JP7470237B1 - Cleansing Water - Google Patents

Abstract

[Problem] To provide a new non-sticky PEG-free water-based composition that is stable during storage and non-irritating to the skin. [Solution] To provide a cosmetic composition comprising specific amounts of the following components (A) to (E): component (A): a polyglycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 8 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol having a glycerol polymerization degree of 5 to 7, component (B): a polyglycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 10 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol having a glycerol polymerization degree of 5 to 7, component (C): a liquid oil, component (D): sodium surfactin, and component (E): water. Also provided is a use of the cosmetic composition for enhancing the cleansing selectivity of a cosmetic product containing the cosmetic composition by efficiently cleansing the skin without removing the epidermal surface lipids of the skin that contribute to normal skin functions such as the barrier function and maintenance of healthy skin. [Selected Figure] Figure 1

Description

The present invention relates to an aqueous composition suitable for cleansing the skin, which is efficient, non-greasy, and selective towards epidermal surface lipids of human skin material, while being stable during storage. The present invention is also directed to the use of such an aqueous composition, and in particular to the use of an aqueous composition that enhances the cleansing selectivity of a cosmetic product containing it by efficiently cleansing the skin without removing the epidermal surface lipids of the skin that contribute to normal skin functions, such as barrier function and maintenance of healthy skin.

Cleansing requires a delicate balance between skin hygiene and damaging the stratum corneum barrier. The cleansing action is a complex physical and chemical interaction between water, detergents, and keratinous materials. Although cleansers are effective in maintaining skin hygiene and a healthy skin barrier, the surfactants they contain can cause damage because they cannot distinguish between lipophilic skin impurities that need to be removed and the lipophilic intercellular lipids that ensure the maintenance of the barrier. The bipolar structure of skin impurities resembles the fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides that make up the lipid bilayer of the stratum corneum.

In addition, a good cleansing product must thoroughly cleanse the skin from dust, lotions and make-up, as well as dirty sebum, sweat and exfoliated keratinous skin particles. To achieve this cleansing effect, the product must remove fat-soluble substances (sebum, creams and make-up), and water-soluble substances (sweat residues).

Furthermore, with recent lifestyle changes, consumers are looking for products that allow them to remove makeup efficiently, leaving a feeling of freshness and reduced stickiness, without taking too much time and preferably without the need for additional rinsing of the face. In addition, there is a particularly strong consumer demand for cosmetics with a higher level of naturalness, making it necessary to move towards alternative water-based cosmetics that are more respectful of the environment.

Since most makeup products are oil-soluble, the cleansing power of aqueous cleansing cosmetics such as cleansing lotions is often not as favorable as that of oil-type or emulsion-type cleansing cosmetics. Therefore, a technology for improving the cleansing power of aqueous cleansing cosmetics is desired. However, cleansing cosmetics containing a high concentration of surfactants are known to have a high cleansing effect but at the same time cause skin irritation. It is generally difficult to obtain a sufficient cleansing effect at a low surfactant concentration. There is a demand in the market for cosmetics that have a high cleansing effect despite a low surfactant concentration that hardly causes skin irritation.

In fact, a typical cleansing water is a solubilized aqueous solution containing less than 5% wt surfactant. Make-up impurities and sebum come into contact with the surfactant and need to be wiped off with a tissue or cotton pad to remove them. In addition, the surfactant is formulated in a low concentration so as not to cause stickiness. However, concerns remain about skin stress due to friction.

Among the surfactants, anionic and/or ethoxylated surfactants are known to be compatible with a wide range of formulation ingredients, thus giving flexibility to the formulation, making them the main ingredients in cleansing products. One of the most widely known examples of anionic surfactants is ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS). However, some anionic surfactants are no longer used in consumer products, since they are known to destroy the lipids of the stratum corneum and are not suitable for application to the skin. In fact, they are known to have a negative effect on the keratinocytes of the skin and cause irritation, especially if left on the skin, as is the case in leave-on cleansing products.

