝顺纡绉面料，具有真丝顺纡绉的外观和手感，且穿著舒适、贴肤，吸湿透气性能好，成本低廉。
[0004] 为解决上述技术问题，本发明采用的一个技术方案是：提供一种仿真丝顺纡绉面料，包括经纱和纬纱。经纱的原料纱线包括铜氨丝和涤纶半消光全拉伸丝。纬纱的原料纱线包括涤纶半消光全拉伸丝。仿真丝顺纡绉面料为三上二下二上一下变化纬重平组织，原料纱线在经向的排列顺序为1铜氨丝1涤纶半消光全拉伸丝。
[0005] 优选的是，经纱的原料纱线包括50D/36F铜氨丝和50D/36F涤纶半消光全拉伸丝， 纬纱的原料纱线包括70D/72F涤纶半消光全拉伸丝。
[0006] 本发明的仿真丝顺纡绉面料富有光泽，具有真丝的悬垂飘逸和鲜艳色泽，并且吸湿透气性能佳，穿着舒适，成本低。
附图说明
[0007] 图1是本发明仿真丝顺纡绉面料的组织图。 具体实施方式
[0008] 下面结合附图对本发明的较佳实施例进行详细阐述，以使本发明的优点和特征能更易于被本领域技术人员理解，从而对本发明的保护范围做出更为清楚明确的界定。
[0009] 本发明仿真丝顺纡绉面料包括三种原料纱线A、B、C。原料纱线A、B组成经纱，原料纱线C组成纬纱。其中，原料纱线A为50D/36F铜氨丝，原料纱线B为50D/36F涤纶半消光全拉伸丝，原料纱线C为70D/72F涤纶半消光全拉伸丝。原料纱线在经向的排列顺序为 1A1B。纬纱和经纱粗细交织，呈现纵向条纹。
[0010] 涤纶全拉伸丝是在纺丝过程中引入拉伸作用，可获得具有高取向度和中等结晶度的卷绕丝，为全拉伸丝。全拉伸丝面料手感顺滑柔软，富有光泽，是仿真丝面料常用的材料。涤纶全拉伸丝在仿丝过程中经过消光后处理，制得涤纶半消光全拉伸丝，这种丝的反光度较弱，比全光丝更接近真丝的外观。
[0011] 但是，仿真丝顺纡绉面料的难题在于寻找一种透气透湿的替代纤维。本发明采用铜氨丝与全拉伸丝交织，以此来增加面料的透气排汗性。铜氨丝是一种新型原料纤维，属于人造丝，是用上等的木浆、棉短绒浆粕为原料，溶解在铜络合盐溶液的铜氨溶液中制成纺丝溶液，经混和过滤和脱泡后纺丝，能迅速吸收水分，同时快速将水分挥发到空气中去，不会产生闷湿感，不易产生静电，是一种亲肤的环保纤维。
[0012] 请参阅图1，该仿真丝顺纡绉面料采用变化平纹组织，为三上二下二上一下变化纬重平组织。该组织图表示面料中经纬纱交织规律。图中纵列代表经纱，横行代表纬纱。■ 表示经浮点，即经纱浮在纬纱之上的点；□表示纬浮点，即纬纱浮在经纱之上的点。变化纬重平织物呈现突起的纵向条纹，经纱与纬纱粗细交织，更加凸显这些横向条纹，增强了面料的立体感。
[0013] 该仿真丝顺纡绉面料的经纬密度为200 x380根/10cm，面密度为180 g/m2，经纬丝排列比较疏松，富有较强的透气性。
[0014] 经线加捻3捻/厘米，纬丝加强捻30捻/厘米，再经蒸烘退捻的特殊整浆工艺。在喷水织造机上纺织，适应丝的高捻度，在前道经纬强捻的条件下，染整收缩后经纬丝扭曲， 布面绉感明显，成品有弹力，交织点牢固，不易松动、扒裂，布面留有透孔点，更加透湿、透气。
[0015] 综上所述，本发明仿真丝顺纡绉面料成本低，排汗透气，穿着舒适，悬垂飘逸，光泽自然，适用于中高档服装。
[0016] 以上所述仅为本发明的实施例，并非因此限制本发明的专利范围，凡是利用本发明说明书及附图内容所作的等效结构或等效流程变换，或直接或间接运用在其他相关的技术领域，均同理包括在本发明的专利保护范围内。
Claims (2)
1. 一种仿真丝顺纡绉面料，包括经纱和纬纱，其特征在于：所述经纱的原料纱线包括铜氨丝和涤纶半消光全拉伸丝，所述纬纱的原料纱线包括涤纶半消光全拉伸丝；所述仿真丝顺纡绉面料为三上二下二上一下变化纬重平组织，原料纱线在经向的排列顺序为1铜氨丝1涤纶半消光全拉伸丝。
2.根据权利要求1所述的仿真丝顺纡绉面料，其特征在于：所述经纱的原料纱线包括 50D/36F铜氨丝和50D/36F涤纶半消光全拉伸丝，所述纬纱的原料纱线包括70D/72F涤纶半消光全拉伸丝。
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| CN104164733A (zh) * | 2014-07-25 | 2014-11-26 | 长兴宇鑫纺织印染有限公司 | 一种新型涤纶色丁仿真丝面料的制造方法 |
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| CN102817140A (zh) * | 2012-07-23 | 2012-12-12 | 苏州迪盛织造整理有限公司 | 环保型细旦复合丝条纹变换交织布及其织造方法 |
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| CN111118698B (zh) * | 2019-12-29 | 2021-06-25 | 江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司 | 一种顺纡绉面料的制备方法 |
| CN113737355A (zh) * | 2021-10-11 | 2021-12-03 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | 纯棉色织米粒泡面料的生产工艺 |
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