Summary of the invention
Therefore, the object of the present invention is to provide a kind of cosmetic composition with flushable property, and wish that further this cosmetic composition with flushable property can be divided into three layers after leaving standstill, each layer all was transparent before painted, and had branch interval velocity easy to use.
Beat allly be, the inventor finds that above-mentioned purpose is achieved by a kind of like this cosmetic composition, and said composition comprises following component based on its gross weight:
(1) the polydimethylsiloxane component of 20-40wt.%, the viscosity of this component are 5-50cps (Bu Shi rotating cylinder viscometer, No. 2 rotors, rotating speed 100rpm, and measurement under 25 ℃);
(2) the amphipathic ethoxylated polyhydric alcohol alkyl carboxylic acid ester component of 10-35wt.%, it is the ester of polyether polyol and alkyl carboxylic acid, wherein the carbon number of polyether polyol structure division and alkyl carboxylic acid structure division is all between 6-20, and the absolute value of the difference of the carbon number of polyether polyol structure division and alkyl carboxylic acid structure division is smaller or equal to 2; And
(3) polyol component of 25-50wt.%.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention can be divided into three layers after leaving standstill, its unique distinction is that its each layer all is transparent, shake up the back use and have good makeup removing and clean ability, and because of having adopted amphipathic ethoxylated polyhydric alcohol alkyl carboxylic acid ester to obtain good flushable property with Action of Surfactant, stay soft after the flushing and slick skin feel, leave standstill a period of time after (2-60 minute) recover three-decker again.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention is thermodynamically stable laminar product, its implication is meant: after the compositions of this no dyeing is rocked mixing, leave standstill, in 2-60 divides clock time, said composition can have clear interfacial three layers spontaneous being divided into, and each layer all be transparent, and preferably the light transmittance of each layer is more than or equal to 80%.
More preferably, cosmetic composition of the present invention is three layer compositions with suitable minute interval velocity, and its implication is meant: cosmetic composition of the present invention is rocked mixing, after leaving standstill 5-20 minute, just can obtain having clear interfacial three-decker.
According to the present invention, cosmetic composition comprises the polydimethylsiloxane component, and the viscosity of this component is 5-50cps, is preferably 10-20cps (Bu Shi rotating cylinder viscometer, No. 2 rotors, rotating speed 100rpm, and measurement under 25 ℃).The polydimethylsiloxane that this polydimethylsiloxane component relates to is the straight chain polydimethylsiloxane preferably, for being the oligomer that directly is connected with methyl on main chain and the silicon atom with silica (Si-O) key.The molecular weight ratio of this polydimethylsiloxane is lower, has lower viscosity.For the present invention, the straight chain polydimethylsiloxane for example is octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, ten dimethyl, five siloxanes etc.
In cosmetic composition of the present invention, the proportion of polydimethylsiloxane component is minimum relatively, therefore can appear at the upper strata usually.The molecular weight of polydimethylsiloxane is low more, and its proportion and viscosity are just more little, and stratified speed is just fast more, therefore in order to realize required branch interval velocity, can regulate by the viscosity of polydimethylsiloxane.The polydimethylsiloxane of viscosity more than 350cps is because of the reason of its density and viscosity, and can make is separated becomes difficult, therefore should not adopt.On the other hand, has volatile polydimethylsiloxane, be lower than the straight chain polydimethylsiloxane of 2cps such as viscosity, because evaporation rate is too fast, less residue in the system, also can cause system layering speed slow excessively, after 24 hours, still can't reach stable stratification state, therefore should not adopt.For the purpose of the present invention, in order to obtain acceptable branch interval velocity, the viscosity of the polydimethylsiloxane that the polydimethylsiloxane component is comprised can be 5-150cps usually, be preferably 10-50cps, condition is that the viscosity of the mixture (constituting the polydimethylsiloxane component) of all these polydimethylsiloxane is 5-50cps, and preferred 10-20cps gets final product.
