Classifications

• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
  • C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
  • C07C235/00—Carboxylic acid amides, the carbon skeleton of the acid part being further substituted by oxygen atoms
  • C07C235/02—Carboxylic acid amides, the carbon skeleton of the acid part being further substituted by oxygen atoms having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms and singly-bound oxygen atoms bound to the same carbon skeleton
  • C07C235/04—Carboxylic acid amides, the carbon skeleton of the acid part being further substituted by oxygen atoms having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms and singly-bound oxygen atoms bound to the same carbon skeleton the carbon skeleton being acyclic and saturated
  • C07C235/08—Carboxylic acid amides, the carbon skeleton of the acid part being further substituted by oxygen atoms having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms and singly-bound oxygen atoms bound to the same carbon skeleton the carbon skeleton being acyclic and saturated having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to an acyclic carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by singly-bound oxygen atoms
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
  • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/42—Amides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
  • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
  • A61P17/02—Drugs for dermatological disorders for treating wounds, ulcers, burns, scars, keloids, or the like
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
  • A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B01—PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL PROCESSES OR APPARATUS IN GENERAL
  • B01J—CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROCESSES, e.g. CATALYSIS OR COLLOID CHEMISTRY; THEIR RELEVANT APPARATUS
  • B01J31/00—Catalysts comprising hydrides, coordination complexes or organic compounds
  • B01J31/02—Catalysts comprising hydrides, coordination complexes or organic compounds containing organic compounds or metal hydrides
  • B01J31/0234—Nitrogen-, phosphorus-, arsenic- or antimony-containing compounds
  • B01J31/0235—Nitrogen containing compounds
  • B01J31/0244—Nitrogen containing compounds with nitrogen contained as ring member in aromatic compounds or moieties, e.g. pyridine
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
  • C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
  • C07C231/00—Preparation of carboxylic acid amides
  • C07C231/02—Preparation of carboxylic acid amides from carboxylic acids or from esters, anhydrides, or halides thereof by reaction with ammonia or amines
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
  • C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
  • C07C233/00—Carboxylic acid amides
  • C07C233/01—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms
  • C07C233/16—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by singly-bound oxygen atoms
  • C07C233/17—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by singly-bound oxygen atoms with the substituted hydrocarbon radical bound to the nitrogen atom of the carboxamide group by an acyclic carbon atom
  • C07C233/18—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by singly-bound oxygen atoms with the substituted hydrocarbon radical bound to the nitrogen atom of the carboxamide group by an acyclic carbon atom having the carbon atom of the carboxamide group bound to a hydrogen atom or to a carbon atom of an acyclic saturated carbon skeleton
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
  • C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
  • C07C235/00—Carboxylic acid amides, the carbon skeleton of the acid part being further substituted by oxygen atoms
  • C07C235/70—Carboxylic acid amides, the carbon skeleton of the acid part being further substituted by oxygen atoms having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups and doubly-bound oxygen atoms bound to the same carbon skeleton
  • C07C235/72—Carboxylic acid amides, the carbon skeleton of the acid part being further substituted by oxygen atoms having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups and doubly-bound oxygen atoms bound to the same carbon skeleton with the carbon atoms of the carboxamide groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms
  • C07C235/74—Carboxylic acid amides, the carbon skeleton of the acid part being further substituted by oxygen atoms having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups and doubly-bound oxygen atoms bound to the same carbon skeleton with the carbon atoms of the carboxamide groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms of a saturated carbon skeleton
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
  • C07D—HETEROCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
  • C07D309/00—Heterocyclic compounds containing six-membered rings having one oxygen atom as the only ring hetero atom, not condensed with other rings
  • C07D309/02—Heterocyclic compounds containing six-membered rings having one oxygen atom as the only ring hetero atom, not condensed with other rings having no double bonds between ring members or between ring members and non-ring members
  • C07D309/08—Heterocyclic compounds containing six-membered rings having one oxygen atom as the only ring hetero atom, not condensed with other rings having no double bonds between ring members or between ring members and non-ring members with hetero atoms or with carbon atoms having three bonds to hetero atoms with at the most one bond to halogen, e.g. ester or nitrile radicals, directly attached to ring carbon atoms
  • C07D309/10—Oxygen atoms
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
  • C07H—SUGARS; DERIVATIVES THEREOF; NUCLEOSIDES; NUCLEOTIDES; NUCLEIC ACIDS
  • C07H1/00—Processes for the preparation of sugar derivatives
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
  • C07H—SUGARS; DERIVATIVES THEREOF; NUCLEOSIDES; NUCLEOTIDES; NUCLEIC ACIDS
  • C07H15/00—Compounds containing hydrocarbon or substituted hydrocarbon radicals directly attached to hetero atoms of saccharide radicals
  • C07H15/02—Acyclic radicals, not substituted by cyclic structures
  • C07H15/04—Acyclic radicals, not substituted by cyclic structures attached to an oxygen atom of the saccharide radical
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/591—Mixtures of compounds not provided for by any of the codes A61K2800/592 - A61K2800/596

Definitions

• the invention provides hydroxy-substituted sphingolipids, the preparation and use thereof, and also cosmetic formulations of which they are a constituent.
