CN102302417B - Comprehensive-effect sunscreen lotion containing oceanic biological active substances - Google Patents

Comprehensive-effect sunscreen lotion containing oceanic biological active substances Download PDF

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CN102302417B
CN102302417B CN 201110269085 CN201110269085A CN102302417B CN 102302417 B CN102302417 B CN 102302417B CN 201110269085 CN201110269085 CN 201110269085 CN 201110269085 A CN201110269085 A CN 201110269085A CN 102302417 B CN102302417 B CN 102302417B
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skin
peptide
polysaccharide
sunscreen
lotion
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CN102302417A (en
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陈智刚
孙恢礼
陈忻
陈华
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FOSHAN AAI COSMETIC HEALTH-CARE PRODUCT Co Ltd
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FOSHAN AAI COSMETIC HEALTH-CARE PRODUCT Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a comprehensive-effect sunscreen lotion containing oceanic biological active substances. The lotion contains seashells active peptides, oceanic collagen peptides and algal polysaccharides as main active ingredients, and also contains allantoin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, vitamin E acetate, ultraviolet A absorbent and ultraviolet B absorbent. The comprehensive-effect sunscreen lotion disclosed by the invention solves the problem that the sunscreen cosmetics in the prior art have irritation and phototoxicity to skin and poor air permeability, make skin oily, and easily block sweat pores; and the sunscreen lotion organically combines oceanic biological active substances and a sunscreen agent, so as to greatly improve the sunscreen capacity and safety of the sunscreen lotion while reducing the use amount of the sunscreen agent. The lotion has mild and comprehensive effects, not only can effectively block the damage of ultraviolet ray to skin and relieve skin inflammations due to sunscald, but also can keep skin moist, provide nutrients, promote skin regeneration, repair damaged skin and comprehensively improve the protection capability of skin. Meanwhile, the lotion has w/o (water-in-oil) type and o/w (oil-in-water) type, and is suitable for people of various skin types.

Description

A kind of full effect ultra light sun block lotion that contains the marine bioactivity material
Technical field
The invention belongs to cosmetic field, be specifically related to a kind of sun care preparations, relate in particular to a kind of full effect ultra light sun block lotion that contains the marine bioactivity material.
Background technology
Ultraviolet in the sunlight by its physiological effect be divided into UVC (short wave ultraviolet, 200nm-290nm), UVB (ultraviolet B radiation, 290nm-320nm) and UVA (long wave ultraviolet, 320nm-400nm).The UVC that behind ozone layer, arrives ground is very faint, and UVB only has part to be absorbed by ozone layer, and UVA is not absorbed fully.Therefore, ground ultraviolet mainly is made up of 10%UVB and 90%UVA.UVB is the strongest to the skin ability to function, can shine the corium surface, makes corium vasodilation be nucleic acid or protein denaturation in red and swollen shape, the epidermis cell, edema, vesicle, erythema, decortication, skin aging can occur after the permanent irradiation, even can cause skin carcinoma.The UVA penetration power is strong, can arrive the dermis of skin depths, and effect has accumulation property to skin, and permanent irradiation can cause that skin brownization, collagen fiber fracture, flexibility decrease, wrinkle produce, and increases the infringement of UVB to skin.This shows that UVB and UVA should be the main objects of protectiving ultraviolet injury.
Raising along with The development in society and economy, living standards of the people; And environmental pollution and atmosphere are destroyed the aggravation of degree; People's sun-proof consciousness is more and more stronger; The kind of sun care preparations also emerges in an endless stream, and sign has all band ultra light sun block lotion of high spf value and PFA value to receive consumers in general's favor especially.But; The cosmetics SPF is high more, and its sunscreen concentration is just big more, and because between the sunscreen, have mutual sensitization between sunscreen and solvent and the substrate; Therefore product uses the probability of back skin allergy also big more, and sense of discomfort and insecurity also can correspondingly increase.In 28 kinds of sunscreen that China's " cosmetics health standard " (version in 2007) allows to use; The organic sunscreen agent has 26 kinds, and wherein major part can only absorb the ultraviolet of UVB scope, and sun-proof interval is more single; And light stability is poor, it is oxidized rotten to be prone to; Skin is also had zest, and a large amount of or life-time service also can make skin form and rely on, and is prone to cause Skin Cell and structural failure.And TiO 2Though can protect UVA with ZnO, if consumption is excessive, then adsorptivity, the transparency and breathability are relatively poor, also skin are had photocatalytic and zest, are prone to stop up pore.
Compare with these sunscreen; Marine bioactivity material light stability is better relatively, and to human non-toxic, non-stimulated, no sensitization, its effect is also gentle, efficient; Not only be prone to by skin absorbs and nutrition is provided; And each wave band of ultraviolet all more or less had absorption, in sun-proof, can also reduce pigmentation, keep skin moisturizing, delaying decrepitude of skin, have in addition can also treat solar dermatitis, dispelling stain.At present, though collagen peptide, Sargassum polysaccharides, Margarita powder, oligonucleotide, chondroitin sulfate, carotenoid etc. have been developed to all kinds of cosmetics, are used for sun-proof function cosmetics and still belong to blank.In addition; Seashells as one of most precious living marine resources; Its bioactive peptide also has effects such as significant delaying decrepitude of skin, radioprotective, promotion wound healing, promotion collagen protein synthesis; Though existing at present patent discloses the seashells anti-oxidation peptide and can be used for cosmetics, do not relate to actual technique for applying technology and prescription, its application in sun care preparations does not relate to as yet yet.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is to existing sun care preparations to skin have than strong and stimulating and phototoxicity, a large amount of use skin is produced rely on, the skin sense is greasy, breathability is poor, be prone to problems such as obstruction pore, and a kind of safer, gentle full effect ultra light sun block lotion that contains the marine bioactivity material is provided.The present invention utilizes the forward synergism of marine bioactivity material and sunscreen; When reducing the sunscreen consumption, significantly improved it to the Ultraviolet rays protection ability, improve properties of product; And the raising safety, effectively avoided the generation of cosmetics to untoward reaction such as skin photosensitization property.This sunscreen functional component is clear and definite, steady quality, w/o type and O/W type are arranged, and is applicable to all kinds of skin matter crowds.