Certainly, the present invention can use single kind of polydimethylsiloxane, also can use two or more polydimethylsiloxane, and for the latter, condition is that the viscosity of the mixture of all these polydimethylsiloxane is 5-50cps, and preferred 10-20cps gets final product.To this, those skilled in the art are to be understood that, when the present invention uses two or more polydimethylsiloxane, even the viscosity of wherein certain or some polydimethylsiloxane does not fall in the scope of 5-50cps, but as long as their overall viscosity when mixing are 5-50cps, preferred 10-20cps can use.Preferably, the viscosity of all polydimethylsiloxane of use is 5-50cps, preferred 10-20cps.
The polydimethylsiloxane component can be the product available from commodity DC200, the DC 225 by name of Dow Corning company, can also be by name available from the commodity of Evonik Degussa company
20,
50 product.
Polydimethylsiloxane component among the present invention is also referred to as dimethicone or methyl-silicone oil sometimes, and they are synonyms, can exchange use.
Consider cleaning capacity and layered effect, based on the gross weight of cosmetic composition of the present invention, the polydimethylsiloxane components contents is generally 20-40wt.%, is preferably 25-35wt.%.
Another important component in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is amphipathic ethoxylated polyhydric alcohol alkyl carboxylic acid ester, it is the ester of polyether polyol and alkyl carboxylic acid, wherein the carbon number of polyether polyol structure division and alkyl carboxylic acid structure division is all between 6-20, and the absolute value of the difference of the carbon number of polyether polyol structure division and alkyl carboxylic acid structure division is smaller or equal to 2.To this, polyether polyol is preferably polyoxypropylene polyol that polyether polyol that the glycerol condensation obtains, polyoxyethylene polyols that the ethylene oxide condensation obtains and/or propylene oxide condensation obtain etc., and the degree of polymerization is between 2-8; And alkyl carboxylic acid is preferably the fatty acid that carbon number is 6-20, and more preferably carbon number is the fatty acid of 6-16, for example caproic acid, sad, capric acid, lauric acid, tetradecanoic acid and hexadecanoic acid etc.In a preferred embodiment, this amphipathic ethoxylated polyhydric alcohol alkyl carboxylic acid ester comprises polyglycereol alkyl carboxylic acid ester and polyoxyethylated alkyl carboxylic acid ester.
For the polyglycereol alkyl carboxylic acid ester, the esters of preferred polyglycereol and fatty acid, further preferred average degree of polymerization is that polyglycereol and the carbon number of 3-5 are 8-16, are preferably the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester that the fatty acid esterification of 8-12 obtains, and wherein the absolute value of the difference of polyglycereol structure division and fatty acid structure part carbon number is smaller or equal to 2.As the example of this class ester, can mention as polyglycereol-3 decanoin that provides by Evonik Degussa company (
SOFT PC31), polyglycereol-4 decanoin (
SOFT PC41), polyglycereol-3 caprylate (
COSMO P813) and polyglycereol-4 laurate (
CARE PL 4).
For polyoxyethylated alkyl carboxylic acid ester, be preferably the esters of polyoxyethylene and fatty acid, further preferred average degree of polymerization is that polyoxyethylene and the carbon number of 2-8, preferred 5-8 are 6-18, the polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester that obtains of the fatty acid esterification of 8-16 preferably, wherein polyoxyethylene structure division and fatty acid structure partly separately the absolute value of difference of carbon number smaller or equal to 2.As the example of this class ester, can mention as PEG-6 decanoin, PEG-6 laurate, PEG-7 laurate and PEG-7 cocos nucifera oil acid esters.
In the present invention, the amphipathic ethoxylated polyhydric alcohol alkyl carboxylic acid ester can singlely use, and also can two or more be used in combination.Based on the gross weight of cosmetic composition of the present invention, amphipathic ethoxylated polyhydric alcohol alkyl carboxylic acid ester components contents is generally 10-35wt.%, is preferably 15-25wt.%.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention that exists for of amphipathic ethoxylated polyhydric alcohol alkyl carboxylic acid ester component provides good cleaning power and flushable property.Because density is moderate, so the major part of this component will appear at the intermediate layer.
Another important component in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a polyhydric alcohol.Preferably, this polyhydric alcohol is glycerol and/or propylene glycol, preferably glycerol.Glycerol is because proportion appears at orlop more greatly and mainly.
Based on the gross weight of cosmetic composition of the present invention, the content of polyol component is generally 25-50wt.%, is preferably 25-35wt.%.
