CN102083407B - Oily solid-form cosmetic - Google Patents
Oily solid-form cosmetic Download PDFInfo
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- CN102083407B CN102083407B CN200980111961.7A CN200980111961A CN102083407B CN 102083407 B CN102083407 B CN 102083407B CN 200980111961 A CN200980111961 A CN 200980111961A CN 102083407 B CN102083407 B CN 102083407B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
- A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
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Abstract
The objective is to provide an oily solid-form cosmetic, which exhibits excellent spreadability during use and when applied to the finger, reduced stickiness after application, and excellent storage stability and moisture retention. The oily solid-form cosmetic contains (a) 5-25 wt% of a phospholipid, wherein the phospholipid composition is 25-42% phosphatidylcholine and 25-42% phosphatidylethanolamine, (b) silicone oil having a kinematic viscosity of 1-100 mm2/s at 25 DEG C, and (c) an ester oil that is liquid at 25 DEG C. The content ratio (b)/(c) of component (b) to component (c) is 0.006-0.4.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to contain under the phospholipid that Lipid composition is phosphatidylcholine 25～42%, PHOSPHATIDYL ETHANOLAMINE 25～42% (composition (a)), 25 ℃ and have 1～100mm
2The lower content mass ratio (b)/(c) for liquid ester oil (composition (c)), composition (b) and composition (c) of the silicone oil of the kinematic viscosity of/s (composition (b)), 25 ℃ is 0.006～0.4 oily solid shape cosmetics, more specifically, relate to that the extension of finger when taking and using is excellent, after the coating be clamminess sense less, excellent storage stability, high oily solid shape cosmetics of moistening effect simultaneously.
Background technology
Phospholipid as the affine excellence of Ecological relation component for skin, is widely used at cosmetic field usually, in particular as dispersant or emulsifying agent, wetting agent, antioxidant (for example referring to non-patent literature 1).In addition, silicone oil, particularly low viscous silicone oil are used to various uses because of its excellent reflecting feel, ductility, non-greasy sense, lubricity, hydrophobicity, safety etc., also are used in a large number cosmetics (for example referring to non-patent literature 2).
Usually, oily solid shape cosmetics cooperate the oils such as cocoa butter, haze tallow, the wax classes such as Brazil wax, spermaceti, and the wax compositions such as paraffin, microwax make the solidification of oiliness composition.In addition, also knownly do not use above-mentioned wax composition, use the technology of dextrin fatty acid ester etc. as the oleogel agent.Such as relevant for having made up the solid, shaped oiliness compositions such as dextrin fatty acid ester and paraffin, and the flow technology (for example referring to patent documentation 2) of isomerization alkanes and liquid oiliness composition of technology (for example referring to patent documentation 1), combination dextrin fatty acid ester and the heavy of the oily solid cosmetics of liquid oil.
But the technology of patent documentation 1 is because cooperating the solid, shaped oil content, and the usability aspect is sometimes unsatisfactory.In addition, the technology of patent documentation 2 is existing problems aspect usability or storage stability sometimes, the sense of being clamminess after sometimes feeling to be coated with.Above-mentioned technology sometimes cosmetics is difficult for getting on the finger, and it is also poor or sometimes produce the sense of being clamminess to extend when being coated on the skin.
Be directed to this, because silicone oil has the characteristic of various excellences as mentioned above, so research makes silicone oil be included in technology in the oily solid shape cosmetics.For example, disclose about combination dextrin fatty acid ester and average carbon number be the Solic cosmetic that obtains of 40～200 liquid chain hydrocarbon, sterol derivative and methyl phenyl silicone technology (for example referring to patent documentation 3), use have the organopolysiloxane polymer of three-dimensional crosslinking structure, the technology of the silicone based graft copolymer of acrylic acid (for example referring to patent documentation 4,5), about the technology (for example referring to patent documentation 6) of the gel cosmetic that made up fluoric-containing acid amide compound and hydrocarbon ils, silicone oil.In addition, the technology (for example referring to patent documentation 8) of using hydrogenated phospholipid to be used as the gelating agent of silicone oil as the technology (for example referring to patent documentation 7) of oleogel agent, with the inulin stearate is arranged in above-mentioned phospholipid.
But, the technology of patent documentation 3 and above-mentioned patent documentation 1～2 equally finger take or usability, the storage stability such as extension aspect go wrong the sense of being clamminess after sometimes feeling to be coated with.Patent documentation 4,5 technology can't obtain sufficient viscosifying action, so be difficult to obtain stable gelation constituent because the intermiscibility of silicone oil and other oiliness compositions is poor.In addition, the technology of patent documentation 6 is the technology about the new type gel agent, but sometimes finger to take the aspect still insufficient.Although the technology moistening effect of patent documentation 7 is excellent, it is poor to use in a large number phospholipid to cause extending.And then in fact phospholipid accounts for 40% when following in total composition, needs to be used for wax composition that oils is solidified, so the finger of cosmetics is taken poorly sometimes, improves the silicone oil that is clamminess and feels if contain in addition to be useful on, then storage stability variation sometimes.The technology of patent documentation 8 is about the cosmetics with the volatile silicone oils gelation, although usability is excellent, the moistening effect aspect is sometimes unsatisfactory.
