JPH01224309A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a cosmetic having excellent spread, smoothness, etc., maintaining excellent moisture retention even under low humidity, by adsorbing polyglutamic acid and hydrogenated lecithin on the surface of lamellar powder and further blending the powder with powder treated with a solution of metallic salt for retention and subjected to moisture retention treatment. CONSTITUTION:Polyglutamic acid having preferably 10,000-5,000,000mol.wt. and hydrogenated lecithin are adsorbed on the surface of lamellar powder such as sericite, mica, talc, kaolin, etc., preferably sericite of mica having especially 0.5-20mu average particle diameter. Then the adsorbed powder is treated with a solution of a metallic salt such as Al salt, Mg salt or Ca salt to insolubilize the polyglutamic acid and the hydrogenated lecithin, which are firmly fixed to the powder. The powder treated for moisture retention thus obtained is added especially to make-up cosmetic to give a cosmetic having excellent spread, adhesion and smoothness on the skin and capable of providing a moist feeling which has never exist even under low humidity.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Industrial Application Field] The present invention has excellent spreadability, adhesion, and smoothness on the skin, and can provide an unprecedented moist feeling even under low humidity. The present invention relates to new cosmetics, especially make-up cosmetics.

[Conventional technology]

Traditionally, cosmetics such as foundation, face powder, pressed powder, eye shadow, eyebrow, etc.
Powders and pigments such as talc, sericite, kaolin, and varnish are used for various purposes to control the spreadability and adhesion of clay.

[Problem to be solved by the invention] However, when plate-like powders obtained from these inorganic minerals are applied to the skin, the oil and water absorption properties of the powder are too strong, so they remove more sebum and oil from the skin than necessary. It adsorbs moisture, causing the skin to lose its moist and smooth feel.

For this reason, when actually preparing products, for example, in the case of powder products, methods include adding polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol and glycerin in addition to oils, and recently, coating the powder surface with hydrogenated lecithin. , methods of coating with moisturizing polymeric substances such as hyaluronic acid have come into use.

However, in the former method, when a low molecular weight humectant such as propylene glycol or glycerin is mixed with the powder, it is adsorbed to the powder, but it is only in a wet state and does not affect the surface of the powder. Since it does not fundamentally change the properties, it lacks the smoothness of the skin, which is characteristic of powder, and cannot sufficiently improve the dry feeling, and it also tends to cause makeup to fade due to sweating, etc. .

On the other hand, even in the latter method, the powder coated with hydrogenated lecithin imparts spreadability and improved texture, and the powder coated with a moisturizing polymer substance imparts moisture retention and gives a moist feel. Although it has a function, it does not perform its function in low humidity or in the so-called dry season.
The above-mentioned problems could not be solved.

[Means to solve problems]

Therefore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors conducted intensive research on coating the powder raw material with a component that has moisture retention properties, and found that both polyglutamic acid and hydrogenated lecithin were adsorbed on the surface of the powder raw material. Furthermore, the coated powder, which has been treated with metal salts to make polyglutamic acid and hydrogenated lecithin insoluble, has excellent spreadability and smoothness, and has excellent moisturizing properties even under low humidity conditions. This discovery led to the completion of the present invention.

That is, the present invention is characterized by blending a moisture-retaining treated powder in which polyglutamic acid and hydrogenated lecithin are adsorbed onto the surface of a plate-shaped powder, and the powder is fixed by being further treated with a metal salt solution. The present invention relates to cosmetics.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

First, examples of the plate-shaped powder applicable to the present invention include sericite, mica, tartar, kaolin, etc., but sericite or mica is preferably used from the viewpoint of ease of spreading and adhesiveness. In addition, the average particle size is 0.5
A range of ~20μ is advantageously used.

Next, polyglutamic acid is obtained by molecular condensation of glutamic acid, which is a type of amino acid, and is commercially available.
A range of 15,000 to 1,000,000, preferably 10,000 to 500,000 is used. Furthermore, the polyglutamic acid may be of natural origin, such as one derived from microorganisms.

On the other hand, as for hydrogenated lecithin, ordinary one is fine;
Examples include hydrogenated egg yolk lecithin and hydrogenated soybean lecithin.

