WO2022252433A1 - 一种经编结构空气层纹理面料及其制作方法 - Google Patents

一种经编结构空气层纹理面料及其制作方法 Download PDF

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WO2022252433A1
WO2022252433A1 PCT/CN2021/117583 CN2021117583W WO2022252433A1 WO 2022252433 A1 WO2022252433 A1 WO 2022252433A1 CN 2021117583 W CN2021117583 W CN 2021117583W WO 2022252433 A1 WO2022252433 A1 WO 2022252433A1
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Prior art keywords
layer
bar
warp
yarn
texture
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PCT/CN2021/117583
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
许金升
张英东
张高
林丽冰
刘恋
谢雪芳
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信泰(福建)科技有限公司
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Publication of WO2022252433A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022252433A1/zh

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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of textile fabrics, in particular to a warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric and a manufacturing method thereof.
  • the surface texture of the existing sandwich mesh fabric is single and fully covered, and the texture effect of the surface is obtained through the subsequent heat-pressing process.
  • the texture formed by heat-pressing not only makes the fabric poor in air permeability, but also makes the fabric easy to deform after heat-pressing
  • the single texture makes the whole fabric have single air permeability, poor touch, wear resistance and visual impact, which cannot meet the needs of the existing market.
  • the object of the present invention is to overcome the above-mentioned shortcomings, and provide a warp-knitted air layer textured fabric and a manufacturing method thereof.
  • the present invention provides a warp-knitted structure air layer texture fabric on the one hand
  • a textured fabric with a warp-knitted structure air layer including a fabric body, the fabric body includes a surface layer, a structural air layer and a bottom layer that are sequentially stacked from top to bottom, the structural air layer is woven with yarns with rigid support, and The surface of the facing layer forms a first texture based on the structured air layer.
  • a pattern layer is also included, the pattern layer is located between the surface layer and the structured air layer, and a second texture based on the pattern layer is formed on the surface of the surface layer.
  • the air structure layer includes several air structure structures, the shape of the air structure structure is adapted to the first texture, and the air structure structure is in the shape of rhombus, honeycomb, strip, intermittent, and letter Any one or several.
  • the second texture includes any one or more of mesh, thick plain and thin plain.
  • the yarns with rigid support are woven in the texture form of threading changes and combinations to form the structural air layer.
  • the surface layer, the pattern layer, the structural air layer and the bottom layer are woven together.
  • Another aspect of the present invention provides a method for making a warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric
  • a method for making a warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric comprising:
  • Bar setting step select a warp knitting machine with at least six bars for weaving
  • Yarn threading step thread each bar
  • Weaving step using at least one bar to lay yarn on the front needle bed to form the surface layer; using multiple bars to lay yarn on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed to form the structural air layer, the structural air layer and the surface
  • the layers cooperate to form a first texture; said bottom layer is formed by laying yarns behind a bed of needles with at least one of the bars.
  • the weaving step further includes: using at least one bar to lay yarn on the front needle bed to form the pattern layer; the pattern layer cooperates with the surface layer to form the second texture.
  • each comb bar comprises a ground comb bar or a combination of a ground comb bar and a jacquard bar, wherein the jacquard bar is a separate jacquard bar.
  • the yarn is conveyed by a let-off system
  • the let-off system includes a creel negative let-off mechanism for controlling yarn tension, and a pan head positive let-off mechanism for increasing the yarn feeding speed.
  • the warp let-off mechanism and the multi-speed warp let-off mechanism for adjusting the yarn feeding speed; the negative creel let-off mechanism, the pan head active warp let-off mechanism and the multi-speed warp let-off mechanism are arranged in sequence according to the yarn conveying direction.
  • the beneficial effect of the present invention is:
  • An air structure layer is woven with rigidly supported yarns between the surface layer and the bottom layer.
  • the cooperation between the air structure layer and the surface layer makes the first texture formed on the surface layer.
  • the shape and air permeability of the entire fabric will not be affected.
  • the combination of the first texture and the air structure layer improves the air permeability, shape retention and wear resistance of the entire fabric, while the visual impact is strong and the fabric feels comfortable.
  • a pattern layer is woven between the surface layer and the air structure layer.
  • the pattern layer cooperates with the surface layer to form a second texture on the surface of the surface layer.
  • the second texture is superimposed on the first texture.
  • the second texture and the first texture The shape of the texture is different, so that the superimposed combination of different textures is formed on the surface of the surface layer.
  • the structure of different textures makes the air permeability of the fabric change with the change of the texture, so that the entire fabric can improve the air permeability. presents different air permeability.
  • Fig. 1 is the structural schematic diagram of warp-knitted structure air layer texture fabric of embodiment 1 of the present invention
  • Fig. 2 is the structural schematic diagram of the warp-knitted structure air layer texture fabric of embodiment 2 of the present invention
  • Fig. 3 is the partial tissue diagram of warp-knitted structure air layer texture fabric of embodiment 2 of the present invention.
  • Fig. 4 is the partial tissue diagram of warp-knitted structure air layer texture fabric of embodiment 3 of the present invention.
  • Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view of the fabric body of Embodiment 1, Embodiment 4, and Embodiment 5 of the present invention
  • Fig. 6 is a cross-sectional view of the fabric body of Embodiment 2 and Embodiment 3 of the present invention.
  • Fig. 7 is a schematic structural view of the warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric in Example 4 of the present invention.
  • Fig. 8 is a schematic structural view of the warp-knitted structure air layer texture fabric in Example 5 of the present invention.
  • Fig. 9 is a partial weave diagram of warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric according to Embodiment 6 of the present invention.
  • a warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric includes a fabric body, the fabric body includes a surface layer 1, a structural air layer and a bottom layer 2 that are sequentially stacked from top to bottom, and the structural air layer adopts yarn with rigid support
  • the thread is woven in the texture form of threading changes and combinations, and the first texture based on the structural air layer is formed on the surface of the surface layer 1; the first texture presented by the fabric effect has an intuitive visual impact and touch, and the style is more It is novel and has the characteristics of good air permeability, shape retention, wear resistance and comfortable hand feeling.
  • the air structure layer 3 includes several air structure structures 8, the shape of the air structure structure 8 is adapted to the first texture, and
  • the air structure 8 is any one or several of rhombus, honeycomb, elongated, intermittent, letter-shaped, but not limited to the above-mentioned several, referring to Figure 5, it also includes a pattern layer 4, the surface layer 1.
  • the pattern layer 4, the structural air layer and the bottom layer 2 are integrally woven.
  • the yarn materials of the surface layer 1, the pattern layer 4, and the bottom layer 2 are not limited.
  • the pattern layer 4 is located between the surface layer 1 and the structural air layer.
  • the second texture based on the pattern layer 4 is formed on the surface of the surface layer 1;
  • the second texture includes any one or several of the mesh 5, thick plain weave and thin plain weave, but not limited to the above-mentioned several, the first
  • the second texture is superimposed on the first texture, and the texture shapes of the second texture and the first texture are different, so that a superimposed combination of different textures is formed on the surface of the surface layer 1, and the structure of different textures makes the air permeability of the fabric. It also changes with the change of the texture, so that the whole fabric presents different breathability while improving the breathability.
  • a method for making a warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric comprising:
  • Bar setting step select a warp knitting machine with at least six bars for weaving
  • Yarn threading step thread each bar
  • Weaving step use at least one bar to lay yarn on the front needle bed to form the surface layer 1; use multiple bars to lay yarn on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed to form the structural air layer, and the structural air layer and The surface layer 1 cooperates to form the first texture; utilize at least one of the combs to form the bottom layer 2 on the back needle bed yarn; utilize at least one of the comb bars to form the pattern layer 4 on the front needle bed yarn; the pattern The layer 4 cooperates with the surface layer 1 to form the second texture; each bar includes a ground bar or a combination of a ground bar and a Jacquard bar, wherein the Jacquard bar is a separate Jacquard bar.