The prior art document
Non-patent literature 1: " development and application of functional lipid ", CMC Cinema Magnetique Communication, publication on March 2nd, 1992, p292
Non-patent literature 2: " cosmetics handbook, daylight CHEMICALS Co., Ltd. and other, put down into published on October 30th, 18, p87
Patent documentation 1: JP 2004-51500 communique
Patent documentation 2: Unexamined Patent 9-235210 communique
Patent documentation 3: Unexamined Patent 11-222413 communique
Patent documentation 4: Unexamined Patent 1-79106 communique
Patent documentation 5: Unexamined Patent 2-132141 communique
Patent documentation 6: JP 2005-68198 communique
Patent documentation 7: JP 60-226804 communique
Patent documentation 8: JP 2004-300094 communique
Summary of the invention
Invent problem to be solved
As mentioned above, above-mentioned oily solid shape cosmetics of the prior art mainly use the oil content of solid, shaped or oleogel agent that the oiliness composition is solidified, and are difficult to improve as the finger of cosmetics and take poor, as to extend difference situation.When particularly containing silicone oil in order to improve extension, practical situation is poor according to the different intermiscibilities of kind of oiliness composition, or viscosifying action or gelatinisation ability are insufficient, so through the time observe the preparation reduced viscosity or observe the phenomenon that is called " discharge opeing " that oil content oozes out etc. from gel, effectively situation is few.In addition, also gelating agent is carried out various researchs, but also do not obtained usability or the sufficient product of storage stability.Therefore, wish to develop can obtain that the excellence that silicone oil produces extends, the coating aftersensation less than the sense of being clamminess, can access good use sense, finger is taken the also oily solid shape cosmetics of excellence of good, storage stability or moistening effect simultaneously.
Do not use solid, shaped oil content etc. can make silicone oil stably be engaged in method in the oily solid shape cosmetics even problem of the present invention is to develop yet, provide thus finger to take, extend not to be clamminess behind excellence, the cosmetic material application and then the oily solid shape cosmetics of storage stability, moistening effect excellence.
Be used for solving the means of problem
The inventor conducts in-depth research above-mentioned practical situation, found that under the phospholipid by being combined as specific composition, 25 ℃ to have 1～100mm
2The silicone oil of the kinematic viscosity of/s, 25 ℃ is lower to be liquid ester oils, can access finger and take, extends and be not clamminess behind excellence, the cosmetic material application and then the oily solid shape cosmetics of storage stability and moistening effect excellence, has finished the present invention.
That is, the present invention relates to a kind of oily solid shape cosmetics, it is characterized in that, contain following compositions (a)～(c):
(a) Lipid composition is the phosphatidase 15～25 quality % of phosphatidylcholine 25～42%, PHOSPHATIDYL ETHANOLAMINE 25～42%
(b) has 1～100mm under 25 ℃
2The silicone oil of the kinematic viscosity of/s
(c) 25 ℃ of lower ester oils for liquid state,
The content mass ratio (b)/(c) of composition (b) and composition (c) is 0.006～0.4.
Relate to a kind of oily solid shape cosmetics, it is characterized in that, composition (c) is the branched chain fatty acid of carbon number 6～30 and three ester oils of glycerol.
Relate to a kind of oily solid shape cosmetics, it is characterized in that, composition (c) is three-2 ethyl hexanoic acid glyceride and/or three glyceryl isostearates.
And then relate to a kind of oily gel cosmetics, and it is characterized in that, contain N-acyl-lysine 5～20 quality % as composition (d).
Relating to a kind of oily solid shape cosmetics, is that the composition (a)～(c) with 70～80 ℃ of lower meltings is filled in the container, and its cooling is obtained.
Relating to a kind of oily solid shape cosmetics, is the composition (a)～(c) of 70～80 ℃ of lower meltings and composition (d) to be mixed be filled in the container, and its cooling is obtained.
The invention effect
The finger of oily solid shape cosmetics of the present invention is taken or the excellence that extends, be clamminess sense less, storage stability, moistening effect be excellent.
The specific embodiment
Below describe the present invention in detail.