Anionic surfactants can be modified to make them less irritating. For example, ammonium lauryl sulfate can be "ethoxylated" by reacting it with ethylene oxide to produce ammonium laureth sulfate. This additional chemical treatment makes the final product significantly less irritating and slightly more water-soluble. However, "ethoxylated" surfactants are still criticized because of their environmental impact. As a result, there is particularly strong consumer demand for cosmetic products formulated with alternative surfactants that are more respectful of the skin and the environment.

Furthermore, these surfactants are unable to distinguish between sebum and oil-soluble skin impurities and the lipophilic substances that make up the intercellular lipids. One common technique that attempts to replenish some of the intercellular lipid components removed during cleansing is to add ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, and/or triglycerides to the cleanser. The problem with this approach is the short contact time between the cleanser and the skin. Although the cleanser remains on the skin for a short period of time to minimize stratum corneum protein damage, this short contact does not allow sufficient time for the active ingredients to penetrate and remain on the skin. Furthermore, if the ceramides do penetrate from the cleanser into the stratum corneum, the surfactants will also penetrate, causing accelerated barrier damage.

There remains a need for aqueous cleansing compositions that are non-irritating to the skin and remain stable over time while preserving the skin barrier by minimizing skin barrier damage.

The present invention provides an unexpected and advantageous solution to all these requirements by formulating a new specific surfactant that completely replaces the ethoxylated anionic surfactants that were said to be essential in the prior art. It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a new non-sticky PEG-free water-based composition that is stable during storage and non-irritating to the skin.

The new cosmetic composition overcomes these challenges by combining certain polyglycerol derivatives and Sodium Surfactin biosurfactant, a mild surfactant present at concentrations of less than 4%. These new cosmetic compositions have a bicontinuous structure and selectively emulsify and remove oleic acid, a major component of sebum.

Surfactin was named by Arima of the University of Tokyo. Surfactin is a substance derived from the culture medium of Bacillus subtilis, and its structure was determined by Kakiuchi et al. Surfactin is a lipopeptide with a cyclic peptide as the hydrophilic part and an alkyl side chain as the hydrophobic part. The aspartic acid and glutamic acid in the cyclic peptide have free carboxyl groups, and their sodium salts function as anionic surfactants.

Sodium surfactin also meets the ongoing need for sustainability and environmental friendliness in cosmetics. Thus, sodium surfactin is a highly biodegradable biosurfactant produced by microorganisms that does not contain any petroleum-derived components in its structure.

The present invention relates to the following components (A) to (E):
Component (A): polyglycerol fatty acid esters made from fatty acids having 8 carbon atoms and polyglycerols having a degree of glycerol polymerization of 5 to 7;
- Component (B): polyglycerol fatty acid esters made from fatty acids having 10 carbon atoms and polyglycerols having a degree of glycerol polymerization of 5 to 7;
- Component (C): liquid oil,
A cosmetic composition comprising: component (D): sodium surfactin; and component (E): water,
the total amount of component (A) and component (B) is 1 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition;
the mass ratio of component (C) to the total amount of components (A) and (B) ((C)/(A)+(B)) is 0.05 to 0.4;
Component (A) and component (B) have a mixed HLB of 12.4 to 14.2;
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, wherein the total amount of component (D) is 0.2 to 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above to increase cleansing selectivity towards oleic acid.

Sebum contains easily oxidized components such as oleic acid, and as their oxidation progresses, they become active aldehydes, which oxidize the stratum corneum on the surface of the skin, causing carbonylation of stratum corneum proteins. Carbonylation causes inflammation, leading to parakeratosis, irregular skin texture, and worsening transepidermal water loss. In addition, carbonylation can also cause opacification of the stratum corneum, such as dullness of the stratum corneum and darkening around pores.

It is to the inventors' credit that they have discovered that a combination of specific ingredients in an aqueous composition makes it possible to provide a storage-stable PEG-free cleansing composition that is completely non-irritating to the skin and more environmentally friendly.