In addition, cosmetic composition of the present invention can also comprise water.The effect that has several respects of water: can reduce cost, can improve the salubrious property of product, of paramount importance is that the adding of water can make the intermediate layer thickening, thereby regulates intermediary amphipathic emollient easily mutually and orlop polyhydric alcohol amount mutually.Based on the gross weight of cosmetic composition of the present invention, the content of water is generally 10-30wt.%, is preferably 15-30wt.%.When cosmetic composition of the present invention used glycerol as polyol component, the part by weight of G ﹠ W was preferably between 2: 1~1: 2.
In order to improve the performance of cosmetic composition of the present invention, make it to have more suitable branch interval velocity, also can comprise non-silicone oil oils and fats in the cosmetic composition of the present invention.Adding non-silicone oil oils and fats can increase the speed of three phase separation, and polarity is big more, and the speed that is separated is fast more.Therefore can regulate the speed of cosmetic composition three phase separation of the present invention by this greasy kind and consumption.
Be applicable to that non-silicone oil oils and fats of the present invention comprises straight chain and/or side chain monobasic and/or the dicarboxylic acids with 2-44 carbon atom and has the saturated or undersaturated straight chain of 1-22 carbon atom and/or the monobasic and the binary esters of branched-chain alcoho.Similarly, as being used for non-silicone oil oils and fats of the present invention, also can using difunctionality aliphatic alcohols with 2-36 carbon atom and ester with simple function aliphatic carboxylic acid of 1-22 carbon atom.
As being used for non-silicone oil oils and fats of the present invention, can also specifically preferably use the esters of fatty acid with 12-22 carbon atom, as methyl ester and isopropyl ester, for example methyl laurate, methyl stearate, methyl oleate, methyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl stearate and/or acid isopropyl.
In addition, as being used for non-silicone oil oils and fats of the present invention, also concrete preferred n-butyl stearate, the just own ester of lauric acid, oleic acid ester in the positive last of the ten Heavenly stems, the different monooctyl ester of stearic acid, Palmic acid ester in the different ninth of the ten Heavenly Stems, isononyl isononanoate, Palmic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, lauric acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester, stearic acid 2-hexyl decyl ester, 2-Palmic acid octyl group dodecane ester, oleic oil alkene ester, erucic acid oil alkene ester and/or oleic acid mustard ester.
As being used for non-silicone oil oils and fats of the present invention, also especially suitable is the dicarboxylic acids esters, for example Di-n-butyl Adipate, n-butyl sebacate, adipic acid two (2-ethylhexyl) ester, succinic acid two (2-hexyl decyl) ester and/or Azelaic Acid two different tridecane esters.As being used for non-silicone oil oils and fats of the present invention, also especially suitable is diol-lipid, for example two oleic acid glycol esters, two different tridecanoic acid glycol esters, two (2 ethyl hexanoic acid) propylene glycol ester, two isostearic acid butanediol esters and/or two sad DOPCP.
It is same that what be suitable for is the triglyceride of relative long-chain, i.e. triple esters of glycerol and three acid molecules, and at least one is the acid molecule of a relative long-chain in these acid molecules.What can mention by way of example here is the fatty acid triglycercide class, and this comprises the triglyceride of the mixture of synthetic caprylic/capric, the triglyceride of industrial oleic acid, the triglyceride of isostearic acid and the triglyceride of Petiolus Trachycarpi/oleic mixture.
Operable in addition is the straight or branched aliphatic alcohols, for example oleyl alcohol or octyldodecanol, and also have aliphatic alcohol ethers, for example dicaprylyl ether, PPG-3 myristyl ether etc.
What be suitable for equally is crude vegetal, for example olive oil, Oleum Helianthi, soybean oil, Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen, rapeseed oil, almond oil, Petiolus Trachycarpi oil or Jojoba oil, and also has the liquid part of Oleum Cocois or palm shell oil, and also have animal oil, for example as the liquid part of sperm oil, neat's foot oil or Adeps Bovis seu Bubali.
As being used for non-silicone oil oils and fats of the present invention, can also use hydro carbons oils and fats, particularly liquid paraffin and isoparaffin.The greasy example of operable hydro carbons is paraffin oil, white mineral oil, 2-Methylpentadecane, poly decene, petroleum jelly, light liquid paraffin or squalane.