• the purpose of care cosmetics is to maintain the impression of an external youthful appearance, for example that of the skin and hair.
• existing damage to the skin such as irregular pigmentation or wrinkling, can be corrected by a concealing powder or cream.
• Another approach is to protect the skin from environmental influences that result in permanent damage and thus ageing of the skin. The idea is thus to intervene preventively and thereby delay the ageing process.
• the most important function of the skin is to protect the body against the uncontrolled escape of water on the one hand while protecting against penetration by harmful chemicals or bacteria and by solar radiation on the other. Long-term exposure of human skin to sunlight can lead to the development of light-induced ageing of the skin and/or pigmentation disorders.
• UVB radiation 280-320 nm
• FR2855049 discloses 6-hydroxy-sphingenin-based ceramides for strengthening of the skin barrier.
• FR2874610 discloses N-dihydroxyalkyl hydroxyalkanamide derivatives and the use thereof in cosmetics.
• the object of the invention was to provide substances that reduce signs of ageing caused by solar irradiation. Description of the invention
• the present invention accordingly provides certain hydroxy-substituted sphingolipids and also the preparation and use thereof.
• the invention further provides cosmetic formulations comprising said hydroxy-substituted sphingolipids.
• An advantage of the sphingolipids of the invention is the protective effects thereof against DNA damage, in particular UV-induced damage, in the skin in particular.
• Another advantage of the sphingolipids of the invention is the thickening effect thereof, particularly in cosmetic formulations.
• the present invention thus provides a sphingolipid of the general formula I where
• R 1 is a hydrocarbon radical having 2 to 54, preferably 2 to 30, more preferably 2 to 18, carbon atoms that is substituted with at least one group selected from -OH and -COOH, and that optionally may be interrupted by at least one -0-,
• R 2 is H, phosphocholine, serine, ethanolamine or a sugar, preferably a sugar or H, more preferably H,
• the sphingolipid of the general formula I has a plurality of stereogenic centres, all of which are covered by the general formula I. Unless otherwise stated, all stated percentages (%) are percentages by mass.
• R 1 is preferably selected from a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 54, preferably 2 to 30, more preferably 2 to 18, carbon atoms that is substituted with at least one group selected from -
• OH and -COOH preferably and R 2 , Y are H, particularly preferably and X is CH2-HCOH.
• the alkyl radical of R 1 preferably is straight chained.
• R 1 is preferably selected from a hydrocarbon radical having 2 to 54, preferably 2 to 30, more preferably 2 to 18, carbon atoms that is substituted at the co-position with at least one group selected from -OH and -COOH, preferably and R 2 , Y are H, particularly preferably and
• X is CH2-HCOH.
• the hydrocarbon radical of R 1 preferably is straight chained.
• Particularly preferred sphingolipids of the invention are selected from hydroxy butyroyl phytosphingosine succinoyl phytosphingosine gluconoyl phytosphingosine lactobionoyl phytosphingosine
• the present invention further provides an inventive sphingolipid for the use in therapy, in particular for the use in prophylaxis, of cell damage, preferably of cell damage induced by UV radiation, in particular skin cell damage, the cell damage in accordance with the invention preferably being DNA damage.
