WO2023186193A1 - Hexapeptide, composition comprising thereof and topical use thereof - Google Patents

Hexapeptide, composition comprising thereof and topical use thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023186193A1
WO2023186193A1 PCT/CZ2023/050016 CZ2023050016W WO2023186193A1 WO 2023186193 A1 WO2023186193 A1 WO 2023186193A1 CZ 2023050016 W CZ2023050016 W CZ 2023050016W WO 2023186193 A1 WO2023186193 A1 WO 2023186193A1
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Prior art keywords
hexapeptide
group
fwahkk
extract
composition according
Prior art date
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PCT/CZ2023/050016
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Iva DOLECKOVA
Paulina ORZOL
Sergej KAREL
Katerina VASICKOVA
Jana POLASKOVA
Gloria HUERTA ANGELES
Ludmila PETROVICOVA
Vladimir Velebny
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Contipro A.S.
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Publication of WO2023186193A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023186193A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K38/00Medicinal preparations containing peptides
    • A61K38/04Peptides having up to 20 amino acids in a fully defined sequence; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K38/00Medicinal preparations containing peptides
    • A61K38/04Peptides having up to 20 amino acids in a fully defined sequence; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/08Peptides having 5 to 11 amino acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/06Antipsoriatics
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/10Anti-acne agents
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07KPEPTIDES
    • C07K7/00Peptides having 5 to 20 amino acids in a fully defined sequence; Derivatives thereof
    • C07K7/04Linear peptides containing only normal peptide links
    • C07K7/06Linear peptides containing only normal peptide links having 5 to 11 amino acids

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the artificially designed peptide of the sequence X-Phe- Trp-Ala-His-Lys-Lys-Z, derivatives or complexes with metal ions thereof, a topical composition comprising thereof and topical use thereof. It relates more particularly to use of the peptides for the treatment of the skin of humans or animals for cosmetic or dermo- pharmaceutical purposes.
  • Acne vulgaris (henceforth acne) is a very common chronic skin disease of the pilosebaceous unit with profound negative psychosocial impact on the quality of life of patients. Although it affects individuals of all ages, it usually appears during adolescence and frequently persists into the adulthood (Yentzer et al. 2010).
  • the pathogenesis of acne vulgaris is multifactorial with four core events: hyperseborrhoea, epithelial hyperproliferation and hyperkeratinization, Cutibacterium acnes colonization, and inflammation.
  • Another typical event in acne pathogenesis is hyperproliferation of follicular keratinocytes and their abnormal differentiation (Thiboutot 2000).
  • the latter is associated with increased cohesiveness of comeocytes leading to their impaired desquamation (Thiboutot 2000).
  • the accumulated mass of keratinized comeocytes together with sebum partially obstructs follicles resulting in their extension and creating favorable conditions for the growth of C. acnes (Thiboutot 2000).
  • C. acnes is a bacterium living in and on the human skin as part of the normal human skin microbiome. It predominantly resides deep within the sebaceous follicle in contact with keratinocytes.
  • C. acnes plays a significant role in the pathogenesis of acne (McLaughlin et al. 2019). It seems, that for acne development the overall C. acnes number is not as important as the presence of certain C. acnes strains (Dreno et al. 2018). These acne- associated strains were shown to be more virulent and produce a large number of various pro- inflammatory factors (Dreno et al. 2018). Inflammation
  • Inflammation is regarded as a key part in the pathogenesis of acne.
  • inflammation was thought to be a secondary event induced by C. acnes colonization.
  • Recently, inflammatory processes are suggested to be involved in all stages of acne development and acne is nowadays considered as genuinely inflammatory disease (Tanghetti 2013).
  • a combination of a topical retinoid tretinoin, isotretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene, retinol, retinaldehyde etc.
  • an antimicrobial agent e.g. benzoyl peroxide
  • Hormonal, anti-androgen therapy oral contraceptives, spironolactone is often given to women to reduce sebum production.
  • Topical or oral antibiotics are used in treatment of moderate-to-severe acne usually in combination with benzoyl peroxide or retinoids.
  • topical anti-acne agents salicylic acid, azelaic acid, zinc, sulfur, niacinamide, glycolic acid and antimicrobial peptides can be mentioned (Liu et al. 2020).
