WO2022095292A1 - 一种具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物及其编织方法 - Google Patents

一种具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物及其编织方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022095292A1
WO2022095292A1 PCT/CN2021/075028 CN2021075028W WO2022095292A1 WO 2022095292 A1 WO2022095292 A1 WO 2022095292A1 CN 2021075028 W CN2021075028 W CN 2021075028W WO 2022095292 A1 WO2022095292 A1 WO 2022095292A1
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Prior art keywords
yarn
fabric
fabric body
layer
woven
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PCT/CN2021/075028
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English (en)
French (fr)
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罗文华
陈官峰
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东莞超盈纺织有限公司
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Publication of WO2022095292A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022095292A1/zh

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D02G3/045—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from artificial or synthetic material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the technical field of knitted garment fabrics and weaving, in particular to a lace fabric and a weaving method with good permeability and no detachment.
  • Lace fabrics are more and more popular among garment designers and wearers because of their permeability, fancy flexibility and vividness.
  • the base fabric structure of most traditional lace fabrics is a braided structure, it is easy to detach in the direction of reverse weaving in the warp direction, which seriously affects its application in the field of clothing. Can this problem be effectively improved or resolved? According to relevant information, some manufacturers have made some improvements in production technology or conditions:
  • the invention provides a lace knitted fabric with good appearance and good hand feeling.
  • the contact portion between the braided wire and the first insertion wire and the contact portion between the braided wire and the second insertion wire are adhered to prevent deformation of the lattice.
  • the invention proposes a knitting method of multi-comb warp knitting machine, adding anti-separation loops on the basis of original loops, increasing the tightness of the original loops,
  • the connection points of each coil are staggered or overlapped, so that the ground mesh coil has a strong cohesion force, and at the same time, it is more tightly cohesive with the flower yarn that forms the pattern structure. After the damage, the ground yarn coil and the flower yarn are not easy to come off.
  • the fabric body of the invention has a main body woven with two filament bars and two spandex bars, and the main body has a flower yarn
  • the card bar is a pattern layer woven by elastic yarns or filaments with a weft-inserted structure or a loop-forming structure.
  • the main body is also provided with an elastic weft opening layer, a warp opening layer and a compact resistance layer. It has the advantages of good stretching performance, free stretching in all directions and not easy to fall off after cutting.
  • a pair of filaments and a pair of spandex are used to jointly knit a chain structure to achieve the purpose of preventing detachment, but the two pairs of yarns are combined in the actual warping, feeding and threading links. If the quantity is too large, the time-consuming will inevitably increase, which is not conducive to production efficiency and production cost.
  • the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a lace fabric with good permeability and no detachment and a weaving method thereof.
  • a lace fabric with good permeability and no detachment comprising a fabric body, the fabric body is at least interlaced with 5 groups of yarns of Y1 yarn, Y2 yarn, 3 yarn, Y4 yarn and Y5 yarn woven; of which:
  • Y1 yarn and Y2 yarn are woven to form the jacquard jacquard layer of the fabric body
  • Y3 yarn is woven to form the pattern layer of the fabric body
  • Y4 yarn and Y5 yarn are woven to form the elasticity that provides warp stretchability to the fabric body.
  • layer, the knitting yarns of the loop-forming jacquard layer, the pattern layer and the elastic layer are pulled together to form an anti-separation structure on the fabric body. Holes of different sizes.
  • the Y1 yarn and Y2 yarn are jacquard yarns, specifically filaments or composite yarns, the weaving structure is a warp-flat structure, and the yarn laying direction is opposite, and the yarn laying numbers of the Y1 yarn and the Y2 yarn are 1 respectively. -0/1-2//, 1-2/1-0// or 0-1/2-1//, 2-1/0-1//.
  • the Y3 yarn is a flower yarn, specifically a filament or a composite yarn, the weaving structure is a 1-needle weft-insertion structure, and the yarn number is 0-0/1-1//.
  • the Y4 yarn and Y5 yarn are spandex, the weaving structure is a 1-pin weft insertion structure, and the yarn laying direction is opposite, and the yarn laying numbers of the Y4 yarn and the Y5 yarn are 0-0/1-1//, respectively. 1-1/0-0// or 1-1/0-0//, 0-0/1-1//.
