JP2009185070A - Oily solid cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an oily solid cosmetic which has excellent practical properties such as a hydration property, a shape-retaining property, a sweating-blocking property, as well as "spread", "lubriciousness", "fit", "gloss" and "moisture" in application. <P>SOLUTION: The oily solid cosmetic is characterized by including (a) an oligomer of a hardened castor oil and a dimer acid, with a number average molecular weight of 2,000-7,000, a number of hydroxyl group of 40-90, and a viscosity of 1,000-5,000 (mPa s, 60°C); (b) a microcrystalline wax; (c) a polyethylene wax and/or ceresin; (d) a hydroxy compound having at least one hydroxyl group; and (e) a liquid ester oil with an IOB value of 0.1-0.4. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2009,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to oily solid cosmetics such as lip gloss, lip balm, lipstick, foundation, cheek red, and more specifically, water retention characteristics, shape retention characteristics, antiperspirant characteristics, and `` Nobi '', `` slip '' during application, The present invention relates to an oily solid cosmetic excellent in practical properties such as “tsuke”, “glossy”, and “moist feeling”.

  There are many people who complain of dry symptoms such as “drinking” and “cracking” because the lips have no sebaceous glands compared to the skin, the stratum corneum is thin, and the water evaporation rate is fast. Thus, there are known methods for protecting the lips, such as covering the lip surface with an oil-based film having excellent hygroscopicity or water retention for the purpose of preventing moisture transpiration and keeping the lips moist. Moreover, the composition for lipsticks containing liquid oil with high water retention, such as ester oil of glycerol and diglycerol and isostearic acid, is proposed.

For example, a stick-shaped lipstick that has excellent shape-retaining properties such as 12% microcrystalline wax (melting point: 95 ° C.) and 52% diglyceryl diisostearate, and a feeling of use such as “nobi” and “smoothness” at the time of application. Has been proposed. (For example, refer to Patent Document 1.)
Further, it contains polyethylene wax (average molecular weight 300 to 700) and liquid oil (glyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl triisostearate) having one —OH group in the structure, and has color developing properties, “nobi”, “shiny” A composition for lipsticks that is excellent in “holding makeup” and the like has been proposed. (For example, see Patent Document 2.)

However, these are especially about the shape retention characteristics at high temperature (35 ° C), as well as antiperspirant characteristics, water retention characteristics, and "nodding", "slip", "stickiness", "glossy", and "moist" when applied. It was not satisfied with all the characteristics such as practical characteristics.
For sticky oily cosmetics such as lipsticks, increasing the solidifying agent content and increasing the hardness in order to improve the shape retention characteristics and increase the breakage strength, "Nobi", "Slip", " ”,“ Moist feeling ”and other practical characteristics are inferior. Therefore, there has been a demand for stick-shaped cosmetics that are excellent in both shape retention characteristics and practical characteristics.

  In view of the above circumstances, the present applicant manufactured an oligomer (number average molecular weight 2000 to 8000) of hydrogenated castor oil and dimer acid. Cosmetics such as lip balm, foundation, shampoo, etc. contained in this product have moderate oiliness, tackiness, emollient, etc., and are excellent in practical properties, storage stability, and skin safety. And filed this invention on March 28, 2003. (See Patent Document 3)

JP-A-3-63206 JP 2001-158718 A JP 2003-238332 A

  As described above, the problems to be solved include water retention characteristics, shape retention characteristics, antiperspirant characteristics, and practical characteristics such as “navi”, “slip”, “tack”, “glossy”, and “moist feeling” during application. It is to provide an oily solid cosmetic excellent in the quality.

  As a result of intensive research on the useful properties of the above-mentioned oligomers of hydrogenated castor oil and dimer acid (designated name: dimer dilinoleic acid hydrogenated castor oil, abbreviated as Risocasta DA), Stick-like oily solid cosmetics such as lip gloss, lip balm, lipstick, blusher, foundation, etc. that contain DA, etc. are (i) water retention characteristics that improve dry symptoms of lips or skin, (b) low temperature (5 ° C) ) To high temperature (35 ° C.) with little change in hardness, moderate shape, heat resistance and break strength, (c) anti-perspiration properties that suppress droplets deposited on the surface of the stick, and (d) ) The present invention has been completed by finding that it has excellent practical characteristics.