  • Zinc level in acne patients is often significantly lower and its supplementation (oral or topical) have been shown to improve acne (Yee et al. 2020). Although its exact mechanism of action is not fully understood, current knowledge suggests multiple mechanisms including anti- inflammatory, antioxidant effects, inhibition of C. acnes proliferation and inhibition of 5 a- reductase leading to reduced sebum production in vivo (Abendrot and Kalinowska-Lis 2018; Cervantes et al. 2018).
  • AMP antimicrobial
  • Frog skin-derived AMP [D4k]ascaphin-8, [G4K]XT-7, [T5k]temporin-DRa, brevinin- 2GU, and B2RP-Era (Popovic et al. 2012)
  • Bombinin-like peptide 7 (BLP-7) from Bombina orientalis (Wu et al. 2020)
  • Cathelicidin-BF has been purified from the snake venoms of Bungarus fasciatus (Wang et al. 2011)
  • Bacteriocin-like inhibitory substance produced by Streptococcus salivarius (Bowe et al. 2006)
  • KR20200101767A Peptide having anti-microbial activity and compositions for anti- microbial comprising the same KTTKS
  • the subject-matter of the invention concerns a hexapeptide having a general formula I
  • X is -NHX 1 group of phenylalanine at the N-terminal end of the hexapeptide, wherein
  • X 1 is selected from a group comprising H, acetyl, octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, oleoyl, biotinoyl or lipoyl.
  • X 1 is H.
  • Z is -COZ 1 group of lysine at the C-terminal end of the hexapeptide, wherein Z 1 is selected from a group comprising OH, OCH 3 , OCH 2 CH 3 or NH 2 .
  • Z 1 is OH.
  • the hexapeptide according to the present invention is preferably the enhancer of the skin cells so that it can be applied topically in the skin and it can be called also the topical hexapeptide.
  • the hexapeptide of the general formula I according to the present invention is preferably in a form of a complex with a metal ion selected from a group comprising zinc ion, copper ion, manganese ion or magnesium ion.
  • the metal ion is bound by a coordination covalent bond in the complex.
  • metal ion is zinc ion (Zn 2+ ) and the complex is schematically stated below as Zn-FWAHKK complex or simply as Zn-FWAHKK.
  • the hexapeptide of the general formula I according to the present invention may be optically pure or be composed of L- or D-isomers or a mixture thereof. L-isomers, which are those found in nature, are preferred.
  • the hexapeptide of the present invention may be in the form of salts, especially salts of hydrochloric acid, formic acid or acetic acid, or any salts commonly used in cosmetics.
  • Another embodiment according to the present invention is a topical composition comprising at least one hexapeptide of the general formula I as defined above.
  • a concentration of the hexapeptide of the general formula I is in the range of 0.0001 to 0.135 % (w/w), preferably in the range of 0.001 to 0.05 % (w/w), more preferably from 0.001 to 0.0135 % (w/w).
  • Amount of the hexapeptide depends on the purpose of the composition and the desired final effect.
  • This invention also includes the topical composition, that contains at least one hexapeptide according to the invention in a form for the topical skin application that may be selected from a group comprising cream, serum, anhydrous gel, paste, dispersion of vesicles, powder, nanofibers, macro-, micro-, or nano-capsules, macro-, micro- or nano-spheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macro-, micro-, or nanoparticles or macro-, micro- or nano-sponges, which may be adsorbed on organic polymer powders, talcs, bentonites and other inorganic or organic supports.
  • a group comprising cream, serum, anhydrous gel, paste, dispersion of vesicles, powder, nanofibers, macro-, micro-, or nano-capsules, macro-, micro- or nano-spheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macro-, micro-, or nanoparticles
  • the topical composition according to the present invention is in the form of the cream selected from a group comprising a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, a micro- or nano- emulsion.
  • the topical composition according to the present invention is in the form of the serum selected from a group comprising sterile or nonsterile aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solution or gel.
  • the composition is in a form selected from a group comprising cream or serum.
  • the concentration of the hexapeptide of the general formula I is in the range of 0.0001 to 0.135 % (w/w), preferably 0.001 % to 0.0135 % (w/w).
  • composition in the form of cream additionally comprises at least one cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical auxiliary ingredient selected from a group comprising oil, wax, butter, emulsifier, auxiliary active ingredient and preservative.
  • cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical auxiliary ingredient selected from a group comprising oil, wax, butter, emulsifier, auxiliary active ingredient and preservative.
  • the amount of oil, wax, butter or a mixture thereof in the composition according to the present invention is in the range of 20 to 55 % (w/w), preferably 20 to 40 % (w/w), more preferably 20 to 30 % (w/w).
