WO2021165205A1 - Lysat (ly) de cellules dedifferenciees de la plante helichrysum stoechas administrable par voie topique pour éliminer ou réduire l'inflammation de la peau - Google Patents

Lysat (ly) de cellules dedifferenciees de la plante helichrysum stoechas administrable par voie topique pour éliminer ou réduire l'inflammation de la peau Download PDF

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WO2021165205A1
WO2021165205A1 PCT/EP2021/053648 EP2021053648W WO2021165205A1 WO 2021165205 A1 WO2021165205 A1 WO 2021165205A1 EP 2021053648 W EP2021053648 W EP 2021053648W WO 2021165205 A1 WO2021165205 A1 WO 2021165205A1
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composition
equal
mass
skin
oil
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PCT/EP2021/053648
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Erwan LE GELEBART
Cécile BIZE
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Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques - Seppic
Biotechmarine
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Application filed by Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques - Seppic, Biotechmarine filed Critical Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques - Seppic
Priority to KR1020227031837A priority Critical patent/KR20220143075A/ko
Priority to EP24152338.0A priority patent/EP4349418A3/fr
Priority to EP21704808.1A priority patent/EP4106784B1/fr
Priority to US17/800,187 priority patent/US20240033207A1/en
Priority to CN202180021251.6A priority patent/CN115348867B/zh
Priority to JP2022549402A priority patent/JP2023514304A/ja
Publication of WO2021165205A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021165205A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/28—Asteraceae or Compositae (Aster or Sunflower family), e.g. chamomile, feverfew, yarrow or echinacea
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/06—Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite
    • A61K47/08—Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite containing oxygen, e.g. ethers, acetals, ketones, quinones, aldehydes, peroxides
    • A61K47/10—Alcohols; Phenols; Salts thereof, e.g. glycerol; Polyethylene glycols [PEG]; Poloxamers; PEG/POE alkyl ethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/0012—Galenical forms characterised by the site of application
    • A61K9/0014—Skin, i.e. galenical aspects of topical compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/06—Ointments; Bases therefor; Other semi-solid forms, e.g. creams, sticks, gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/10—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K9/107—Emulsions ; Emulsion preconcentrates; Micelles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P29/00—Non-central analgesic, antipyretic or antiinflammatory agents, e.g. antirheumatic agents; Non-steroidal antiinflammatory drugs [NSAID]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2236/00—Isolation or extraction methods of medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicine
    • A61K2236/30—Extraction of the material
    • A61K2236/37—Extraction at elevated pressure or temperature, e.g. pressurized solvent extraction [PSE], supercritical carbon dioxide extraction or subcritical water extraction
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/84—Products or compounds obtained by lyophilisation, freeze-drying

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a lysate of dedifferentiated cells from the plant Helichrysum stoechas which can be administered topically to soothe human skin and / or the scalp, more particularly dry, reactive and / or sensitive skin.
  • the skin constitutes the interface between the human internal environment (or human organism) and the external environment.
  • the skin has the particular function of ensuring a mission of protection of the human organism, by forming a real barrier which is vital.
  • the skin makes it possible to fight against dehydration by limiting the diffusion of water out of the body.
  • the skin Due to its interface position with the external environment, the skin is subjected to numerous daily stresses, such as, for example, contact with clothing, temperature changes, exposure to ultraviolet radiation from body light. sun, changes in humidity, contact with certain irritating chemicals, contact with chemicals considered to be pollutants.
  • the skin is made up of layers of different tissues:
  • the epidermis made up of keratinocytes, is its outermost part, then comes the dermis, which is connective tissue composed mainly of fibroblasts and extracellular matrix, and
  • hypodermis made up of adipocytes, which is the deepest part and the furthest from the external environment.
  • the skin performs various functions in the interest of the entire system it houses, among which we can retain:
  • An emunctory function aimed at secreting sweat based on water, salts and acid waste
  • a function of regulating the temperature of the body contains many other regulatory mechanisms, such as for example its mechanism of adaptation and protection against ultraviolet radiation (adaptive pigment coloring by the production of melanin), such as for example an immune watch system by the presence of macrophages, dendritic cells.
  • Human skin is also the first image offered to the gaze of others.
  • the skin is the reflection of a state of well-being, often associated with youth, and conversely of a state of fatigue and / or aging.
  • the preservation and improvement of the condition of the outermost layer of the skin, namely the epidermis constitutes a major center of interest for research carried out by the cosmetic industries.
  • stratum corneum is the first layer of the epidermis to undergo external stresses, such as variations in external climatic conditions (temperature, humidity, ultraviolet radiation, polluting agents) or mechanical stress.
  • external stresses such as variations in external climatic conditions (temperature, humidity, ultraviolet radiation, polluting agents) or mechanical stress.
  • sensitive or reactive skin is a condition that affects many people: around 50% of people (60% of women, 40% of men) report having reactive skin.
  • Sensitive skin is defined by a particular reactivity of the skin.
  • This skin reactivity is conventionally expressed by the manifestation of signs of discomfort, such as redness, in response to the subject coming into contact with a triggering element which may have various origins.
  • sensitive skin covers irritable skin and intolerant skin.
  • Intolerant skin is skin which reacts by sensations of heating, tightness, tingling and / or redness, to various factors such as the application of cosmetic or dermatological products or soap. In general, these signs are associated with erythema and hyper-seborrheic or acne-prone, even rosacea-like skin, with or without sores.
  • Irritable skin is skin that reacts with pruritus, i.e. itching or tingling, to different factors such as the environment, emotions, food, wind, friction, razor , hard water with high concentration of lime, variations in temperature, humidity or wool.
  • a solution according to the present invention is a lysate (Ly) of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoechas which can be administered topically to eliminate or reduce inflammation of the skin and / or the scalp.
  • the expression “to eliminate or reduce inflammation of the human skin and / or the scalp” is understood to mean the partial or total return to the state of homeostasis of the inflamed cells.
  • topically administrable is meant that the lysate is formulated to be topically administrable.
  • the lysate (Ly) of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoechas will be the active principle making it possible to eliminate the inflammation of the skin and / or the scalp.
  • the present invention relates to a lysate of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoechas which can be administered topically to eliminate the unsightly and / or symptomatic signs linked to inflammation of the human skin and / or the scalp, for example redness, tightness, itching, tingling.
  • the lysate is obtained from the high pressure homogenization of the culture of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoechas.
  • the method for obtaining the lysate of dedifferentiated cells of the Helichrysum stoechas plant will preferably comprise the following steps: a) Preparation of the sterile sample of the Helichrysum stoechas plant, b) Callogenesis c) Suspension d) Selection of a fine suspension e) Biomass production f) High pressure homogenization of the culture g) Stabilization of the culture lysate of dedifferentiated cells
  • steps a) b) c) d) no longer need to be repeated because it leads to the culture of dedifferentiated cells that can be used ad infinitum to produce biomass insofar as the physiological needs of the cells are respected.
  • Steps b) c) d) and e) must be carried out under sterile conditions in order to maintain the culture under axenic conditions.
  • This step a) can also be carried out using any other part of the plant (roots, stems, meristems, flowers, etc.).
  • Sterilization can also be applied to seeds, without the cutting phase b) Callogenesis Pieces of sterilized leaves obtained in the previous step are deposited on the solid callogenesis medium (the composition of which is described in Table 1), which is then incubated for a period of three weeks in a thermostatically controlled chamber at a temperature greater than or equal to 20 and less than or equal to 25 ° C. in the light or in the dark.
