JP3557542B2 - Oily solid cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

注１：平均粒径２００μの板状ラメ剤（ダイヤケムコ社製：ＤＣグリッターシルバーＣ）
【００２２】
（製法）
Ａ．（１）〜（９）を加熱溶解する。
Ｂ．Ａに（１０）〜（２５）を均一に混合する。
Ｃ．Ｂを加熱溶解した後、脱気する。
Ｄ．Ｃを９０℃にて加熱溶融し、金皿に流し込み、冷却して油性固型アイシャドウを得た。
【００２３】
（評価方法及び判定基準）
官能評価実施例１及び比較例１〜６の各固型アイシャドウを試料として、専門パネル２０名による使用テストを行い、使用した時の、肌上で軽いのび広がり、ベタつかずサラサラした仕上がり感、エモリエント感、化粧持続性について評価を行い、下記評価基準Ａによる平均点に基づいて下記判定基準Ａにて判定した。
（評価基準Ａ）
５点：非常に良好
４点：良好
３点：普通
２点：やや不良
１点：不良
（判定基準Ａ）
◎：４．０点以上
○：３．０以上４．０未満
△：２．０以上３．０未満
×：１．０以上２．０未満
【００２４】
（溶融充填性評価）
実施例１及び比較例１〜６の各固型アイシャドウを、９０℃に加熱溶融し金皿に流し込む時の、金皿への広がり、表面の平滑性、均一性のレベルを下記判定基準Ｂで評価した。
（判定基準Ｂ）
◎：非常に良好
○：良好
△：やや悪い
×：非常に悪い
【００２５】
表１の評価結果から明らかのように、本発明の実施例１の油性固型アイシャドウは比較例１〜６に比較して、肌上で軽いのび広がり、ベタつかずサラサラした仕上がり感、エモリエント感、化粧持続性、及び溶融充填性の各項目において優れたものであった。
【００２６】
【発明の効果】
本発明の油性固型化粧料は、エモリエント感が高く、粉っぽさが無く、化粧持続性に優れる等の品質を有しながら、且つ、肌上で軽いのび広がり、ベタつかずサラサラした仕上がり感を有し、且つ溶融充填性にも優れたものである。[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to an oily solid cosmetic, and more particularly, has a high emollient feeling, has no powderiness, and has quality such as excellent persistence of makeup, and is lightly spread on the skin. The present invention relates to an oily solid cosmetic which has a smooth finish without stickiness and is excellent in melt filling property.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, oil-based solid cosmetics are dosage forms used for products such as eye shadows, cheeks, foundations, and lipsticks.After mixing an oil containing solid oil and powder, the mixture is heated to a temperature equal to or higher than the melting point of the solid oil. It is manufactured by melting, pouring directly into a container or dish, and cooling and solidifying. These products have a high emollient feeling, a finished feeling without powderiness, and an excellent persistence of makeup. However, on the other hand, since the amount of the oil agent is large, the feeling of use such as stickiness and spreading weight during use was inferior to solid powder cosmetics. For this reason, oily agents having low viscosity and light feeling of use and spherical and plate-like powders have been blended with oily solid cosmetics for the purpose of giving lightness of spreading, eliminating stickiness of oily agents, and imparting a smooth finish. Also, due to the simplicity of the melt pouring and filling, the containers to be filled have various shapes and materials different from those of the conventional press molding.
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
In order to provide an oily solid cosmetic with the advantages of solid powder cosmetics, such as light spreadability and a powdery feel such as a smooth finish, it is necessary to mix plate-like powder or spherical powder. However, when the blending amount of these powders is large, the viscosity at the time of heating and melting is increased and the fluidity is significantly reduced, so that it is difficult to pour into the container or the dish, or the cosmetic does not spread in the container or the dish, In some cases, the appearance quality may be significantly reduced, such as uneven surface or wrinkles, or depending on the shape of the container or dish, which may cause a gap at the end of the container. Conventionally, in order to solve this drawback, measures have been taken such as increasing the melting temperature or heating the surface of the filled article with a heater after filling to make it smooth. However, in this method, melting or filling at a high temperature for a long time or heating the heater for a long time not only causes deterioration of the bulk itself, but also causes deformation due to heat in the case of a resin container. was there. Also, if the mixing amount of the plate-like powder or the spherical powder is too large, even if the dissolution temperature is increased, the viscosity is not lowered and the effect cannot be obtained. For this reason, it has been the current practice to reduce the mixing amount of the plate-like powder or the spherical powder to lower the viscosity at the time of melting, or to change the shape and material of the container. Therefore, even if the compounding amount of the plate-like powder or the spherical powder is increased, the emollient feeling is high, there is no powderiness, and the qualities such as excellent in persistence of makeup are obtained, and the skin is lightly spread on the skin. It has been desired to develop an oil-based solid cosmetic cosmetic which has a spread, smooth and smooth finish, and has an excellent melt filling property.
