CN115154364A - Transfer-resistant anti-pollution bright lipstick and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Transfer-resistant anti-pollution bright lipstick and manufacturing method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN115154364A
CN115154364A CN202210857883.2A CN202210857883A CN115154364A CN 115154364 A CN115154364 A CN 115154364A CN 202210857883 A CN202210857883 A CN 202210857883A CN 115154364 A CN115154364 A CN 115154364A
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oil
hydrogenated castor
castor oil
lipstick
octyldodecanol
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陈建锋
郭延河
王静
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Zhongshan Meiyuan Cosmetics Co ltd
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Zhongshan Meiyuan Cosmetics Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06Lipsticks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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Abstract

The invention aims to provide an anti-transfer anti-pollution bright lipstick for solving the problems of easy halation and no makeup and over-soft paste and a manufacturing method thereof. The transfer-resistant anti-pollution bright lipstick comprises the following components in percentage by weight: synthetic waxes, sunflower wax, octyldodecanol stearoyloxystearate, hydrogenated polydecene, sunflower seed oil, macadamia nut oil acetate, octyldodecanol, VP/hexadecene copolymer, VP/eicosene copolymer, jojoba ester, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, rosehip oil, hydrogenated castor oil laurate, CI19140, CI77891, hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate, CI19850, CI15985, CI42090, lime ester, ethylhexyl glycerol, octyl glycol. The manufacturing method comprises the following steps of grinding the color paste, preparing the lipstick base material, mixing the color paste and the lipstick base material and adding various auxiliary materials. The invention is applied to the technical field of cosmetics.

Description

Transfer-resistant anti-pollution bright lipstick and manufacturing method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to an anti-transfer anti-pollution bright lipstick and a manufacturing method thereof.
Background
With the rapid development of modern economy, the industrialization degree is deepened, the urban air pollution is increasingly serious, the natural environment is influenced, the skin of a human body is seriously damaged, and the skin problems of dry skin, advanced aging, acne, eczema and the like are caused. All things are twosided, new user demands are brought on by air pollution, pollution-resistant cosmetics begin to enter the visual field of people, and people pay more attention to the problem of environmental pollution. Therefore, the development of anti-pollution cosmetics to protect users from air pollution is also a development opportunity of cosmetics. The lips are used as a first defense line for interaction between a human body and the environment and are easily damaged by air pollution, the common lip balm and lipstick on the market have the effects of moistening, moisturizing, repairing and the like, and the pollution-resistant products are fewer, so that the developed pollution-resistant lipstick has certain market value.
The common bright lipstick in the market mainly realizes the bright effect by using the high-refractive-index oil wax, but the use of excessive high-refractive-index grease causes the skin feel to be too sticky and greasy, can cause the lipstick body to be too soft and difficult to paint, and even can cause the problems that the lipstick is difficult to demould and the like; moreover, the common bright lipstick is easy to be tinged and easy to transfer from the skin of the lips to other surfaces, such as glass, skin, clothes and the like; the common bright lipstick not only causes unsightly stains, but also causes frequent makeup for the user. Therefore, the development of the transfer-resistant and pollution-resistant bright lipstick has certain market value.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provides the transfer-resistant pollution-resistant bright lipstick for solving the problems of easy halation and no makeup and the problem of too soft paste and the preparation method thereof.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows: the transfer-resistant anti-pollution bright lipstick comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 3% -8% of synthetic wax, 8% -15% of sunflower wax, 25% -30% of octyldodecanol stearoyloxystearate, 3% -8% of hydrogenated polydecene, 8% -13% of sunflower seed oil, 1% -3% of macadamia nut oil acetate, 3% -8% of octyldodecanol, 5% -10% of VP/hexadecene copolymer, 1% -5% of VP/eicosene copolymer, 2% -6% of jojoba ester, 1% -3% of hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, 0.5% -2% of rosehip oil, 0.5% -2% of hydrogenated castor oil laurate, CI 19140% -10%, CI 77891% -3%, 1% -3% of hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate, CI 19850% -5%, CI15985 0.5% -1.5%, CI 42090.1% -0.8%, 1% -3% of lime ester, 0.05% -0.15% of ethylhexylglycerin, and 0.5% -1.5% of caprylyl glycol.