Further, metal salts used in the fixing treatment include aluminum salts such as aluminum sulfate and aluminum chloride, magnesium salts such as magnesium sulfate and magnesium chloride, calcium salts such as calcium sulfate and calcium chloride, and barium, iron, copper, and zinc. , soluble salts such as zirconium, and the like.

Here, the composition ratio of polyglutamic acid and hydrogenated lecithin to be fixed to the plate-shaped powder is 1 to 1 of the plate-shaped powder.
In contrast, a range of 0.01 to 0.05 for polyglutamic acid or 0.01 to 0.1 for hydrogenated lecithin is selected. If the adhesion amount is less than this range, spreadability and moisturizing properties will not be improved, whereas if it is more than this range, the spreadability will deteriorate and an uncomfortable feeling will be felt when applying makeup, which is not preferable.

The amount of the metal salt to be used is preferably about 0.1 to 2 times the amount of polyglutamic acid and hydrogenated lecithin used in the adsorption treatment.

Next, a method for producing a moisture-retaining treated powder according to the present invention will be explained.

That is, first, a plate-shaped powder such as mica or sericite is suspended in about four times the volume of water, and polyglutamic acid is added thereto and sufficiently stirred to cause the polyglutamic acid to be primarily adsorbed on the surface of the powder.

Next, hydrogenated lecithin is added to this polyglutamic acid adsorbed powder dispersion and heated while stirring vigorously to completely dissolve or emulsify the hydrogenated lecithin. At this time, hydrogenated lecithin is secondarily adsorbed onto polyglutamic acid on the surface of the powder. A 1-20% aqueous solution of metal salt is then added. As a result, the polyglutamic acid and hydrogenated lecithin adsorbed on the powder surface become water-insoluble metal salts and are fixed, while at the same time, the remaining polyglutamic acid and hydrogenated lecithin dissolved in the aqueous solution also become water-insoluble metal salts on the powder surface. It is adsorbed and fixed on top. This is dehydrated using a centrifugal dehydrator and dried at 8o to 120°C to obtain the desired moisturizing treated powder.

The moisture-retaining treated powder according to the present invention obtained as described above has polyglutamic acid (layer) primarily adsorbed on the powder surface.
It has a unique structure in which hydrophobic hydrogenated lecithin (second layer) is secondarily adsorbed to the carboxyl groups of It spreads easily, is smooth, has excellent adhesion, and has unprecedented properties such as maintaining good moisture retention even under low humidity.

Next, the moisturizing treated powder according to the present invention can be widely applied to cosmetics that require the use of powder, and thus the cosmetics provided by the present invention can be , liquid foundation, powder foundation, cake eye color, dusting powder, stick foundation, face powder,
The present invention can be applied to a wide variety of products, such as antiperspirants, pinks, eye shadows, creams, and milky lotions.

The blending amount is arbitrarily selected depending on the properties of the cosmetic, and is approximately 0.5 to 30% by weight for liquid foundations, approximately 0.5 to 70% by weight for powder foundations,
Approximately 0.5 to 80% by weight for face powder, approximately 0.5 to 70% by weight for Habo Beni, approximately 1 to 95% by weight for body powder, and approximately 0.1 to 15% by weight for cream.
Therefore, it is usually about 0.0% based on the total weight of cosmetics.
The amount is 1 to 95% by volume, preferably about 0.5 to 50% by volume.

In addition, there are no particular restrictions on the method of incorporating it into cosmetics; for example, it can be incorporated into cosmetics by mixing it with other cosmetic raw materials, in the same way as conventional inorganic powders. .

