JP2665473B2 - Solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Object of the Invention [Industrial Application Field] The present invention has a novel property that it has good stability, good makeup, and has a cool feeling when applied to the skin while being solid. The present invention relates to a solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic having a comfortable use feeling.

In the present invention, the solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic refers to a solid that has no fluidity and is solidified (including a paste) in a temperature range (0 ° C. to 50 ° C.) where the cosmetic is generally used.

[Prior art] As a base type of solid cosmetics, a solid oily type obtained by solidifying an oil, a solid press type obtained by pressing a powder or a mixture of a powder and an oily agent, and the like are generally used. There are different types of cosmetics depending on the purpose and method of use. For example, a stick-type cosmetic such as a lipstick has a solid oil type,
In a foundation used for puffs and sponges, a solid press type is generally used. In recent years, lipsticks containing water have been studied and put on the market.However, it is difficult to obtain a product with good stability and good makeup. The difference from the conventional solid oil type was small. further,
In oil type products in which water and powder are blended, when the type of powder is changed, there are drawbacks such as sudden deterioration of stability and deterioration of makeup. That is, a solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic having good stability and good makeup has not been found in the prior art. In particular, when a volatile oil is used and a large amount of water is blended, it has been more difficult to solve the problems of stability such as cracks and cracks and to obtain a product having good makeup.

On the other hand, emulsified cosmetics are generally used as basic cosmetics because they can be mixed with water, a humectant and the like and have high treatment properties. In the case of the emulsification type, the content state that can be selected is a milky liquid having a fluidity or a creamy one having a low fluidity. The bottle or tube-like container is filled in a bottle-like container if it is an emulsion. For this reason, emulsified cosmetics have a high effect on the skin but are inferior in portability.

In recent years, cosmetics using volatile oils have been studied, but relatively stable emulsions and creams have been obtained. In addition to its stability, it has not been possible to solve the problems in the feel of use such as make-up and refreshing feeling.

[Problems to be Solved by the Present Invention] Therefore, a solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic which is stable and has a good feel upon use, particularly a good makeup, is not known.

In view of such circumstances, the present inventors have conducted intensive studies with the aim of obtaining a solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic having good stability and good stickiness and excellent feeling in use. The solidified water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic comprising an oily solidifying agent, a hydrophobized powder, water, and a lipophilic surfactant has extremely good stability and is applied to the skin. Occasionally, it has a good feeling of makeup and has a new feeling of use that has a "cool feeling", and at the same time, has an excellent feeling of use such as "expansion" and "freshness", and further expands the range of container forms to be filled. And found that the present invention was completed based on this finding.

Constitution of the Invention [Means for Solving the Problems] That is, the present invention contains an oil, a solid wax and / or an oil gelling agent, water, a lipophilic surfactant, and a hydrophobized powder. It is intended to provide a solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic characterized by the above.

 Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention will be described.

Examples of the oil used in the present invention include avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, versic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, Linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, eno oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, teaseed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, sinagiri oil, Japanese kiri oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, glycerin trioctanoate, glycerin triisopalmitate , Trimethylolpropane triisostearate, isopropyl myristate, glycerol tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, lanolin, liquid lanolin, liquid paraffin,
Squalene, pristane, isoparaffin, squalane, petrolatum and the like. Furthermore, dimethylpolysiloxane, dimethylcyclopolysiloxane, dialkylpolysiloxane such as diethylpolysiloxane, alkylarylpolysiloxane such as methylphenylpolysiloxane, diarylpolysiloxane, fatty acid-modified polysiloxane, higher alcohol-modified polysiloxane, amino-modified polysiloxane And silicone oils such as polyoxyalkylene-modified polysiloxanes.

The solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is appropriately selected and blended from the above oil components. The compounding amount is 5 to 85% by weight based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

In particular, if you want a product with a refreshing feel and a long lasting makeup, the following structural formula [1]
It is preferable to use the volatile silicone oil represented by [2], and its blending amount is preferably 30 to 97% by weight in the oil phase.

Solid waxes used in the present invention may be those usually used in cosmetics, such as paraffin wax, petroleum wax such as microcrystalline wax, mineral wax such as ozokerite and ceresin, carnauba wax and natural wax such as candelilla wax. Is 50 ° C. or higher, and a mixture of linear and / or branched hydrocarbons containing, as a main component, a linear hydrocarbon having 25 to 52 carbon atoms is preferable. The type of wax to be used is selected according to the type of oil used, but it is difficult to obtain good wax esters such as carnauba wax and candelilla wax by themselves, and it is difficult to obtain straight-chain and / or branched hydrocarbon-based wax esters. Mixing with wax is preferred. In addition, since hydrocarbon-based solid waxes that are generally commercially available are obtained as a mixture, they have a distribution in the number of carbon atoms, and also contain isoparaffin or naphthene. Are preferred.