By adding specific sodium surfactin and polyglycerin derivatives as anionic surfactants together with water and liquid oil, each component being present in a specific ratio, improved cleansing performance was achieved by spontaneous emulsification while ensuring reduced skin irritation and minimizing skin barrier damage by selective cleansing power. In particular, within the meaning of the present invention, the water-based composition is a bicontinuous microemulsion (BCME) that has excellent cleansing ability despite a higher water content. A higher water content in this sense is understood to mean that the water-based composition contains at least 88% wt (by weight) of water of the total weight of the composition. The BCME can be obtained by cold process, which means that the water constituting the majority of the composition can be used at room temperature. Nevertheless, the other components forming the BCME may be preheated. Room temperature in this sense is understood to mean a temperature of 20-25°C.

The composition may be highly fluid. The composition may have a viscosity of less than 100 mPas.

BCME has the unique behavior of spontaneously interacting with the oil layer to form an emulsion. This allows for more efficient dirt removal compared to common cleansing agents that work at the interface of the cleansing agent and oil alone. Therefore, the water-based composition uses the surfactant, sodium surfactin, and therefore does not contain polyethylene oxide and/or polypropylene oxide.

In contrast to normal micelles and emulsions, which contain an external and internal phase, BCMEs have no such separate phases. The specific composition of the water-based composition allows for self-emulsification, which inhibits physical irritation such as friction and reduces skin stress during cleansing.

In addition, it allows for selective cleansing of impurities without stressing the skin and does not strip the skin's epidermal surface lipids.

In fact, bicontinuous microemulsions (BCMEs) have a complex three-dimensional structure of water and surfactants/oils that are bicontinuous, and have low interfacial tension and high solubilizing power. Therefore, BCMEs have high cleansing ability, since they can easily contact makeup stains and remove them. By applying this bicontinuous microemulsion, a fast and high level of makeup removal from the skin is achieved without stressing the skin.

The present disclosure may be better understood, and its numerous features and advantages may become apparent to those skilled in the art, by reference to and accompanying drawings.

1 is a photograph obtained by cryo-FIB-SEM performed on the composition of Example 1 according to the present invention.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises the following components (A) to (E):
Component (A): polyglycerol fatty acid esters made from fatty acids having 8 carbon atoms and polyglycerols having a degree of glycerol polymerization of 5 to 7;
- Component (B): polyglycerol fatty acid esters made from fatty acids having 10 carbon atoms and polyglycerols having a degree of glycerol polymerization of 5 to 7;
- Component (C): liquid oil,
- component (D): sodium surfactin and - component (E): water,
the total amount of component (A) and component (B) is 1 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition;
the mass ratio of component (C) to the total amount of components (A) and (B) ((C)/(A)+(B)) is 0.05 to 0.4;
Component (A) and component (B) have a mixed HLB of 12.4 to 14.2;
The total amount of component (D) is from 0.2 to 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

Component (A)
Component (A) is an ester made from a fatty acid having 8 carbon atoms and glycerin with a degree of polymerization of 5-7, preferably 6.

Component (B)
Component (B) is a diester made from a fatty acid having 10 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of 5-7, preferably 6.

Polyglycerol fatty acid esters can be easily obtained by esterification of polyglycerol and fatty acid by conventional methods, or addition polymerization of fatty acid and glycidol. Esterification of polyglycerol and fatty acid can be carried out, for example, by heating polyglycerol and fatty acid in the presence of an acid catalyst (phosphoric acid, p-toluenesulfonic acid, etc.) or an alkali catalyst (sodium hydroxide, etc.) or in the absence of a catalyst, preferably at a temperature range of 100°C to 300°C, more preferably 120°C to 260°C, while removing water, but is not limited thereto. In addition, the reaction can be carried out in the presence of an inert gas. The ester obtained as described above can be purified according to its purpose. In addition to distillation techniques such as distillation under reduced pressure, molecular distillation, or steam distillation, extraction with an organic solvent, fractionation, or chromatographic separation using a column filled with a synthetic adsorbent or gel filtration agent can be used for purification. The polyglycerol fatty acid esters referred to here can be obtained by transesterification with polyglycerol using a fatty acid ester instead of a fatty acid.

The total amount of component (A) and component (B) is 1 to 15% by mass, preferably 2 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 3 to 5% by mass, of the total mass of the cosmetic composition. In addition, the combined HLB of component (A) and component (B) is 12.4 to 14.2, and preferably 13 to 14.