Another object of the present invention is to problems such as existing sun care preparations function singlenesses; A kind of comprehensive effects ultra light sun block lotion is provided; This emulsion effectively ultraviolet blocking-up to the infringement of skin, alleviate the scytitis that causes because of sunburn; Can also keep skin wet, required nutrient is provided; And promote tissue regeneration, repair damaged skin, improve skin self to the Ultraviolet rays protection ability comprehensively, have and preserve moisture, nutrition, multi-efficiency such as whiten, repair behind sun-proof, the amelioration of inflammation, solarization.
The full effect ultra light sun block lotion main active that composition the present invention contains the marine bioactivity material is seashells bioactive peptide, marine collagen protein peptide and Sargassum polysaccharides; Its weight content in emulsion is seashells bioactive peptide 0.1%-10%, marine collagen protein peptide 0.1%-10%, Sargassum polysaccharides 0.05%-5%, and its preferred weight content is seashells bioactive peptide 0.5%-6%, marine collagen protein peptide 0.5%-6%, Sargassum polysaccharides 0.1%-1%.Effect such as repair after, amelioration of inflammation sun-proof, the solarization, form full effect ultra light sun block lotion active component of the present invention and also comprise allantoin, V for strengthening CMagnesium phosphorate and V EAcetate, its weight content in emulsion is respectively allantoin 0.05%-0.6%, V CMagnesium phosphorate 0.1%-5%, V EAcetate 0.1%-5%.
In the above-mentioned active component, described seashells bioactive peptide is meant the seashells bioactive peptide mixture that makes after ocean shellfish meat is through protease hydrolyzed, the ultrafiltration of 3000Da ultrafilter membrane; Said seashells is meant one or more the combination in Paphia Undulata, Corbiculida, Margarita, scallop, mussel, the Concha Ostreae; Said protease is one or more the combination in bromelain, papain, neutral protease, alkaline protease, pepsin, trypsin, the subtilisin.Specifically the method for preparing of seashells bioactive peptide is following: get the edible seashells that meets China's relevant marine product use standard, add 2-4 times of volume pure water homogenate 3-5min behind the internal organs that shell, room temperature adds protease; Enzyme concentration is a 1000-3000U/g shellfish meat; At pH is 6.5-7.5, and temperature is 40-60 ℃, enzymolysis 30-90min; Boiling water bath enzyme denaturing 5-8min; The centrifugal 10-15min of 5000-8000r/m, supernatant is the ultrafiltration of 3000Da ultrafilter membrane through molecular cut off, lyophilization makes the seashells active peptide powder.
In the above-mentioned active component, described marine collagen protein peptide is meant cod collagen peptide, sharkskin collagen peptide, holothurian collagen peptide or collagen from squid skin peptide, can prepare according to methods such as existing protease hydrolyzeds, and is also commercially available.Described Sargassum polysaccharides is meant one or more the combination in sodium alginate, Porphyra Polysaccharide, Sargassum polysaccharide, Thallus Laminariae polysaccharide, sargassan, Herba Lysimachiae Clethroids (Radix Seu Herba Lysimachiae Clethroidis) polysaccharide, Eucheuma gelatinosum polysaccharide, Eucheuma striatum polysaccharide, Hijiki polysaccharide, the spirulina polysaccharide; Commercially available, also can be according to existing method preparation.Described allantoin, V CMagnesium phosphorate, V EAcetate is commercial.
The sunscreen of imitating entirely in the ultra light sun block lotion in the present invention is meant UVA protective agent and UVB absorbent.Described UVA protective agent is preferably one or both the combination in di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide-BTA base tetramethyl butyl phenol, benzophenone-3, the own oxy phenol anisyl of two-ethyl triazine, the PAROSOL 1789, and it is respectively di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide-BTA base tetramethyl butyl phenol 0.1%-3.5%, benzophenone-3 0.1%-4%, the own oxy phenol anisyl of two-ethyl triazine 0.2%-4.5%, PAROSOL 1789 0.1%-2.5% at full weight content of imitating in the ultra light sun block lotion.Described UVB protective agent is preferably Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate, 4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora, ethylhexyl salicylate, TiO 2In one or more combination, it is respectively Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 0.1%-3%, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 0.02%-8%, 4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora 0.1%-3%, ethylhexyl salicylate 0.1%-3%, TiO at full weight content of imitating in the ultra light sun block lotion 20.5%-6%.
Above-mentioned UVA protective agent, UVB protective agent and cosmetic base are commercial.
Above-mentioned effective ingredient carries out homogenizing through common process with the cosmetic base component or mixes, and promptly can be made into w/o type or O/W type emulsion.Through zoopery and human body experiment on probation, find full effect ultra light sun block lotion safety of the present invention, gentleness, the infringement of ultraviolet to skin can effectively prevented and reduce to the non-stimulated or photosensitization property to skin, and improve the self-protection ability of skin comprehensively.
