WO2020237670A1

WO2020237670A1 - Cosmetic composition in the form of moldable and stretchable gel

Info

Publication number: WO2020237670A1
Application number: PCT/CN2019/089659
Authority: WO
Inventors: Shan Wu; Di Chen
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2019-05-31
Filing date: 2019-05-31
Publication date: 2020-12-03
Also published as: CN113873984A

Abstract

Provided is a cosmetic composition in the form of moldable and stretchable gel, comprising carrageenan and a polysaccharide selected from mannan and glucomannan in an aqueous phase in a weight ratio between 5: 95 and 60: 40. A cosmetic process for caring for skin is also provided, comprising stretching the cosmetic composition according to the present invention into a gel with suitable shape and size and applying said gel to the skin for a period of time.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF MOLDABLE AND STRETCHABLE GEL

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of moldable and stretchable gel.

BACKGROUND ART

Skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body form physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacterial, viruses or fungi) .

Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the underlying tissue. The keratin and collagen fibrous proteins form the skeleton of its structure. The outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum.

The development of formulations dedicated to caring for the skin is permanent. Said formulations have to show satisfactory properties in terms of application, such as easy usage, and also in terms of storage and transportation, such as easy to carry.

Current compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.

During travelling, the consumers need to carry the cosmetic compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials with them, for example a composition for cleansing the skin, especially the facial skin and neck.

Some cosmetic compositions are in contained in containers of large volume, for example a bottle of 200 ml. It is not convenient for consumers to take cosmetic composition contained in container of large volume.

Furthermore, if the cosmetic composition is in the form of emulsion and contained in a bottle of large volume, it is necessary to register luggage transportation if the consumer is travelling by plane, which is time-consuming.

In addition, during travelling, if the container is broken, the cosmetic composition will leak out and contaminate the substances around it.

For many cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsion, a surfactant is required for the stability of emulsions.

Sometimes, the consumers having oily skin wish to cleanse and refresh the skin while they are on-the-go but rarely have access to water, they will wish to have some products on hand and then they can use it conveniently.

Thus, there is a need for a cosmetic composition for caring for the skin can be easily and safely carried and transported.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by a unique combination of two specific gums.

Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of moldable and stretchable gel, comprising carrageenan and a polysaccharide selected from mannan and glucomannan in an aqueous phase in a weight ratio between 5: 95 and 60: 40.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of moldable and stretchable gel, thus it can be stretched to suitable shape and size, i.e., its shape is controllable. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be stretched to a size 10 times bigger than the original one without breakage.

It is convenient for the consumers to bring the moldable and stretchable gel.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can delivery cooling, hydrating, cleaning, softness, soothing effects and unique sensory.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can adhere to skin and be used as a facial wipe.

According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for skin, comprising stretching the cosmetic composition according to the present invention into a gel with suitable shape and size and applying said gel to the skin for a period of time.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “skin” is intended to cover human skin, Human skin, in particular skin of face, neck, back and hand is most particularly considered according to the present invention.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

The present invention may be better understood from reading the following detailed description, and with reference to the attached drawing, in which:

FIG. 1 shows the test mold for elongation test used in Example 2.

FIG. 2 shows the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be stretched to a size 10 times bigger than the original size.

FIG. 3 shows the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be stretched to a shape different from the original shape.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from... to... " .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of moldable and stretchable gel, comprising carrageenan and a polysaccharide selected from mannan and glucomannan in an aqueous phase in a weight ratio between 5: 95 and 60: 40.

Aqueous phase

The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C ₂ to C ₈ lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecu le comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any common water-soluble or water-dispersible additive as further illustrated below.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 30%to 99.5%by weight, preferably from 50%to 98%by weight, more preferably from 60%to 98%by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Carrageenan

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises carrageenan.

Carrageenans are sulfated polysaccharides which constitute the cell walls of various red algae, from which they may be obtained. Among these red algae mention may be made in a nonlimiting manner of Kappaphycus alvarezii, Eucheuma denticulatum, Eucheuma spinosum, Chondrus crispus, Betaphycus gelatinum, Gigartina skottsbergii, Gigartina canaliculata, Sarcothalia crispata, Mazzaella laminaroides, Hypnea musciformis, Mastocarpus stellatus and Iridaea cordata.