  • the let-off system includes a creel negative let-off mechanism for controlling yarn tension, and a Yarn speed pan head positive warp let-off mechanism and multi-speed warp let-off mechanism for yarn feeding speed adjustment; the creel negative warp let-off mechanism, pan head positive warp let-off mechanism and multi-speed warp let-off
  • the directions are arranged in sequence, and the negative let-off part of the creel can accurately control the tension of each yarn, which makes the tension adjustment machine of the jacquard comb more flexible and helps to enrich the jacquard effect of the jacquard bar;
  • the type let-off part can achieve higher speed and improve production efficiency; it is convenient and fast to change the let-off amount without changing the let-off changing gear.
  • the multi-speed let-off part can realize two different let-off speeds, that is, each warp beam can switch between two different let-off speeds according to the setting.
  • the multi-speed let-off system can also be used to switch between different let-off speeds, and the superposition of patterns and the effect of air layer patterns can be controlled arbitrarily.
  • this embodiment provides a method for making a warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric
  • the warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric in this embodiment includes layers that are sequentially stacked from top to bottom and integrally woven.
  • the ground bar GB1 is threaded in a full thread;
  • the Jacquard bar JB2 and the Jacquard bar JB3 are threaded in the way of 1 thread and 1 empty, that is, after each yarn is threaded Empty one position and continue threading the yarn;
  • the ground bar GB4 and the ground bar GB5 are threaded in the way of 2 threads and 10 spaces, that is, vacant 10 positions after each threading of 2 yarns and then continue the cycle Yarn threading;
  • the ground bar GB6 and the ground bar GB7 are all threaded in the way of full threading;
  • ground comb GB1 warping P-DTY150D/48F CD glossy white low-elastic light net 6 pan heads each with 496 yarns, gear let-off amount 1650mm/lack, ground comb bar GB1 warp knitting basic structure 1-0/0-0/0-1/1-1//, yarn content accounts for about 21.592%
  • Jacquard bar JB2 Warping P-DTY150D/48F CD bright white low 6 pan heads, 248 yarns per pan, gear let-off 2300mm/rac, Jacquard bar JB2 Jacquard basic weave 1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1/ /, the yarn content accounts for about 15.3%
  • Jacquard bar JB3 warping P-DTY150D/48F CD glossy white low-elastic light net 6 pan heads each with 248 yarns, gear let-off amount 2300mm/wax Gram, Jacquard bar JB3 Jacquard basic structure 1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//, the yarn content accounts for about
  • the present embodiment provides a method for making a warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric, and the warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric in this embodiment includes sequentially layered and integrally woven Formed top layer 1, structural air layer and bottom layer 2.
  • the ground bar GB1 and the ground bar GB2 are threaded in a full way; the ground bar GB3 and the ground bar GB4 are threaded in a way of 4 threads and 12 empty, that is After every 4 yarns are worn, 12 positions are vacated, and then the threading is continued; the ground bar GB5 is threaded in the way of 4 threads and 4 empty, that is, 4 positions are vacated after every 4 yarns, and then the cycle is continued.
  • the ground bar GB6 and the ground bar GB7 are all threaded in a full thread;
  • ground bar GB1 warping P-FTY100D/48F semi-gloss 6 pan heads, each pan head 476 yarns, gear let-off amount 1750mm/lact, ground bar GB1 warp knitting basic structure 0-1/2-1//, the yarn content accounts for about 18.373%
  • ground bar GB2 warping P-FTY100D/48F semi-gloss 6 pan heads, each pan head 476 yarns, gear let-off amount 2250mm / Lak, ground bar GB2 warp knitting basic structure 3-2/0-1//, the yarn content accounts for about 23.622%
  • ground bar GB3 warping P-DT0.08/1F glossy ( 64D/1F) 6 pan heads, 119 yarns in each pan head, gear let-off amount 6400mm/duck, ground bar GB3 warp knitting variable warp and oblique weave (4-5/5-4)*12/( 1-0/0-1)*6/(4-5/5-4)*6//, the yarn content accounts for about 6.719%;
  • this embodiment provides a method for making a warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric
  • the warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric in this embodiment includes layers that are sequentially stacked from top to bottom and integrally woven.
  • Layer 1 structural air layer and bottom layer 2.
  • the ground bar GB1 and the ground bar GB2 are threaded in a full way; the ground bar GB3 and the ground bar GB4 are threaded in a way of 4 threads and 12 empty, that is After every 4 yarns are worn, 12 positions are vacated, and then the threading is continued; the ground bar GB5 is threaded in the way of 4 threads and 4 empty, that is, 4 positions are vacated after every 4 yarns, and then the cycle is continued.
  • the ground bar GB6 and the ground bar GB7 are all threaded in the way of full threading;
  • Ground bar GB1 Warping P-FTY100D/48F semi-gloss environmental protection yarn (recycle) 6 pan heads, each pan head 476 yarns, gear let-off amount 1750mm/lact, ground bar GB1 warp knitting basic Weave 0-1/2-1//, yarn content accounts for about 18.373%; ground bar GB2: warping P-FTY100D/48F semi-gloss 6 pan heads, each pan head 476 yarns, gear let-off 2250mm/rack, ground bar GB2 warp knitting basic structure 3-2/0-1//, yarn content accounts for about 23.622%; ground bar GB3: warping P-DT0.08/1F glossy (64D/1F) 6 pan heads each with 119 yarns, the warp let-off of the gear is 6400mm/lact, and the ground bar GB3 warp knitting basic structure (1-1/1-0/0-0/0 -1)*6/(1-0/0-1)*6/(1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1)*3//, the yarn content accounts for about
  • this embodiment provides a method for making a warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric
  • the warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric in this embodiment includes layers that are sequentially stacked from top to bottom and integrally woven.
  • Layer 1 pattern layer 4, structured air layer and bottom layer 2.
  • the ground bar GB1 is threaded in the way of 4 threads and 4 empty, that is, 4 positions are vacated after every 4 yarns are threaded, and then the threading is continued;
  • the ground bar GB2 is threaded in a full way Yarn threading;
  • Jacquard bar JB3 and Jacquard bar JB4 are threaded in the way of 1 thread and 1 empty, that is, after each yarn is threaded, one position is vacated and then the threading is continued;
  • the ground bar GB5 carries out yarn threading in the way of 4 threads and 4 holes, that is, after every threading of 4 yarns, 4 positions are vacated and then the yarn threading is continued;
  • ground comb GB1 warping P-DTY150D/48F CD glossy white low-elastic light net with 6 pan heads each with 248 yarns, gear let-off 550mm/lack, ground comb GB1 warp knitting missing cushion (0-0/0-0/1-1/1-1)*4(0-0/0-0/2-2/2-2)*4//, yarn The content accounts for about 2.485%; ground bar GB2: warping P-DTY150D/48F semi-gloss environmental protection low-elastic light net (recycle) 6 pan heads each with 248 yarns, gear let-off amount 1650mm/lack, Ground bar GB2 warp knitting basic structure 0-1/0-0/1-0/1-1//, yarn content accounts for about 20.540%; Jacquard bar JB3: Warping P-DTY150D/48F half Light environmental protection, low elasticity and light net (recycle) 6 pan heads, each pan head 248 yarns, gear let-off amount 2250mm/lact, Jacquard bar J
  • this embodiment provides a method for making a warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric, and the warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric in this embodiment includes sequentially layered and integrally woven surfaces Layer 1, pattern layer 4, structured air layer and bottom layer 2.