  • the composite yarn is composed of a core filament and a covering filament, the covering filament covers the core filament, the core filament is spandex or elastic filament other than spandex, and the covering filament is nylon, polyester or other than nylon and polyester of no elastic wire.
  • the composite yarn is made by a machine wrapping process or an empty wrapping process.
  • the covered yarn is FDY or DTY
  • the twist is 550-650
  • the draft ratio of spandex is 2.5-3.5
  • the empty wrapping process is adopted.
  • the covered yarn is DTY
  • the network points are 140/m–180/m
  • the spandex draft ratio is 2.7–3.3.
  • the linear density is between 10-150D; when the Y1 yarn and Y2 yarn are composite yarns, the linear density is between 20-150D, wherein the covering of the composite yarn
  • the linear density of the wire is between 10-100D, and the linear density of the core wire is between 10-70D.
  • the linear density is between 20-900D; when the Y3 yarn is a composite yarn, the linear density is between 30-900D of different yarns.
  • the linear density of the covering silk in the composite yarn is between 20-850D, and the linear density of the core silk is between 10-70D.
  • the Y4 yarn and Y5 yarn are spandex, and the linear density is between 40-1200D.
  • a weaving method of a lace fabric with good permeability and non-detachment which adopts Y1 yarn, Y2 yarn, 3 yarn, Y4 yarn and Y5 yarn, a total of 5 groups of yarns are interlaced and woven to form a fabric body, in:
  • Y1 yarn and Y2 yarn are woven to form the jacquard jacquard layer of the fabric body in a warp-flat structure with opposite numbers of laying yarns, and a number of holes of different sizes are formed to make the fabric body transparent;
  • Y3 yarn is a cluster of floral yarn combs, which is woven with a 1-needle weft-inserted structure to form the pattern layer of the fabric body;
  • Y4 yarn and Y5 yarn are woven with 1-needle weft-insertion structure, and the opposite direction of laying yarn is woven to form an elastic layer that provides warp stretchability for the fabric body;
  • the knitting yarns of the looped jacquard layer, the pattern layer and the elastic layer are pulled together to form an anti-separation structure for the fabric body.
  • the invention makes the fabric have good permeability through the holes of different sizes in the jacquard jacquard layer, and because the warp and flat structure is changed in the actual weaving process, the mutual pull between the loops woven by different yarns makes the fabric It avoids the possibility of detachment; combined with the various patterns formed by the flower yarn and the symmetrical stretching effect of spandex in the warp direction, the final lace fabric will have permeability, non-detachment and stretch. , completely suitable for a wide range of applications in underwear, sportswear, casual wear and other clothing fields.
  • Figure 5 is a schematic diagram of the structure of Y4 yarn.
  • the present invention discloses a lace fabric with good permeability and non-detachment, including a fabric body, the fabric body is composed of Y1 yarn, Y2 yarn, 3 yarn, Y4 yarn Yarn Y5 yarns are made of 5 groups of yarns interlaced with each other. Because each yarn is interlaced with each other, the loops formed by each yarn during the knitting process have a structure of mutual pull, so that the whole has a good anti-separation structure. performance.
  • Y1 yarn and Y2 yarn are woven to form the jacquard jacquard layer of the fabric body
  • Y3 yarn is woven to form the pattern layer of the fabric body
  • Y4 yarn and Y5 yarn are woven to form the elasticity that provides warp stretchability to the fabric body.
  • layer, the knitting yarns of the loop-forming jacquard layer, the pattern layer and the elastic layer are pulled together to form an anti-separation structure on the fabric body. Holes of different sizes improve the permeability of the fabric body.
  • the pattern layer can be woven into different patterns according to the needs, and plays a decorative role.
  • the Y1 yarn and Y2 yarn are jacquard yarns, specifically filaments or composite yarns
  • the weaving structure is a warp-flat structure, and the yarn laying direction is opposite, and the yarn laying numbers of the Y1 yarn and the Y2 yarn are 1 respectively. -0/1-2//, 1-2/1-0// or 0-1/2-1//, 2-1/0-1//.
  • the warp flat structure can be changed warp flat, and holes are formed in the changed parts to ensure the permeability of the fabric body.
  • the Y3 yarn is a flower yarn, specifically a filament or a composite yarn, the weaving structure is a 1-needle weft-insertion structure, and the yarn number is 0-0/1-1//.