That is, the present invention
1. (A) oligomer number average molecular weight of hydrogenated castor oil and dimer acid; 2000-7000, hydroxyl value: 40-90, viscosity; 1000-5000 (mPa · s, 60 ° C.), (b) microcrystalline wax , (C) polyethylene wax and / or ceresin, (d) a hydroxy compound having at least one hydroxyl group, and (e) a liquid ester oil having an IOB value of 0.1 to 0.4. An oily solid cosmetic.
2. Further, the melting point of the component (b) is 70 to 85 ° C., the melting point of the polyethylene wax of the component (c) is 80 to 105 ° C., the melting point of ceresin is 70 to 80 ° C., the hydroxyl value of the component (d) is 50 to 185, (E) The oil-based solid cosmetic according to 1, wherein the component has a viscosity of 10 to 180 (mPa · s, 25 ° C.).
3. Furthermore, the component (a) is 3 to 25% by mass, the component (b) is 3 to 12% by mass, the component (c) is 6 to 12% by mass, the component (d) is 15 to 35% by mass, (E) The oily solid cosmetic according to 1 or 2, containing 35 to 55% by mass of the component.
4). Furthermore, the component (d) is glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl diisostearate, octyldodecanol, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, decyltetradecanol, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, diisostearyl malate, Is at least one of isostearic acid hydrogenated castor oil,
(E) Component is hexyldecyl ethylhexanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, triethylhexanoin, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, pentaerythrisotetraistearate The oily solid cosmetic according to any one of 1 to 3, which is at least one of lithyl, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, and triisostearin.
I will provide a.

  The present invention provides an oily solid cosmetic excellent in all of water retention characteristics, shape retention characteristics, antiperspirant characteristics, and practical characteristics.

FIG. 3 is an enlarged photograph of the optical microscope of Example 1. Fine crystals are observed. It is the figure which showed the enlarged photograph by the optical microscope of the comparative example 2. FIG. Large coarse crystals are observed.

JP-A 2003-238332 describes the production method and various characteristics of lysocaster DA as component (a) utilized in the present invention. In the present invention, two types of lysocaster DA-L having a low viscosity and lysocaster DA-H having a high viscosity are applied. (High alcohol industry)
Risocasta DA-L (abbreviated as DA-L) hydroxyl value; 70 to 90, viscosity; 1000 to less than 2500 (60 ° C.)
Risocasta DA-H (abbreviated as DA-H) hydroxyl value; less than 40 to 70, viscosity; 2500 to 5000 (60 ° C.)
The content in the solid cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 3 to 25% by mass (hereinafter abbreviated as%), and if it is less than 3%, it is inferior in water-holding properties and practical properties ("moist feeling"), 25% Beyond this, a “sticky feeling” occurs.

  The microcrystalline wax as component (b) preferably has a melting point of 70 to 85 ° C. Examples include commercially available purified microcrystalline wax (Nikko Rica Co., Ltd.), Himic 1045 (Nippon Seiki Co., Ltd.), and Himic 1980 (Nippon Seiki Co., Ltd.). The content is preferably 3 to 12%. If it is less than 3%, the effect of inhibiting crystal formation is poor, the break strength is low, and the shape retention property is poor. On the other hand, if it exceeds 12%, the practical characteristics are inferior, and “nobi” and “slip” become heavy.

The ceresin component (c) preferably has a melting point of 70 to 80 ° C. Examples include ceresin SP1020 (Ina Trading Company) and ceresin B (Nikko Rica Co., Ltd.).
The polyethylene wax as component (c) preferably has a melting point of 85 to 105 ° C. Examples thereof include polywax 500 (Toyo Petrolite), polywax 655 (Toyo Petrolite), and polywax 725 (Toyo Petrolite).

  The content of the component (c) is preferably 6 to 12% in terms of the total amount of ceresin and polyethylene wax. Furthermore, the content ratio of ceresin and polyethylene wax is preferably 1: 0.5 to 1: 2.5. Furthermore, when two kinds of solidifying agents, microcrystalline wax and ceresin or polyethylene wax, are used, the microcrystalline wax is preferably 7 to 12%, the ceresin or polyethylene wax is preferably 6 to 12%, and the content ratio is microscopic. Crystalline wax: (ceresin or polyethylene) = 1: 0.5 to 1: 2.5 is preferred.