Composition of the present invention (a) phospholipid is used as the oily solidification agent in the oily solid shape cosmetics, kind as phospholipid, get final product so long as be generally used for the phospholipid of cosmetics, be not particularly limited, such as can use phospholipid from Semen sojae atricolor, from the hydrogenated phospholipid of Semen sojae atricolor, from the phospholipid of egg yolk, from hydrogenated phospholipid of egg yolk etc.Above-mentioned phospholipid is the mixture of phosphatidylcholine (being designated hereinafter simply as PC), PHOSPHATIDYL ETHANOLAMINE (being designated hereinafter simply as PE), phosphatidylinositols (being designated hereinafter simply as PI) etc. normally, different because of different its compositions of origin of phospholipid, the Lipid composition of the phospholipid that uses among the present invention is PC 25～42%, PE 25～42%.If in this scope, then become the oily solid shape cosmetics of excellent storage stability.In Lipid composition, the phospholipid of PC less than 25% is poor to the intermiscibility of oil preparation, and agent does not play a role the phospholipid greater than 42% as oleogel.In addition, in the Lipid composition, the phospholipid of PE less than 25% is difficult to that agent plays a role as oleogel, and the phospholipid greater than 42% and the intermiscibility of oil preparation are poor.As the composition among the present invention (a), can use one or two or more kinds phospholipid, when using more than two kinds, as long as the meansigma methods of Lipid composition is in this scope.As the concrete commodity of this composition (a), can enumerate Lecinol S-10 that is provided by daylight CHEMICALS Co., Ltd. etc.
The content of composition of the present invention (a) is 5～25 quality % (being designated hereinafter simply as " % "), is preferably 8～20%.Be difficult to make oily solidification when containing quantity not sufficient 5%, the storage stability variation.In addition, if surpass 25%, so the variation that then extends, and then the taste grow of phospholipid uniqueness be not preferred as cosmetics.If be 5～25% scope, then can not access more be clamminess, point the excellence of taking, extend, that skin is affine is good, excellent storage stability and the high oily solid shape cosmetics of moistening effect.
Composition of the present invention (b) has 1～100mm under 25 ℃
2The silicone oil of the kinematic viscosity of/s is the silicone oil that is in a liquid state for cosmetics, and ring-type, straight chain shape equimolecular shape are not particularly limited.Particularly, ring-type silicone oil can be enumerated octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, ten diformazan basic rings, six siloxanes, and straight chain shape silicone oil can be enumerated dimethyl polysiloxane, methyl phenyl silicone etc.Has 1～100mm under these 25 ℃
2The silicone oil of the kinematic viscosity of/s can use one kind or two or more, the viewpoint consideration of not being clamminess during from use and extending excellent, particularly preferably straight chain shape silicone oil.Need to prove that kinematic viscosity herein is based on that the crude oil of JIS-K-2283 record and petroleum product-movement viscosity test method and viscosity index (VI) calculation method measures.
Composition of the present invention (b) can use commercially available product, for example as straight chain shape silicone oil, can enumerate KF96A-6cs, KF96A-100cs, KF56, KF50-100cs (more than, chemical industrial company of SHIN-ETSU HANTOTAI system), SH200C-6cs (more than, Dong Li Dow Corning Corporation system), as ring-type silicone oil, can enumerate SH244, SH344, SH245, DC345, DC246 (more than, Dong Li Dow Corning Corporation system), KF-995 (more than, chemical industrial company of SHIN-ETSU HANTOTAI system) etc., be not limited thereto.
The content of composition of the present invention (b) is not particularly limited, and is preferably 0.5～20% in total composition, is particularly preferably 5～15%.By be this scope, can access more to have no sticky feeling, storage stability or the good oily solid shape cosmetics of moistening effect.
As 25 ℃ of lower ester oils for liquid state of the composition that uses among the present invention (c), get final product so long as be generally used for the material of cosmetics, be not particularly limited, such as enumerating Palmic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester, Palmic acid isopropyl esters, myristic acid isopropyl esters, different n-nonanoic acid isotridecyl ester, the different nonyl ester of different n-nonanoic acid, two sad dimethyltrimethylene glycol esters, three glyceryl isostearates, three-2 ethyl hexanoic acid glyceride, didecyl acid propylene glycol ester, two sad propylene glycol esters, three (the hot last of the ten Heavenly stems) acid glyceride etc., can use one kind or two or more in the above-claimed cpd.
In the above-claimed cpd, consider the branched chain fatty acid of preferred carbon number 6～30 becomes ester to obtain with glycerol three ester oils from having no sticky feeling the aspect.Particularly, can enumerate three glyceryl isostearates, three-2 ethyl hexanoic acid glyceride etc., as its commercially available product, can enumerate TIO (N), SALACOS 3318 (be day clear OilliO company system), TRIFAT S-308 (daylight CHEMICALS company system) etc.
The content of composition of the present invention (c) is not particularly limited, and is preferably 30～90% in total composition, is particularly preferably 40～80%.By being this scope, can access extend excellent, be not clamminess, the excellent oily solid shape cosmetics such as storage stability, moistening effect.
Composition (b) in the oily solid shape cosmetics of the present invention and content mass ratio (b)/(c) (c) are 0.006～0.4.During match ratio less than 0.006, be clamminess during use, not preferred.In addition, if match ratio surpasses 0.4, then storage stability is unsatisfactory.More preferably (b)/(c) is 0.01～0.2, if be in this scope, then can access extension when using excellent, be not clamminess and the oily solid shape cosmetics of storage stability or moistening effect excellence.
