WO2024070727A1 - Woven/knitted article - Google Patents

Woven/knitted article Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024070727A1
WO2024070727A1 PCT/JP2023/033527 JP2023033527W WO2024070727A1 WO 2024070727 A1 WO2024070727 A1 WO 2024070727A1 JP 2023033527 W JP2023033527 W JP 2023033527W WO 2024070727 A1 WO2024070727 A1 WO 2024070727A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fiber
woven
knitted fabric
fabric
fineness
Prior art date
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PCT/JP2023/033527
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French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
健太郎 小河
慎也 川原
康二郎 稲田
正人 増田
知彦 松浦
Original Assignee
東レ株式会社
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Application filed by 東レ株式会社 filed Critical 東レ株式会社
Publication of WO2024070727A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024070727A1/en

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01FCHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/14Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/30Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
    • D03D15/37Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments with specific cross-section or surface shape
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric that has high water droplet removal properties, and also has excellent comfort when moving and texture.
  • a water repellent treatment is widely used in which a water repellent agent containing a fluorine-based resin, silicone resin, or paraffin resin is applied to the surface of the fabric.
  • a water repellent agent containing a fluorine-based resin, silicone resin, or paraffin resin is applied to the surface of the fabric.
  • PFOA-free water repellents that do not use compounds that may have an adverse effect on living organisms (such as perfluorooctanoic acid and perfluorooctanesulfonic acid) have been proposed.
  • the woven and knitted fabrics described in Patent Documents 1 and 2 do not have the stretchability required to accommodate the vigorous movements made when worn, such as in casual or sportswear, and are insufficient in terms of comfort when moving around.
  • the fabric described in Patent Document 3 has stretchability due to the inclusion of elastic fibers in the composite yarn, but the texture is insufficient because non-crimped fibers are recommended as the ultrafine fibers that form fine fiber loops along with the elastic fibers. For this reason, there is a demand for the development of woven and knitted fabrics that can be used for a variety of purposes, which not only have the ability to remove water droplets, but also provide comfort when moving around and have a good texture.
  • the present invention aims to solve the problems of the conventional technology described above and provide a woven or knitted fabric that has high water droplet removal properties, is comfortable to wear, and has an excellent texture.
  • the present invention has the following configuration to solve the above problems.
  • a woven or knitted fabric comprising a mixed yarn having fiber A having a multi-lobal cross section with a convex portion on the outer periphery and fiber B having a flat cross section, and satisfying the following requirements: (1) The number of protrusions of the fiber A is 6 to 30. (2) The flatness of the fiber B is 1.1 to 5.0. (3) Fiber B has a finer fiber size than fiber A. (4) The woven or knitted fabric has crimps of the fiber B on the surface. (5) Both the fiber A and the fiber B are crimped fibers having a bimetallic structure containing two types of polymers. (6) The woven or knitted fabric has a surface with a water repellent.
  • [5] A woven or knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [4], in which the fineness of the fiber A is 0.5 to 5.0 dtex, and the fineness ratio expressed as the fineness of the fiber A [dtex] / the fineness of the fiber B [dtex] is 2.0 or more.
  • [6] A woven or knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [5] above, in which the ratio of the number of fibers B to the number of fibers A is 2 or more.
  • [7] A woven or knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [6], in which the surface occupancy rate of the blended yarn per unit area is 20% or more.
  • the present invention makes it possible to provide a woven or knitted fabric that has high water droplet removal properties, as well as excellent comfort when worn and texture.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the fiber cross-sectional structure of the sea-island composite fiber produced in Example 1.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic cross-sectional view of a composite spinneret for producing a sea-island composite fiber used in Example 1.
  • 1 is a schematic diagram of the cross-sectional structure of a mixed yarn contained in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric having a water repellent on the surface thereof, and includes as its constituent yarns a mixed yarn having fiber A, which has a multi-lobed cross section with a convex portion on the outer periphery, and fiber B, which has a flat cross section and a finer fiber than fiber A, and both fiber A and fiber B are crimped fibers having a bimetal structure containing two types of polymers. With this structure, latent crimping is made apparent by heat treatment such as dyeing, and a difference in crimping occurs between fiber A and fiber B, which have a difference in fineness.
  • the fine crimping of fiber B forms a lotus leaf-like uneven structure with a fine air layer on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, thereby providing excellent water droplet removal properties.
  • the woven or knitted fabric also has excellent operating comfort and a spun-like texture.
  • the effect of unevenness here refers to the effect of unevenness on the mixed fiber yarn itself, and refers to the uneven structure formed on the surface of the mixed fiber yarn itself as a result of the combination of large crimps of thick fibers and small crimps of thin fibers.
  • fiber A is a crimped fiber having a multi-lobal shape with a convex portion on the outer periphery of the cross section.
  • the polymer constituting the fiber A may be, for example, a melt-moldable polymer or copolymer thereof, such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polypropylene, polyolefin, polycarbonate, polyacrylate, polyamide, polylactic acid, thermoplastic polyurethane, or polyphenylene sulfide.
  • the melting point of the polymer it is preferable for the melting point of the polymer to be 165°C or higher, since this has good heat resistance.
  • biopolymers or recycled polymers derived from plants and the aforementioned polymers may be recycled polymers that have been recycled by any of the methods of chemical recycling, material recycling, or thermal recycling.
  • the fiber A is a crimped fiber in which these two types of polymers are combined in a bimetallic structure (including side-by-side and eccentric core-sheath types), and latent crimping becomes apparent through heat treatment such as dyeing. If the fiber A is not a bimetallic crimped fiber, it will lack stretchability and will not provide comfortable movement when made into clothing. In addition, by making fiber A into a bimetallic structure, the woven or knitted fabric will shrink, creating a difference in the crimp pitch with fiber B (described below), forming a more effective air layer and uneven structure on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, further improving water droplet removal and spun-like texture.
  • the fiber A may contain various additives in the polymer, such as inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica, barium oxide, etc., colorants such as carbon black, dyes, pigments, etc., flame retardants, fluorescent whitening agents, antioxidants, or ultraviolet absorbers.
  • inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica, barium oxide, etc.
  • colorants such as carbon black, dyes, pigments, etc.
  • flame retardants such as fluorescent whitening agents, antioxidants, or ultraviolet absorbers.
  • the cross section of the fiber A is a multi-leaf shape having 6 to 30 convex parts on the outer periphery.
  • the multi-leaf shape not only provides a spun-like texture, but also effectively reduces the contact area between water droplets and the fiber surface, even for the fiber A, which has a relatively large fineness, as described below, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric with excellent water droplet removal properties.
  • the convex parts are preferably uniformly arranged radially on the outer periphery of the fiber surface to prevent bias in water droplet removal properties. If there are fewer than six convex parts, the spacing between the convex parts will be wide, and the spun-like texture will not be obtained.
  • convex parts From the viewpoint of increasing the contact area with water droplets and obtaining sufficient water droplet removal properties, it is preferable that there are eight or more convex parts. On the other hand, if there are more than 30 convex parts, the convex parts will be easily cracked by physical effects such as friction when worn, causing fibrillation and resulting in a decrease in quality, and the spacing between the convex parts formed on the outer periphery of the fiber surface will be too fine, resulting in a shape that is close to a round cross section, reducing the effect on water droplet removal properties. It is more preferable that there are fewer than 15 convex parts. The number of convex parts can be measured by the method described in the Examples.
  • the fiber A has a relatively large fineness compared to the flat-shaped fiber B described later, and the fineness ratio of the fiber A to the fiber B represented by the following formula 1 is preferably 2.0 or more (more preferably 2.0 to 2000.0, particularly preferably 5.0 to 200.0).
  • the fineness ratio of the fiber A to the fiber B is 2.0 or more, a difference in shrinkage is easily generated between the fiber A and the fiber B, and fine irregularities and air layers are formed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, so that sufficient water droplet removal properties and a spun-like texture can be obtained.
  • the fineness ratio is more preferably 5.0 or more.
  • fineness ratio fineness of fiber A [dtex]/fineness of fiber B [dtex] (Equation 1).
  • the fineness of the fiber A is preferably 0.5 to 5.0 dtex.
  • the fineness of the fiber A is more preferably 1.0 dtex or more.
  • the fineness of the fiber A is 5.0 dtex or less, it is easy to obtain a shrinkage difference with the fiber B that is effective for water droplet removal, and the contact surface with the water droplets is small, so that higher water droplet removal properties can be obtained.
  • the fineness of the fiber A is more preferably 2.5 dtex or less. The fineness can be measured by the method described in the examples.
  • fiber B is a crimped fiber having a flat cross section.
  • the polymer constituting fiber B may be, for example, a melt-moldable polymer or copolymer thereof, such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polypropylene, polyolefin, polycarbonate, polyacrylate, polyamide, polylactic acid, thermoplastic polyurethane, or polyphenylene sulfide.
  • the melting point of the polymer it is preferable for the melting point of the polymer to be 165°C or higher, since this provides good heat resistance.
  • biopolymers or recycled polymers derived from plants and the aforementioned polymers may be recycled polymers that have been recycled by any of the methods of chemical recycling, material recycling, or thermal recycling.
  • the fiber B is a crimped fiber in which these two types of polymers are combined in a bimetallic structure (including side-by-side and eccentric core-sheath types), and the latent crimping becomes apparent through heat treatment such as dyeing. If the fiber B is not a crimped fiber with a bimetallic structure, the fiber B will not crimp, and the spun-like texture described below will not be obtained. Furthermore, the bimetallic structure of the fiber B further improves water droplet removal properties.
  • the fiber B may contain various additives in the polymer, such as inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica, barium oxide, etc., colorants such as carbon black, dyes, pigments, etc., flame retardants, fluorescent whitening agents, antioxidants, or ultraviolet absorbing agents.
  • inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica, barium oxide, etc.
  • colorants such as carbon black, dyes, pigments, etc.
  • flame retardants such as fluorescent whitening agents, antioxidants, or ultraviolet absorbing agents.
  • the cross section of the fiber B has a flat shape with a flatness of 1.1 to 5.0, which is different in length between the long axis direction and the short axis direction of the cross section.
  • a flat shape By crimping such a flat shape, not only can a spun-like texture that reproduces the twisted structure of cotton be obtained, but also the contact area between water droplets and the fiber surface can be effectively reduced, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric with excellent water droplet removability.
  • the "flatness” is a value obtained by calculating the average flatness of the fiber B contained in one of the mixed fiber yarns collected from the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention according to the following formula 2.
  • the flatness exceeds 5.0, the single yarn becomes too thin, the resilience when the mixed fiber yarn is bent decreases, and the spun-like texture cannot be obtained.
  • the contact surface between the water droplets and the fiber surface becomes too sharp to support the water droplets and grip them, thereby suppressing a reduction in the effect on water droplet removal, so the flatness is preferably 4.0 or less.
  • the flatness is possible to suppress fibrillation caused by physical effects such as friction during wearing, which leads to a decrease in quality.
  • the degree of flatness is less than 1.1, the fiber B will have a shape that is very close to a round cross section, and the effect of removing water droplets and providing a spun-like texture will be lost.
  • Flatness length of the cross section of fiber B in the major axis direction [ ⁇ m]/length of the cross section of fiber B in the minor axis direction [ ⁇ m] (Equation 2).
  • fiber B has a relatively finer fiber than fiber A, and it is preferable that the fineness ratio of fiber A to fiber B, as expressed by the above formula 1, is 2.0 or more in order to obtain a shrinkage difference with fiber A.
  • the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention includes a mixed yarn having the fiber A and the fiber B, and may include fibers other than the fibers A and B.
  • the type and shape of the fibers are not particularly limited.
  • the fiber A and the fiber B are both crimped fibers having a bimetal structure containing two types of polymers. It is preferable to use a bimetal yarn containing two types of polymers as the fiber other than the fiber A and the fiber B, because each fiber is likely to develop crimps when used in a woven or knitted fabric.
  • the blended yarn preferably has a total fineness in the range of 10 to 300 dtex (more preferably, 20 to 240 dtex, and particularly preferably, 30 to 150 dtex).
  • the blended yarn preferably has a ratio of the number of fibers A to the number of fibers B, represented by the following formula 3, of 2 or more.
  • a ratio of the number of fibers A to the number of fibers B exposed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is increased, thereby obtaining a better spun-like texture.
  • the ratio of the number of fibers is more preferably 5 or more.
  • the ratio of the number of fibers 50 or less by making the ratio of the number of fibers 50 or less, a significant deterioration in quality, such as fibrillation and pilling, caused by the relatively thin fiber B exposed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric can be suppressed.
  • the mixed yarn is particularly preferably non-twisted, which can maximize the difference in crimp between the fiber A and the fiber B, but may be twisted to a twist coefficient of 35,000 or less, as expressed by the following formula 4, if necessary.
  • the number of twists is preferably within a range of 100 to 2,000 T/M.
  • Twist coefficient number of twists [T/M] ⁇ (fineness [de]) 1/2 ... (Equation 4).
  • the woven or knitted fabric in the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric containing the mixed yarn, and has the crimp of the fiber B on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.
  • the "crimp" means a three-dimensional twisted structure (including a coil shape) or a loop structure obtained by false twist processing, air processing (interlace processing or taslan processing), a fiber with a bimetal structure in which two types of polymers are bonded together, etc., and is not particularly limited.
  • the latent crimp of the fiber A and the fiber B with a bimetal structure becomes apparent, and the woven or knitted fabric shrinks, and a woven or knitted fabric with stretchability excellent in operating comfort can be obtained.
  • a crimp difference occurs between the fiber A and the fiber B, which have a difference in fineness, and the fiber A and the fiber B are separated, creating a space in the mixed yarn, and the fine crimp of the relatively thin fiber B forms a lotus leaf-like uneven structure with a fine air layer on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, thereby obtaining excellent water droplet removal properties.
  • the fine uneven structure caused by the difference in shrinkage between the fiber A and the fiber B gives the woven or knitted fabric a fine spun texture like that of extra-long staple cotton on its surface.
  • the higher the ratio of the mixed fiber yarn contained in the woven or knitted fabric the more stretchability due to the bimetal structure can be obtained, and the more comfortable it is to move around when made into clothing.
  • the higher the ratio of the mixed fiber yarn exposed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric the more fine air layers and uneven structures are formed on the surface, resulting in excellent water droplet removal properties and a spun-like texture.
  • the surface occupancy rate of the mixed fiber yarn per unit area is 20% or more (particularly preferably 100%).
  • surface occupancy rate refers to the proportion of the mixed fiber yarn on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.
  • the ratio is above this level, for example, even when the fabric is made into a woven fabric, it is possible to form an uneven structure of the mixed fiber yarn on the surface of the fabric that is effective for high water droplet removal properties and a better spun-like texture, and higher comfort can be obtained.
  • fibers to be combined with the blended yarn when making a woven or knitted fabric fibers that have been false-twisted or air-processed (interlaced or taslan processed), fibers with a bimetal structure in which two types of polymers are bonded together, or fibers that combine these, are preferred because they are less likely to impair the stretchability, crimping, and spun-like touch of the blended yarn.
  • the knit structure is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include circular knit, weft knit, warp knit (including tricot knit and raschel knit), pile knit, plain knit, jersey knit, rib knit, smooth knit (double-sided knit), rubber knit, pearl knit, Denbigh weave, cord weave, atlas weave, chain weave, and insertion weave.
  • Any structure may be used for both woven and knitted fabrics, but a structure that is more likely to produce unevenness such as a twill weave than a plain weave makes it easier for the mixed fiber yarn to shrink and makes it easier for a fine air layer and uneven structure to be formed on the surface.
  • a structure in which the mixed yarn appears mostly on the surface is desirable.
  • the fabric preferably has a warp-to-warp total cover factor (CF) of 1000 to 3500, as expressed by the following formula 5.
  • CF warp-to-warp total cover factor
  • the total cover factor (CF) is more preferably 1500 or more.
  • the total cover factor (CF) is 3500 or less, the fine air layers and uneven structure of the mixed yarn described above are not lost due to excessive restraint force at the weaving points, making it possible to obtain excellent water droplet removal properties, operating comfort, and spun texture.