Solution of the present invention be based on the inventor to ultraviolet characteristic, skin by the light stability of the mechanism of action of ultraviolet injury, Ultraviolet rays protection method, sunscreen with to the sensitization of skin; And to the understanding of the beauty and skin care effect of marine bioactivity material; In conjunction with modern sun care preparations and pharmacological research achievement; From numerous marine bioactivity extracts, filter out and have remarkable maintenance skin wet, opposing ultraviolet injury, diminish inflammation, reduce the raw material that melanin formed, repaired effect such as sunburn skin; Carry out scientific composition with sunscreen, make its give full play to sun-proof, diminish inflammation, shine multi-efficiency such as back reparation etc.:
Little, the good water solubility of seashells bioactive peptide molecular weight in the full effect ultra light sun block lotion of the present invention can be infiltrated skin surface rapidly and protected skin to avoid ultraviolet injury, promotion damaged skin wound healing.It can also significantly reduce tyrosinase activity, suppress melanin formation, and promotes the pigmentation cell metabolism, makes mottle and black speck disappear fast, reduce and eliminate tanned, sunburn vestige.In seashells bioactive peptide mixture, also contain abundant free amino acid, vitamin and trace element isoreactivity material, can assist to keep skin wet, nutrition is provided, and can significantly improve skin natural cover for defense function and the ultraviolet ability of opposing.
The marine collagen protein peptide can be alleviated the general red and pain that skin causes because of ultraviolet radiation, and untoward reaction such as ability prevention of inflammation, blister, erythema and decortication take place, and can also promote fibroblast and hyaluronic acid to generate, repair damaged skin, keep elasticity.
Sargassum polysaccharides can significantly keep skin wet, absorption portion ultraviolet, can also promote SF growth, can significantly improve its protective capacities to UVA and UVB with sunscreen after collaborative composite.
Allantoin can effectively be eliminated ultraviolet and cause that scytitis, alleviation sunscreen come off to skin irritation and photosensitization, soften cuticle albumen, promotion deposition pigment dead bark, disappear mottle and tanned vestige fast.
V CAfter magnesium phosphorate infiltrates skin, the V that is dissociated and by the phosphate enzymolysis CReducible UV-induced melanin, stimulation collagen generate, repair damaged skin, can also significantly improve chemical stability, effectiveness and the sun-proof property of ultra light sun block lotion.
V EAcetate is discharged free V by the lipase enzymolysis after infiltrating skin EBe polyphenoils and membrane stabilizer important in the cell membrane, can protect skin to avoid UVB and destroy, reduce melanin inducing cell quantity, reduce inflammation infiltration and edema generation, can also effectively improve the stability and the light-protection of antioxidation prescription in the ultra light sun block lotion.With V CMagnesium phosphorate and V EThe acetate coupling can play a protective role in wideer ultraviolet range, and the vitamin level that makes skin is not because of UVB irradiation loss.
Di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide-BTA base tetramethyl butyl phenol, benzophenone-3, the own oxy phenol anisyl of two-ethyl triazine, PAROSOL 1789 can absorb the ultraviolet in UVA zone, can improve the PFA value of ultra light sun block lotion.
Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate, 4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora, ethylhexyl salicylate can absorb the ultraviolet in UVB zone, can improve the spf value of ultra light sun block lotion.
TiO 2But usable reflection and scatters ultraviolet reduce itself and contact skin, can improve ultra light sun block lotion spf value and PFA value.
Compared with prior art, the present invention has following beneficial effect:
1. the full ultra light sun block lotion of imitating selects for use the marine organism extract of pure natural and sunscreen collaborative composite among the present invention, with skin the better compatibility is arranged, can be rapidly by skin absorbs, and safe, gentle, do not cause reactions such as stimulations, allergy, skin does not have to bear yet.
2. the marine bioactivity extract ability absorption portion ultraviolet in the ultra light sun block lotion is imitated in the present invention entirely, and improves the self-protection ability of skin comprehensively.After reducing the use amount of sunscreen, not only do not weaken it to the Ultraviolet rays protection ability, its properties of product and safety are significantly improved, and prevented because of untoward reaction generations such as the inflammation of using a large amount of sunscreen to cause, stimulations.
3. the full effect ultra light sun block lotion among the present invention can not only effectively absorb, shield UVA and thereby UVB reduces its damage to skin; Keep skin wet, reduce melanin deposition, eliminate sun damage, diminish inflammation, alleviate stimulation and the photosensitization of sunscreen skin; Can also promote the damaged skin reparation, mottle and tanned vestige are disappeared fast; Improve the natural cover for defense function of skin comprehensively, have sun-proof, whiten, preserve moisture, nutrition, antiinflammatory, releive, multi-efficiency such as reparation.
4. the present invention preferably arrives several kinds of good light stability,, water solublity, oil-soluble UVA protective agent and UVB protective agent that synergism good little to skin irritation, and the quality of the emulsion that preparation obtains is reliable, effect is remarkable.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 tests the guinea pig skin phototoxicity for cosmetics of the present invention;
Fig. 2 is the protective capacities of testing in vitro cosmetics of the present invention to UVB;
Fig. 3 is the protective capacities of testing in vitro cosmetics of the present invention to UVA;
Fig. 4 is ultraviolet injury mouse ear assessment of indices result;
Fig. 5 is ultraviolet injury mice skin assessment of indices result;
Fig. 6 is that ultraviolet injury mouse skin epidermal thickness is measured the result;
Fig. 7 is that ultraviolet injury mice dermal fibroblast is measured the result.
The specific embodiment
Following examples are to further specify of the present invention, are not limitations of the present invention.