Commercially available products include Boler wax 1014 (manufactured by Boler, USA) and paraffin wax 125, 130, 135, 140, 145 ゜ F
PW (series products manufactured by Nippon Oil), paraffin wax 140, 145, 150, 155 ゜ F (series products manufactured by Nippon Seiro), micro wax 155, 180 (products of Nippon Oil),
High Mic 2065 (manufactured by Nippon Seiro), Aristo wax 16
5 ゜ F (manufactured by Union Oil of the United States), OZOKERITE E-626
(Manufactured by Francesera Celesin) and the like, and those obtained by blending these waxes as main components and other waxes can also be used.

Examples of the oil gelling agent used in the present invention include condensates of benzaldehydes such as dibenzylidene sorbitol, tribenzylidene sorbitol, dibenzylidene xylitol, paramethoxybenzylidene sorbitol and a pentavalent or higher alcohol, calcium stearate, calcium palmitate, Metal soaps such as lithium ethylhexanoate, aluminum 12-hydroxystearate, dibutylamide lauroylglutamate, stearylamide lauroylglutamate, dicaproyllysine laurylamine salt, dicaproyllysine lauryl ester, dicaproyllysine lauroylphenylalanine laurylamide Derivatives of N-acylamino acids such as amides, esters, amine salts, etc., such as starch saturated fatty acid esters having an ester group substitution degree of 30% or more And dextrin fatty acid esters comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid.

In the solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, one or more of the above-mentioned solid wax and oil gelling agent are appropriately selected and blended. Among them, a mixture of linear and / or branched hydrocarbons having a carbon number of 25 to 52
Solid waxes containing as a main component are preferred. The blending amount of the solid wax and / or the oil gelling agent can be adjusted according to the desired hardness, but the ratio of the oil component: the solid wax and / or the oil gelling agent is 20: 1 to 3: 1. Preferably, it is 5 to 20% by weight of the total cosmetic.

The amount of water used in the present invention must be at least 5% by weight of the total cosmetic, and if it is less than this, a refreshing feeling cannot be expected when used. Particularly, in order to obtain a very large refreshing feeling at the time of use, it is preferable to add 10% by weight or more.

As the lipophilic surfactant used in the present invention, HLB
As long as the value (Kawakami formula) is 8 or less, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitandiolate, sorbitan sesquiolate, glyceryl monoisoate Stearate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl sesquiisostearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryldiolate, glyceryl sesquiolate, diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryldiolate, diglycerin monoisostearyl ether, diglycerin diiso Stearyl ether is preferred. The compounding amount is selected according to the amount of the aqueous phase to be emulsified, but is 0.2 to 10% by weight in the total cosmetics.
Is preferred.

As the hydrophobized powder used in the present invention, powder obtained by treating a powder usually used in cosmetics by a conventionally known hydrophobizing method is used. For example, in the case of inorganic powder, talc, kaolin, mica, sericite, silica, magnesium silicate, calcium silicate, aluminum silicate, clay mineral powder such as bentonite and montmorillonite, alumina, barium sulfate, dicalcium phosphate,
Calcium carbonate, titanium oxide, fine particle titanium oxide having a particle diameter of 0.1 μm or less, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, hydroxyapatite, iron oxide, iron titanate, ultramarine, navy blue, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt oxide, cobalt titanate, And pearl pigments such as titanium oxide coated mica.

Organic powders include polyester, polyethylene, polystyrene, methyl methacrylate resin, cellulose, 12 nylon, 6 nylon, copolymers of styrene and acrylic acid, polypropylene, vinyl chloride, tetrafluoroethylene, boron nitride, fish scale foil, red No. 3, red 4
No., a lake of tar dyes such as Red No. 203,
Lakes of natural pigments and composite powders of inorganic and organic powders are exemplified.