[0004]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present inventors have conducted intensive studies on the above-mentioned situation, and as a result, by mixing a specific amount of a phosphate-based surfactant and a specific plate-like powder, the emollient feeling is high, there is no powderiness, and the cosmetic It has been found that oil-based solid cosmetics that have excellent quality such as excellent persistence, light spread over the skin, have a smooth finish without stickiness, and have excellent melt filling properties can be obtained. Completed the invention. Furthermore, it has been found that the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention, in which a specific spherical powder is mixed in a specific amount, is more excellent in the effects of the present invention.
That is, the present invention provides the following components (a) to (c) :
(A) 0.01 to 3% by weight of polyoxyethylene-added alkyl ether phosphoric acid or a salt thereof
(B) 5 to 40% by weight of plate-like powder having an average particle size of 1 to 400 µ
(C) 1 to 30% by weight of spherical powder having an average particle size of 3 to 50μ
An oily solid cosmetic which is characterized by containing a.
[0005]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. As the polyoxyethylene-added alkyl ether phosphate or its salt in component (a) used in the present invention, positive Rie carboxymethyl polyoxyethylene lauryl ether phosphoric acid, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether phosphate, polyoxyethylene oleyl ether phosphoric acid, di polyoxyethylene cetyl ether phosphate, Tripoli polyoxyethylene lauryl ether phosphoric acid, polyoxyethylene-added alkyl ether phosphates and its sodium and di polyoxyethylene nonylphenyl ether phosphoric acid, Ru salts der such as potassium. Can be used in combination these one or two or more. Examples of commercially available products, For example, two Kkoru DDP-6 and DDP-8 (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co.), hosta Fat KW340N and KL340N (or, Hoechst Ltd.), and the like.
[0006]
The amount of the polyoxyethylene-added alkyl ether phosphoric acid of component (a) or a salt thereof in the oily solid cosmetic of the present invention depends on the shape and the amount of the powder to be compounded. In order to obtain the effect of lowering the viscosity, the content is 0.01 to 3% by weight (hereinafter simply abbreviated as "%"), preferably 0.05 to 2.0%. When the amount is less than 0.01%, the effect of lowering the viscosity at the time of melting cannot be obtained. When the amount exceeds 3%, the decorative film becomes oily, sticky, and spreads poorly. Become.
[0007]
The plate-like powder of the component (b) used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it has a plate-like shape and an average particle diameter of 1 to 400 μm. For example, mica, sericite, calcined mica, calcined mica Sites, synthetic mica, synthetic fluorophlogopite, plate-like clay minerals such as sedimentary talc, titanium mica, iron oxide treated mica, iron oxide / titanium oxide coated mica, navy blue treated mica titanium, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide coated bismuth oxychloride Pigments and ultraviolet shielding powders such as fish phosphor foil, lame agents such as polyethylene terephthalate, aluminum and epoxy resin laminated powders, silica-treated mica, polymethyl methacrylate-treated mica, polymethyl methacrylate-treated mica titanium, and plate-like titanium oxide , Platy zinc oxide, platy barium sulfate, boronitride, platy silicic anhydride, platy silicon dioxide, N-lauro Lu-L-lysine, polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon, polymethyl methacrylate, polystyrene, organic plate-like powders such as tetrafluoroethylene, and the like. One or more of these may be selected as necessary from these. Can be used. Among these, plate-like clay minerals, glitter pigments and ultraviolet shielding powders are preferred. These powders may be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the surface treatment is performed by a known method using a fluorine compound, a silicone oil agent, metal soap, a wax, an oil, a hydrocarbon, or the like. May be applied.