  • the total cover factor (CF) is more preferably 2800 or less.
  • total warp fineness [de] 1/2 ⁇ warp weave density [pieces/2.54 cm] + total weft fineness [de]) 1/2 ⁇ weft weave density [pieces/2.54 cm] ...
  • total warp fineness [de] is a value expressed by the formula: total warp fineness [dtex] x 0.9
  • total weft fineness [de] is a value expressed by the formula: total warp fineness [dtex] x 0.9.
  • the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a water repellent on its surface.
  • having a water repellent on its surface means that the woven or knitted fabric has substantial water repellency, and examples of such include a water droplet slide angle on the fabric surface of the woven or knitted fabric being less than 90 degrees.
  • a water repellent yarn may be used, or the water repellent may be added to the woven or knitted fabric during dyeing.
  • water repellent that gives the woven or knitted fabric water droplet removal properties
  • PFOA perfluorooctanoic acid
  • LC-MS high performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometer
  • examples of such water repellents include C6 water repellents (also called C6-based water repellents, but referred to as C6 water repellents in the present invention) and non-fluorine-based water repellents, and non-fluorine-based water repellents are particularly preferable from the viewpoint of recyclability.
  • C6 water repellent is a fluorine-based water repellent made of a fluorine compound having a perfluoroalkyl group, and the number of carbon atoms in the perfluoroalkyl group is 6 or less.
  • a perfluoroalkyl group is a group in which two or more hydrogen atoms of an alkyl group are replaced with fluorine atoms.
  • a non-fluorine-based water repellent is a water repellent that does not contain a fluorine compound and is mainly composed of a perfluoroalkyl group.
  • non-fluorine-based water repellents include silicone-based water repellents and paraffin-based water repellents, and these water repellents may be mainly composed of silicone-based compounds or paraffin-based compounds.
  • the concentration of the water repellent applied is preferably 0.1 to 1% by mass (more preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by mass, and particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.5% by mass), which does not impair the spun-like texture of the blended yarn and provides excellent water droplet removal properties.
  • the woven or knitted fabric thus obtained contains the blended yarn, and the fine crimp of fiber B forms an uneven structure with fine air layers on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.
  • This not only provides excellent water droplet removal properties like the lotus leaf effect when water droplets fall on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and a spun-like texture, but also excellent operating comfort due to the bimetal structure of fiber A and fiber B.
  • the water droplet sliding angle of the fabric surface of a woven or knitted fabric is preferably 1 to 45 degrees. If the water droplet sliding angle is 45 degrees or less, when used in clothing, for example, water droplets are less likely to remain on the woven or knitted fabric when worn, and excellent water droplet removal properties can be obtained without causing discomfort such as a wet feeling. In particular, if the water droplet sliding angle is 15 degrees or less, extremely high water droplet removal properties can be obtained, with almost no water droplets remaining on the woven or knitted fabric when worn.
  • the "water droplet sliding angle” refers to the angle at which water droplets begin to slide down when water droplets are gently dropped onto the surface of a woven or knitted fabric attached in a flat manner to a horizontal plate and the plate is gently tilted at a uniform speed, and the smaller the water droplet sliding angle, the better the water droplet removal properties.
  • the water droplet sliding angle is measured by dropping a 20 ⁇ L water droplet onto the surface of the woven or knitted fabric using a fully automatic contact angle meter (DM-SA, manufactured by Kyowa Interface Science Co., Ltd.), gently tilting the fabric from 0 degrees at a constant speed in 1 degree increments, and measuring the angle at which the water droplet completely slides off the woven or knitted fabric surface.
  • DM-SA fully automatic contact angle meter
  • the water droplet sliding angle of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention on the fabric surface after repeated washing is preferably 1 to 60 degrees, and more preferably 1 to 45 degrees.
  • repeated washing here refers to washing according to the JIS L1930:2014-C4M method and drying according to Method A (line drying) repeated 20 times.
  • the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention when it is made into clothing, it is preferable that the woven/knitted fabric follows various movements while being worn, so that the pressure from the woven/knitted fabric, such as a feeling of pressure or tension, which is called clothing pressure, is not felt, and the fabric exhibits excellent stretchability with excellent movement comfort.
  • the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention contains the mixed fiber yarn, and the mixed fiber yarn has fiber A and fiber B in which crimping due to a bimetal structure is expressed, so that the woven/knitted fabric also has excellent stretchability with excellent movement comfort.
  • the elongation rate in the warp or weft direction of the woven/knitted fabric is preferably 10 to 100%.
  • the stretchability referred to here means the elongation rate in the warp or weft direction of the woven/knitted fabric measured by JIS L1096:2010 8.16.1 Method B or Method D, and the higher the elongation rate, the better the movement comfort.
  • the clothing pressure from the woven/knitted fabric is not strongly felt, and movement while being worn is less hindered.
  • the elongation rate is 20% or more, the clothing pressure from the woven/knitted fabric is hardly felt, and more excellent movement comfort can be obtained.
  • a blended yarn is prepared by the following method, which has fiber A, whose cross section has a multi-lobed shape with convex portions on the outer periphery, and fiber B, whose cross section has a flat shape.
  • the method for producing the blended yarn is not particularly limited.
  • a sea-island composite fiber having fiber A and fiber B as island components may be blended by dissolving the sea component through an alkali weight reduction treatment during dyeing, or fiber A and fiber B may be aligned and air-blended through air processing (interlace processing or taslan processing).
  • a method using a sea-island composite fiber that can blend fiber A and fiber B without bias in the arrangement in the yarn bundle is particularly preferred, and is also favorable from the viewpoint of productivity since it does not require yarn processing such as air processing.
  • the method for weaving and knitting the woven or knitted fabric containing the blended fiber yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and the fabric can be woven or knitted by a conventional method.
  • the woven or knitted fabric is a woven fabric
  • examples of the method include a water jet loom, an air jet loom, a rapier loom, and a jacquard loom.
  • examples of the method include a circular knitting machine and a warp knitting machine.
  • the woven or knitted fabric obtained by this weaving and knitting method can then be refined and dyed in the usual manner, and the heat treatment in these processes makes the latent crimp of fiber A and fiber B, which have a difference in fineness, apparent, and a fine air layer and an uneven structure of fiber B due to the difference in crimp are formed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.
  • the sea component is dissolved from the sea-island composite fiber to produce the mixed fiber yarn, it is preferable to weave or knit the sea-island composite fiber as it is, and then dissolve the sea component by an alkali reduction treatment or the like after the scouring treatment to produce a woven or knitted fabric containing the mixed fiber yarn.
  • the woven or knitted fabric is treated with a water-repellent finish, but if necessary, flame retardant, moisture absorbent, antistatic, antibacterial, soft finish, and other known post-treatments (including resin coating, film lamination, and other treatments that impart functions) can be used in combination, and the washing durability of functional finishes such as flame retardant, moisture absorbent, antistatic, antibacterial, and soft finish agents can also be improved.
  • the water-repellent treatment process is not particularly limited to padding, spraying, coating, and the like, but the padding method is preferred in terms of penetrating the agent into the woven or knitted fabric.
  • the woven or knitted fabric does not use yarn with water-repellent properties and is not treated with a water-repellent finish, water droplets easily penetrate into the fine air layer on the surface made of the mixed yarn, and water droplet removal cannot be achieved.
  • Fineness A-1 Raw yarn Approximately 1 m of raw yarn to be used was taken, and the mass per unit length was measured in an environment of 20°C temperature and 65% RH, and the mass equivalent to 10,000 m was calculated from the measured value. This measurement was repeated 10 times, and the simple average value was rounded off to the first decimal place to determine the fineness of each yarn.
  • Fibers A and B constituting woven and knitted fabrics Fibers to be measured were taken from the woven or knitted fabric so that the total length was about 1 m, and the mass per unit length was measured in an environment of 20°C and 65% RH, and the mass equivalent to 10,000 m was calculated from the measured value. This measurement was repeated 10 times, and the simple average value was rounded off to one decimal place to obtain the fineness of each fiber.
  • the degree of water droplet sliding after repeated washing was measured using the method described above on a woven or knitted fabric sample that had been washed 20 times using the JIS L1930:2014-C4M method and dried 20 times using the A method (line drying).
  • J. Spun-like texture The spun-like texture of the woven or knitted fabrics obtained was judged as follows, and the most common judgment among the evaluations by 10 randomly selected people was recorded as the result. When there were multiple most common judgments, the intermediate evaluation was recorded. ⁇ : A fine spun-like texture like extra-long staple cotton is felt very much. ⁇ : A fine spun-like texture like extra-long staple cotton is felt to some extent. ⁇ : A fine spun-like texture like extra-long staple cotton is not felt at all.
  • the obtained woven and knitted fabric was used to create an outer jacket for mountain climbing.
  • the outer jacket was worn in a laboratory simulating a rainy environment (200 ml/10 min), and the following judgments were made after rainfall. The most common judgment among the evaluations by 10 randomly selected people was taken as the result. If there were multiple most common judgments, the intermediate evaluation was taken as the result.
  • the size of the outer jacket to be worn was set to a size (S, M, L) that suited each body type based on JIS L4004:2001 9.
  • S, M, L a size that suited each body type based on JIS L4004:2001 9.
  • Almost no water droplets on the surface, and water droplet removal is good.
  • The surface is not wet, but some water droplets remain.
  • The surface is wet to some extent, and water droplet removal is poor.
  • polymer A polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 8 mol % of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid based on the total dicarboxylic acid components and 9 wt % of polyethylene glycol based on the total mass (SSIA-PEG copolymerized PET, melt viscosity: 100 Pa ⁇ s [measurement conditions: temperature 290°C, shear rate 1216 s -1 ], melting point: 233°C), as polymer B, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 7 mol % of isophthalic acid (IPA copolymerized PET, melt viscosity: 140 Pa ⁇ s [measurement conditions: temperature 290°C, shear rate 1216 s -1 ], melting point: 232°C), and as polymer C, polyethylene terephthalate (PET, melt viscosity: 130 Pa ⁇ s [measurement conditions: temperature 290°C, shear rate 1216 s -1 ], melting
  • polymers were melted separately at 290°C, and then weighed out to a mass ratio of polymer A/polymer B/polymer C of 10/45/45.
  • the polymers were fed into a spin pack incorporating the composite spinneret shown in Figure 2, and the inflowing polymers were discharged from the discharge holes.
  • polymer B and polymer C which are difficult-to-dissolve components, were joined side-by-side, and island component b1 (1 piece) with an eight-lobe cross-sectional structure having eight uniformly arranged radial convex portions and island component b2 (8 pieces) with a flat cross-sectional structure were joined by sea component a made of polymer A consisting of an easily soluble component.
  • Figure 2 is a cross-sectional conceptual diagram of the composite spinneret, and polymers A to C measured by the metering plate 1 are each controlled by the distribution plate 2 to have a composite cross section and its cross-sectional shape in the cross section of a single fiber, and the composite polymer flow formed by the distribution plate 2 is compressed and discharged by the discharge plate 3.
  • a sea-island composite fiber with a circular cross-sectional shape as shown in Figure 1 was obtained.
  • the discharged composite polymer flow was cooled and solidified, after which an oil agent was added, and the flow was wound up at a spinning speed of 1500 m/min.
  • the flow was then stretched between rollers heated to 90°C and 130°C to obtain a sea-island composite fiber of 84 dtex-24 filaments. Note that after the sea component a is dissolved, the island part b1 corresponds to fiber A, and the island part b2 corresponds to fiber B.
  • the resulting sea-island composite fibers were used as warp and weft in an air jet loom to produce a 2/1 twill fabric.
  • the resulting fabric was continuously scoured, heated to 90°C using a 1% by mass aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide in a jet dyeing machine to remove the sea component (weight loss of 10%), relaxed in the jet dyeing machine at 130°C for 30 minutes, and then subjected to an intermediate set at 180°C for 1 minute with a tenter extension ratio of 5%, before being subjected to a normal dyeing process.
  • the fabric was immersed in a treatment solution containing 4% by weight of "Neoseed” (registered trademark) NR-158 (Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd., non-fluorine-based (paraffin-based) water repellent, solid content 30%), 0.2% by weight of "Beckamin” (registered trademark) M-3 (DIC Corporation), 0.15% by weight of Catalyst ACX (DIC Corporation), 1% by weight of isopropyl alcohol, and 94.65% by weight of water, and then squeezed to a squeezing rate of 60% using a mangle.
  • the fabric was then dried at 130°C for 2 minutes using a pin tenter, and cured at 170°C for 1 minute to perform a water repellent treatment.
  • a 2/1 twill fabric was obtained, which has a warp density of 172 threads/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 threads/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2598, and is made of a mixed yarn in which fiber A4 and fiber B5 are separated.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 2 A 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 104 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 87 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2590 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the method of discharging the sea-island composite fiber was changed to obtain a sea-island composite fiber of 227 dtex-24 filaments so that the fineness ratio of fiber A to fiber B in the mixed yarn obtained in Example 1 was 1.5.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 3 A 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 102 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 85 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2596 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the numbers of island components b1 and b2 in the sea-island composite fiber having an elliptical cross section of Example 1 were changed to five each to obtain a sea-island composite fiber of 238 dtex-24 filaments. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 4 The same method as in Example 1 was used to weave the fabric described in Example 1, except that polyethylene terephthalate multifilaments (76 dtex-24 filaments) having a round cross section were used as the warp yarns and the sea-island composite fibers of Example 1 were used as the weft yarns, thereby obtaining a 4/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2602.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 5 The same method as in Example 4 was used to weave the fabric described in Example 4, except that the weave structure was changed to an 8-ply, 5-leaf skip satin weave, to obtain an 8-ply, 5-leaf skip satin weave with a warp density of 172 threads/2.54 cm, a weft density of 142 threads/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2594.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 6 A mixed yarn (222 dtex-72 filaments) was obtained by taslan processing using the sea-island composite fiber obtained in Example 1 as a sheath yarn and a multifilament (138 dtex-48 filaments) having a round cross section made of an elastic fiber in which polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate were composited into a side-by-side bimetal structure as a core yarn.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 7 A sea-island composite fiber was produced in the same manner as in Example 1, and the fiber was used to produce a knitted fabric with a smooth structure on a 28G circular knitting machine.
  • the knitted fabric was continuously scoured, heated to 90°C using a 1% by mass aqueous sodium hydroxide solution in a jet dyeing machine to remove the sea component (weight reduction rate: 10%), and subjected to a relax process at 130°C for 30 minutes in the jet dyeing machine, and then subjected to an intermediate set condition at 180°C for 1 minute with a tentering rate of 5%, followed by a normal dyeing process.
  • the knitted fabric was immersed in a treatment solution containing 4% by mass of "NEOSEED” (registered trademark) NR-158 (manufactured by NICCA Chemical Co., Ltd., non-fluorinated (paraffin-based) water repellent, solid content 30%), 0.2% by mass of "BECKAMINE” (registered trademark) M-3 (manufactured by DIC Corporation, solid content 80%), 0.15% by mass of Catalyst ACX (manufactured by DIC Corporation), 1% by mass of isopropyl alcohol, and 94.65% by mass of water, and then squeezed out at a squeezing rate of 60% using a mangle, dried at 130°C x 2 minutes using a pin tenter, and cured at 170°C x 1 minute to obtain a smooth knitted fabric.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 8 A 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 172 threads/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 threads/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2535 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the sea-island composite fiber obtained in Example 1 was false twisted at a ratio of 1.05 to form a false twist textured yarn of 80 dtex-24 filaments.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 1 A 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 102 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 85 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2596 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the extrusion method was changed so that the island components b1 and b2 of the sea-island composite fiber obtained in Example 1 had the same fineness, to obtain a sea-island composite fiber of 238 dtex-24 filaments.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 2 A 2/1 twill fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, and then a 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 172 threads/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 threads/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the water-repellent treatment after dyeing was not performed.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 3 A 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the sea-island composite fibers in Example 1, whose cross section was elliptical, were changed to island component b1 having a circular cross section having no convex portions.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 4 A 2/1 twill fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, with a warp density of 171 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2590, except that the island component b1 was changed to a trilobal cross section having three uniformly arranged convex portions from the sea-island composite fiber of Example 1 having an elliptical cross section.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 5 A 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the sea-island composite fiber in Example 1, which had an elliptical cross section, was changed to a perfect circle by reducing the flatness of island component b2 so that the flatness of fiber B after leaching would be 1.0.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 6 A 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the sea-island composite fiber of Example 1 having an elliptical cross section was changed to a flatter cross section with an increased flatness of island component b2 so that the flatness of fiber B after leaching would be 7.0.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 7 A 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 144 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2607 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the extrusion method was changed so that the island component b1 of the sea-island composite fiber obtained in Example 1 was composed only of polymer B. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 8 A 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the extrusion method was changed so that the island component b2 of the sea-island composite fiber obtained in Example 1 was composed only of polymer B. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 9 The woven fabric described in Example 1 was continuously scoured, then heat-set at 200°C for 1 minute with a tentering ratio of 2%, and heated to 90°C using a 1% by mass aqueous sodium hydroxide solution in a jet dyeing machine to remove the sea component (weight loss rate: 10%), and a 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 171 threads/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 threads/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2590 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the relaxation processing was not performed.