  The hardness, break strength, and shape retention characteristics of the oily solid cosmetic are mainly affected by the melting point and content of these components (c). It is obvious that these components (b) and (c) are hydrocarbon solidifying agents and have similar compatibility with other liquid oil agents. The molecular structure of microcrystalline wax is branched, ceresin is linear, and polyethylene wax is branched and long-chain. Therefore, the dissolved products with liquid oils have different crystal structures (gel structures) and their functions. It was also confirmed from the test examples described later that the oil also affects oily solid cosmetics.

  The outline is as follows: (a) Microcrystalline wax suppresses the crystallization of other solidifying agents, imparts the flexibility (stickiness) of solid cosmetics, and improves antiperspirant properties and breakage strength. (B) Ceresin wax is excellent in crystallinity and increases the hardness of solid cosmetics. (C) Polyethylene wax, like ceresin, has crystallinity and has the property of increasing hardness. Compared with ceresin, it has moderate compatibility with other liquid ester oils and hydroxy compounds, and also has a function to increase hardness by forming a good crystalline state even with solids such as squalane and polyisobutene with 0 IOB value. It was recognized that (D) Furthermore, solids such as mixtures of these microcrystalline wax, ceresin and polyethylene wax with liquid ester oils and hydroxy compounds form a dense crystal structure (gel structure) due to the synergistic action of the individual crystals. In addition, it was confirmed that the shape retention characteristics and antiperspirant characteristics having heat resistance of hardness (less change in hardness at 5 ° C., 25 ° C. and 35 ° C.), breakage strength, and the like are improved.

  The content ratio of the microcrystalline wax, ceresin and polyethylene wax in the oily solid cosmetic of the present invention is in the range of 1.0: 0.2: 0.3 to 1.0: 2.0: 2.5. Further preferred.

  (D) As for the hydroxy compound which has at least one hydroxyl group of a component, what was described in Table 3 except the said (a) component is preferable, and content is 15 to 35%. If it is less than 15%, the shape retention and antiperspirant properties are inferior, and if it exceeds 35%, “stickiness” occurs and the practical properties are inferior.

  As the liquid ester oil having an IOB value of 0.1 to 0.4 of the component (e), those listed in Table 4 are preferable. These liquid oils have a function as a phase solvent or a dispersant and have an action of producing a uniform solid cosmetic. The content is preferably 35 to 55%, more preferably 40 to 50%. If the content is less than 35%, the hardness is high and the practical properties are inferior, and if it exceeds 55%, it becomes light and the shape retention properties are inferior. In addition, the viscosity of these liquid ester oils is (i) less than 30 mPa · s (25 ° C), (b) 30-40 mPa · s (25 ° C), and (c) 40 mPa · s (25 ° C). When the oil-based solid cosmetic composition of the present invention is applied to the liquid ester oil having an intermediate viscosity of (b), two types of low and high viscosities of (a) and (c) are applied. It has been found that applying a plurality of liquid ester oils having a viscosity of 20 to 90 mPa · s (25 ° C.) in the above mixture improves the “slip” characteristics and is more preferable.

In the oily solid cosmetic of the present invention, components other than the components described in the components (a) to (e) are generally used within the range of achieving the object of the present invention. Is possible. Examples thereof include vegetable oils such as castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, medofoam oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, hydrocarbon oils such as squalane and hydrogenated polyisobutene, and silicone oil. Moreover, the lip balm described in Examples 1 to 23 below is used as a base for oily solid cosmetics.
For example, by containing these lip balm bases and coloring materials usually used in various makeup cosmetics such as pigments, coloring pigments, extenders and pearls, oily solid makeup such as lipsticks, foundations and cheeks It is possible to prepare the material. Furthermore, it is also possible to contain antioxidants, antiseptics, ultraviolet absorbers, fragrances, cooling agents, flame retardants, organic powders, purified water, etc. that are usually used.

  The oil-based solid cosmetics of the present invention are: (b) a product in which an Ojib mold-molded stick is inserted into a tray of a feeding container (ordinary lipstick container), and (b) a solution of the solid cosmetic is directly injected into the feeding container. Although it is mainly used as a stick-type solid cosmetic such as a cooled product, it can also be applied to (c) a product in which a solution of the solid cosmetic is poured directly into a storage plate or a storage plate of a pallet and cooled.

