JP5825780B2 - Oily solid cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to an oily solid cosmetic having good shape retention, gloss, smooth and moist feel, and excellent makeup lasting effect.

Conventionally, oily solid cosmetics such as lipsticks and foundations have been composed mainly of waxes, oils, and powders as main skeleton components, and various qualities are realized by changing the types and amounts of these components. . In these oily solid cosmetics, particularly lipstick compositions, there is a problem that so-called secondary adhesion occurs in which the lipstick is transferred to a cup or clothing after being applied to the lips. In addition, foundations with improved makeup sustainability in recent years also have a problem of secondary adhesion of the foundation to clothes and the like.

For this reason, in oily solid cosmetics such as lipsticks, many techniques have been developed that are excellent in the effect of preventing secondary adhesion and excellent in makeup sustainability. Specifically, by blending a silicone resin dissolved in volatile silicone, it is applied to the lips, and after the volatile silicone is volatilized and dried, a technique for forming a silicone resin film on the lip surface (Patent Literature) 1) Technology for improving the water / oil repellency of a cosmetic film by blending a fluorine-based oil agent such as fluorine-modified silicone or perfluoropolyether in which fluorine is introduced into a linear silicone chain (Patent Document 2), etc. Is mentioned. In addition, these techniques have been used in foundations as well.

JP 09-124430 A JP 2000-281791

However, the technique of blending a lipstick with a silicone resin and a volatile silicone sometimes reduces the gloss of the decorative film as the volatile silicone is dried. In addition, the technology that mixes silicone resin and volatile silicone in the foundation has the problem that the cosmetic film shrinks with the drying of the volatile silicone, so that the skin is pulled (so-called tension) and the cosmetic film has flexibility. In some cases, the problem of lowering may occur. Furthermore, the technique of blending fluorine-modified silicone, perfluoropolyether, etc., in which fluorine is introduced into a linear silicone chain, may cause poor spread and adhesion.

In addition, bases having properties of solid base ingredients such as waxes in silicone oils and silicone oils are generally incompatible with other cosmetic oils, and it is difficult to prepare a stable and stable product. there were. Occasionally, when a large amount is contained in order to effectively exhibit the characteristics of silicone, a phenomenon such as separation and discharge may occur over time.
In particular, when a silicone material is used in combination with waxes, the compatibility is poor and the wax is likely to precipitate, and the properties of the wax itself appear. It was difficult to get.

For this reason, the development of oily solid cosmetics with good compatibility between silicone and other components, good usability, excellent gloss after application, and excellent moist feeling and long-lasting cosmetic effect. It was desired.

This invention contains the following component (A)-( F ), the compounding quantity of a component (A) is 3 to 15 weight% in all the components of cosmetics, and the compounding quantity of a component (B) is 5 to 20% by weight in the total ingredients of the cosmetic,
The compounding quantity of a component (D) is an oil-based solid cosmetic characterized by being 5-20 mass% in all the components of cosmetics.
Acrylic-silicone graft copolymer (A)
Vaseline (B)
Semisolid phytosterol ester (C) selected from the group consisting of phytosteryl oleate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (phytosteryl / behenyl / 2-octyldodecyl), macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl (C)
Methylphenylpolysiloxane (D)
One or more highly polar ester oils selected from diisostearyl malate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, hydrogenated isostearic acid castor oil, octyldodecyl lactate (E)
Wax (F)

The oil-based solid cosmetic is 3 to 15% by mass of the acrylic-silicone graft copolymer (A), 5 to 20% by mass of petrolatum (B), and 5 to 20% by mass of semisolid phytosterol ester (C). %, Methylphenylpolysiloxane (D) is preferably blended in an amount of 5 to 20% by mass.

Upper Symbol Acrylic - ratio of silicone-based graft copolymer (A) and the highly polar ester oil (E) is 1: 3 to 1: is preferably 5.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention has good shape retention, gloss, smooth and moist feel, and has an excellent effect of maintaining makeup.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
Since the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention contains the acrylic-silicone graft copolymer (A), good water and oil resistance is obtained, and adhesion of the cosmetic coating film on the skin is achieved. Good makeup and excellent makeup persistence. Furthermore, by using such an acrylic-silicone graft copolymer (A) in combination with a specific oil component, there is no problem that the compatibility is deteriorated, thereby making full use of the characteristics of silicone. It is possible to obtain an oily solid cosmetic that does not cause the above-described problems.

