WO2022185577A1 - 水中油型唇用化粧料 - Google Patents
水中油型唇用化粧料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2022185577A1 WO2022185577A1 PCT/JP2021/033559 JP2021033559W WO2022185577A1 WO 2022185577 A1 WO2022185577 A1 WO 2022185577A1 JP 2021033559 W JP2021033559 W JP 2021033559W WO 2022185577 A1 WO2022185577 A1 WO 2022185577A1
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- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- water
- hydrocarbon
- mass
- cosmetic
- Prior art date
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 66
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 54
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 43
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 43
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 125000000118 dimethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 58
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 22
- 125000006353 oxyethylene group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 19
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 17
- 125000005702 oxyalkylene group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 16
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 14
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 13
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- 125000002947 alkylene group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 10
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 claims description 10
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 claims description 4
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- 230000003405 preventing effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 4
- -1 yellow No. 4 Chemical compound 0.000 description 38
- LCGLNKUTAGEVQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dimethyl ether Chemical compound COC LCGLNKUTAGEVQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 28
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- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 6
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- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 5
- 125000000383 tetramethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 5
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 229920006037 cross link polymer Polymers 0.000 description 4
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
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- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8117—Homopolymers or copolymers of aromatic olefines, e.g. polystyrene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a lip cosmetic, and particularly to a lip cosmetic that has an excellent secondary adhesion-less effect, a long lasting gloss, and an excellent fitting feeling.
- Patent Literature 1 discloses a transfer-resistant solid cosmetic in which a silicone-based surfactant is blended in combination with a volatile oil, and a pigment is well dispersed.
- Patent Document 2 describes a transfer-resistant lipstick composition containing incompatible perfluoropolyether-type non-volatile oil and volatile oil.
- this lipstick composition has a problem that it takes some time after application for the secondary adhesion-less effect to be exhibited.
- the present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned prior art, and the problem to be solved is that it has an excellent secondary adhesion-less effect, has excellent glossiness and fit to the lips, and has a freshness in water. To provide an oil-type lip cosmetic.
- the oil-in-water type cosmetic for lips is characterized by containing the following components (A) to (E).
- the hydrocarbon-based polymer as the film-forming agent is preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass in the cosmetic.
- the film-forming agent preferably contains a hydrocarbon-based solvent that dissolves the hydrocarbon-based polymer.
- the amount of the hydrocarbon-based solvent is preferably 50 to 99 parts by mass with respect to 100 parts by mass of the film-forming agent.
- the blending amount of the components (A) to (E) is (A) 10 to 40% by mass of dimethyl silicone oil with a viscosity of 100CS to 50000CS)
- D water-based thickener 0.01 to 5 mass%
- E water 25 to 70 mass%
- the hydrocarbon-based polymer is preferably at least one selected from ethylene monomer units and/or styrene monomer units.
- the (D) water-based thickener is a water-based thickener comprising an acrylic acid-based polymer.
- the ink does not contain a pigment.
- (G) a moisturizing agent is further included.
- a moisturizing agent is preferably represented by the following general formula (1) and contains 0.1 to 5% by mass of an alkylene oxide derivative having a molecular weight of 1,000 to 5,000.
- AO is an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms
- EO is an oxyethylene group
- p and q are an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms
- the average number of added moles of oxyethylene groups respectively, 1 ⁇ p ⁇ 70, 1 ⁇ q ⁇ 70
- the ratio of the oxyethylene group to the total of the oxyalkylene group and the oxyethylene group is 20 to 80% by mass
- an oxyalkylene group and an oxyethylene group may be added in a block form or in a random form
- R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different, a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or hydrogen atoms, and the ratio of the number of hydrogen atoms to the number of hydrocarbon groups in
- the oil-in-water lip cosmetic according to the present invention comprises (A) a dimethyl silicone oil having a viscosity of 100CS to 50000CS, (B) a film-forming agent containing a hydrocarbon polymer incompatible with component (A), and (C) By blending specific amounts of a non-silicone surfactant with an HLB of 12 or higher, (D) a water-based thickener, and (E) water, the effect of preventing secondary adhesion is exhibited immediately after application, and the underwater surface has excellent gloss and fit. An oil-type lip cosmetic is obtained.