  • the Y4 yarn and Y5 yarn are spandex, the weaving structure is a 1-pin weft insertion structure, and the yarn laying direction is opposite, and the yarn laying numbers of the Y4 yarn and the Y5 yarn are 0-0/1-1//, respectively. 1-1/0-0// or 1-1/0-0//, 0-0/1-1//.
  • the yarn on the jacquard bar is designed according to the process, and in the actual weaving process, the warp and flat structure is changed.
  • the pull structure and mutual pull make the fabric avoid the possibility of separation, and the woven holes make the fabric obtain good permeability.
  • the final lace fabric will integrate permeability, non-detachment and stretch.
  • the composite yarn is composed of a core filament and a covering filament, the covering filament covers the core filament, the core filament is spandex or other elastic filaments except spandex, and the covering filament is nylon, polyester or other than nylon and polyester. Other non-elastic wire.
  • the composite yarn is made by a machine wrapping process or an empty wrapping process.
  • the covered yarn is FDY or DTY
  • the twist is 550-650
  • the draft ratio of spandex is 2.5-3.5
  • the empty wrapping process is adopted.
  • the covered yarn is DTY
  • the network points are 140/m–180/m
  • the spandex draft ratio is 2.7–3.3.
  • the linear density is between 10-150D; when the Y1 yarn and Y2 yarn are composite yarns, the linear density is between 20-150D, wherein the covering of the composite yarn
  • the linear density of the wire is between 10-100D, and the linear density of the core wire is between 10-70D.
  • the linear density is between 20-900D; when the Y3 yarn is a composite yarn, the linear density is between 30-900D of different yarns.
  • the linear density of the covering silk in the composite yarn is between 20-850D, and the linear density of the core silk is between 10-70D.
  • the Y4 yarn and Y5 yarn are spandex, and the linear density is between 40-1200D.
  • a weaving method of a lace fabric with good permeability and non-detachment which adopts Y1 yarn, Y2 yarn, 3 yarn, Y4 yarn and Y5 yarn, a total of 5 groups of yarns are interlaced and woven to form a fabric body, in:
  • the Y1 yarn and the Y2 yarn are woven into the jacquard jacquard layer of the fabric body in a warp-flat structure with opposite numbers of underlays, and are formed with a number of holes of different sizes that make the fabric body transparent.
  • the Y3 yarn is a cluster of patterned yarns and bars, and is woven with a 1-needle weft-inserted structure to form the pattern layer of the fabric body.
  • the Y4 yarn and the Y5 yarn are woven in a 1-needle weft-inserted structure and in the opposite direction of the laying yarn to form an elastic layer that provides warp stretchability for the fabric body.
  • the knitting yarns of the looped jacquard layer, the pattern layer and the elastic layer are pulled together to form an anti-separation structure for the fabric body.
  • the yarns used in this example and their threading methods are:
  • Y4 PU 210D, 1 wear and 1 empty;
  • Y5 PU 210D, 1 empty and 1 worn;
  • the specific production steps of this example are: warping - threading - weaving embryo - washing - predetermined - dyeing - finishing.
  • Warping The warping operator selects the required yarn and quantity according to the requirements of the process sheet and places it on the warping creel, adjusts the warping tension and machine speed, and prepares the yarn on the pan head.
  • Warping machine type Karl Mayer DS 21/30 NC-2, passive yarn feed
  • the workshop sets the warping process parameters, and adds oil to the yarn as needed.
  • Warping machine model Karl Mayer DSE-H21/30 NC-2, positive feed
  • the workshop sets the process parameters under the above temperature and humidity conditions.
  • Threading The threader pierces the yarn on each pan head and the yarn spool to the yarn guide needle of the corresponding bar according to the threading method listed in the weaving process sheet.
  • Weaving embryo hang out the cloth head after threading, and then adjust the yarn tension of each pan head and yarn tube according to the design requirements and the actual situation on the machine to ensure that it is within a reasonable range. After checking and confirming that there are no other problems, the machine can be started to knit. .