  • the ground bar GB11 and the ground bar GB2 are threaded in the way of 2 threads and 2 empty, that is, after every 2 threads are threaded, 2 positions are vacated and then the threading is continued;
  • the Jacquard bar JB3, Jacquard bar JB4, Jacquard bar JB5, and Jacquard bar JB6 are all threaded in the way of 1 thread and 1 empty, that is, one position is vacated after each thread is threaded, and then the threading is continued;
  • the ground bar GB7 is threaded in the way of 4 threads and 4 empty, that is, 4 positions are vacated after every 4 yarns are threaded, and then the threading is continued;
  • the ground bar GB8 is threaded in a full thread;
  • Ground bar GB1 Warping P-FDY150D/96F CD with 6 glossy pan heads, 256 yarns per pan head, gear let-off 1980mm/lact, ground bar GB1 warp warp knitting Oblique organization 1-0/1-1/2-3/2-2/3-2/3-3/4-5/2-2/3-2/1-1/2-3/2-2/ /, the yarn content accounts for about 11.664%;
  • ground bar GB2 warping P-FDY150D/96F CD glossy 6 pan heads each with 256 yarns, gear let-off amount 1980mm/lack, ground comb Comb GB2 warp knitting warp oblique weave 4-5/2-2/3-2/1-1/2-3/2-2/1-0/1-1/2-3/2-2/3- 2/3-3//, the yarn content accounts for about 11.664%;
  • Jacquard bar JB3 Warping P-DTY150D/48F semi-gloss environmental protection low elastic light net (recycle), creel 1536 heels, gear let-off 2200mm/lack, Jacquard bar JB
  • Jacquard bar JB5 Jacquard bar JB5, Jacquard bar JB6, free to design according to the regional effect and texture effect requirements, form the structure air layer texture on the front needle bed and/or rear needle bed yarn, and comb the ground Bar 7 forms the structural air layer on the front needle bed and the back needle bed yarn;
  • the ground bar GB7 walks through the pile tissue 1-0/0-1// on the face, and walks through the pile texture 1-0/0 on the bottom -1//;
  • the fixed weave direction of the fabric presents a longitudinal discontinuous style of structured air layer texture;
  • the fabric presents a double-layered effect of regular air layers and arbitrary textured air layers.
  • the ground bar GB8 forms the bottom layer 2 on the back needle bed yarn, and the ground bar GB8 walks the heavy warp structure 0-2/3-1// at the bottom.
  • the jacquard bar uses yarn The rest of the combs use the positive let-off of the pan head.
  • the negative warp let-off of the creel the advantages: the tension of each yarn can be precisely controlled, which makes the tension adjustment machine of the jacquard comb more flexible and helps to enrich the jacquard effect of the jacquard bar.
  • the tension control of the jacquard comb is uniformly supplied by the warp beam, which means that the tension of the jacquard bar is limited, and the jacquard effect becomes too limited, which is not conducive to the innovation of jacquard products;
  • Head-positive warp let-off through the warp beams at the front and back of the Jacquard warp knitting machine, the yarn is uniformly fed. Advantages: It can achieve higher speed and improve production efficiency; it is convenient and fast to change the let-off amount, and there is no need to replace the let-off conversion gear; when changing the warp beam, it is not necessary to manually rotate the warp beam, just simply press the button.
  • this embodiment provides a method for making a warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric
  • the warp-knitted structure air layer textured fabric in this embodiment includes layers that are sequentially layered from top to bottom and integrally woven.
  • Layer 1 structural air layer 3 and bottom layer 2.
  • the ground bar GB1 and the ground bar GB2 are all threaded in the way of full threading; the ground bar GB3 and the ground bar GB4 are all threaded in the way of 8 threads and 16 holes, that is After every 8 yarns are worn, 16 positions are vacated, and then the threading is continued; the ground bar GB5 and the ground bar GB6 are all threaded in a full threading manner;
  • Ground bar GB1 Warping P-FTY100D/48F semi-glossy environmental protection yarn (recycle) 6 pan heads, each pan head 476 yarns, gear let-off amount 2950mm/lact, ground bar GB1 warp knitting basic Weave 3-4/1-0//, yarn content accounts for about 23.667%;
  • Ground bar GB2 Warping P-FTY100D/48F semi-gloss environmental protection yarn (recycle) 6 pan heads, each pan head 476 yarns, gear let-off amount 1850mm/lact, ground bar GB2 warp knitting basic Weave 1-0/1-2//, the yarn content accounts for about 14.842%;
  • Combing bar GB3 Warping P-DT0.08/1F glossy (64D/1F) 6 pan heads, each pan head 159 yarns, gear let-off amount 6700mm/lact, ground comb GB3 warp knitting Basic organization (1-0/0-1)/(1-2/2-1)/(5-6/6-5)/(9-10/10-9)/(13-14/14-13 )/(14-15/15-14)/(13-12/12-13)/(11-10/10-11)/(9-8/8-9)/(7-6/6-7 )/(5-4/4-5)/(3-2/2-3)//, the yarn content accounts for about 11.491%;
  • Ground bar GB4 warping P-DT0.08/1F glossy (64D/1F) 6 pan heads, each pan head 159 yarns, gear let-off amount 6700mm/lact, ground bar GB4 warp Ed basic organization (13-12/12-13)/(11-10/10-11)/(9-8/8-9)/(7-6/6-7)/(5-4/4- 5)/(3-2/2-3)/(1-0/0-1)/(1-2/2-1)/(5-6/6-5)/(9-10/10- 9)/(13-14/14-13)/(14-15/15-14)//, the yarn content accounts for about 11.491%;
  • Ground bar GB5 Warping P-FDY100D/36F CD glossy 6 pan heads, each pan head 476 yarns, gear let-off amount 1850mm/lact, ground bar GB6 warp knitting basic structure 1-0 /1-2//, the yarn content accounts for about 14.842%;
  • Ground bar GB6 warping P-FDY100D/36F CD glossy 6 pan heads, each pan head 476 yarns, gear let-off amount 2950mm/lact, ground bar GB7 warp knitting basic structure 3-4 /1-0//, the yarn content accounts for about 23.667%;
  • the ground bar GB1 and the ground bar GB2 lay yarn on the front needle bed to form the surface layer 1, the ground bar GB1 travels through the oblique tissue 3-4/1-0// on the face, and the ground bar GB2 Go through the flat tissue 1-0/1-2// on the face to provide a plan for the fabric to fix the tissue direction;
  • the ground bar GB3, the ground bar GB4, and the ground bar GB5 are on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed Laying yarn forms the air layer 3 of the structure;
  • the ground bar GB3 goes through the warp knitting on the face and changes the warp forging structure 1-0/1-2/5-6/9-10/13-14/14-15/13- 12/11-10/9-8/7-6/5-4/3-2///, the bottom walk changes through forging structure 0-1/2-1/6-5/10-9/14-13/ 15-14/12-13/10-11/8-9/6-7/4-5/2-3//;
  • the ground comb GB4 goes through the warp knitting on the face and changes the warp forging structure 13-12
  • the fabric in this embodiment rationally utilizes the structure of the fabric and the characteristics of the yarn to form a three-dimensional effect of the warp-knitting characteristic spray relief style, reduce the manufacturing cost of the subsequent process and improve the breathability of the hot-press embroidery fabric Single property, poor touch, wear resistance and visual impact.
  • Air structure layer 3 Use the air structure layer 3 to jacquard and move the double needle bed to change the forged structure.
  • the characteristics of the pulling force are used to make the air layer of the mesh cloth and the tension of the bottom layer shrink inconsistently to form on the surface layer. 1.
  • the bottom layer 2 naturally shrinks to form a wave-shaped concave-convex pattern. While maintaining the special air layer of the sandwich, it also has the wave-shaped concave-convex effect of the hot-press embroidery process, reducing weaving and forming a three-dimensional air layer with warp knitting characteristics.
  • Sandwich mesh Use the air structure layer 3 to jacquard and move the double needle bed to change the forged structure. In the actual weaving, the characteristics of the pulling force are used to make the air layer of the mesh cloth and the tension of the bottom layer shrink inconsistently to form on the surface layer. 1.
  • the bottom layer 2 naturally shrinks to form a wave-shaped concave-convex pattern. While maintaining the special air layer of the sandwich, it also has the wave-shaped conca
  • the fabric in this embodiment makes reasonable use of the weave structure and the characteristics of the yarn to form a three-dimensional effect with a warp-knitted spray relief style, which effectively solves the difficulty of setting the dyeing factory, reduces manufacturing costs and improves the traditional process.
  • Common problems such as poor color fastness improve the quality of mesh.
  • Air structure layer 3 Use the air structure layer 3 to change the forged structure by using the jacquard double needle bed. In the actual weaving, the characteristics of the pulling force are used to make the air layer of the mesh fabric shrink inconsistently with the bottom layer of the surface to form a wave-shaped concave-convex pattern.
  • the sandwich air layer is special and also has the spray concave-convex effect of the hot-press embroidery process, which reduces the weaving and forms an air layer sandwich mesh with a relief-style three-dimensional effect with warp knitting characteristics.