Specific examples of other cosmetic raw materials that can be used with the moisturizing treated powder of the present invention include tar, kaolin, sericite, titanium oxide, mica, zinc oxide, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, Bismuth oxychloride, bentonite, magnesium oxide, barium sulfate,
Organic powders such as white pigments such as calcium carbonate and titanium mica, silk powder, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, acrylic acid or acrylic acid ester polymer powder, methacrylic acid or methacrylic acid ester polymer powder, benzoguanamine powder, keratin powder, etc. body, inorganic red pigments such as iron oxide (bengara), iron titanate, inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide, purple pigments such as mango violet, inorganic yellow pigments such as chromium oxide, cobalt titanate, Inorganic blue pigments such as ultramarine and deep blue, titanium oxide corchidite mica, titanium oxide corchide oxybismuth chloride, titanium oxide cochtidate talc, fish l! i-foil, pearlescent pigments such as colored titanium oxide kochiite mica, metal powder pigments such as aluminum powder, Yellow No. 4, Yellow 5@, Green No. 3, Blue No. 1, Red No. 226, Red No. 227, Orange No. 206 Tar pigments such as, lakes of natural pigments such as carminic acid, calsamine, crocin, etc., lipophilic treatment of the above powders or pigments with silicone etc., hydrocarbons such as squalane and liquid paraffin, dimethyl Silicones such as polysiloxane and cyclic silicone, esters such as isostearyl isostearate, triglycerides such as 2-ethylhexanoic acid triglyceride, lanolin such as lanolin and hydrogenated lanolin, waxes such as carnauba wax and candelilla wax. waxes such as beeswax,
Fatty acids such as stearic acid and oleic acid, higher alcohols such as cetanol, animal oils such as mink oil, vegetable oils such as jojoba oil and olive oil, metal soaps such as aluminum stearate, phospholipids, anionic surfactants, and cations. surfactants such as surfactants, antioxidants, fragrances, amino acids or derivatives thereof, alcohols such as ethanol, 1.3
Polyhydric alcohols such as butylene glycol, sugars, preservatives, water, vitamins 1, plant extracts, animal extracts, medicinal ingredients such as drugs, thickeners, humectants, etc. can be blended.

〔Example〕

Examples of the present invention are shown below. In addition, the blending ratio is V-position.

Example 1 Dusting powder (8)・Squalane 7.7・Fragrance 0.3 The above formulation (
A) and (I3) are mixed uniformly using a Henschel mixer, pulverized using a pulverizer, and the product is filled into a container.

Example 2 Powder foundation, talc 9.5, titanium oxide 5.0, Bengara
2.0・Yellow iron oxide
5.0(B) ・Liquid paraffin
14.0(C)・Fragrance
0.5 The above formulation (A) is mixed uniformly with a Henschel mixer and pulverized with a pulverizer. After (B) is added to this and mixed uniformly using a Henschel mixer, (C) is further added and mixed uniformly, and the product is pressed into a container.

Example 3 Cake-like eye color/Titanium oxide 5.0/Zinc white
2.0・Begara
8.0・Yellow iron oxide
2.0・Black iron oxide 4.0
(B) ・Beeswax 1.5
・Paraffin wax 1.0 ・Liquid paraffin 7.0 ・Ethylparaben
0.2 (C) ・Fragrance
0.3 Mix the above formulation (A) uniformly in a Henschel mixer and grind it in a grinder. Next, transfer to the Henschel mixer again and warm to 85°C. to this(
Add B), heat to 85°C, and mix uniformly.

After further adding (C) and mixing uniformly, the mixture is crushed using a crusher and pressed into a container to obtain a product.

Example 4 Face powder talc 43.4 Bengara
0.6・Yellow iron oxide
1.5(8)・Methylpolysiloxane 2.0・Squalane
1.8・Ethylparaben 0.2(
C) ・Fragrance 0.5 Mix the above formulation (A) uniformly with a Henschel mixer,
Grind with a grinder. Next, transfer to the Henschel mixer again, add (B) and mix uniformly.

After further adding (C) and mixing uniformly, the mixture is ground using a grinder and filled into a container to produce a product.

Example 5 Cheek color (Habo-red) - Talc 15.0 - Fine particle titanium oxide 8.5 - Nylon powder 10.0 - Yellow iron oxide
6.5. Bengara 2.
5(B)・Methylpolysiloxane 4.0・
Squalane 6.0・Ethylparaben 0.2(C)・Fragrance
0.3 Mix the above formulation (A) uniformly in a Henschel mixer and grind it in a grinder. Next, transfer to the Henschel mixer again, add (B) and mix uniformly.

After further adding (C) and mixing uniformly, the mixture is crushed using a crusher and pressed into a container to obtain a product.

