WO2021237691A1 - Deformable solid composition for cleansing the skin - Google Patents

Deformable solid composition for cleansing the skin Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021237691A1
WO2021237691A1 PCT/CN2020/093324 CN2020093324W WO2021237691A1 WO 2021237691 A1 WO2021237691 A1 WO 2021237691A1 CN 2020093324 W CN2020093324 W CN 2020093324W WO 2021237691 A1 WO2021237691 A1 WO 2021237691A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
gum
composition according
skin
hydrophilic
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2020/093324
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Shan Wu
Mei Zhang
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2020/093324 priority Critical patent/WO2021237691A1/en
Priority to CN202080101515.4A priority patent/CN115551460A/en
Priority to FR2007526A priority patent/FR3110839B1/en
Publication of WO2021237691A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021237691A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042Gels
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008Preparations for oily skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48Thickener, Thickening system

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention relates to a deformable solid composition for cleansing the skin.
  • Skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body form physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacterial, viruses or fungi) .
  • Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the underlying tissue.
  • the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins form the skeleton of its structure. The outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum.
  • formulations dedicated to caring for the skin are permanent. Said formulations have to show satisfactory properties in terms of application, such as easy usage, and also in terms of storage and transportation, such as easy to carry.
  • compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • the cosmetic composition is in the form of emulsion and contained in a bottle of large volume, it is necessary to register luggage transportation if the consumer is travelling by plane, which is time-consuming.
  • the cosmetic composition will leak out and contaminate the substances around it.
  • the present invention provides a deformable solid composition for cleansing the skin, comprising water and at least one hydrophilic thickener, the composition has an aqueous gel texture, wherein the composition has a gel strength greater than 6.5 g, a rupture strength greater than 80 g and a rupture distance greater than 7 mm.
  • the composition according to the present invention has an aqueous gel texture, thus it can deliver a hydration feeling. Meanwhile, the composition can maintain its original shape during transportation or being taking out from the container therefore, does not break during application and could catch dirt and oil sebum from different parts of the skin (including the corner parts or folded parts) due to its deformability.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used to clean dirt and oil sebum from the skin without using water.
  • the present invention provides a process for cleansing the skin, comprising rolling and moving the composition according to the present invention on the skin.
  • skin is intended to cover human skin.
  • Human skin in particular skin of face, neck, back or other body parts is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
  • the present invention provides a deformable solid composition for cleansing the skin, comprising water and at least one hydrophilic thickener, the composition has an aqueous gel texture, wherein the composition has a gel strength greater than 6.5 g, a rupture strength greater than 80 g and a rupture distance greater than 7 mm.
  • the deformable solid composition according to the present invention can have any original shape.
  • the original shape can be ball, cube, oval, cylinder, etc.
  • the gel strength greater than 6.5 g can ensure that the solid composition will not break during transportation or being taking out from the container therefor.
  • the gel strength of the composition according to the present invention is greater than 10 g, even greater than 15 g, or greater than 20 g.
  • the rupture strength greater than 80 g can ensure that the solid composition will not break during being stretched to suitable shape and size.
  • the rupture strength of the composition according to the present invention is greater than 90 g, even greater than 100 g, or greater than 150 g.
  • the rupture distance greater than 7 mm can ensure that the solid composition can be deformed to reach corner parts or folded parts of the skin with friendly control and application gesture.
  • the rupture distance of the composition according to the present invention is greater than 10 mm.
  • the gel strength, the rupture strength and the rupture distance can be characterized with a texture analyzer (TA. XT. Plus, Stable Micro System from the company Luton Science equipped with 50 kg sensor) as follows.
  • TA. XT. Plus Stable Micro System from the company Luton Science equipped with 50 kg sensor
  • the instrument was operated in compression mode, one measurement cycle. Ajar filled with a sample was positioned under texture analyzer’s probe. Each test was performed by initially lowering the probe with a pre-test speed to the surface of the sample. After touching the surface and sensing a trigger force, the probe produces an additional deformation of the sample to target distance, then rises to the initial height.