  • the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • the woven fabrics of Examples 1 to 6 and 8, and the knitted fabric of Example 7 are excellent in spun-like texture, water repellency, and operating comfort.
  • the woven fabrics of Examples 1 and 6 and the knitted fabric of Example 7 are water-repellent woven and knitted fabrics made only from blended yarns containing bimetallic fiber A and fiber B with different fineness and number, by controlling the number of convex parts of fiber A in the cross-sectional shape and the flatness of fiber B within a preferred range, and an uneven structure with fine air layers formed by the crimp of fiber B on the surface is formed very effectively, resulting in a highly practical woven and knitted fabric that is excellent in all of the spun-like texture, water droplet removal, and operating comfort.
  • the woven fabric of Example 8 is further excellent in all of the spun-like texture, water droplet removal, and operating comfort, thanks to the effect of fine crimping caused by false twisting.
  • the woven fabric of Comparative Example 1 was inferior in texture and water droplet removal properties because there was no difference in fineness between fiber A and fiber B and no uneven structure due to shrinkage difference was formed.
  • the woven fabric of Comparative Example 2 was a woven fabric with no water droplet removal properties because it absorbed water droplets due to the lack of water repellency treatment.
  • the woven fabrics of Comparative Examples 3 and 4 were woven fabrics with poor texture and water droplet removal properties because the number of convex parts of fiber A was 0 and 3, respectively.
  • the woven fabric of Comparative Example 5 was a woven fabric with poor texture and water droplet removal properties because fiber B had a flatness of 1.0 and a perfect circle shape.
  • the woven fabric of Comparative Example 6 was a woven fabric with poor texture because fiber B had a large flatness of 7.0 and fiber B was too thin.
  • the woven fabric of Comparative Example 7 was a woven fabric with poor texture because fiber A did not have a bimetal structure containing two types of polymers, and therefore had an elongation rate of 5%, which was not at a level that would provide a comfortable fit when used in clothing, and was inferior in operating comfort.
  • the fabric of Comparative Example 8 was inferior in texture, water droplet removal, and operating comfort because fiber B did not have a bimetal structure containing two types of polymers and therefore did not have any crimp of fiber B.
  • the fabric of Comparative Example 9 was inferior in texture, water droplet removal, and operating comfort because the potential crimp of fiber A and fiber B of the blended yarn could not be expressed by heat setting at high temperature after continuous scouring, and therefore did not have an uneven structure due to the difference in crimp or crimp of fiber B on the fabric surface.
  • the water-repellent woven/knitted fabric of the present invention has high water repellency due to the inclusion of the blended yarn having the above-mentioned characteristics, and also has excellent stretchability and spun-like texture that is comfortable to wear, so that the use of this water-repellent woven/knitted fabric can be used to produce clothing and textile products with excellent functionality and texture.
  • Such clothing and textile products can be extremely suitably applied to a wide range of fields, from general casual clothing such as down jackets, jackets, skirts, pants, T-shirts, and sweaters, to various sports clothing for mountain climbing, skiing, golf, running, etc., work outerwear and dustproof clothing for civil engineering work, uniform clothing such as medical gowns, interior products such as sofas and curtains, and vehicle interior products such as car seats.

Abstract

The present invention addresses the problem of providing a woven/knitted article that has high droplet removability and is superior in motion comfort and texture. The woven/knitted article according to the present invention comprises a commingled yarn including a fiber A having a polyfoil cross section with protrusions on an outer peripheral portion and a fiber B having a flat cross section, the woven/knitted article satisfying the following requirements. (1) The number of protrusions in the fiber A is from 6 to 30. (2) The flatness of the fiber B is from 1.1 to 5.0. (3) The fiber B is has a smaller fineness than that of the fiber A. (4) The woven/knitted article has crimps of the fiber B on the surface thereof. (5) Each of the fiber A and the fiber B is a crimped fiber having a bimetal structure containing two types of polymers. (6) The woven/knitted article has a water repellent agent on the surface thereof.

Description

織編物Woven and knitted fabrics
 本発明は、高い水滴除去性を有し、かつ動作快適性と風合いにも優れた織編物に関する。 The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric that has high water droplet removal properties, and also has excellent comfort when moving and texture.
 従来、撥水性を有する織編物はカジュアル衣料やスポーツ衣料、ユニフォーム衣料など種々の用途に使用され、いずれも高い撥水性が要求されている。昨今では、これらの用途に付加価値を持たせる観点から、撥水性のみならず風合いや着用時の動作快適性を付与するストレッチ性も共に要求されている。  Traditionally, water-repellent woven and knitted fabrics have been used for a variety of purposes, including casual clothing, sportswear, and uniforms, all of which require high water repellency. Recently, in order to add value to these applications, there has been a demand for not only water repellency but also stretchability, which provides texture and comfortable movement when worn.
 織編物に撥水性を付与するには、フッ素系樹脂やシリコーン系樹脂、パラフィン系樹脂を含有する撥水剤を生地表面に付着させる撥水処理を施すことが広く用いられており、近年では、環境に配慮するため、生物に影響を及ぼす可能性のある化合物(例えば、パーフルオロオクタン酸やパーフルオロオクタンスルホン酸など)を使用しない非フッ素系(PFOAフリー)撥水剤を使用した織編物が提案されている。一方、非フッ素処方で得られた織編物は日常における十分な撥水性を得られず、適切な処方をしなければ風合いがかたくなるためカジュアル衣料やスポーツ衣料等の撥水性と風合いが共に要求される用途への応用が大きく制限されていた。  In order to impart water repellency to woven and knitted fabrics, a water repellent treatment is widely used in which a water repellent agent containing a fluorine-based resin, silicone resin, or paraffin resin is applied to the surface of the fabric. In recent years, in consideration of the environment, woven and knitted fabrics using non-fluorine-based (PFOA-free) water repellents that do not use compounds that may have an adverse effect on living organisms (such as perfluorooctanoic acid and perfluorooctanesulfonic acid) have been proposed. On the other hand, woven and knitted fabrics obtained with non-fluorine formulations do not have sufficient water repellency for everyday use, and unless the appropriate formulation is used, the texture becomes stiff, greatly limiting their application to applications requiring both water repellency and texture, such as casual clothing and sportswear.
 撥水剤を生地表面に付着させる方法以外の撥水性を向上させる方法としては、これまでに、織編物の表面形態を制御し、いわゆるハスの葉効果を狙った繊維の異型断面化や複合糸化に関する提案がなされている(例えば、特許文献1、特許文献2、特許文献3)。  Methods of improving water repellency other than attaching a water repellent to the fabric surface have been proposed, including controlling the surface morphology of woven or knitted fabrics to create atypical fiber cross-sections or composite yarns aimed at achieving the so-called lotus leaf effect (for example, Patent Document 1, Patent Document 2, and Patent Document 3).
特開2005-350828号公報JP 2005-350828 A 特開2015-098661号公報JP 2015-098661 A 国際公開第2021/215319号International Publication No. 2021/215319
 しかしながら、特許文献1、2に記載の織編物はカジュアル衣料やスポーツ衣料など着用時の激しい動作に追従するためのストレッチ性が得られておらず、動作快適性が不十分である。特許文献3に記載の布帛は複合糸に伸縮性繊維を含むことでストレッチ性はある一方、伸縮性繊維とともに含まれ、微細繊維ループを形成する極細繊維として非捲縮繊維が推奨されていることから風合いが不十分である。このことから、水滴除去性のみならず動作快適性や良好な風合いを両立した、各用途へ応用可能な織編物の開発が求められている。 However, the woven and knitted fabrics described in Patent Documents 1 and 2 do not have the stretchability required to accommodate the vigorous movements made when worn, such as in casual or sportswear, and are insufficient in terms of comfort when moving around. The fabric described in Patent Document 3 has stretchability due to the inclusion of elastic fibers in the composite yarn, but the texture is insufficient because non-crimped fibers are recommended as the ultrafine fibers that form fine fiber loops along with the elastic fibers. For this reason, there is a demand for the development of woven and knitted fabrics that can be used for a variety of purposes, which not only have the ability to remove water droplets, but also provide comfort when moving around and have a good texture.
 本発明は、上記従来技術の課題を解決し、高い水滴除去性を有し、かつ動作快適性と風合いにも優れた織編物を提供することを目的とする。 The present invention aims to solve the problems of the conventional technology described above and provide a woven or knitted fabric that has high water droplet removal properties, is comfortable to wear, and has an excellent texture.
 本発明は上記課題を解決するために次の構成を有する。 The present invention has the following configuration to solve the above problems.
 [1]横断面が外周部に凸部を有する多葉形状である繊維Aと横断面が扁平形状である繊維Bとを有する混繊糸を含み、以下の要件を満たす織編物。
(1)前記繊維Aの凸部は、6~30個である。
(2)前記繊維Bの扁平度が1.1~5.0である。
(3)繊維Aよりも繊維Bが細い繊度である。
(4)前記織編物表面に前記繊維Bの捲縮を有する。
(5)前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bは、いずれも二種類のポリマーを含むバイメタル構造の捲縮繊維である。
(6)前記織編物表面に撥水剤を有する。
[1] A woven or knitted fabric comprising a mixed yarn having fiber A having a multi-lobal cross section with a convex portion on the outer periphery and fiber B having a flat cross section, and satisfying the following requirements:
(1) The number of protrusions of the fiber A is 6 to 30.
(2) The flatness of the fiber B is 1.1 to 5.0.
(3) Fiber B has a finer fiber size than fiber A.
(4) The woven or knitted fabric has crimps of the fiber B on the surface.
(5) Both the fiber A and the fiber B are crimped fibers having a bimetallic structure containing two types of polymers.
(6) The woven or knitted fabric has a surface with a water repellent.
 [2]生地表面の水滴滑落角度が1~45度である、前記[1]に記載の織編物。 [2] A woven or knitted fabric as described in [1] above, in which the water droplet sliding angle on the fabric surface is 1 to 45 degrees.
 [3]繰り返し洗濯20回後の生地表面の水滴滑落角度が、1~60度である、前記[2]に記載の織編物。 [3] The woven or knitted fabric described in [2] above, in which the water droplet sliding angle on the fabric surface after 20 repeated washings is 1 to 60 degrees.
 [4]経方向または緯方向の伸長率が10~100%である、前記[1]~[3]のいずれかに記載の織編物。 [4] A woven or knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [3] above, in which the stretch rate in the warp or weft direction is 10 to 100%.
 [5]前記繊維Aの繊度が0.5~5.0dtexであり、前記繊維Aの繊度[dtex]/前記繊維Bの繊度[dtex]で表される繊度比が2.0以上である前記[1]~[4]のいずれかに記載の織編物。 [5] A woven or knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [4], in which the fineness of the fiber A is 0.5 to 5.0 dtex, and the fineness ratio expressed as the fineness of the fiber A [dtex] / the fineness of the fiber B [dtex] is 2.0 or more.
 [6]前記繊維Bの本数/前記繊維Aの本数で表される本数比が2以上である前記[1]~[5]のいずれかに記載の織編物。 [6] A woven or knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [5] above, in which the ratio of the number of fibers B to the number of fibers A is 2 or more.
 [7]単位面積当たりにおける前記混繊糸の表面占有率が20%以上である前記[1]~[6]のいずれかに記載の織編物。 [7] A woven or knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [6], in which the surface occupancy rate of the blended yarn per unit area is 20% or more.
 本発明によれば、高い水滴除去性を有し、かつ動作快適性と風合いにも優れた織編物を提供することができる。 The present invention makes it possible to provide a woven or knitted fabric that has high water droplet removal properties, as well as excellent comfort when worn and texture.
実施例1で製造した海島複合繊維の繊維横断面構造の概略図である。。1 is a schematic diagram of the fiber cross-sectional structure of the sea-island composite fiber produced in Example 1. 実施例1で用いた海島複合繊維を製造するための複合口金の断面概念図である。FIG. 1 is a schematic cross-sectional view of a composite spinneret for producing a sea-island composite fiber used in Example 1. 本発明の織編物に含まれる混繊糸の横断面構造の概略図である。1 is a schematic diagram of the cross-sectional structure of a mixed yarn contained in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
 以下、本発明の実施形態を詳細に説明する。 The following describes an embodiment of the present invention in detail.
 本発明の織編物は、表面に撥水剤を有する織編物であって、横断面が外周部に凸部を有する多葉形状である繊維Aと、横断面が扁平形状であって前記繊維Aよりも細い繊度である繊維Bとを有する混繊糸を構成糸として含み、前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bは、いずれも二種類のポリマーを含むバイメタル構造からなる捲縮繊維である。かかる構成により、染色加工等の熱処理で潜在捲縮が顕在化することで、繊度差のある前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bに捲縮差が生じる。また、前記繊維Bの微細捲縮が織編物表面に微細な空気層を有するハスの葉状の凹凸構造を形成することで、優れた水滴除去性が得られる。また同時に、繊度差のある前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bのバイメタル捲縮と捲縮差の凹凸の効果により、織編物は動作快適性とスパン調の風合いにも優れる。なお、ここでいう凹凸の効果とは、混繊糸自体の凹凸の効果を指し、太繊度の大きい捲縮と細繊度の細かい捲縮が組み合わさった結果、混繊糸自体の表面に凹凸の構造が形成されることを指す。 The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric having a water repellent on the surface thereof, and includes as its constituent yarns a mixed yarn having fiber A, which has a multi-lobed cross section with a convex portion on the outer periphery, and fiber B, which has a flat cross section and a finer fiber than fiber A, and both fiber A and fiber B are crimped fibers having a bimetal structure containing two types of polymers. With this structure, latent crimping is made apparent by heat treatment such as dyeing, and a difference in crimping occurs between fiber A and fiber B, which have a difference in fineness. Furthermore, the fine crimping of fiber B forms a lotus leaf-like uneven structure with a fine air layer on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, thereby providing excellent water droplet removal properties. At the same time, due to the uneven effect of the bimetal crimping and the difference in crimping of fiber A and fiber B, which have a difference in fineness, the woven or knitted fabric also has excellent operating comfort and a spun-like texture. The effect of unevenness here refers to the effect of unevenness on the mixed fiber yarn itself, and refers to the uneven structure formed on the surface of the mixed fiber yarn itself as a result of the combination of large crimps of thick fibers and small crimps of thin fibers.
 <繊維A>
 繊維Aは、繊維Aと繊維Bとを有する混繊糸において、横断面が外周部に凸部を有する多葉形状の捲縮繊維である。
<Fiber A>
In the mixed yarn containing fiber A and fiber B, fiber A is a crimped fiber having a multi-lobal shape with a convex portion on the outer periphery of the cross section.