For the sense of being clamminess after suppressing to be coated with, improve storage stability, can in oily solid shape cosmetics of the present invention, further contain composition (d) N-acyl-lysine.As the N-acyl-lysine, get final product so long as be used for the chemical compound of common cosmetics, be not particularly limited.Such as enumerating N ε-lauroyl lysine, N ε-cocoyl lysine, N ε-hydrogenated tallow fatty acid acyl-lysine, N α-caprylyl lysine, N α-lauroyl lysine, N α-myristoyl lysine, N alpha-oil acyl-lysine, N α-mountain Yu acyl-lysine etc.Above-claimed cpd can separately or mix more than 2 kinds and uses.The sense aspect that is clamminess of skin is considered from suppressing, particularly as the hydro-oleophobicity powder body N ε-lauroyl lysine is excellent, the preferred mean diameter of its shape is the tabular of 1～30 μ m.As the commercially available product of above-mentioned N ε-lauroyl lysine, can enumerate Amihope LL (aginomoto company system) etc.
The content of composition of the present invention (d) is not particularly limited, and is being preferably 5～20% in total the composition, and more preferably 10～15%.If be this scope, then can obtain affine good, oily solid shape cosmetics that storage stability improves to skin.
The manufacture method of oily solid shape cosmetics of the present invention is not particularly limited, and preferably fills by melting and makes.The composition (d) that for example can pass through blending constituent (a), composition (b), composition (c) and use as required evenly is filled in the container after the melting, obtains the better oily solid shape cosmetics of storage stability.Temperature during melting is filled is preferably the scope below 80 ℃ more than 70 ℃, if 70 ℃ of less thaies, then composition (a) phospholipid reduces the dispersibility of oiliness composition sometimes, in addition, if surpass 80 ℃, the rotten fouling of composition (a) phospholipid then occurs sometimes, so not preferred.By will be in this temperature range the melting composition of filling be cooled to room temperature, can access oily solid shape cosmetics.
Can be in the scope that does not hinder effect of the present invention in oily solid shape cosmetics of the present invention, cooperate any composition of usually being engaged in the cosmetics etc., be in addition the oleogel agent of in addition oil preparation of composition (b), composition (c), powder body, surfactant, composition (a), organo-clay mineral, resin, UV absorbent, antiseptic, antibacterial, spice, antioxidant, wetting agent etc.
Oily solid shape cosmetics of the present invention are by using specific phospholipid, needn't use at present that necessary solid wet goods can be solid, shaped, but also can contain solid oil not destroying the scope of taking easiness as the finger of effect of the present invention.Content as solid oil at this moment about below 5%, is preferably below 1% greatly.
The cosmetics of the present invention that obtain thus are solid, shaped, in this description solid, shaped for example refer to by flow graph (FUDOH RHEOMETER NRM-2002D: motionless industrial group system), in 35 ℃, pin footpath
Pin enters the pin of measuring under the condition of speed 6cm/min, needle penetration 2.0mm and enters load value more than 20.0g, also comprises so-called gel.In addition, as oily solid shape cosmetics of the present invention, can enumerate the cosmetics such as skin care product, cosmetics (makeup), Hair grooming.More specifically, can enumerate eye cream, massage material, facial film, hand cream, protective skin cream, lipstick, lip gloss, lip maintenance frost, lip pomade, lip cream base etc., particularly preferably use etc. with, lip as eye and partly use, wherein, preferred eye is used white.In addition, can be the cosmetics such as the faces such as sun-proof, white, beautifying liquid, facial film, hair caring material, hair growth promoting material, brothers, health basic cosmetics, foundation cream, eye shadow, informer, mascara.In addition, its using method is not particularly limited, can enumerate the method for using the props such as spatula or with hands, refer to directly be coated with the method used etc.
Embodiment
Below enumerate embodiment and be described in more detail the present invention, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
Embodiment 1
The present invention's product 1～8 and product 1～11 relatively: solid, shaped cream
Press the composition shown in table 1 and the table 2 and following method for making modulation solid, shaped cream.As the evaluation of using sense, by the panelist to (1) finger take, (2) extension formedness, (3) not being clamminess property carry out sensory evaluation.As the storage stability of solid, shaped cream, in 50 ℃ temperature chamber, placed 1 month, with the naked eye the variation (separation, discharge opeing) of outward appearance is estimated.The results are shown in table 1 and table 2.
[table 1]
The kinematic viscosity of composition No.6～10 is the value under 25 ℃.
(annotating 1) Castolide MS (National Mei Song company system)
(annotating 2) Amihope LL (aginomoto company system)
[table 2]
The kinematic viscosity of composition No.6～10 is the value under 25 ℃.
(annotating 1) Castolide MS (National Mei Song company system)
(annotating 2) Amihope LL (aginomoto company system)
(manufacture method)
A: composition (1)～(17) are heated to 80 ℃.
B: with A distributing mixer mix and blend.
C: B (80 ℃) is filled in the container, is cooled to room temperature, obtain solid, shaped cream.