  • the rupture strength of the sample denotes the first peak force in the plot of force vs. distance, while the rupture distance of the ample is the corresponding distance of the first peak.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic thickener (also known as an aqueous-phase-thickening polymer) .
  • hydrophilic thickener there is no particular limitation to the hydrophilic thickener.
  • hydrophilic thickener may be selected from the following compounds:
  • Examples that may be mentioned in particular include the products sold under the names Versicol F or Versicol K by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8 by the company Ciba-Geigy, Cosmedia SP by the company BASF, Lecigel (mixture of sodium acrylates copolymer/lecithin) by the company Lucas Meyer Cosmetics; polyacrylic acids of Synthalen K type, and salts, especially sodium salts, of polyacrylic acid (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride) sold under the name Luvigel EM.
  • Versicol F or Versicol K by the company Allied Colloid
  • Ultrahold 8 by the company Ciba-Geigy
  • Cosmedia SP by the company BASF
  • Lecigel mixture of sodium acrylates copolymer/lecithin
  • Lecigel mixture
  • polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, most particularly acrylate/C10-C30-alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylate/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020 and even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2; copolymers of methacrylic acid, of methyl methacrylate, of methylstyrene isocyanate and of PEG-40 behenate (INCI name: polyacrylate-3) (Viscophobe DB 1000 sold by the company Dow) ,
  • - copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate for instance the acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer especially such as the product used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS by the company SEPPIC, or the acrylamido methylpropanesulfonic acid/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer especially such as the product used in the commercial product sold under the name Sepinov EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer) ;
  • hydrophilic thickener may be selected from:
  • cellulose polymers in particular (C 1 -C 3 ) hydroxyalkylcelluloses, selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and quatemized derivatives of cellulose;
  • vinyl polymers for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol,
  • polymers of natural origin such as galactomannans and derivatives thereof, for instance konjac gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum and derivatives thereof (carboxymethyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) ) , xanthan gum and derivatives thereof;
  • carrageenans for example, carrageenans of the ⁇ , ⁇ , v, ⁇ or ⁇ type, and mixtures thereof in all proportions, preferably ⁇ type;
  • the thickening polymer is selected from xanthan gum, carrageenan gum, konjac gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl gum, locust beam gum and carboxymethylcellulose.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises carrageenan gum and konjac gum as hydrophilic gums.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises xanthan gum and konjac gum as hydrophilic gums.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises hyroxypropyl guar as hydrophilic gum.
  • composition according to the present invention may further comprise a cross-linking agent.
  • cross-linking agent examples include sodium borate.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises hydroxypropyl guar as hydrophilic gum and borax as cross-linking agent.
  • the skilled in the art can adjust the amount and/or type of the thickening agent and/or the cross-linking agent to obtain the composition according to the present invention.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises carrageenan gum and konjac gum as hydrophilic gums, the total amount of carrageenan gum and konjac gum is from 1.4 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises xanthan gum and konjac gum as hydrophilic gums, the total amount of xanthan gum and konjac gum is from 1.4 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises hydroxypropyl guar as hydrophilic gum, the amount of hydroxypropyl guar is from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises hydroxypropyl guar as hydrophilic gum and borax as cross-linking agent, the amount of hydropropyl guar is from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may further comprises additional components.
  • water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds for improving hydration feeling for instance C 2 to C 8 lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • examples of polyols include glycols, for instance pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
  • sebum-absorbing ingredient As additional components, mention can be also made of sebum-absorbing ingredient.
  • the sebum-absorbing ingredient may be inorganic or organic sebum-absorbing particles.
  • the particles of one or more inorganic compounds used in the composition may have different shapes, for example spheres, full or hollow, glitter, needles or platelets and preferably they are approximately spherical.