 前記繊維Aを構成するポリマーは、例えば、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリエチレンナフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート、ポリプロピレン、ポリオレフィン、ポリカーボネート、ポリアクリレート、ポリアミド、ポリ乳酸、熱可塑性ポリウレタン、ポリフェニレンサルファイドなどの溶融成形可能なポリマーおよびそれらの共重合体が挙げられ、特にポリマーの融点は165℃以上であると耐熱性が良好であり好ましい。また、植物由来のバイオポリマーやリサイクルポリマーを用いることも好適であり、前述したポリマーは、ケミカルリサイクル、マテリアルリサイクルおよびサーマルリサイクルのいずれの手法で再資源化されたリサイクルポリマーを用いることができる。 The polymer constituting the fiber A may be, for example, a melt-moldable polymer or copolymer thereof, such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polypropylene, polyolefin, polycarbonate, polyacrylate, polyamide, polylactic acid, thermoplastic polyurethane, or polyphenylene sulfide. In particular, it is preferable for the melting point of the polymer to be 165°C or higher, since this has good heat resistance. It is also preferable to use biopolymers or recycled polymers derived from plants, and the aforementioned polymers may be recycled polymers that have been recycled by any of the methods of chemical recycling, material recycling, or thermal recycling.
 前記繊維Aはこれらのポリマー二種類をバイメタル構造(サイドバイサイド型や偏心芯鞘型を含む)に複合した捲縮繊維であり、染色加工等の熱処理により、潜在捲縮が顕在化する捲縮繊維である。前記繊維Aがバイメタル構造の捲縮繊維でない場合には、ストレッチ性がないことで衣服にした場合、動作快適性が得られない。また、繊維Aをバイメタル構造にすることにより、織編物が収縮して後述する繊維Bとの捲縮ピッチに差が生じて、織編物の表面により効果的な空気層と凹凸構造が形成でき、水滴除去性とスパン調の風合いがより向上する。 The fiber A is a crimped fiber in which these two types of polymers are combined in a bimetallic structure (including side-by-side and eccentric core-sheath types), and latent crimping becomes apparent through heat treatment such as dyeing. If the fiber A is not a bimetallic crimped fiber, it will lack stretchability and will not provide comfortable movement when made into clothing. In addition, by making fiber A into a bimetallic structure, the woven or knitted fabric will shrink, creating a difference in the crimp pitch with fiber B (described below), forming a more effective air layer and uneven structure on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, further improving water droplet removal and spun-like texture.
 前記繊維Aには、必要に応じて酸化チタン、シリカ、酸化バリウムなどの無機物質、カーボンブラック、染料や顔料などの着色剤、難燃剤、蛍光増白剤、酸化防止剤、あるいは紫外線吸収剤などの各種添加剤をポリマー中に含んでいてもよい。 If necessary, the fiber A may contain various additives in the polymer, such as inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica, barium oxide, etc., colorants such as carbon black, dyes, pigments, etc., flame retardants, fluorescent whitening agents, antioxidants, or ultraviolet absorbers.
 前記繊維Aの横断面は、外周部に6~30個の凸部を有する多葉形状である。多葉形状であることにより、スパン調の風合いが得られるだけでなく、後述するように、相対的に太い繊度である前記繊維Aにおいても水滴と繊維表面との接触面積を効果的に低減させることができ、水滴除去性に優れた織編物が得られる。凸部は、水滴除去性に偏りが生じないようにするために、繊維表面の外周部に一様に配置された放射状であることが好ましい。凸部が6個未満の場合、凸部の間隔が広くなることでスパン調の風合いが得られない。水滴との接触面積を大きくし、十分な水滴除去性をも得る観点から、凸部は8個以上が好ましい。一方、凸部が30個を超える場合、凸部が着用時の摩擦などの物理作用で割れやすくなりフィブリル化を起こして品位低下を招くだけでなく、繊維表面の外周部に形成される凸部の間隔が細かくなりすぎて丸断面と近似する形状になり、水滴除去性に対する効果が低減してしまう。凸部は15個未満がより好ましい。凸部の個数については実施例に記載の方法により測定することができる。 The cross section of the fiber A is a multi-leaf shape having 6 to 30 convex parts on the outer periphery. The multi-leaf shape not only provides a spun-like texture, but also effectively reduces the contact area between water droplets and the fiber surface, even for the fiber A, which has a relatively large fineness, as described below, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric with excellent water droplet removal properties. The convex parts are preferably uniformly arranged radially on the outer periphery of the fiber surface to prevent bias in water droplet removal properties. If there are fewer than six convex parts, the spacing between the convex parts will be wide, and the spun-like texture will not be obtained. From the viewpoint of increasing the contact area with water droplets and obtaining sufficient water droplet removal properties, it is preferable that there are eight or more convex parts. On the other hand, if there are more than 30 convex parts, the convex parts will be easily cracked by physical effects such as friction when worn, causing fibrillation and resulting in a decrease in quality, and the spacing between the convex parts formed on the outer periphery of the fiber surface will be too fine, resulting in a shape that is close to a round cross section, reducing the effect on water droplet removal properties. It is more preferable that there are fewer than 15 convex parts. The number of convex parts can be measured by the method described in the Examples.
 前記繊維Aは、前述したように、後述する扁平形状の繊維Bに対して相対的に太い繊度であり、下記式1で表される前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bの繊度比が、2.0以上(より好ましくは、2.0~2000.0、特に好ましくは5.0~200.0)であることが好ましい。前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bの繊度比が2.0以上であることにより、前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bに捲縮差が生じやすくなり、織編物表面に微細な凹凸や空気層が形成されて、十分な水滴除去性やスパン調の風合いを得ることができる。上記繊度比は、より好ましくは5.0以上である。一方、前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bの繊度比は、2000.0以下であることにより、織編物としての耐久性等の物性を十分に満たすことができる。より好ましくは200.0以下である。
繊度比=前記繊維Aの繊度[dtex]/前記繊維Bの繊度[dtex]・・・(式1)。
As described above, the fiber A has a relatively large fineness compared to the flat-shaped fiber B described later, and the fineness ratio of the fiber A to the fiber B represented by the following formula 1 is preferably 2.0 or more (more preferably 2.0 to 2000.0, particularly preferably 5.0 to 200.0). When the fineness ratio of the fiber A to the fiber B is 2.0 or more, a difference in shrinkage is easily generated between the fiber A and the fiber B, and fine irregularities and air layers are formed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, so that sufficient water droplet removal properties and a spun-like texture can be obtained. The fineness ratio is more preferably 5.0 or more. On the other hand, when the fineness ratio of the fiber A to the fiber B is 2000.0 or less, physical properties such as durability as a woven or knitted fabric can be sufficiently satisfied. More preferably, it is 200.0 or less.
Fineness ratio=fineness of fiber A [dtex]/fineness of fiber B [dtex] (Equation 1).
 前記繊維Aの繊度は、0.5~5.0dtexが好ましい。繊維Aの繊度が0.5dtex以上であることにより、単糸繊度が細くなりすぎず、引裂きや耐久性等の物性を十分に満たすことができる。前記繊維Aの繊度は、より好ましくは1.0dtex以上である。一方、繊維Aの繊度が5.0dtex以下であることにより、水滴除去性に有効な前記繊維Bとの捲縮差が得られやすく、水滴との接地面が小さくなるため、より高い水滴除去性が得られる。前記繊維Aの繊度は、より好ましくは2.5dtex以下である。繊度は実施例に記載の方法により測定することができる。 The fineness of the fiber A is preferably 0.5 to 5.0 dtex. When the fineness of the fiber A is 0.5 dtex or more, the single yarn fineness is not too thin, and physical properties such as tear resistance and durability can be fully satisfied. The fineness of the fiber A is more preferably 1.0 dtex or more. On the other hand, when the fineness of the fiber A is 5.0 dtex or less, it is easy to obtain a shrinkage difference with the fiber B that is effective for water droplet removal, and the contact surface with the water droplets is small, so that higher water droplet removal properties can be obtained. The fineness of the fiber A is more preferably 2.5 dtex or less. The fineness can be measured by the method described in the examples.
 <繊維B>
 繊維Bは、繊維Aと繊維Bとを有する混繊糸において、横断面が扁平形状の捲縮繊維である。
<Fiber B>
In the blended yarn containing fiber A and fiber B, fiber B is a crimped fiber having a flat cross section.
 繊維Bを構成するポリマーは、例えば、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリエチレンナフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート、ポリプロピレン、ポリオレフィン、ポリカーボネート、ポリアクリレート、ポリアミド、ポリ乳酸、熱可塑性ポリウレタン、ポリフェニレンサルファイドなどの溶融成形可能なポリマーおよびそれらの共重合体が挙げられ、特にポリマーの融点は165℃以上であると耐熱性が良好であり好ましい。また、植物由来のバイオポリマーやリサイクルポリマーを用いることも好適であり、前述したポリマーは、ケミカルリサイクル、マテリアルリサイクルおよびサーマルリサイクルのいずれの手法で再資源化されたリサイクルポリマーを用いることができる。 The polymer constituting fiber B may be, for example, a melt-moldable polymer or copolymer thereof, such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polypropylene, polyolefin, polycarbonate, polyacrylate, polyamide, polylactic acid, thermoplastic polyurethane, or polyphenylene sulfide. In particular, it is preferable for the melting point of the polymer to be 165°C or higher, since this provides good heat resistance. It is also preferable to use biopolymers or recycled polymers derived from plants, and the aforementioned polymers may be recycled polymers that have been recycled by any of the methods of chemical recycling, material recycling, or thermal recycling.
 前記繊維Bはこれらのポリマー二種類をバイメタル構造(サイドバイサイド型や偏心芯鞘型を含む)に複合した捲縮繊維であり、染色加工等の熱処理により潜在捲縮が顕在化する捲縮繊維である。前記繊維Bがバイメタル構造の捲縮繊維でない場合には、前記繊維Bの捲縮がなく、後述するスパン調の風合いが得られない。また、前記繊維Bがバイメタル構造であることにより、水滴除去性がより向上する。 The fiber B is a crimped fiber in which these two types of polymers are combined in a bimetallic structure (including side-by-side and eccentric core-sheath types), and the latent crimping becomes apparent through heat treatment such as dyeing. If the fiber B is not a crimped fiber with a bimetallic structure, the fiber B will not crimp, and the spun-like texture described below will not be obtained. Furthermore, the bimetallic structure of the fiber B further improves water droplet removal properties.
 前記繊維Bには、必要に応じて酸化チタン、シリカ、酸化バリウムなどの無機物質、カーボンブラック、染料や顔料などの着色剤、難燃剤、蛍光増白剤、酸化防止剤、あるいは紫外線吸収剤などの各種添加剤をポリマー中に含んでいてもよい。 If necessary, the fiber B may contain various additives in the polymer, such as inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica, barium oxide, etc., colorants such as carbon black, dyes, pigments, etc., flame retardants, fluorescent whitening agents, antioxidants, or ultraviolet absorbing agents.
 前記繊維Bの横断面は、横断面の長軸方向と短軸方向の長さに差がある、扁平度1.1~5.0の扁平形状である。かかる扁平形状が捲縮することにより、綿のねじれ構造を再現したスパン調の風合いが得られるだけでなく、水滴と繊維表面との接触面積を効果的に低減させることができ、水滴除去性に優れた織編物が得られる。ここで「扁平度」とは、本発明の織編物から採取した1本の前記混繊糸中に含まれる繊維Bについて下記式2に従って扁平度を求めた平均値を算出することによって得られる値とする。扁平度が5.0を超える場合、単糸が薄くなりすぎて前記混繊糸を曲げたときの反発感が低下してスパン調の風合いが得られない。また、水滴と繊維表面との接地面が鋭利になりすぎて水滴を支えきれずに把持してしまうことによる水滴除去性に対する効果の低減を抑制するために、扁平度は4.0以下が好ましい。また、着用時の摩擦などの物理作用でフィブリル化を起こして品位低下を招くことを抑制することができる。一方、扁平度が1.1より小さいと、前記繊維Bが丸断面と極めて近似する形状になり水滴除去性とスパン調の風合いに対する効果を失ってしまう。
扁平度=前記繊維Bの横断面の長軸方向の長さ[μm]/前記繊維Bの横断面の短軸方向の長さ[μm]・・・(式2)。
The cross section of the fiber B has a flat shape with a flatness of 1.1 to 5.0, which is different in length between the long axis direction and the short axis direction of the cross section. By crimping such a flat shape, not only can a spun-like texture that reproduces the twisted structure of cotton be obtained, but also the contact area between water droplets and the fiber surface can be effectively reduced, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric with excellent water droplet removability. Here, the "flatness" is a value obtained by calculating the average flatness of the fiber B contained in one of the mixed fiber yarns collected from the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention according to the following formula 2. If the flatness exceeds 5.0, the single yarn becomes too thin, the resilience when the mixed fiber yarn is bent decreases, and the spun-like texture cannot be obtained. In addition, the contact surface between the water droplets and the fiber surface becomes too sharp to support the water droplets and grip them, thereby suppressing a reduction in the effect on water droplet removal, so the flatness is preferably 4.0 or less. In addition, it is possible to suppress fibrillation caused by physical effects such as friction during wearing, which leads to a decrease in quality. On the other hand, if the degree of flatness is less than 1.1, the fiber B will have a shape that is very close to a round cross section, and the effect of removing water droplets and providing a spun-like texture will be lost.
Flatness=length of the cross section of fiber B in the major axis direction [μm]/length of the cross section of fiber B in the minor axis direction [μm] (Equation 2).
 前記繊維Bは、前述したように、前記繊維Aと相対的に細い繊度であり、前記繊維Aとの捲縮差を得るために上記式1で表される前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bの繊度比が2.0以上となる繊度であることが好ましい。 As described above, fiber B has a relatively finer fiber than fiber A, and it is preferable that the fineness ratio of fiber A to fiber B, as expressed by the above formula 1, is 2.0 or more in order to obtain a shrinkage difference with fiber A.
 <混繊糸>
 本発明の織編物は前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bとを有する混繊糸を含み、該繊維AおよびB以外の繊維を有してもよい。前記繊維Aと前記繊維B以外の繊維を有する場合、その種類や形状は特に限定されない。また、前述した通り、前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bは、いずれも二種類のポリマーを含むバイメタル構造の捲縮繊維である。前記繊維Aと前記繊維B以外の繊維として二種類のポリマーを含むバイメタル糸を用いると、織編み物に用いた際にそれぞれの繊維が捲縮発現しやすいため好ましい。
<Combined fiber yarn>
The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention includes a mixed yarn having the fiber A and the fiber B, and may include fibers other than the fibers A and B. When the fabric includes fibers other than the fiber A and the fiber B, the type and shape of the fibers are not particularly limited. As described above, the fiber A and the fiber B are both crimped fibers having a bimetal structure containing two types of polymers. It is preferable to use a bimetal yarn containing two types of polymers as the fiber other than the fiber A and the fiber B, because each fiber is likely to develop crimps when used in a woven or knitted fabric.
 かかる混繊糸は、総繊度が10~300dtex(より好ましくは、20~240dtex、特に好ましくは、30~150dtex)の範囲内であることが好ましい。 The blended yarn preferably has a total fineness in the range of 10 to 300 dtex (more preferably, 20 to 240 dtex, and particularly preferably, 30 to 150 dtex).
 混繊糸は、下記式3で表される前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bの本数比が2以上であることが好ましい。該本数比が2以上であることにより、前記繊維Bが織編物の表面に表出する本数が増えてより良好なスパン調の風合いが得られる。また、撥水性に有効な前記繊維Aとの捲縮差による微細な空気層と凹凸構造ができやすくなるため、より高い水滴除去性が得られる。該本数比は、より好ましくは5以上である。一方、該本数比を50以下にすることにより、織編物の表面に表出する相対的に細い前記繊維Bに起因するフィブリル化やピリング等の著しい品位低下を抑制することができる。該本数比は、より好ましくは15以下である。
本数比=前記繊維Bの本数/前記繊維Aの本数・・・(式3)。
The blended yarn preferably has a ratio of the number of fibers A to the number of fibers B, represented by the following formula 3, of 2 or more. By having the ratio of the number of fibers A to the number of fibers B exposed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is increased, thereby obtaining a better spun-like texture. In addition, since a fine air layer and an uneven structure due to the difference in shrinkage with the fiber A, which is effective for water repellency, are easily formed, a higher water droplet removal ability is obtained. The ratio of the number of fibers is more preferably 5 or more. On the other hand, by making the ratio of the number of fibers 50 or less, a significant deterioration in quality, such as fibrillation and pilling, caused by the relatively thin fiber B exposed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric can be suppressed. The ratio of the number of fibers is more preferably 15 or less.