- the lip cosmetic according to the present invention includes (A) a dimethyl silicone oil having a viscosity of 100 CS to 50000 CS, (B) a film-forming agent made of a hydrocarbon-based polymer incompatible with component (A), and (C) a non It is composed of a silicone-based surfactant, (D) a water-based thickener, and (E) water.
- A a dimethyl silicone oil having a viscosity of 100 CS to 50000 CS
- B a film-forming agent made of a hydrocarbon-based polymer incompatible with component (A)
- D a water-based thickener
- E water
- component (A) Dimethyl silicone oil having a viscosity of 100 CS to 50000 CS
- Component (A) is an oil that is incompatible with component (B). Since component (A) has low affinity with the lips, it becomes the outermost layer when applied to the lips. "Res effect" is demonstrated.
- the viscosity of component (A) is preferably 100CS to 50000CS. Furthermore, it is particularly preferable that the viscosity is 500CS to 30000CS. A mixture of dimethylsilicone oils with different viscosities can also be used as long as the viscosity is within this range. If the viscosity is 100 CS or less, the secondary adhesion resistance effect may not be exhibited, and if it exceeds 50000 CS, the impression may be thick.
- component (A) examples include dimethicone 100CS, dimethicone 5000CS, dimethicone 500CS, dimethicone 1000CS, and dimethicone 3000CS.
- Commercially available products include KF-96A-300cs, KF-96A-500cs and KF-96A-5000cs (all manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).
- the blending amount of component (A) is preferably 10 to 40% by mass with respect to the total cosmetic composition. If the blending amount is less than 10% by mass, separation may be insufficient at the time of application, resulting in insufficient gloss. On the other hand, when the blending amount exceeds 40% by mass, the fresh feeling during use is impaired.
- Component (B) is a film forming agent containing a hydrocarbon polymer incompatible with component (A).
- the component (B) has a higher affinity with the lips than the component (A) and adheres easily to the lips. Therefore, by forming a film between the lips and the component (A), a fit feeling can be felt, and a secondary adhesion-less effect can be expected as compared to when there is no film.
- the hydrocarbon-based polymer blended in the lip cosmetic of the present invention is one or more selected from copolymers having at least one selected from ethylene monomer units and styrene monomer units. be done.
- copolymers having at least one selected from ethylene monomer units and styrene monomer units. be done.
- (styrene/isoprene) copolymers (ethylene/propylene/styrene) copolymers, (styrene/butadiene) copolymers, (butylene/ethylene/styrene) copolymers, (styrene/propylene/butylene) copolymers, (styrene/butylene) copolymers, and (ethylene/propylene) copolymer.
- the film-forming agent preferably contains a hydrocarbon-based solvent as a solvent for dissolving the hydrocarbon-based polymer. If a hydrocarbon-based solvent is not used, the spreadability on the skin may be poor only with a hydrocarbon-based polymer.
- a hydrocarbon-based solvent isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene and the like are suitable. Both a volatile solvent and a non-volatile solvent can be used as the hydrocarbon solvent.
- the hydrocarbon-based solvent evaporates over time after application, and the hydrocarbon-based polymer forms a firm coating.
- a non-volatile solvent is used, the hydrocarbon polymer and the hydrocarbon solvent form a moist gel-like film on the coated surface.
- the concentration of the hydrocarbon-based solvent in the film-forming agent is preferably 50 to 99 parts by mass of the hydrocarbon-based solvent per 100 parts by mass of the film-forming agent.
- Commercially available products that can be used as film-forming agents include VERSAGEL (registered trademark) MD1600, ME2000 (Penreco), Creagel (registered trademark) Crystal ID, Crystal AF, and the like.
- the blending amount of the hydrocarbon-based polymer in the cosmetic is preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass, particularly preferably 1 to 7% by mass. Moreover, if it exceeds 10% by mass, it may affect the feeling of use such as stickiness. Also, the amount of the film forming agent in the cosmetic is preferably 5 to 30% by mass. If the amount is less than 5% by mass, the film may not be formed, and if it exceeds 30% by mass, the fresh feel may be impaired.
- Non-Silicone Surfactant with HLB of 12 or More A non-silicone surfactant with HLB of 12 or more is included as component (C).
- the HLB of the surfactant is 12 or more, it dissolves in water and an oil-in-water composition is obtained.
- the reason for using a non-silicone surfactant is that when the (F) water-based dye is mixed with (A) the silicone oil, the secondary adhesion-less effect cannot be obtained.
- non-silicone surfactants having an HLB of 12 or more include ceteth-20, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, beheneth 20, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate and the like.