HLB, as used herein, refers to a value measured by the Griffin calculation method shown below, and the mixed HLB of component (A) and component (B) is calculated using additivity. Specifically, the mixed HLB, as used herein, is the weighted average of component (A) and component (B).
HLB=20(1−S/A);
S: saponification value of polyglycerol fatty acid ester, and A: neutralization value of raw material fatty acid.

Component (C)
Component (C) is a liquid oil. Examples of the liquid oil include hydrocarbon oil, ester oil, acylglycerol, ether oil, vegetable oil, silicone oil, etc. From the viewpoint of stickiness, ester oil is preferred.

Examples of hydrocarbon oils include hydrogenated polyisobutene, liquid paraffin, light liquid isoparaffin, squalane, undecane, tridecane, etc.

Examples of ester oils include isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, propylheptyl caprylate, (caprylate/caprylate) caprylate, (caprylate/caprylate) cap, and dicaprylate carbonate.

Acylglycerols include caprylic/capric triglyceride, tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, and glyceryl diisostearate.

Vegetable oils include camellia oil, avocado oil, almond oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, rice germ oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, soybean oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, palm kernel oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, and coconut oil.

The total content of the component (C) is 0.15% to 1.2% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 1% by mass, of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

The mass ratio of component (C) to the total amount of components (A) and (B), expressed as (C)/[(A)+(B)], is 0.05 to 0.4, preferably 0.25 to 0.35.

Component (D)
Sodium surfactin is a natural anionic surfactant with high biodegradability. Sodium surfactin is a peptide lipid composed of amino acids and fatty acids, and is produced by fermentation of Bacillus subtilis. However, due to its special structure, it can be somewhat unstable over time. By adding sodium surfactin together with other ingredients, both selective cleaning power and stability are achieved.

Furthermore, self-emulsification does not occur in BCME formulations that do not contain sodium surfactin. With self-emulsification, oil impurities are emulsified rather than merely solubilized. Within the meaning of the present invention, emulsification may incorporate greater amounts of impurities than solubilization.

The content of component (D) is 0.2% by mass to 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

Component (E)
Compound E may be water, such as demineralized water or floral water.

The content of component (E) is 88.5% by mass or more of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

Component (F)
The cosmetic composition may further comprise a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant as component (F) in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Component (F) may be a polyglycerol alkyl ether. The alkyl may be selected from alkyl chains containing 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

Bicontinuous Microemulsion (BCME)
Bicontinuous microemulsions and oil-in-water microemulsions have different structures. In the case of BCME, classical microemulsions are so-called swollen micelles that contain a small amount of oil. The external phase is the aqueous phase, and the internal phase is the oil phase. Thermodynamically, if oil is added to a stable one liquid phase, it will float on the liquid surface without diffusing into the internal phase. On the other hand, BCME has neither an internal nor an external phase. Both are independent and form a continuous phase. Therefore, BCME has a sponge-like structure. As a result, if water and/or oil are added, it can diffuse through each continuous region. Using this property, BCME is generally confirmed by a method called the dye method. If dyed oil and dyed water are added simultaneously, BCME will diffuse both. In classical microemulsions, dyed water will diffuse, but dyed oil will float.

In the past, the BC structure was observed using FF-TEM and other methods, but cryo-FIB-SEM, which can remove volatile components such as water by sublimation, has made it possible to obtain clearer images.

Bicontinuous microemulsions do not form particles and therefore particle size cannot be measured.

The bicontinuous structure was demonstrated by SAXS and cryo-FIB-SEM. Cryo-FIB-SEM is used because this method allows the removal of volatile components such as water by sublimation, making it possible to obtain clearer images, such as the image in Figure 1.

Figure 1 is a photograph obtained by cryo-FIB-SEM performed on the composition of Example 1 according to the invention (see Table 2, Example 1). The photograph captured two areas:
(a): The surface state after cryo-treatment with liquid nitrogen and subsequent sublimation treatment;
(b): The surface state after cryo-treatment with liquid nitrogen, followed by surface scraping with FIB, and then sublimation. The black areas in region (b) represent the components that have volatilized due to sublimation. In this case, it would be water. The white-grey areas are where the oil and surfactants are present.