In the present invention, the above-mentioned powder is used after being treated with a hydrophobizing agent. By performing the hydrophobic treatment, it is possible to improve makeup such as water resistance, sweat resistance, and sebum resistance without color separation. In particular, in the case of products in which various kinds of powders are blended, it is more important to control the dispersibility of each powder, and the dispersibility is homogenized by subjecting each powder to a hydrophobic treatment, so that color separation and the like hardly occur. , The stability is improved. In addition, since the powder is hard to wet, the makeup stickiness is improved. Examples of the hydrophobizing agent include dextrin fatty acid esters, metal soaps, silicone compounds, and organic compounds such as dibenzylidene sorbitol. The method of hydrophobizing using these hydrophobizing agents is described in, for example,
No. 62-205165, No. 45-15394, No. 61-584
No. 99, JP-B-56-43264, JP-A-56-16404, JP-A-59-76009, JP-A-60-163973, JP-A-63
Examples are the methods described in JP-A-1113081 and JP-A-63-113082.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, any one or more of the above-mentioned hydrophobized powders are selected and used. The compounding amount is 5 to 50% by weight based on the total amount of the cosmetic in terms of the total amount of powder, and particularly preferably 15 to 40% by weight when used as a foundation. If the total amount of the powder is less than 5% by weight, it is not preferable because it is too thin and the makeup effect is not felt. On the other hand, if it exceeds 50% by weight, it is not preferable because lightness cannot be obtained.

In the solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the essential components described above, components commonly used in cosmetics can be blended as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. For example, sodium hyaluronate, mucopolysaccharides such as sodium chondroitin sulfate, amino acids and salts thereof, citric acid,
Organic acids and salts thereof such as oxyacids and salts thereof such as malic acid and lactic acid, surfactants such as cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants and nonionic surfactants, and drugs such as vitamin E and vitamin E acetate , Astringents, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters such as dibasic sodium phosphate, clay minerals, thickeners, ultraviolet absorbers and the like.
Above all, it is preferable to mix amino acids, mucopolysaccharides, organic acids and salts thereof in order to improve stability.

[Examples] The effects of the present invention will be described below with reference to examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto. In addition, the compounding amount in an Example shows all weight%.

[Example 1] (1) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 38.0 (2) Aristo wax 165 ° F 10.0 (3) Sorbitan diisostearate 2.0 (4) Siliconized powder (A) 30.0 (5) Ion-exchanged water balance ( 6) Appropriate amount of preservative (7) Appropriate amount of fragrance (Preparation method) After heating (1) to (3) and (7) at 80 ° C and dissolving, add (4) and disperse at 80 ° C with a homogenizer. Further, the mixture of (5) and (6), previously heated to 80 ° C., is added and emulsified. Thereafter, the mixture was filled in a container and cooled to room temperature to obtain a desired solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic.

The silicone-treated powder (A) used here was prepared according to the methods described in JP-A-63-113081 and JP-A-63-113082 in accordance with the methods described in Mica 3.65 parts, titanium oxide 5.0 parts, iron oxide red
After mixing 0.25 part, iron oxide yellow 1.0 part, iron oxide black 0.1 part,
It was obtained by reacting tetramethyltetrahydrogencyclosiloxane followed by addition reaction with tetradecene.

[Comparative Example 1] (1) decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 38.0 (2) carnauba wax 10.0 (3) sorbitan diisostearate 2.0 (4) untreated powder (B) 30.0 (5) ion-exchanged water balance (6) preservative Appropriate amount (7) Perfume Appropriate amount (Production method) Produced by the same production method as in Example 1.

The untreated powder (B) used here was the raw material powder mixture before the treatment of the silicone-treated powder (A).

The solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetics obtained in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were filled in a glass bottle, left in a thermostat at 25 ° C. and 50 ° C. without a lid, and the weight loss and stability over time. (Cracks, cracks, separation, etc.) and usability (make-up, stretch, refreshing feeling, refreshingness) were evaluated. Table 1 shows the results. The evaluation method is as follows.

Loss over time Stability After leaving at 25 ° C and 50 ° C for 3 weeks, it is good when there is no change in state due to “crack”, “wet”, and “separation”. When it is slightly changed, it is slightly poor, and when it is changed. Was regarded as defective.

Usability Using a panel of 20 people, sensory evaluation was made of the moisturizing, spreading, refreshing feeling, and refreshing.

15 or more who answered good ○ 7 to 14 who answered good Δ 6 or less who answered good × As is clear from Table 1, the solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of Example 1 was small in weight loss due to volatilization, was stable, and had good usability.

[Example 2] (1) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 38.0 (2) Aristo wax 165 ° F 10.0 (3) Silicone-treated powder (A) 10.0 (4) Sorbitan sesquiolate 2.0 (5) Ion-exchanged water balance (Preparation method) The raw materials (1) to (4) were heated to 80 ° C., and (5) was added thereto and emulsified, followed by cooling to room temperature to obtain a desired solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic.

The following Examples and Comparative Examples were manufactured in the same manner as in Example 2.