(evaluation methodology: use sense)
Make 20 20～40 years old women professional group librarian use the present invention product and the solid, shaped cream of product relatively, based on following (first) or (second) 5 grades of metewands to (1) finger take, (2) extension formedness, (3) not being clamminess property carry out sensory evaluation, re-use the meansigma methods that (the third) 4 grade of determinating reference is judged all personnel of professional group scorings.
(first) 5 grades of metewands (finger is taken)
(evaluation): (scoring)
Unusual good getting: 5 minutes
Get well: 4 minutes
It is common to take the aspect: 3 minutes
It is slightly poor to take: 2 minutes
Unusual difficult getting: 1 minute
(second) 5 grades of metewands (extension formedness, not being clamminess property)
(evaluation): (scoring)
Feel very good: 5 minutes
Sensation is better: 4 minutes
Common: 3 minutes
Sensation is not so good: 2 minutes
No sensation: 1 minute
(the third) 4 grade of determinating reference
(all meansigma methodss of the personnel of professional group scoring): (judgement)
Average mark is more than 4.5: ◎
Average mark 3.5 above less thaies 4.5: zero
Average mark 2.5 above less than 3.5: △
Average mark less than 2.5: *
(evaluation methodology: whether solidification)
Detect by an unaided eye outward appearance in the time of will being cooled to room temperature with the oily solid cosmetics of said method manufacturing is judged based on following (fourth) 4 grades of absolute determinating references.
(fourth) 4 grades of absolute determinating references
(evaluation methodology: whether solidification): (judgement)
Do not see discharge opeing fully, solidification: ◎
Littlely see discharge opeing, but be no problem level: zero
Slightly see discharge opeing, part not solidification: △
Obviously observe discharge opeing, do not have solidification: *
(evaluation methodology: storage stability)
Each sample was placed 1 month in 50 ℃ temperature chamber, and the cosmetic variation that detects by an unaided eye (discharge opeing degree) is judged based on following (penta) 4 grade of absolute determinating reference.
(penta) 4 grade of absolute determinating reference
(discharge opeing degree): (judgement)
Do not observe discharge opeing: ◎ fully
Littlely see discharge opeing, but no problem level: zero
Slightly see discharge opeing: △
Obviously observe discharge opeing: *
By the result of table 1 and table 2 as can be known, the finger of the solid, shaped cream of the present invention's product 1～8 take, extend formedness, not being clamminess property, excellent storage stability.On the contrary, use the composition of PC and PE to be not included in the relatively product 1 of the hydrogenated phospholipid in the above-mentioned scope and product 2 relatively, hydrogenated phospholipid can't evenly be molten in other compositions, fills, also do not become during cooling solid, shaped.Use relatively product 3,4 the result of the oleogel agent beyond the phospholipid poor as the intermiscibility of oleogel agent and silicone oil, do not form solid, shaped, silicone oil separates.Use as 25 ℃ times relatively product 5 as the stearic acid castor oil hydrogenated of the ester oil of semi-solid, the ratios of composition (b)/composition (c) and do not become solid, shaped at 0.006～0.4 extraneous relatively product 6.In addition, the content of composition (A) phospholipid is insufficient in 5～25% extraneous relatively product 7 solidifications, the non-constant of storage stability.Replace composition (b) to contain kinematic viscosity and be respectively 175mm
2/ s, 200mm
2The storage stability of the relatively product 8 of the silicone oil of/s, 9 gel is poor, and the non-constant of the extension when using in addition is clamminess.The ratio that contains hardly composition (b), composition (b)/composition (c) is lower than 0.006 relatively product 10 and is solid, shaped, and storage stability is good, but sensation is sticking when using.The content of composition (a) surpasses gel formation, the excellent storage stability of 25% relatively product 11, but the extension when using is poor, and sensation is sticking.
Embodiment 2
The present invention's product 9～10 and product 12～15 relatively: solid, shaped cream
Press the composition shown in the table 3 and following method for making modulation solid, shaped cream.For the solid, shaped cream that obtains, measure moisture penetration speed, shear stress, in addition, carry out sensory evaluation ((b) prickling sensation, (c) moistening effect after (a) extension, the coating).
[table 3]
(manufacture method)
A: composition is heated to 80 ℃.
B: with A distributing mixer mix and blend.
C: B (80 ℃) is filled in the container, is cooled to room temperature, obtain solid, shaped cream.
(moisture evapotranspire speed trial)
To invention product 9, relatively the solid, shaped cream of product 12～14 is studied occlusive.Use scraper that this solid, shaped cream is uniformly coated on the polyvinylidene chlorida film of the Franz type diffusion cell of having put into the 0.9%NaCl aqueous solution, making coating weight is 0.2g, and spreading area is 8.03cm
2, thickness is 400 μ m.
Measure the weight change in the pond of beginning after 8 hours, it as accumulation moisture transit dose, is calculated per 1 hour every 1m by following formula
2The moisture speed of evapotranspiring.In addition, estimate similarly to Example 1 whether solidification.The results are shown in table 4.