The acrylic-silicone graft copolymer (A) is a graft polymer in which polysiloxane is a main chain and an acrylic polymer is bonded as a side chain. The purpose of adding the acrylic-silicone graft copolymer (A) is to improve makeup durability by improving water and oil resistance and improving adhesion of the cosmetic coating film on the skin. .

Conventionally, acrylic raw materials used as raw materials for lipsticks, etc. have excellent film-forming properties, excellent adhesion, and the effect of preventing color migration and improving makeup sustainability, but the film is hard There was a problem of becoming sticky. Use of the above acrylic-silicone graft copolymer (A) improves the feel of water in addition to water / oil resistance and moisture permeability by adding silicone characteristics to compensate for acrylic defects. In addition, by containing it together with other essential components such as the above (B) to (E), it is possible to realize a cosmetic material having good usability and excellent makeup sustainability.

The component (A) is preferably a solid oil having a melting point of 25 ° C to 55 ° C. Examples of commercially available components (A) include KP-561P and KP-562P (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).

The content of the component (A) is preferably 3 to 15% by mass, more preferably 3 to 10% by mass, based on all the components of the cosmetic. If it is less than 3%, it is not preferable in that the makeup lasting effect may be insufficient, and if it exceeds 15%, it is not preferable in that the feeling of use such as spreading and spreading may be insufficient.

The petrolatum (B) is a semi-solid hydrocarbon. By mix | blending the said petrolatum (B), compatibility with a component (A) and another oil-based component becomes favorable, and the compatibility of cosmetics also becomes favorable. Thereby, the makeup sustaining effect by blending the component (A) can be exhibited well. Furthermore, it is a component necessary for obtaining a smooth and moist feel.

The content of the component (B) is preferably 5 to 20% by mass and more preferably 5 to 10% by mass in all the components of the cosmetic. If it is less than 5%, the compatibility between the oil component and the component (A) may deteriorate, and the smoothness may not be sufficient. If it exceeds 20%, the feeling in use may be poor, and further, the temperature stability may be lacking, which is not preferable.

Commercially available products of petrolatum (B) include Nom Cote W (Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd.), White Petrolatum (Witco Chemical), Sun White (P-150), Sun White (P-200) (Nikko Rica Co., Ltd.) Etc.

The semi-solid phytosterol ester (C) is a compound obtained by esterifying phytosterol. Phytosterol is a sterol compound obtained from vegetable fats and oils, and β-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol, brassicasterol and the like are collectively referred to as plant sterols. These plant sterols are derived from components of the plasma membrane of plant cells, but are thought to play a role similar to cholesterol derived from the plasma membrane of animal cells. The phytosterol ester (C) used in the present invention has good compatibility with other raw materials by esterifying the phytosterol with a fatty acid, and has excellent stability and functionality in cosmetics. . More specifically, for example, oleic acid, palmitooleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, ricinoleic acid, isononanoic acid, myristic acid, undecylenic acid, 2-ethyl A semi-solid esterified product with hexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid or the like can be used. More preferable examples include phytosteryl oleate, di-N-lauroyl-L-glutamate (phytosteryl / behenyl / 2-octyldodecyl), and macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl. By using these, particularly preferable results can be obtained in the above-described effects. Two or more of these may be used in combination.

The content of the component (C) is preferably 5 to 20% by mass and more preferably 7 to 15% by mass in all the components of the cosmetic. If it is less than 5%, the shape retention, smoothness and moisture may be insufficient. If it exceeds 20%, the compatibility of the cosmetic may be deteriorated.

As a commercial item of the said component (C), Saracos PO (T) (made by Nisshin Eulio Co., Ltd.), L Dew PS-304 (made by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.), YOFCO MAS (made by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.), etc. can be used. .

The methylphenyl polysiloxane (D) is a component added for the purpose of obtaining the compatibility of the component (A) with the oily cosmetic and improving the gloss feeling. The content of the component (D) is preferably 5 to 20% by mass and more preferably 5 to 10% by mass in all the components of the cosmetic. If it is less than 5%, the compatibility of the component (A) with the oily cosmetic may be deteriorated, and the glossy feeling may be insufficient. When it exceeds 20%, the compatibility with cosmetics may deteriorate.

As a commercial item of the said component (D), silicone KF-56 (made by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), silicone SH-556 (made by Toray Dow Corning) etc. can be used.

Said highly polar ester oil (E) is 1 or more types chosen from diisostearyl malate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, hydrogenated isostearic acid castor oil, and octyldodecyl lactate. By blending the component (E), the compatibility of the component (A) with the cosmetic is further improved, and the viscosity and hardness of the cosmetic are increased. As the viscosity of the component (E) is higher, the viscosity and hardness of the cosmetic can be improved. The component (E) may be in any form of liquid, semi-solid, and solid.