Number ratio=number of fibers B/number of fibers A (Equation 3).
 前記混繊糸は、前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bの捲縮差を最も得ることができる無撚が特に好ましいが、必要に応じて下記式4で表される撚係数35000以下の撚糸をしてもよい。その際、撚数としては100~2000T/Mの範囲内が好ましい。
撚係数=撚数[T/M]×(繊度[de])1/2・・・(式4)。
ただし、繊度[de]=繊度[dtex]×0.9で表される値である。
The mixed yarn is particularly preferably non-twisted, which can maximize the difference in crimp between the fiber A and the fiber B, but may be twisted to a twist coefficient of 35,000 or less, as expressed by the following formula 4, if necessary. In that case, the number of twists is preferably within a range of 100 to 2,000 T/M.
Twist coefficient = number of twists [T/M] × (fineness [de]) 1/2 ... (Equation 4).
Here, the value is expressed as fineness [de] = fineness [dtex] x 0.9.
 <織編物>
 本発明における織編物は、前記混繊糸を含む織編物であり、織編物表面に前記繊維Bの捲縮を有する。ここで「捲縮」とは、仮撚加工や空気加工(インターレース加工やタスラン加工)、二種類のポリマーを貼り合わせたバイメタル構造の繊維等によって得られる立体的なねじれ構造(コイル状を含む)やループ構造を意味し、特に限定されない。また、二種類のポリマーを貼り合わせたバイメタル構造の繊維を仮撚加工すると捲縮が一層微細になるため好ましい。染色加工等の熱処理により、バイメタル構造の前記繊維Aおよび前記繊維Bの潜在捲縮が顕在化することで織編物が収縮して、動作快適性に優れるストレッチ性のある織編物を得ることができる。また同時に、繊度差のある前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bに捲縮差が生じて、前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bがばらけることで、混繊糸中で空間ができ、相対的に細い前記繊維Bの微細捲縮が織編物表面に微細な空気層を有するハスの葉状の凹凸構造を形成して、優れた水滴除去性が得られる。また、かかる前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bの捲縮差による微細な凹凸構造によって織編物表面に超長綿のような細やかなスパン調の風合いが得られる。
<Woven and knitted fabrics>
The woven or knitted fabric in the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric containing the mixed yarn, and has the crimp of the fiber B on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. Here, the "crimp" means a three-dimensional twisted structure (including a coil shape) or a loop structure obtained by false twist processing, air processing (interlace processing or taslan processing), a fiber with a bimetal structure in which two types of polymers are bonded together, etc., and is not particularly limited. In addition, it is preferable to false twist a fiber with a bimetal structure in which two types of polymers are bonded together, because the crimp becomes finer. By heat treatment such as dyeing, the latent crimp of the fiber A and the fiber B with a bimetal structure becomes apparent, and the woven or knitted fabric shrinks, and a woven or knitted fabric with stretchability excellent in operating comfort can be obtained. At the same time, a crimp difference occurs between the fiber A and the fiber B, which have a difference in fineness, and the fiber A and the fiber B are separated, creating a space in the mixed yarn, and the fine crimp of the relatively thin fiber B forms a lotus leaf-like uneven structure with a fine air layer on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, thereby obtaining excellent water droplet removal properties. In addition, the fine uneven structure caused by the difference in shrinkage between the fiber A and the fiber B gives the woven or knitted fabric a fine spun texture like that of extra-long staple cotton on its surface.
 織編物中に含まれる前記混繊糸の比率は、大きくなるほどバイメタル構造によるストレッチ性が得られて、衣服にした場合の動作快適性を得ることができる。特に、織編物表面に表出する前記混繊糸比率が大きいほど、表面に微細空気層と凹凸構造が形成されて、優れた水滴除去性とスパン調の風合いも得ることができる。このため、かかる織編物においては、単位面積当たりにおける前記混繊糸の表面占有率が20%以上(特に好ましくは、100%)であることが好ましい。ここで「表面占有率」とは、織編物表面において前記混繊糸が占める割合のことである。かかる比率以上であれば、例えば、織物とした場合でも、織物表面により高い水滴除去性やより良好なスパン調の風合いに有効な前記混繊糸の凹凸構造を形成可能となり、より高い動作快適性も得ることができる。織編物とする際に前記混繊糸と組み合わせる繊維としては、仮撚加工や空気加工(インターレース加工やタスラン加工)を行った繊維や、二種類のポリマーを貼り合わせたバイメタル構造の繊維またはそれらを組合せた繊維が、前記混繊糸のストレッチ性や捲縮発現、スパン調のタッチを阻害しにくいため好ましい。 The higher the ratio of the mixed fiber yarn contained in the woven or knitted fabric, the more stretchability due to the bimetal structure can be obtained, and the more comfortable it is to move around when made into clothing. In particular, the higher the ratio of the mixed fiber yarn exposed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, the more fine air layers and uneven structures are formed on the surface, resulting in excellent water droplet removal properties and a spun-like texture. For this reason, in such woven or knitted fabrics, it is preferable that the surface occupancy rate of the mixed fiber yarn per unit area is 20% or more (particularly preferably 100%). Here, "surface occupancy rate" refers to the proportion of the mixed fiber yarn on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. If the ratio is above this level, for example, even when the fabric is made into a woven fabric, it is possible to form an uneven structure of the mixed fiber yarn on the surface of the fabric that is effective for high water droplet removal properties and a better spun-like texture, and higher comfort can be obtained. As fibers to be combined with the blended yarn when making a woven or knitted fabric, fibers that have been false-twisted or air-processed (interlaced or taslan processed), fibers with a bimetal structure in which two types of polymers are bonded together, or fibers that combine these, are preferred because they are less likely to impair the stretchability, crimping, and spun-like touch of the blended yarn.
 本発明の織編物における組織は特に限定されないが、優れた水滴除去性を特に得ることができる織物が好ましい。織編物が織物である場合、織組織としては特に限定されず、例えば、平織、斜文織、朱子織、変化平織、変化斜文織、変化朱子織、変わり織、紋織、片重ね織、二重組織、多重組織、経パイル織、緯パイル織、絡み織などが挙げられる。また、織編物が編物である場合、編組織としては特に限定されず、例えば、丸編、緯編、経編(トリコット編、ラッセル編を含む)、パイル編、平編、天竺編、リブ編、スムース編(両面編)、ゴム編、パール編、デンビー組織、コード組織、アトラス組織、鎖組織、挿入組織などが挙げられる。織物、編物いずれもどのような組織でもよいが、平織よりも綾織りのような凹凸が出やすい組織とする方が、前記混繊糸が収縮しやすくなり、表面の微細空気層と凹凸構造が形成されやすい。また、他の原糸と混用する場合は、前記混繊糸が表面に多く現れる組織が望ましい。 The structure of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, but a woven fabric that can obtain excellent water droplet removal properties is preferable. When the woven or knitted fabric is a woven fabric, the weave structure is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, variation plain weave, variation twill weave, variation satin weave, variegated weave, patterned weave, single overlap weave, double weave, multiple weave, warp pile weave, weft pile weave, and entwined weave. When the woven or knitted fabric is a knitted fabric, the knit structure is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include circular knit, weft knit, warp knit (including tricot knit and raschel knit), pile knit, plain knit, jersey knit, rib knit, smooth knit (double-sided knit), rubber knit, pearl knit, Denbigh weave, cord weave, atlas weave, chain weave, and insertion weave. Any structure may be used for both woven and knitted fabrics, but a structure that is more likely to produce unevenness such as a twill weave than a plain weave makes it easier for the mixed fiber yarn to shrink and makes it easier for a fine air layer and uneven structure to be formed on the surface. Also, when mixed with other raw yarns, a structure in which the mixed yarn appears mostly on the surface is desirable.
 かかる織物は、下記式5で表される経緯の総カバーファクタ(CF)が1000~3500が好ましい。総カバーファクタ(CF)が1000以上であることにより、組織点にできる空隙が少なくなり、この空隙に水滴が落ちることなく優れた水滴除去性を得ることができる。総カバーファクタ(CF)は、より好ましくは1500以上である。一方、総カバーファクタ(CF)が3500以下であれば、組織点による過度な拘束力で前述した混繊糸の微細空気層と凹凸構造が失われることなく、優れた水滴除去性や動作快適性、スパン調の風合いを得ることができる。総カバーファクタ(CF)は、より好ましくは2800以下である。
CF=(経糸総繊度[de])1/2×経糸織密度[本/2.54cm]+緯糸総繊度[de])1/2×緯糸織密度[本/2.54cm]・・・(式5)。
ただし、経糸総繊度[de]=経糸総繊度[dtex]×0.9、緯糸総繊度[de]=緯糸総繊度[dtex]×0.9で表される値である。
The fabric preferably has a warp-to-warp total cover factor (CF) of 1000 to 3500, as expressed by the following formula 5. When the total cover factor (CF) is 1000 or more, the number of voids formed at the weaving points is reduced, and water droplets do not fall into these voids, making it possible to obtain excellent water droplet removal properties. The total cover factor (CF) is more preferably 1500 or more. On the other hand, when the total cover factor (CF) is 3500 or less, the fine air layers and uneven structure of the mixed yarn described above are not lost due to excessive restraint force at the weaving points, making it possible to obtain excellent water droplet removal properties, operating comfort, and spun texture. The total cover factor (CF) is more preferably 2800 or less.
CF = (total warp fineness [de]) 1/2 × warp weave density [pieces/2.54 cm] + total weft fineness [de]) 1/2 × weft weave density [pieces/2.54 cm] ... (Equation 5).
However, the total warp fineness [de] is a value expressed by the formula: total warp fineness [dtex] x 0.9, and the total weft fineness [de] is a value expressed by the formula: total warp fineness [dtex] x 0.9.
 本発明の織編物は、表面に撥水剤を有する。ここでいう表面に撥水剤を有するとは、織編物が実質的に撥水性能を有していればよく、織編物の生地表面の水滴滑落角度が、90度よりも小さいことなどが例示される。撥水性能を有する糸を使用しても良く、染色加工時に織編物に撥水剤を付与しても良い。織編物に水滴除去性を付与する撥水剤の種類は特に限定されないが、高速液体クロマトグラフ-質量分析計(LC-MS)を用いた測定において、パーフルオロオクタン酸(PFOA)の濃度が5ng/g以下である撥水剤を用いることが環境上好ましい(特に好ましくは、1ng/g未満)。かかる撥水剤とは、例えば、C6撥水剤(C6系撥水剤とも称されるが、本発明ではC6撥水剤と称する)や非フッ素系撥水剤などが挙げられ、リサイクル性の観点から非フッ素系撥水剤が特に好ましい。 The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a water repellent on its surface. Here, having a water repellent on its surface means that the woven or knitted fabric has substantial water repellency, and examples of such include a water droplet slide angle on the fabric surface of the woven or knitted fabric being less than 90 degrees. A water repellent yarn may be used, or the water repellent may be added to the woven or knitted fabric during dyeing. There are no particular limitations on the type of water repellent that gives the woven or knitted fabric water droplet removal properties, but it is environmentally preferable to use a water repellent having a perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) concentration of 5 ng/g or less (particularly preferably less than 1 ng/g) as measured using a high performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometer (LC-MS). Examples of such water repellents include C6 water repellents (also called C6-based water repellents, but referred to as C6 water repellents in the present invention) and non-fluorine-based water repellents, and non-fluorine-based water repellents are particularly preferable from the viewpoint of recyclability.
 C6撥水剤とは、パーフルオロアルキル基を有するフッ素系化合物からなるフッ素系撥水剤であり、かつパーフルオロアルキル基の炭素数が6個以下であるものをいう。パーフルオロアルキル基とは、アルキル基の水素原子の2個以上がフッ素原子に置換された基を言う。 C6 water repellent is a fluorine-based water repellent made of a fluorine compound having a perfluoroalkyl group, and the number of carbon atoms in the perfluoroalkyl group is 6 or less. A perfluoroalkyl group is a group in which two or more hydrogen atoms of an alkyl group are replaced with fluorine atoms.
 また、非フッ素系撥水剤とは、パーフルオロアルキル基を主体としたフッ素化合物を含まない撥水剤である。非フッ素系撥水剤としては、シリコーン系撥水剤、パラフィン系撥水剤などが挙げられ、これらの撥水剤は、シリコーン系化合物が主体であってもよいし、パラフィン系化合物が主体であってもよい。 Furthermore, a non-fluorine-based water repellent is a water repellent that does not contain a fluorine compound and is mainly composed of a perfluoroalkyl group. Examples of non-fluorine-based water repellents include silicone-based water repellents and paraffin-based water repellents, and these water repellents may be mainly composed of silicone-based compounds or paraffin-based compounds.
 撥水剤の付着濃度は前記混繊糸によるスパン調の風合いを損なわず、優れた水滴除去性が得られる0.1~1質量%が好ましい(より好ましくは、0.2~0.8質量%、特に好ましくは、0.3~0.5質量%)。 The concentration of the water repellent applied is preferably 0.1 to 1% by mass (more preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by mass, and particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.5% by mass), which does not impair the spun-like texture of the blended yarn and provides excellent water droplet removal properties.
 かくして得られる織編物は、前記混繊糸を含むことにより、前記繊維Bの微細捲縮が織編物表面に微細な空気層を有する凹凸構造を形成することで、水滴が織編物表面に滴下した際にハスの葉効果のような優れた水滴除去性とスパン調の風合いだけでなく、前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bのバイメタル構造による優れた動作快適性を発現する。 The woven or knitted fabric thus obtained contains the blended yarn, and the fine crimp of fiber B forms an uneven structure with fine air layers on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. This not only provides excellent water droplet removal properties like the lotus leaf effect when water droplets fall on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and a spun-like texture, but also excellent operating comfort due to the bimetal structure of fiber A and fiber B.
 織編物の生地表面の水滴滑落角度は、1~45度であることが好ましい。水滴滑落角度が45度以下であれば、例えば衣料に用いた場合、着用時の織編物上に水滴が残存しにくくなり、濡れ感等の不快感を感じない優れた水滴除去性を得ることができる。特に、水滴滑落角度が15度以下であれば、着用時の織編物上に水滴がほとんど残存しない、極めて高い水滴除去性を得ることができる。ここで「水滴滑落角度」とは、水平板上に平面状に取り付けた織編物の表面に水滴を静かに滴下し、この平板を等速度で静かに傾斜させて、滴下した水滴が滑落しはじめるときの角度のことであり、水滴滑落角度が小さいほど水滴除去性に優れることの指標となる。水滴滑落角度は、全自動接触角計(DM-SA、協和界面科学株式会社製)を使用して織編物表面上に20μLの水滴を滴下し、等速度で0度から静かに1度ごと傾斜させて、水滴が織編物表面から滑落しきったときの角度により測定される。 The water droplet sliding angle of the fabric surface of a woven or knitted fabric is preferably 1 to 45 degrees. If the water droplet sliding angle is 45 degrees or less, when used in clothing, for example, water droplets are less likely to remain on the woven or knitted fabric when worn, and excellent water droplet removal properties can be obtained without causing discomfort such as a wet feeling. In particular, if the water droplet sliding angle is 15 degrees or less, extremely high water droplet removal properties can be obtained, with almost no water droplets remaining on the woven or knitted fabric when worn. Here, the "water droplet sliding angle" refers to the angle at which water droplets begin to slide down when water droplets are gently dropped onto the surface of a woven or knitted fabric attached in a flat manner to a horizontal plate and the plate is gently tilted at a uniform speed, and the smaller the water droplet sliding angle, the better the water droplet removal properties. The water droplet sliding angle is measured by dropping a 20 μL water droplet onto the surface of the woven or knitted fabric using a fully automatic contact angle meter (DM-SA, manufactured by Kyowa Interface Science Co., Ltd.), gently tilting the fabric from 0 degrees at a constant speed in 1 degree increments, and measuring the angle at which the water droplet completely slides off the woven or knitted fabric surface.