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

公开了一种具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物及其编织方法。该蕾丝织物包括织物本体，该织物本体至少由Y1纱线、Y2纱线、3纱线、Y4纱线、Y5纱线共5组纱线相互交错编织而成；其中，Y1纱线、Y2纱线编织形成织物本体的成圈贾卡提花层，Y3纱线编织形成织物本体的花型层，Y4纱线、Y5纱线编织形成为织物本体提供经向伸缩性的弹性层，成圈贾卡提花层、花型层和弹性层的编织纱线相互套拉使织物本体形成防脱散结构，成圈贾卡提花层上设有若干个使织物本体具有通透性的大小不一的孔洞。该蕾丝织物具有通透性、不脱散性及舒展性于一体的特点，可广泛应用到内衣、运动衣、休闲服领域。

Description

一种具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物及其编织方法 技术领域
本发明属于针织服装面料及编织技术领域，具体的说是一种具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物及编织方法。
背景技术
蕾丝织物的通透性、花式灵活生动性等特性，在时装领域越来越受到广大成衣设计师及穿着者的喜爱。但由于大部分的传统蕾丝织物的底布结构均为编链结构，其在沿经向逆编织方向易脱散，严重影响了其在服装领域的运用。能否有效改善或解决此问题？查相关资料获知，部分生产商已进行了一些生产技术或条件的改进：
CN 107532350 A（蕾丝针织物），该发明提供美观良好且手感良好的蕾丝针织物。编链丝与第1插入丝的接触部、编链丝与第2插入丝的接触部粘接而防止格子的变形。
CN 107287755 B（多梳经编机的编织方法），该发明提出了一种多梳经编机的编织方法，在原有线圈基础上增加防脱散线圈，增大了原有线圈的紧密性，各线圈连接点，交错或重叠，使地网线圈具有很强的抱合力，同时与形成花纹组织的花纱抱合更紧密，即使没有增加编链转移横线或热熔丝纱线，也使得受损后地纱线圈和花纱均不易脱散。
CN 109505054 A（一种非热熔材质的任意裁蕾丝花边织物），该发明所述织物本体具有利用两把长丝梳栉、两把氨纶梳栉编织而成的主体，主体上具有采用花纱梳栉以弹性纱线或长丝走衬纬结构或成圈结构编织形成的花型层，主体内还设有弹性纬向开度层、经向开度层和紧实阻力层，具有经纬向拉伸性能良好，可全方位自由拉伸且裁剪后不易脱散的优点。
以上三个发明虽然对所述脱散问题进行了改善，但本发明人认为其方案仍不够完美：按CN 107532350 A所述，所用原料均为熔点不一致的热熔性材质，且有两组不同的包芯纱，所以该发明的整个生产工艺流程复杂（不同熔点用不同的定型温度）、不环保（定型机在工作状态下必然会耗水耗电及产生废气，次数越多则影响越大）、增加了生产成本；按CN 107287755 B所述，则需要在现有设备基础上增加一套送经装置，这样势必会增加技术难度及运营成本，最终影响到织物的销售价格，不利于织物的市场竞争。按CN 109505054 A所述用一把长丝配一把氨纶共同走编链结构的方式来达到防脱散目的，但这两把纱线在实际整经、上料、穿纱环节合起来的工作量太大，即耗时必然增加，不利于生产效率及生产成本。
 技术问题
本发明要解决的技术问题是提供一种具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物及其编织方法。
技术解决方案
一种具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物，包括织物本体，所述织物本体至少由Y1纱线、Y2纱线、3纱线、Y4纱线 Y5纱线共5组纱线相互交错编织而成；其中：
Y1纱线、Y2纱线编织形成织物本体的成圈贾卡提花层，Y3纱线编织形成织物本体的花型层，Y4纱线、Y5纱线编织形成为织物本体提供经向伸缩性的弹性层，成圈贾卡提花层、花型层和弹性层的编织纱线相互套拉使织物本体形成防脱散结构，成圈贾卡提花层上设有若干个使织物本体具有通透性的大小不一的孔洞。
所述Y1纱线、Y2纱线为贾卡纱线，具体为长丝或复合纱，编织结构为经平结构，且垫纱方向相反，Y1纱线和Y2纱线的垫纱数码分别为1-0/1-2//、1-2/1-0//或0-1/2-1//、2-1/0-1//。