  • the solid callogenesis medium the composition of which is described in Table 1
  • callus is understood to mean a cluster of dedifferentiated cells.
  • the pieces of callus in suspension are placed in culture in a thermostatically controlled chamber for a period of 7 days to 21 days at a temperature greater than or equal to 20 and less than or equal to 25 ° C in the light or in the dark, with mechanical stirring. of orbital type, at a stirring speed of between 25 revolutions / minute and 200 revolutions / minute (more precisely at a stirring speed of 100 revolutions / minute for an orbital diameter of 5 cm).
  • step c Take between 1/5 and 1/3 of the culture volume containing dedifferentiated cells in fine suspension obtained at the end of step c.
  • This new suspension is cultured in a thermostatically controlled chamber for a period of 7 to 21 days (the end of the culture period is dictated by the observation of the nutrient deficiency) at a temperature greater than or equal to 20 and less or equal to -25 ° C in light, with mechanical stirring of orbital type, at a speed of rotation between 25 revolutions / minute and 200 revolutions / minute (more precisely at a speed of rotation of 100 revolutions / minute for an orbital diameter 5 cm).
  • the term “nutrient deficiency” is understood to mean the observation of a content of less than 5% of the quantity of nutrient initially introduced into the culture medium.
  • step d Take a volume of the fine suspension obtained during step d), and place it in a volume of fresh suspending medium, as described in Table 2, 3 times greater than the volume taken of fine suspension obtained at at the end of step d).
  • This new suspension is cultured in a thermostatically controlled chamber for a period of 7 to 21 days (the end of the culture period is dictated by the nutrient deficiency), at a temperature greater than or equal to 20 and less than or equal to- 25 ° C, in the light or in the dark, with mechanical stirring of orbital type, at a speed of rotation between 25 revolutions / minute and 200 revolutions / minute (more precisely at 100 revolutions / minute for an orbital diameter of 5 cm ).
  • This step can be carried out, up to volumes less than or equal to 5 liters in Erlenmeyer flasks, then for volumes greater than 5 liters and less than or equal to 1000 liters in bioreactors (“wave reactor” or “wave” type. ,
  • a) High Pressure Homogenization of the Culture Obtaining the Culture Lysate of Dedifferentiated Cells. A fraction of the volume of culture obtained at the end of step e) is taken to be lysed using a high pressure homogenizer, the pressure of which can be set at a value greater than or equal to 100 and less than or equal to 1000 bars (preferably for the present invention, at a pressure equal to 500 bars). The dedifferentiated cells present in the culture passed through the high pressure homogenizer are lysed, and their content is released into the culture medium.
  • step f) Stabilization of the Dedifferentiated Cell Culture Lysate
  • the dedifferentiated cell culture lysate collected at the end of step f) is acidified, by adding a mineral acid or an organic acid, to achieve a pH value greater than or equal to 4 and less than or equal to 4.5 in order to stabilize its color.
  • This lysate contains pieces of cells which are insoluble in the medium and which are liable to sediment, and to constitute a brake on the marketing of the product.
  • a thickening and / or gelling agent in a proportion greater than or equal to 0.1% by mass and less than or equal to 2% (more preferably a mixture of xanthan gum and acacia, in proportions by mass of 40-45% and 48-55% and in an amount of 0.8% by mass, such as the mixture of xanthan gum and acacia gum marketed under the brand name Solagum TM AX) makes it possible to obtain a suspension not settling over time.
  • a lysate of dedifferentiated cells can be stabilized from a microbiological and physicochemical point of view by various means:
  • the proportions of the different ingredients are as follows, for 100% by weight:
  • step f • 60% to 70% by mass of HHP lysate of the culture of dedifferentiated cells of Helichrysum stoechas, obtained in step f (95% to 99.5% by mass of water and 0.5% to 5% by mass of material dried).
  • the stabilized dedifferentiated cell culture lysate can be stored or be directly incorporated into a cosmetic formulation in an amount of 0.1% to 3% by weight (preferably 1% by weight).
  • thickening agent can fulfill the function of stabilizing agent, for example
  • a polar solvent preferably glycerol, but other polyols could be used Note that there are many differences between the whole plant and dedifferentiated cells.
  • the chromatogram of the cell extract is much richer in the zone between the retention times of between 25 minutes and 40 minutes, which corresponds to the elution times of the most apolar molecules.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a composition for topical use (C1) in the form of a gel and comprising, for 100% of its mass:
  • the gelling and / or thickening agents are chosen from polysaccharides, cellulose and cellulose derivatives, starches, and polymers of polyelectrolyte type, linear or branched or crosslinked.
  • composition (C1) can be administered topically to eliminate or reduce inflammation of the skin and / or scalp.
  • topically administrable is meant that the composition is formulated to be topically administrable.
  • the present invention relates to a composition (C1) which can be administered by the topical route to eliminate or reduce the unsightly and / or symptomatic signs linked to the inflammation of the sensitive human skin and / or of the scalp such as for example redness, tightness, itching, tingling.
  • gel denotes a chemical composition which is initially in the liquid state which, after addition of gelling and / or thickening substances, is transformed into a structured state which does not flow.
  • a gel as defined is considered to be an intermediate state between the solid state and the liquid state, and is constituted by a three-dimensional network within the liquid being the result of chemical or physical bonds.
  • gelling agent means a chemical compound or a mixture of chemical compounds, which transforms a liquid medium into a gel.
  • thickening agent means a chemical compound or a mixture of chemical compounds, which increases the viscosity of the medium into which it is introduced.
  • composition (Ci) for topical use
  • the said composition will be formulated to allow its application to the skin, the hair, the scalp, the nails, the lips, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, whether it is a direct application in the case of a cosmetic formulation or an indirect application, for example in the case of a body care product in the form of textile or paper wipes or sanitary products intended to be in contact with the skin, hair, scalp, nails, lips, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows.
  • polysaccharides denotes the polymers of saccharides.
  • the IUPAC definition of saccharides designates oses, ose compounds proper and their derivatives obtained either by reduction of a carbonyl group, or by oxidation of one or more hydroxyl functions, or by the replacement of one or more functions. hydroxyls with a hydrogen atom, with an amine group, a phosphate function, a sulfate function.
  • the polysaccharides most commonly used for the preparation of industrial, food, cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions consist mainly of oses, such as glucose, galactose, mannose or ose derivatives for which the hydroxyl function of the terminal carbon has been oxidized to the carboxyl function.
  • oses such as glucose, galactose, mannose or ose derivatives for which the hydroxyl function of the terminal carbon has been oxidized to the carboxyl function.
  • Two distinct groups can be distinguished among the polysaccharides: polysaccharides consisting solely of oses (or poly-oses) and polysaccharides consisting of derivatives of oses.
  • the gelling and / or thickening agents present in the aqueous composition (C1) which is the subject of the present invention are chosen from polysaccharides consisting solely of oses (or poly-oses).
  • glucans which are homopolymers of glucose very abundant in nature
  • glucomannoglycans xyloglycans
  • galactomannans which are polymers whose main chain consists of D-mannose units, linked together in b-1,4, and onto which D-galactose units are grafted laterally by ⁇ bonds -1.6.
  • Galactomannans are present in several plant species, and more particularly in leguminous species in which they constitute the albumen of the seeds.
  • the degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on the D-mannose main chain of galactomannans varies between 0 and 1: galactomannans from cassia gum exhibit a degree of substitution (DS ) of about 1/5, signifying the lateral grafting of one unit of D-galactose for every 5 units of D-mannose present on the main chain of the polysaccharide.