  • the amount of emulsifier in the composition according to the present invention is in the range of 1 to 20 % (w/w), preferably 2-15 % (w/w), more preferably 2-10 % (w/w).
  • the amount of auxiliary active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention is in the range of 0.001 to 20 % (w/w), preferably 0.001 to 10 % (w/w), more preferably 0.001 to 5 % (w/w).
  • the amount of preservative in the composition according to the present invention is in the range of 0.1 to 2.5 % (w/w), preferably 0.1 to 1.5 % (w/w), more preferably 0.8 to 1.2 % (w/w).
  • the oil is selected from a group comprising argan, coconut, avocado, almond, sesame, olive, sunflower, hemp, jojoba, macadamia, wheat germ, marula, meadowfoam, rice, poppy, rosehip, apricot, castor oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride;
  • the butter is selected from a group comprising cocoa butter, shea butter, illipe butter, kokum butter, murumuru butter, mango butter, cupuacu butter, avocado butter; and the wax is selected from a group comprising lanolin, beeswax, carnauba, candelilla wax and petrolatum.
  • the emulsifier is selected from a group comprising glyceryl stearate, glyceryl caprylate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl behenate, cetearyl glucoside, methyl glucose sequistearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, cetearyl olivate, lecithin, stearyl alcohol, sorbitan oleate, polysorbate, stearic acid, cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, sodium acrylate, sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80 or mixtures thereof.
  • the topical composition according to the present invention in the form of cream containing at least one hexapeptide according to the invention may also be combined with other auxiliary active ingredients that can have synergistic or additional effect to enhance or extend the desired activity described in the invention.
  • the auxiliary active ingredient is selected from a group comprising following agents: anti-acne, anti-aging, anti- wrinkle, lightening, whitening, anti-spots, pro-pigmenting, hydrating, moisturizing, humectants, slimming, exfoliating, anti- redness, anti-inflammatory, antioxidants, radical scavengers, anti-glycation, volumizing, restructuring, rejuvenating, regenerating, anti-carbonylation, dermo-relaxing, improving stratum corneum, dermo-epidermal junction, firmness, elasticity, collagen boosters, eye contours (dark circles and under eye bags), promoting blood circulation etc.
  • auxiliary active ingredients may be synthetic or obtained from plant, bacteria, fungi, cell cultures or their products.
  • the auxiliary active ingredient is selected from a group comprising vitamins A, D, E, K, C, B-group vitamins, coenzyme Q10, allantoin, bisabolol, bakuchiol, resveratrol, lactic acid, amino acids, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, azelaic acid, peptides preferably acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide- 1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, copper tripeptide- 1, hexapeptide- 1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, saccharomyces peptides, and proteins, preferably rice, soy, quinoa or wheat protein; polysaccharides preferably hyaluronic acid or its pharmaceutically and cosmetically acceptable salt or derivative preferably sodium oleoyl hyaluronate, sodium retinoyl hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer-3; carb
  • the preservative is selected from the group comprising aromatic acids and derivatives thereof preferably benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid, potassium sorbate, parabens; alcohols preferably ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, phenethyl alcohol; imidazole derivatives preferably hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea; cationic surfactants preferably benzalkonium chloride.
  • aromatic acids and derivatives thereof preferably benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid, potassium sorbate, parabens
  • alcohols preferably ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, phenethyl alcohol
  • imidazole derivatives preferably hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea
  • cationic surfactants preferably benzalkonium chloride.
  • the concentration of the hexapeptide of the general formula I is in the range of 0.001 to 0.135 % (w/w), preferably 0.001 % to 0.0135 % (w/w).
  • composition in the form of serum additionally comprises at least one cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical auxiliary ingredient selected from a group comprising thickener, auxiliary active ingredient and preservative as defined above.
  • the amount of thickener in the composition according to the present invention is in the range of 0.1 to 20 % (w/w), preferably 0.1 to 5 % (w/w), more preferably 0.2 to 0.5 % (w/w).
  • the amount of auxiliary active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention is in the range of 0.001 to 20 % (w/w), preferably 0.001 to 10 % (w/w), more preferably 0.001 to 5 % (w/w).
  • the amount of preservative in the composition according to the present invention is in the range of 0.1 to 2.5 % (w/w), preferably 0.1 to 1.5 % (w/w), more preferably 0.8 to 1.2 % (w/w).