[Example 3] (1) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 38.0 (2) Aristo wax 165 ° F 10.0 (3) Calcium stearate-treated powder (C) 10.0 (4) Sorbitan sesquiolate 2.0 (5) Ion-exchanged water Remainder The calcium stearate-treated powder (C) used here was prepared by mixing the raw material powder mixture of the silicone-treated powder (A) with 5% by weight of calcium stearate with respect to the powder, further adding ethanol, and kneading at 70 ° C. Then, it was obtained by drying and pulverizing.

[Example 4] (1) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 38.0 (2) Paraffin wax 155 ° F 10.0 (3) Dextrin fatty acid ester treated powder (D) 10.0 (4) Sorbitan sesquiolate 2.0 (5) Ion-exchanged water Remainder The dextrin fatty acid ester-treated powder (D) used here was prepared by subjecting the raw material powder mixture of the silicone-treated powder (A) to the dextrin fatty acid ester 5 wt% isopar according to the method described in JP-A-62-205165. It was added to an E (Exxon Chemical) solution, stirred, desolvated, dried, and pulverized to obtain.

Example 5 (1) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 38.0 (2) Dextrin palmitic acid partial ester 5.0 (3) Aristo wax 165 ° F 5.0 (4) Silicone-treated powder (A) 10.0 (5) Sorbitan sesquiolate 2.0 ( 6) Remaining ion-exchanged water [Comparative Example 2] (1) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 38.0 (2) Aristo wax 165 ° F 10.0 (3) Untreated powder (B) 10.0 (4) Sorbitan sesquiolate 2.0 (5) Ions Exchange water balance [Comparative Example 3] (1) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 38.0 (2) Hardened castor oil 10.0 (3) Untreated powder (B) 10.0 (4) Sorbitan sesquiolate 2.0 (5) Ion exchange water balance [Comparison Example 4] (1) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 75.0 (2) Aristo wax 165 ° F 10.0 (3) Sorbitan diisostearate 2.0 (4) Untreated powder (B) 10.0 (5) Ion-exchanged water balance The stability and usability evaluation results of the solid water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics of Examples 2 to 5 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4 It is shown in Table 2.

As is clear from Table 2, the solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetics of Examples 2 to 5 were stable without cracks, cracks, and separations, and had a good feel upon use. It was also excellent in terms of volatilization loss.

Example 6 Stick Emulsion Foundation (1) Methylphenylpolysiloxane 5.0 (2) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 20.0 (3) Glyceryl triisooctanoate 3.0 (4) Glyceryl diisostearate 2.0 (5) Celesin wax 7.0 (6) Dibenzylidene sorbitol 3.0 (7) Calcium stearate treated powder (C) 30.0 (8) Appropriate amount of perfume (9) Ion exchange water balance (10) Glycerin 2.0 (11) 1,3-butylene glycol 1.0 (12) Preservative Appropriate amount of agent (Preparation method) (1) to (6) and (8) are heated and dissolved at 80 ° C, (7) is added, and the mixture is dispersed at 80 ° C with a homogenizer. Further, the mixture of (9) to (12), which has been heated to 80 ° C. in advance, is added and emulsified. Thereafter, the mixture was filled in a stick-shaped container and cooled to room temperature to obtain a desired stick-shaped emulsified foundation.

[Example 7] Solid cosmetics (1) Trimethylsiloxysilicate 3.0 (2) Dimethylpolysiloxane 10.0 (3) Cetyl isooctanoate 10.0 (4) Squalane 10.0 (5) Microwax 155 10.0 (6) Diglycerin di Isostearate 2.0 (7) Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 2.0 (8) Calcium stearate treated talc 7.0 (9) Deionized water balance (10) Urea 3.0 (11) Glycine 3.0 (12) Diglycerin 2.0 (13) Propylene glycol 1.0 (14) Appropriate amount of preservative (Production method) After heating (1) to (7) at 80 ° C to dissolve, add (8) and disperse. Next, it was previously heated to 80 ° C (9)-
The mixture of (14) is added and emulsified and dispersed. Thereafter, the mixture was filled in an ointment container and cooled to room temperature to obtain a desired solid cosmetic containing urea.

The calcium stearate-treated talc was obtained by treating talc alone in the same manner as in the calcium stearate-treated powder (C).