  • Galactomannans from locust bean gum exhibit a degree of substitution (DS) of about 1/4, signifying the lateral grafting of one unit of D-galactose for every 4 units of D-mannose present on the main chain of the polysaccharide
  • Galactomannans from tara gum exhibit a degree of substitution (DS) of about 1/3, signifying the lateral grafting of one unit of D-galactose for every 3 units of D-mannose present on the main chain of the polysaccharide .
  • Galactomannans from guar gum exhibit a degree of substitution (DS) of approximately 1/2, signifying the lateral grafting of one unit of D-galactose for every 2 units of D-mannose present on the main chain of the polysaccharide
  • Galactomannans from fenugreek gum exhibit a degree of substitution (DS) of about 1/1, signifying the lateral grafting of one unit of D-galactose for almost all of the D-mannose units present on the main chain of the gum. polysaccharide.
  • the gelling and / or thickening agents present in the aqueous composition (C1) which is the subject of the present invention are chosen from polysaccharides consisting only of oses (or poly-oses) included in the group consisting of galactomannan from Tara gum, galactomannan from guar gum and galactomannan from locust bean gum.
  • the gelling and / or thickening agents present in the aqueous composition (Ci) which is the subject of the present invention are chosen from polysaccharides consisting of ose derivatives.
  • polysaccharides made up of ose derivatives we can distinguish: Sulphated galactans, which are polymers of galactose which may have pendant ester-sulfate groups, represented in particular by algal polysaccharides such as carrageenans and agar;
  • Uronanes which are polymers of uronic acids such as algins and pectins; Heteropolymers of oses and uronic acids: often of complex composition, these polymers are found in particular in sap exudates (such as for example the exudate of gum arabic and the exudate of karaya gum) but they are also produced by microorganisms, such as for example xanthan gum and gellan gum;
  • Glucosaminoglycans which are polysaccharides formed from a glucose derived by replacing its hydroxyl on C-2 by an amine (called 2-amino-2-deoxy-D-glucose or, more simply, glucosamine).
  • the amine function can moreover be acetylated.
  • hydrocolloids in this class are chitosan, formed only of glucosamine units, and hyaluronan, the repeating unit of which is a dimer of glucosamine and glucuronic acid.
  • Xanthan gum has in recent decades become the most widely used microbial polysaccharide in industry.
  • Xanthan is a polysaccharide synthesized by bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas, and commercially only the species X. campestris is used.
  • the main chain of la (Gx) is identical to that of cellulose, that is, it is formed of bD-glucose units linked by carbons 1 and 4. There is a triholoside connected both.
  • each branch consisting of a triholoside composed of two mannoses and a glucuronic acid, of the type: -D-Manp- (l -> 4) ⁇ - D-GlcAp- (l -> 2) -aD-Manp- (l -> 3)
  • Xanthan gum GX is available as a sodium, potassium or calcium salt.
  • Acacia gum is a complex branched polysaccharide whose main chain consists of bD-galactose units linked together by carbons 1 and 3.
  • the chains branched to the main chain are made up of bD-galactose units linked together. They by carbons 1 and 6, also carrying ⁇ -arabinose units, and in lesser proportions ⁇ -glucoronosyl units.
  • Both the main chain and the pendant chains contain aL-arabinosyl, aL-rhamnopyranosyl, bD-glucuronopyranosyl and 4-0-iti ⁇ IigI-b-D-glucuronopyranosyl units.
  • the gelling and / or thickening agents present in the aqueous composition (Ci) object of the present invention are polysaccharides consisting of ose derivatives chosen from the elements of the group consisting of carrageenans, agar, algins, pectins, gum arabic exudate, karaya gum exudate, xanthan gum, gellan gum, chitosan and hyaluronan, and / or mixtures thereof.
  • the gelling and / or thickening agents present in the aqueous composition (Ci) which is the subject of the present invention are polysaccharides consisting of ose derivatives chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the exudate of the gum. arabic, karaya gum exudate, xanthan gum and / or mixtures thereof.
  • the gelling and / or thickening agents present in the aqueous composition (Ci) which is the subject of the present invention are polysaccharides consisting of ose derivatives chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the exudate of the gum.
  • arabic, xanthan gum, mixture of xanthan gum (Gx) and gum arabic exudate (GA) used in a mass ratio between xanthan gum (Gx) and acacia exudate gum ( GA) is greater than or equal to 1/3 and less than or equal to 3/1, in particular marketed by the company SEPPIC under the brand name SOLAGUM TM AX.
  • the gelling and / or thickening agents present in the aqueous composition (Ci) which is the subject of the present invention are chosen from cellulose and cellulose derivatives.
  • cellulose denotes a polysaccharide which consists of a linear chain of D-Glucose molecules, the average molecular mass of which is at least lO.OOOgmol 1 , more particularly at least. at least 15,000gmol _1 , more particularly at least 1y.OOOgmol 1 , still more particularly at least 20,000gmol _1 , still more particularly at least 25,000gmol _1 .
  • the gelling and / or thickening agents present in the aqueous composition (Ci) which is the subject of the present invention are chosen from cellulose derivatives.
  • cellulose derivatives denotes the elements of the group consisting of hydroxy-ethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxy ethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxy propyl cellulose, G hydroxy propyl cellulose, the sodium salt of carboxy methyl cellulose, dihydroxy propyl ether of cellulose.
  • starch denotes a mixture of amylose and amylopectin, and more particularly the elements of the group consisting of corn starch, wheat starch, potato starch. and cassava starch.
  • polymers of polyelectrolyte type linear or branched or crosslinked
  • crosslinked synthetic anionic copolymers based on methacrylic acid or acrylic acid, or esters of methacrylic acid or acrylic acid, optionally hydrophically modified, prepared by direct emulsion polymerization.
  • synthetic anionic copolymers are respectively known to those skilled in the art under the names “Alkaline Swellable Emulsion” (or “ASE”) and “Hydrophobically Alcaline Swellable Emulsion” (or “HASE”). Thickening agents of the "HASE” type are described in the international application published under the number WO 02/34793 A2;
  • Synthetic, crosslinked or branched anionic polyelectrolytes which are crosslinked and / or branched homopolymers or copolymers of water-soluble unsaturated monomers, such as acrylic acid and / or its derivatives, methacrylic acid and / or its derivatives, acrylamide and / or its derivatives, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and / or its salts, N-vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl alcohol and / or its derivatives.
  • These synthetic anionic polyelectrolytes are in the form of reverse latices, obtained by radical polymerization in reverse emulsion, or in the form of powders, obtained by precipitating polymerization or by atomization of reverse latices.
  • the gelling and / or thickening agents present in the aqueous composition (Ci) which is the subject of the present invention are chosen from linear or branched or crosslinked polyelectrolytes, resulting from the radical polymerization of at least one monomer selected from the elements of the group consisting of acrylic acid and / or its sodium salt, methacrylic acid and / or its sodium salt, 2-hydroxy ethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, acrylamide, N, N-dimethyl acrylamide, N-isopropyl acrylamide, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and / or its sodium or potassium salt, N-vinyl pyrrolidone, at least one monomer of formula (I): in which R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from eight to twenty carbon atoms and n represents an integer greater than or equal to zero and less than or equal to twenty.
  • Said radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of a crosslinking agent chosen from polyethylene monomers comprising at least two ethylenic functions, and more particularly chosen from the elements of the group consisting of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallyl amine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate or methylene-bis (acrylamide) or a mixture of these compounds.