 また、本発明の織編物は繰り返し洗濯後の生地表面の水滴滑落角度が、1~60度であることが好ましく、1~45度であることが更に好ましい。洗濯と乾燥後の水滴滑落角度を上記の値とすることで濡れ感等の不快感を感じない、優れた水滴除去性を長期的に得ることができる。なお、ここでいう繰り返し洗濯とはJIS L1930:2014-C4M法での洗濯とA法(吊り干し乾燥)での乾燥を20回繰り返すことを指す。 Furthermore, the water droplet sliding angle of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention on the fabric surface after repeated washing is preferably 1 to 60 degrees, and more preferably 1 to 45 degrees. By setting the water droplet sliding angle after washing and drying to the above value, it is possible to obtain excellent water droplet removal properties over the long term without causing discomfort such as a wet feeling. Note that repeated washing here refers to washing according to the JIS L1930:2014-C4M method and drying according to Method A (line drying) repeated 20 times.
 本発明の織編物においては、衣料にする場合、着用中の種々の動作に織編物が追従して圧迫感やつっぱり感などの織編物からの衣服圧と称される圧力を感じにくく、動作快適性に優れたストレッチ性を示すことが好ましい。本発明の織編物は前記混繊糸を含み、該混繊糸はバイメタル構造による捲縮が発現した前記繊維Aおよび前記繊維Bを有することで織編物も動作快適性に優れるストレッチ性を有する。かかるストレッチ性としては、織編物の経方向または緯方向の伸長率が10~100%が好ましい。ここで言う、ストレッチ性とは、JIS L1096:2010 8.16.1 B法またはD法により測定した織編物の経方向または緯方向の伸長率のことであり、伸長率が大きいほど動作快適性に優れることの指標となる。伸長率が10%以上であることにより、織編物からの衣服圧を強く感じることなく、着用中の動作を妨げることが少ない。特に、伸長率が20%以上であれば、織編物からの衣服圧をほとんど感じることなく、より優れた動作快適性を得ることができる。一方、伸長率が100%以下であることにより、伸長回復性の著しい低下を防ぐことができる。特に、伸長率が40%以下であれば、パンツなどの衣料用途でみられる膝抜けなどの現象を起こりにくくすることができる。 In the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention, when it is made into clothing, it is preferable that the woven/knitted fabric follows various movements while being worn, so that the pressure from the woven/knitted fabric, such as a feeling of pressure or tension, which is called clothing pressure, is not felt, and the fabric exhibits excellent stretchability with excellent movement comfort. The woven/knitted fabric of the present invention contains the mixed fiber yarn, and the mixed fiber yarn has fiber A and fiber B in which crimping due to a bimetal structure is expressed, so that the woven/knitted fabric also has excellent stretchability with excellent movement comfort. As for such stretchability, the elongation rate in the warp or weft direction of the woven/knitted fabric is preferably 10 to 100%. The stretchability referred to here means the elongation rate in the warp or weft direction of the woven/knitted fabric measured by JIS L1096:2010 8.16.1 Method B or Method D, and the higher the elongation rate, the better the movement comfort. By having an elongation rate of 10% or more, the clothing pressure from the woven/knitted fabric is not strongly felt, and movement while being worn is less hindered. In particular, if the elongation rate is 20% or more, the clothing pressure from the woven/knitted fabric is hardly felt, and more excellent movement comfort can be obtained. On the other hand, by having an elongation rate of 100% or less, a significant decrease in elongation recovery can be prevented. In particular, if the elongation rate is 40% or less, it is possible to prevent phenomena such as sagging at the knees, which is seen in clothing applications such as pants.
 <織編物の製造方法>
 次に、本発明の織編物の好ましい製造方法の一例について述べる。
<Method of manufacturing woven/knitted fabric>
Next, an example of a preferred method for producing the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention will be described.
 まず、以下の方法により、横断面が外周部に凸部を有する多葉形状である繊維Aと横断面が扁平形状である繊維Bとを有する混繊糸を準備する。 First, a blended yarn is prepared by the following method, which has fiber A, whose cross section has a multi-lobed shape with convex portions on the outer periphery, and fiber B, whose cross section has a flat shape.
 混繊糸の製造方法は特に限定されない。例えば、前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bを島成分とした海島複合繊維を染色加工時のアルカリ減量処理等で海成分を溶出して混繊してもよいし、前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bとを引揃えて、空気加工(インターレース加工やタスラン加工)により空気混繊してもよい。特に好ましくは、糸束における前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bの配置に偏りなく混繊できる海島複合繊維を用いた方法であり、空気加工等の糸加工を必要としないため生産性の観点からも良好である。 The method for producing the blended yarn is not particularly limited. For example, a sea-island composite fiber having fiber A and fiber B as island components may be blended by dissolving the sea component through an alkali weight reduction treatment during dyeing, or fiber A and fiber B may be aligned and air-blended through air processing (interlace processing or taslan processing). A method using a sea-island composite fiber that can blend fiber A and fiber B without bias in the arrangement in the yarn bundle is particularly preferred, and is also favorable from the viewpoint of productivity since it does not require yarn processing such as air processing.
 本発明の前記混繊糸を含む織編物の製織編方法は特に限定されず、通常の方法で製織、製編できる。織編物が織物である場合、例えば、ウォータージェットルーム、エアージェットルーム、レピアルーム、ジャガードルームなどが挙げられる。また、織編物が編物である場合、例えば、丸編機、経編機などが挙げられる。 The method for weaving and knitting the woven or knitted fabric containing the blended fiber yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and the fabric can be woven or knitted by a conventional method. When the woven or knitted fabric is a woven fabric, examples of the method include a water jet loom, an air jet loom, a rapier loom, and a jacquard loom. When the woven or knitted fabric is a knitted fabric, examples of the method include a circular knitting machine and a warp knitting machine.
 かかる製織編方法で得た織編物は次いで、通常の方法で精練、染色加工することができ、これら加工の熱処理によって繊度差のある前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bの潜在捲縮が顕在化して、捲縮差による前記繊維Bの微細空気層と凹凸構造が織編物表面に形成される。海島複合繊維から海成分を溶出して前記混繊糸とする場合、海島複合繊維のまま製編織し、精練処理後にアルカリ減量処理等により海成分を溶出することにより、混繊糸を含む織編物とする方法が好ましい。 The woven or knitted fabric obtained by this weaving and knitting method can then be refined and dyed in the usual manner, and the heat treatment in these processes makes the latent crimp of fiber A and fiber B, which have a difference in fineness, apparent, and a fine air layer and an uneven structure of fiber B due to the difference in crimp are formed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. When the sea component is dissolved from the sea-island composite fiber to produce the mixed fiber yarn, it is preferable to weave or knit the sea-island composite fiber as it is, and then dissolve the sea component by an alkali reduction treatment or the like after the scouring treatment to produce a woven or knitted fabric containing the mixed fiber yarn.
 前記織編物においては撥水加工を施すが、必要に応じて、、難燃、吸湿、制電、抗菌、柔軟仕上げ、その他公知の後加工(樹脂コーティング、フィルムラミネート、その他機能を付与する各加工等を含む)を併用することができ、これら難燃、吸湿、制電、抗菌、柔軟仕上げ剤などの機能加工剤の洗濯耐久性を向上させることもできる。撥水加工工程は、パディング法、スプレー法、コーティング法など特に限定されるものではないが、加工剤を織編物内部まで浸透させる上でパディング法が好ましい。一方、撥水性能を有する糸を使用していない前記織編物に撥水加工を施さない場合、前記混繊糸からなる表面の微細空気層に水滴が容易に侵入するため水滴除去性が得られない。 The woven or knitted fabric is treated with a water-repellent finish, but if necessary, flame retardant, moisture absorbent, antistatic, antibacterial, soft finish, and other known post-treatments (including resin coating, film lamination, and other treatments that impart functions) can be used in combination, and the washing durability of functional finishes such as flame retardant, moisture absorbent, antistatic, antibacterial, and soft finish agents can also be improved. The water-repellent treatment process is not particularly limited to padding, spraying, coating, and the like, but the padding method is preferred in terms of penetrating the agent into the woven or knitted fabric. On the other hand, if the woven or knitted fabric does not use yarn with water-repellent properties and is not treated with a water-repellent finish, water droplets easily penetrate into the fine air layer on the surface made of the mixed yarn, and water droplet removal cannot be achieved.
 以下実施例を挙げて、本発明の織編物について具体的に説明する。なお、本発明はこれらによって限定されるものではない。 The following examples are provided to specifically explain the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention. Note that the present invention is not limited to these examples.
 実施例および比較例については下記の測定、評価を行った。 The following measurements and evaluations were carried out for the examples and comparative examples.
 A.繊度
 A-1 原糸
 使用する原糸を約1m採取し、温度20℃湿度65%RHの環境下で単位長さ当たりの質量をそれぞれ測定し、その値から10000mに相当する質量を算出する。これを10回繰り返して測定し、その単純平均値の小数点第1位を四捨五入した値をそれぞれの繊度とした。
A. Fineness A-1 Raw yarn Approximately 1 m of raw yarn to be used was taken, and the mass per unit length was measured in an environment of 20°C temperature and 65% RH, and the mass equivalent to 10,000 m was calculated from the measured value. This measurement was repeated 10 times, and the simple average value was rounded off to the first decimal place to determine the fineness of each yarn.
 A-2 織編み物を構成する繊維A,B
 織編み物から、合計長さが約1mとなるように測定対象の繊維を採取し、温度20℃湿度65%RHの環境下で単位長さ当たりの質量をそれぞれ測定し、その値から10000mに相当する質量を算出する。これを10回繰り返して測定し、その単純平均値の小数点第2位を四捨五入した値をそれぞれの繊度とした。
A-2 Fibers A and B constituting woven and knitted fabrics
Fibers to be measured were taken from the woven or knitted fabric so that the total length was about 1 m, and the mass per unit length was measured in an environment of 20°C and 65% RH, and the mass equivalent to 10,000 m was calculated from the measured value. This measurement was repeated 10 times, and the simple average value was rounded off to one decimal place to obtain the fineness of each fiber.
 B.繊度比
 上記Aで測定した繊維Aの繊度と繊維Bの繊度から、次式を用いて繊度比を算出した。
繊度比=前記繊維Aの繊度[dtex]/前記繊維Bの繊度[dtex]。
B. Fineness Ratio The fineness ratio was calculated from the fineness of fiber A and the fineness of fiber B measured in A above, using the following formula.
Fineness ratio=fineness of fiber A [dtex]/fineness of fiber B [dtex].
 C.繊維Aと繊維Bの本数比
 得られた織編物から混繊糸を1本採取し、繊維軸方向(長手方向)に対して垂直に切断した。この横断面中に対して走査型電子顕微鏡(SEM、株式会社日立ハイテクノロジーズ製)で撮影し(倍率500倍)、撮影した写真上で繊維Aおよび繊維Bの本数をそれぞれカウントした。カウントした繊維Aの本数と繊維Bの本数から、次式を用いて本数比を算出した。
本数比=前記繊維Bの本数/前記繊維Aの本数。
C. Ratio of the number of fibers A and B One mixed yarn was taken from the obtained woven or knitted fabric and cut perpendicular to the fiber axis direction (longitudinal direction). The cross section was photographed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM, Hitachi High-Technologies Corporation) (magnification: 500x), and the numbers of fibers A and B were counted on the photograph. The ratio of the number of fibers A and B was calculated using the following formula from the counted numbers of fibers A and B.
Number ratio=number of fibers B/number of fibers A.
 D.繊維Aの凸部個数
 得られた織編物から混繊糸を1本採取し、繊維軸方向(長手方向)に対して垂直に切断した。この横断面中の繊維Aに対して走査型電子顕微鏡(SEM、株式会社日立ハイテクノロジーズ製)で撮影し(倍率3000倍)、撮影した写真上で凸部をカウントした。
D. Number of protrusions of fiber A One mixed yarn was taken from the obtained woven or knitted fabric and cut perpendicularly to the fiber axis direction (longitudinal direction). Fiber A in the cross section was photographed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM, Hitachi High-Technologies Corporation) (magnification 3000 times), and the number of protrusions on the photograph was counted.
 E.繊維Bの扁平度
 得られた織編物から混繊糸を1本採取し、繊維軸方向(長手方向)に対して垂直に切断した。この横断面中の全繊維Bに対して走査型電子顕微鏡(SEM、株式会社日立ハイテクノロジーズ製)で撮影し(倍率3000倍)、画像処理ソフト(ImageJ)を用いて撮影した写真上の繊維B横断面の最大となる長さを長軸方向の長さとし、長軸方向と直行する方向を短軸方向の長さとして測定し、それぞれの単純平均値を算出した。なお、これらの値は小数点第2位まで求め、小数点2位以下を四捨五入するものである。算出した長軸方向と短軸方向の長さから、次式を用いて扁平度を算出した。
扁平度=前記繊維Bの横断面の長軸方向の長さ[μm]/前記繊維Bの横断面の短軸方向の長さ[μm]。
E. Flatness of Fiber B One mixed yarn was taken from the obtained woven or knitted fabric and cut perpendicular to the fiber axis direction (longitudinal direction). All fibers B in the cross section were photographed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM, Hitachi High-Technologies Corporation) (magnification 3000 times), and the maximum length of the fiber B cross section in the photograph was measured using image processing software (ImageJ) as the length in the major axis direction, and the direction perpendicular to the major axis direction was measured as the length in the minor axis direction, and the simple average value of each was calculated. These values were calculated to the second decimal place and rounded off to the nearest tenth. The flatness was calculated from the calculated lengths in the major axis direction and minor axis direction using the following formula.
Flatness=length in the major axis direction of the cross section of fiber B [μm]/length in the minor axis direction of the cross section of fiber B [μm].
 F.織編物表面の繊維Bの捲縮の有無
 得られた織編物の表面を走査型電子顕微鏡(SEM、株式会社日立ハイテクノロジーズ製)で撮影し(倍率50倍)、撮影した写真上で繊維Bの織編物表面上の立体的なねじれ構造やループ構造について確認する。撮影した写真上において、該ねじれ構造やループ構造が1つでもあれば、1とカウントし、これを10か所繰り返して、カウント数が半数を超えた場合に捲縮があると判断した。
F. Presence or absence of crimp of fiber B on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric The surface of the obtained woven or knitted fabric was photographed (magnification 50 times) with a scanning electron microscope (SEM, manufactured by Hitachi High-Technologies Corporation), and the photograph was checked for three-dimensional twisted structure or loop structure on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric of fiber B. If even one such twisted structure or loop structure was found on the photograph, it was counted as 1. This was repeated for 10 places, and if the count number exceeded half, it was determined that crimp was present.
 G.単位面積当たりにおける混繊糸の表面占有率
 得られた織編物の表面を走査型電子顕微鏡(SEM、株式会社日立ハイテクノロジーズ製)で視野全体に織編物の表面が表示されるように撮影し(倍率100倍)、画像処理ソフト(ImageJ)を用いて撮影した写真全体の面積と混繊糸以外が占める面積を抽出して、次式を用いて混繊糸の面積割合を算出する。これを10か所繰り返して測定し、その単純平均値の小数点以下を四捨五入した値を混繊糸の表面占有率とした。
表面占有率[%]=(写真全体の面積[mm]-混繊糸以外の面積[mm])/写真全体の面積[mm]×100。
G. Surface occupancy rate of mixed fiber yarn per unit area The surface of the obtained woven or knitted fabric was photographed (magnification 100x) with a scanning electron microscope (SEM, Hitachi High-Technologies Corporation) so that the surface of the woven or knitted fabric was displayed over the entire field of view, and the area of the entire photograph and the area occupied by areas other than the mixed fiber yarn were extracted using image processing software (ImageJ), and the area ratio of the mixed fiber yarn was calculated using the following formula. This measurement was repeated at 10 locations, and the simple average value was rounded off to the nearest whole number to obtain the surface occupancy rate of the mixed fiber yarn.