1. Sample Preparation Method (1) Sample Preparation Method for Test Example (b), (c) Component solidifying agent, (a) component, (d) component, (e) component liquid oil used in the present invention The solids were prepared and evaluated for hardness, sweating amount, crystal state, etc., and are shown in Tables 6-9. A predetermined amount of the raw material component was heated to 95 to 105 ° C. and uniformly dissolved, then poured into a container, and cooled with cold water at 5 to 10 ° C. to prepare a solid sample. In addition, content in the liquid oil agent of a solidifying agent shall be 5-20%, and the component was adjusted so that the hardness of a solid substance might become the range of 0.2N-0.7N (25 degreeC).
(2) Preparation method of samples of Examples and Comparative Examples (a) A predetermined amount of raw material components are heated and dissolved uniformly as in (1) above, poured into a metal mold and poured into cold water at 5 to 10 ° C. After cooling to 25 ° C., a sample which was an ogive solid (stick) was prepared. This stick was inserted into a saucer of a normal lipstick container and fixed.
(B) A predetermined amount of raw material components were heated in the same manner and dissolved uniformly, and the solution was poured directly into a feeding container and cooled to 25 ° C. with cold air of 5 to 10 ° C.

2. Evaluation Method of Various Properties Samples of test examples, examples and comparative examples were measured or observed by the following methods and evaluated.
(1) Water retention characteristics 10 g of liquid oil, samples such as Examples (35 ° C.) were weighed in a container kept at 35 ° C. Purified water at 35 ° C. was added dropwise thereto and stirred and kneaded. When the water could not be uniformly mixed, the process was terminated. After storing at 25 ° C. for 24 hours, the ratio between the measured water increase amount and the sample weight at the start was calculated as the water retention amount (%), and the water retention amount was evaluated. The evaluation results are indicated by “◎” when the water holding amount is 80% or more, “◯” when the water holding amount is 60% or more and less than 80%, and “△” when the water holding amount is less than 60%. Table 5 shows the water content of the single raw material.

(2) Shape retention characteristics (A) Hardness (Penetration hardness)
A sample such as a solid was stored at 25 ° C. for 12 hours, and then measured using a hardness meter EZ-Test-20N (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation) (25 ° C.). The stress value (N) at a needle penetration depth of 10 mm was measured under conditions of a needle diameter of 1.0 mmφ and a test speed of 10 mm / min, and the maximum value was taken as hardness.
(B) Measured with a hardness meter used for measuring the breaking strength (a). An Ojib-shaped stick (diameter: 12.5 mm) molded with a mold was inserted into a tray of a feeding container (ordinary lipstick container) and stored at 25 ° C. for 12 hours or more. The stick container was fixed horizontally, and the load was placed under the conditions of a stick temperature of 25 ° C. and a speed of 50 mm / min at the position of 10 mm from the end of the tray of the stake where the load jig was fed out and aligned with the side of the stick. The stress (N) at breakage was measured, and the maximum value was taken as the breakage strength. In addition, in the commercial product, two kinds of sticks of an Ojib type and a direct filling type were applied. Those with break strength (25 ° C.) of 2.0N to less than 2.5N are “O”, those with 1.8N to less than 2.0N, and those with 2.5N to less than 2.8N are “Δ” and less than 1.8N. The evaluation result was displayed as “×” for 2.8N or more.

(3) Antiperspirant properties (observation at elevated temperature (45 ° C))
The sample was stored in a thermostatic chamber at 45 ° C. for 15 to 60 minutes, and droplets deposited on the solid surface were observed. The evaluation results were displayed as “◯” where no droplet was observed, “Δ” where it was slightly recognized, and “X” where many droplets were clearly recognized.

(4) Observation of crystal state The crystal state was magnified 1000 times using an optical microscope BX-51 (manufactured by Olympus Optical Co., Ltd.) together with the evaluation of visual observation of the appearance.
Compared with a conventional polarizing microscope, the crystal state can be clearly observed.

(5) Practical characteristics Practical tests for one week to one month conducted by 20 panel member girls, "hardness", "nobori", "slip", "tack", "glossy", "moist" It was carried out about the characteristics such as. Subsequent evaluation points were counted, and the number of people judged to be good was “◎” for 16 or more, “◯” for 12-15, “△” for 6-11, “x” for 5 or less. .

表７に記載のごとく、固形化剤ＭＷ−ＮＲと（ａ）、（ｄ）、（ｅ）成分との固形物は、硬度、発汗量、結晶状態の良いものも見られる。全般に３５℃での硬度が極端に低く形状保持特性に劣るものであった。 [Test example]
In Tables 7 to 10, solid materials (5% to 20%) and solids (a), (d), and (e) components were prepared, hardness (25 ° C.), sweating amount (45 ° C.), The result of evaluating the crystal state is described.