  • a crosslinking agent chosen from polyethylene monomers comprising at least two ethylenic functions, and more particularly chosen from the elements of the group consisting of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallyl amine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate or methylene-bis (acrylamide) or a mixture of these compounds.
  • copolymer of the sodium salt of 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propanesulfonic acid and of 2-hydroxy ethyl acrylate crosslinked with triallyl amine and / or with trimethylol propanetriacrylate and / or with methylene-bis (acrylamide),
  • copolymer of the sodium salt of 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propanesulfonic acid and of acrylamide crosslinked with triallyl amine and / or with trimethylol propanetriacrylate and / or with methylene-bis (acrylamide),
  • the terpolymer of the sodium salt of 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propanesulfonic acid, acrylamide and acrylic acid partially or totally salified, crosslinked with triallyl amine and / or with trimethylol propanetriacrylate and / or with methylene bis ( acrylamide),
  • the gelling agents and / or thickeners present in the aqueous composition (Ci) object of the present invention are chosen from the elements of the group consisting of xanthan gum, the exudate of acacia gum , the mixture of xanthan gum (Gx) and gum arabic exudate (G A ) in a mass ratio between xanthan gum (Gx) and acacia exudate gum (G A ) is greater or equal to 1/3 and less than or equal to 3/1, the copolymer of the sodium salt of 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propanesulfonic acid and of 2-hydroxy ethyl acrylate, crosslinked with triallyl amine and / or with trimethylol propanetriacrylate and / or methylene-bis (acrylamide), the copolymer of the sodium salt of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, crosslinked with triallyl amine and / or with trimethylol propanetriacrylate and
  • composition for topical use (Ci) as defined above can also comprise one or more auxiliary compounds chosen from solvents and cosolvents, agents for improving skin penetration.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a composition for topical use (C'1) in the form of a gel and comprising, for 100% of its mass:
  • Lyzat Lyzat (Ly) as defined above, From 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably of 0.5% to 3% by mass of at least one thickening and / or gelling agent, and
  • the solvent is chosen from the elements of the group consisting of: the compounds of formula (Ia):
  • n represents an integer greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifteen, more particularly greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to 10 , more particularly greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to 6, more particularly greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to 4, more particularly equal to 1 or 2 or 3 or 4; the compounds of formula (Ib):
  • Rel and Rfl represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a saturated aliphatic radical comprising from one to five carbon atoms, it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra or Rbl and / or at least one of the Rcl or Rdl radicals do not represent a hydrogen atom.
  • the solvent will be glycerol.
  • composition (C'1) can be administered topically to eliminate or reduce inflammation of the skin and / or scalp.
  • the present invention relates to a composition (C'1) which can be administered by the topical route to eliminate or reduce the unsightly and / or symptomatic signs linked to the inflammation of the sensitive human skin and / or of the scalp such as for example redness, tightness, itching, tingling.
  • compositions for topical use (Ci) and (C'i) as defined above may also comprise one or more co-solvents and agents for improving skin penetration.
  • organic solvents for example glycerol, diglycerol, oligomers of glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol,
  • glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol mono methyl. ether, ethylene glycol mono ethyl ether, ethylene glycol mono propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono phenyl ether, ethylene glycol mono benzyl ether, diethylene glycol mono methyl ether, diethylene glycol mono ethyl ether and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono ethyl ether (or Transcutol-P), fatty acids such as oleic acid, glycerol esters of 'fatty acid such as, for example, glycerol behenate, glycerol palmitostearate, behenoyl macroglycerides,
  • a subject of the present invention is also a composition for topical use (C2) in the form of an emulsion of water-in-oil type or of an emulsion of oil-in-water type, comprising the lysate (Ly) as defined above, and preferably obtained by implementing a method comprising steps a) to f) as described above.
  • O / W oil-in-water
  • E / H water-in-oil emulsions
  • composition (C2) can also be administered topically to eliminate or reduce inflammation of the skin and / or scalp.
  • the present invention relates to a composition (C2) which can be administered by the topical route to eliminate or reduce the unsightly and / or symptomatic signs linked to the inflammation of the sensitive human skin and / or of the scalp such as for example redness, tightness, itching, tingling.
  • tingling and / or tingling and / or itching and / or heating and / or redness and / or skin discomfort and / or tightness accompany skin pathologies such as urticaria, eczematous dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, herpes, photodermatoses, atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, lichen, prurigos, pruritic diseases, fibrosis, collagen maturation disorders, scleroderma, eczema.
  • the present invention particularly relates to a composition for topical use (F) in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion and comprising, for 100% of its mass:
  • composition for topical use (Cl) or (C'1) as defined in one of claims 3 to 9,
  • a fatty phase comprising i) at least one oil, and optionally at least one wax and ii) an emulsifying system comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant (Si).
  • the emulsifying surfactant (Si) will be chosen from the elements of the group consisting of compositions of alkylpolyglycosides, compositions of alkylpolyglycosides and fatty alcohols, esters of polyglycerols, esters of alkoxylated polyglycerols, polyhydroxystearates. of polyglycols, polyhydroxystearates of polyglycerols, polyhydroxystearates of alkoxylated polyglycerols.
  • oil denotes a compound and / or a mixture of compounds which are insoluble in water and which are liquid at 25 ° C., and more particularly:
  • alkanes comprising from seven to forty carbon atoms, such as isododecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane or isoeicosane), or mixtures of certain 'between them such as those cited below and identified by their INCI name: C7-8 isoparaffin, Cs-9 isoparaffin, C9-11 isoparaffin, C9-12 isoparaffin, C9-13 isoparaffin, C9-14 isoparaffin, C9-16 isoparaffin , Cio-n isoparaffin, C10-12 isoparaffin, C10-13 isoparaffin, Cn-12 isoparaffin, Cn-13 isoparaffin, Cn-14 isoparaffin, C12-14 isoparaffin, C12-20 isoparaffin, C13-14 isoparaffin, C13-16 isoparaffin ;
  • White mineral oils such as those marketed under the following names: Marcol TM 52, Marcol TM 82, Drakeol TM 6VR, Eolane TM 130, Eolane TM 150;
  • Hemisqualane or 2,6,10-trimethyl- dodecane; CAS number: 3891-98-3
  • squalane or 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane
  • hydrogenated polyisobutene or hydrogenated polydecene
  • alkanes comprising from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, said alkanes being linear alkanes, branched alkanes and cyclo-alkanes, and more particularly the mixture (Mi) which comprises, for 100% of its mass, a proportion mass of branched alkanes greater than or equal to 90% and less than or equal to 100%; a proportion by mass of linear alkanes greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 9%, and more particularly less than 5% and a proportion by mass of cycloalkanes greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 1%, by example the mixtures marketed under the names Emogreen TM L15 or Emogreen TM L19;
  • Zi and Z2 which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from five to eighteen carbon atoms, for example dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, didodecyl ether, dodecyl oct
  • Vegetable oils such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, l peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, corn seed oil, poppy, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil,nadooulier oil, passionflower, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, oil calendula, oils from flowers or vegetables;
  • phytosqualane such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, l peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, corn seed oil, poppy, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from the elements of the group consisting of castor oil, paraffin oils, cocoyl caprylate / caprate, isopropyl myristate, capric caprylic triglyceride.
  • the fatty phase (A2) optionally comprises wax.