Moisture speed (the g/hrm that evapotranspires
2)=
(accumulation moisture transit dose (g)/time (hr)) * (100 * 100/8.03)
[table 4]
| Invention product 9 | Relatively product 12 | Relatively product 13 | Relatively product 14 | |
| Hydrogenated phospholipid (PC:32%, PE32%) | 10 | - | - | - |
| Hydrogenated phospholipid (PC:80%, PE:5%) | - | 10 | - | - |
| Dextrin palmitate | - | - | 10 | - |
| Candelilla wax | - | - | - | 10 |
| Three glyceryl isostearates | 89 | 89 | 89 | 89 |
| Dimethyl polysiloxane (10mm 2/s) | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| N ε-lauroyl lysine (annotating 2) | - | - | - | - |
| Whether solidification | ◎ | × | ◎ | ◎ |
| Moisture speed (the g/hrm that evapotranspires 2) | 2.32 | 63.70 | 11.25 | 43.26 |
The moisture of the present invention's product 9 speed of evapotranspiring is very low, so occlusive is high, moistening effect is excellent.On the other hand, use the relatively product 12 that form different phospholipid not form gel.In addition, replace phospholipid to use relatively product 13,14 the moisture of other oleogel agent speed height that evapotranspires, occlusive is low.
(shear stress mensuration)
Enter the essentially identical the present invention's product 9 of load value, the solid, shaped cream of product 15 relatively for pin, shear stress is measured in the extension when estimating coating.By CSL type pressure control type flow graph (2 ° of taperer 4cm, 15 ℃ of mensuration temperature), the shear stress of the point that the straight line that mensuration is drawn by the initial point of shear rate, shear stress curve staggers.The results are shown in Fig. 1.Need to prove, pin enter load value by flow graph (FUDOH RHEOMETER NRM-2002D: motionless industrial group system) measure (
D=2mm, 6cm/min, 35 ℃, 1h).
[table 5]
| Invention product 9 | Relatively product 15 | |
| Hydrogenated phospholipid (PC:32%, PE32%) | 10 | - |
| Hydrogenated phospholipid (PC:80%, PE:5%) | - | - |
| Dextrin palmitate | - | - |
| Candelilla wax | - | 6 |
| Three glyceryl isostearates | 89 | 93 |
| Dimethyl polysiloxane (10mm 2/s) | 1 | 1 |
| N ε-lauroyl lysine (annotating 2) | - | - |
| Pin enters load value (35 ℃) | 54 | 55 |
As shown in Figure 1, identical even pin enters to load, relatively the crystalline texture of product 15 is hard, needs very strong power in order to destroy crystalline texture.On the contrary, the present invention's product 9 can destroy gel with weak shear stress, so show level and smooth extension.
In addition, the scanning electron microscope photo of the gel of the present invention's product 9 is shown in Fig. 2.By this photo platelet of the gel formation stratiform of the present invention's product 9 (lamella crystal) as can be known.Consider the platelet that forms this stratiform, infer that suppressing as mentioned above moisture evapotranspires, destroy gel with weak shear stress in addition, it is good to extend.
(sensory evaluation)
For invention product 9～10 and the gel of product 11～12 relatively, allow respectively 20 personnel of professional group be coated on the face, based on (A) 5 grades of metewands for (a) in when coating extend, (b) prickling sensation, (c) moistening effect after the coating estimate, and then use (B) 4 grades of determinating references to judge the average mark of the scoring of each sample.The results are shown in table 6.
(A) 5 grades of metewands
(scoring): (evaluation)
5 minutes: very good
4 minutes: good
3 minutes: common
2 minutes: bad
1 minute: very bad
(B) 4 grades of determinating references
(judgement): (average mark of scoring)
◎: average mark is more than 4.5
Zero: average mark is in 3.5 above less thaies 4.5
△: average mark is in 2.5 above less thaies 3.5
*: average mark less than 2.5
[table 6]
| Invention product 9 | Invention product 10 | Relatively product 13 | Relatively product 14 | |
| Hydrogenated phospholipid (PC:32%, PE:32%) | 10 | 10 | - | - |
| Hydrogenated phospholipid (PC:80%, PE:5%) | - | - | - | - |
| Dextrin palmitate | - | - | 10 | - |
| Candelilla wax | - | - | - | 10 |
| Three glyceryl isostearates | 89 | 84 | 89 | 89 |
| Dimethyl polysiloxane (10mm 2/s) | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| N ε-lauroyl lysine (annotating 2) | - | 5 | - | - |
| The extension formedness | ◎(4.5) | ◎(4.8) | ×(2) | △(3) |
| Prickling sensation after the use | ◎(4.5) | ◎(4.8) | ×(2) | ○(3.5) |
| Moistening effect | ◎(4.5) | ◎(4.8) | ×(2) | △(3) |
Invention product 9,10 " extension formedness ", " prickling sensation after the use ", " moistening effect " all show the effect of excellence.Particularly invention product 10 all show more excellent effect by the powder body lauroyl lysine that contains promising amino acid derivativges.On the other hand, about the relatively product 13,14 with Dextrin palmitate or candelilla wax gelation, feel the sense of being clamminess of the oil preparation that contains, in addition, be difficult to affine to skin, so " extension formedness ", " prickling sensation after the use ", " moistening effect " are all unsatisfactory.