  • the sebum-absorbing particles may be selected from:
  • acrylic polymers especially of polymethyl methacrylate, poly (methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate) , poly (allyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate) , ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer,
  • the sebum-absorbing particle may be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.
  • the hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids, for instance stearic acid; metal soaps, for instance aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty acids for instance stearic acid
  • metal soaps for instance aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate
  • amino acids amino acids
  • N-acylamino acids or salts thereof lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • Silicas that can be used may be natural and untreated. Mention may thus be made of the silicas provided under the names Sillitin N85, Sillitin N87, Sillitin N82, Sillitin V85 and Sillitin V88 by Hoffmann Mineral.
  • They may be fumed silicas.
  • the fumed silicas can be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing finely divided silica. This process makes it possible especially to obtain hydrophilic silicas which contain a large number of silanol groups at their surface. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the said silica via a chemical reaction which brings about a reduction in the number of silanol groups. It is possible especially to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups; a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
  • hydrophobic groups can be:
  • Silica powders that may more particularly be mentioned include:
  • the precipitated silica microspheres for example coated with inorganic wax such as polyethylene, and sold especially under the name Acematt OK 412 by Evonik Degussa
  • Acrylic polymer powder that may be mentioned included:
  • Acrylate copolymer powder such as EXPANCEL 551 sold by the company AKZO NOBEL;
  • Laurylmethacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer powder such as Polytrap 6603 sold by the company AMCOL HEALTH & BEAUTY SOLUTIONS;
  • Polymethyl methacrylate such as SEPIMAT H10 sold by the company MATSUMOTO YUSHI-SEIYAKU.
  • Nylon powder that may be mentioned is the Nylon powder sold under the name 4000 by Atochem.
  • the silicone elastomers are especially elastomeric partially or completely crosslinked organopolysiloxanes, having a three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names and by SHIN-ETSU, Trefil and Trefil by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR SR 5CYC SR DMF 10 and SR DC 556 by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF and JK by GENERAL ELECTRIC.
  • Silicone elastomer powders that may be mentioned include the powders sold under the names " Powder E-505C” and “ Powder E-506C” by Dow Corning.
  • silicone powder gum beads of crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin may be mentioned, especially sold under the name KSP100 by Shin Etsu, silicone resin powders in the form of rugby balls such as especially the product sold under the name NLK-602 by TAKEMOTO.
  • TORAYPEARL PLA sold by the company TORAY INDUSTRIES.
  • Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, shiny light-grey or black in colour, which results from the rapid cooling of lava and which is provided in the shape of small particles resembling pearls.
  • the perlite particles used according to the invention are especially commercially available from World Minerals Europe under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550 or Perlite P2040. These particles are sold as mattifying agents for paints. They are presented in the form of a white powder having a crystalline silica content below 0.1%by weight.
  • the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50%of the particles have a size of less than 25 ⁇ m, preferably of less than 20 ⁇ m.
  • they preferably have a particle size distribution such that 90%by weight of the particles have a size of less than 55 ⁇ m and preferably of less than 40 ⁇ m.
  • 90%by weight of the particles it is preferable for 90%by weight of the particles to have a size of greater than 5 ⁇ m.
  • Boron nitride particles may be mentioned, such as PUHP1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics, UHP-1010 by Carborundum, Ronaflair Extender by Merck, Covalumine Atlas White AS by Sensient, Boroneige 601 by ESK, PUHP3008 by Saint Gobain Ceramics.
  • Clays are products that are already well known per se, which are described, for example, in the publication Minéralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of Clays] , S. Caillère, S. Hismen, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson.
  • Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.
  • Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the family of vermiculites, stevensite and chlorites.
  • the clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin fibres such as the hair are used.
  • the clay can be selected from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite and their mixtures.
  • the clay is a bentonite or a hectorite.
  • the clays may be selected from organophilic clays.
  • the organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organophilic clays according to the invention are clays modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines.