Further, the transfer-resistant and pollution-resistant bright lipstick comprises the following components in percentage by weight: synthetic wax 4%, sunflower wax 10%, octyldodecanol stearoyloxystearate 27%, hydrogenated polydecene 5%, sunflower seed oil 10.5%, macadamia nut oil acetate 2%, octyldodecanol 5%, VP/hexadecene copolymer 7%, VP/eicosene copolymer 3%, jojoba ester 4%, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate 2%, rosehip oil 1%, hydrogenated castor oil laurate 1.1%, CI 19140%, CI 77891%, hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate 2%, CI 19850%, CI15985 1%, CI42090 0.4%, limonene 2%, ethylhexyl glycerol 0.1%, octyl glycol 0.9%.
The preparation process of transfer-resisting and pollution-resisting bright lipstick includes the following steps:
A. grinding color paste: premixing the toner and a part of octyl dodecanol stearoyl oxystearate, grinding by a three-roll grinder for 3 times to obtain uniformly mixed color paste for later use;
B. uniformly mixing synthetic wax, sunflower wax, residual octyldodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, octyldodecanol, hydrogenated polydecene, macadamia nut oil acetate, VP/hexadecene copolymer, VP/eicosene copolymer, hydrogenated castor oil laurate, hydrogenated castor oil isostearic acid and hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate at normal temperature, stirring and heating to 80-90 ℃, and melting until the mixture is clear and transparent to obtain a lipstick base material;
C. adding the color paste into the prepared lipstick base material, and uniformly stirring;
D. adding jojoba ester and sunflower seed oil into the mixture, stirring, heating to 70-80 deg.C, melting, and stirring;
E. cooling the mixture to 40-50 deg.C, adding green lemon fat, rose hip oil, octyl glycol and ethylhexyl glycerin, and stirring;
F. and E, heating the mixture obtained in the step E to be melted, defoaming in a vacuum defoaming machine, filling the paste into a bright lipstick mold, and cooling to room temperature to obtain a finished product.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention provides an anti-transfer anti-pollution bright lipstick and a manufacturing method thereof, wherein the anti-transfer and anti-pollution performances of the bright lipstick are improved by adopting a new generation of polymer film forming agent-octyldodecanol and VP/hexadecene copolymer, wherein the VP/hexadecene copolymer is of an amphiphilic structure, is beneficial to the dispersion of pigments and provides the effects of shining and lustrous;
2. the octyl dodecanol is mixed, so that soft skin feel and water resistance are provided after the skin care cream is used;
3. the compatibility of the octyl dodecanol and the VP/hexadecene copolymer can uniformly disperse the toner in the lipstick and provide long-acting make-up effect;
4. with the VP/eicosene copolymer, a dense film is formed to prevent toner from transferring to the surface of other objects.
Detailed Description
Example one
The transfer-resistant anti-pollution bright lipstick comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure 556912DEST_PATH_IMAGE001
the functions of the raw materials in the formula are as follows:
synthetic wax, forming agent, thickening and stabilizing lipstick system.
Sunflower wax, a forming agent, is a natural wax having the best thickening effect on grease.
Octyl dodecanol stearoyl oxystearate, toner dispersant and high refractive index grease, and has excellent toner dispersing ability.
Hydrogenated polydecene is a non-greasy grease, has a bright non-greasy skin feel and excellent toner dispersibility.
Macadamia nut oil acetate is low-viscosity moisturizing grease and has extremely high spreadability.
Octyl dodecanol: emollient, middle ductility, high polarity grease, and excellent toner wetting ability.
Hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate: emollient to increase the hardness of lipstick.
Hydrogenated castor oil isostearate: the emollient can make the lipstick feel smoother.
Hydrogenated castor oil laurate: emollient can increase gloss of lipstick after application.
Macadamia nut oil acetate: the emollient is similar to silicone oil and derivatives thereof in skin feel, is plant-derived, is non-volatile, has good matching property and compatibility with other cosmetic raw materials, and neutralizes the sticky feel of heavy grease.
Octyldodecanol, VP/hexadecene copolymer: film forming agent, dispersed toner and film forming effect.
VP/eicosene copolymer: the film forming agent synergistically enhances the film forming effect.