Carrageenans comprise long galactan chains formed by disaccharide units. These polysaccharides are composed of an alternation of (1→3) β-D-galactopyranose (G unit) and (1→4) α-galactopyranose (D unit) or 3, 6-anhydro-a-galactopyranose (AnGal unit) . Each sugar unit may be sulfated one or more times in position 2, 3, 4 or 6. Methyl and pyruvic acid groups may also be found, along with other sugar units grafted onto the base structures described previously. Carrageenans were initially subdivided into subfamilies as a function of their solubility in KCI and then according to the number and position of the sulfate groups and the presence of 3', 6'-anhydro bridges on the galactopyranosyl residues. At least 15 carrageenans are listed, the structure of which depends on the alga of origin and on the extraction method. Among the most common, mention may be made of the following carrageenans: μ-carrageenan ( (1→3) β-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate- (1→4) -α-D-galactopyranose-6-sulfate) , κ-carrageenan ( (1→3) β-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate- (1→4) 3, 6-anhydro-α-D-galactopyranose) , v-carrageenan ( (1→3) β-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate- (1→4) -α-D-galactopyranose-2, 6-disulfate) , τ-carrageenan ( (1→3) β-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate- (1→4) 3, 6-anhydro-α-D-galactopyranose-2-sulfatesulfate) ) , λ-carrageenan ( (1→3) β-D-galactopyranose-2-sulfate- (1→4) -α-D-galactopyranose-2, 6-disulfate) , θ-carrageenan ( (1→3) β-D-galactopyranose-2-sulfate- (1→4) 3, 6-anhydro-α-D-galactopyranose-2-sulfate.

These carrageenans may be obtained in the form of mixtures of different structures such as, in a non-limiting manner, mixtures of the κβ, κι and κμ forms.

Carrageenans that may be used may be selected especially from carrageenans of theμ, κ, v, ι or λθ type, and mixtures thereof in all proportions, preferably κ type.

Carrageenans that are particularly suitable for use in the invention are carrageenans of lambda, kappa or iota form, hybrids thereof, and mixtures thereof in all proportions. Use will be made especially of carrageenans of λ form, of K form and/or of ι form, or mixtures thereof, and in particular carrageenans derived from Chondrus crispus or Kappaphycus alvarezii.

The carrageenans of the present invention may be used in acid form or in salified form. Acceptable salts that may be mentioned in a non-limiting manner include lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium, zinc and ammonium salts or the salts obtained with an organic base counterion, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary (C1-C6) alkylamine, especially triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and may thus comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functions; mention may be made especially of amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine and dimethylamino-2-propanol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino) propylamine. These sulfated polysaccharides may also comprise a mixture of counterions among those defined above in a non-limiting manner.

The molecular weight of the carrageenans that are useful for the present invention is between 300 and 100 x 10 ⁶daltons. Their molecular weight is preferentially between 10x 10 ³ Da and 10x10 ⁶ Da.

The sulfur content of the carrageenans is preferentially between 5%and 25% (calculated on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the carrageenan) and more preferentially between 7%and 20%. Carrageenans may especially have a sulfur content from about 15%to 20%.

Preferably, carrageenans used in the invention predominantly comprise kappa (K) forms, or are in kappa (K) form. The term "predominantly" means that the percentage of this type of chain in the composition of the product is greater than or equal to 50%, this proportion possibly being greater than or equal to 80%in certain embodiments. Such carrageenans may especially be extracted from Chondrus crispus, such as those sold under the names Satiagum UTC 30 Carrageenan lamda Cargill, Satiagum UTC 10 Carrageenan lamda, and Cargill SATIAGEL ^TM UHD 300 by the company Cargill, under the name CARRAGEENAN BLK1120 by the company BLG and under the name of KA120LMO by the company Greenfresh.

Polysaccharide selected from mannan and glucomannan

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a polysaccharide selected from mannan and glucomannan.