Embodiment 3: solid, shaped massage material
Modulate the solid, shaped massage material of following prescription by following method for making.
4, ethyl oleate 0.1
5, three-2 ethyl hexanoic acid glyceride 32.0
6, nylon powder 7.0
7, N ε-lauroyl lysine (annotating 2) 8.0
8, liquid paraffin surplus
9, antioxidant 0.1
10, antiseptic is an amount of
11, spice is an amount of
(annotating 3) Lipid composition PC:28%, PE:28%
(annotating 4) kinematic viscosity 20mm
2/ s (25 ℃)
(manufacture method)
A: composition (1)～(11) are heated to 80 ℃.
B: carry out mix and blend with the distributing mixer.
C: B (80 ℃) is filled in the container, is cooled to room temperature, obtain solid, shaped massage material.
It is 120g that the pin of the solid, shaped of embodiment 3 massage material 35 ℃ under enters load value, finger take, extend formedness, not being clamminess property, skin is affine, storage stability, moistening effect excellence.
Embodiment 4: the solid, shaped hand cream
Modulate the solid, shaped hand cream of following prescription by following method for making.
(annotating 5) Lipid composition PC:32%, PE:32%
(annotating 6) kinematic viscosity 100mm
2/ s (25 ℃)
(manufacture method)
A: composition (1)～(10) are heated to 80 ℃.
B: with A distributing mixer mix and blend.
C: B (80 ℃) is filled in the container, is cooled to room temperature, obtain the solid, shaped hand cream.
It is 60g that the pin of solid, shaped hand cream under 35 ℃ of embodiment 4 enters load value, finger take, extend formedness, not being clamminess property, skin is affine, storage stability, moistening effect excellent.
Embodiment 5: eye frost (solid, shaped)
Modulate the eye of following prescription by following method for making with white.
(annotating 7) Lipid composition PC:31%, PE:40%
(annotating 8) kinematic viscosity 20mm
2/ s (25 ℃)
(annotating 9) kinematic viscosity 40mm
2/ s (25 ℃)
(manufacture method)
A: composition (1)～(13) are heated to 80 ℃.
B: with A distributing mixer mix and blend.
C: B (80 ℃) is filled in the container, is cooled to room temperature, obtain eye with white.
It is 80g that the eye of embodiment 5 enters load value with the pin of frost 35 ℃ under, point the formedness of taking, extend, not being clamminess property, skin is affine, storage stability, moistening effect excellence.
Embodiment 6: protective skin cream (solid, shaped)
Modulate the protective skin cream of following prescription by following method for making.
(annotating 10) Lipid composition PC:28%, PE:28%
(annotating 11) Rheopearl ISK (Chiba powder process company system)
(annotating 12) kinematic viscosity 20mm
2/ s (25 ℃)
(method for making)
A: composition (1)～(12) are heated to 80 ℃.
B: with A distributing mixer mix and blend.
C: B (80 ℃) is filled in the container, is cooled to room temperature, obtain the solid, shaped protective skin cream.
It is 65g that the pin of the protective skin cream of embodiment 6 under 35 ℃ enters load value, finger take, extend formedness, not being clamminess property, skin is affine, storage stability, moistening effect excellent.
Description of drawings
The present invention product 9 and the relatively figure of the shear stress of product 15 of [Fig. 1] expression among the embodiment 2.
The scanning electron microscope photo of [Fig. 2] the present invention product 9.
Claims (5)
1. oily solid shape cosmetics is characterized in that, contain following compositions (a)～(c):
(a) Lipid composition is the phosphatidase 15～25 quality % of phosphatidylcholine 25～42%, PHOSPHATIDYL ETHANOLAMINE 25～42%
(b) has 1～100mm under 25 ℃
2The kinematic viscosity of/s, be selected from the silicone oil of octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, ten diformazan basic rings, six siloxanes, dimethyl polysiloxane, methyl phenyl silicone
(c) 25 ℃ are down ester oil liquid, that be selected from Palmic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester, Palmic acid isopropyl esters, myristic acid isopropyl esters, different n-nonanoic acid isotridecyl ester, the different nonyl ester of different n-nonanoic acid, two sad DOPCP, three glyceryl isostearates, three-2 ethyl hexanoic acid glyceride, didecyl acid propylene glycol ester, two sad propylene glycol esters, three (the hot last of the ten Heavenly stems) acid glyceride and 2 ethyl hexanoic acid cetyl ester
The content mass ratio (b)/(c) of composition (b) and composition (c) is 0.006～0.4.