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Abstract

公开了一种经编结构空气层纹理面料及其制作方法。该面料包括面料本体,该面料本体包括自上而下依次层叠的面层(1)、结构空气层(3)以及底层(2),该结构空气层(3)采用具有刚性支撑的纱线进行织造,且在面层表面形成以结构空气层(3)为基底的第一纹理;还包括花纹层(4),该花纹层(4)位于面层(1)与结构空气层(3)之间,且在面层(1)表面形成以花纹层(4)为基底的第二纹理。在面层与底层之间采用刚性支撑的纱线织造有空气结构层,空气结构层与面层之间的配合,使得在面层表面形成第一纹理,相对于热压形成的纹理,不会影响整个面料的形状和透气性,第一纹理与空气结构层的结合,提高了整个面料的透气性、保型性以及耐磨性,同时视觉冲击强以及面料触感舒适。

Description

一种经编结构空气层纹理面料及其制作方法 技术领域
本发明涉及纺织面料领域,具体指的是一种经编结构空气层纹理面料及其制作方法。
背景技术
现有三明治网布面料表面的纹理单一且呈全面铺满状态,且表面的纹理效果通过后道的热压工序获得,热压形成的纹理不仅使得面料的透气性差,而且热压后面料容易变形,同时纹理的单一,使得整块面料的透气性单一、触感、耐磨性以及视觉冲击较差,无法满足现有市场的需求。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服上述不足,提供一种经编结构空气层纹理面料及其制作方法。
[本发明一方面提供一种经编结构空气层纹理面料]
一种经编结构空气层纹理面料,包括面料本体,该面料本体包括自上而下依次层叠的面层、结构空气层以及底层,该结构空气层采用具有刚性支撑的纱线进行织造,且在面层表面形成以结构空气层为基底的第一纹理。
优选的,还包括花纹层,该花纹层位于面层与结构空气层之间,且在面层表面形成以花纹层为基底的第二纹理。
优选的,该空气结构层包括若干个空气结构组织,该空气结构组织的形状与第一纹理相适配,且该空气结构组织呈菱形、蜂窝状、长条形、间断型、字母形中的任意一种或几种。
优选的,该第二纹理包括网孔、厚平纹以及薄平纹中的任意一种或几种。
优选的,具有刚性支撑的纱线采用穿纱变化组合的纹理形式进行织造形成结构空气层。
优选的,该面层、花纹层、结构空气层以及底层为一体编织而成。
[本发明另一方面提供一种经编结构空气层纹理面料的制作方法]
一种经编结构空气层纹理面料的制作方法,该方法包括:
梳栉设置步骤:选用具有至少六把梳栉的经编机进行编织;
穿纱步骤:对各梳栉进行穿纱;
编织步骤:利用其中至少一把梳栉在前针床上垫纱形成所述面层;利用其中多把梳栉在前针床和后针床垫纱形成所述结构空气层,结构空气层与面层配合形成第一纹理;利用其中至少一把梳栉在后针床垫纱形成所述底层。
优选的,编织步骤中还包括:利用其中至少一把梳栉在前针床垫纱形成所述花纹层;该花纹层与面层配合形成第二纹理。
优选的,各梳栉包括地梳梳栉或地梳梳栉与贾卡梳栉组合,其中贾卡梳栉为分离式贾卡 梳栉。
优选的,穿纱步骤中,纱线输送采用送经系系统进行输送,该送经系统包括用于控制纱线张力的纱架消极式送经机构、用于提高送纱速度的盘头积极式送经机构以及用于送纱速度调节的多速送经机构;该纱架消极式送经机构、盘头积极式送经机构以及多速送经机构按照纱线输送方向依次排列。
通过采用上述的技术方案,本发明的有益效果是:
1、在面层与底层之间采用刚性支撑的纱线织造有空气结构层,空气结构层与面层之间的配合,使得在面层表面形成第一纹理,相对于热压形成的纹理,不会影响整个面料的形状和透气性,第一纹理与空气结构层的结合,提高了整个面料的透气性、保型性以及耐磨性,同时视觉冲击强以及面料触感舒适。
2、在面层与空气结构层之间编织有花纹层,花纹层与面层配合在面层表面形成第二纹理,第二纹理与第一纹理相叠加,同时第二纹理和第一纹理的纹理形状均不一,使得共同在面层表面形成不同纹理的叠加组合,不同纹理的结构,使得面料的透气导流性能也随着纹理的变化而变化,使得整个面料在提高透气性的情况下呈现不同的透气性。
附图说明
为了更清楚地说明本发明实施例或现有技术中的技术方案,下面将对实施例或现有技术描述中所需要使用的附图作简单的介绍,显而易见地,下面描述中的附图仅仅是本发明的一个或数个实施例,对于本领域普通技术人员来讲,在不付出创造性劳动的前提下,还可以根据此类附图获得其他的附图。
图1为本发明实施例1经编结构空气层纹理面料的结构示意图;
图2为本发明实施例2经编结构空气层纹理面料的结构示意图;
图3为本发明实施例2经编结构空气层纹理面料局部组织图;
图4为本发明实施例3经编结构空气层纹理面料局部组织图;
图5为本发明实施例1、实施例4、实施例5面料本体的截面图;
图6为本发明实施例2、实施例3面料本体的截面图;
图7为本发明实施例4经编结构空气层纹理面料的结构示意图;
图8为本发明实施例5经编结构空气层纹理面料的结构示意图;
图9为本发明实施例6经编结构空气层纹理面料局部组织图。
主要附图标记说明:1面层,2底层,3空气结构层,4花纹层,5网孔,6厚平纹区,7薄平纹区,8空气结构组织。
具体实施方式
以下将结合附图及实施例来详细说明本发明的实施方式,借此对本发明如何应用技术手段来解决技术问题,并达成技术效果的实现过程能充分理解并据以实施。需要说明的是,只要不构成冲突,本发明中的各个实施例以及各实施例中的各个特征可以相互结合,所形成的技术方案均在本发明的保护范围之内。
同时,在以下说明中,处于解释的目的而阐述了许多具体细节,以提供对本发明实施例的彻底理解。然而,对本领域的技术人员来说显而易见的是,本发明可以不用这里的具体细节或者所描述的特定方式来实施。
[根据本发明提供的一种经编结构空气层纹理面料]
一种经编结构空气层纹理面料,参照图6,包括面料本体,该面料本体包括自上而下依次层叠的面层1、结构空气层以及底层2,该结构空气层采用具有刚性支撑的纱线并采用穿纱变化组合的纹理形式进行织造,且在面层1表面形成以结构空气层为基底的第一纹理;面料效果所呈现的第一纹理,有直观的视觉冲击以及触感,风格更具新颖,具有良好的透气性、保型性、耐磨以及手感舒适等特点,该空气结构层3包括若干个空气结构组织8,该空气结构组织8的形状与第一纹理相适配,且该空气结构组织8呈菱形、蜂窝状、长条形、间断型、字母形中的任意一种或几种,但不局限于上述几种,参照图5,还包括花纹层4,该面层1、花纹层4、结构空气层以及底层2为一体编织而成,面层1、花纹层4、底层2纱线材料不受限制,该花纹层4位于面层1与结构空气层之间,且在面层1表面形成以花纹层4为基底的第二纹理;该第二纹理包括网孔5、厚平纹以及薄平纹中的任意一种或几种,但不局限于上述几种,第二纹理与第一纹理相叠加,同时第二纹理和第一纹理的纹理形状均不一,使得共同在面层1表面形成不同纹理的叠加组合,不同纹理的结构,使得面料的透气导流性能也随着纹理的变化而变化,使得整个面料在提高透气性的情况下呈现不同的透气性。
[根据本发明提供的一种经编结构空气层纹理面料的制作方法]
一种经编结构空气层纹理面料的制作方法,该方法包括:
梳栉设置步骤:选用具有至少六把梳栉的经编机进行编织;
穿纱步骤:对各梳栉进行穿纱;
编织步骤:利用其中至少一把梳栉在前针床上垫纱形成所述面层1;利用其中多把梳栉在前针床和后针床垫纱形成所述结构空气层,结构空气层与面层1配合形成第一纹理;利用其中至少一把梳栉在后针床垫纱形成所述底层2;利用其中至少一把梳栉在前针床垫纱形成所述花纹层4;该花纹层4与面层1配合形成第二纹理;各梳栉包括地梳梳栉或地梳梳栉与贾卡梳栉组合,其中贾卡梳栉为分离式贾卡梳栉。
穿纱步骤中,合理运用经编独特的送经系统,纱线输送采用送经系系统进行输送,该送 经系统包括用于控制纱线张力的纱架消极式送经机构、用于提高送纱速度的盘头积极式送经机构以及用于送纱速度调节的多速送经机构;该纱架消极式送经机构、盘头积极式送经机构以及多速送经机构按照纱线输送方向依次排列,纱架消极式送经部分可以精确掌控到每一根纱线的张力,使得贾卡梳的张力调机更佳灵活,有助于丰富贾卡梳栉的提花效果;盘头积极式送经部分能实现更高的车速,提高了生产效率;更改送经量方便、迅速、无需更换送经变换齿轮。多速送经部分,能实现两种不同的送经速度,即每一经轴可以根据设定,在两种不同的送经速度中转换。也可运用多速送经系统,在多种不同的送经速度中转换,可任意控制花纹的叠加以及空气层纹路效果。
实施例1
参照图1、图5,本实施例提供一种经编结构空气层纹理织物的制作方法,且本实施例中的经编结构空气层纹理织物包括从上至下依次层叠且一体编织成型的面层1、花纹层4、结构空气层和底层2。