  • Organophilic clays that may be mentioned include quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by Elementis, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst, and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27V by Elementis, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay and quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by Southern Clay.
  • quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by Elementis, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst, and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern Clay
  • stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27V by Elementis, Tixogel LG by
  • the organophilic clay is particularly selected from modified hectorites such as the hectorite modified by C 10 -C 12 fatty acid ammonium chloride, especially distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • the clays are especially selected from montmorillonites and kaolin.
  • Particularly preferred particles that absorb sebum are silica powders, especially silica powders especially precipitated and more specifically precipitated silica coated with wax, boron nitride, acrylic polymer powders.
  • the particles have a number-average size of between 50 nm and 350 microns, better still between 100 nm and 100 microns and even more preferentially between 0.5 and 100 microns.
  • composition of the present invention may also contain one or more adjuvants that are common in cosmetics or dermatology.
  • adjuvants examples include preservative agent, fillers, fragrances, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises pigment selected to allow visualization of at least one of impurities and residues taken from skin when the composition is applied to and/or removed from skin.
  • pigment is preferably for compositions that provide a cleansing action that contain, for example, sebum absorbing ingredient, since it provides the user with feedback regarding the frequency and nature of the cleansing being performed.
  • composition according to the present includes one or more preserving agents.
  • Suitable preservative agent include, but are not limited to, glycerin containing compounds (e.g., glycerin and/or ethylhexylglycerin and/or phenoxyethanol) , benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc. ) , sodium benzoate, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , potassium sorbate, and/or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the composition.
  • glycerin containing compounds e.g., glycerin and/or ethylhexylglycerin and/or phenoxyethanol
  • parabens methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben,
  • preservatives are known in the cosmetics industries and include salicylic acid, DMDM Hydantoin, Formaldahyde, Chlorphenism, Triclosan, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Sorbic Acid, Methylisothiazolinone, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Quaternium-15, Stearalkonium Chloride, Zinc Pyrithione, Sodium Metabisulfite, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polyaminopropyl biguanide, Benzalkonium Chloride, Sodium Sulfite, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, Neem Oil, Essential Oils (various) , Lactic Acid, and Vitamin E (tocopherol) .
  • adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.01%to 30%of the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application, especially for cleaning dirt and oil sebum from the skin.
  • composition according to the present invention have an aqueous gel texture and can have any original shape.
  • the original shape can be ball, cube, oval, cylinder, etc.
  • the container for the composition of the present invention is not limited, which can be any suitable for storage of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention can be rolled and massaged on the skin.
  • the composition has a gel strength greater than 6.5 g, a rupture strength greater than 80 g and a rupture distance greater than 7mm. Therefore, the composition can maintain its original shape during transportation or being taking out from the container therefor, does not break during application and could adhere to different parts of the skin (including the corner parts or folded parts) due to its deformability.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used as a disposable cleanser.
  • the present invention provides a process for cleansing the skin, comprising rolling and moving the composition according to the present invention on the skin.
  • the composition is deformed during cleansing the skin so as to catch dirt and oil sebum from different parts of the skin.
  • the process according to the present invention may further comprises deforming the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used for absorbing sebum from the skin, catching dirt from the skin, soothing the skin, cooling the skin, and/or hydration of the skin.
  • the percentages are weight percentages by active ingredient, or active matters.
  • Example 1 Preparation of compositions according to invention and comparative formulas
  • compositions according to invention formulas (Inv. ) 1-8 and comparative formulas (Comp. ) 1-5 listed in Tables 3-6 were prepared:
  • compositions listed above were prepared as follows:
  • the gel strength, the rupture strength and the rupture distance of the gels obtained in Example 1 can be characterized with a texture analyzer (TA. XT. Plus, Stable Micro System from the company Luton Science equipped with 50 kg sensor) as described previously.