所述Y3纱线为花纱，具体为长丝或复合纱，编织结构为1针衬纬结构，垫纱数码为0-0/1-1//。
所述Y4纱线、Y5纱线为氨纶，编织结构为1针衬纬结构，且垫纱方向相反，Y4纱线、Y5纱线的垫纱数码分别为0-0/1-1//、1-1/0-0//或1-1/0-0//、0-0/1-1//。
所述复合纱由芯丝与包覆丝组成，包覆丝将芯丝包覆在内，芯丝为氨纶或除氨纶外的弹性丝，包覆丝为锦纶、涤纶或除锦纶、涤纶之外的无弹丝。
所述复合纱采用机包工艺或空包工艺制成，采用机包工艺制备时，包覆丝是FDY或DTY，捻度为550 - 650，氨纶的牵伸比为2.5–3.5；采用空包工艺时，包覆丝为DTY，网络点为140个/米–180个/米，氨纶牵伸比为2.7–3.3。
所述Y1纱线、Y2纱线为长丝时，线密度在10-150D之间；Y1纱线、Y2纱线为复合纱时，线密度在20-150D之间，其中复合纱的包覆丝的线密度在10-100D之间，芯丝的线密度在10-70D之间。
所述Y3纱线为长丝时，线密度在20-900D之间；Y3纱线为复合纱时，线密度在30-900D之间的不同纱线。其中复合纱中包覆丝的线密度在20-850D之间，芯丝的线密度在10-70D之间。
所述Y4纱线、Y5纱线为氨纶，线密度为在40-1200D之间。
一种具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物的编织方法，采用Y1纱线、Y2纱线、3纱线、Y4纱线 Y5纱线共5组纱线相互交错编织而成织物本体，其中：
Y1纱线和Y2纱线以经平结构，相反的垫纱数码，编织形成织物本体的成圈贾卡提花层，并形成有若干个使织物本体具有通透性的大小不一的孔洞；
Y3纱线为花纱梳栉集群，采用1针衬纬结构编织形成织物本体的花型层；
Y4纱线、Y5纱线以1针衬纬结构，且相反的垫纱方向，编织形成为织物本体提供经向伸缩性的弹性层；
成圈贾卡提花层、花型层和弹性层的编织纱线相互套拉使织物本体形成防脱散结构。
 有益效果
本发明通过成圈贾卡提花层的大小不一的孔洞使得织物有良好的通透性，又因在实际编织过程中为变化经平结构，不同纱线编织的线圈间的相互套拉使得织物避免了脱散的可能性；再配合花纱形成的各式花型及氨纶在经向的对称性拉伸作用，最终形成的蕾丝织物将具有通透性、不脱散性及舒展性于一体，完全适合广泛应用到内衣、运动衣、休闲服等服装领域。
 附图说明
附图1本发明的组织结构示意图；
附图2为Y1纱线组织结构示意图；
附图3为Y2纱线组织结构示意图；
附图4为Y3纱线组织结构示意图；
附图5为Y4纱线组织结构示意图。
附图6为Y5纱线组织结构示意图。
具体实施方式
为能进一步了解本发明的特征、技术手段以及所达到的具体目的、功能，下面结合附图与具体实施方式对本发明作进一步详细描述。
如附图1-6所示，本发明揭示了一种具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物，包括织物本体，所述织物本体由Y1纱线、Y2纱线、3纱线、Y4纱线 Y5纱线共5组纱线相互交错编织而成，各个纱线由于相互交错，因此各个纱线在编织过程中形成的线圈都存在相互套拉的结构，使得整体具有良好的防脱散性能。
Y1纱线、Y2纱线编织形成织物本体的成圈贾卡提花层，Y3纱线编织形成织物本体的花型层，Y4纱线、Y5纱线编织形成为织物本体提供经向伸缩性的弹性层，成圈贾卡提花层、花型层和弹性层的编织纱线相互套拉使织物本体形成防脱散结构，成圈贾卡提花层上设有若干个使织物本体具有通透性的大小不一的孔洞，提高织物本体的通透性。花型层作为织物本体的表面层，可以根据需要编织得到不同的花型，起到装饰性的作用。
所述Y1纱线、Y2纱线为贾卡纱线，具体为长丝或复合纱，编织结构为经平结构，且垫纱方向相反，Y1纱线和Y2纱线的垫纱数码分别为1-0/1-2//、1-2/1-0//或0-1/2-1//、2-1/0-1//。在具体编织时，经平结构可为变化经平，在变化的部位形成孔洞，保证织物本体的通透性。
所述Y3纱线为花纱，具体为长丝或复合纱，编织结构为1针衬纬结构，垫纱数码为0-0/1-1//。
所述Y4纱线、Y5纱线为氨纶，编织结构为1针衬纬结构，且垫纱方向相反，Y4纱线、Y5纱线的垫纱数码分别为0-0/1-1//、1-1/0-0//或1-1/0-0//、0-0/1-1//。