S1.梳栉设置:双针床贾卡经编机进行编织,具有7把梳栉,7把梳栉从前针床至后针床依次设为地梳梳栉GB1、贾卡梳栉JB2、贾卡梳栉JB3、地梳梳栉GB4、地梳梳栉GB5、地梳梳栉GB6、地梳梳栉GB7;
S2.穿纱:地梳梳栉GB1以满穿的方式进行穿纱;贾卡梳栉JB2、贾卡梳栉JB3均以1穿1空的方式进行穿纱,即每穿1根纱线后空出1个位置再继续循环穿纱;地梳梳栉GB4、地梳梳栉GB5均以2穿10空的方式进行穿纱,即每穿2根纱线后空出10个位置再继续循环穿纱;地梳梳栉GB6、地梳梳栉GB7均以满穿的方式进行穿纱;
S3.编织:地梳梳栉GB1:整经P-DTY150D/48F CD有光白低弹轻网6个盘头每个盘头496根纱,齿轮送经量1650mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB1走经编基本组织1-0/0-0/0-1/1-1//,纱线含量占21.592%左右;贾卡梳栉JB2:整经P-DTY150D/48F CD有光白低弹轻网6个盘头每个盘头248根纱,齿轮送经量2300mm/腊克,贾卡梳栉JB2走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,纱线含量占15.3%左右;贾卡梳栉JB3:整经P-DTY150D/48F CD有光白低弹轻网6个盘头每个盘头248根纱,齿轮送经量2300mm/腊克,贾卡梳栉JB3走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,纱线含量占15.3%左右;地梳梳栉GB4:整经P-DT0.08/1F有光(64D/1F)6个盘头每个盘头83根纱,齿轮送经量6300mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB4走经编变化经段组织1-0/0-1/1-2/2-1/2-3/3-2/3-4/4-3/4-5/5-4/5-6/6-5/6-7/7-6/6-5/5-6/5-4/4-5/4-3/3-4/3-2/2-3/2-1/1-2//,纱线含量占5.984%左右;地梳梳栉GB5:整经P-DT0.08/1F有光(64D/1F)6个盘头每个盘头83根纱,齿轮送经量6300mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB5走经编变化经6-7/7-6/6-5/5-6/5-4/4-5/4-3/3-4/3-2/2-3/2-1/1-2/1-0/0-1/1-2/2-1/2-3/3-2/3-4/4-3/ 4-5/5-4/5-6/6-5//,纱线含量占5.984%左右;地梳梳栉GB6:整经P-FDY100D/36F半光6个盘头每个盘头496根纱,齿轮送经量1750mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB1走经编基本组织1-1/1-0/1-1/1-2//,纱线含量占15.522%左右;地梳梳栉GB7:整经P-FDY100D/36F半光6个盘头每个盘头496根纱,齿轮送经量2250mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB1走经编基本组织1-1/2-3/2-2/1-0//,纱线含量占19.957%左右;地梳梳栉GB1在前针床上垫纱形成所述面层1,在面部走编链组织1-0/0-1//,为该提供方案织物固定组织走向;贾卡梳栉JB2走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,在前针床垫纱形成所述花纹层4,结合偏移信号在面部走编链组织2-1/1-2//、经平组织1-0/1-2//、经绒组织1-0/2-3//,与面层1配合编织形成鞋面的网孔5、薄平纹区7、厚平纹区6的花纹效果;贾卡梳栉JB3走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,在前针床垫纱形成所述花纹层4,结合偏移信号在面部走编链组织2-1/1-2//、经平组织1-0/1-2//、经绒组织1-0/2-3//,与面层1配合编织形成鞋面的网孔5、薄平纹、厚平纹的花纹效果;所述贾卡梳栉JB2、贾卡梳栉JB3为分离式贾卡梳栉,即在机台上将一把满机号的贾卡梳栉分成两个半把半机号的所述贾卡贾卡梳栉JB2、贾卡梳栉JB3;地梳梳栉GB4、地梳梳栉GB5在前针床和后针床垫纱形成所述结构空气层;地梳梳栉GB4在面部走变化经段组织1-0/1-2/2-3/3-4/4-5/5-6/6-7/6-5/5-4/4-3/3-2/2-1//,底部走变化经段组织0-1/2-1/3-2/4-3/5-4/6-5/7-6/5-6/4-5/3-4/2-3/1-2//;地梳梳栉GB5在面部走变化经段组织6-7/6-5/5-4/4-3/3-2/2-1/1-0/1-2/2-3/3-4/4-5/5-6//,底部走变化经段组织7-6/5-6/4-5/3-4/2-3/1-2/0-1/2-1/3-2/4-3/5-4/6-5//;为该提供方案织物固定组织走向,呈现菱形风格的结构空气层纹理;地梳梳栉GB6、地梳梳栉GB7在后针床垫纱形成所述底层2,地梳梳栉GB6在底部走经平组织1-0/1-2//;地梳梳栉GB7在底部走经绒组织2-3/1-0//,为该提供方案织物固定组织走向。
实施例2
参照图2、图3和图6,本实施例提供一种经编结构空气层纹理织物的制作方法,且本实施例中的经编结构空气层纹理织物包括从上至下依次层叠且一体编织成型的面层1、结构空气层和底层2。
S1.梳栉设置:双针床高速经编机进行编织,具有7把梳栉,7把梳栉从前针床至后针床依次设为地梳梳栉GB1、地梳梳栉GB2、地梳梳栉GB3、地梳梳栉GB4、地梳梳栉GB5、地梳梳栉GB6、地梳梳栉GB7;
S2.穿纱:地梳梳栉GB1、地梳梳栉GB2均以满穿的方式进行穿纱;地梳梳栉GB3、地梳梳栉GB4均以4穿12空的方式进行穿纱,即每穿4根纱线后空出12个位置再继续循环穿纱;地梳梳栉GB5以4穿4空的方式进行穿纱,即每穿4根纱线后空出4个位置再继续循环穿纱; 地梳梳栉GB6、地梳梳栉GB7均以满穿的方式进行穿纱;
S3.编织:地梳梳栉GB1:整经P-FTY100D/48F半光6个盘头每个盘头476根纱,齿轮送经量1750mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB1走经编基本组织0-1/2-1//,纱线含量占18.373%左右;地梳梳栉GB2:整经P-FTY100D/48F半光6个盘头每个盘头476根纱,齿轮送经量2250mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB2走经编基本组织3-2/0-1//,纱线含量占23.622%左右;地梳梳栉GB3:整经P-DT0.08/1F有光(64D/1F)6个盘头每个盘头119根纱,齿轮送经量6400mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB3走经编变化经斜组织(4-5/5-4)*12/(1-0/0-1)*6/(4-5/5-4)*6//,纱线含量占6.719%左右;地梳梳栉GB4:整经P-DT0.08/1F有光(64D/1F)6个盘头每个盘头119根纱,齿轮送经量6400mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB4走经编变化经斜组织(1-0/0-1)*6/(4-5/5-4)*18//,纱线含量占6.719%左右;地梳梳栉GB5:整经P-DT0.08/1F有光(64D/1F)6个盘头每个盘头238根纱,齿轮送经量6600mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB5走经编基本组织1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//,纱线含量占13.858%左右;地梳梳栉GB6:整经P-FDY75D/36F半光6个盘头每个盘头476根纱,齿轮送经量2200mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB6走经编基本组织3-2/0-1//,纱线含量占17.323%左右;地梳梳栉GB7:整经P-FDY75D/36F半光6个盘头每个盘头476根纱,齿轮送经量2200mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB7走经编基本组织0-1/2-1//,纱线含量占13.386%左右;地梳梳栉GB1、地梳梳栉GB2在前针床上垫纱形成所述面层1,地梳梳栉GB1在面部走经平组织0-1/2-1//,地梳梳栉GB2在面部走经绒组织3-2/0-1//,为该提供方案织物固定组织走向;地梳梳栉GB3、地梳梳栉GB4、地梳梳栉GB5在前针床和后针床垫纱形成所述结构空气层;地梳梳栉GB3在面部走变化经斜组织(4-5)*12/(1-0)*6/(4-5)*6//,底部走变化经斜组织(5-4)*12/(0-1)*6/(5-4)*6//;地梳梳栉GB4在面部走变化经斜组织(1-0)*6/(4-5)*18//,底部走变化经斜组织(0-1)*6/(5-4)*18//;地梳梳栉GB5在面部走编链组织1-0/0-1//,底部走编链组织1-0/0-1//;为该提供方案织物固定组织走向,呈现长形风格的结构空气层纹理;地梳梳栉GB6、地梳梳栉GB7在后针床垫纱形成所述底层2,地梳梳栉GB6在底部走经绒组织3-2/0-1//;地梳梳栉GB7在底部走经绒组织0-1/2-1//,为该提供方案织物固定组织走向。