Embodiment 1
Get and meet the edible Paphia Undulata that China marine product uses standard, add 2 times of volume pure water homogenate 4min behind the internal organs that shell, boil 5min, add papain after being cooled to room temperature; Enzyme concentration is a 1000U/g shellfish meat, and behind the 170w ultrasonic Treatment 8min, pH is 7 under the room temperature; Temperature is 50 ℃, enzymolysis 60min, boiling water bath enzyme denaturing 6min; The centrifugal 15min of 8000r/m, supernatant is the ultrafiltration of 3000Da ultrafilter membrane through molecular cut off, makes the Paphia Undulata active peptide powder after the lyophilization.
Composition and the weight content thereof of forming marine organisms function cosmetics of the present invention are:
A phase: micron order diamond-type oiliness TiO 2Dispersion liquid 10% (contains TiO 21%), ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 2%, benzophenone-3 4%, fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether 3%, C 12-C 15Alkyl benzoate 9%, dicaprylyl carbonate 2%, microwax 0.8%, azone/PEG40 castor oil hydrogenated 0.2%, HANSHENGJIAO 0.5%, V EAcetate 1%.
B phase: NaCl0.8%, 1,3 butylene glycol 5%, propylene glycol 4%, EDTA-2Na0.1%, deionized water 46.3%, Paphia Undulata bioactive peptide 6%, cod collagen peptide 3%, sodium alginate 1%, allantoin 0.1%, V CMagnesium phosphorate 0.5%.
C phase: butoben 0.5%, green tea essence 0.2%.
Respectively mixing A phase, B mutually and be heated to 80-85 ℃, with B be added to A mutually in homogenizing 10min.After being cooled to 40 ℃, add the C phase component, mixing makes w/o type and imitates ultra light sun block lotion entirely.
Embodiment 2
Get the edible Corbiculida and shell and add 2.5 times of volume pure water homogenate 5min behind the internal organs, boil 10min, add bromelain and subtilisin (1:1) after being cooled to room temperature; Enzyme concentration is a 2000U/g shellfish meat, is 6.5 at pH, and temperature is 40 ℃; Enzymolysis 30min, boiling water bath enzyme denaturing 7min, the centrifugal 12min of 6000r/m; Supernatant is the ultrafiltration of 3000Da ultrafilter membrane through molecular cut off, makes the Corbiculida active peptide powder after the lyophilization.
A phase: caprylic/capric triglyceride 3%, Parleam 3%, ethylhexyl palmitate 3%, polydimethylsiloxane 2%, fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether 1%, benzophenone-3 0.1%, PAROSOL 1789 0.1%, ethylhexyl salicylate 3%, V EAcetate 5%.
B phase: glycerol 5%, propylene glycol 3%, deionized water 63.2%, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 0.3%, ceteareth-2 1.2%, ceteareth-21 1.5%, acrylic ester/C 10-C 30Alkyl acrylate polymer 0.1%.
C phase: Corbiculida peptide 2 %, cod collagen peptide 0.1%, Eucheuma striatum polysaccharide 0.2%, Hijiki polysaccharide 0.3%, allantoin 0.6%, V CMagnesium phosphorate 2%.
D phase: triethanolamine 0.1%, essence 0.1%, butoben 0.1%.
Technical process: heat respectively A mutually with B to 80 ℃, stir time slowly with A be added to B mutually in.Stirring is cooled to 60 ℃, C is added in the mixture of A, B phase, mixes 10min.When cooling off 45 ℃, add the D phase, mixing makes the O/W type and imitates ultra light sun block lotion entirely.
Embodiment 3
Get edible Margarita, scallop (1:1) and shell and add 3 times of volume pure water homogenate 3min behind the internal organs, add neutral protease and pepsin (1:1), enzyme concentration is a 3000U/g shellfish meat; At pH is 7.5, and temperature is 60 ℃, enzymolysis 60min; Boiling water bath enzyme denaturing 8min; The centrifugal 10min of 7000r/m, supernatant are that the ultrafilter membrane of 3000Da carries out ultrafiltration through molecular cut off, make Margarita and scallop active peptide powder after the lyophilization.
Composition and the weight content thereof of forming marine organisms function cosmetics of the present invention are:
A phase: the own oxy phenol anisyl of two-ethyl triazine 0.2%, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 8%, 4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora 0.1%, ethylhexyl salicylate 0.1%, TiO 2/ hydration Silicon stone/aluminium hydroxide/dimethyl siloxane/methylsiloxane copolymer 0.5%, C 22Alcohol ether-25 3%, C 12-C 15Alkyl benzoate 3%, polydimethylsiloxane 2%, ethylhexyl palmitate 3%, Glucate SS 0.5%, V EAcetate 0.5%, α-bisabolol 0.3%.
B phase: deionized water 50.6%, glycerol 3%, propylene glycol 3%, EDTA-2Na0.2%, PEG-20 methyl glucoside sesqui-stearate 0.5%, di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide-BTA base tetramethyl butyl phenol 0.1%, HANSHENGJIAO 0.4%.
C phase: active pearl shell peptide 0.2%, scallop active peptide 0.3%, collagen from squid skin peptide 10%, sargassan 1%, Herba Lysimachiae Clethroids (Radix Seu Herba Lysimachiae Clethroidis) polysaccharide 2%, Eucheuma gelatinosum polysaccharide 2%, allantoin 0.3%, V CMagnesium phosphorate 5%.
D phase: essence 0.1%, butoben 0.1%.
Technical process: heat respectively A mutually with B to 80 ℃, under the stirring condition slowly with A be added to B mutually in, homogenizing 10min.Add the C phase after being cooled to 60 ℃, stir.Add the D phase in the time of 45 ℃, mixing makes the O/W type and imitates ultra light sun block lotion entirely.