在编织成圈贾卡提花层时，贾卡梳栉上的纱线根据工艺设计，在实际编织过程中走的是变化经平结构，各纱线编织过程中形成的线圈，相互间进行形成套拉结构，相互套拉使得织物避免了脱散的可能性，通过编织的孔洞使得织物获得了良好的通透性。再配合花纱形成的各式样的花型及氨纶在经向形成弹性层起到的对称性拉伸作用，最终形成的蕾丝织物将聚通透性、不脱散性及舒展性于一体。
所述复合纱由芯丝与包覆丝组成，包覆丝将芯丝包覆在内，芯丝为氨纶或除氨纶外的其他弹性丝，包覆丝为锦纶、涤纶或除锦纶、涤纶之外的其他无弹丝。
所述复合纱采用机包工艺或空包工艺制成，采用机包工艺制备时，包覆丝是FDY或DTY，捻度为550 - 650，氨纶的牵伸比为2.5–3.5；采用空包工艺时，包覆丝为DTY，网络点为140个/米–180个/米，氨纶牵伸比为2.7–3.3。
所述Y1纱线、Y2纱线为长丝时，线密度在10-150D之间；Y1纱线、Y2纱线为复合纱时，线密度在20-150D之间，其中复合纱的包覆丝的线密度在10-100D之间，芯丝的线密度在10-70D之间。
所述Y3纱线为长丝时，线密度在20-900D之间；Y3纱线为复合纱时，线密度在30-900D之间的不同纱线。其中复合纱中包覆丝的线密度在20-850D之间，芯丝的线密度在10-70D之间。
所述Y4纱线、Y5纱线为氨纶，线密度为在40-1200D之间。
一种具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物的编织方法，采用Y1纱线、Y2纱线、3纱线、Y4纱线 Y5纱线共5组纱线相互交错编织而成织物本体，其中：
Y1纱线和Y2纱线以经平结构，相反的垫纱数码，编织形成织物本体的成圈贾卡提花层，并形成有若干个使织物本体具有通透性的大小不一的孔洞。
Y3纱线为花纱梳栉集群，采用1针衬纬结构编织形成织物本体的花型层。
Y4纱线、Y5纱线以1针衬纬结构，且相反的垫纱方向，编织形成为织物本体提供经向伸缩性的弹性层。
成圈贾卡提花层、花型层和弹性层的编织纱线相互套拉使织物本体形成防脱散结构。
下面以具体的实际编织为例进行说明。
本实例所用纱线及其穿纱方式为：
Y1：PA6 40D/12F SD FDY，满穿；
Y2：PA6 40D/12F SD FDY，满穿；
Y3：PA6 70D/48F/2 SD DTY Z捻，按工艺设计选纱穿纱；
Y4：PU 210D，1穿1空；
Y5：PU 210D，1空1穿；
本实例具体生产步骤为：整经-穿纱-织胚-水洗-预定-染色-后整。
整经：整经操作工根据工艺单要求选择所需纱线及数量后并安放在整经纱架上，调节好整经张力和机速将纱线备到盘头上。
a)尼龙（PA6 40D/12F SD FDY 、PA6 70D/48F/2 SD DTY Z捻）的整经：
整经机机型：Karl Mayer  DS 21/30 NC-2，消极式送纱
整经温度：23℃
整经湿度：65%
车间在上述温湿度的条件下，设置整经工艺参数，并根据需要对纱线做加油处理。
b)氨纶（PU 210D）的整经：
整经机机型：Karl Mayer  DSE-H21/30 NC-2，积极式送纱
整经温度：24℃
整经湿度：78%
车间在上述温湿度的条件下，设置工艺参数。
穿纱：穿纱工按织造工艺单列出的穿纱方式将各盘头和纱筒上的纱线穿到对应梳栉的导纱针上。
织胚：穿纱完后挂出布头，再根据设计要求及机上实际情况调节各盘头及纱筒的纱线张力，保证其在合理的范围之内，待检查确认没有其他问题后可开机编织。
水洗、预定、染色、后整等环节按业内公知的染整工艺进行生产操作。
需要说明的是，以上仅为本发明的优选实施例而已，并不用于限制本发明，尽管参照实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明，对于本领域的技术人员来说，其依然可以对前述实施例所记载的技术方案进行修改，或者对其中部分技术特征进行等同替换，但是凡在本发明的精神和原则之内，所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等，均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物，包括织物本体，其特征在于，所述织物本体至少由Y1纱线、Y2纱线、3纱线、Y4纱线 Y5纱线共5组纱线相互交错编织而成；其中：