The component (E) preferably has a viscosity of 350 mPa · s or more. This was done using a Bismetron rotational viscometer (manufactured by Shibaura System Co., Ltd.) at 25 ° C., rotor No. It is a numerical value measured under conditions of 4, 12 rpm.

The component (E) is preferably blended so that the ratio with the component (A) is in the range of 1: 3 to 1: 5. By making it the compounding quantity within the above-mentioned range, it is preferable in that the effect described above becomes particularly remarkable.

As a commercial item of the said component (E), Cosmol 222, Cosmall 42V, Cosmall 43V, Cosmall 13 (made by Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd.), Risocasta MIS (made by a higher alcohol industry company), etc. can be used.

The oily solid cosmetic of the present invention may contain components other than the essential components. Examples of such optional components include various waxes and oil agents. Furthermore, medicinal ingredients generally used in the cosmetics field, flavoring agents, refreshing agents, UV absorbers, UV scattering agents, suspending agents, stabilizers, wetting agents, antioxidants, pH adjusting agents, viscosity adjusting agents, Coloring agents, preservatives and the like can be blended. Moreover, the oily solid cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a general method for producing an oily solid cosmetic.

The oily solid cosmetic of the present invention can be used particularly suitably for lip cosmetics such as lipsticks, glosses, and lip balms, and also used for other makeup cosmetics such as foundations and eye shadows. can do.

EXAMPLES The present invention will be further described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, all compounding quantities represent the mass%.
<Examples 1 to 9, Comparative Examples 1 to 8 (lipstick)>
<Preparation method>
After components 1 to 21 are uniformly dissolved and mixed, components 22 to 26 are added and kneaded to obtain a semi-finished product. The semi-finished product is degassed, filled into a predetermined mold and solidified, and then inserted into a container to obtain the intended lipstick. The obtained lipstick was subjected to an evaluation test based on the following criteria. The component composition and evaluation test results are shown in Table 1.

(1) Evaluation was made according to the following criteria by visual evaluation of workers in mold-holding production. ◎: Cleanly peeled off from mold and no problem. ○: Hard to peel from mold but clean and no problem. There is adhesion to the mold ×: Can not be removed from the mold

(2) Usage characteristic evaluation test method 20 female panelists apply examples and comparative examples, and have a four-point evaluation from 4 points to 1 point for the following items. It was evaluated.
・ Gloss when applying ・ Smooth feeling when applying ・ Moist feeling of lips after applying ・ No bleeding after 3 hours (makeup persistence)

And in the average score given by 20 people,
A: 4.0 to 3.5 or more B: Less than 3.5 to 2.5 or more Δ: Less than 2.5 to 1.5 or more x: Judged according to criteria of less than 1.5.

From the results shown in Table 1, the oily solid cosmetic of the present invention exhibited excellent effects in all of the properties of shape retention, gloss, smoothness, moist feeling, and makeup sustainability. On the other hand, the oil-based solid cosmetic of Comparative Example, which is different from the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention in any requirement, has inferior properties in any of these performances.

The oily solid cosmetic of the present invention can be used particularly suitably for lip cosmetics such as lipsticks, glosses, and lip balms, and also used for other makeup cosmetics such as foundations and eye shadows. can do.

Claims (3)

Containing the following components (A) to ( F ) ,
The compounding amount of the component (A) is 3 to 15% by weight in the total components of the cosmetic,
The blending amount of the component (B) is 5 to 20% by weight in the total components of the cosmetic,
The oily solid cosmetic , wherein the blending amount of the component (D) is 5 to 20% by mass in the total ingredients of the cosmetic.
Acrylic-silicone graft copolymer (A)
Vaseline (B)
Semisolid phytosterol ester (C) selected from the group consisting of phytosteryl oleate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (phytosteryl / behenyl / 2-octyldodecyl), macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl (C)
Methylphenylpolysiloxane (D)
One or more highly polar ester oils selected from diisostearyl malate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, hydrogenated isostearic acid castor oil, octyldodecyl lactate (E)
Wax (F) 3-15% by mass of acrylic-silicone graft copolymer (A), 5-20% by mass of petrolatum (B), 5-20% by mass of semi-solid phytosterol ester (C), methylphenylpolysiloxane ( The oily solid cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein 5 to 20% by mass of D) is blended. 3. The oily solid cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of the acrylic-silicone graft copolymer (A) to the highly polar ester oil (E) is from 1: 3 to 1: 5.