Surface occupation rate [%]=(total area of photograph [mm 2 ]−area other than blended yarn [mm 2 ])/total area of photograph [mm 2 ]×100.
 H.水滴滑落角度
 全自動接触角計(DM-SA、協和界面科学株式会社製)を使用し、水平板上に平面状に取り付けた織編物表面上に20μLの水滴を滴下し、等速度(目安1度/秒)で0度から静かに1度ごと傾斜させて、水滴が織編物表面から滑落しきったときの角度を測定した。水滴滑落角度の値が小さいほど水滴除去性に優れると判断した。また、水滴が90度でも滑落しない場合は「滑落なし」とする。
H. Water Droplet Sliding Angle Using a fully automatic contact angle meter (DM-SA, manufactured by Kyowa Interface Science Co., Ltd.), a 20 μL water droplet was dropped onto the surface of a woven or knitted fabric attached flat on a horizontal plate, and the plate was gently tilted from 0 degrees at a constant speed (approximately 1 degree/second) in 1 degree increments, and the angle at which the water droplet completely slid off the woven or knitted fabric surface was measured. The smaller the water droplet sliding angle, the better the water droplet removal ability was judged to be. In addition, if the water droplet did not slide off even at 90 degrees, it was deemed "no sliding off."
 なお、繰り返し洗濯後の水滴滑落度は、JIS L1930:2014-C4M法での洗濯とA法(吊り干し乾燥)での乾燥を20回繰り返し行った織編物を試料として、上記の方法で水滴滑落角度を測定した。 The degree of water droplet sliding after repeated washing was measured using the method described above on a woven or knitted fabric sample that had been washed 20 times using the JIS L1930:2014-C4M method and dried 20 times using the A method (line drying).
 I.伸長率
 得られた織物に対しては、JIS L1096:2010 8.16.1 B法を用いて測定した。また、得られた編物に対しては、JIS L1096:2010 8.16.1 D法を用いて測定した。
I. Elongation The elongation of the obtained woven fabric was measured according to JIS L1096:2010 8.16.1 Method B. The elongation of the obtained knitted fabric was measured according to JIS L1096:2010 8.16.1 Method D.
 J.スパン調風合い
 得られた織編物のスパン調風合いについて、次のとおりの判定を行い、無作為に選んだ10人による評価において、その評価結果の最も多い判定を結果とした。最も多い判定結果が複数ある場合、その中間の評価とした。
  ○:超長綿のような細やかなスパン調風合いをとても感じる
  △:超長綿のような細やかなスパン調風合いをある程度感じる
  ×:超長綿のような細やかなスパン調風合いをまったく感じない。
J. Spun-like texture The spun-like texture of the woven or knitted fabrics obtained was judged as follows, and the most common judgment among the evaluations by 10 randomly selected people was recorded as the result. When there were multiple most common judgments, the intermediate evaluation was recorded.
◯: A fine spun-like texture like extra-long staple cotton is felt very much. Δ: A fine spun-like texture like extra-long staple cotton is felt to some extent. ×: A fine spun-like texture like extra-long staple cotton is not felt at all.
 K.着用時の水滴除去性
 得られた織編物を用いて登山用アウタージャケットを作成した。降雨環境下を想定した実験室(200ml/10分)でかかるアウタージャケットを着用して、降雨後に次のとおりの判定を行い、無作為に選んだ10人による評価において、その評価結果の最も多い判定を結果とした。最も多い判定結果が複数ある場合、その中間の評価とした。なお、着用するアウタージャケットのサイズはJIS L4004:2001 9に基づきそれぞれの体格に適合したサイズ(S、M、L)とした。
  ○:表面にほとんど水滴がなく、水滴除去性が良い
  △:表面に湿潤はないが、水滴がある程度残っている
  ×:表面がある程度湿潤し、水滴除去性が悪い。
K. Water Drop Removal Ability When Worn The obtained woven and knitted fabric was used to create an outer jacket for mountain climbing. The outer jacket was worn in a laboratory simulating a rainy environment (200 ml/10 min), and the following judgments were made after rainfall. The most common judgment among the evaluations by 10 randomly selected people was taken as the result. If there were multiple most common judgments, the intermediate evaluation was taken as the result. The size of the outer jacket to be worn was set to a size (S, M, L) that suited each body type based on JIS L4004:2001 9.
◯: Almost no water droplets on the surface, and water droplet removal is good. Δ: The surface is not wet, but some water droplets remain. ×: The surface is wet to some extent, and water droplet removal is poor.
 L.動作快適性
 上記Kのアウタージャケットを着用して、次のとおりの判定を行い、無作為に選んだ10人による評価において、その評価結果の最も多い判定を結果とした。最も多い判定結果が複数ある場合、その中間の評価とした。なお、それぞれが着用するアウタージャケットのサイズは上記Kと同じものである。
  ○:生地からの圧迫感やつっぱり感をほとんど感じず、動作快適性が良い
  △:生地からの圧迫感やつっぱり感をある程度感じるが、動作快適性が悪いとはいえない
  ×:生地からの圧迫感やつっぱり感をとても感じて、動作快適性が悪い。
L. Comfort in movement Wearing the outer jacket of size K, the following judgments were made, and the most common judgment among the evaluations by 10 randomly selected people was recorded as the result. If there were multiple most common judgments, the intermediate evaluation was recorded. The size of the outer jacket worn by each person was the same as that of size K.
◯: Almost no pressure or tightness from the fabric is felt, and movement comfort is good. △: Some pressure or tightness from the fabric is felt, but movement comfort cannot be said to be bad. ×: There is a strong pressure or tightness from the fabric, and movement comfort is bad.
 [実施例1]
 ポリマーAとして、5-ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を全ジカルボン酸成分に対し8mol%、ポリエチレングリコールを全質量に対し9wt%共重合したポリエチレンテレフタレート(SSIA-PEG共重合PET、溶融粘度:100Pa・s[測定条件:温度290℃、せん断速度1216s-1]、融点:233℃)、ポリマーBとしてイソフタル酸を7mol%共重合したポリエチレンテレフタレート(IPA共重合PET、溶融粘度:140Pa・s[測定条件:温度290℃、せん断速度1216s-1]、融点:232℃)、ポリマーCとしてポリエチレンテレフタレート(PET、溶融粘度:130Pa・s[測定条件:温度290℃、せん断速度1216s-1]、融点:254℃)を準備した。
[Example 1]
As polymer A, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 8 mol % of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid based on the total dicarboxylic acid components and 9 wt % of polyethylene glycol based on the total mass (SSIA-PEG copolymerized PET, melt viscosity: 100 Pa·s [measurement conditions: temperature 290°C, shear rate 1216 s -1 ], melting point: 233°C), as polymer B, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 7 mol % of isophthalic acid (IPA copolymerized PET, melt viscosity: 140 Pa·s [measurement conditions: temperature 290°C, shear rate 1216 s -1 ], melting point: 232°C), and as polymer C, polyethylene terephthalate (PET, melt viscosity: 130 Pa·s [measurement conditions: temperature 290°C, shear rate 1216 s -1 ], melting point: 254°C) were prepared.
 これらのポリマーを290℃で別々に溶融後、ポリマーA/ポリマーB/ポリマーCを質量比で10/45/45となるように計量して、図2に示した複合口金が組み込まれた紡糸パックに流入させ、吐出孔から流入ポリマーを吐出した。該流入ポリマーを吐出する際、難溶出成分であるポリマーBとポリマーCをサイドバイサイド型に接合して、一様に配置された8個の凸部を放射状に有する八葉断面構造の島成分b1(1個)と扁平断面構造の島成分b2(8個)を易溶出成分から構成されるポリマーAからなる海成分aで接合するようにした。また、図2は前記複合口金の断面概念図であり、計量プレート1で計量されたポリマーA~Cがそれぞれ分配プレート2によって、単繊維の断面における複合断面およびその断面形状が制御され、吐出プレート3によって、分配プレート2で形成された複合ポリマー流を圧縮して、吐出する。かかる吐出方法により、図1に示すような円断面形状の海島複合繊維を得た。 These polymers were melted separately at 290°C, and then weighed out to a mass ratio of polymer A/polymer B/polymer C of 10/45/45. The polymers were fed into a spin pack incorporating the composite spinneret shown in Figure 2, and the inflowing polymers were discharged from the discharge holes. When the inflowing polymers were discharged, polymer B and polymer C, which are difficult-to-dissolve components, were joined side-by-side, and island component b1 (1 piece) with an eight-lobe cross-sectional structure having eight uniformly arranged radial convex portions and island component b2 (8 pieces) with a flat cross-sectional structure were joined by sea component a made of polymer A consisting of an easily soluble component. Figure 2 is a cross-sectional conceptual diagram of the composite spinneret, and polymers A to C measured by the metering plate 1 are each controlled by the distribution plate 2 to have a composite cross section and its cross-sectional shape in the cross section of a single fiber, and the composite polymer flow formed by the distribution plate 2 is compressed and discharged by the discharge plate 3. By this discharge method, a sea-island composite fiber with a circular cross-sectional shape as shown in Figure 1 was obtained.
 吐出された複合ポリマー流に冷却固化後油剤を付与し、紡糸速度1500m/minで巻取り、90℃と130℃に加熱したローラー間で延伸を行うことで、84dtex-24フィラメントの海島複合繊維を得た。なお、海成分a溶出後の島部b1が繊維A、島部b2が繊維Bに相当する。 The discharged composite polymer flow was cooled and solidified, after which an oil agent was added, and the flow was wound up at a spinning speed of 1500 m/min. The flow was then stretched between rollers heated to 90°C and 130°C to obtain a sea-island composite fiber of 84 dtex-24 filaments. Note that after the sea component a is dissolved, the island part b1 corresponds to fiber A, and the island part b2 corresponds to fiber B.
 得られた海島複合繊維を経糸および緯糸としてエアージェットルームを用いて、2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物を連続精練し、液流染色機で1質量%の水酸化ナトリウム水溶液を用いて90℃に加熱し海成分を除去し(減量率10%)、液流染色機で130℃、30分間のリラックス加工を施し、180℃、1分間、幅出し率5%の条件の中間セットを経て、通常の染色加工を施した。次いで、“ネオシード”(登録商標)NR-158(日華化学社製、非フッ素系(パラフィン系)撥水剤、固形分30%)を4質量%、“ベッカミン”(登録商標)M-3(DIC社製)を0.2質量%、キャタリストACX(DIC社製)を0.15質量%、イソプロプルアルコール1質量%、水94.65質量%で混合した処理液に浸漬し、マングルにて絞り率60%で絞液後、ピンテンターにより130℃、2分間で乾燥、170℃、1分間でキュアリングする撥水加工を実施した。かくして図3に示すように、繊維A4と繊維B5とが分離した混繊糸からなる経糸密度172本/2.54cm、緯糸密度143本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2598の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。 The resulting sea-island composite fibers were used as warp and weft in an air jet loom to produce a 2/1 twill fabric. The resulting fabric was continuously scoured, heated to 90°C using a 1% by mass aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide in a jet dyeing machine to remove the sea component (weight loss of 10%), relaxed in the jet dyeing machine at 130°C for 30 minutes, and then subjected to an intermediate set at 180°C for 1 minute with a tenter extension ratio of 5%, before being subjected to a normal dyeing process. Next, the fabric was immersed in a treatment solution containing 4% by weight of "Neoseed" (registered trademark) NR-158 (Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd., non-fluorine-based (paraffin-based) water repellent, solid content 30%), 0.2% by weight of "Beckamin" (registered trademark) M-3 (DIC Corporation), 0.15% by weight of Catalyst ACX (DIC Corporation), 1% by weight of isopropyl alcohol, and 94.65% by weight of water, and then squeezed to a squeezing rate of 60% using a mangle. The fabric was then dried at 130°C for 2 minutes using a pin tenter, and cured at 170°C for 1 minute to perform a water repellent treatment. As shown in Figure 3, a 2/1 twill fabric was obtained, which has a warp density of 172 threads/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 threads/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2598, and is made of a mixed yarn in which fiber A4 and fiber B5 are separated. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [実施例2]
 実施例1で得られる混繊糸の繊維Aと繊維Bの繊度比が1.5となるように、海島複合繊維の吐出方法を変更して227dtex-24フィラメントの海島複合繊維を得たこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で、経糸密度104本/2.54cm、緯糸密度87本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2590の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Example 2]
A 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 104 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 87 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2590 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the method of discharging the sea-island composite fiber was changed to obtain a sea-island composite fiber of 227 dtex-24 filaments so that the fineness ratio of fiber A to fiber B in the mixed yarn obtained in Example 1 was 1.5. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [実施例3]
 実施例1の断面形状を楕円形状とした海島複合繊維で、島成分b1、b2の個数をそれぞれ5個ずつの断面に変更して238dtex-24フィラメントの海島複合繊維を得たこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で、経糸密度102本/2.54cm、緯糸密度85本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2596の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Example 3]
A 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 102 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 85 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2596 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the numbers of island components b1 and b2 in the sea-island composite fiber having an elliptical cross section of Example 1 were changed to five each to obtain a sea-island composite fiber of 238 dtex-24 filaments. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [実施例4]
 実施例1に記載の織物を製織する際、経糸にポリエチレンテレフタレートからなる丸断面形状のマルチフィラメント(76dtex-24フィラメント)を、緯糸に実施例1の海島複合繊維を配したこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で、経糸密度172本/2.54cm、緯糸密度143本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2602の4/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Example 4]
The same method as in Example 1 was used to weave the fabric described in Example 1, except that polyethylene terephthalate multifilaments (76 dtex-24 filaments) having a round cross section were used as the warp yarns and the sea-island composite fibers of Example 1 were used as the weft yarns, thereby obtaining a 4/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2602. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [実施例5]
 実施例4に記載の織物を製織する際、織組織を8枚5飛び朱子織に変更したこと以外は実施例4と同様の方法で、経糸密度172本/2.54cm、緯糸密度142本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2594の8枚5飛び朱子織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Example 5]
The same method as in Example 4 was used to weave the fabric described in Example 4, except that the weave structure was changed to an 8-ply, 5-leaf skip satin weave, to obtain an 8-ply, 5-leaf skip satin weave with a warp density of 172 threads/2.54 cm, a weft density of 142 threads/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2594. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [実施例6]
 実施例1で得られる海島複合繊維を鞘糸とし、ポリエチレンテレフタレートとポリトリメチレンテレフタレートとがサイドバイサイド型のバイメタル構造に複合された伸縮性繊維からなる丸断面形状のマルチフィラメント(138dtex-48フィラメント)を芯糸としてタスラン加工することで混繊糸(222dtex-72フィラメント)を得た。かかる混繊糸に変更したこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で、経糸密度103本/2.54cm、緯糸密度85本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2607の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Example 6]
A mixed yarn (222 dtex-72 filaments) was obtained by taslan processing using the sea-island composite fiber obtained in Example 1 as a sheath yarn and a multifilament (138 dtex-48 filaments) having a round cross section made of an elastic fiber in which polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate were composited into a side-by-side bimetal structure as a core yarn. A 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 103 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 85 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2607 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except for using this mixed yarn. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [実施例7]
 実施例1と同様の方法で海島複合繊維を製造し、その繊維を用いて28Gの丸編み機を用いてスムース組織の編物を得た。得られた編物を連続精練し、液流染色機で1質量%の水酸化ナトリウム水溶液を用いて90℃に加熱し海成分を除去し(減量率10%)、液流染色機で130℃、30分のリラックス加工を施し、180℃、1分間、幅出し率5%の条件の中間セットを経て、通常の染色加工を施した。次いで、“ネオシード”(登録商標)NR-158(日華化学社製、非フッ素系(パラフィン系)撥水剤、固形分30%)を4質量%、“ベッカミン”(登録商標)M-3(DIC社製、固形分80%)を0.2質量%、キャタリストACX(DIC社製)を0.15質量%、イソプロプルアルコール1質量%、水94.65質量%で混合した処理液に浸漬し、マングルにて絞り率60%で絞液後、ピンテンターにより130℃×2分で乾燥、170℃×1分でキュアリングしてスムース編物を得た。得られた編物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Example 7]
A sea-island composite fiber was produced in the same manner as in Example 1, and the fiber was used to produce a knitted fabric with a smooth structure on a 28G circular knitting machine. The knitted fabric was continuously scoured, heated to 90°C using a 1% by mass aqueous sodium hydroxide solution in a jet dyeing machine to remove the sea component (weight reduction rate: 10%), and subjected to a relax process at 130°C for 30 minutes in the jet dyeing machine, and then subjected to an intermediate set condition at 180°C for 1 minute with a tentering rate of 5%, followed by a normal dyeing process. Next, the knitted fabric was immersed in a treatment solution containing 4% by mass of "NEOSEED" (registered trademark) NR-158 (manufactured by NICCA Chemical Co., Ltd., non-fluorinated (paraffin-based) water repellent, solid content 30%), 0.2% by mass of "BECKAMINE" (registered trademark) M-3 (manufactured by DIC Corporation, solid content 80%), 0.15% by mass of Catalyst ACX (manufactured by DIC Corporation), 1% by mass of isopropyl alcohol, and 94.65% by mass of water, and then squeezed out at a squeezing rate of 60% using a mangle, dried at 130°C x 2 minutes using a pin tenter, and cured at 170°C x 1 minute to obtain a smooth knitted fabric. The evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [実施例8]