    Y1纱线、Y2纱线编织形成织物本体的成圈贾卡提花层，Y3纱线编织形成织物本体的花型层，Y4纱线、Y5纱线编织形成为织物本体提供经向伸缩性的弹性层，成圈贾卡提花层、花型层和弹性层的编织纱线相互套拉使织物本体形成防脱散结构，成圈贾卡提花层上设有若干个使织物本体具有通透性的大小不一的孔洞。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物，其特征在于，所述Y1纱线、Y2纱线为贾卡纱线，具体为长丝或复合纱，编织结构为经平结构，且垫纱方向相反，Y1纱线和Y2纱线的垫纱数码分别为1-0/1-2//、1-2/1-0//或0-1/2-1//、2-1/0-1//。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物，其特征在于，所述Y3纱线为花纱，具体为长丝或复合纱，编织结构为1针衬纬结构，垫纱数码为0-0/1-1//。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物，其特征在于，所述Y4纱线、Y5纱线为氨纶，编织结构为1针衬纬结构，且垫纱方向相反，Y4纱线、Y5纱线的垫纱数码分别为0-0/1-1//、1-1/0-0//或1-1/0-0//、0-0/1-1//。
  5. 根据权利要求2或3所述的具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物，其特征在于，所述复合纱由芯丝与包覆丝组成，包覆丝将芯丝包覆在内，芯丝为氨纶或除氨纶外的弹性丝，包覆丝为锦纶、涤纶或除锦纶、涤纶之外的无弹丝。
  6. 根据权利要求5所述的具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物，其特征在于，所述复合纱采用机包工艺或空包工艺制成，采用机包工艺制备时，包覆丝是FDY或DTY，捻度为550 - 650，氨纶的牵伸比为2.5–3.5；采用空包工艺时，包覆丝为DTY，网络点为140个/米–180个/米，氨纶牵伸比为2.7–3.3。
  7. 根据权利要求6所述的具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物，其特征在于，所述Y1纱线、Y2纱线为长丝时，线密度在10-150D之间；Y1纱线、Y2纱线为复合纱时，线密度在20-150D之间，其中复合纱的包覆丝的线密度在10-100D之间，芯丝的线密度在10-70D之间。
  8. 根据权利要求6所述的具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物，其特征在于，所述Y3纱线为长丝时，线密度在20-900D之间；Y3纱线为复合纱时，线密度在30-900D之间的不同纱线。其中复合纱中包覆丝的线密度在20-850D之间，芯丝的线密度在10-70D之间。
  9. 根据权利要求8所述的具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物，其特征在于，所述Y4纱线、Y5纱线为氨纶，线密度为在40-1200D之间。
  10. 一种具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物的编织方法，其特征在于，采用Y1纱线、Y2纱线、3纱线、Y4纱线 Y5纱线共5组纱线相互交错编织而成织物本体，其中：
    Y1纱线和Y2纱线以经平结构，相反的垫纱数码，编织形成织物本体的成圈贾卡提花层，并形成有若干个使织物本体具有通透性的大小不一的孔洞；
    Y3纱线为花纱梳栉集群，采用1针衬纬结构编织形成织物本体的花型层；
    Y4纱线、Y5纱线以1针衬纬结构，且相反的垫纱方向，编织形成为织物本体提供经向伸缩性的弹性层；
    成圈贾卡提花层、花型层和弹性层的编织纱线相互套拉使织物本体形成防脱散结构。
PCT/CN2021/075028 2020-11-04 2021-02-03 一种具有良好通透性且不脱散的蕾丝织物及其编织方法 WO2022095292A1 (zh)

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