As shown in Table 7, solids of the solidifying agent MW-NR and the components (a), (d), and (e) can be seen to have good hardness, sweating amount, and crystalline state. In general, the hardness at 35 ° C. was extremely low and the shape retention characteristics were inferior.

表８に記載のごとく、固形化剤ＣＥ−１０２０と（ａ）、（ｄ）、（ｅ）成分との固形物は高い硬度を示す。

As shown in Table 8, solids of the solidifying agent CE-1020 and the components (a), (d), and (e) exhibit high hardness.

  As shown in Table 9, the solids of the solidifying agent PE-500 and the components (a), (d), and (e) show higher hardness than the evaluation results in Tables 7 and 8. Moreover, it was excellent in compatibility with the component (d) and the component (e), and a good crystal state was observed.

表１０のごとく、表７〜表９の各々の固形物の評価結果と比較して結晶状態は良好となり、特に５℃〜３５℃における硬度の変化が少なく耐熱性に優れていることが明らかである。

As shown in Table 10, it is clear that the crystalline state is good compared to the evaluation results of the solid materials in Tables 7 to 9, and particularly the heat resistance is small with little change in hardness at 5 ° C to 35 ° C. is there.

Examples 1 to 23, Comparative Examples 1 to 5 Lip Balms Lip creams were prepared with the component compositions described in Tables 11 to 14, and the evaluation results are listed in the lower column.

  Water content (%, 35 ° C.), heat resistance: (hardness at 5 ° C./hardness at 35 ° C.), break strength (N, 25 ° C.) The evaluation results are summarized in Table 15. (B) Water retention characteristics are calculated from the amount of water retained (%). (B) Hardness is the ratio of hardness at 35 ° C and 5 ° C as a measure of heat resistance. (C) Break strength is an example of measurement results. Was described respectively.

表１１〜表１４及び表１５より、本発明のリップクリームは抱水特性、硬度の耐熱性、折損強度などの形状保持特性及び実用特性の全てに優れていることが認められる。

From Tables 11 to 14 and Table 15, it is recognized that the lip balm of the present invention is excellent in all of the water retention characteristics, the heat resistance of hardness, the shape retention characteristics such as break strength, and the practical characteristics.

In particular, the lip balm of the example containing 10 to 25% of DA as the component (a) has excellent water retention characteristics and heat resistance, and is excellent in “gloss” and “moist feeling” in practical tests.
Moreover, the content ratio of MW, CE, and PE of the components (b) and (c) which are solidifying agents is 1.0: 0.2: 0.3 to 1.0: 2.0: 2.5. In the case, the crystalline state becomes uniform and dense, and when the component (d) is 20 to 35% and the component (e) is 40 to 50%, the shape retention property, antiperspirant property, and practical properties are excellent. Is clear.

As described in Table 16, lipsticks were prepared by using the lip balms of Examples 1 to 4 as a base and further adding a coloring material. In Examples 24 to 27, the lip balm bases of Examples 1 to 4 were applied to the components other than the pigment. From Table 16, it is clear that all the characteristics are excellent.

Claims (4)

  (A) oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil and dimer acid (number average molecular weight; 2000 to 7000, hydroxyl value; 40 to 90, viscosity; 1000 to 5000 (mPa · s, 60 ° C.)), and (b) microcrystalline wax And (c) a polyethylene wax and / or ceresin, (d) a hydroxy compound having at least one hydroxyl group, and (e) a liquid ester oil having an IOB value of 0.1 to 0.4. A characteristic oily solid cosmetic.   The melting point of component (b) is 70 to 85 ° C., the melting point of polyethylene wax of component (c) is 80 to 105 ° C., the melting point of ceresin is 70 to 90 ° C., the hydroxyl value of component (d) is 50 to 185, (e The oily solid cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component has a viscosity of 10 to 180 (mPa · s, 25 ° C.).   The component (a) is 3 to 25% by mass, the component (b) is 3 to 12% by mass, the component (c) is 6 to 12% by mass, the component (d) is 15 to 35% by mass, and (e) The oily solid cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, comprising 35 to 55% by mass of a component. (D) component is hydrogenated castor oil isostearic acid, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, diisostearyl malate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecanol, decyl At least one of tetradecanol,
(E) Component is hexyldecyl ethylhexanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, triethylhexanoin, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, pentaerythrisotetraistearate The oily solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is at least one of lithyl, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, and triisostearin.

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