  • the thickener is selected from a group comprising xantham gum, sclerotium gum, guar gum, cellulose gum, carbomer, hydroxy ethylcellulose, Amorphophallus konjac root extract, karagenan, pullulan, lecithin, lysolecithin, sodium acrylate, sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80 or mixtures thereof.
  • the topical composition according to the present invention containing at least one hexapeptide according to the invention may also be combined with other auxiliary active ingredients that can have synergistic or additional effect to enhance or extend the desired activity described in the invention.
  • the auxiliary active ingredient is selected from a group comprising following agents: anti-acne, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, lightening, whitening, anti- spots, pro-pigmenting, hydrating, moisturizing, humectants, slimming, exfoliating, anti- redness, anti-inflammatory, antioxidants, radical scavengers, anti-glycation, volumizing, restructuring, rejuvenating, regenerating, anti-carbonylation, dermo-relaxing, improving stratum comeum, dermo-epidermal junction, firmness, elasticity, collagen boosters, eye contours (dark circles and under eye bags), promoting blood circulation etc.
  • auxiliary active ingredients may be synthetic or obtained from plant, bacteria, fungi, cell cultures or their products.
  • the auxiliary active ingredient is selected from a group comprising vitamin C and B-group vitamins; amino acids, peptides preferably acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide- 1, copper tripeptide- 1, Saccharomyces peptides, hexapeptide- 1, and proteins preferably rice protein, soy protein, quinoa or wheat protein; further polysaccharides preferably hyaluronic acid or its pharmaceutically and cosmetically acceptable salt or derivative preferably sodium oleoyl hyaluronate, sodium retinoyl hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer-3; carboxymethyl glucan, schizophyllan, glucomannan; panthenol; urea; glycerin; plant extracts preferably aloe vera extract, cammomile extract, acai extract, green tea extract, algae extract, oat extract, cannabis extract, cranberry extract; extracts, ferment, ferment
  • the preservative is selected from the group comprising aromatic acids and derivatives thereof preferably benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid; potassium sorbate, parabens; alcohols preferably ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, phenethyl alcohol; imidazole derivatives preferably hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea; cationic surfactants preferably benzalkonium chloride.
  • aromatic acids and derivatives thereof preferably benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid; potassium sorbate, parabens
  • alcohols preferably ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, phenethyl alcohol
  • imidazole derivatives preferably hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea
  • cationic surfactants preferably benzalkonium chloride.
  • the amount of water in the composition according to the present invention in the form of cream or serum corresponds to the amount of water added up to 100 % (w/w) of the composition.
  • Cosmetically and pharmaceutically acceptable salts of hyaluronic acid are said to be those formed from acids which form non-toxic acid anions selected from a group comprising sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, zinc.
  • New is the hexapeptide of the general formula I according to the present invention and use thereof or use of the cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical topical compositions according to the invention containing said hexapeptide to improve oily and acne-prone skin condition and appearance. More specifically, the hexapeptide according to the invention inhibits epidermal keratinization, reduces sebum production by inhibition of a key enzyme 5 ⁇ -reductase, possesses an anti-inflammatory activity by inhibiting pro-inflammatory interleukins, has an antimicrobial effect towards Cutibacterium acnes, and reduces number of acne lesions in vivo. Furthermore, the said hexapeptide according to the present invention also has an anti-ageing effect by stimulating collagen synthesis and reducing wrinkles in vivo.
  • the said hexapeptide of the topical composition according to the invention is dedicated for oily and acne-prone skin as well as for normal skin.
  • hexapeptide of the general formula I according to the present invention and the topical composition according to the present invention are dedicated for use for treatment of the skin.
  • skin diseases selected from a group comprising acne, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, peeling skin disease, ichthyosis.
  • cosmetic treatment of the skin preferably for cosmetic treatment of the skin.
  • Fig. 1 Hexapeptide FWAHKK forms a complex with zinc. Spectrophotometric determination of the ability of zinc to form a complex with FWAHKK hexapeptide using dithizone as a free zinc indicator.
  • Fig. 2 Zinc penetrates more effectively into the cells when in Zn-FWAHKK complex.
  • HaCaT keratinocytes were incubated with Zn-FWAHKK or ZnSO 4 *7H 2 O (Zn) of corresponding concentration for 3 h. Intracellular zinc was visualized using fluorescence microscopy.
  • Fig. 3 Hexapeptide FWAHKK increases cell viability and prevents cytotoxic effect of zinc in Zn-FWAHKK complex.