- NIKKOL BC-20 NIKKOL HCO-60
- NIKKOL BB-20 manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.
- EMALEX GWIS-120 manufactured by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd.
- one type or two or more types may be used as the component (C) blended in the lip cosmetic of the present invention.
- the blending amount of component (C) is preferably 1 to 4% by mass with respect to the entire cosmetic composition. If the amount is less than 1% by mass, the effect may not be exhibited, and if the amount is 4% by mass or more, the secondary adhesion resistance effect may be reduced.
- a water-based thickener can be included as component (D). It is preferable to contain the component (D) because the emulsification is stabilized.
- component (D) include (dimethylacrylamide/acryloyldimethyltaurate Na) crosspolymer, (acrylates/alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) crosspolymer, (hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyldimethyltaurate Na) copolymer, and the like. mentioned.
- a water-based thickener comprising an acrylic acid-based polymer is particularly preferred.
- Commercially available products include SIMULGEL TM NS (manufactured by SEPPIC SA).
- blending component (D) it is preferably 0.01 to 5% by mass based on the total amount of the lip cosmetic. If the amount is less than 0.01% by mass, it may not contribute to stable emulsification.
- the oil-in-water lip cosmetic according to the present invention contains water. Water is not particularly limited, and may be ion-exchanged water, tap water, or the like.
- the amount of water to be blended is preferably 25 to 70% by mass based on the total amount of the oil-in-water lip cosmetic. If the amount is less than 25% by mass, the smoothness during use may be impaired, and if it exceeds 70% by mass, the amounts of other components to be blended are relatively reduced and the effect cannot be obtained.
- the oil-in-water lip cosmetic according to the present invention can further contain (F) an aqueous dye.
- the pigment permeates into the lips instead of remaining in the cosmetic composition applied to the lips, so that the secondary adhesion-less effect can be obtained.
- Component (F) includes, for example, acid fuchsine, yellow No. 4, yellow 5, blue 1, red 227, green 3, red 401, red 504, orange 205, yellow 203, green 201, purple 201, purple 401, and black 401. , yellow 205 and the like.
- Commercially available products include UNICERT Yellow 08006-J (manufactured by Sensient Technologies Japan) and FD&C Green No. 3 (manufactured by Sensient Technologies Japan).
- the blending amount is preferably 0.01 to 1.5% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. If it is less than 0.01% by mass, the effect of the water-based dye cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 1.5% by mass, the cosmetic may be difficult to remove.
- the oil-in-water lip cosmetic of the present invention can further contain (G) a moisturizer.
- the oil-in-water type lip cosmetic of the present invention may feel dry due to volatilization of water, and this can be suppressed by blending a humectant.
- Moisturizing agents include, for example, moisturizing agents usually blended in cosmetics, such as alkylene oxide derivatives, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, hexamethylene glycol, isoprene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and hyaluron.
- Acid chondroitin sulfate, chitin, chitosan, xylitol, sorbitol, maltitol, mucoitin sulfate, caroninic acid, atelocollagen, cholesteryl-12-hydroxystearate, sodium lactate, bile salts, dl-pyrrolidone carboxylate, short-chain soluble collagen , diglycerin (EO)PO adducts, rose rose extract, yarrow extract, melilot extract and the like.
- EO diglycerin
- the moisturizing agent has an alkylene oxide derivative with a molecular weight of 1,000 to 5,000.
- the alkylene oxide derivative is not particularly limited, it is preferably a compound represented by the following formula (1).
- AO is an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms
- EO is an oxyethylene group
- p and q are an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms
- the average number of added moles of oxyethylene groups respectively, 1 ⁇ p ⁇ 70, 1 ⁇ q ⁇ 70
- the ratio of the oxyethylene group to the total of the oxyalkylene group and the oxyethylene group is 20 to 80% by mass
- the oxyalkylene group and the oxyethylene group are added in blocks.
- R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different, and each may be a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a hydrogen atom, and the number of hydrocarbon groups of R 1 and R 2 may be is 0.15 or
- AO is an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms, and examples thereof include oxypropylene group, oxybutylene group, oxyisobutylene group, trimethylene group and tetramethylene group. , preferably an oxypropylene group or an oxybutylene group.
- p is the average number of added moles of oxyalkylene groups having 3 to 4 carbon atoms, and satisfies 1 ⁇ p ⁇ 70, preferably 2 ⁇ p ⁇ 20.