Embodiment 4
Get and meet the edible mussel that the relevant marine product of China uses standard, add 4 times of volume pure water homogenate 4min behind the internal organs that shell, add trypsin and alkaline protease (1:2) after being cooled to room temperature; Enzyme concentration is a 3000U/g shellfish meat; PH is 7, temperature is 50 ℃ of enzymolysis 90min, boiling water bath enzyme denaturing 5min, the centrifugal 15min of 5000r/m; Supernatant is the ultrafiltration of 3000Da ultrafilter membrane through molecular cut off, makes mussel active peptide powder after the lyophilization.
Composition and the weight content thereof of forming marine organisms function cosmetics of the present invention are:
A phase: the own oxy phenol anisyl of two-ethyl triazine 4.5%, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 0.02%, TiO 2/ aluminium hydroxide/dimethyl siloxane/methylsiloxane copolymer 6%, cetyl polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-10/ dimethyl silscone 3%, caprylic/capric triglyceride 5%, C 12-C 15Benzoate 9%, polydimethylsiloxane 3%, octyl palmitate 4%, microwax 0.5%, V EAcetate 2%, magnesium stearate 0.3%.
B phase: NaCl0.8%, EDTA-2Na0.1%, glycerol 3%, deionized water 43.23%, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 3%, mussel active peptide 10%, holothurian collagen peptide 0.5%, Porphyra Polysaccharide 0.1%, allantoin 0.05%, V CMagnesium phosphorate 1%, PEG-40 castor oil hydrogenated 0.5%.
C phase: essence 0.3%, butoben 0.1%.
Technical process: respectively Hybrid Heating A phase, B to 80 ℃, under the stirring condition slowly with B be added to A mutually in, homogenizing 10min.After being cooled to 45 ℃, add the C phase, stirring makes w/o type and imitates ultra light sun block lotion entirely.
Embodiment 5
According to preparation seashells bioactive peptide method in the embodiment 1, enzymolysis makes oyster active peptides powder, active pearl shell peptide powder.
Composition and the weight content thereof of forming marine organisms function cosmetics of the present invention are:
A phase: PAROSOL 1789 2.5%, 4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora 3%, polyglycereol-3 diisopstearate 3%, polydimethylsiloxane 7%, polyvinylpyrrolidone/eicosylene copolymer 1 %, C 12-C 15Alkyl benzoate 7%, V EAcetate 0.1%.
B phase: deionized water 66%, EDTA-2Na0.2%, oyster active peptides 0.05%, active pearl shell peptide 0.05%, sharkskin collagen peptide 6%, spirulina polysaccharide 0.4%, allantoin 0.2%, V CMagnesium phosphorate 0.1%, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 0.1%, PEG-40 castor oil hydrogenated 1%.
C phase: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/lauryl alcohol-7 2%.
D phase: essence 0.2%, butoben 0.1%.
Technical process: respectively Hybrid Heating A phase, B to 80 ℃, under the stirring condition slowly with A be added to B mutually in, homogenizing 10min.Be cooled to 60 ℃ and add the C phase.Be cooled to 40 ℃ and add the D phase, mixing makes the O/W type and imitates ultra light sun block lotion entirely.
Embodiment 6
According to the method for preparing the seashells bioactive peptide in the embodiment 2, enzymolysis makes active pearl shell peptide powder.
Composition and the weight content thereof of forming marine organisms function cosmetics of the present invention are:
A phase: 4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora 0.5%, fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether 3%, C 12-C 15Benzoate 9%, dicaprylyl carbonate 2%, microwax 0.8%, hydrolyzed silk protein/PG-propyl group methyl dihydroxy siloxanes cross-polymer 0.5%, V EAcetate 0.7%.
B phase: deionized water 64.85%, 1,3 butylene glycol 5%, propylene glycol 4%, EDTA-2Na0.1%, di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide-BTA base tetramethyl butyl phenol 3.5%, PEG-40 castor oil hydrogenated 0.2%, NaCl0.8%.
C phase: active pearl shell peptide 3%, sharkskin collagen peptide 1%, Sargassum polysaccharide 0.02%, Thallus Laminariae polysaccharide 0.03%, allantoin 0.4%, V CMagnesium phosphorate 0.3%.
D phase: essence 0.2%, butoben 0.1%.
Technical process: respectively Hybrid Heating A phase, B to 80 ℃, under the stirring condition with A be added to B mutually in, homogenizing 10min.Add the C phase when being cooled to 60 ℃.Add the D phase after being cooled to 40 ℃, mixing makes the O/W type and imitates ultra light sun block lotion entirely.
Embodiment 7
The full effect ultra light sun block lotion of embodiment 1-6 preparation is carried out the evaluation of skin phototoxicity.
Tested object be sample 1 (A, a), sample 2 (B, b), sample 3 (C, c), sample 4 (D, d), sample 5 (E, e), sample 6 (F, f).Sample A-F is the full effect ultra light sun block lotion of embodiment 1-6 preparation successively; And being the control samples of sample A-F successively, sample a-f (all do not contain the marine bioactivity material among the sample a-f; And the composition of sunscreen, content are identical with composition, the content of sunscreen among the sample a-f respectively among the sample A-F), concrete composition is following:
A: Paphia Undulata bioactive peptide 6%, cod collagen peptide 3%, sodium alginate 1%, deionized water 46.3%, other component be totally 43.7% (seeing embodiment 1).
A: deionized water 56.3%, other component be totally 43.7% (identical with A).