 実施例1で得られた海島複合繊維を倍率1.05倍で仮撚加工し80dtex-24フィラメントの仮撚加工糸としたこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で経糸密度172本/2.54cm、緯糸密度143本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2535の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Example 8]
A 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 172 threads/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 threads/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2535 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the sea-island composite fiber obtained in Example 1 was false twisted at a ratio of 1.05 to form a false twist textured yarn of 80 dtex-24 filaments. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [比較例1]
 実施例1で得られる海島複合繊維の島成分b1、b2が同繊度となるように吐出方法を変更して238dtex-24フィラメントの海島複合繊維を得たこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で、経糸密度102本/2.54cm、緯糸密度85本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2596の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Comparative Example 1]
A 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 102 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 85 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2596 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the extrusion method was changed so that the island components b1 and b2 of the sea-island composite fiber obtained in Example 1 had the same fineness, to obtain a sea-island composite fiber of 238 dtex-24 filaments. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [比較例2]
 実施例1と同様の方法で2/1斜文織物を得た後、染色加工後の撥水加工を行わないこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で、経糸密度172本/2.54cm、緯糸密度143本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2598の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Comparative Example 2]
A 2/1 twill fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, and then a 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 172 threads/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 threads/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the water-repellent treatment after dyeing was not performed. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [比較例3]
 実施例1の断面形状を楕円形状とした海島複合繊維で、島成分b1が凸部を有さない円形の断面に変更したこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で、経糸密度172本/2.54cm、緯糸密度143本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2598の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Comparative Example 3]
A 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the sea-island composite fibers in Example 1, whose cross section was elliptical, were changed to island component b1 having a circular cross section having no convex portions. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [比較例4]
 実施例1の断面形状を楕円形状とした海島複合繊維で、島成分b1が一様に配置された3個の凸部を有する三葉断面に変更したこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で、経糸密度171本/2.54cm、緯糸密度143本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2590の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Comparative Example 4]
A 2/1 twill fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, with a warp density of 171 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2590, except that the island component b1 was changed to a trilobal cross section having three uniformly arranged convex portions from the sea-island composite fiber of Example 1 having an elliptical cross section. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [比較例5]
 実施例1の断面形状を楕円形状とした海島複合繊維で、溶出後の繊維Bの扁平度が1.0になるように島成分b2の扁平度を小さくした正円断面に変更したこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で、経糸密度172本/2.54cm、緯糸密度143本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2598の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Comparative Example 5]
A 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the sea-island composite fiber in Example 1, which had an elliptical cross section, was changed to a perfect circle by reducing the flatness of island component b2 so that the flatness of fiber B after leaching would be 1.0. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [比較例6]
 実施例1の断面形状を楕円形状とした海島複合繊維で、溶出後の繊維Bの扁平度が7.0になるように島成分b2の扁平度を大きくした扁平断面に変更したこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で、経糸密度172本/2.54cm、緯糸密度143本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2598の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Comparative Example 6]
A 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the sea-island composite fiber of Example 1 having an elliptical cross section was changed to a flatter cross section with an increased flatness of island component b2 so that the flatness of fiber B after leaching would be 7.0. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [比較例7]
 実施例1で得られる海島複合繊維の島成分b1がポリマーBのみで構成されるように吐出方法を変更したこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で、経糸密度172本/2.54cm、緯糸密度144本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2607の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Comparative Example 7]
A 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 144 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2607 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the extrusion method was changed so that the island component b1 of the sea-island composite fiber obtained in Example 1 was composed only of polymer B. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [比較例8]
 実施例1で得られる海島複合繊維の島成分b2がポリマーBのみで構成されるように吐出方法を変更したこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で、経糸密度172本/2.54cm、緯糸密度143本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2598の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Comparative Example 8]
A 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the extrusion method was changed so that the island component b2 of the sea-island composite fiber obtained in Example 1 was composed only of polymer B. The evaluation results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
 [比較例9]
 実施例1に記載の織物を連続精練した後、200℃、1分間、幅出し率2%の条件で熱セットして、液流染色機で1質量%の水酸化ナトリウム水溶液を用いて90℃に加熱し海成分を除去し(減量率10%)、リラックス加工をしないように変更したこと以外は実施例1と同様の方法で、経糸密度171本/2.54cm、緯糸密度143本/2.54cm、カバーファクタ(CF)が2590の2/1斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Comparative Example 9]
The woven fabric described in Example 1 was continuously scoured, then heat-set at 200°C for 1 minute with a tentering ratio of 2%, and heated to 90°C using a 1% by mass aqueous sodium hydroxide solution in a jet dyeing machine to remove the sea component (weight loss rate: 10%), and a 2/1 twill fabric with a warp density of 171 threads/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 threads/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2590 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the relaxation processing was not performed. The evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000001
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000001
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000002
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000002
 表1、2に示すとおり、実施例1~6、8の織物、あるいは実施例7の編物については、スパン調の風合いと撥水性、動作快適性が優れていることがわかる。特に、実施例1、6の織物および実施例7の編物は、断面形状における繊維Aの凸部個数や繊維Bの扁平度を好ましい範囲に制御して、繊度と本数に差があるバイメタル構造の繊維Aと繊維Bを含む混繊糸のみを用いて撥水加工した織編物とすることで、表面に繊維Bの捲縮からなる微細な空気層を有する凹凸構造が極めて効果的に形成され、スパン調の風合いと水滴除去性、動作快適性のすべてに優れる、極めて実用性の高い織編物であった。また、実施例8の織物は仮撚加工による微細捲縮の効果も加わり、スパン調の風合いと水滴除去性、動作快適性のすべてにより一層優れるものであった。一方、比較例1の織物は、繊維Aと繊維Bに繊度差がなく捲縮差による凹凸構造が形成されないため、風合い、水滴除去性に劣る織物であった。比較例2の織物は、撥水加工を施していないことで水滴を吸収してしまうため、水滴除去性のない織物であった。比較例3、4の織物は、繊維Aの凸部が0個、3個と少なく風合い、水滴除去性に劣る織物であった。比較例5の織物は、繊維Bの扁平度が1.0の正円状となることで風合い、水滴除去性に劣る織物であった。比較例6の織物は、繊維Bの扁平度が7.0と大きく、繊維Bが薄くなりすぎることで風合いに劣る織物であった。比較例7の織物は、繊維Aが二種類のポリマーを含むバイメタル構造ではないため、伸長率が5%と衣料に用いた際には快適な着心地が得られる水準のものではなく、動作快適性に劣る織物であった。比較例8の織物は、繊維Bが二種類のポリマーを含むバイメタル構造ではないため、繊維Bの捲縮がなく、スパン調の風合いに劣る織物であった。比較例9の織物は、連続精練後に高温で熱セットして混繊糸の繊維Aと繊維Bの潜在捲縮が発現できなくなったことで、捲縮差による凹凸構造や織物表面に繊維Bの捲縮を有さない、風合い、水滴除去性、動作快適性のすべてに劣る織物であった。 As shown in Tables 1 and 2, the woven fabrics of Examples 1 to 6 and 8, and the knitted fabric of Example 7, are excellent in spun-like texture, water repellency, and operating comfort. In particular, the woven fabrics of Examples 1 and 6 and the knitted fabric of Example 7 are water-repellent woven and knitted fabrics made only from blended yarns containing bimetallic fiber A and fiber B with different fineness and number, by controlling the number of convex parts of fiber A in the cross-sectional shape and the flatness of fiber B within a preferred range, and an uneven structure with fine air layers formed by the crimp of fiber B on the surface is formed very effectively, resulting in a highly practical woven and knitted fabric that is excellent in all of the spun-like texture, water droplet removal, and operating comfort. In addition, the woven fabric of Example 8 is further excellent in all of the spun-like texture, water droplet removal, and operating comfort, thanks to the effect of fine crimping caused by false twisting. On the other hand, the woven fabric of Comparative Example 1 was inferior in texture and water droplet removal properties because there was no difference in fineness between fiber A and fiber B and no uneven structure due to shrinkage difference was formed. The woven fabric of Comparative Example 2 was a woven fabric with no water droplet removal properties because it absorbed water droplets due to the lack of water repellency treatment. The woven fabrics of Comparative Examples 3 and 4 were woven fabrics with poor texture and water droplet removal properties because the number of convex parts of fiber A was 0 and 3, respectively. The woven fabric of Comparative Example 5 was a woven fabric with poor texture and water droplet removal properties because fiber B had a flatness of 1.0 and a perfect circle shape. The woven fabric of Comparative Example 6 was a woven fabric with poor texture because fiber B had a large flatness of 7.0 and fiber B was too thin. The woven fabric of Comparative Example 7 was a woven fabric with poor texture because fiber A did not have a bimetal structure containing two types of polymers, and therefore had an elongation rate of 5%, which was not at a level that would provide a comfortable fit when used in clothing, and was inferior in operating comfort. The fabric of Comparative Example 8 was inferior in texture, water droplet removal, and operating comfort because fiber B did not have a bimetal structure containing two types of polymers and therefore did not have any crimp of fiber B. The fabric of Comparative Example 9 was inferior in texture, water droplet removal, and operating comfort because the potential crimp of fiber A and fiber B of the blended yarn could not be expressed by heat setting at high temperature after continuous scouring, and therefore did not have an uneven structure due to the difference in crimp or crimp of fiber B on the fabric surface.
 本発明の撥水性織編物は、前述した特徴を持つ混繊糸を含むことで高い撥水性を有し、かつ着用快適なストレッチ性とスパン調の風合いにも優れているため、該撥水性織編物を用いることでかかる機能性と風合いに優れた衣料や繊維製品とすることができる。かかる衣料、繊維製品には、ダウンやジャケット、スカート、パンツ、Tシャツ、セーターなどの一般的なカジュアル衣料から、登山やスキー、ゴルフ、ランニングなどの各種スポーツ衣料、土木工事等の作業用アウターや防塵衣、医療用ガウンなどのユニフォーム衣料、ソファーやカーテンなどのインテリア製品、カーシートなどの車輌内装品など多岐に渡る分野に極めて好適に応用することができる。 The water-repellent woven/knitted fabric of the present invention has high water repellency due to the inclusion of the blended yarn having the above-mentioned characteristics, and also has excellent stretchability and spun-like texture that is comfortable to wear, so that the use of this water-repellent woven/knitted fabric can be used to produce clothing and textile products with excellent functionality and texture. Such clothing and textile products can be extremely suitably applied to a wide range of fields, from general casual clothing such as down jackets, jackets, skirts, pants, T-shirts, and sweaters, to various sports clothing for mountain climbing, skiing, golf, running, etc., work outerwear and dustproof clothing for civil engineering work, uniform clothing such as medical gowns, interior products such as sofas and curtains, and vehicle interior products such as car seats.
a:海成分
b1:島成分
b2:島成分
1:計量プレート
2:分配プレート
3:吐出プレート
4:繊維A
5:繊維B
a: Sea component b1: Island component b2: Island component 1: Metering plate 2: Distribution plate 3: Discharge plate 4: Fiber A
5: Fiber B

Claims (7)

  1. 横断面が外周部に凸部を有する多葉形状である繊維Aと横断面が扁平形状である繊維Bとを有する混繊糸を含み、以下の要件を満たす織編物。
    (1)前記繊維Aの凸部は、6~30個である。
    (2)前記繊維Bの扁平度が1.1~5.0である。
    (3)繊維Aよりも繊維Bが細い繊度である。
    (4)前記織編物表面に前記繊維Bの捲縮を有する。
    (5)前記繊維Aと前記繊維Bは、いずれも二種類のポリマーを含むバイメタル構造の捲縮繊維である。
    (6)前記織編物表面に撥水剤を有する。
    A woven or knitted fabric comprising a mixed yarn having fiber A having a multi-lobal cross section with a convex portion on the outer periphery and fiber B having a flat cross section, and satisfying the following requirements.
    (1) The number of protrusions of the fiber A is 6 to 30.
    (2) The flatness of the fiber B is 1.1 to 5.0.
    (3) Fiber B has a finer fiber size than fiber A.
    (4) The woven or knitted fabric has crimps of the fiber B on the surface.
    (5) Both the fiber A and the fiber B are crimped fibers having a bimetallic structure containing two types of polymers.
    (6) The woven or knitted fabric has a surface with a water repellent.
  2. 生地表面の水滴滑落角度が1~45度である、請求項1に記載の織編物。 The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, in which the water droplet sliding angle on the fabric surface is 1 to 45 degrees.
  3. 繰り返し洗濯20回後の生地表面の水滴滑落角度が、1~60度である、請求項2に記載の織編物。 The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 2, in which the water droplet sliding angle on the fabric surface after 20 repeated washings is 1 to 60 degrees.
  4. 経方向または緯方向の伸長率が10~100%である、請求項1~3のいずれかに記載の織編物。 A woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the stretch rate in the warp or weft direction is 10 to 100%.
  5. 前記繊維Aの繊度が0.5~5.0dtexであり、前記繊維Aの繊度[dtex]/前記繊維Bの繊度[dtex]で表される繊度比が2.0以上である請求項1~4のいずれかに記載の織編物。 A woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the fineness of fiber A is 0.5 to 5.0 dtex, and the fineness ratio expressed as the fineness of fiber A [dtex] / the fineness of fiber B [dtex] is 2.0 or more.
  6. 前記繊維Bの本数/前記繊維Aの本数で表される本数比が2以上である請求項1~5のいずれかに記載の織編物。 A woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the ratio of the number of fibers B to the number of fibers A is 2 or more.
  7. 単位面積当たりにおける前記混繊糸の表面占有率が20%以上である請求項1~6のいずれかに記載の織編物。 A woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the surface occupancy rate of the mixed fiber yarn per unit area is 20% or more.
PCT/JP2023/033527 2022-09-29 2023-09-14 Woven/knitted article WO2024070727A1 (en)

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Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0959847A (en) * 1995-08-21 1997-03-04 Toray Ind Inc Polyester water-resistant woven fabric and its production
JPH09279418A (en) * 1996-04-16 1997-10-28 Toray Ind Inc Three-component conjugated fiber

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0959847A (en) * 1995-08-21 1997-03-04 Toray Ind Inc Polyester water-resistant woven fabric and its production
JPH09279418A (en) * 1996-04-16 1997-10-28 Toray Ind Inc Three-component conjugated fiber

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