- q is the average number of added moles of oxyethylene groups, and satisfies 1 ⁇ q ⁇ 70, preferably 2 ⁇ q ⁇ 20.
- (p+q) is preferably 8 to 100.
- the ratio of the oxyethylene group to the total of the oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms and the oxyethylene group is preferably 20 to 80% by mass.
- the order of addition of ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide having 3 to 4 carbon atoms is not particularly limited.
- the oxyethylene group and the oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms may be added in a block form or in a random form, preferably in a random form.
- the block shape includes not only two-stage blocks but also three-stage blocks.
- R 1 and R 2 Even if each of R 1 and R 2 is the same type, a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and a hydrogen atom may be mixed, or different hydrocarbon groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms may be mixed. may However, among the hydrocarbon groups of R 1 and R 2 , the abundance ratio of the hydrocarbon group and the hydrogen atom is such that the ratio Y/X of the number of hydrogen atoms (Y) to the number of hydrocarbon groups (X) is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.06 or less.
- alkylene oxide derivatives include, for example, polyoxyethylene (10 mol) polyoxypropylene (10 mol) dimethyl ether, polyoxyethylene (9 mol) polyoxypropylene (2 mol) dimethyl ether, polyoxyethylene (14 mol) Polyoxypropylene (7 mol) dimethyl ether, Polyoxyethylene (6 mol) Polyoxypropylene (14 mol) dimethyl ether, Polyoxyethylene (15 mol) Polyoxypropylene (5 mol) dimethyl ether, Polyoxyethylene (25 mol) Polyoxy Propylene (25 mol) dimethyl ether, polyoxyethylene (9 mol) polyoxybutylene (2 mol) dimethyl ether, polyoxyethylene (14 mol) polyoxybutylene (7 mol) dimethyl ether, polyoxyethylene (10 mol) polyoxypropylene ( 10 mol) diethyl ether, polyoxyethylene (10 mol) polyoxypropylene (10 mol) dipropyl ether, polyoxyethylene (10 mol) polyoxypropylene (10 mol) dibutyl ether,
- the alkylene oxide derivative of the present invention can be produced by a known method. For example, it can be obtained by subjecting a compound having a hydroxyl group to addition polymerization of ethylene oxide and an alkylene oxide having 3 to 4 carbon atoms, followed by an ether reaction with an alkyl halide in the presence of an alkali catalyst.
- the amount of the alkylene oxide derivative contained in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and more preferably, It is 0.5 to 2% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic.
- the oil-in-water lip cosmetic of the present invention contains oils, powders, polymer compounds, fragrances, antioxidants, and preservatives other than those used in ordinary oil-in-water lip cosmetics. , cosmetic ingredients, etc. can be appropriately blended within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.
- the oil-in-water lip cosmetic of the present invention can be used as lip gloss, lip base for foundation, lipstick overcoat, lip balm, and the like. Lip gloss is particularly preferred.
- the effect of preventing secondary adhesion when the sample was applied to the lips was evaluated on a 5-point scale based on the following scoring criteria.
- the score average value was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
- Score 3 points: feeling a high secondary adhesion-less effect 2 points: feeling no secondary adhesion effect 1 point: feeling no secondary adhesion effect (evaluation criteria)
- C Average score of less than 1.5 (3)
- Glossy feeling (method for evaluating glossy feeling)
- a practical usability test was conducted by a panel of 10 experts. The glossy feeling when the sample was applied to the lips was evaluated in three grades based on the following scoring criteria.
- the score average value was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
- oil-in-water type lip cosmetics having good appearance and feel during use were obtained even when the film-forming agent made of a hydrocarbon-based polymer was used (Test Examples 1-1, 3-3, 3-4).
- the film-forming agent made of a hydrocarbon-based polymer was used (Test Examples 1-1, 3-3, 3-4).
- trimethylsiloxysilicate did not exhibit a sufficient secondary adhesion improving effect, suggesting that the effect is peculiar to hydrocarbon-based polymers.
- the isododecane used as the hydrocarbon-based solvent for the film-forming agent is volatile, and the hydrogenated polyisobutene is non-volatile. Comparing Test Examples 3-1 and 3-4, excellent cosmetics can be obtained using either solvent, but when volatile isododecane is used, a firm film is formed.