Mannan suitable for the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a plant polysaccharide that is a linear polymer of the sugar mannose. Plant mannans have β (1-4) linkages. It is a form of storage polysaccharide. Ivory nut is a source of mannan.

Mannan may also be a cell wall polysaccharide found in yeasts. This type of mannan has a α (1-6) linked backbone and α (1-2) and α (1-3) linked branches. It is serologically similar to structures found on mammalian glycoproteins.

Glucomannan is a neutral polysaccharide produced by several plants where it plays a role of energy supply and in some cases of structural support. This polysaccharide is mainly made up of mannose residues with glucose as secondary sugar and it can contain acetylated residues and galactose in lateral chains. Primarily the most used source is glucomannan obtained by the bulb of Amorphophallus konjac which is a plant belonging to the Araceae family.

In a preferred embodiment, glucomannan is used in the composition according to the present invention.

As examples for commercial product of glucomannan useful in the composition according to the present invention, mention can be made to that sold under the name KONJAC GEL CKAA1220 by the company XieLi, and that sold under the name KONJAC FLOUR HWG1002 by the company BLG.

In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the weight ratio of carrogeenan to the polysaccharide selected from mannan and glucomannan, preferably glucomannan, is between 5: 95 and 60: 40, preferably between 5: 95 and 40: 60, more preferably between 10: 90 and 25: 75.

Preferably the total amount of carrageenan and the polysaccharide selected from mannan and glucomannan, preferably glucomannan, is from 0.4 to 3%by weight, preferably from 1%to 2.5%by weight, more preferably from 1.2%to 2.5%by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Active ingredients

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one active ingredient commonly used in cosmetic field.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprises at least one acitve agent having an effect on the skin, such antioxidants, free-radical scavengers, moisturizers, bleaching agents, liporegulators, anti-acne agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, anti-ageing agents, softeners, anti-wrinkle agents, keratolytic agents, anti-inflammatories, refreshing agents, cicatrizing agents, vascular protective agents, antibacterials, antifungals, antiperspirants, deodorants, skin conditioners, desensitizing agents, immunomodulators a nd nourishing agents, moisture absorbers (cotton, polyacrylate) , soothing active ingredients and sebum absorbing ingredients.

The cosmetic composition may include at least one water-soluble active agent chosen from ascorbic acid and its biologically compatible salts, enzymes, antibiotics, components having a tautening effect, α-hydroxy acids and their salts, hydroxylated polyacids, sucroses and their derivatives, urea, amino acids, oligopeptides, water-soluble plant and yeast extracts, protein hydrolysates, hyaluronic acid, mucopolysaccharides, vitamins B ₂, B ₆, H and PP, panthenol, folic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, allantoin, glycyrrhetic acid, kojic acid and hydroquinone.

In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one sebum-absorbing ingredient.

The sebum-absorbing ingredient may be inorganic or organic sebum-absorbing particles. The particles of one or more inorganic compounds used in the cosmetic composition may have different shapes, for example spheres, full or hollow, glitter, needles or platelets and preferably they are approximately spherical.

More precisely, the sebum-absorbing particles may be chosen from:

- silica powders,

- polyamide

powders,

- powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, poly (methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate) , poly (allyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate) , ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer,

- powders of silicone elastomer, obtained especially by polymerization of organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon atom and of an organopolysiloxane comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (especially two vinyl groups) in the presence of a platinum catalyst,

- polylactic acid,

- cellulose,

- talc,

- perlite

- clays, and

- a mixture thereof.

The sebum-absorbing particle may be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from fatty acids, for instance stearic acid; metal soaps, for instance aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, waxes, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

As non-limiting illustrations of sebum-absorbing particles according to the invention, mention may be made most particularly of the particles below.

Silicas that can be used may be natural and untreated. Mention may thus be made of the silicas provided under the names Sillitin N85, Sillitin N87, Sillitin N82, Sillitin V85 and Sillitin V88 by Hoffmann Mineral.

They may be fumed silicas.