Jojoba esters: the emollient is a solid emollient derived from plants, has a melting point of about 60 ℃, and can greatly reduce the sweating phenomenon of lipstick; high oxidation stability, and can enhance lipstick body strength, give the lipstick luxurious skin feeling, increase water-moistening feeling, improve skin barrier function, and improve lipstick covering power and chromaticity.
Rose oil: emollient, rosa CANINA (Rosa CANINA) fruit oil, and Rosa CANINA fruit oil containing abundant unsaturated fatty acid, and can effectively maintain skin health; the natural retinoic acid can effectively reduce scars and wrinkles; has good spreadability and moistening property.
Lime grease: the product is milky white soft solid with a melting point of 40-50 ℃, is derived from lime skin oil, and is obtained by cold pressing and distillation; the limonene is contained, so that free radicals can be effectively eliminated; in aromatherapy, lime oil also has stress and anxiety relieving effects.
Octyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin: and (4) a preservative.
Example two
The transfer-resistant anti-pollution bright lipstick comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure 89393DEST_PATH_IMAGE002
EXAMPLE III
The transfer-resistant anti-pollution bright lipstick comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure 646276DEST_PATH_IMAGE003
comparison group one
The traditional lipstick comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure 382151DEST_PATH_IMAGE004
comparison group two
The traditional lipstick comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure 49893DEST_PATH_IMAGE005
1. the anti-pollution effect is mainly embodied by testing the permeability of benzopyrene; benzopyrene is an organic compound that produces pyrene and phenylene, which are present in cigarettes, wood and coal tar, and like many other contaminants, can disrupt the skin barrier function and promote skin barrier breakdown.
To explore the effect of octyldodecanol and VP/hexadecene copolymers to reduce benzopyrene on skin penetration, 9 skin explants from 3 different donors (female, 34-58 years old) were used. These explants were placed in Franz diffusion cells to gently spread octyl dodecanol and VP/hexadecene copolymer gels onto the surface of skin explants, then 125 μ L of benzopyrene was smeared onto the surface of skin samples for 24 hours, and then the transdermal permeability of benzopyrene in the stratum corneum and epidermis/dermis was determined.
Effect comparison table
Figure 453192DEST_PATH_IMAGE006
And (4) test conclusion: octyl dodecanol and VP/hexadecene copolymer were able to reduce the penetration of benzopyrene in the stratum corneum and epidermis/dermis; (1) significantly reducing the content of 42% benzopyrene in the stratum corneum; (2) Significantly reduced the 47% benzopyrene content in the epidermal/dermal layers.
After it was cooled to room temperature, the lipstick surface was observed to have no sweating phenomenon. In the efficacy evaluation, the bright lipstick is melted by touch in the process of being smeared on the skin of the lips, so that the lips are endowed with a bright effect, and are moist, full, delicate and refreshing.
2. The invention particularly selects 2 jojoba ester compounded sunflower wax, increases the paste breaking strength of the lipstick under the condition of not reducing the hardness of the lipstick, and improves the coloring degree of the lipstick. Because the lip gloss effect needs to be endowed to the bright lipstick, a large amount of grease is added, the problems that the lipstick generates sweating phenomenon, the cream body is soft and the like can be caused, a formula frame of the bright lipstick is formed by using sunflower wax and 2 jojoba esters with extremely strong thickened grease performance, and the bright lipstick has higher breaking strength of the cream body and excellent smearing effect; in the lipstick sweating test, the test conditions were that the sample was left to stand in a 45 ℃ incubator for 8 hours and then was taken out and left to stand at room temperature.
Figure 430245DEST_PATH_IMAGE007
After cooling to room temperature, no sweating phenomenon was observed on the surface of the lipstick. In the efficacy evaluation, the bright lipstick is melted by touch when being smeared on the skin of the lips, so that the lips are endowed with a bright effect, and are moist, full and delicate.