In addition, the esters of aryl carboxylic acid also is suitable, as benzoic esters, for example has the saturated or undersaturated straight or branched alcohols of 1-22 carbon atom and the benzoates that the benzoic acid esterification forms, for example benzoic acid iso stearyl ester and benzoic acid octyl group dodecane ester, preferred benzoic acid C
12-15Arrcostab.
As being used for non-silicone oil oils and fats of the present invention, can also use the carbonic diester class, as carbonic acid two-ethyl hexyl ester.
Be applicable to the preferred polarity of non-silicone oil oils and fats of the present invention be higher than equal white mineral oil have middle polarity and/or a high polar oils and fats.Oils and fats with middle polarity is carbonic acid two-ethyl hexyl ester, tricaprylin, benzoic acid C preferably
12-15Arrcostab and/or octyldodecanol; Have high polar oils and fats and preferably have the hydrophobicity oils and fats of polypropylene glycol (hereinafter referred is PPG) structure division, such as the PPG-3 myristyl ether that provides by Evonik Degussa company (
SOFT APM), the stearic alcohol ether of PPG-11 (
SOFT APS), the PPG-14 butyl ether (
SOFT PBE) and/or the stearic alcohol ether of PPG-15 (
SOFT E), preferred PPG-3 myristyl ether.These ether products it has been generally acknowledged that at cosmetic field and belong to hydrophobic oils and fats.
Excessive each layer transparency that cause easily of the greasy amount of the non-silicone oil of polarity descends, and slight muddiness just occurs.Therefore, based on the gross weight of cosmetic composition of the present invention, the common consumption of the non-silicone oil lubricant component of polarity is 0.1-10wt.%, and preferable amount is 0.5-5wt.%.
In addition,, can use coloring agent,, wherein upper strata, middle level and/or lower floor be carried out painted, especially carry out painted the intermediate layer as dyestuff in order to make the outward appearance of cosmetic composition of the present invention more attractive.The polarity of three layers of each layer of cosmetic product of the present invention is had nothing in common with each other.The inventor is surprised to find, and oil-soluble dyes can optionally dye to the intermediate layer of three layers of cosmetic product of the present invention, and keep the upper and lower not contaminated simultaneously, and water-soluble dye does not then have so outstanding selectivity.Preferably, can be used for oil-soluble dyes of the present invention and be selected from down group: D﹠amp; C yellow N ° 11 D C Yellow No. 10s; D﹠amp; C green N ° 6 solvents are green; D﹠amp; C violet N ° of 2 solvent violet 13 and D﹠amp; C red N ° 17 solvent red 23s.
The use amount of dyestuff can obtain the color purity and the lightness in dyeing district according to what, needs of product population and adjust, and this is conventional to those skilled in the art.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention just can make by general cosmetics preparation process, for example just can access after each component mix homogeneously, and it is thermodynamically stable three layers of product.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention can be divided into three layers after leaving standstill, and each layer all be transparent, and the light transmittance of each layer preferably can be up to 80% or higher.After this cosmetic composition shaken up, left standstill usually 2-60 minute, can form once more and have clear interfacial three layers.According to the present invention advantageously, control the viscosity of polydimethylsiloxane component and/or select greasy kind of the non-silicone oil of polarity and consumption by the dimethicone that mixes different viscosities, can realize that layer thoroughly separating the time that forms fine limit from mixing to three is 5-20 minute.
In general, two separating surfaces are divided into product roughly that 1: 1: 1 three-decker is that consumer is easy to accept.In fact, if expectation obtained roughly 1: 2: 3 or three layers of cosmetic product of 1: 2: 1 or other ratio roughly, can obtain by above-mentioned three components contents of suitable adjustment.
Though three layers of cosmetic product of the present invention can observe directly obvious two interfaces, which component each layer contains actually, and the distribution of each component in every layer is not fully aware of at present.
Though cosmetic composition product of the present invention is because of having good washability mainly as cleansing composition, but consider the mildness of this product and the performance of keeping humidity of polyether polyol alkyl carboxylic acid ester component, this product can also be used as and be deposited in the skin care item of skin surface, or is deposited in hair surface to increase the hair product of glossiness, raising cardability.