实施例3
参照图4、图6,本实施例提供一种经编结构空气层纹理织物的制作方法,且本实施例中的经编结构空气层纹理织物包括从上至下依次层叠且一体编织成型的面层1、结构空气层和底层2。
S1.梳栉设置:双针床高速经编机进行编织,具有7把梳栉,7把梳栉从前针床至后针床依次设为地梳梳栉GB1、地梳梳栉GB2、地梳梳栉GB3、地梳梳栉GB4、地梳梳栉GB5、地梳梳栉GB6、地梳梳栉GB7;
S2.穿纱:地梳梳栉GB1、地梳梳栉GB2均以满穿的方式进行穿纱;地梳梳栉GB3、地梳梳栉GB4均以4穿12空的方式进行穿纱,即每穿4根纱线后空出12个位置再继续循环穿纱;地梳梳栉GB5以4穿4空的方式进行穿纱,即每穿4根纱线后空出4个位置再继续循环穿纱;地梳梳栉GB6、地梳梳栉GB7均以满穿的方式进行穿纱;
S3.编织:
地梳梳栉GB1:整经P-FTY100D/48F半光环保丝(recycle)6个盘头每个盘头476根纱,齿轮送经量1750mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB1走经编基本组织0-1/2-1//,纱线含量占18.373%左右;地梳梳栉GB2:整经P-FTY100D/48F半光6个盘头每个盘头476根纱,齿轮送经量2250mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB2走经编基本组织3-2/0-1//,纱线含量占23.622%左右;地梳梳栉GB3:整经P-DT0.08/1F有光(64D/1F)6个盘头每个盘头119根纱,齿轮送经量6400mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB3走经编基本组织(1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1)*6/(1-0/0-1)*6/(1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1)*3//,纱线含量占6.719%左右;地梳梳栉GB4:整经P-DT0.08/1F有光(64D/1F)6个盘头每个盘头119根纱,齿轮送经量6400mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB4走经编基本组织(1-0/0-1)*6/(1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1)*9//,纱线含量占6.719%左右;地梳梳栉GB5:整经P-DT0.08/1F有光(64D/1F)6个盘头每个盘头238根纱,齿轮送经量6600mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB5走经编基本组织1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//,纱线含量占13.858%左右;地梳梳栉GB6:整经P-FDY75D/36F半光6个盘头每个盘头476根纱,齿轮送经量2200mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB6走经编基本组织3-2/0-1//,纱线含量占17.323%左右;地梳梳栉GB7:整经P-FDY75D/36F半光6个盘头每个盘头476根纱,齿轮送经量2200mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB7走经编基本组织0-1/2-1//,纱线含量占13.386%左右;地梳梳栉GB1、地梳梳栉GB2在前针床上垫纱形成所述面层1,地梳梳栉GB1在面部走经平组织0-1/2-1//,地梳梳栉GB2在面部走经绒组织3-2/0-1//,为该提供方案织物固定组织走向;地梳梳栉GB3、地梳梳栉GB4、地梳梳栉GB5在前针床和后针床垫纱形成所述结构空气层;地梳梳栉GB3在面部走经编缺垫组织(1-1/0-0)*6/(1-0)*6/(1-1/0-0)*3//,底部走编链组织(1-0/0-1)*6/(0-1)*6/(1-0/0-1)*3//;地梳梳栉GB4在面部走经编缺垫组织(1-0)*6/(1-1/0-0)*9//,底部走编链组织(0-1)*6/(1-0/0-1)*9//;地梳梳栉GB5在面部走编链组织1-0/0-1//,底部走编链组织1-0/0-1//;为该提供方案织物固定组织走向,呈现长形风格的结构空气层纹理;地梳梳栉GB6、地梳梳栉GB7在后针床垫纱形成所述底层2,地梳梳栉GB6在底部走经绒组织3-2/0-1//;地梳梳栉GB7在底部走经绒组织0-1/2-1//,为该提供方案织物固定组织走向。
实施例4
参照图5、图7,本实施例提供一种经编结构空气层纹理织物的制作方法,且本实施例中 的经编结构空气层纹理织物包括从上至下依次层叠且一体编织成型的面层1、花纹层4、结构空气层和底层2。
S1.梳栉设置:双针床贾卡经编机进行编织,具有6把梳栉,7把梳栉从前针床至后针床依次设为地梳梳栉GB1、地梳梳栉GB2、贾卡梳栉JB3、贾卡梳栉JB4、地梳梳栉GB5、地梳梳栉GB6;
S2.穿纱:地梳梳栉GB1以4穿4空的方式进行穿纱,即每穿4根纱线后空出4个位置再继续循环穿纱;地梳梳栉GB2以满穿的方式进行穿纱;贾卡梳栉JB3、贾卡梳栉JB4均以1穿1空的方式进行穿纱,即每穿1根纱线后空出1个位置再继续循环穿纱;地梳梳栉GB5以4穿4空的方式进行穿纱,即每穿4根纱线后空出4个位置再继续循环穿纱;地梳梳栉GB6以满穿的方式进行穿纱;
S3.编织:地梳梳栉GB1:整经P-DTY150D/48F CD有光白低弹轻网6个盘头每个盘头248根纱,齿轮送经量550mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB1走经编缺垫组织(0-0/0-0/1-1/1-1)*4(0-0/0-0/2-2/2-2)*4//,纱线含量占2.485%左右;地梳梳栉GB2:整经P-DTY150D/48F半光环保低弹轻网(recycle)6个盘头每个盘头248根纱,齿轮送经量1650mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB2走经编基本组织0-1/0-0/1-0/1-1//,纱线含量占20.540%左右;贾卡梳栉JB3:整经P-DTY150D/48F半光环保低弹轻网(recycle)6个盘头每个盘头248根纱,齿轮送经量2250mm/腊克,贾卡梳栉JB3走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,纱线含量占14.005%左右;贾卡梳栉JB4:整经P-DTY150D/48F半光环保低弹轻网(recycle)6个盘头每个盘头248根纱,齿轮送经量2250mm/腊克,贾卡梳栉JB4走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,纱线含量占14.005%左右;地梳梳栉GB5:整经P-DT30D/1F环保单丝半光6个盘头每个盘头248根纱,齿轮送经量8500mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB5走经编经绒组织1-0/1-0/2-3/2-3//,纱线含量占21.163%左右