• the sphingolipids of the invention can also be employed in purely cosmetic applications, thus the present invention further provides the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of at least one of the sphingolipids of the invention for the prevention of skin ageing caused by UV radiation.
• the sphingolipids of the invention can be readily incorporated into cosmetic formulations.
• the present invention accordingly further provides a cosmetic formulation comprising at least one sphingolipid of the invention, preferably in an amount of 0.02% by weight to 1.50% by weight, preferably of 0.03% by weight to 1.00% by weight, more preferably of 0.05% by weight to 0.50% by weight, the percentages by weight being based on the total formulation.
• the cosmetic formulations of the invention are in particular formulations for sun protection and therefore preferably contain UV light protection filters.
• Preferred formulations of the invention are therefore those comprising at least one sphingolipid of the invention, and at least one UV light protection filter substance.
• the UV light protection filters used may be for example organic substances capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and then re-emitting the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat.
• UVB filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble UVB light protection filters include:
• 3-benzylidenecamphor and derivatives thereof for example 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, for example 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino)benzoate, esters of cinnamic acid, for example 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4- methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (Octocrylene), esters of salicylic acid, for example 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, derivatives of benzophenone, for example 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4- methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, est
• Suitable typical UVA light protection filters include in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane, for example 1-(4'-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1 ,3-dione or 1-phenyl-3-(4'- isopropylphenyl)propane-1 ,3-dione. It is of course also possible to use mixtures of UV-A and UV-B filters.
• insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminium oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate.
• the particles here should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, e.g. between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may be spherical in shape, although it is also possible to use particles that are ellipsoidal in shape or have a shape that deviates in some other way from spherical.
• a relatively new class of light protection filters is that of micronized organic pigments, for example 2,2'-methylenebis ⁇ 6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3- tetramethylbutyl)phenol ⁇ having a particle size of ⁇ 200 nm, which is obtainable for example as a 50% aqueous dispersion.
• micronized organic pigments for example 2,2'-methylenebis ⁇ 6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3- tetramethylbutyl)phenol ⁇ having a particle size of ⁇ 200 nm, which is obtainable for example as a 50% aqueous dispersion.
• UV light protection filters can be found in the review by P. Finkel in SOFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).
• said formulations preferably comprise lipophilic, hydrophobic UV light protection filter substances, in particular triazine derivatives.
• UV-B filters the UV light protection filter substances - 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate, 2,4-bis ⁇ [4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl ⁇ -6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine, dioctylbutylamidotriazone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, di-2- ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate, 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy)]-1 ,3,5-triazine,
• UV-A filters used are preferably 1-(4'-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1 ,3-dione, 1- phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propane-1 ,3-dione.
• UV-A filters are 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356- 09-1), which is sold by DSM under the Parsol® 1789 brand and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020, and hydroxybenzophenones in accordance with DE 102004027475, particularly preferably hexyl 2-(4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (also: aminobenzophenone), available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF.
• UV filter substances are further so-called broadband filters, i.e. filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
• broadband filters i.e. filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
• preference is given to using 2,2'- methylenebis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from Ciba Chemikalien GmbH, and 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl- 6-[2-methyl-3-[1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]disiloxanyl]propyl]phenol (CAS No.: 155633-
• the cosmetic formulations of the invention comprise UV light protection filters preferably in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the overall formulation.
• the cosmetic formulations of the invention comprise a combination of two or more different UV light protection filters.
• the weight ratio of these filters is preferably 1 :2 to 1 :4.
• the formulations of the invention can further comprise at least one additional component selected from the following group: emollients, emulsifiers, thickeners/viscosity regulators/stabilizers, antioxidants, hydrotropes (or polyols), solids and fillers, film formers, pearlescence additives, deodorant and antiperspirant active substances, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, preservatives, conditioning agents, perfumes, dyes, odour absorbers, cosmetic active substances, care additives, superfatting agents, solvents.