[0008]
The average particle size of the plate-like powder of the component (b) is from 1 to 400 µ, preferably from 5 to 300 µ, as measured by a laser diffraction type particle size distribution analyzer. If the average particle size of the plate-like powder is less than 1 μm, the spreadability becomes light, and if it exceeds 400 μm, the skin becomes rough and the texture of the decorative film becomes uneven, which is not preferable.
[0009]
The amount of the plate-shaped powder of the component (b) to be incorporated into the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention is 5 to 40%, depending on the type of the powder. If the amount of the plate-like powder is less than 5%, the decorative film becomes greasy and sticky, which is not preferable, and if it exceeds 40%, it becomes smooth and a light powdery feeling can be obtained. However, the viscosity at the time of heating and melting increases, and the melt-filling property deteriorates, which is not preferable.
[0010]
The polyoxyethylene-added alkyl ether phosphoric acid or a salt thereof of the component (a) used in the present invention can be mixed with an oil agent or a powder, and can be blended. It is also possible to formulate a part or all by surface treatment.
[0011]
As a method for surface-treating the polyoxyethylene-added alkyl ether phosphoric acid of component (a) or a salt thereof on the plate-like powder of component (b), a generally known method is used. For example, a method of adsorbing a polyoxyethylene-added alkyl ether phosphoric acid or a salt thereof on water in water and filtering, drying, and pulverizing the powder and a polyoxyethylene-added alkyl ether phosphoric acid or a salt thereof in an organic solvent. A method of dispersing, removing the solvent, drying and pulverizing, etc. may be mentioned.
[0012]
The spherical powder of the component (c) used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it has a spherical shape and an average particle diameter of 3 to 50 μm, but a spherical powder usually used for cosmetics can be used. . For example, nylon powder, polystyrene powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, polyurethane powder, silk powder, cellulose powder, silicon powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polymethyl silsesquioxane powder, polyorganosiloxane elastomer powder, polyethylene powder, poly Vinyl chloride, polypropylene powder, polyester powder, polyacrylonitrile powder, copolymer of styrene and acrylic acid, copolymer of styrene and methacrylic acid, silica, alumina, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, and the like. One or two or more of them can be selected and used as needed from among them. These powders may be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the surface treatment is performed by a known method using a fluorine compound, a silicone oil agent, metal soap, a wax, an oil, a hydrocarbon, or the like. May be applied.
[0013]
The average particle size of the component (c) spherical powder is 3 to 50 μm when measured by a laser diffraction type particle size distribution analyzer. When the average particle size is less than 3 μm, a light touch cannot be imparted to the decorative film, and when the average particle size exceeds 50 μm, the skin feels rough and is not preferable.
[0014]
The blending amount of the component (c) spherical powder in the oily solid cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 1 to 30%, more preferably 4 to 25%. When the compounding amount is in this range, the effects of the present invention such as a smooth finished feeling without stickiness and a cosmetic continuity are further improved.
[0015]
The other powder used in the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention may be any powder as long as it is generally used in cosmetics, and is not particularly limited. For example, extender pigments, inorganic white pigments, inorganic coloring pigments, organic pigments, and organic powders can be used. Specifically, talc, kaolin, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, aluminum silicate Magnesium, silicic anhydride, barium sulfate, bentonite, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, ultramarine, navy blue, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, carbon black, tar dyes and their lakes Pigment, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, methyl methacrylate powder, crystalline cellulose, starch and the like. One or more of these powders may be selected and used depending on the purpose of cosmetics and the like, and may be blended by subjecting to a known surface treatment, for example, a surface treatment with an oil agent, silicone, a fluorine-based oil agent or the like. .