;地梳梳栉GB6:整经P-FDY100D/48F半光环保丝(recycle)6个盘头每个盘头496根纱,齿轮送经量3350mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB1走经编重经组织1-1/0-2/1-1/3-1//,纱线含量占27.802%左右;地梳梳栉GB1、地梳梳栉GB2在前针床上垫纱形成所述面层1,地梳梳栉GB1在面部走经编缺垫组织(0-0/1-1)*4/(0-0/2-2)*4;地梳梳栉GB2在面部走编链组织0-1/1-0//,为该提供方案织物固定组织走向,在面部效果形成横向间断,纵向等距的花纹效果;贾卡梳栉JB3走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,在前针床垫纱形成所述花纹层4,结合偏移信号在面部走编链组织2-1/1-2//、经平组织1-0/1-2//、经绒组织1-0/2-3//、重经缺垫组织2-0/1-1//,与面层1配合编织形成鞋面的网孔5、组合孔、薄平纹区7、厚平纹区6的花纹效果;贾卡梳栉JB4走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,在前针床垫纱形成所述花纹层4,结合偏移信号在面部走编链组织 2-1/1-2//、经平组织1-0/1-2//、经绒组织1-0/2-3//、重经缺垫组织1-1/1-3//,与面层1配合编织形成鞋面的网孔5、薄平纹、厚平纹的花纹效果;;所述贾卡梳栉JB2、贾卡梳栉JB3为分离式贾卡梳栉,即在机台上将一把满机号的贾卡梳栉分成两个半把半机号的所述贾卡贾卡梳栉JB3、贾卡梳栉JB4;地梳梳栉GB5、在前针床和后针床垫纱形成所述结构空气层;地梳梳栉GB5在面部走经绒组织1-0/2-3//,底部走经绒组织1-0/2-3//;为该提供方案织物固定组织走向,呈现纵向间断形风格的结构空气层纹理;地梳梳栉GB6在后针床垫纱形成所述底层2,地梳梳栉GB6在底部走重经组织0-2/3-1//。
实施例5
参照图5、图8,本实施例提供一种经编结构空气层纹理织物的制作方法,且本实施例中的经编结构空气层纹理织物包括从上至下依次层叠且一体编织成型的面层1、花纹层4、结构空气层和底层2。
S1.梳栉设置:双针床贾卡经编机进行编织,具有8把梳栉,8把梳栉从前针床至后针床依次设为地梳梳栉GB1、地梳梳栉GB2、贾卡梳栉JB3、贾卡梳栉JB4、贾卡梳栉JB5、贾卡梳栉JB6、地梳梳栉GB7、地梳梳栉GB8;
S2.穿纱:地梳梳栉GB11、地梳梳栉GB2以2穿2空的方式进行穿纱,即每穿2根纱线后空出2个位置再继续循环穿纱;贾卡梳栉JB3、贾卡梳栉JB4、贾卡梳栉JB5、贾卡梳栉JB6均以1穿1空的方式进行穿纱,即每穿1根纱线后空出1个位置再继续循环穿纱;地梳梳栉GB7以4穿4空的方式进行穿纱,即每穿4根纱线后空出4个位置再继续循环穿纱;地梳梳栉GB8以满穿的方式进行穿纱;
S3.编织:地梳梳栉GB1:整经P-FDY150D/96F CD有光6个盘头每个盘头256根纱,齿轮送经量1980mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB1走经编经斜组织1-0/1-1/2-3/2-2/3-2/3-3/4-5/2-2/3-2/1-1/2-3/2-2//,纱线含量占11.664%左右;地梳梳栉GB2:整经P-FDY150D/96F CD有光6个盘头每个盘头256根纱,齿轮送经量1980mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB2走经编经斜组织4-5/2-2/3-2/1-1/2-3/2-2/1-0/1-1/2-3/2-2/3-2/3-3//,纱线含量占11.664%左右;贾卡梳栉JB3:整经P-DTY150D/48F半光环保低弹轻网(recycle),纱架1536跟纱,齿轮送经量2200mm/腊克,贾卡梳栉JB3走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,纱线含量占12.9605%左右;贾卡梳栉JB4:整经P-DTY150D/48F半光环保低弹轻网(recycle),纱架1536跟纱,齿轮送经量2200mm/腊克,贾卡梳栉JB4走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,纱线含量占12.9605%左右;贾卡梳栉JB5:整经N-DT0.10/1F锦纶有光(83D/1F),纱架1536跟纱,齿轮送经量2200mm/腊克,贾卡梳栉JB5走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//,纱线含量7.717%左右;贾卡梳栉JB6:整经N-DT0.10/1F锦纶有光(83D/1F),纱架1536跟纱,齿轮 送经量2200mm/腊克,贾卡梳栉JB6走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//,纱线含量7.717%左右;地梳梳栉GB7:整经P-DT30D/1F环保单丝半光6个盘头每个盘头256根纱,齿轮送经量6900mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB7走经编基本组织1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//,纱线含量占8.130%左右;地梳梳栉GB8:整经P-DTY100D/96F半光黑低弹轻网6个盘头每个盘头512根纱,齿轮送经量3600mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB8走经编重组织1-1/0-2/2-2/3-1//,纱线含量占8.130%左右;地梳梳栉GB1、地梳梳栉GB2在前针床上垫纱形成所述面层1,地梳梳栉GB1在面部走经斜组织1-0/2-3/3-2/4-5/3-2/2-3//;地梳梳栉GB2在面部走经斜组织4-5/3-2/2-3/1-0/2-3/3-2//,为该提供方案织物固定组织走向,在面部效果形成规律小六角网孔5的花纹效果;贾卡梳栉JB3走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,在前针床垫纱形成所述花纹层4,结合偏移信号在面部走编链组织2-1/1-2//、经平组织1-0/1-2//、缺垫组织1-1/2-2//,与面层1配合编织形成鞋面的网孔5、薄平纹、厚平纹、镂空的花纹效果;贾卡梳栉JB4走贾卡基本组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,在前针床垫纱形成所述花纹层4,结合偏移信号在面部走编链组织2-1/1-2//、经平组织1-0/1-2//、经绒组织1-0/2-3//、缺垫组织1-1/2-2//,与面层1配合编织形成鞋面的网孔5、薄平纹区7、厚平纹区6、镂空的花纹效果;;所述贾卡梳栉JB2、贾卡梳栉JB3为分离式贾卡梳栉,即在机台上将一把满机号的贾卡梳栉分成两个半把半机号的所述贾卡贾卡梳栉JB3、贾卡梳栉JB4;贾卡梳栉JB5、贾卡梳栉JB6,根据区域效果以及纹理效果需求自由进行设计,在前针床和/或后针床垫纱形成所述结构空气层纹理,地梳梳栉7在前针床和后针床垫纱形成所述结构空气层;地梳梳栉GB7在面部走经绒组织1-0/0-1//,底部走经绒组织1-0/0-1//;为该提供方案织物固定组织走向,呈现纵向间断形风格的结构空气层纹理;该织物呈现规律空气层以及任意纹理空气层的双层次效果。地梳梳栉GB8在后针床垫纱形成所述底层2,地梳梳栉GB8在底部走重经组织0-2/3-1//,本实施例中贾卡梳栉使用的是纱架消极式送经,其余梳栉均使用的是盘头积极式送经。
纱架消极式送经,通过纱架上方的筒纱进行独立供纱,每一粒纱线卷绕在长度23cm、内经纱管上,纱管前段装有一排铝条并配有环式压力张力器,纱架消极式送经;优点:可以精确掌控到每一根纱线的张力,使得贾卡梳的张力调机更佳灵活,有助于丰富贾卡梳栉的提花效果。如果采用盘头积极式送经:贾卡梳的张力控制由经轴统一供纱、意味着贾卡梳栉张力受限、贾卡提花效果变得过于局限,不利于贾卡产品的创新;盘头积极式送经:通过贾卡经编机机前机后的经轴统一供纱。优点:能实现更高的车速,提高了生产效率;更改送经量方便、迅速、无需更换送经变换齿轮;更换经轴时不需要人工转动经轴,只需简单按键即可。
实施例6