B: Corbiculida peptide 2 %, cod collagen peptide 0.1%, Eucheuma striatum polysaccharide 0.2%, Hijiki polysaccharide 0.3%, deionized water 63.2%, other component be totally 34.2% (seeing embodiment 2).
B: deionized water 65.8%, other component be totally 34.2% (identical with B).
C: active pearl shell peptide 0.2%, scallop active peptide 0.3%, collagen from squid skin peptide 10%, sargassan 1%, Herba Lysimachiae Clethroids (Radix Seu Herba Lysimachiae Clethroidis) polysaccharide 2%, Eucheuma gelatinosum polysaccharide 2%, deionized water 50.6%, other component be totally 33.9% (seeing embodiment 3).
C: deionized water 66.1%, other component be totally 33.9% (identical with C).
D: mussel active peptide 10%, holothurian collagen peptide 0.5%, Porphyra Polysaccharide 0.1%, deionized water 43.23%, other component be totally 46.17% (seeing embodiment 4).
D: deionized water 53.83%, other component be totally 46.17% (identical with D).
E: oyster active peptides 0.05%, active pearl shell peptide 0.05%, sharkskin collagen peptide 6%, spirulina polysaccharide 0.4%, deionized water 66%, other component be totally 27.5% (seeing embodiment 5).
E: deionized water 72.5%, other component be totally 27.5% (identical with E).
F: active pearl shell peptide 3%, sharkskin collagen peptide 1%, Sargassum polysaccharide 0.02%, Thallus Laminariae polysaccharide 0.03%, deionized water 64.85%, other component be totally 31.1% (seeing embodiment 6).
F: deionized water 68.9%, other component be totally 31.1% (identical with F).
Get 48 of Cavia porcelluss, be divided into 12 groups at random, promptly sample 1 (A, a), sample 2 (B, b), sample 3 (C, c), sample 4 (D, d), sample 5 (E, e), sample 6 (F, f), 4 every group.Carry out the preceding 18-24h of phototoxicity experiment, use 8%Na after Cavia porcellus spinal column diamond wool is cut short 2The S depilation.Prepare 4 QUMAO districts, every QUMAO area is about 2cm * 2cm.Cavia porcellus is fixed, apply the 0.25ml sample in QUMAO district 1 and 3, specimen in use concentration can not cause the skin irritation reaction.Behind 30 min, QUMAO district 3 and 4 usefulness canvas cover, and adhesive tape is fixed, and QUMAO district 1 and 2 usefulness ultraviolet shine, and radiation source is the UVA of wavelength 320nm-400 nm, and dosage is 10000mJ/cm.According to the time of penetrating (s)=exposure dose (10000mJ)/light intensity (mJ/s), calculate the irradiation time of every Cavia porcellus.1h, 24h, 48h, 72 h observe dermoreaction after the end of radiation, judge every guinea pig skin phototoxic reaction scoring according to table 1.Evaluation criterion is to be coated with merely to be tried thing and dermoreaction do not occur without irradiation area; Tried thing after dermoreaction score value sum >=2 number of animals appear in the zone of irradiation is that 1 or 1 are when above and be coated with; Be judged to and tried thing and have phototoxicity, the skin irritation reaction total mark value of the guinea pig skin phototoxicity experiment that records is as shown in Figure 1.
Table 1 skin irritation reaction scoring
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE001
Be coated with behind the sample A-F1h, erythema appears in QUMAO district 2, and erythema does not all appear in other zone; Behind the 24h, QUMAO district 2 erythema disappear, and irritations such as red swelling of the skin, hyperemia all do not appear in other zone; Behind 48h, the 72h, notable difference is not all seen in each zone, does not all have erythema, edema etc.Be coated with behind the sample a-f1h, QUMAO district 1 is coated with the sample irradiation district and erythema, edema occur, and erythema does not all appear in other zone; Behind 24h, 48h, the 72h, QUMAO district 1 edema slowly disappears, but erythema does not obviously disappear.
Experimental result shows that the ultra light sun block lotion that does not add the marine bioactivity material has the moderate heliosensitivity to skin, and the full effect ultra light sun block lotion that contains the marine bioactivity material does not have phototoxicity to skin.This also explains marine bioactivity material safety, gentleness, and can effectively alleviate stimulation and the photosensitization of sunscreen to skin.
Embodiment 8
The full effect ultra light sun block lotion of embodiment 1-6 preparation is carried out sun-proof merit rating.
Tested object be sample 1 (A, a), sample 2 (B, b), sample 3 (C, c), sample 4 (D, d), sample 5 (E, e), sample 6 (F, f).Sample A-F is the full effect ultra light sun block lotion of embodiment 1-6 preparation successively; And being the control samples of sample A-F successively, sample a-f (all do not contain the marine bioactivity material among the sample a-f; And the marine bioactivity material equates with the total content of sunscreen among the sample a-f respectively with the total content of sunscreen among the sample A-F), concrete composition is following:
A: Paphia Undulata bioactive peptide 6%, cod collagen peptide 3%, sodium alginate 1%, benzophenone-3 4%, micron order diamond-type oiliness TiO 2Dispersion liquid 10% (contains TiO 21%), ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 2%, other component totally 74% (seeing embodiment 1).
A: benzophenone-3 5%, micron order diamond-type oiliness TiO 2Dispersion liquid 15% (contains TiO 21.5%), ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 6%, other component totally 74% (identical with A).
B: Corbiculida peptide 2 %, cod collagen peptide 0.1%, Eucheuma striatum polysaccharide 0.2%, Hijiki polysaccharide 0.3%, benzophenone-3 0.1%, PAROSOL 1789 0.1%, ethylhexyl salicylate 3%, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 0.3%, other component be totally 93.9% (seeing embodiment 2).