  • TA. XT. Plus Stable Micro System from the company Luton Science equipped with 50 kg sensor
  • YES means that the gel tested breaks during transportation or being taking out from the container therefor or being stretched to suitable
  • NO means that the gel tested breaks during transportation or being taking out from the container therefor or being stretched to suitable
  • composition according to invention formulas 1-8 do not break during storage, transportation and usage, have good deformation capacity and dirt and oil sebum removeability.
  • consumer panel test shows that compositions according to invention formulas 1-8 provide a hydration feeling to the skin.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
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Abstract

A deformable solid composition for cleansing the skin comprises water and at least one hydrophilic thickener. The composition has an aqueous gel texture with gel strength greater than 6.5 g, rupture strength greater than 80 g and rupture distance greater than 7 mm. A process for cleansing the skin comprises rolling and moving the composition on the skin.

Description

Deformable solid composition for cleansing the skin TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a deformable solid composition for cleansing the skin.
BACKGROUND ART
Skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body form physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacterial, viruses or fungi) .
Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the underlying tissue. The keratin and collagen fibrous proteins form the skeleton of its structure. The outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum.
The development of formulations dedicated to caring for the skin is permanent. Said formulations have to show satisfactory properties in terms of application, such as easy usage, and also in terms of storage and transportation, such as easy to carry.
Current compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.
During travelling or hanging out, there is a need for consumers to carry the cosmetic compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials with them, for example a composition for cleansing the skin, especially the facial skin and neck.
However, some cosmetic compositions are contained in containers of large volume, for example a bottle of 200 ml. It is not convenient for consumers to take cosmetic composition contained in container of large volume.
Furthermore, if the cosmetic composition is in the form of emulsion and contained in a bottle of large volume, it is necessary to register luggage transportation if the consumer is travelling by plane, which is time-consuming.
In addition, during travelling, if the container is broken, the cosmetic composition will leak out and contaminate the substances around it.
Besides, sometimes, the consumers having oily skin wish to clean dirt and oil sebum from the skin while they rarely have access to water, they will wish to have some products on hand and then they can use it conveniently.
Thus, there is a need for a composition for cleaning the skin, which can be easily and safely carried and transported and can deliver cleansing effect conveniently without using water.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by the present invention.
Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention provides a deformable solid composition for cleansing the skin, comprising water and at least one hydrophilic thickener, the composition has an aqueous gel texture, wherein the composition has a gel strength greater than 6.5 g, a rupture strength greater than 80 g and a rupture distance greater than 7 mm.
The composition according to the present invention has an aqueous gel texture, thus it can deliver a hydration feeling. Meanwhile, the composition can maintain its original shape during transportation or being taking out from the container therefore, does not break during application and could catch dirt and oil sebum from different parts of the skin (including the corner parts or folded parts) due to its deformability.
It is convenient for the consumers to bring such an deformable solid composition.
The composition according to the present invention can be used to clean dirt and oil sebum from the skin without using water.
According to another aspect, the present invention provides a process for cleansing the skin, comprising rolling and moving the composition according to the present invention on the skin.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and" and "from... to... " .
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment  wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “skin” is intended to cover human skin. Human skin, in particular skin of face, neck, back or other body parts is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.
According to one aspect, the present invention provides a deformable solid composition for cleansing the skin, comprising water and at least one hydrophilic thickener, the composition has an aqueous gel texture, wherein the composition has a gel strength greater than 6.5 g, a rupture strength greater than 80 g and a rupture distance greater than 7 mm.
The deformable solid composition according to the present invention can have any original shape. For example, the original shape can be ball, cube, oval, cylinder, etc.
The gel strength greater than 6.5 g can ensure that the solid composition will not break during transportation or being taking out from the container therefor.
In some embodiments, the gel strength of the composition according to the present invention is greater than 10 g, even greater than 15 g, or greater than 20 g.
The rupture strength greater than 80 g can ensure that the solid composition will not break during being stretched to suitable shape and size.
In some embodiments, the rupture strength of the composition according to the present invention is greater than 90 g, even greater than 100 g, or greater than 150 g.