- the blending amount of the hydrocarbon-based polymer in the cosmetic is preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass, particularly preferably 1 to 7% by mass.
- the amount of the film-forming agent comprising the hydrocarbon-based polymer and the hydrocarbon-based solvent to be blended in the cosmetic is preferably 5 to 30% by mass.
- the amount of the hydrocarbon-based solvent in the film-forming agent is preferably 50 to 99 parts by mass from the viewpoint of manufacturability and spreadability during coating.
- Formulation example 1 Liquid lipstick Component Amount (% by mass) Ion-exchanged water Balance 1,3-butylene glycol 7.0 Cetheth-20 0.5 PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 2.0 Ethylene propylene copolymer and isododecane 20.0 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 3.0 Dimethicone (5000CS) 28.0 Ethanol 5.0 Acid fuchsine 0.03 Yellow No.
Abstract
Description
例えば、特許文献1には揮発性油分と組み合わせてシリコーン系界面活性剤を配合し、顔料を良好に分散させた耐移り性を有する固形化粧料が開示されている。
また、特許文献2には、非融和性であるペルフルオロポリエーテル型の非揮発性油と揮発性油を含有する耐移り性を有する口紅組成物が記載されている。しかし、この口紅組成物は、二次付着レス効果の発現には塗布後、しばらく時間がかかるという問題点があった。
(A)粘度が100CS~50000CSのジメチルシリコーン油
(B)(A)と相溶しない炭化水素系ポリマーを含む被膜形成剤
(C)HLB12以上の非シリコーン系界面活性剤
(D)水系増粘剤
(E)水
また、本発明にかかる水中油型唇用化粧料は、前記被膜形成剤の炭化水素系ポリマーは、化粧料中に0.5~10質量%であることが好適である。
また、本発明において、被膜形成剤は、炭化水素系ポリマーを溶解する炭化水素系溶媒を含むことが好適である。
また、本発明において、炭化水素系溶媒は、被膜形成剤100質量部に対し50~99質量部であることが好適である。
また、本発明において、(A)~(E)の成分の配合量が、
(A)粘度が100CS~50000CSのジメチルシリコーン油 10~40質量%
(B)(A)と相溶しない炭化水素系ポリマーを含む被膜形成剤 5~30質量%
(C)HLB12以上の非シリコーン系界面活性剤 1~4質量%
(D)水系増粘剤 0.01~5質量%
(E)水 25~70質量%、
であることが好適である。
また、本発明において、炭化水素系ポリマーがエチレンモノマーユニット及び/またはスチレンモノマーユニットから選択される少なくとも1種であることが好適である。
また、本発明において、(D)水系増粘剤がアクリル酸系ポリマーよりなる水系増粘剤であることが好適である。
また、本発明において、顔料を含まないことが好適である。
また、本発明において、(F)水性染料を0.01~1.5質量%含むことが好適である。
また、本発明において、さらに(G)保湿剤を含むことが好適である。
また、本発明において、(G)保湿剤が下記一般式(1)で示され、分子量が1000~5000のアルキレンオキシド誘導体を0.1~5質量%配合することが好適である。
オキシアルキレン基とオキシエチレン基とがブロック状に付加していてもランダム状に付加していてもよく、R1およびR2は同一もしくは異なっていてもよい炭素数1~4の炭化水素基または水素原子であり、R1およびR2の炭化水素基数に対する水素原子数の割合が0.15以下である)。
以下、各成分について詳細に説明する。