Set forth the present invention below by embodiment, but these embodiment should not be construed as limitation of the scope of the invention.
Embodiment
Embodiment 1
Shown in last table, fill a prescription,, promptly obtain cosmetic composition product 1 all components mix homogeneously.After leaving standstill 15 minutes, be observed visually this product and have roughly isopyknic three layers, the separating surface between every layer is clear, and middle one deck is a bluish violet, the two-layer up and down water white transparency that is.
During use, product 1 is rocked or shake mixing, get 0.5-1g subsequently and be applied in target site, easily the various color make-ups on the removal skin.Water is rinsed well, but and cleaning skin.Dermal sensation is along sliding soft after being used to complete.
Product 1 is called the upper, middle and lower by light to heavy three layers.Extend the middle position of each layer respectively with the disposable syringe syringe needle, carefully draw a part of sample.Adopting 2802 type ultraviolet-uisible spectrophotometers of Unico company, under 425nm wavelength condition, is that reference is respectively to the sample test light transmittance of the upper, middle and lower with the deionized water.According to the size of light transmittance, every layer transparency is marked:
Light transmittance 〉=90% is estimated 1 fen, and is transparent
Light transmittance 〉=80~<90% is estimated 2 fens, little muddiness
Light transmittance 〉=30~<80% is estimated 3 fens, and is translucent
Light transmittance 〉=5~<30% is estimated 4 fens, and is opaque
Light transmittance<5% is estimated 5 fens, and is opaque fully
Test with said method, last, the following trilaminar transparence evaluating of neutralization of product 1 are 1 fen.
In addition, also product 1 ambient-temp-stable property testing, heat resistant test and freezing-thawing test have been carried out respectively.The ambient-temp-stable property testing is meant to be preserved sample three months between room temperature 20-25 ℃, and heat resistant test promptly refers to sample was preserved three months down at 45 ℃, and freezing-thawing test promptly refers to sample is carried out cold cycling three times under-15 ℃/room temperature condition.As a result, phenomenons such as variable color do not appear in the stratification state when product 1 still keeps testing beginning through above-mentioned any test back outward appearance.Show that thus product 1 is stable.
Embodiment 2
Fill a prescription shown in last table, with all components mix homogeneously, promptly obtain cosmetic composition product 2, this product is not moisture.After leaving standstill 60 minutes, be observed visually this product and have roughly isopyknic three layers, the separating surface between every layer is clear, and from top to bottom, transparence evaluating was respectively 2 minutes, 1 minute and 2 minutes.In addition, ambient-temp-stable property testing, heat resistant test and the freezing-thawing test to product 2 shows that product 2 is stable.
Embodiment 3
Shown in last table, fill a prescription,, promptly obtain cosmetic composition product 3 all components mix homogeneously.After leaving standstill 25 minutes, be observed visually this product and have roughly isopyknic three layers, the separating surface between every layer is clear, and each layer is water white transparency, and transparence evaluating is 1 fen.In addition, ambient-temp-stable property testing, heat resistant test and the freezing-thawing test to product 3 shows that product 3 is stable.
Embodiment 4
Shown in last table, fill a prescription,, promptly obtain cosmetic composition product 4 all components mix homogeneously.After leaving standstill 25 minutes, be observed visually this product and have roughly isopyknic three layers, the separating surface between every layer is clear, and each layer is water white transparency, and transparence evaluating is 1 fen.In addition, ambient-temp-stable property testing, heat resistant test and the freezing-thawing test to product 4 shows that product 4 is stable.
Embodiment 5
Shown in last table, fill a prescription,, promptly obtain cosmetic composition product 5 all components mix homogeneously.After leaving standstill 15 minutes, be observed visually this product and have roughly isopyknic three layers, the separating surface between every layer is clear, and each layer is water white transparency, and transparence evaluating is 1 fen.In addition, ambient-temp-stable property testing, heat resistant test and the freezing-thawing test to product 5 shows that product 5 is stable.