The rupture distance greater than 7 mm can ensure that the solid composition can be deformed to reach corner parts or folded parts of the skin with friendly control and application gesture.
In some embodiments, the rupture distance of the composition according to the present invention is greater than 10 mm.
The gel strength, the rupture strength and the rupture distance can be characterized  with a texture analyzer (TA. XT. Plus, Stable Micro System from the company Luton Science equipped with 50 kg sensor) as follows.
The instrument was operated in compression mode, one measurement cycle. Ajar filled with a sample was positioned under texture analyzer’s probe. Each test was performed by initially lowering the probe with a pre-test speed to the surface of the sample. After touching the surface and sensing a trigger force, the probe produces an additional deformation of the sample to target distance, then rises to the initial height.
For the gel strength measurement, the following experimental protocol (Table 1) was employed to collect the data, the gel strength of the sample denotes the force at 4 mm in the plot of force vs. distance.
Table 1. TA experimental parameters for gel strength measurement
Type of probe P/0.5
Pre-test speed 1.5mm/sec
Test speed 1.0mm/sec
Post-test speed 1.0mm/sec
Target mode Distance
Distance 10mm
Trigger force 3.0g
For rupture strength and rupture distance measurement, the following experimental protocol (Table 2) was employed to collect the data. The rupture strength of the sample denotes the first peak force in the plot of force vs. distance, while the rupture distance of the ample is the corresponding distance of the first peak.
Table 2. TA experimental parameters for rupture strength and distance measurement
Type of probe P/5
Pre-test speed 60mm/min
Test speed 250mm/min
Post-test speed 600mm/min
Target mode Distance
Distance 25mm
Trigger force 3.0g
Hydrophilic thickeners
According to one aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic thickener (also known as an aqueous-phase-thickening polymer) .
There is no particular limitation to the hydrophilic thickener.
For example, the hydrophilic thickener may be selected from the following compounds:
(i) homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts thereof and esters thereof
Examples that may be mentioned in particular include the products sold under the names Versicol F or Versicol K by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8 by the company Ciba-Geigy, Cosmedia SP by the company BASF, Lecigel (mixture of sodium acrylates copolymer/lecithin) by the company Lucas Meyer Cosmetics; polyacrylic acids of Synthalen K type, and salts, especially sodium salts, of polyacrylic acid (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride) sold under the name Luvigel EM.
Mention may also be made of polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, most particularly acrylate/C10-C30-alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylate/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020 and even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2; copolymers of methacrylic acid, of methyl methacrylate, of methylstyrene isocyanate and of PEG-40 behenate (INCI name: polyacrylate-3) (Viscophobe DB 1000 sold by the company Dow) ,
(ii) copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide
Mention may be made of those in the form of the sodium salt thereof sold under the Reten names by the company Hercules, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name Darvan No. 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F by the company Henkel.
(iii) homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid
Mention may be made of for instance:
- polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked, for example the product Hostacerin AMPS sold in particular by the company Clariant,
- copolymers of acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid/acrylamide for example of Sepigel or Simulgel type sold especially by the company SEPPIC,
- polyoxyethylenated acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid/alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) of the type such as, inter alia, Aristoflex HMS and Aristoflex TAC, sold by the company Clariant,
- copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer  especially such as the product used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS by the company SEPPIC, or the acrylamido methylpropanesulfonic acid/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer especially such as the product used in the commercial product sold under the name Sepinov EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer) ;
- copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product Aristoflex AVC (ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer in water) sold by the company Clariant; and
- mixtures thereof.
Alternatively, the hydrophilic thickener may be selected from:
- anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;
- cellulose polymers, in particular (C 1-C 3) hydroxyalkylcelluloses, selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and quatemized derivatives of cellulose;
- vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol,
- optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as galactomannans and derivatives thereof, for instance konjac gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum and derivatives thereof (carboxymethyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) ) , xanthan gum and derivatives thereof;
- alginates and carrageenans, for example, carrageenans of the μ, κ, v, ι or λθ type, and mixtures thereof in all proportions, preferably κ type;
- mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid;
- and mixtures thereof.