The preparation process of transfer-resisting and pollution-resisting bright lipstick includes the following steps:
A. grinding color paste: premixing the toner and a part of octyl dodecanol stearoyl oxystearate, grinding by a three-roll grinder for 3 times to obtain uniformly mixed color paste for later use;
B. uniformly mixing synthetic wax, sunflower wax, residual octyldodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, octyldodecanol, hydrogenated polydecene, macadamia nut oil acetate, VP/hexadecene copolymer, VP/eicosene copolymer, hydrogenated castor oil laurate, hydrogenated castor oil isostearic acid and hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate at normal temperature, stirring and heating to 80-90 ℃, and melting until the mixture is clear and transparent to obtain a lipstick base material;
C. adding the color paste into the prepared lipstick base material, and uniformly stirring;
D. adding jojoba ester and sunflower seed oil into the mixture, stirring, heating to 70-80 deg.C, melting, and stirring;
E. cooling the mixture to 40-50 deg.C, adding green lemon fat, rose hip oil, octyl glycol and ethylhexyl glycerin, and stirring;
F. and E, heating the mixture obtained in the step E to be melted, placing the mixture into a vacuum defoaming machine for defoaming, filling the paste into a bright lipstick mold, and cooling to room temperature to obtain a finished product.
According to the invention, a large amount of octyl dodecanol stearoyl stearate is selected as the high refractive index grease, the high refractive index grease has excellent toner dispersing capacity, and the greasy feeling of the large amount of octyl dodecanol stearoyl stearate is neutralized by the characteristics of extremely strong ductility, quick absorption by skin, no greasy feeling and the like of the macadamia nut oil acetate. The hydrogenated castor oil derivatives such as hydrogenated castor oil laurate, hydrogenated castor oil isostearic acid and hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate, which are added with castor oil as a base material, are purely natural plant materials, and the hydroxyl groups in the molecular structure make the materials have good viscosity and compatibility with toner. On the basis of keeping all the original advantages of the castor oil, the antioxidant stability is enhanced, and the hardness of the lipstick is improved. The hydrogenated castor oil derivative is high-polarity oil, has high oxidation stability, is glossy and semitransparent paste, has excellent gelling capacity (the highest hardness can be achieved by matching with candelilla wax), and improves the property that the traditional hydrogenated castor oil is easy to crystallize.
In addition, vegetable oil for deeply moistening skin is added, including sunflower seed oil, lime grease, rose hip oil, etc.
Sunflower seed oil: the emollient has high oleic acid content, strong oxidation stability, can be easily absorbed by skin, and has no greasy feeling of traditional oil.
Lime grease: sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil, and lemon (Citrus LIMON) peel oil, which are milky soft solid in appearance, have a melting point of 40-50 deg.C, are derived from lime peel oil, and are obtained by cold pressing and distilling; the composition contains limonene, so that free radicals can be effectively eliminated; caragana oil also has stress and anxiety relieving effects in aromatherapy.
Rose oil: rosa CANINA (Rosa CANINA) fruit oil containing abundant unsaturated fatty acid can effectively maintain skin health; the natural retinoic acid can effectively reduce scars and wrinkles; has good spreadability and moistening property.
It will be evident to those skilled in the art that the invention is not limited to the details of the foregoing illustrative embodiments, and that the present invention may be embodied in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or essential attributes thereof. The present embodiments are therefore to be considered in all respects as illustrative and not restrictive, the scope of the invention being indicated by the appended claims rather than by the foregoing description, and all changes which come within the meaning and range of equivalency of the claims are therefore intended to be embraced therein.
Furthermore, it should be understood that although the present description refers to embodiments, not every embodiment may contain only a single embodiment, and such description is for clarity only, and those skilled in the art should integrate the description, and the embodiments may be combined as appropriate to form other embodiments understood by those skilled in the art.

Claims (5)

1. The transfer-resistant anti-pollution bright lipstick is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight: 3% -8% synthetic wax, 8% -15% sunflower wax, 25% -30% octyldodecanol stearoyloxystearate, 3% -8% hydrogenated polydecene, 8% -13% sunflower seed oil, 1% -3% macadamia nut oil acetate, 3% -8% octyldodecanol, 5% -10% VP/hexadecene copolymer, 1% -5% VP/eicosene copolymer, 2% -6% jojoba ester, 1% -3% hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, 0.5% -2% rosehip oil, 0.5% -2% hydrogenated castor oil laurate, CI 19140% -10%, CI 77891% -3% hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate, 1% -3% CI 19850% -5%, CI 15985.5% -1.5%, CI 42090.1% -0.8%, lime grease 1% -3%, ethylhexyl glycerol 0.05% -0.15%, octyl glycol 0.5% -1.5%.