B: benzophenone-3 1%, PAROSOL 1789 1%, ethylhexyl salicylate 3%, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 1.1%, other component be totally 93.9% (identical with B).
C: active pearl shell peptide 0.2%, scallop active peptide 0.3%, collagen from squid skin peptide 10%, sargassan 1%, Herba Lysimachiae Clethroids (Radix Seu Herba Lysimachiae Clethroidis) polysaccharide 2%, Eucheuma gelatinosum polysaccharide 2%, the own oxy phenol anisyl of two-ethyl triazine 0.2%, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 8%, ethylhexyl salicylate 0.1%, 4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora 0.1%, TiO 2/ hydration Silicon stone/aluminium hydroxide/dimethyl siloxane/methylsiloxane copolymer 0.5%, di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide-BTA base tetramethyl butyl phenol 0.1%, other component be totally 75.5% (seeing embodiment 3).
C: the own oxy phenol anisyl of two-ethyl triazine 5%, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 9%, ethylhexyl salicylate 1%, 4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora 4%, TiO 2/ hydration Silicon stone/aluminium hydroxide/dimethyl siloxane/methylsiloxane copolymer 2%, di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide-BTA base tetramethyl butyl phenol 3.5%, other component be totally 75.5% (identical with C).
D: mussel active peptide 10%, holothurian collagen peptide 0.5%, Porphyra Polysaccharide 0.1%, the own oxy phenol anisyl of two-ethyl triazine 4.5%, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 0.02%, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 3%, TiO 2/ aluminium hydroxide/dimethyl siloxane/methylsiloxane copolymer 6%, other component be totally 75.88% (seeing embodiment 4).
D: the own oxy phenol anisyl of two-ethyl triazin-6 %, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 8%, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 4.12%, TiO 2/ aluminium hydroxide/dimethyl siloxane/methylsiloxane copolymer 6%, other component be totally 75.88% (identical with D).
E: oyster active peptides 0.05%, active pearl shell peptide 0.05%, sharkskin collagen peptide 6%, spirulina polysaccharide 0.4%, PAROSOL 1789 2.5%, 4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora 3%, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 0.1%, other component is totally 87.9% (seeing embodiment 5).
E: PAROSOL 1789 3.5%, 4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora 4%, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 4.6%, other component is totally 87.9% (identical with E).
F: active pearl shell peptide 3%, sharkskin collagen peptide 1%, Sargassum polysaccharide 0.02%, Thallus Laminariae polysaccharide 0.03%, 4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora 0.5%, di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide-BTA base tetramethyl butyl phenol 3.5%, other component is totally 91.95% (seeing embodiment 6).
F:4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora 3.05%, di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide-BTA base tetramethyl butyl phenol 5%, other component is totally 91.95% (identical with F).
Measure Transpore earlier with SPF-290 type SPF analyser as carrier RThe background curve of 1527-3 type blank film is used sample applicator on the hyaline membrane of 8.11cm * 7.82cm, evenly to put then and is added sample, smears with the finger that has the latex finger-stall, and the sample that makes the film surface is with 2mL/cm 2Distribute.It is natural drying 20min in 60% the environment that sample panel after smearing is placed on 20 ℃, humidity, with analyser 6 tests of picked at random on hyaline membrane, measures the result by supporting software analysis, calculates spf value, and records the UVA protecting factor.The sample A-F that records, the spf value of sample a-f and PFA value are shown in Fig. 2-3.
Experimental result shows that the spf value of sample A-F and PFA value are obviously high than sample a-f, and marine bioactivity material and sunscreen among this explanation the present invention have significant forward synergism.Full effect ultra light sun block lotion of the present invention does not only weaken its sun-proof ability when reducing the sunscreen use amount, its protective capacities to UVB and UVA is significantly improved.
Embodiment 9
The full effect ultra light sun block lotion of embodiment 1-6 preparation is carried out the test of mice opposing ultraviolet injury ability.
Tested object is identical with embodiment 8, be respectively sample 1 (A, a), sample 2 (B, b), sample 3 (C, c), sample 4 (D, d), sample 5 (E, e), sample 6 (F, f).
Get 60 of quality (20 ± 2) g Kunming healthy mices, use 8%Na 2S sloughs the back by hair, exposed area 4cm * 3cm.The 4d that loses hair or feathers, with mice be divided at random sample 1 (A, a), sample 2 (B, b), sample 3 (C, c), sample 4 (D, d), sample 5 (E, e), sample 6 (F, f), totally 12 groups, 5 every group.Mice is prophylactically smeared sample, and 0.6mL is given at every back, and every monaural is given 0.3mL, 2 times/d, smears 4d altogether.Mice is horizontally fixed on the brandreth and places apart from uviol lamp vertical dimension 10cm place irradiation 6h, cause the skin lesion mouse model.With mouse skin keratinization and decortication degree is evaluation index, perusal mouse back skin situation of change, and analytic sample is to the protective effect of mouse anti ultraviolet injury.
The skin lesion mouse model is continued to put to death with disconnected ridge behind the ultraviolet radiation 40h; Weighing mice quality; Get the circular auricle and the skin graft of two ears and back 9mm diameter more respectively; Accurately its quality of weighing is calculated ear index (ear index=auricle quality/mice quality) and skin index (skin index=skin graft quality/mice quality), and analytic sample is shot the inhibitory action of mice edema wounded to ultraviolet.Get back portion skin with 10% formaldehyde fixed 24h after, make the sealing sample.The sealing sample is placed observation skin configuration under 10 times of mirrors; Observed skin begins to clap first pictures topmost from the visual field under 40 times of mirrors again, whenever moves scale 2mm bat afterwards and gets one, claps to get after 5 and chooses 5 points on every pictures with the micro image analysis system; Measure its epidermal thickness; Every pictures is measured 25 points altogether, and averaging is designated as epidermal thickness, and analytic sample is to the cornified inhibitory action of mouse skin.Every pictures is got 6 visuals field, counts fibroblast number in each visual field, averages to be designated as each visual field dermal fibroblast number.Ultraviolet injury mouse ear index, skin index, epidermal thickness and fibroblast are measured the result and see Fig. 4-7.