• the present invention further provides a method for preparing sphingolipids, in particular for preparing the sphingolipids of the invention, comprising the method steps of I) providing a first component, at least a lysosphingolipid of the general formula II
• R 2b is H, phosphocholine, serine, ethanolamine or a sugar, preferably a sugar or H, more preferably H, and
• R 1b is a hydrocarbon radical having 2 to 54, preferably 2 to 30, more preferably 2 to 18, carbon atoms that is substituted with at least one group selected from -OH and -COOH, and that optionally may be interrupted by at least one -0-,
• Y b is selected from -OH and H
• the method of the invention is preferably characterized in that method step III) is carried out within a temperature range from 40°C to 95°C, preferably from 50°C to 80°C, more preferably from 60°C to 70°C.
• the present invention further provides an alternative method for preparing sphingolipids, in particular for preparing the sphingolipids of the invention, comprising the method steps of
• R 1b is a hydrocarbon radical having 2 to 54, preferably 2 to 30, more preferably 2 to 18, carbon atoms that is substituted with at least one group selected from -OH and -COOH, and that optionally may be interrupted by at least one -0-,
• Y b is selected from -OH and H
• the alternative method of the invention is preferably characterized in that in method step C) the coupling reagent used is at least one selected from the group comprising, preferably consisting of, dicyclohexylcarbodiimide, diisopropylcarbodiimide, 1-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)-3-ethylcarbodiimide hydrochloride, N-cyclohexyl-N'-(2'-morpholinoethyl)carbodiimide metho-p-toluenesulfonate, N- benzyl-N'-3' dimethylaminopropylcarbodiimide hydrochloride, 1-ethyl-3-(3- dimethylaminopropyl)carbodiimide, N-ethylcarbodiimide hydrochloride and carbonyldiimidazole, particularly preferably dicyclohexylcarbodiimide and diisopropylcarbodiimide.
• the alternative method of the invention is preferably characterized in that in method step C) at least one catalyst selected from the group comprising, preferably consisting of, N- ethyldiisopropylamine, trialkylamines, pyridine, 4-dimethylaminopyridine and hydroxybenzotriazole, in particular hydroxybenzotriazole, is used.
• the method of the invention is preferably characterized in that method step C) is carried out within a temperature range from 40°C to 95°C, preferably from 50°C to 80°C, more preferably from 55°C to 65°C, Methods preferred according to the invention preferably result in the sphingolipids described above as preferred according to the invention.
• Figure 1 ROS production after UV irradiation
• Figure 2 DNA damage after UV irradiation
• Figure 3 Increase in ITA° after application of the test formulations for two, four and eight weeks
• Figure 4 Increase in L* after application of the test formulations for two, four and eight weeks
• Figure 5 Decrease in skin roughness after application of the test formulations for two, four and eight weeks
• Phytosphingosine and g-butyrolactone are dissolved in methanol in a 1 :1 molar ratio. The mixture is reacted at 65°C until phytosphingosine can no longer be detected. Cooling to room temperature affords crystals of 4-hydroxybutyroyl phytosphingosine, which were filtered off with suction and washed with a 1 :1 THF/water mixture. The yield is > 80% and the purity is > 90%.
• Phytosphingosine and e-caprolactone are dissolved in methanol in a 1 :1 molar ratio. The mixture is reacted at 65°C until phytosphingosine can no longer be detected. Cooling to room temperature affords crystals of 6-hydroxyhexanoyl phytosphingosine, which were filtered off with suction and washed with a 1 :1 THF/water mixture. The yield is > 80% and the purity is > 90%.
• Example 1c (not according to the invention): 3-Hydroxypropioyl phytosphingosine Phytosphingosine and b-propiolactone are dissolved in methanol in a 1 :1 molar ratio.
• the mixture is reacted at 65°C until phytosphingosine can no longer be detected. Cooling to room temperature affords crystals of 3-hydroxypropioyl phytosphingosine, which were filtered off with suction and washed with a 1 :1 THF/water mixture. The yield is > 80% and the purity is > 90%.