In addition, two formulations (BCME-SF and BCME-0), one with and one without sodium surfactin, were used for all measurements. Different oils: oleic acid to model sebum stains, a mixture of dimethicone and esters to model makeup stains, and squalane were used as a model of one of the epidermal surface lipids that should not be removed from the skin. The interfacial behavior of the BCME formulations when in contact with oils was observed by digital microscopy. The dynamic interfacial tensions of the BCME formulations and oils were measured by the pendant drop method. The BCME structure was characterized by SAXS and cryo-FIB-SEM (not shown).

SAXS and cryo-FIB-SEM showed that BCME-SF has a sponge-like structure in which a large amount of water is trapped in the flexible surfactant bilayer network. It is known that bilayer structures with zero curvature generally reach a lower interfacial tension (γ), depending on the type of oil. Squalane and makeup stain models showed relatively high γ of 0.5-1 mN/m, while the γ of oleic acid-BCME-SF was undetectable with the device used here, i.e., less than 0.1 mN/m. In addition, BCME-SF showed a higher γ than BCME-0, suggesting that surfactin can selectively control the interfacial energy for the type of oil. In the case of squalane and makeup stain models, they were diffused and solubilized in the BCME-SF layer after contact. In contrast, when oleic acid (a model of the sebum intended to be removed) came into contact with BCME-SF, an emulsion was immediately formed.

While conventional water-based cleansers remove makeup stains by solubilization, BCME behaves in the opposite manner. When in contact with an oil layer, BCME preferentially becomes negative rather than positive in curvature, leading to penetration of BCME into the oil layer. The dynamic curvature change may be caused by the affinity of the surfactant hydrophobic chain with the oil, which may be related to the interfacial energy. The results show that BCME has a fairly low γ, but it should be noted that γ is oil-dependent. This slight difference in g is important for dynamic curvature changes, e.g., BCME penetration. Surfactin, which is added to BCME, plays an important role in γ and stability, selectively changing γ based on the oil. Thus, we have succeeded in developing a new stable formulation with surfactin that can selectively remove stains from the skin.

Epidermal surface lipids, within the meaning of the present invention, are derived from sebum. Lipids produced by the epidermis are a small fraction of the total extractable surface lipids. Human sebum is a mixture of non-polar lipids, mainly triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, fatty acids and smaller amounts of cholesterol, cholesterol esters and diglycerides. On the other hand, lipids produced by keratinocytes are a mixture of approximately equal proportions of free fatty acids (such as linoleic acid and alpha-linoleic acid), cholesterol and ceramides.

The cosmetic composition may contain at least one conventional additive in the art, such as at least one compound selected from emollients or moisturizers, oils, active agents, colorants, preservatives, antioxidants, activators, organic or inorganic powders, sunscreens, and fragrances.

- One or more moisturizing agents such as polyols (glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol), sugars, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters, and polyquaterniums such as Lipidure PMB.

The humectant may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 0.005 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

- esters such as jojoba esters, esters of fatty acids and esters of fatty alcohols (octyldodecyl myristate, triethylhexanoin, dicaprylyl carbonate, isostearyl isostearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride), butters such as shea butter (butyrospernum parkii butter extract, shea butter ethyl esters, available under the trade names LIPEX SHEASOFT, LIPEX SHEA-U, LIPEX SHEA, LIPEX SHEA LIGHT, LIPEX SHEA TRIS) or moringa (moringa oil/hydrogenated moringa oil esters), waxes (acacia decurrens flower wax & sunflower seed wax (helianthus annuus cera seed wax) One or more skin softeners may be selected from the group consisting of wax, C10-18 triglycerides, vegetable oils, phytosqualane, and alkanes (undecane, tridecane).

The emollient may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

- one or more film-forming agents, such as polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, gum sandarac, gum arabic (gum ACACIA SENEGAL), dammar, elemis, copal, cellulose polymers, polymers extracted from the fruits of Caesalpinia spinosa and/or from the algae Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the product Filmexel®), and mixtures thereof.

The film-forming agent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

- one or more colorants selected from pigments, pearlescent pigments, soluble dyes, preferably soluble in water. The pigments may be white or colored mineral and/or organic. The mineral pigments may be selected from zirconium or cerium oxide, and zinc oxide, iron or chromium oxide, titanium dioxide. The pearlescent pigments may be selected from titanium mica covered with iron oxide, titanium mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with organic dyes, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The water-soluble dyes may be selected from FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1.

The colorant may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 1 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

- One or more fillers selected from lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride and silica.

The filler may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

- for example vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbyl glucoside, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamins such as vitamin B3 or niacinamide, panthenol, oligoelements, allantoin, adenosine, peptides (commercially available under the trade names NP RIGIN, MATRIXYL 3000, IDEALIFT, EYESERYL, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-5), plant extracts (glycyrrhiza glabra extract, centella asiatica leaf extract, rye (secale cereal (seed extract), yeast extract, alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid or lactic acid, tranexamic acid and its derivatives such as tranexamic acid cetyl ester, etc., one or more active agents of natural, biotechnological or synthetic origin, having biological activity and having efficacy on the skin via a biological site.

The active agent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Other additives commonly used in cosmetics may also be present in the composition according to the invention, in particular preservatives, antioxidants or fragrances well known in the art.

From all of these possible additives, one skilled in the art can select both the nature and the amount of those added to the composition so that the composition retains all of its properties.

The cosmetic composition may be transparent.

The cosmetic composition may be a cleansing cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition may be a makeup cleansing product for the skin, more preferably a makeup cleansing product for the body and/or face.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used to increase cleansing selectivity for oleic acid.

In particular, cleansing selectivity is enhanced without removing the skin's epidermal surface lipids.

[Example 1]
Process for preparing the cosmetic composition of the present invention

Heat phase (A) to 70°C and stir evenly.
Heat phase (B) to 50°C and stir evenly.
Phase (C) at room temperature is added to phase (B) and stirred uniformly.
Add phase (B)+(C) to phase (A) and mix evenly.
Add phase (D) to phase (A)+(B)+(C) and mix evenly.
Thus, a water-based composition is obtained.

[Example 2]
Evaluation *Blend HLB: HLB refers to a value measured by Griffin's calculation method, and the blend HLB of component (A) and component (B) is calculated using additivity. In other words, the blend HLB is the weighted average of component (A) and component (B).

**Stability: 30 g of the composition was placed in a 50 mL vial and stored at 5, 20 and 40° C. for 3 months, and the appearance was observed.
1: No change in appearance 2: Change in appearance such as separation and/or turbidity

***Selective Cleansing: 30 g of the composition was placed in a 50 mL vial and 0.25 g of colored oil (oleic acid, squalane, isononyl isononanoate + dimethicone) was added and the appearance was observed after 1 day.
1: Oleic acid self-emulsifies, and other oils diffuse throughout the composition. 2: All oils diffuse throughout the composition. 3: None of the oils diffuse throughout the composition.

*** Cleansing ability: Mascara (waterproof type) was applied to Bioskin and left for 2 hours. The mascara was wiped off three times with the composition soaked in a cotton pad. The results of visual observation of how the mascara was removed were evaluated according to the evaluation criteria and determined as cleansing ability.
1: Falls sufficiently 2: Falls 3: Does not fall

Stickiness after wiping: The composition soaked in cotton was applied to the face by five expert panelists and the dry skin feel was rated according to the following four grades: The rating is the average of the ratings by the five panelists, and an average of 2.5 or higher can be rated as less sticky.
4: Not sticky 3: Slightly sticky 2: Sticky 1: Very sticky

The results of Examples 1 to 10 of the present invention are shown in Table 2.

All Examples 1-10 were prepared following the process steps of Example 1 as adapted for each composition.

Overall, the specific combination of compounds (A)-(E) in specific weight percents relative to the total weight of the composition results in a cosmetic composition that is stable over time without any change in appearance when stored at 5, 20 and 40°C for 3 months, that allows selective cleaning power against undesirable impurities without affecting the epidermal surface lipids of the skin, that efficiently removes undesirable impurities, and that provides efficient cleansing properties while avoiding stickiness after wiping.

These results can only be obtained when using the cosmetic composition of the present invention.

The results of Comparative Examples 1-13 are shown in the table below. Comparative Examples 1-13 were all prepared according to the process steps of Example 1 as applied to each composition.

Comparative examples CEX1-CEX8 show poor performance for each of the parameters tested.

If the total amount of components (A) and (B) is less than 1% by weight, this has a negative effect on the cleansing properties of the cosmetic composition.

If the total amount of component (A) and component (B) is greater than 15% by weight, this has a negative effect on the stickiness of the cosmetic composition after wiping.

The absence of component (C) has a negative effect on the cleansing properties of the cosmetic composition.

If the amount of component (D) exceeds 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, it has a negative effect on the stickiness of the cosmetic composition after wiping.

The absence of component (D) has a negative impact on the selective cleaning power of the cosmetic composition.
The present invention encompasses the following embodiments.
[1]
The following components (A) to (E):
Component (A): a polyglycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 8 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of 5 to 7;
Component (B): a polyglycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 10 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of 5 to 7;
Component (C): liquid oil,
Component (D): Sodium surfactin and
Component (E): Water
A cosmetic composition comprising:
the total amount of component (A) and component (B) is 1 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition;
the mass ratio of component (C) to the total amount of components (A) and (B) ((C)/(A)+(B)) is 0.05 to 0.4;
Component (A) and component (B) have a mixed HLB of 12.4 to 14.2;
A cosmetic composition, wherein the total amount of component (D) is 0.2 to 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[2]
The cosmetic composition according to [1], wherein the content of the component (E) is 88.5 mass% or more of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[3]
The cosmetic composition according to [1] or [2] above, further comprising a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant as component (F) in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[4]
The cosmetic composition according to the above [3], wherein the component (F) is a polyglycerol alkyl ether.
[5]
The cosmetic composition according to the above item [4], wherein the alkyl is selected from alkyl chains containing 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
[6]
The cosmetic composition according to any one of the above [1] to [5], wherein the total content of the component (C) is 0.15% by mass to 1.2% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[7]
The cosmetic composition according to any one of the above [1] to [6], which is transparent.
[8]
The cosmetic composition according to any one of the above [1] to [7], which is a cleansing cosmetic composition.
[9]
The cosmetic composition according to [8] above, which is a makeup cleansing product for the skin, more preferably a makeup cleansing product for the body and/or face.
[10]
Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [9] above for increasing cleansing selectivity for oleic acid.
[11]
The use according to [10], wherein the cleansing selectivity is enhanced without removing epidermal surface lipids of the skin.

Claims (9)

The following components (A) to (E):
Component (A): a polyglycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 8 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of 5 to 7;
Component (B): a polyglycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 10 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of 5 to 7;
Component (C): liquid oil,
A cleansing cosmetic composition comprising: component (D): sodium surfactin; and component (E): water,
the total amount of component (A) and component (B) is 1 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition;
the mass ratio of component (C) to the total amount of components (A) and (B) ((C)/(A)+(B)) is 0.05 to 0.4;
Component (A) and component (B) have a mixed HLB of 12.4 to 14.2;
the total amount of component (D) is 0.2 to 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition;
The content of the component (E) is 88.5% by mass or more of the total mass of the cosmetic composition,
A cleansing cosmetic composition, wherein the total amount of the component (C) is 0.15 to 1.2% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition . The cleansing cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant as component (F) in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The cleansing cosmetic composition according to claim 2 , wherein the component (F) is a polyglycerol alkyl ether. 4. The cleansing cosmetic composition according to claim 3 , wherein the alkyl is selected from alkyl chains containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms. 2. The cleansing cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of the component (C) is 0.5 to 1 % by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition. The cleansing cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , which is transparent. The cleansing cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , which is a makeup cleansing product for the skin. Use of the cleansing cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for increasing cleansing selectivity for oleic acid. 9. The use according to claim 8 , wherein the cleansing selectivity is increased without removing the epidermal surface lipids of the skin.