Embodiment 6
Shown in last table, fill a prescription,, promptly obtain cosmetic composition product 6 all components mix homogeneously.After leaving standstill 15 minutes, be observed visually this product and have roughly isopyknic three layers, the separating surface between every layer is clear, and each layer is water white transparency, and transparence evaluating is 1 fen.In addition, ambient-temp-stable property testing, heat resistant test and the freezing-thawing test to product 6 shows that product 6 is stable.
Comparative Examples 7 and embodiment 8-11
According to being respectively the prescription shown in Comparative Examples 7 and the embodiment 8-11 in the last table,, promptly obtain cosmetic composition product 7-11 with all components mix homogeneously of each prescription.
By embodiment 8-11 as can be seen, between the 5-50cps scope, the dimethyl-silicon oil viscosity is high more, and it is just long more that the needed time of obvious separating surface appears in standing demix.Those skilled in the art can expect, mix when forming the polydimethylsiloxane component with the dimethicone of multiple different viscosities, also can realize purpose of the present invention when the comprehensive viscosity of this component is in the 5-50cps scope.When viscosity was lower than 5cps, dimethyl-silicon oil volatility and permeability increased, and system is difficult to form three-decker (seeing Comparative Examples 7).
In addition, ambient-temp-stable property testing, heat resistant test and the freezing-thawing test to product 8-11 shows that product 8-11 is stable.
Embodiment 12
Shown in last table, fill a prescription,, promptly obtain cosmetic composition product 12 all components mix homogeneously.After leaving standstill 60 minutes, be observed visually this product and have roughly isopyknic three layers, the separating surface between every layer is clear, and each layer is water white transparency, and transparence evaluating is 1 fen.In addition, ambient-temp-stable property testing, heat resistant test and the freezing-thawing test to product 12 shows that product 12 is stable.
The non-silicone oil oils and fats of Semi-polarity of the present invention is selectable component, when adopting the lower dimethicone of viscosity, does not contain the polarity oils and fats of the non-silicone oil oils and fats of polarity such as this class of carbonic acid two-ethyl hexyl ester in the oil phase, also can realize branch interval velocity faster.For example, embodiment 12 contains the dimethicone that viscosity is 20cps, the product that contains the dimethicone of 20cps and carbonic acid two-ethyl hexyl ester with embodiment 10 relatively, the former needs 60 minutes, and the latter only needs 15-16 minute.
Embodiment 13-14
According to being respectively the prescription shown in the embodiment 13-14 in the last table,, promptly obtain cosmetic composition product 13-14 with all components mix homogeneously of each prescription.
Found through experiments, greasy polarity is strong more, and it can accelerate to divide interval velocity more.For example embodiment 13 adds the carbonic acid two-ethyl hexyl ester in the stronger PPG-3 myristyl ether alternate embodiment 10 of polarity, then product promptly tangible separating surface can occur leaving standstill in 5 minutes, and needs just to occur in 15-16 minute tangible separating surface among the embodiment 10.The example that the more weak white oil of polarity replaces the carbonic acid two-ethyl hexyl ester among the embodiment 10 is shown in embodiment 14, and the time that its layering needs is then about 25 minutes.
In addition, ambient-temp-stable property testing, heat resistant test and the freezing-thawing test to product 13 and 14 shows that product 13 and 14 is stable.
Embodiment 15-19
According to being respectively the prescription shown in the embodiment 15-19 in the last table,, promptly obtain cosmetic composition product 15-19 with all components mix homogeneously of each prescription.Be observed visually these products and all formed in 15-20 minute and have roughly isopyknic three layers, the separating surface between every layer is clear, and transparence evaluating is 1 fen.In addition, ambient-temp-stable property testing, heat resistant test and the freezing-thawing test to product 15-19 shows that product 15-19 is stable.
Above-mentioned experimental result explanation in order to obtain three coating systems, only has the painted effect of middle one deck, advantageously uses oil-soluble dyes.For example, embodiment 15 and 19 has equally used weld, but oil-soluble D﹠amp; C yellow N ° 11 is only painted to the intermediate layer, and water miscible D﹠amp; C yellow N ° of 5 pairs of lower two layers all have Color.
Above " trace " described in each table be meant: when being less than or equal to 100g for total composition, desire obtains dyeing district's purity and the medium product of lightness, and the use amount of dyestuff is generally less than 0.001g.