• Phytosphingosine and succinic anhydride are dissolved in methanol in a 1 :1 molar ratio. The mixture is reacted at 65°C until phytosphingosine is no longer detected. Cooling to room temperature affords crystals of Succinoyl phytosphingosine, which were filtered off with suction and washed with a 1 :1 THF/water mixture. The yield is > 80% and the purity is > 90%.
• Phytosphingosine and d-gluconolactone are dissolved in methanol in a 1 :1 molar ratio. The mixture is reacted at 65°C until phytosphingosine can no longer be detected.
• the product is filtered off with the aid of vacuum and washed with ethanol. After drying to constant mass, the yield is > 80% and the purity is > 90%.
• Example 4 Lactobionoyl phytosphingosine 71 .66 g of lactobionic acid and 75.44 g of phytosphingosine are dissolved in dimethylformamide
• Example 5 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-hydroxybutyroyl phytosphingosine Phytosphingosine and D-pantolactone are dissolved in ethanol in a 1 :1 molar ratio. The mixture is reacted at 60°C for 8 h. The product is then crystallized by cooling slowly to 10°C. It is then filtered off and dried. The yield is > 80% and the purity is > 90%.
• Sphinganine and D-pantolactone are dissolved in ethanol in a 1 :1 molar ratio. The mixture is reacted at 60°C for 8 h. The product is then crystallized by cooling slowly to 10°C. It is then filtered off and dried. The yield is > 80% and the purity is > 90%.
• ROS reactive oxygen species
• ROS Reactive oxygen species
• ROS reactive organic species
• the medium was removed and replaced by assay medium, the fluorescent probe (2,7-dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate (10 pM 2,7-DCDHF-DA in assay medium) was added and the cells were incubated at 37°C for 30 minutes. The cells were then washed with PBS solution and irradiated with 100 mJ/cm 2 UVB + UVA (+ 0.7 J/cm 2 ) without compounds or references.
• the lamp used was a SOL500 solar simulator with H2 filter (Dr. Honle, AG). After irradiation, the cells were incubated for 30 minutes. An unirradiated control and the conditions without sample (background noise) were carried out in parallel.
• the intensity of fluorescence of the metabolized sample (DCF) was proportional to the formation of ROS. ROS production was therefore expressed as the relative intensity of fluorescence.
• ROS reactive oxygen species
• 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-hydroxybutyroyl sphinganine shows a protective effect of 22 % at a concentration of 5 pM
• 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-hydroxybutyroyl phytosphingosine shows a protective effect of 38 % at a concentration of 5 pM.
• Ceramide 3 (also known as Ceramide NP) shows a protective effect of 4 % at a concentration of 10 pM
• 3-hydroxypropioyl phytosphingosine shows a protective effect of 5 % at a concentration of 10 pM.
• DNA damage and repair 6-well plates were seeded with the keratinocytes, which were incubated for 48 hours in culture medium, with the medium replenished after 24 hours.
• the medium was then replaced by culture medium containing the test compounds or the references (0.3 mM control) or in which they were absent (control) and the cells were incubated for 24 hours.
• the culture medium was removed and assay medium again added and the cells were irradiated with 250 mJ/cm 2 UVB + UVA (+ 1 .6 J/cm 2 ) in the absence of the compounds.
• the lamp used was a
• the culture supernatants were discarded and the cells were washed with phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) prior to analysis.
• PBS phosphate-buffered saline
• the cells were trypsinized and counted and the supernatant was removed after centrifugation.
• the cells were then washed with PBS solution and suspended in the same PBS solution so as to achieve a cell concentration of 1 c 10 5 cells/ml.
• the cell suspension was then mixed with molten (37°C) 1% agarose gel of low melting point and pipetted onto the Comet microscope slides (duplicate analysis for each condition).
• the microscope slides were immersed in a freshly prepared alkaline solution (200 mM NaOH containing 1 mM EDTA, pH > 13) on an electrophoresis support.
• the gel electrophoresis was carried out at 21 volts for 30 minutes.
• the Comet microscope slides were washed twice with water, each time for 5 minutes, then washed with 70% ethanol for 5 minutes and air-dried at 37°C for 15 minutes.