(A)成分は(B)成分と相溶しない油分である。(A)成分は唇との親和性が低いため、唇に塗布すると最外相になり、(A)成分がカップなどに付くことで、色味がカップにつくことがなく、いわゆる「二次付着レス効果」を発揮する。(A)成分の粘度は100CS~50000CSが好ましい。さらに粘度が500CS~30000CSであると特に好ましい。また、粘度の異なるジメチルシリコーン油の混合物であっても粘度がこの範囲内であれば用いることが出来る。粘度が100CS以下であると二次付着レス効果を発揮しないことがあり、50000CSを超えると厚ぼったい印象になることがある。
(A)成分として具体的には、ジメチコン100CS、ジメチコン5000CS、ジメチコン500CS、ジメチコン1000CS、ジメチコン3000CS等が挙げられる。
また、市販品としてはKF-96A-300cs、KF-96A-500cs、KF-96A-5000cs(全て信越化学工業社製)等がある。
(B)成分は(A)成分と相溶しない炭化水素系ポリマーを含む被膜形成剤である。この(B)成分は(A)成分よりも唇との親和性が高く、唇に密着しやすい。それゆえ唇と(A)成分との間に被膜を形成することでフィット感を感じられると共に、被膜がない場合よりもより二次付着レス効果が期待できる。
本発明において、被膜形成剤は炭化水素系ポリマーを溶解する溶媒として、炭化水素系溶媒を含むことが好ましい。炭化水素系溶媒を用いないと、炭化水素系ポリマーのみでは肌上での延展性に劣る場合がある。炭化水素系溶媒としては、イソドデカン、水添ポリイソブテンなどが好適である。
なお、炭化水素系溶媒は、揮発性溶媒、不揮発性溶媒のいずれも用いることができる。
揮発性溶媒を用いた場合には、塗布後、経時で炭化水素系溶媒が揮発し、前記炭化水素系ポリマーがしっかりとした被膜を形成する。
また、不揮発性溶媒を用いた場合には、前記炭化水素系ポリマー及び炭化水素系溶媒により、塗布面にしっとりとしたゲル状被膜を形成する。
被膜形成剤中の炭化水素系溶媒の濃度は、被膜形成剤100質量部に対し炭化水素系溶媒が50~99質量部であることが好ましい。
被膜形成剤として用いえる市販品としては、VERSAGEL(登録商標)MD1600、ME2000(Penreco社)、Creagel(登録商標)Crystal ID、Crystal AF等が挙げられる。
また、被膜形成剤としての化粧料中での配合量は、5~30質量%であることが好ましい。配合量が5質量%未満であると被膜が形成されないことがあり、30質量%を超えるとみずみずしい使用感が損なわれることがある。
(C)成分としてHLB12以上の非シリコーン系界面活性剤を含む。界面活性剤のHLBが12以上であることによって水に溶解し、水中油型の組成物が得られる。さらに非シリコーン系の活性剤を用いるのは(F)水性染料が(A)シリコーン油と混ざった場合、二次付着レス効果が得られないからである。
HLB12以上の非シリコーン系界面活性剤としてはセテス-20、PEG-60水添ヒマシ油、べへネス20、イソステアリン酸PEG-20グリセリル等が挙げられる。
市販品としてはNIKKOL BC-20、NIKKOL HCO-60、NIKKOL BB-20(以上、日光ケミカルズ株式会社製)、EMALEX GWIS-120(日本エマルジョン株式会社製)などがある。
なお、本発明の唇用化粧料に配合される(C)成分としては1種でも2種以上であっても良い。
本願では(D)成分として水系増粘剤を含めることができる。(D)成分を含むと乳化が安定する点で好ましい。(D)成分としては、例えば、(ジメチルアクリルアミド/アクリロイルジメチルタウリンNa)クロスポリマー、(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸アルキル(C10-30))クロスポリマー、(アクリル酸ヒドロキシエチル/アクリロイルジメチルタウリンNa)コポリマー等が挙げられる。中でも特にアクリル酸系ポリマーからなる水系増粘剤が好ましい。
市販品としてはSIMULGELTM NS(SEPPIC S.A.社製)が挙げられる。
本発明に係る水中油型唇用化粧料は水を含む。水は特に限定されず、イオン交換水、水道水等で良い。
(E)水の配合量は水中油型唇用化粧料に全量に対して25~70質量%が好ましい。配合量が25質量%未満であると使用時のなめらかさが損なわれることがあり、70質量%を超えると相対的に他の成分の配合量が減り効果が得られなくなる。
本発明に係る水中油型唇用化粧料にはさらに(F)水性染料を含むことが出来る。本発明にかかる水中油型唇用化粧料では唇に塗布される化粧料に入ったままの状態ではなく、色素が唇に染み込んで色を出すことで二次付着レス効果が得られるため水性染料が使用される。
(F)成分としては、例えばアシッドフクシン、黄色4号、黄5、青1、赤227、緑3、赤401、赤504、橙205、黄203、緑201、紫201、紫401、黒401、黄205等が挙げられる。