  • NIH-3T3 fibroblasts were incubated with FWAHKK, Zn-FWAHKK or ZnSO4*7H 2 O (Zn) of corresponding concentrations for 48 h.
  • Cell viability was determined by MTT assay. * p ⁇ 0.05; ** p ⁇ 0.01; *** p0.001 in comparison to control if not stated otherwise
  • Fig. 4 Hexapeptide FWAHKK and ZnSO 4 *7H 2 O reduced 5 ⁇ -reductase gene expression in contrast to retinol. Zn-FWAHKK complex was even more effective than its individual components. HaCaT keratinocytes were treated with FWAHKK, Zn-FWAHKK, ZnSO4*7H 2 O (Zn) and retinol for 72 h. Relative gene expression of 5 ⁇ -reductase (gene SRD5A1) was determined by qRT-PCR. * pO.05; ** p ⁇ 0.01; *** p0.001 in comparison to the respective controls
  • Fig. 5 Hexapeptide FWAHKK and Zn-FWAHKK significantly reduced UVB-induced ILIA gene expression in contrast to zinc or retinol.
  • HaCaT keratinocytes were irradiated with 10 mJ/cm 2 UVB and treated with FWAHKK, Zn-FWAHKK, ZnSO 4 *7H 2 O (Zn) and retinol for 24 h.
  • Relative gene expression of IL-la was determined by qRT-PCR. *** p ⁇ 0.001 in comparison to the respective UVB controls
  • Fig. 6 Hexapeptide FWAHKK and Zn-FWAHKK reduced expression of genes associated with keratinocyte differentiation similarly to retinol whereas zinc had no such effect.
  • HaCaT keratinocytes were treated with FWAHKK, Zn-FWAHKK, ZnSO 4 *7H 2 O (Zn) and retinol for 72 h.
  • Relative gene expression of 5 ⁇ -reductase was determined by qRT-PCR. * p ⁇ 0.05; ** p0.01; *** p0.001 in comparison to the respective controls
  • Fig. 7 Hexapeptide FWAHKK and Zn-FWAHKK significantly reduced UVB-induced IL6 and IL8 gene expression in contrast to zinc or retinol.
  • HaCaT keratinocytes were irradiated with 10 mJ/cm 2 UVB and treated with FWAHKK, Zn-FWAHKK, ZnSO 4 *7H2O (Zn) and retinol for 24 h.
  • Relative gene expression of the pro-inflammatory interleukins IL-6 and IL-8 was determined by qRT-PCR. * p ⁇ 0.05; ** p ⁇ 0.01; *** p0.001 in comparison to the respective UVB controls
  • Fig. 8 Hexapeptide FWAHKK and zinc have an antimicrobial activity against C. acnes growing in suspension. Zn-FWAHKK has higher activity than individual compounds. C. acnes growing in suspension was cultivated with FWAHKK, Zn-FWAHKK and ZnSO4*7H 2 O (Zn) for 72 h. OD590 was then measured. * p ⁇ 0.05; ** p0.01; *** p0.001 in comparison to control if not stated otherwise
  • Fig. 9 Hexapeptide FWAHKK and Zn-FWAHKK stimulated collagen 1 gene expression in contrast to zinc or retinol.
  • HaCaT keratinocytes were treated with FWAHKK, Zn-FWAHKK, ZnSO4*7H 2 O (Zn), and retinol for 72 h.
  • Relative gene expression of 5 ⁇ -reductase was determined by qRT-PCR. * pO.05; ** p0.01; *** p0.001 in comparison to the respective controls Fig. 10.
  • Zn-FWAHKK complex has anti-acne and anti-ageing activity and is more effective than retinol.
  • FWAHKK peptide was synthetized by standard solid phase peptide synthesis using Fmoc/tBu strategy on Wang resin (Amblard et al. 2006).
  • the FWAHKK peptide was synthetized at 0.1 mmol scale using the CEM Liberty Blue automated micro wave peptide synthesizer (CEM, USA) on Wang resin preloaded with the first Fmoc-AA.
  • Fmoc deprotections were performed with 20% piperidine in DMF.
  • Coupling reactions were performed using 5 equivalents of Fmoc-AA/DIC/Oxyma Pure® in DMF.
  • V-terminus of the synthetized peptide FWAHKK on the resin was acetylated or palmitoylated using 2 meq of acetic or palmitic anhydride/pyridine (1/1, v/v) in DMF for 30 min at room temperature.