The fumed silicas can be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing finely divided silica. This process makes it possible especially to obtain hydrophilic silicas which contain a large number of silanol groups at their surface. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the said silica via a chemical reaction which brings about a reduction in the number of silanol groups. It is possible especially to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups; a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups can be:

(a) trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995) ;

(b) dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as “Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995) .

Silica powders that may more particularly be mentioned include:

- the porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 by Miyoshi;

H51,

H33 by Asahi Glass;

- the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name SA

H33 and SA

H53 by Asahi Glass;

- the precipitated silica microspheres, for example coated with inorganic wax such as polyethylene, and sold especially under the name Acematt OK 412 by Evonik Degussa

- Silica silylate, such as DC VM-2270 sold by the company DOW CORNING and KTL 10 sold by the company TOKUYAMA.

Acrylic polymer powder that may be mentioned included:

Acrylate copolymer powder, such as EXPANCEL 551 sold by the company AKZO NOBEL;

Laurylmethacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer powder, such as Polytrap 6603 sold by the company AMCOL HEALTH&BEAUTY SOLUTIONS;

Polymethyl methacrylate, such as SEPIMAT H10 sold by the company MATSUMOTO YUSHI-SEIYAKU.

A Nylon powder that may be mentioned is the Nylon powder sold under the name

4000 by Atochem.

The silicone elastomers are especially elastomeric partially or completely crosslinked organopolysiloxanes, having a three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names

and

by SHIN-ETSU, Trefil

and Trefil

by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-

SR

SR-

SR

SR DMF 10

and SR DC 556

by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF

and JK

by GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Silicone elastomer powders that may be mentioned include the powders sold under the names "

Powder E-505C" and "

Powder E-506C" by Dow Corning.

As silicone powder, gum beads of crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin may be mentioned, especially sold under the name KSP100 by Shin Etsu, silicone resin powders in the form of rugby balls such as especially the product sold under the name NLK-602 by TAKEMOTO.

As polylactic acid, mention can be made to TORAYPEARL PLA sold by the company TORAY INDUSTRIES.

As cellulose powder, mention can be made to CELLULOBEADS USF sold by the company DAITO KASEI.

Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, shiny light-grey or black in colour, which results from the rapid cooling of lava and which is provided in the shape of small particles resembling pearls.

The perlite particles used according to the invention are especially commercially available from World Minerals Europe under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550 or Perlite P2040. These particles are sold as mattifying agents for paints. They are presented in the form of a white powder having a crystalline silica content below 0.1%by weight.

Preferably, the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50%of the particles have a size of less than 25 μm, preferably of less than 20 μm. In addition, they preferably have a particle size distribution such that 90%by weight of the particles have a size of less than 55 μm and preferably of less than 40 μm. Furthermore, it is preferable for 90%by weight of the particles to have a size of greater than 5 μm.

Boron nitride particles may be mentioned, such as PUHP1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics, UHP-1010 by Carborundum, Ronaflair Extender by Merck, Covalumine Atlas White AS by Sensient, Boroneige 601 by ESK, PUHP3008 by Saint Gobain Ceramics.

Clays are products that are already well known per se, which are described, for example, in the publication Minéralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of Clays] , S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson.

Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the family of vermiculites, stevensite and chlorites.

The clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin fibres such as the hair are used.

The clay can be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite and their mixtures. Preferably, the clay is a bentonite or a hectorite.

The clays may be chosen from organophilic clays.

The organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the organophilic clays according to the invention are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines.

Organophilic clays that may be mentioned include quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by Elementis, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst, and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27V by Elementis, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay and quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by Southern Clay.

The organophilic clay is particularly chosen from modified hectorites such as the hectorite modified by C ₁₀-C ₁₂ fatty acid ammonium chloride, especially distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride.

The clays are especially chosen from montmorillonites and kaolin.

Particularly preferred particles that absorb sebum are silica powders, especially silica powders especially precipitated and more specifically precipitated silica coated with wax, boron nitride, acrylic polymer powders.

Preferably, the particles have a number-average size of between 50 nm and 350 microns, better still between 100 nm and 100 microns and even more preferentially between 0.5 and 100 microns.