また、市販品としてはUNICERT Yellow 08006-J(センシエントテクノロジーズジャパン社製)、FD&C Green No.3(センシエントテクノロジーズジャパン社製)などがある。
本発明に係る水中油型唇用化粧料にはさらに(G)保湿剤を含むことが出来る。本発明にかかる水中油型唇用化粧料では水の揮発により乾燥感を感じることがあり、保湿剤を配合することでこれを抑制することができる。
アルキレンオキシド誘導体は、特に限定されるものではないが、好ましくは下記式(1)で表される化合物である。
実施例における各評価は以下の通りに行った。
(1)外観
(外観の評価方法)
試料作製後の外観均一性について下記採点基準に基づいて5段階評価をした。そのスコア平均値により下記評価基準で判定した。
(スコア)
3点:均一
2点:やや不均一な箇所がある
1点:不均一
(評価基準)
A:スコア平均値2.0点以上
B:スコア平均値1.5点以上2.0点未満
C:スコア平均値1.5点未満
(2)二次付着レス性
(二次付着レスの評価方法)
10名の専門パネルによる実使用性試験を行った。試料を唇に塗布した際の二次付着レス効果について下記採点基準に基づいて5段階評価をした。そのスコア平均値により下記評価基準で判定した。
(スコア)
3点:高い二次付着レス効果を感じる
2点:二次付着効果レスを感じる
1点:二次付着効果レスを感じない
(評価基準)
A:スコア平均値2.0点以上
B:スコア平均値1.5点以上2.0点未満
C:スコア平均値1.5点未満
(3)ツヤ感
(ツヤ感の評価方法)
10名の専門パネルによる実使用性試験を行った。試料を唇に塗布した際のツヤ感について下記採点基準に基づいて3段階評価をした。そのスコア平均値により下記評価基準で判定した。
(スコア)
3点:適度なツヤを感じる
2点:ツヤが物足りない
1点:ツヤを感じない
(評価基準)
A:スコア平均値2.0点以上
B:スコア平均値1.5点以上2.0点未満
C:スコア平均値1.5点未満
(4)フィット感
(フィット感の評価方法)
10名の専門パネルによる実使用性試験を行った。試料を唇に塗布した際のフィット感について下記採点基準に基づいて3段階評価をした。そのスコア平均値により下記評価基準で判定した。
(スコア)
3点:適度なフィット感を感じる
2点:フィット感が物足りない
1点:フィット感を感じない
(評価基準)
A:スコア平均値2.0点以上
B:スコア平均値1.5点以上2.0点未満
C:スコア平均値1.5点未満
(5)経時でのうるおい感
(経時でのうるおい感の評価方法)
10名の専門パネルによる実使用性試験を行った。試料を唇に塗布後、4時間後の唇のうるおい感について下記採点基準に基づいて3段階評価をした。そのスコア平均値により下記評価基準で判定した。
(スコア)
3点:うるおい感を感じる
2点:うるおい感が物足りない
1点:うるおい感を感じない
(評価基準)
A:スコア平均値2.0点以上
B:スコア平均値1.5点以上2.0点未満
C:スコア平均値1.5点未満
なお、被膜形成剤の炭化水素系溶媒として用いられているイソドデカンは揮発性であり、水添ポリイソブテンは不揮発性である。試験例3-1,3-4を比較しても、どちらの溶媒を用いても優れた化粧料を得ることができるが、揮発性のイソドデカンを用いた場合にはしっかりとした被膜が形成され、不揮発性の水添ポリイソブテンを用いた場合には柔軟性のあるしっとりとしたゲル状被膜が形成された。
また、試験例3-2,3-3を比較すると、特に炭化水素系ポリマー量が化粧料中0.5質量%以上で優れた使用感が得られることが理解される。
さらに詳細な検討の結果、炭化水素系ポリマーの化粧料中の配合量は、0.5~10質量%が好ましく、特に好ましくは1~7質量%であることが明らかとなった。
また、炭化水素系ポリマー及び炭化水素系溶媒からなる被膜形成剤の化粧料中の配合量は、5~30質量%が好ましい。
なお、被膜形成剤中の炭化水素系溶媒は、製造性、及び塗布時の延展性の観点から50~99質量部であることが好ましい。
処方例1:液状口紅
成分 配合量(質量%)
イオン交換水 残部
1,3-ブチレングリコール 7.0
セテス-20 0.5
PEG-60水添ヒマシ油 2.0
エチレンプロピレンコポリマーとイソドデカン 20.0
水添ポリイソブテン 3.0
ジメチコン(5000CS) 28.0
エタノール 5.0
アシッドフクシン 0.03
黄色4号 0.03
(ジメチルアクリルアミド/アクリロイルジメチルタウリンNa)クロスポリマー
0.05
(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸アルキル(C10‐30))クロスポリマー
0.1