  • wax denotes a compound and / or a mixture of compounds which are insoluble in water and which are solid at 35 ° C.
  • Such a wax is more particularly chosen from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids which are solid at room temperature; glycerides which are solid at room temperature.
  • alkylpolyglycoside compositions denotes a composition (A) represented by formula (VII):
  • aliphatic hydrocarbon radical saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, is meant for the radical R in formula (VII) as defined above:
  • Saturated linear alkyl radicals for example n-dodecyl, n-tridecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-pentadecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-heptadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-nonadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-docosyl radicals;
  • Unsaturated linear radicals such as dodecenyl, tridecenyl, tetradecenyl, pentadecenyl, hexadecenyl, heptadecenyl, octadecenyl, nonadecenyl, eicosenyl, docosenyl, 4-dodecenyl, or 5-dodecenyl radicals;
  • Saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radicals linear or branched, comprising from 12 to 36 carbon atoms substituted by one or two hydroxy groups, such as hydroxydodecyl, hydroxytetradecyl, hydroxyhexadecyl, hydroxyoctadecyl, hydroxyeicosyl or hydroxydocosyl radicals, for example the 12-hydroxy radical octadecyl.
  • r represents an integer between 8 and 20, for example the isodecyl, isoundecyl, isododecyl, isotridecyl, isotetradecyl radicals, isopentadecyl, isohexadecyl, isopentadecyl, isooctadecyl, isononadecyl, isoeicosyl or isodocosyl;
  • Branched alkyl radicals derived from Guerbet alcohols, of formula (2):
  • R 1 represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • reducing sugar in the definition of formula (VII) as defined above, is meant the saccharide derivatives which do not exhibit in their structures a glycosidic bond established between an anomeric carbon and the oxygen of an acetal group such as that they are defined in the reference work: “Biochemistry”, Daniel Voet / Judith G. Voet, p. 250, John Wyley & Sons, 1990.
  • the oligomeric structure (G) x can be present in all forms of isomerism, whether it be optical isomerism, geometric isomerism or positional isomerism; it can also represent a mixture of isomers.
  • R 1 —O— group is bonded to G via the anomeric carbon of the saccharide residue, so as to form an acetal function.
  • G represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran or tallose; and more particularly G represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose.
  • x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less or equal to 2.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1.25 and less than or equal to 2.0.
  • Ri represents the radical chosen from at least one of the elements of the group consisting of the n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n- radicals.
  • G represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residue of glucose and xylose and x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5.
  • formulation (F) as defined above is characterized in that said emulsifying system consists of a composition (A) of alkylpolyglycosides represented by formula (VII):
  • composition (C2) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas ( Vlli), (VII2), (VII 3 ), (VI U) and (VII5):
  • composition (F) which is the subject of the present invention, the term “composition of alkylpolyglycosides and fatty alcohols” denotes a composition (B) comprising, for 100% of its mass:
  • composition (A) represented by formula (VII) as defined above From 10% to 50% by weight, more particularly from 15% to 40% by weight, and even more particularly from 20% to 30% by weight, of at least one composition (A) represented by formula (VII) as defined above ,
  • R′i-OH (VIII ), in which R'i, identical to or different from Ri, represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 12 to 36 carbon atoms.
  • Ri represents the radical chosen from the n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl and n- radicals.
  • G represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose and xylose and x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5.
  • Ri represents the 2-octyl dodecyl radical
  • G represents the remainder of xylose
  • x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5.
  • R′i represents a radical chosen from the n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl and n- radicals. octadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-docosyl, 2-hexyl decyl, 2-octyl decyl, 2-hexyl dodecyl, 2-octyl dodecyl or 2-decyl tetradecyl, R′i very particularly represents the 2-octyl dodecyl radical.
  • the subject of the invention is a formulation (F) as defined above, characterized in that said emulsifying system consists of a composition (B) comprising, for 100% of its mass:
  • the compound of formula (IX) is chosen from the elements of the group consisting of decaglycerol oleate, decaglycerol isostearate, decaglycerol monolaurate, decaglycerol mono-linoleate, mono-myristate of decaglycerol.
  • composition (F) which is the subject of the present invention
  • polyhydroxystearates of polyglycols denotes a compound of formula (XI): in which ⁇ / ⁇ represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, FU represents the hydrogen atom, the methyl radical, or the ethyl radical, Z2 represents a radical of formula (XII):
  • y '2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10 and Z'2 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above, with Z2 'identical or different from Z2, or the hydrogen atom.
  • polyglycerol polyhydroxystearate denotes a compound represented by formula (XIII): in which Z 3 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above, Z ' 3 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above, with Z 3 ' identical or different from Z3, or the hydrogen atom, y3 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 20.
  • alkoxylated polyglycerol polyhydroxystearate denotes a compound represented by formula (XIV):
  • Z 4 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above
  • Z ' 4 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above, with Z 4 ' identical or different from Z 4 , or l 'hydrogen atom
  • y 4 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 20
  • v'i, v' 2 , v'3, identical or different represent an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 50
  • the sum [(y4. v'i) + (y4. v ' 2 ) + v'3)] is an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 50.
  • the subject of the invention is a formulation (F) as defined above, characterized in that said emulsifying system (S) consists of a composition (D) comprising, for 100% of its mass: 15% at 25% by mass of at least one composition (A) represented by formula
  • composition (A ) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (VII), (VII2), (VII3), (VIU) and (VII5):
  • y '2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10,
  • Z'2 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above, with Z2 'identical or different from Z2, or the hydrogen atom.
  • the invention relates to a formulation (F) as defined above, characterized in that its dynamic viscosity of said formulation (F), measured at a temperature of 25 ° C and using a Brookfield type LVT viscometer at a speed of 6 revolutions / minute is greater than or equal to 500 mPa.s and less than or equal to 40,000 mPa.s.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a composition for topical use (F ') in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and comprising, for 100% of its mass: from 50% to 90% by mass, preferably of 60 to 90% by mass and even more preferably from 70 to 90% by mass of a cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase (Al), said aqueous phase (Al) comprising, for 100% of its own mass, from 0.5% to 10% by mass of the Lyzat (Ly) as defined above from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight and even more preferably from 10% to 30% of a fatty phase (Gl) comprising 100% of its own mass :
  • oil present in the fatty phase (Gi) of the composition (F ′) which is in the form of an emulsion of oil-in-water type as defined above, denotes at meaning of the present invention chemicals or mixtures of chemicals insoluble in water, and having a liquid appearance at a temperature of 25 ° C.
  • wax present in the fatty phase (Gi) of the composition (F ′) in the form of an emulsion of oil-in-water type as defined above, is meant within the meaning of the present invention the substances chemicals or mixtures of chemicals which are insoluble in water and appear solid at a temperature of 45 ° C.
  • surfactant of oil-in-water (S'1) type present in the fatty phase (Gi) of composition (F ′) in the form of an emulsion of oil-in-water type such as defined above
  • surfactant of oil-in-water (S'1) type present in the fatty phase (Gi) of composition (F ′) in the form of an emulsion of oil-in-water type such as defined above
  • surfactant of oil-in-water type (S'1) present in the fatty phase (Gl) of emulsion (F ') of oil-in-water type as defined above there may be mentioned for example:
  • Polysorbates resulting from the ethoxylation reaction between a molar equivalent of sorbitan esters and between 5 and 20 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide and more particularly between a molar equivalent of sorbitan laurate, or of sorbitan palmitate, or of sorbitan stearate, or of sorbitan isostearate, or of sorbitan oleate, and between 5 and 20 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide, more particularly 5 or 10 or 12 or 15 or 20 molar equivalents of oxide ethylene;
  • a molar equivalent of a fatty acid such as for example palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic, and between 5 to 40 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide;
  • fatty phase (G1) denotes a fatty substance or a mixture of fatty substances insoluble in water and / or in mixtures of water and polar solvents.