• each dried sample was stained with a DNA intercalating fluorescent dye (SYBR Green solution).
• SYBR Green solution DNA intercalating fluorescent dye
• the DNA-bound SYBR® Green emits green light.
• the fluorescence is limited to the nucleoid: Undamaged DNA is supercoiled and accordingly does not migrate very substantially from the nucleoid under the influence of an electric current. If DNA damage has occurred, the alkali treatment causes the DNA to roll up, releasing fragments that migrate outside the cell when exposed to an electric field. The negatively charged DNA migrates to the anode, the extrusion length being proportional to the relaxation of the supercoiled structure, which is an indicator of damage. When alkaline electrophoresis conditions are employed, the distribution of the DNA between the tail and comet head can be used to determine the extent of the DNA damage.
• DNA damage caused by the irradiation of the human epidermal keratinocytes with UV light is discernible.
• the tiron positive control is able, by virtue of its known antioxidant properties, to protect against DNA damage and accordingly shows an approximately 60% protective effect against DNA damage after UV irradiation.
• the substances of the invention likewise show a protective effect of more than 60%. This effect is not known for sphingolipids/ceramides and also cannot be demonstrated for the pure sphingoid base phytosphingosine (PS) in this test.
• 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-hydroxybutyroyl sphinganine shows a protective effect of 24 % at a concentration of 5 pM
• 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-hydroxybutyroyl phytosphingosine shows a protective effect of 39 % at a concentration of 2 pM.
• Ceramide 3 (also known as Ceramide NP) shows a protective effect of 12 % at a concentration of 10 pM
• 3-hydroxypropioyl phytosphingosine shows a protective effect of 13 % at a concentration of 10 pM.
• Example 7 In-vivo data For the in-vivo study, 24 test subjects (male and female) with sun-stressed skin were recruited. In order to ensure sun-stressed skin, this study was carried out in the period from September to November. The assumption was that skin shows the greatest level of sun stress at the end of the summer season.
• test subjects received either two different test formulations, which they applied to one forearm each, or one test formulation which was applied to one forearm with the second forearm remaining untreated (control).
• the test formulations were a vehicle and a formulation containing 0.1 % of hydroxybutyroyl phytosphingosine (hydroxybutyroyl PS).
• the various test combinations were assigned to the test subjects randomly.
• test formulation The composition of the test formulation is shown in Table 1 .
• the test subjects applied the test formulations for a period of 8 weeks twice daily to the inside and outside of in each case one forearm.
• the following measurements on the forearms were carried out before the start of application and after two, four and eight weeks:
• Skin roughness This parameter was determined by means of a special camera on the inside of the forearm (Visioscan VC 98, Courage & Khazaka). This camera records a digital black-and- white image of the skin. The grayscale distribution of the image can be used to determine the skin roughness.
• Density of the dermis The density of the dermis was determined by ultrasound on the outside of the forearm (SkinLab Combo, Cortex Technologies, Denmark). For this, a special probe transmits an ultrasound signal to the skin and records the reflection. This reflection can be used to determine a value for the skin density. A reduced skin density is shown in particular by areas of skin that have been very strongly exposed to sunlight.
• Figure 3 shows the increase in ITA° after application of the test formulations for two, four and eight weeks.
• Figure 4 shows the increase in L* after application of the test formulations for two, four and eight weeks.
• Figure 5 shows the decrease in skin roughness after application of the test formulations for two, four and eight weeks. From Figure 5 it can be seen that the decrease in skin roughness was most pronounced with the test formulation containing hydroxybutyroyl phytosphingosine, both in comparison to the untreated control and particularly in comparison with the vehicle. This supports the skin colour measurement results: a characteristic feature of sun-stressed skin is that the roughness of the skin is increased. This roughness likewise decreases towards autumn as a consequence of normal skin regeneration. Because hydroxybutyroyl phytosphingosine aids the skin renewal cycle, the decrease in skin roughness is more pronounced than with the vehicle formulation or the untreated control.
• Figure 6 shows the increase in skin density after application of the test formulations for two, four and eight weeks.

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