2. The transfer-resistant anti-pollution bright lipstick according to claim 1, comprising the following components in percentage by weight: synthetic wax 4%, sunflower wax 10%, octyldodecanol stearoyloxystearate 27%, hydrogenated polydecene 5%, sunflower seed oil 10.5%, macadamia nut oil acetate 2%, octyldodecanol 5%, VP/hexadecene copolymer 7%, VP/eicosene copolymer 3%, jojoba ester 4%, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate 2%, rosehip oil 1%, hydrogenated castor oil laurate 1.1%, CI 19140%, CI 77891%, hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate 2%, CI 19850%, CI 15985%, CI 42090.4%, citral 2%, ethylhexyl glycerol 0.1%, octyl glycol 0.9%.
3. A transfer and anti-smudge bright lipstick according to claim 1 wherein said transfer and anti-smudge bright lipstick comprises, in weight percent: synthetic wax 5%, sunflower wax 9%, octyldodecanol stearoyloxystearate 27%, hydrogenated polydecene 6%, sunflower seed oil 9.5%, macadamia nut oil acetate 2%, octyldodecanol 5%, VP/hexadecene copolymer 6%, VP/eicosene copolymer 4%, jojoba ester 4%, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate 2%, rosehip oil 1%, hydrogenated castor oil laurate 1.1%, CI 19140%, CI 77891%, hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate 2%, CI 19850%, CI15985 1%, CI42090 0.4%, limonene 2%, ethylhexyl glycerol 0.1%, octyl glycol 0.9%.
4. A transfer and anti-smudge bright lipstick according to claim 1 wherein said transfer and anti-smudge bright lipstick comprises, in weight percent: synthetic wax 6%, sunflower wax 8%, octyldodecanol stearoyloxystearate 27%, hydrogenated polydecene 7%, sunflower seed oil 8.5%, macadamia nut oil acetate 2%, octyldodecanol 5%, VP/hexadecene copolymer 5%, VP/eicosene copolymer 5%, jojoba ester 4%, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate 2%, rosehip oil 1%, hydrogenated castor oil laurate 1.1%, CI 19140%, CI 77891%, hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate 2%, CI 19850%, CI 15985%, CI 42090.4%, citral 2%, ethylhexyl glycerol 0.1%, octyl glycol 0.9%.
5. A method of manufacturing a transfer-resistant anti-pollution bright lipstick, the method being used for manufacturing a transfer-resistant anti-pollution bright lipstick as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that: the manufacturing method comprises the following steps:
A. grinding color paste: premixing the toner and a part of octyl dodecanol stearoyl oxystearate, grinding by a three-roll grinder for 3 times to obtain uniformly mixed color paste for later use;
B. uniformly mixing synthetic wax, sunflower wax, residual octyldodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, octyldodecanol, hydrogenated polydecene, macadamia nut oil acetate, VP/hexadecene copolymer, VP/eicosene copolymer, hydrogenated castor oil laurate, hydrogenated castor oil isostearic acid and hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate at normal temperature, stirring and heating to 80-90 ℃, and melting until the mixture is clear and transparent to obtain a lipstick base material;
C. adding the color paste into the prepared lipstick base material, and uniformly stirring;
D. adding jojoba ester and sunflower seed oil into the mixture, stirring, heating to 70-80 deg.C, melting, and stirring;
E. cooling the mixture to 40-50 deg.C, adding green lemon fat, rose hip oil, octyl glycol and ethylhexyl glycerin, and stirring;
F. and E, heating the mixture obtained in the step E to be melted, defoaming in a vacuum defoaming machine, filling the paste into a bright lipstick mold, and cooling to room temperature to obtain a finished product.
CN202210857883.2A 2022-07-21 2022-07-21 Transfer-resistant anti-pollution bright lipstick and manufacturing method thereof Pending CN115154364A (en)

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爱马仕香水公司: "爱马仕唇妆系列星光唇膏 国妆网备进字(沪)2020004566", pages 358 - 359, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://hzpba.nmpa.gov.cn/jkcx/chakanjk.html?prodId=1104431420224307200&gb=J> *

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