[Example 8] Compact emulsified foundation (1) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 36.0 (2) Dimethylpolysiloxane (6cs) 2.0 (3) Jojoba oil 4.0 (4) Selesin 8.0 (5) Microcrystalline wax 1.0 (6) Sorbitan Diisostearate 2.0 (7) Silicone-treated powder (A) 20.0 (8) Residual ion-exchanged water (9) Glycerin 15.0 (10) 1,3-butylene glycol 2.0 (11) Preservatives appropriate amount (12) Flavors appropriate amount (production method) After heating (1) to (6) and (12) to 80 ° C., add (7) and disperse. Next, it was previously heated to 80 ° C (8)-
The mixture of (11) is added and emulsified and dispersed. Thereafter, the mixture was filled in a medium dish in a fluid state, cooled to room temperature, and mounted in a compact container to obtain a desired compact emulsified foundation. The obtained compact emulsified foundation was moist and non-greasy, had a refreshing feeling, had good makeup, and was convenient to carry.

In the production method of the following examples, the oil phase component is heated and dissolved at 80 ° C., the powder is dispersed, and the pre-heated aqueous phase component is emulsified and dispersed, and filled into a container in a fluid state. did. Thereafter, the mixture was cooled to obtain the desired product. All had good stability and excellent usability such as refreshing feeling.

[Example 9] Blusher (1) Liquid paraffin 20.0 (2) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 10.0 (3) Cetyl isooctanoate 15.0 (4) Diglycerin diisostearyl ether 3.0 (5) Micro wax 155 10.0 (6) Dextrin Palmitate 2.0 (7) Appropriate amount of fragrance (8) Dextrin fatty acid ester treated powder (D) 30.0 (9) Ion exchange water 6.9 (10) Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 (11) Sodium chondroitin sulfate 1.5 (12) Polyethylene glycol 1.5 (13) ) Preservative appropriate amount [Example 10] Lipstick (1) Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 10.0 (2) Dimethylpolysiloxane (6cs) 20.0 (3) Polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane 2.0 (4) Carnauba wax 2.8 (5) Aristo wax 165 ゜ F 8.0 (6) Diglyceryldiolate 3.0 7) Iron oxide red treated with dextrin fatty acid ester 0.3 (8) Iron oxide yellow treated with silicone 1.0 (9) Red No. 204 0.7 (10) Appropriate amount of dibutylhydroxytoluene (11) Appropriate amount of fragrance (12) Ion exchange water 51.4 (13) Atelocollagen 0.3 (14) Sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate 0.5 (15) Preservative appropriate amount The dextrin fatty acid ester-treated iron oxide red and the silicone-treated iron oxide yellow used herein were obtained by treating according to the above-described treatment method.

[Example 11] Lip treatment (1) Squalane 10.0 (2) Lanolin 2.0 (3) Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 10.0 (4) Isoparaffin (boiling point 155 ° C) 27.0 (5) Trimethylsiloxysilicate 3.0 (6) Aristo wax 165 ゜F 8.0 (7) Diglyceryl diisostearate 3.0 (8) Silicone-treated iron oxide yellow 0.8 (9) Silicone-treated iron oxide red 0.2 (10) Silicone-treated fine titanium oxide 3.0 (11) Ion-exchanged water Remaining (12) Glycerin 5.0 (13) Sodium lactate 0.3 (14) Sodium L-glutamate 0.3 (15) Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 (16) Sorbitol 0.5 (17) Red No. 202 0.01 (18) Menthol 0.1 (19) Perfume proper amount (20) Preservative proper amount The silicon-treated iron oxide yellow, silicon-treated iron oxide red, and silicon-treated particulate acid used here were used. Titanium oxide was obtained by processing according to the processing method described above.

[Effect of the Invention] The solid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention contains an oil component, a solid wax and / or an oil gelling agent, water, a lipophilic surfactant and a hydrophobized powder. In addition, it is a solid form with no fluidity, has little volatilization of water, has excellent stability without cracks and cracks, and has a "cool feeling" when applied.
"Noby""freshness" with a new feeling of use
It has the feature that the feeling of use such as "makeup sticky" is excellent. Especially when used as a makeup cosmetic, it is durable and has a solid form, but it can be blended with various moisturizers and chemicals as an aqueous phase component, and it is excellent in refreshing feeling during use and makeup stickiness after use. . Further, the present invention has an effect that the range of the container form to be filled can be expanded from the excellent stability.

 ────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (72) Inventor Susumu Takada 1050 Nippa-cho, Kohoku-ku, Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa Prefecture Examiner at Shiseido Research Institute, Inc. Mika Fuji (56) References JP-A-58-180412

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A solid water-in-oil type containing an oil, a solid wax and / or an oil gelling agent, water, a lipophilic surfactant, and a hydrophobized powder. Emulsified cosmetics.