2. oily solid shape cosmetics as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, composition (c) is three-2 ethyl hexanoic acid glyceride and/or three glyceryl isostearates.
3. oily solid shape cosmetics as claimed in claim 1 or 2 is characterized in that, also contain composition (d) N-acyl-lysine 5～20 quality %.
4. oily solid shape cosmetics as claimed in claim 1 or 2 are that the composition (a)～(c) with 70～80 ℃ of lower meltings is filled in the container, and its cooling is obtained.
5. oily solid shape cosmetics as claimed in claim 3 are the composition (a)～(c) of 70～80 ℃ of lower meltings and composition (d) to be mixed be filled in the container, and its cooling is obtained.
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2008089824 | 2008-03-31 | ||
| JP2008-089824 | 2008-03-31 | ||
| PCT/JP2009/056444 WO2009123086A1 (en) | 2008-03-31 | 2009-03-30 | Oily solid-form cosmetic |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN102083407A CN102083407A (en) | 2011-06-01 |
| CN102083407B true CN102083407B (en) | 2013-05-29 |
Family
ID=41135462
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN200980111961.7A Active CN102083407B (en) | 2008-03-31 | 2009-03-30 | Oily solid-form cosmetic |
Country Status (6)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP5559038B2 (en) |
| KR (1) | KR101606776B1 (en) |
| CN (1) | CN102083407B (en) |
| HK (1) | HK1154811A1 (en) |
| TW (1) | TWI432221B (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2009123086A1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP5497517B2 (en) * | 2010-03-31 | 2014-05-21 | 株式会社コーセー | Polyhydric alcohol type sheet cosmetic in oil |
| JP5784932B2 (en) * | 2011-03-08 | 2015-09-24 | 株式会社コーセー | Oily solid cosmetic |
| JP6364979B2 (en) * | 2014-06-06 | 2018-08-01 | 日油株式会社 | Gel elastomer composition and cosmetic gel sheet using the same |
Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2005239707A (en) * | 2004-01-28 | 2005-09-08 | Kose Corp | Water-based solid cosmetic material |
| JP2006045163A (en) * | 2004-08-06 | 2006-02-16 | Kose Corp | Water-based solid cosmetic |
Family Cites Families (11)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS60226804A (en) | 1984-04-26 | 1985-11-12 | Mitsuo Matsumoto | Stick cosmetic |
| JP2561857B2 (en) | 1987-06-05 | 1996-12-11 | 株式会社コーセー | Oily makeup cosmetics |
| JP2700816B2 (en) | 1988-07-12 | 1998-01-21 | 株式会社コーセー | Gel composition and cosmetic containing the same |
| JPH09235210A (en) | 1996-02-29 | 1997-09-09 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Solid cosmetic |
| JPH10265324A (en) * | 1997-03-25 | 1998-10-06 | Noevir Co Ltd | Oil-based cosmetic |
| JP3557542B2 (en) * | 1997-07-30 | 2004-08-25 | 株式会社コーセー | Oily solid cosmetics |
| JPH11222413A (en) | 1998-02-02 | 1999-08-17 | Nippon Shikizai Inc | Solid cosmetic |
| JP5000033B2 (en) * | 1998-12-28 | 2012-08-15 | 株式会社ワイエムシィ | Advanced hydrogenated lecithin |
| JP2004051500A (en) | 2002-07-17 | 2004-02-19 | Noevir Co Ltd | Solid oily cosmetic |
| JP4054705B2 (en) | 2003-03-31 | 2008-03-05 | 株式会社コーセー | Cosmetics |
| JP2005068198A (en) | 2003-08-27 | 2005-03-17 | Nippon Menaade Keshohin Kk | Gelling agent and cosmetic containing the same |
-
2009
- 2009-03-30 KR KR1020107020177A patent/KR101606776B1/en active IP Right Grant
- 2009-03-30 CN CN200980111961.7A patent/CN102083407B/en active Active
- 2009-03-30 JP JP2010505885A patent/JP5559038B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2009-03-30 WO PCT/JP2009/056444 patent/WO2009123086A1/en active Application Filing
- 2009-03-31 TW TW98110766A patent/TWI432221B/en active
-
2011
- 2011-09-01 HK HK11109248.8A patent/HK1154811A1/en unknown
Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2005239707A (en) * | 2004-01-28 | 2005-09-08 | Kose Corp | Water-based solid cosmetic material |
| JP2006045163A (en) * | 2004-08-06 | 2006-02-16 | Kose Corp | Water-based solid cosmetic |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN102083407A (en) | 2011-06-01 |
| HK1154811A1 (en) | 2012-05-04 |
| TWI432221B (en) | 2014-04-01 |
| JP5559038B2 (en) | 2014-07-23 |
| KR20100133973A (en) | 2010-12-22 |
| TW201002357A (en) | 2010-01-16 |
| JPWO2009123086A1 (en) | 2011-07-28 |
| KR101606776B1 (en) | 2016-03-28 |
| WO2009123086A1 (en) | 2009-10-08 |
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