  • a “fatty phase” can comprise oils and / or waxes as defined above.
  • constituent elements of the fatty phase (Gl) present in formulation (F ') mention may be made of the constituent oils of the fatty phase (A2) as described above for the preparation of formulation (F), and silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenyl-polysiloxanes, silicones modified with amines, silicones modified with fatty acids, silicones modified with alcohols, silicones modified with alcohols and fatty acids, silicones modified with polyether groups, epoxy modified silicones, silicones modified with fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified with alkyl groups.
  • silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenyl-polysiloxanes, silicones modified with amines, silicones modified with fatty acids, silicones modified with alcohols, silicones modified with alcohols and fatty acids, silicones modified with polyether groups, epoxy modified silicones, silicones modified with fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified with alkyl groups.
  • the fatty phase (Gl) further comprises, for 100% of its own mass, from 5% to 30% by mass, more particularly from 5% to 25% by mass, and even more particularly from 10% to 25% by mass of at least one agent for protecting against ultraviolet radiation from the sun.
  • agent for protecting against ultraviolet radiation from the sun denotes in particular in the definition of the composition (F ′) for topical use in the form of an emulsion of oil-in-water type and which is the subject of the present invention.
  • invention pigments, organic solar filters and inorganic solar filters.
  • pigments used as a protective agent against ultraviolet radiation from the sun there are for example titanium dioxide, brown iron oxides, yellow iron oxides, black iron oxides, or red iron oxides. or even white or colored pearlescent pigments such as Mica-Titanium.
  • organic solar filters used as a protective agent against ultraviolet radiation from the sun there are for example:
  • benzoic acid derivatives such as para-aminobenzoic acids (PABA), in particular monoglycerol esters of PABA, ethyl esters of N, N-propoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N, N-diethoxy PABA , esters ethyl esters of N, N-dimethyl PABA, methyl esters of N, N-dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of N, N-dimethyl PABA;
  • PABA para-aminobenzoic acids
  • salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanolphenyl salicylate;
  • cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate, p-cinnamate -methoxyisopropyl, p-methoxyisoamyl cinnamate, p-methoxyoctyl cinnamate (p-methoxy 2-ethylhexyl cinnamate), p-methoxy 2-ethoxyethyl cinnamate, p-methoxycyclohexyl cinnamate, cinnamate - ⁇ -cyano- -phenyl, 2-ethylhexyl- ⁇ -cyano- -phenyl cinnamate, glyceryl mono-2-ethylhexanoy
  • benzophenone derivatives such as 2,4-dihydroxy benzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy 4-methoxy benzophenone, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone, 2-hydroxy 4- methoxy benzophenone, 2-hydroxy 4-methoxy 4'-methyl benzophenone, 2-hydroxy 4-methoxy benzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenyl benzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl 4'-phenyl benzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy 4-n-octyloxy benzophenone, 4-hydroxy 3-carboxy benzophenone; 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) d, 1-camphor, 3- (benzylidene) -d, 1-camphor, benzalkonium methosulfate camphor; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate;
  • Those of the polysiloxane family such as benzylidene siloxane malonate.
  • solar inorganic filters used as a protective agent against ultraviolet radiation from the sun there are for example: titanium oxides, zinc oxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, iron oxides yellow, red or black, chromium oxides.
  • These mineral screens may or may not be micronized, may or may not have undergone surface treatments and may optionally be presented in the form of aqueous or oily pre-dispersions.
  • the agent for protecting against ultraviolet radiation from the sun will preferably be chosen from the elements of the group consisting of titanium dioxide, 2,4-dihydroxy benzophenone, 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, 2,4-bis ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy carbonyl) anilino] -1, 3,5-triazine and 2-ethylhexyl dimethoxy benzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate.
  • composition (E1) which is in the form of an emulsion of oil-in-water type as defined above, means that said composition is formulated to allow its application to the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes, whether it is a direct application in the case of a cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition or an indirect application for example in the case of a personal hygiene product in the form of a textile or paper wipe or of sanitary products intended to be in contact with the skin or the mucous membranes.
  • aqueous phase (Ai) of the composition (El) in the form of an emulsion of oil-in-water type means, according to the directive of the Council of the European Economic Community N ° 76/768 / EEC of July 27, 1976 amended by Directive N ° 93/35 / EEC of June 14, 1993, any substance or preparation intended to be in contact with the various parts of the body human (epidermis, hair and capillary system, nails, lips and genitals) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes with a view, exclusively and mainly, to clean them, to perfume them, to modify their appearance and / or to '' correct body odors and / or protect or maintain them in good condition.
  • compositions (F) and (F ') can be administered topically to reduce or eliminate inflammation of the skin and / or scalp.
  • the present invention relates to a composition (F) and a composition (F ') which can be administered by the topical route to eliminate or reduce the unsightly and / or symptomatic signs linked to the inflammation of sensitive human skin and / or. or of the scalp, for example redness, tightness, itching, tingling.
  • tingling and / or tingling and / or itching and / or heating and / or redness and / or skin discomfort and / or tightness accompany skin pathologies such as urticaria, eczematous dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, herpes, photodermatoses, atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, lichen, prurigos, pruritic diseases, fibrosis, collagen maturation disorders, scleroderma, eczema.
  • a lysate (LY) of dedifferentiated cells of the Helichrysum stoechas plant is prepared by carrying out the method described above, and more particularly by carrying out:
  • step a) of preparation of the sterile Helichrysum stoechas sample as described above, using leaves of Helichrysum stoechas cut into fragments of a few millimeters, then sterilized by successive passage:
  • the leaves are then rinsed in sterile distilled water three successive times.
  • step b) of callogenesis as described above, with a callogenesis medium, the constitution of which is described in Table 1 above, with a phase incubation lasting three weeks at a temperature of 20 to 25 ° C in the light.
  • step d) of selecting a fine suspension as described above with a sample of 1/6 to 1/4 of the culture obtained in step c), supplemented with a volume of suspension medium such as described in Table 2 and in a volume adjusted to the volume of inoculum available in the container.
  • the new suspension is cultured in a climatic chamber for a period of 14 days, at a temperature of 20 to 25 ° C., in daylight, stirred by stirring of the orbital type at a speed of 100 revolutions / minute.
  • step e) of production of biomass as described above with a sample of 1/6 to 1/4 of the medium obtained in step d) supplemented with a volume of suspension medium as described in the table 2, and in a volume adjusted to the volume of inoculum available in the container.
  • the new suspension is cultured in a climatic chamber for a period of 14 days in a wave bioreactor with a capacity of between 5 liters and 1000 liters, at a temperature of 20 to 25 ° C ° C, in daylight, stirred by orbital type stirring at a speed of 25 revolutions / minute.
  • a lysate (LY) is thus obtained comprising, for 100% of its mass:
  • the lysate as defined above and obtained by carrying out a process comprising steps a) to f) as described above makes it possible to resolve the inflammation of human skin, more particularly dry, reactive. and / or sensitive and thus maintain a good level of hydration helping to reduce the sensations of discomfort / tightness, thus making it possible to soothe and contribute to the comfort of human skin, more particularly dry, reactive and / or sensitive.