  • FWAHKK peptide The ability of FWAHKK peptide to form a complex with zinc was evaluated as described previously with slight modifications (Catapano etal. 2018). Briefly, 20 ⁇ L of solution of FWAHKK (0-600 ⁇ M (0-490 ⁇ g/mL; 0-0.049 w/w %), prepared as described in Example 1) and 60 ⁇ M (17.3 ⁇ g/mL; 0.00173 %) ZnSO 4 *7H 2 O in 15 mM HEPES, pH 6.8 was mixed with 20 ⁇ L of 250 ⁇ M dithizone in DMSO and 80 ⁇ L of 15 mM HEPES, pH 6.8. Dithizone was used as an indicator of free zinc. After 30 min incubation at room temperature (RT), the absorbance was measured at 520 nm and percentage of zinc in complex with FWAHKK peptide was calculated.
  • RT room temperature
  • Fig. 1 confirmed the ability of peptide FWAHKK to form a complex with zinc.
  • Zn-FWAHKK prepared as described in Example 1 in which the molar ratio of FWAHKK and zinc is 1 : 1 , approx. 50 % of zinc is in the complex with the hexapeptide.
  • HaCaT keratinocytes (CLS collection, Germany) were cultured in Dulbecco’s modified Eagle’s medium (DMEM) supplemented with 10 % fetal bovine serum, 0.3 mg/mL glutamine, lOO U/mL penicillin and 0.1 mg/mL streptomycin (all Sigma- Aldrich, USA) at 37 °C, in a humidified atmosphere with 5 % CO2.
  • DMEM Dulbecco’s modified Eagle’s medium
  • the cells seeded in appropriate density into 96- well plates were treated with 1352 ⁇ g/mL (0.1352 %) Zn-FWAHKK complex (prepared as described in Example 1) or ZnSO 4 *7H 2 O of corresponding concentration (352 ⁇ g/mL (0.0352 %)) for 3 h. Then, the cells were washed by the cell culture medium and incubated with 1 ⁇ M FluoZinTM-3 AM (Invitrogen, USA), a cell-permeant, Anorogenic Zn 2+ -selective indicator, and 20 ⁇ M Hoechst (Abeam, UK), a fluorescent DNA stain in the cell culture medium for 30 min at 37 °C in the dark. Then, the cells were washed in phosphate-buffered saline (PBS). The fluorescence was observed using an Eclipse 50i fluorescence microscope equipped with a DS-Fil camera (both Nikon, Japan).
  • NIH-3T3 mouse embryonic fibroblasts (ATCC collection, USA) were cultured in the same manner as HaCaT keratinocytes as described in Example 3.
  • the cells seeded in appropriate density into 96-well plates were treated with FWAHKK (2.5 - 80 ⁇ g/mL (0.00025 - 0.008 %)), Zn-FWAHKK (3.4 - 108 ⁇ g/mL (0.00034 - 0.0108 %)) (both prepared as described in Example 1) and ZnSO 4 *7H 2 O (0.9 - 28.2 ⁇ g/mL (0.00009 - 0.00282 %)) for 48 h. Then, cell viability was determined by MTT assay (Riss et al. 2016).
  • MTT 3-(4, 5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl-tetrazolium bromide
  • cell lysis and solubilization of formazan was carried out by incubation of the cells with a solubilizing solution (45 % isopropanol, 45 % DMSO, 10 % Triton-X, 0.3 M HC1) for 30 min at RT, shaking.
  • the absorbance was then measured at 570 run by a spectrophotometer (EnVision® 2105 Multimode Plate Reader, PerkinElmer, USA). T-test was used for the statistical evaluation of the results.
  • HaCaT keratinocytes (CLS collection, Germany) were cultured as described in Example 3.
  • the cells seeded in appropriate density into 6-well plates were treated with FWAHKK (1 ⁇ g/mL (0.0001 %) and 10 ⁇ g/mL (0.001 %)), Zn-FWAHKK (1.35 ⁇ g/mL (0.000135 %) and 13.5 ⁇ g/mL (0.00135 %)) (both prepared as described in Example 1), ZnSO 4 *7H 2 O (Zn, 0.35 ⁇ g/mL (0.000035 %) and 3.5 ⁇ g/mL (0.00035 %)), and 10 ⁇ M retinol (in DMSO, final concentration of DMSO was 0.1 %) for 72 h. Control cells were untreated or treated with 0.1 % DMSO in the case of retinol control.
  • 5 ⁇ -reductase gene expression was determined by quantitative, real-time, reverse-transcription PCR (qRT-PCR) as follows.