Mice by ultraviolet radiation after, be coated with mouse ear index with sample A-F, skin index, epidermal thickness value all than being coated with low with sample a-f, fibroblastic number is than being coated with many with sample a-f in its dermal tissue.Experimental result shows; Containing the damage epidermis that the full effect ultra light sun block lotion of marine bioactivity material can effectively suppress to be caused by ultraviolet radiation thickens, suppresses the epidermis keratinization, reduces inflammation and take place, induce fibroblast to generate; When protection skin is avoided ultraviolet injury; Improve the barrier function and the self-protection ability of skin, and had effects such as sun-proof, antiinflammatory, reparation.
Embodiment 10
The full effect ultra light sun block lotion (being followed successively by sample A-F) of embodiment 1-6 preparation is carried out human body experiment on probation.
Choose 30 of healthy volunteers, 12 of male, 18 of women; Age 20-58 year, average (27.6 ± 4.5) year, unglazed perceptual history of disease previously; Do not use the medicine that influences light sensation property at no distant date; Do not have serious systemic disease, immunodeficiency or autoimmune disease, cosmetics are not had allergy, facial NAI, do not use hormone medicine or immunosuppressant, do not participate in other clinical trials, do not smear external preparation.Be divided into 6 groups at random, i.e. sample A, sample B, sample C, sample D, sample E, sample F, 5 every group.According to the assay method of " cosmetics health standard " (version in 2007) about sun care preparations SPF (spf value) and long wave ultraviolet protection index (PFA value), record sample spf value and PFA value, the result sees table 2.
Table 2 cosmetics spf value and PFA value
Group Sample A Sample B Sample C Sample D Sample E Sample F
Skin adverse reaction Do not have Do not have Do not have Do not have Do not have Do not have
Spf value 45.6±1.3 22.2±1.0 40.2±1.5 51.4±1.4 31.2±1.1 25.8±1.2
The PFA value 16.4±0.9 6.6±0.8 10.4±0.9 17.6±0.7 10.8±0.8 14.4±0.6
The obvious height of spf value that this experiment records and PFA value than testing in vitro among the embodiment 8; The full effect ultra light sun block lotion of this explanation among the present invention not only can effectively absorb and shield UVA and UVB to reduce itself and the contacting and infringement of skin; Can also fundamentally improve the self-protection ability of skin comprehensively, have sun-proof, preserve moisture, nutrition, whiten, multi-efficiency such as antiinflammatory, reparation.

Claims (2)

1. full effect ultra light sun block lotion that contains the marine bioactivity material; The active component that it is characterized in that forming this emulsion comprises seashells bioactive peptide 0.5%-6%, marine collagen protein peptide 0.5%-6%, Sargassum polysaccharides 0.1%-1%, allantoin 0.05%-0.6%, V by weight percentage CMagnesium phosphorate 0.1%-5% and V EAcetate 0.1%-5%;
Wherein, Said seashells bioactive peptide is meant the seashells bioactive peptide mixture that makes after ocean shellfish meat is through protease hydrolyzed, the ultrafiltration of 3000Da ultrafilter membrane; Said seashells is meant one or more the combination in Paphia Undulata, Corbiculida, Margarita, scallop, mussel, the Concha Ostreae, and said protease is one or more the combination in bromelain, papain, neutral protease, alkaline protease, pepsin, trypsin, the subtilisin;
Said marine collagen protein peptide is meant cod collagen peptide, sharkskin collagen peptide, holothurian collagen peptide or collagen from squid skin peptide;
Said Sargassum polysaccharides is meant one or more the combination in sodium alginate, Porphyra Polysaccharide, Sargassum polysaccharide, Thallus Laminariae polysaccharide, sargassan, Herba Lysimachiae Clethroids (Radix Seu Herba Lysimachiae Clethroidis) polysaccharide, Eucheuma gelatinosum polysaccharide, Eucheuma striatum polysaccharide, Hijiki polysaccharide, the spirulina polysaccharide;
Wherein, the sunscreen of forming this emulsion is UVA protective agent and UVB protective agent;
Said UVA protective agent is meant one or both the combination in di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide-BTA base tetramethyl butyl phenol, benzophenone-3, the own oxy phenol anisyl of two-ethyl triazine, the PAROSOL 1789, and its weight content in emulsion is respectively di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide-BTA base tetramethyl butyl phenol 0.1%-3.5%, benzophenone-3 0.1%-4%, the own oxy phenol anisyl of two-ethyl triazine 0.2%-4.5%, PAROSOL 1789 0.1%-2.5%;
Said UVB protective agent is meant Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate, 4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora, ethylhexyl salicylate, TiO 2In one or more combination, its weight content in emulsion is respectively Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 0.1%-3%, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 0.02%-8%, 4-methyl benzyl subunit Camphora 0.1%-3%, ethylhexyl salicylate 0.1%-3%, TiO 20.5%-6%.
2. the said full effect ultra light sun block lotion that contains the marine bioactivity material of claim 1, the dosage form that it is characterized in that said emulsion is w/o type or O/W type.
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