  • Lysate as defined above has been demonstrated using a co-culture model of human primary keratinocytes with denditritic cells.
  • Dendritic cells are part of the skin's immune system cells, and they are involved in the early inflammatory response. This model aims to mimic the interactions that occur naturally in the skin between keratinocytes and cells of the immune system, and it allows the impact of active ingredients on the inflammation resolution processes to be evaluated. Briefly, the normal human keratinocytes (NHEK) are seeded in inserts and cultured without contact with the dendritic cells (DC) seeded in the bottom of the wells. The cells are pre-treated with the CA composition OR glycerin.
  • the inflammatory stimulus mixture of phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (“PMA") and calcium ionophore A23187
  • PMA mixed phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate
  • PUFA polyunsaturated fatty acids
  • PUFA lipid precursors of inflammation mediators, eicosanoids
  • CA composition OR glycerol the compounds
  • the amount of 5-HETE (5-HydroxyEicosaTetraEnoic acid), pro-inflammatory mediator the amount of LTB4 (leukotriene B4), pro-inflammatory mediator the amount of 12-HETE (12-HydroxyEicosaTetraEnoic acid ), pro-resolving mediator the amount of 15-HETE (15-HydroxyEicosaTetraEnoic acid), pro-resolving mediator - the amount of 17-HDOHE ((+/-) - 17-Hydroxy-4Z, 7Z, 10Z, 13Z, 15E , 19Z-docosahexaenoic acid), pro-resolving mediator.
  • the quantities of 5-HETE, LTB4, 12-HETE, 15-HETE, 17-HDoHE are measured by carrying out an LC-MS / MS method using a UPLC system (Agilent LC1290 Infinity) coupled to a spectrometer Agilent 6490 triple quadrupole mass (Agilent Technologies) equipped with electrospray ionization operating in negative mode, and are expressed in picograms per culture well (pg / well).
  • % activation [mean (condition)] / [mean (stimulated cells)] x 100 - 100.
  • stimulated cells PMA / A23187 / PUFA treated cells in case the condition studied is treatment with glycerin.
  • stimulated cells PMA / A23187 / PUFA + 0.1% DMSO treated cells in the case where the condition studied is treatment with composition C A.
  • the statistical analysis was carried out by a Student test and a significance level was set at 5%, by comparing the conditions two by two. A difference between the effectiveness of two products was considered:
  • the CA composition is capable on the one hand of reducing the production of pro-inflammatory molecules and on the other hand of stimulating the secretion of several pro-resolving mediators and thus of promoting the resolution of inflammation (production of lipoxins , type D resolvins and protectins), thereby reducing inflammation and promoting a return to homeostasis.
  • This method involves applying and pressing a piece of duct tape (branded “D-Squame”) onto the surface of the skin, then removing it.
  • the first applications remove a complete cell layer of corneocytes.
  • the quantity of corneocytes decreases on the adhesive tape as the applications progress.
  • the “D-Squame” adhesive tapes are applied to the explants, ensuring that they are always made in the same place and in the same way, with constant thumb pressure.
  • the adhesive tape is then removed in a fluid, rapid and unidirectional movement in order to obtain a homogeneous removal of the corneocytes.
  • % restoration 100 x [average (Composition CA) - average (altered epidermis)] / [average (healthy epidermis) - average (altered epidermis)].
  • Explants exhibiting an altered barrier function are processed one hour later alteration of the barrier function, and every day for five days with a formulation (Fi) comprising 1% of the composition CA, and the mass constitution of which is as follows.
  • Montanov TM L (INCI name: C14-22 Alcohols & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside) is an emulsifying composition, intended to stabilize emulsions, and used for the preparation of cosmetic formulations.
  • Simulsol TM 165 (INCI name: PEG-100 Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate) is an emulsifying composition intended to stabilize emulsions, in particular oil-in-water emulsions, and used for the preparation of cosmetic formulations.
  • DUB TM DNPG (INCI name: Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate "is an ester used as a fatty phase and / or emollient agent for the preparation of cosmetic formulations.
  • Sepimax TM ZEN (INCI name: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) is a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte used as a thickening and / or emulsifying and / or stabilizing agent for the preparation of cosmetic formulations.
  • Sepinov TM EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer "is a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte used as a thickening and / or emulsifying and / or stabilizing agent for the preparation of cosmetic formulations.
  • Euxyl TM PE 9010 (INCI name: Phenoxylethanol - Ethylhexylglycerin) is a preservative used for the preparation of cosmetic formulations.
  • Sensiva TM PA40 (INCI name: 3-Phenylpropan-l-ol -Octane-l, 2-diol - Propane-l, 3-diol) is a preservative used for the preparation of cosmetic formulations.
  • the tissues are digested in an aqueous and organic mixture. Protein precipitation is carried out. Several successive extractions are then carried out to purify and concentrate the sample.
  • LC / MS-MS analysis was carried out on an UltiMate 3000 HPLC system (ThermoScientific) coupled to an MSQ Plus (ThermoScientific) mass spectrometer, equipped with ionization by electrospray operating in negative mode.
  • the CA composition is capable on the one hand of reducing the production of pro-inflammatory mediator PGE2 and on the other hand of stimulating the secretion of pro-resolving mediator 15-HETE and thus reducing inflammation and promoting the resolution of inflammation and thus the return to homeostasis.
  • the CA composition according to the invention comprising the lysate (Ly) of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoechas, is capable of reducing the sensations of discomfort associated with dry and / or sensitive and / or skin.
  • the lysate (Ly) of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoechas is capable of reducing the sensations of discomfort associated with dry and / or sensitive and / or skin.
  • Procedure Mix the different ingredients in water under magnetic stirring in the order indicated, and adjust the pH to around 7.
  • QS sodium hydroxide pH 7.2
  • Lactic acid Q.S. pH 6.0
  • a Composition (CA) 12.80%
  • Lactic acid Q.S. pH 6.0
  • Procedure mix all the ingredients of phase A and, after homogenization, add MONTALINE TM C40 and adjust the pH to approximately 6.0 using lactic acid.
  • Phase A and B formed by mixing the different constituents.
  • Lactic acid Q.S. pH 5.2
  • Procedure disperse the SEPIMAX TM ZEN in the water and agitate using a mechanical stirrer fitted with a deflocculator, a counter-helix and an anchor-type blade, until obtaining of a perfectly smooth gel. Add the SEPIPLUS TM S then stir until the mixture is homogeneous. Then add the ingredients of phase B, homogenize and add individually the additives of phase C. Adjust the pH to 6.0 - 6.5.
  • Phase B by mixing the various ingredients and homogenize using a mixer fitted with a rotor-stator system at a rotational speed of 4500 revolutions per minute, for a period of 6 minutes.
  • Phase C by adding SEPINOV TM EMT10 to the mixture of water and glycerol and homogenize using a mixer fitted with a rotor-stator system at a rotation speed of 4000 revolutions per minute for 4 minutes.
  • Add phases A and B to phase C and stir the resulting mixture using a mechanical stirrer fitted with an anchor-type paddle, at a speed of 30 revolutions per minute for 2 minutes, then at a speed of 50 revolutions per minute for 20 minutes.
  • Add the components of phase 5 one by one and stir at a speed of 50 revolutions per minute for 25 minutes.
  • SEPICALM TM S Mixture of N-cocoyl amino acids, sarcosine, potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate as described in WO 98/09611.