[0016]
The oil component used in the present invention may be any one as long as it is generally used in cosmetics, and is not particularly limited. As the semi-solid or liquid oil, mineral oil, vegetable oil, animal oil, higher fatty acid, higher fatty acid ester, volatile oil agent, silicone oil, etc. can be used. For example, liquid paraffin, squalane, polybutene, castor oil, isopropyl myristate, palmitic acid Isopropyl, lanolin, petrolatum, olive oil, jojoba oil, macadamian nut oil, mink oil, turtle oil, almond oil, safflower oil, avocado oil, octyldodecyl myristate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, triglyceride 2-ethylhexanoate Glycerin fatty acid esters such as diglyceryl isostearate; propylene glycol fatty acid esters such as propylene glycol dicaprate; dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters; oleic acid; Silicone oils such as yl alcohol, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, fluorine oils such as perfluoropolyether, low molecular weight isoparaffinic hydrocarbon oil, low molecular weight chain dimethylpolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, Volatile oils such as low molecular weight polysiloxanes such as decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and the like. Solid oils include, for example, solid paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, beeswax, mokurou, gay wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyethylene wax, polyethylene polypropylene copolymer, cured castor Examples include oil, pentaerythritol rosin acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and the like. One or more of these oils are selected and used depending on the purpose.
[0017]
The oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention includes, in addition to the above essential components, a surfactant other than the component (a), a humectant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a chelating agent, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. A pH adjuster, a resin, an antioxidant, a fragrance, an ultraviolet absorber, a cosmetic ingredient, and the like can be appropriately compounded.
[0018]
The oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention is in a solid or semi-solid form at room temperature, and is produced by hot melt pouring and filling. In addition, examples of cosmetics that easily exert the effects of the present invention include makeup cosmetics such as lipstick, foundation, white powder, concealer, eyeshadow, blush, eyeliner, and eyebrow.
[0019]
【Example】
Next, the present invention will be further described with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
[0020]
Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 Oily solid eyeshadow An oily solid eyeshadow having the composition shown in Table 1 was prepared by the following method and, when used, spread lightly on the skin and gave a smooth, non-sticky finish. , Emollient feeling, makeup continuity, and melt-fillability were evaluated. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 1 .
[0021]
[Table 1]

Note 1: Lame agent with an average particle diameter of 200μ (Diachemco: DC Glitter Silver C)
[0022]
(Production method)
A. (1) to (9) are heated and dissolved.
B. A is uniformly mixed with (10) to (25).
C. After B is heated and dissolved, it is degassed.
D. C was heated and melted at 90 ° C., poured into a metal dish, and cooled to obtain an oily solid eye shadow.
[0023]
(Evaluation method and criteria)
Using each solid eye shadow of the sensory evaluation Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 as a sample, a use test was conducted by 20 specialized panels, and when used, lightly spread on the skin, a feeling of smooth finish without stickiness, The emollient feeling and the makeup persistence were evaluated, and judged based on the following criteria A based on the average score based on the following criteria A.
(Evaluation criteria A)
5 points: Very good 4 points: Good 3 points: Normal 2 points: Somewhat bad 1 point: Bad (Criterion A)
◎: 4.0 or more ○: 3.0 or more and less than 4.0 Δ: 2.0 or more and less than 3.0 ×: 1.0 or more and less than 2.0
(Evaluation of melt filling property)
When the solid eye shadows of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 were heated and melted at 90 ° C. and poured into a metal plate, the spread on the metal plate, the smoothness of the surface, and the level of uniformity were determined by the following criteria B. Was evaluated.
(Criterion B)
◎: very good ：: good △: slightly bad ×: very bad
As is clear from the evaluation results in Table 1, the oil-based solid eye shadow of Example 1 of the present invention spreads lightly on the skin, gives a smooth finish without embossing, and a feeling of emollient, as compared with Comparative Examples 1 to 6 . , Cosmetic persistence, and melt filling properties.
[0026]
【The invention's effect】
The oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention has a high emollient feeling, has no powderiness, and has quality such as excellent makeup persistence, and is lightly spread on the skin, and has a smooth and smooth finish. And also has excellent melt filling properties.

Claims (1)

The following components (a) to (c);
(A) 0.01 to 3% by weight of polyoxyethylene-added alkyl ether phosphoric acid or a salt thereof
(B) 5 to 40% by weight of plate-like powder having an average particle size of 1 to 400 µ
(C) 1 to 30% by weight of spherical powder having an average particle size of 3 to 50μ
An oil-based solid cosmetic comprising: