CN101268991A - 松弛或伸直头发的方法 - Google Patents
松弛或伸直头发的方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN101268991A CN101268991A CNA2008100853668A CN200810085366A CN101268991A CN 101268991 A CN101268991 A CN 101268991A CN A2008100853668 A CNA2008100853668 A CN A2008100853668A CN 200810085366 A CN200810085366 A CN 200810085366A CN 101268991 A CN101268991 A CN 101268991A
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- hair
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Classifications
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Landscapes
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- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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- Thermal Sciences (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
松弛或伸直头发的方法，包括步骤：(a)通过使头发与pH值为约8.0－约10.5的碱性组合物接触来预碱化头发，形成预碱化的头发；(b)任选地，冲洗掉预碱化头发上的碱性组合物；(c)提供头发伸直/松弛组合物，包含：(i)约0.1wt％－约50wt％的至少一种弱的非氢氧化物碱；和(ii)剩余补充至100％的化妆品可接受介质，所有重量基于头发伸直/松弛组合物的重量；(d)用头发伸直/松弛组合物接触头发，形成经处理的头发；(e)任选地，冲洗掉经处理的头发上的头发伸直/松弛组合物；(f)任选地，用不挥发性油接触经处理的头发；和(g)结合使用加热和物理理顺头发的工具，使经处理的头发顺滑。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及伸直或松弛头发的方法。
背景技术
想要更直、更易梳理的头发的人们已经将头发伸直或头发松弛产品商业应用逾50年。最商品化的头发松弛剂由使头发中的键断开的强氢氧化物碱组成。
仅仅基于诸如氢氧化钠和氢氧化锂的碱性金属氢氧化物的商品一般用于伸直或松弛卷曲/缠结头发。主要采用四种不同类型的碱性金属氢氧化物头发伸直剂：氢氧化钙、氢氧化锂、氢氧化钠和氢氧化钾。伸直产品一般快速应用，而且仅能在头发上保持非常有限的时间。由于这种产品的碱性，如果不适时从头发上冲洗掉该产品，就会损害头发，也会对头皮和头发周围的区域产生化学灼伤。
因此，本发明的目的是提供比传统方法更安全但同样有效的伸直或松弛头发的方法。
发明内容
本发明涉及包括以下步骤的伸直或松弛头发的方法：
(a)通过使头发与pH值为约8.5至约10.5的碱性组合物接触，将头发预碱化，形成预碱化头发；
(b)在预碱化头发上涂抹包含以下成分的头发伸直/松弛组合物：
(i)约0.1wt％-约50wt％至少一种弱的非氢氧化物碱；和
(ii)剩余补充至100％的化妆品可接受介质；
(c)任选地，冲洗掉头发上的头发伸直/松弛组合物；
(d)任选地，用不挥发性油接触已处理的头发，形成处理过的头发；和
(e)结合使用加热和物理理顺头发的工具，使已处理的头发顺滑。
具体实施方式
除操作实施例中或另外指明以外，表示成分的数量和/或反应条件的所有数字在所有实例中都应理解成用术语“约”修饰。
本发明人意想不到地发现，通过采用本发明的方法，可以按比传统头发伸直/松弛方法对使用者的皮肤和头发损伤更小的方式实现头发伸直/松弛。
采用大量氢氧化物的传统产品由于在所述产品中使用大量氢氧化物而容易引起皮肤过敏，并损害头发本身。然而，通过先预碱化头发，接着用弱的非氢氧化物碱产品处理头发，然后结合使用加热和物理理顺头发的工具来使头发顺滑，可以对皮肤和头发损伤更小的方式实现满意的头发伸直/松弛。
本发明的预碱化步骤涉及使用pH值为约8.0-约10.5，优选约8.5-约9.5的碱性组合物。任何常用的碱，无论是碱性氢氧化物或非氢氧化物都可采用，只要能形成pH值在上述范围内的碱性组合物即可。常用碱的准确用量取决于所选择的具体的碱。一旦头发经过预碱化，碱性组合物就可任选地冲洗掉。
预碱化步骤的目的是打开头发表皮，从而使头发更容易随后渗透非氢氧化物碱。由此使头发伸直/松弛方法更有效和更省时。
碱性组合物可以任何合适形式采用。其实例包括但不限于香波、调理剂或普通碱性溶液。在特别优选的实施方案中，碱性组合物是香波形式的，有利于同时预碱化和清洗头发。
用于本发明的合适的弱非氢氧化物碱是pKa为约0-约15，优选约1-约14，更优选约2-约13的那些碱。它们可从弱有机碱和弱无机碱中选择。
弱有机碱一般包括在水中不完全离解的含氮碱。其实例包括但不限于乙胺、亚乙胺、乙醇胺、喹啉、苯胺和环胺。
带有一个氮的5元环的实例包括但不限于吡咯啉、吡咯、吡咯烷及其衍生物。
带有两个氮的5元环的实例包括但不限于吡唑啉、咪唑烷、咪唑、咪唑啉及其衍生物。
带有一个氮的6元环的实例包括但不限于吗啉、吡啶、哌啶及其衍生物。
带有两个氮的6元环的实例包括但不限于哒嗪、嘧啶、吡嗪、哌嗪及其衍生物。
带有三个氮的6元环的实例包括但不限于三嗪及其衍生物。
尤其优选的弱有机碱包括1，2-乙二胺、一乙醇胺、咪唑、吡咯及其混合物。
弱无机碱一般包括诸如例如磷酸钠、磷酸钾、碳酸钠、碳酸氢钠、碳酸钾、碳酸氢钾的碱金属磷酸盐和碳酸盐及其衍生物。
弱无机碱还可包括诸如例如乙酸钠、乙酸钾、柠檬酸钠和柠檬酸钾的碱金属羧酸盐及其衍生物。
尤其优选的弱无机碱包括磷酸钾、磷酸钠和碳酸钠。
头发伸直/松弛组合物中弱的非氢氧化物碱用量一般为组合物总重量的约0.1wt％-约50wt％，优选约0.1wt％-约30wt％，更优选约0.1wt％-约10wt％。
本文所用术语“化妆品可接受介质”是本领域普通技术人员公知的，可包括例如水和/或至少一种有机溶剂。
在此公开的头发伸直/松弛组合物可以是例如粘稠的膏的形式以保持头发尽可能地硬。这些膏被制成例如基于硬脂酸甘油酯、硬脂酸乙二醇酯、自乳化蜡、脂肪醇、矿物油和凡士林的“重质”乳液形式。
还可采用含有诸如将头发“粘合”在一起并在存留期间保持头发顺滑状态的羧基乙烯基聚合物或共聚物的增稠剂的液体或凝胶。
在此公开的头发伸直/松弛组合物还可包含至少一种辅助剂，该辅助剂选自例如可溶性的、分散的和微分散的形式的硅氧烷；非离子、阴离子、阳离子和两性离子表面活性剂；神经酰胺、N-脂酰基鞘氨醇葡糖苷和假性神经酰胺；包括泛醇、除神经酰胺、N-脂酰基鞘氨醇葡糖苷和假性神经酰胺以外的蜡的维生素和维生素原；水溶性和脂溶性硅氧烷基和非硅氧烷基防晒制品、珠光剂和遮光剂、螯合剂、增塑剂、增溶剂、酸化剂、无机和有机增稠剂、抗氧化剂、含氧酸、渗透剂、香料和防腐剂。
在本发明组合物中采用表面活性剂的情况下，所述组合物可用作香波。类似地，在打算将本发明组合物用作头发调理剂的情况下，可在组合物中添加各种调节剂，以促进该头发处理性能。
用上述头发伸直/松弛组合物处理的头发的理顺包括结合使用加热与物理理顺头发的工具。实现顺滑所需热量应至少50℃；优选至少75℃；更优选至少100℃。所用热量的准确量将取决于组合物中存在的非氢氧化物化合物的浓度。这种热量可从例如吹风机或热/熨斗的任何合适来源发出。
物理理顺头发的工具可以是任何能物理理顺头发的设备，例如头发刷子或梳子。在一个实施方案中，理顺头发的工具也可起到热源作用，例如热/熨斗。
根据本发明的一个实施方案，提供了伸直或松弛头发的方法，包括以下步骤：(a)通过使头发与pH值为约8.5-约10.5的碱性组合物接触，将头发预碱化，形成预碱化头发；(b)使预碱化头发与上述头发伸直/松弛组合物接触，形成已处理头发；(c)任选地，在头发伸直/松弛组合物与头发已接触不到60分钟，优选不到40分钟，更优选不到30分钟，最优选不到20分钟后，从已处理头发上冲洗掉该组合物；(d)任选地，用选自植物油、动物油、矿物油和合成油的不挥发性油接触已处理的头发；和(e)结合使用加热和物理理顺头发的工具，使已处理的头发顺滑。
如上所述，该头发伸直/松弛组合物可留在头发上或被冲洗掉。如果采用不挥发性油，优选保留在头发上。
根据本发明的另一个实施方案，提供了伸直或松弛头发的方法，包括以下步骤：(a)通过使头发与pH值为约8.5-约10.5的碱性组合物接触，将头发预碱化，形成预碱化头发；(b)任选地，使预碱化头发与选自植物油、动物油、矿物油和合成油的不挥发性油接触；(c)结合使用加热和物理理顺头发的工具来理顺头发，形成顺滑的头发；(d)使顺滑的头发与头发伸直/松弛组合物接触，形成已处理头发；(e)任选地，在头发伸直/松弛组合物与头发已接触不到60分钟，优选不到40分钟，更优选不到30分钟，最优选不到20分钟后，从已处理头发上冲洗掉该组合物；和(f)任选地，结合使用加热与物理理顺头发的工具来理顺已处理的头发，形成顺滑的头发。
应该注意用不挥发性油接触头发和理顺头发的步骤可在涂抹头发伸直/松弛组合物前和/或后进行。
在商用的头发伸直或松弛组合物中，必须采用诸如氢氧化钠的高苛性氢氧化物化合物，以便无需加热就能满意地伸直/松弛头发。然而在本发明中，可采用低苛性和低浓度的非氢氧化物化合物，因为通过结合采用加热和能物理理顺头发的装置实现了协同效应。不希望受理论束缚，据信由于加热与物理理顺结合引起的头发蛋白质的诱导过收缩和变性，可实现头发伸直/松弛的协同效果。
此外，由于采用低苛性和低浓度的非氢氧化物化合物，当使用本发明的头发伸直/松弛组合物时，无需防护物质。市场上可获得的头发松弛产品往往要求发型师在头皮周围的皮肤上以及耳朵周边区域涂抹诸如凡士林的防护物质。防护物质用于防止在头发松弛产品接触皮肤时皮肤过敏。但采用本发明的方法时并不需要防护物质，因为非氢氧化物化合物的浓度和刺激性非常低。
本发明将从以下实施例更好地理解，所有实施例都仅用于举例说明用途，并不意味着以任何方式不适当地限制本发明的范围。
实施例
百分比伸直效率(％SE)用以下公式计算：
％SE＝(A/B)×100，其中A＝测量的最终长度(cm)，B＝头发的初始长度(10cm)(头发伸直时的全长)
以下实施例表示用各种协议(protocols)处理的头发的％SE。
实施例1
在本实施例中，用普通香波(15％ SLES，pH 4.34)或碱性香波(15％SLES，pH 9.65)预处理缠结的头发2分钟，冲洗10秒，抹干，然后浸在2％MEA溶液中(常温下10分钟或50℃下10分钟)，抹干，然后用熨斗以400°F伸直(3遍，每遍6秒)。然后用香波清洗头发，并以上述方式测定％SE。
| 对照物(未处理) | 酸性香波，室温下2％ MEA | 酸性香波，50℃下2％ MEA | 碱性香波，室温下2％ MEA | |
| ％SE | 46％ | 76％ | 83％ | 82％ |
结果表明，预碱化头发并用MEA室温处理头发能将％SE提高到与高温下用MEA处理头发相同的程度。
实施例2
按照实施例1的协议，预碱化缠结的头发，然后用各种吡咯烷溶液于室温下处理头发。％SE如下所示。
| 0.1％吡咯烷 | 0.5％吡咯烷 | 1％吡咯烷 | 4.1％吡咯烷 | |
| ％SE | 55％ | 77％ | 94％ | 97.5％ |
结果表明，随着环胺浓度增加，％SE也增加。
Claims (18)
1.伸直或松弛头发的方法，包括：
(a)通过使头发与pH值为约8.0-约10.5的碱性组合物接触，将头发预碱化，形成预碱化的头发；
(b)任选地，冲洗掉预碱化头发上的碱性组合物；
(c)提供头发伸直/松弛组合物，包含：
(i)约0.1wt％-约50wt％的至少一种弱的非氢氧化物碱；和
(ii)剩余补充至100％的化妆品可接受介质，所有重量基于头发伸直/松弛组合物的重量；
(d)用头发伸直/松弛组合物接触头发，形成经处理的头发；
(e)任选地，冲洗掉经处理的头发上的头发伸直/松弛组合物；
(f)任选地，用不挥发性油接触经处理的头发；和
(g)结合使用加热和物理理顺头发的工具，使经处理的头发顺滑。
2.权利要求1的方法，其中(c)(i)的用量为头发伸直/松弛组合物重量的约0.1-约30wt％。
3.权利要求1的方法，其中(c)(i)的pKa值约0-约15。
4.权利要求1的方法，其中(c)(i)是含氮的碱。
5.权利要求1的方法，其中(c)(i)是环胺。
6.权利要求1的方法，其中(c)(i)选自亚乙胺、乙醇胺、咪唑、吡咯及其混合物。
7.权利要求1的方法，其中(c)(i)是1，2-乙二胺和咪唑的混合物。
8.权利要求1的方法，其中(c)(i)是一乙醇胺和咪唑的混合物。
9.权利要求1的方法，其中(c)(i)选自碱金属磷酸盐、碱金属碳酸盐及其混合物。
10.权利要求1的方法，其中(d)进行不到约60分钟。
11.权利要求1的方法，其中(d)进行不到约20分钟。
12.权利要求1的方法，其中该方法的实施不采用防护物质。
13.权利要求1的方法，其中(f)选自植物油、矿物油、动物油和合成油。
14.权利要求1的方法，其中(c)(i)的用量为头发伸直/松弛组合物重量的约0.2-约15wt％。
15.权利要求1的方法，其中步骤(g)中采用的加热是至少约50℃。
16.权利要求1的方法，其中步骤(g)中采用的加热是至少约100℃。
17.权利要求1的方法，其中物理理顺头发的工具选自刷子和梳子。
18.权利要求1的方法，其中步骤(g)采用热/熨斗在至少约100℃温度下进行。
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| US4898726A (en) * | 1988-08-24 | 1990-02-06 | Johnson Products Co., Inc. | Initiated hair straightening composition and system |
| US5269962A (en) * | 1988-10-14 | 1993-12-14 | The Clorox Company | Oxidant composition containing stable bleach activator granules |
| JP2927526B2 (ja) * | 1989-10-13 | 1999-07-28 | 株式会社日本美容科学 | 毛髪セット加工用前処理剤 |
| US5293885A (en) * | 1991-07-11 | 1994-03-15 | Johnson Products Co., Inc. | Hair relaxer and post-relaxer hair brightener system |
| JPH05331029A (ja) * | 1992-05-27 | 1993-12-14 | Daicel Chem Ind Ltd | ウェービングローション及びその使用法 |
| JPH06192051A (ja) * | 1992-12-24 | 1994-07-12 | Hoyu Co Ltd | アイロンパーマ用第１剤 |
| US5565216A (en) * | 1993-07-21 | 1996-10-15 | Carson Products Company | Hair relaxer compositions |
| FR2708197B1 (fr) * | 1993-07-28 | 1995-09-08 | Oreal | Nouvelles compositions à base d'eau oxygénée et leur utilisation comme fixateurs pour permanentes. |
| JPH09132515A (ja) * | 1995-11-09 | 1997-05-20 | Seiji Maekawa | 縮毛矯正方法 |
| US5776443A (en) * | 1996-03-18 | 1998-07-07 | Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Hair care compositions |
| JP3522572B2 (ja) * | 1999-03-15 | 2004-04-26 | 株式会社ミルボン | 加熱式パーマネントウエーブ用第１剤およびそれを用いた縮毛に対する加熱式ストレートパーマの施術方法 |
| US20010023235A1 (en) * | 1999-05-14 | 2001-09-20 | Joanne Crudele | Heat-mediated conditioning from shampoo and conditioner hair care compositions containing silicone |
| BRPI0003166B1 (pt) * | 1999-07-16 | 2015-08-25 | Natura Cosmeticos Sa | Processo para estabilização de compostos antioxidantes, e composições aquosas |
| FR2816210B1 (fr) * | 2000-11-08 | 2005-02-25 | Oreal | Composition pour la decoloration ou la deformation permanente des fibres keratiniques comprenant un polyurethane associatif cationique |
| US6706674B2 (en) * | 2001-01-17 | 2004-03-16 | The Andrew Jergens Company | Nonaqueous hair styling composition and method of use |
| US6491902B2 (en) * | 2001-01-29 | 2002-12-10 | Salvona Llc | Controlled delivery system for hair care products |
| US20020110583A1 (en) * | 2001-02-15 | 2002-08-15 | Gary Grey | Hair cap with conditioner |
| US6805136B2 (en) * | 2001-11-02 | 2004-10-19 | Kenra, Llc | Hair relaxer |
| US20040122105A1 (en) * | 2002-09-20 | 2004-06-24 | Griscom Bettle | Transdermal compositions |
| US7638117B2 (en) * | 2003-01-29 | 2009-12-29 | Farouk Systems, Inc. | Hair transformation method |
| US20050048018A1 (en) * | 2003-08-29 | 2005-03-03 | Natasha Fadeeva | Methods for preventing reversion of relaxed keratinous fibers and for relaxing keratinous fibers |
| US20050186232A1 (en) * | 2003-11-18 | 2005-08-25 | Gerard Malle | Hair-relaxing composition comprising tetramethylguanidine |
| US20050125914A1 (en) * | 2003-11-18 | 2005-06-16 | Gerard Malle | Hair shaping composition comprising at least one- non-hydroxide base |
| FR2862211B1 (fr) * | 2003-11-18 | 2006-05-05 | Oreal | Composition de defrisage des cheveux comprenant au moins une base hors hydroxyde |
| US20050136016A1 (en) * | 2003-11-18 | 2005-06-23 | Gerard Malle | Hair-relaxing composition comprising at least one base other than hydroxide |
| US8603448B2 (en) * | 2006-06-05 | 2013-12-10 | L'oreal | Use of a non-hydroxide base with heat for relaxing or straightening hair |
| WO2009061909A2 (en) * | 2007-11-07 | 2009-05-14 | Rigel Pharmaceuticals, Inc. | Wet granulation using a water sequestering agent |
-
2007
- 2007-03-14 US US11/717,824 patent/US20080223392A1/en not_active Abandoned
-
2008
- 2008-03-03 KR KR1020080019631A patent/KR100944927B1/ko active IP Right Grant
- 2008-03-03 EP EP08300129.7A patent/EP1970099A3/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2008-03-10 MX MX2008003372A patent/MX2008003372A/es not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2008-03-13 JP JP2008064725A patent/JP2008222717A/ja active Pending
- 2008-03-14 CN CNA2008100853668A patent/CN101268991A/zh active Pending
- 2008-03-14 BR BRPI0801078-1A patent/BRPI0801078A2/pt not_active Application Discontinuation
-
2012
- 2012-11-05 JP JP2012243571A patent/JP2013032388A/ja not_active Withdrawn
- 2012-11-26 US US13/685,443 patent/US20130074862A1/en not_active Abandoned
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102231974A (zh) * | 2008-10-29 | 2011-11-02 | 欧莱雅 | 使用弱二元羧酸用热松弛或矫直毛发的方法 |
| US8513200B2 (en) | 2008-10-29 | 2013-08-20 | L'oreal | Process for relaxing or straightening hair, using weak dicarboxylic acids with heat |
| CN105726347A (zh) * | 2008-10-29 | 2016-07-06 | 欧莱雅 | 使用弱二元羧酸用热松弛或矫直毛发的方法 |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP2013032388A (ja) | 2013-02-14 |
| MX2008003372A (es) | 2009-02-26 |
| EP1970099A3 (en) | 2014-09-17 |
| BRPI0801078A2 (pt) | 2008-11-25 |
| US20130074862A1 (en) | 2013-03-28 |
| EP1970099A2 (en) | 2008-09-17 |
| KR20080084606A (ko) | 2008-09-19 |
| JP2008222717A (ja) | 2008-09-25 |
| US20080223392A1 (en) | 2008-09-18 |
| KR100944927B1 (ko) | 2010-03-03 |
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