(アクリル酸ヒドロキシエチル/アクリロイルジメチルタウリンNa)コポリマー
0.9
水酸化カリウム 0.04
ベントナイト 0.8
PEG/PPG-36/41ジメチルエーテル 1.0
イザヨイバラ果実エキス 0.1
ナイアシンアミド 0.1
Claims (11)
- 水中油型の唇用化粧料において、以下の(A)~(E)の成分を含有することを特徴とする水中油型唇用化粧料。
(A)粘度が100CS~50000CSのジメチルシリコーン油
(B)(A)と相溶しない炭化水素系ポリマーを含む被膜形成剤
(C)HLB12以上の非シリコーン系界面活性剤
(D)水系増粘剤
(E)水 - 請求項1記載の化粧料において、
前記被膜形成剤の炭化水素系ポリマーは、化粧料中に0.5~10質量%であることを特徴とする水中油型唇用化粧料。 - 請求項2記載の化粧料において、被膜形成剤は炭化水素系ポリマーを溶解する炭化水素系溶媒を含むことを特徴とする水中油型唇用化粧料。
- 請求項3記載の化粧料において、炭化水素系溶媒は、被膜形成剤100重量部に対し50~99重量部であることを特徴とする水中油型唇用化粧料。
- 請求項1~4に記載の水中油型唇用化粧料において、(A)~(E)の成分の配合量が、
(A)粘度が100CS~50000CSのジメチルシリコーン油 10~40質量%
(B)(A)と相溶しない炭化水素系ポリマー及び炭化水素系溶媒を含む被膜形成剤 5~30質量%
(C)HLB12以上の非シリコーン系界面活性剤 1~4質量%
(D)水系増粘剤 0.01~5質量%
(E)水 25~70質量%、
であることを特徴とする水中油型唇用化粧料。 - 請求項1~5のいずれかに記載の水中油型唇用化粧料において、(B)炭化水素系ポリマーがエチレンモノマーユニット及び/またはスチレンモノマーユニットから選択されることを特徴とする水中油型唇用化粧料。
- 請求項1~6のいずれかに記載の水中油型唇用化粧料において、(D)水系増粘剤がアクリル酸系ポリマーよりなる水系増粘剤であることを特徴とする水中油型唇用化粧料。
- 請求項1~7のいずれかに記載の水中油型唇用化粧料において、顔料を含まないことを特徴とする水中油型唇用化粧料。
- 請求項1~8のいずれかに記載の水中油型唇用化粧料において、(F)水性染料を0.01~1.5質量%含むことを特徴とする水中油型唇用化粧料。
- 請求項1~9のいずれかに記載の水中油型唇用化粧料において、さらに(G)保湿剤を含むことを特徴とする水中油型唇用化粧料。
- 請求項10に記載の水中油型唇用化粧料において、(G)保湿剤が下記一般式(1)で示され、分子量が1000~5000のアルキレンオキシド誘導体を0.1~5質量%配合することを特徴とする水中油型唇用化粧料。
オキシアルキレン基とオキシエチレン基とがブロック状に付加していてもランダム状に付加していてもよく、R1およびR2は同一もしくは異なっていてもよい炭素数1~4の炭化水素基または水素原子であり、R1およびR2の炭化水素基数に対する水素原子数の割合が0.15以下である)。
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JP2004168759A (ja) * | 2002-10-28 | 2004-06-17 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 口紅用組成物 |
JP2013537214A (ja) * | 2010-09-20 | 2013-09-30 | ロレアル | アルキルセルロースを含む水性化粧品組成物 |
JP2015182971A (ja) * | 2014-03-24 | 2015-10-22 | 株式会社コーセー | 水中油乳化型口唇化粧料 |
CN110638691A (zh) * | 2019-11-14 | 2020-01-03 | 广州那比昂生物科技有限公司 | 一种漆光镜面持色唇釉及其制备方法 |
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JP2004168759A (ja) * | 2002-10-28 | 2004-06-17 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 口紅用組成物 |
JP2013537214A (ja) * | 2010-09-20 | 2013-09-30 | ロレアル | アルキルセルロースを含む水性化粧品組成物 |
JP2015182971A (ja) * | 2014-03-24 | 2015-10-22 | 株式会社コーセー | 水中油乳化型口唇化粧料 |
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