In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises Thermal water or other soothing active ingredients, so as to delivery soothing effect for sensitive skin.

Adjuvants

In a known manner, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may also contain one or more adjuvants that are common in cosmetics or dermatology.

Examples of adjuvants that may be mentioned include preservative agent, fillers, fragrances, pigments, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises pigment selected to allow visualization of at least one of impurities and residues taken from skin when the cosmetic composition is applied to and/or removed from skin. The use of pigment is preferably for cosmetic compositions that provide a cleansing action that contain, for example, sebum absorbing ingredient, since it provides the user with feedback regarding the frequency and nature of the cleansing being performed.

In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present includes one or more preserving agents.

Suitable preservative agent include, but are not limited to, glycerin containing compounds (e.g., glycerin and/or ethylhexylglycerin and/or phenoxyethanol) , benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc. ) , sodium benzoate, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , potassium sorbate, and/or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the composition. Other preservatives are known in the cosmetics industries and include salicylic acid, DMDM Hydantoin, Formaldahyde, Chlorphenism, Triclosan, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Sorbic Acid, Methylisothiazolinone, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Quaternium-15, Stearalkonium Chloride, Zinc Pyrithione, Sodium Metabisulfite, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polyaminopropyl biguanide, Benzalkonium Chloride, Sodium Sulfite, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, Neem Oil, Essential Oils (various) , Lactic Acid, and Vitamin E (tocopherol) .

These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.01%to 30%of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

These adjuvants and the concentrations thereof must be such that they do not jeopardize the desired properties for the composition of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of moldable and stretchable gel, comprising carrageenan and a polysaccharide selected from mannan and glucomannan, preferably glucomannan, in an aqueous phase in a weight ratio between 10: 90 and 25: 75 and the total amount of carrageenan and the polysaccharide selected from mannan and glucomannan, preferably glucomannan, is from 1.2%to 2.5%by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Method and use

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application and can especially constitute a composition intended for caring for skin.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be in the form of patch.

The cosmetic composition is stretchable. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be stretched to a size 10 times bigger than the original one without breakage.

The stretchability can be characterized by elongation with a tensile strength tester.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used as a disposable wipe.

Thus, in another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for skin, comprising stretching the cosmetic composition according to the present invention into a gel with suitable shape and size and applying said gel to the skin for a period of time.

Depending on the type of active ingredient in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention, the application time varies from a few seconds to about several minutes.

In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used for absorbing sebum from the skin, catching dirt from the skin, soothing the skin, cooling the skin, and/or hydration of the skin.

The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.

The percentages are weight percentages by active ingredient, or active matters.

In the examples that follow, the weight percentages are indicated relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Examples

Example 1: Preparation of cosmetic compositions according to invention and comparative formulas

The cosmetic compositions according to invention formulas (inv. ) 1-6 and comparative formula (comp. ) 1-3 listed in the table below were prepared:

Preparation process:

The cosmetic compositions listed above are prepared as follows:

1) Heat water to 80℃ in a kettle,

2) Add hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, copper gluconate, all water soluble active ingredients or preservative ingredients, if exist, one by one into the kettle,

3) If it is difficult for the oil absorb powder (for example silica silylate) to solve into water phase, mix polyol and oil absorb powder together, get a paste-like mixture, add the mixture into the kettle,

4) Mix carrageenan, glucomannan with glycerin to a paste-like mixture, add the mixture into the kettle,

5) Keep stirring at a low speed, and maintain the temperature at 80℃ for 30 minutes, and

6) Remove bubble while stirring.

If the manufactory equipment has good mix/stirring ability, it’s possible to simplify the whole process as follows:

1) Add water soluble Raw material into water one by one, then heat to 80℃;

2) Add carrageenan, glucomannan to water phase;

3) Keep stirring at low speed for short time to make sure the gum powder blend well, maintain the temperature at 80℃ for 30 minutes; and

4) Remove bubble while stirring.

Example 2: evaluation of cosmetic compositions of invention and comparative formulas

The stretchability can be characterized by elongation with a Fabric tensile strength tester from the company Tinius Olsen.