Example 6 Liquid foundation (^)・Liquid paraffin 11.0・Vaseline 4.0・Stearic acid 2.0・Isopropyl myristate 3.0・Setanol
2.0・PoE(25) Monostearate 1.5・Glycerin Monooleate 0.5・Begara
0.5・Yellow iron oxide
2.0・Black iron oxide
0.2・talc 1.0(
C)・Propylene glycol 5.0・Glycerin 3.0・Sodium hyaluronate 2.0・Potassium hydroxide
0.2・Ethylparaben 0.
2. Purified water 46.7CD)
・Fragrance 0.2 above (^
) are uniformly dissolved and mixed at 75-80°C. To this is added (B), which has been previously mixed and pulverized using a mixer, and the mixture is stirred and dispersed to obtain a dispersion.

Next, (C) is uniformly dissolved and mixed at 75 to 80'C and is gradually added to the above dispersion while stirring to obtain an emulsified dispersion. Then, in addition to (D), the product is cooled to 30'C and filled into a container.

(Effects of the Invention) Next, in order to explain the superiority of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the results of a moisturizing property evaluation test and a sensory evaluation test are shown below.

1> Moisture retention evaluation test (sample) The dusting powder of the present invention shown in Example 1 is A, the polyglutamic acid hydrogenated lecithin-treated sericite and polyglutamic acid hydrogenated lecithin in the dusting powder of Example 1. Instead of treated mica,
A sample containing dusting powder 81 containing sericite and mica or C containing dusting powder containing sericite coated with hyaluronic acid and mica coated with hyaluronic acid was used.

(Method) A glass beaker with a diameter of 30 m is covered with a sealing sheet (Microntex C/#106), and a constant f.
After uniformly applying an emulsion of i (4 (Cg)) and then uniformly applying each sample at a constant ffi (20 mg), apply a sealing sheet gently so that the applied material on the sealing sheet does not come off. Remove it and put 20g of water in the glass beaker.
Cover the coating groove again with a sealing sheet and heat it at 20℃.
Leave at relative humidity RH-50%, 30 minutes later, 60 minutes later,
The amount of water loss in the glass beaker was measured after 90 minutes, 120 minutes, and 180 minutes, and the process of loss at low temperature and the amount of water loss after 180 minutes of standing were compared and evaluated.

(Results) The results are shown in Figure 1 and Table 1. As is clear from Figure 1 and Table 1, the dusting powder A (Example 1) of the present invention was mixed with comparative amounts of dusting powder B (containing sericite and mica) and dusting powder C (hyaluronic acid-coated sericite and hyaluronic acid-coated powder). It has been proven that it has superior moisture retention properties over time under low humidity compared to mica).

In the margin below 2> Sensory evaluation test (sample) The cosmetics of the present invention shown in Examples 1 to 3 above, and the hydrogenated polyglutamic acid blended in the cosmetics of each of Examples 1 to 3 as a control product. Instead of the lecithin-treated powder, a cosmetic containing existing hydrogenated lecithin-treated sericite and/or hydrogenated lecithin-treated mica was used.

(Method) A total of 20 mixed male and female panelists evaluated the sensory evaluation items: moist feeling on the skin, the properties of conventional sericite or mica, such as spreadability on the skin, adhesion to the skin,
The four items of smoothness were evaluated using the following criteria, and the average score of 20 people was used as the score.

Below margin (evaluation criteria) Not very small and very small
The results are shown in Table 2. As shown in the results in Table 2, all of the cosmetics of the present invention were comparable to or slightly improved in terms of spreadability, adhesion to the skin, smoothness, etc., compared to the control cosmetics. Furthermore, it became clear that the moist feeling was several steps superior.

Table 2, Sensory Evaluation Results As shown above, the cosmetic of the present invention has excellent spreadability, adhesion, and smoothness on the skin, and can provide an unprecedented moisturizing feeling even under low humidity. It is possible to provide safety against

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figure 1 shows the time (minutes) and water loss m (
In the figure, A is the dusting powder of the present invention (Example 1), and B is a comparative amount of the dusting powder (sericite and mica replacement).
, C is a comparative amount of dusting powder (hyaluronic acid coated sericite and hyaluronic acid coated mica substitution).

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1) A cosmetic product characterized by blending a moisture-retaining treated powder obtained by adsorbing polyglutamic acid and hydrogenated lecithin on the surface of a plate-shaped powder, and further treating it with a metal salt solution to fix it. .