  • the total RNA was isolated from the cells by the acid guanidine thiocyanate-phenol extraction method using TRI Reagent (Sigma Aldrich, USA) according to the instructions provided by the supplier.
  • Reverse transcription was performed using High capacity cDNA reverse transcription kit (Thermo Fisher Scientific, MA, USA) in GenePro thermal cycler (Bioer Technology, China) according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
  • 5 ⁇ -reductase is a key enzyme involved in the androgens-induced sebum production.
  • the enzyme converts testosterone, the most common androgen, into DHT which is several times more potent in stimulation of sebum production.
  • the results (Fig. 4) showed that the hexapeptide FWAHKK, Zn-FWAHKK as well as ZnSO4*7H2O significantly reduced gene expression of 5 ⁇ -reductase (gene SRD5AP).
  • the complex Zn-FWAHKK was more effective than its individual components of corresponding concentrations.
  • retinol did not have any significant effect on 5 ⁇ -reductase gene expression.
  • HaCaT keratinocytes (CLS collection, Germany) were cultured as described in Example 3.
  • ILIA gene expression was determined by real-time qRT-PCR as described in Example 5 using specific TaqMan gene expression assays for ILIA (qHsaCIP0030471, BioRad, CA, USA), and RPL13A (Hs04194366_gl, Thermo Fisher Scientific, MA, USA) as a reference gene. The data were analyzed using the 2' ⁇ Ct method. The data were normalized to the UVB untreated controls or in the case of retinol to UVB DMSO controls. T-test was used for the statistical evaluation of the results.
  • IL-1 ⁇ is a pro-inflammatory interleukin stimulating hyperkeratinization of follicular keratinocytes (Guy and Kealey 1998) in the early phases of acne pathogenesis.
  • HaCaT keratinocytes (CLS collection, Germany) were cultured as described in Example 3.
  • the cells seeded in appropriate density into 6-well plates were treated with FWAHKK (1 ⁇ g/mL (0.0001 %) and 10 ⁇ g/mL (0.001 %), Zn-FWAHKK (1.35 ⁇ g/mL (0.000135 %) and 13.5 ⁇ g/mL (0.00135 %)) (both prepared as described in Example 1), ZnSO 4 *7H 2 O (Zn; 0.35 ⁇ g/mL (0.000035 %) and 3.5 ⁇ g/mL (0.00035 %)) and 10 ⁇ M retinol (in DMSO, final concentration of DMSO was 0.1 %) for 72 h. Control cells were untreated or treated with 0.1 % DMSO in the case of retinol control.
  • Expression of the selected genes involved in keratinocyte differentiation was determined by real-time qRT-PCR as described in Example 5 using specific TaqMan gene expression assays for FLG (Hs00856927_gl), OCLN (Hs00170162_ml), LCE2C (Hs02390636_sl), SPRR2E (qHsaCEP0055677, BioRad, CA, USA), KRT10 (Hs01043114_gl) and RPL13A (Hs04194366_gl) as a reference gene (all except SPRR2E Thermo Fisher Scientific, MA, USA).
  • the data were analyzed using the 2' ⁇ Ct method. The data were normalized to the untreated controls or in the case of retinol to DMSO controls. T-test was used for the statistical evaluation of the results.
  • hexapeptide FWAHKK as well as Zn-FWAHKK were shown to downregulate genes associated with keratinocyte differentiation in the same manner as 10 ⁇ M retinol whereas zinc of corresponding concentrations had no such effect (Fig. 6).
  • HaCaT keratinocytes (CLS collection, Germany) were cultured as described in Example 3.
  • IL1A gene expression was determined by real-time qRT-PCR as described in Example 5 using specific TaqMan gene expression assays for IL6 (Hs00174131 ml), IL8 (Hs00174103_ml), and RPL13A (Hs04194366_gl) as a reference gene (all Thermo Fisher Scientific, MA, USA). The data were analyzed using the 2 - ⁇ Ct method. The data were normalized to the UVB untreated controls or in the case of retinol to UVB DMSO controls. T- test was used for the statistical evaluation of the results.
  • Inflammation is a key event in acne pathogenesis.
  • We induced inflammatory processes such as the overexpression of the pro-inflammatory interleukins IL-6 and IL-8 in HaCaT keratinocytes using UVB irradiation (Fig. 7).