  • PROTEOL TM APL Mixture of sodium salts of N-cocoyl amino acids, obtained by acylation of amino acids characteristic of apple juice;
  • SEPICIDE TM HB Mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preservative.
  • SEPICIDE TM CI Imidazoline urea, is a preservative
  • SEPICIDE TM HB Mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and isobutylparaben, is a preservative;
  • SEPICALM TM VG Mixture of N-palmitoyl proline in the form of sodium salt and water lily flower extract Alba;
  • EUXYL TM PE9010 Mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethyl hexyl glycerin;
  • PROTEOL TM OAT Mixture of N-lauryl amino acids obtained by total hydrolysis of oat protein as described in WO 94/26694;
  • MONTALINE TM C40 Cocamidopropyl betainamide chloride salt of Monoethanolamine.
  • AMISOFT TM CS-ll Sodium salt of N-cocoyl glutamate;
  • SIMULSOL TM 165 Mixture of PEG-100 stearate and glycerol stearate; MONTANOV TM 202 (arachydilic alcohol, behenic alcohol and arachidyl glucoside), is a self-emulsifying composition such as those described in EP 0977 626; LANOL TM 99: Isononyl isononoate;
  • SEPIPLUS TM 400 Self-reversing reverse latex of polyacrylates in polyisobutene and comprising polysorbate 20, as described in WO2005 / 040230;
  • LIPACIDE TM C8G Capryloyl glycine sold by the company SEPPIC
  • MICROPEARL TM M310 Crosslinked polymethylmethacrylate polymer in powder form and used as a texture modifier
  • SEPIMAX TM Zen (INCI name: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6): Thickening polymer in the form of a powder;
  • SEPIPLUS TM S (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Polyisobutene & PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Cononut Ether): Self-reversing reverse latex;
  • AMONYL TM 265 BA (INCI name: Cocobetaine): amphoteric foaming surfactant;
  • SEPINOV TM EMT10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer): Thickening copolymer in the form of a powder;
  • EASYNOV TM (INCI name: Octyldodecanol and Octyldodecyl Xyloside and PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate): Emulsifying agent with a lipophilic tendency;
  • SEPIMAT TM H10 FW (INCI name: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer and Squalane): Polymer used as texture agent;
  • SEPITONIC TM M3 (INCI name: Magnesium Aspartate and Zinc Gluconate and Copper Gluconate): Mixture used as an anti-free radical and energizing agent for cells; MONTANOV TM L (INCI name: C14-22 Alcohols and C12-20 Alkylglucoside): Emulsifying agent; MONTANOV TM 82 (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol and Coco-glucoside): Emulsifying agent; SIMULGEL TM INS100 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloydimethyl Taurate Copolymer and isohexadecane and Polysorbate 60): Polymeric thickening agent;

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PCT/EP2021/053648 2020-02-17 2021-02-15 Lysat (ly) de cellules dedifferenciees de la plante helichrysum stoechas administrable par voie topique pour éliminer ou réduire l'inflammation de la peau WO2021165205A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
KR1020227031837A KR20220143075A (ko) 2020-02-17 2021-02-15 피부 염증을 제거하거나 감소시키기 위한 식물 헬리크리섬 스토에카스(Helichrysum stoechas)의 역분화 세포의 국소 투여가능한 용해물(Ly)
EP24152338.0A EP4349418A3 (fr) 2020-02-17 2021-02-15 Lysat (ly) de cellules dedifferenciees de la plante helichrysum stoechas administrable par voie topique pour éliminer ou réduire l'inflammation de la peau
EP21704808.1A EP4106784B1 (fr) 2020-02-17 2021-02-15 Lysat (ly) de cellules dedifferenciees de la plante helichrysum stoechas administrable par voie topique pour éliminer ou réduire l'inflammation de la peau
US17/800,187 US20240033207A1 (en) 2020-02-17 2021-02-15 Topically administrable lysate (ly) of dedifferentiated cells of the plant helichrysum stoechas for eliminating or reducing inflammation of the skin
CN202180021251.6A CN115348867B (zh) 2020-02-17 2021-02-15 用于消除或减轻皮肤炎症的植物法国腊菊去分化细胞的可局部施用裂解物(Ly)
JP2022549402A JP2023514304A (ja) 2020-02-17 2021-02-15 皮膚の炎症を解消又は低減するための植物ヘリクリサム・ストエカス（Ｈｅｌｉｃｈｒｙｓｕｍ ｓｔｏｅｃｈａｓ）の脱分化細胞の局所投与可能ライセート（Ｌｙ）

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FR2001548A FR3107184B1 (fr) 2020-02-17 2020-02-17 Lysat (Ly) de cellules dédifférenciées de la plante Helichrysum stoechas administrable par voie topique pour éliminer ou réduire l’inflammation de la peau
FR2001548 2020-02-17

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WO1994026694A1 (fr) 1993-05-17 1994-11-24 Givaudan Lavirotte Procede de preparation de melanges d'acides amines n-acyles
WO1998009611A1 (fr) 1996-09-09 1998-03-12 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques - Seppic Utilisation cosmetique de composes a structure lipoaminoacide et compositions cosmetiques a activite apaisante incorporant certains de ces composes
EP0977626A1 (fr) 1997-04-21 2000-02-09 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques, S.E.P.P.I.C. Composition a base d'alkylpolyglycosides et d'alcools gras, et ses utilisations
WO2002034793A2 (en) 2000-10-24 2002-05-02 Noveon Ip Holdings Corp. Rheology modifying copolymer composition
FR2837385A1 (fr) * 2002-03-20 2003-09-26 Rachid Ennamany Procede d'obtention de phytoalexines
WO2005040230A2 (fr) 2003-10-22 2005-05-06 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Nouveau latex inverse concentre, procede pour sa preparation, et utilisation dans l'industrie
FR3040625A1 (fr) * 2015-09-03 2017-03-10 Soc Ind Limousine D'application Biologique Principe actif cosmetique issu d'helichrysum stoechas et utilisation pour lutter contre le vieillissement de la peau
FR3079144A1 (fr) * 2018-03-20 2019-09-27 Laboratoires M&L Composition cosmetique comprenant une huile essentielle d'immortelle et un extrait huileux de dreches d'immortelle

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EP0977626A1 (fr) 1997-04-21 2000-02-09 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques, S.E.P.P.I.C. Composition a base d'alkylpolyglycosides et d'alcools gras, et ses utilisations
WO2002034793A2 (en) 2000-10-24 2002-05-02 Noveon Ip Holdings Corp. Rheology modifying copolymer composition
FR2837385A1 (fr) * 2002-03-20 2003-09-26 Rachid Ennamany Procede d'obtention de phytoalexines
WO2005040230A2 (fr) 2003-10-22 2005-05-06 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Nouveau latex inverse concentre, procede pour sa preparation, et utilisation dans l'industrie
FR3040625A1 (fr) * 2015-09-03 2017-03-10 Soc Ind Limousine D'application Biologique Principe actif cosmetique issu d'helichrysum stoechas et utilisation pour lutter contre le vieillissement de la peau
FR3079144A1 (fr) * 2018-03-20 2019-09-27 Laboratoires M&L Composition cosmetique comprenant une huile essentielle d'immortelle et un extrait huileux de dreches d'immortelle

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CN115348867A (zh) 2022-11-15
FR3107184A1 (fr) 2021-08-20
US20240033207A1 (en) 2024-02-01
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