参照图6、图9,本实施例提供一种经编结构空气层纹理织物的制作方法,且本实施例中 的经编结构空气层纹理织物包括从上至下依次层叠且一体编织成型的面层1、结构空气层3和底层2。
S1.梳栉设置:双针床高速经编机进行编织,具有7把梳栉,7把梳栉从前针床至后针床依次设为地梳梳栉GB1、地梳梳栉GB2、地梳梳栉GB3、地梳梳栉GB4、地梳梳栉GB5、地梳梳栉GB6;
S2.穿纱:地梳梳栉GB1、地梳梳栉GB2均以满穿的方式进行穿纱;地梳梳栉GB3、地梳梳栉GB4均以8穿16空的方式进行穿纱,即每穿8根纱线后空出16个位置再继续循环穿纱;地梳梳栉GB5、地梳梳栉GB6均以满穿的方式进行穿纱;
S3.编织:
地梳梳栉GB1:整经P-FTY100D/48F半光环保丝(recycle)6个盘头每个盘头476根纱,齿轮送经量2950mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB1走经编基本组织3-4/1-0//,纱线含量占23.667%左右;
地梳梳栉GB2:整经P-FTY100D/48F半光环保丝(recycle)6个盘头每个盘头476根纱,齿轮送经量1850mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB2走经编基本组织1-0/1-2//,纱线含量占14.842%左右;
梳梳栉GB3:整经P-DT0.08/1F有光(64D/1F)6个盘头每个盘头159根纱,齿轮送经量6700mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB3走经编基本组织(1-0/0-1)/(1-2/2-1)/(5-6/6-5)/(9-10/10-9)/(13-14/14-13)/(14-15/15-14)/(13-12/12-13)/(11-10/10-11)/(9-8/8-9)/(7-6/6-7)/(5-4/4-5)/(3-2/2-3)//,纱线含量占11.491%左右;
地梳梳栉GB4:整经P-DT0.08/1F有光(64D/1F)6个盘头每个盘头159根纱,齿轮送经量6700mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB4走经编基本组织(13-12/12-13)/(11-10/10-11)/(9-8/8-9)/(7-6/6-7)/(5-4/4-5)/(3-2/2-3)/(1-0/0-1)/(1-2/2-1)/(5-6/6-5)/(9-10/10-9)/(13-14/14-13)/(14-15/15-14)//,纱线含量占11.491%左右;
地梳梳栉GB5:整经P-FDY100D/36F CD有光6个盘头每个盘头476根纱,齿轮送经量1850mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB6走经编基本组织1-0/1-2//,纱线含量占14.842%左右;
地梳梳栉GB6:整经P-FDY100D/36F CD有光6个盘头每个盘头476根纱,齿轮送经量2950mm/腊克,地梳梳栉GB7走经编基本组织3-4/1-0//,纱线含量占23.667%左右;
地梳梳栉GB1、地梳梳栉GB2在前针床上垫纱形成所述面层1,地梳梳栉GB1在面部走经斜组织3-4/1-0//,地梳梳栉GB2在面部走经平组织1-0/1-2//,为该提供方案织物固定组织走向;地梳梳栉GB3、地梳梳栉GB4、地梳梳栉GB5在前针床和后针床垫纱形成所述结构空气层3;地梳梳栉GB3在面部走经编变化经锻组织 1-0/1-2/5-6/9-10/13-14/14-15/13-12/11-10/9-8/7-6/5-4/3-2//,底部走变化经锻组织0-1/2-1/6-5/10-9/14-13/15-14/12-13/10-11/8-9/6-7/4-5/2-3//;地梳梳栉GB4在面部走经编变化经锻组织13-12/11-10/9-8/7-6/5-4/3-2/1-0/1-2/5-6/9-10/13-14/14-15//,底部走变化经锻组织12-13/10-11/8-9/6-7/4-5/2-3/0-1/2-1/6-5/10-9/14-13/15-14//;为该提供方案织物固定组织走向,呈现浪花风格的结构空气层3纹理;地梳梳栉GB5、地梳梳栉GB6在后针床垫纱形成所述底层2,地梳梳栉GB6在底部走经平组织1-0/1-2//;地梳梳栉GB7在底部走经斜组织3-4/1-0//,为该提供方案织物固定组织走向。
与热压绣花工艺相比,本实施例中面料合理利用组织结构与纱线的特性,形成具有经编特色的浪花浮雕风格的立体效应,减少后道工艺制造成本及改善热压绣花面料的透气性单一、触感、耐磨性以及视觉冲击较差。
空气结构层3:利用空气结构层3提花走双针床变化经锻的组织,在实际编织中利用牵拉受力的特性使得网布空气层与面底层张力收缩不一致形成成在所述面层1、底层2自然收缩形成浪花凹凸花纹,在保持三明治空气层特殊的同时兼具热压绣花后工艺的浪花凹凸效果,降低织造成的同时形成具有经编特色的浮雕风格的立体效应的空气层三明治网布。
传统浪花凹凸花纹工艺相比,本实施例中面料合理利用组织结构与纱线的特性,形成具有经编特色的浪花浮雕风格的立体效应,有效解决染厂定型难点,降低制造成本及改善传统工艺普遍存在色牢度较差等问题提升网布品质。
空气结构层3:利用空气结构层3提花走双针床变化经锻的组织,在实际编织中利用牵拉受力的特性使得网布空气层与面底层张力收缩不一致形成浪花凹凸花纹,在保持三明治空气层特殊的同时兼具热压绣花后工艺的浪花凹凸效果,降低织造成的同时形成具有经编特色的浮雕风格的立体效应的空气层三明治网布。
需说明,在上文的描述中阐述了很多具体细节以便于充分理解本发明,但是,本发明还可以采用其他不同于在此描述的其他方式来实施,因此,本发明的保护范围并不受上面公开的具体实施例的限制。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种经编结构空气层纹理面料,包括面料本体,其特征在于:该面料本体包括自上而下依次层叠的面层、结构空气层以及底层,该结构空气层采用具有刚性支撑的纱线进行织造,且在面层表面形成以结构空气层为基底的第一纹理。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的经编结构空气层纹理面料,其特征在于:还包括花纹层,该花纹层位于面层与结构空气层之间,且在面层表面形成以花纹层为基底的第二纹理。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的经编结构空气层纹理面料,其特征在于:该空气结构层包括若干个空气结构组织,该空气结构组织的形状与第一纹理相适配,且该空气结构组织呈菱形、蜂窝状、长条形、间断型、字母形中的任意一种或几种。
  4. 根据权利要求2所述的经编结构空气层纹理面料,其特征在于:该第二纹理包括网孔、厚平纹以及薄平纹中的任意一种或几种。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的经编结构空气层纹理面料,其特征在于:具有刚性支撑的纱线采用穿纱变化组合的纹理形式进行织造形成结构空气层。
  6. 根据权利要求2所述的经编结构空气层纹理面料,其特征在于:该面层、花纹层、结构空气层以及底层为一体编织而成。
  7. 一种根据权利要求1-6任一所述的经编结构空气层纹理面料的制作方法,其特征在于:该方法包括:
    梳栉设置步骤:选用具有至少六把梳栉的经编机进行编织;
    穿纱步骤:对各梳栉进行穿纱;
    编织步骤:利用其中至少一把梳栉在前针床上垫纱形成所述面层;利用其中多把梳栉在前针床和后针床垫纱形成所述结构空气层,结构空气层与面层配合形成第一纹理;利用其中至少一把梳栉在后针床垫纱形成所述底层。
  8. 根据权利要求7所述的制作方法,其特征在于:编织步骤中还包括:利用其中至少一把梳栉在前针床垫纱形成所述花纹层;该花纹层与面层配合形成第二纹理。
  9. 根据权利要求7所述的制作方法,其特征在于:各梳栉包括地梳梳栉或地梳梳栉与贾卡梳栉组合,其中贾卡梳栉为分离式贾卡梳栉。
  10. 根据权利要求7所述的制作方法,其特征在于:穿纱步骤中,纱线输送采用送经系系统进行输送,该送经系统包括用于控制纱线张力的纱架消极式送经机构、用于提高送纱速度的盘头积极式送经机构以及用于送纱速度调节的多速送经机构;该纱架消极式送经机构、盘头积极式送经机构以及多速送经机构按照纱线输送方向依次排列。
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