  • Cutibacterium acnes (strain DSM 1897, DSZM collection, Germany) was maintained in suspension in tryptic soy broth (TSB) at 37 °C. The bacteria were then inoculated in appropriate density into TSB containing FWAHKK (10 - 80 ⁇ g/mL (0.001 - 0.008 %)), Zn- FWAHKK (13.5 - 108.2 ⁇ g/mL (0.00135 - 0.01082 %)) (both prepared as described in Example 1) and ZnSO4*7H2O (Zn; 3.5 - 28.2 ⁇ g/mL (0.00035 - 0.00282 %)) in 96-well plates.
  • FWAHKK 10 - 80 ⁇ g/mL (0.001 - 0.008 %)
  • Zn- FWAHKK (13.5 - 108.2 ⁇ g/mL (0.00135 - 0.01082 %)
  • ZnSO4*7H2O Zn; 3.5 - 28.
  • the bacteria were cultivated for 72 h at 37 °C and then, optical density was measured at 590 nm (OD590) by a spectrophotometer (EnVision® 2105 Multimode Plate Reader, PerkinElmer, USA). T-test was used for the statistical evaluation of the results.
  • NIH-3T3 mouse embryonic fibroblasts (ATCC collection, USA) were cultured in the same manner as HaCaT keratinocytes as described in Example 3.
  • the cells seeded in appropriate density into 6-well plates were treated with FWAHKK (1 ⁇ g/mL (0.0001 %) and 10 ⁇ g/mL (0.001 %)), Zn-FWAHKK (1.35 ⁇ g/mL (0.000135 %) and 13.5 ⁇ g/mL (0.00135 %)) (both prepared as described in Example 1), ZnSO4*7H2O (Zn, 0.35 ⁇ g/mL (0.000035 %) and 3.5 ⁇ g/mL (0.00035 %)), and 10 ⁇ M retinol (in DMSO, final concentration of DMSO was 0.1 %) for 72 h. Control cells were untreated or treated with 0.1 % DMSO in the case of retinol control.
  • COL1A1 gene expression was determined by real-time qRT-PCR as described in Example 5 using specific TaqMan gene expression assays for COL1A1 (Mm00801666_gl), and RPL13A (Mm05910660_gl) as a reference gene (both Thermo Fisher Scientific, MA, USA). The data were analyzed using the 2 - ⁇ Ct method. The data were normalized to the untreated controls or in the case of retinol to DMSO controls. T-test was used for the statistical evaluation of the results.
  • Example 11 Zn-FWAHKK improves appearance of acne-prone skin and also has an anti- ageing effect in vivo
  • the measurements were performed after 30 min of acclimation of the volunteers in a room with controlled conditions (T: 20-22 °C; RH 40-45 %).
  • the number of acne lesions was determined by an image analysis of the whole-face images obtained by VisiaCR high-resolution camera (Canfield Scientific, USA). The quantification was performed using an Image-Pro 10 analysis software (Media Cybernetics, USA). Crow's feet wrinkle depth was determined by a Primos Lite 3D camera (Canfield Scientific, USA). The results showed an improvement of the appearance of the acne-prone skin represented by the reduced number of acne lesions (Fig. 10A). Zn-FWAHKK was also shown to possess an anti-ageing activity by reducing wrinkles (Fig 10B). In both cases, Zn-FWAHKK was more effective than 0.2 % retinol. Table 1. Compositions of the emulsions used in the in vivo study
  • Example 12 Compositions of the emulsions with FWAHKK, Zn-FWAHKK, acetyl- FWAHKK, or palmitoyl-FWAHKK
  • Oil and water phases were prepared and heated to 70 °C. Next, both phases were mixed and emulsified while stirring (290 rpm/min). Then, the emulsion was cooled to 40 °C and the water-soluble ingredient phase and/or oil-soluble active ingredient phase and/or vitamin E and preservative were added. Finally, pH was measured and adjusted to values between 5.2 and 6.5 with 1-50% citric acid or 1-50 % KOH or NaOH.
  • Example 13 Compositions of the serums with FWAHKK, Zn-FWAHKK and acetyl- FWAHKK
  • hexapeptide FWAHKK or Zn-FWAHKK or acetyl-FWAHKK and active ingredients except sodium hyaluronate and Crosslinked 114 were added to water and stirred till complete dissolution.
  • thickeners and/or sodium hyaluronate and Crosslinked 114 were added and mixed till complete dissolution. Then, a preservative was added.
  • pH was measured and adjusted to values between 5.2 and 6.5 with 1-50% citric acid or 1-50 % KOH or NaOH.

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