The elongation refers to the maximum elongation without breakage.

The test was performed as follows:

1. Printing test mold of 10 cm in length as shown in Fig. 1 with a 3D printer;

2. Preparing the cosmetic as mentioned in Example 1;

3. Filling the hot cosmetic composition in the test mold;

4. Cooling the cosmetic composition to obtain the test sample;

5. Determining the elongation with the tensile strength tester.

The results of elongation of the cosmetic compositions according to invention formulas and comparative formula were listed below.

	Elongation (%)	Stretchable or not
Inv. 1	150%	YES
Inv. 2	190%	YES
Inv. 3	210%	YES
Inv. 4	200%	YES
In. 5	220%	YES
Inv. 6	>300%	YES
Comp. 1	20%	WEAK
Comp. 2	0	NO
Comp. 3	0	NO

Furthermore, the cosmetic composition in the form of gel of Invention formula 1 with an original size of 16 cm ² was stretched by hand to evaluate its stretchability.

Fig. 2 shows the cosmetic composition of Invention formula 6 can be stretched to a size 10 times bigger than the original size.

FIG. 3 shows the cosmetic composition of Invention formula 6 can be stretched to a shape different from the original shape.

It can be seen that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is stretchable.

Consumer panel test (n=60) shows cosmetic compositions according to invention formulas 1-6 provide cooling, hydrating, cleaning, softness, and soothing feeling to the skin.

Claims

A cosmetic composition in the form of moldable and stretchable gel, comprising carrageenan and a polysaccharide selected from mannan and glucomannan in an aqueous phase in a weight ratio between 5: 95 and 60: 40.
Cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the carrageenan is selected from carrageenans of the μ, κ, v, i or λθ type, and mixtures thereof in all proportions, preferably carrageenans of κ type.
Cosmetic composition of claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of carrageenan to the polysaccharide selected from mannan and glucomannan, preferably glucomannan, is between 5: 95 and 40: 60, more preferably between 10: 90 and 25: 75.
Cosmetic composition of claim 2 or 3, wherein the total amount of carrageenan and the polysaccharide selected from mannan, preferably glucomannan, is from 0.4 to 3%by weight, preferably from 1%to 2.5%by weight, more preferably from 1.2%to 2.5%by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 further comprising at least one active ingredient selected from antioxidants, free-radical scavengers, moisturizers, bleaching agents, liporegulators, anti-acne agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, anti-ageing agents, softeners, anti-wrinkle agents, keratolytic agents, anti-inflammatories, refreshing agents, cicatrizing agents, vascular protective agents, antibacterials, antifungals, antiperspirants, deodorants, skin conditioners, desensitizing agents, immunemodulators and nourishing agents, moisture absorbers, soothing active ingredients and sebum absorbing ingredients.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 further comprising at least one water-soluble active agent chosen from ascorbic acid and its biologically compatible salts, enzymes, antibiotics, components having a tautening effect, α-hydroxy acids and their salts, hydroxylated polyacids, sucroses and their derivatives, urea, amino acids, oligopeptides, water-soluble plant and yeast extracts, protein hydrolysates, hyaluronic acid, mucopolysaccharides, vitamins B ₂, B ₆, H and PP, panthenol, folic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, allantoin, glycyrrhetic acid, kojic acid and hydroquinone.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 further comprising one or more adjuvants selected from preserving agents, fillers, fragrances, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water and optionally one or more C ₂ to C ₈ lower polyols or monoalcohols.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 30%to 99.5%by weight, preferably from 50%to 98%by weight, more preferably from 60%to 98%by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
A cosmetic composition in the form of moldable and stretchable gel, comprising carrageenan and a polysaccharide selected from mannan and glucomannan, preferably glucomannan, in an aqueous phase in a weight ratio between 10: 90 and 25: 75 and the total amount of carrageenan and the polysaccharide selected from mannan and glucomannan, preferably glucomannan, is from 1.2%to 2.5%by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
A cosmetic process for caring for skin, comprising stretching the cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 10 into a gel with suitable shape and size and applying said gel to the skin for a period of time.