According to some embodiments, the thickening polymer is selected from xanthan gum, carrageenan gum, konjac gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl gum, locust beam gum and carboxymethylcellulose.
According to some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises carrageenan gum and konjac gum as hydrophilic gums.
According to some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises xanthan gum and konjac gum as hydrophilic gums.
According to some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises hyroxypropyl guar as hydrophilic gum.
In order to increase the gel strength, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise a cross-linking agent.
As Examples of cross-linking agent, mention can be made of sodium borate.
According to one embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises hydroxypropyl guar as hydrophilic gum and borax as cross-linking agent.
Under the teaching of the present description, the skilled in the art can adjust the amount and/or type of the thickening agent and/or the cross-linking agent to obtain the composition according to the present invention.
In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises carrageenan gum and konjac gum as hydrophilic gums, the total amount of carrageenan gum and konjac gum is from 1.4 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises xanthan gum and konjac gum as hydrophilic gums, the total amount of xanthan gum and konjac gum is from 1.4 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises hydroxypropyl guar as hydrophilic gum, the amount of hydroxypropyl guar is from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises hydroxypropyl guar as hydrophilic gum and borax as cross-linking agent, the amount of hydropropyl guar is from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
As commercial product of carrageenans, mention can be made of those sold under the names Satiagum UTC 30 Carrageenan lamda Cargill, Satiagum UTC 10 Carrageenan lamda, and Cargill SATIAGEL TMUHD 300 by the company Cargill, under the name CARRAGEENAN BLK120 by the company BLG and under the name of KA120LMO by the company Greenfresh.
As commercial product of konjac gum, mention can be made of that sold under the name KONJAC GEL CKAA1220 by the company XieLi, and that sold under the name KONJAC FLOUR HWG1002 by the company BLG.
As commercial product of xanthan gum, mention can be made of that sold under the name KELTROL CG or KELTROL CG-T by the company CP KELCO; and under the name RHODICARE XC by the company PMC OUVRIE.
As commercial product of hydroxypropyl guar, mention can be made ofthat sold under the name JAGUAR HP 105 SGI by RHODIA (SOLVAY) .
Additional components
In addition to water and the hydrophilic thickener mentioned above, the composition of the present invention may further comprises additional components.
As additional components, mention can be made of water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds for improving hydration feeling, for instance C 2 to C 8 lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols include glycols, for instance pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
As additional components, mention can be also made of sebum-absorbing ingredient.
The sebum-absorbing ingredient may be inorganic or organic sebum-absorbing particles. The particles of one or more inorganic compounds used in the composition may have different shapes, for example spheres, full or hollow, glitter, needles or platelets and preferably they are approximately spherical.
More precisely, the sebum-absorbing particles may be selected from:
- silica powders,
- polyamide
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000001
powders,
- powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, poly (methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate) , poly (allyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate) , ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer,
- powders of silicone elastomer, obtained especially by polymerization of organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon atom and of an organopolysiloxane comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (especially two vinyl groups) in the presence of a platinum catalyst,
- polylactic acid,
- cellulose,
- talc,
- carbon black,
- perlite
- clays, and
- a mixture thereof.
The sebum-absorbing particle may be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.
The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids, for instance stearic acid; metal soaps, for instance aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, waxes, and mixtures thereof.
The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
As non-limiting illustrations of sebum-absorbing particles according to the invention, mention may be made most particularly of the particles below.
Silicas that can be used may be natural and untreated. Mention may thus be made of the silicas provided under the names Sillitin N85, Sillitin N87, Sillitin N82, Sillitin V85 and Sillitin V88 by Hoffmann Mineral.
They may be fumed silicas.
The fumed silicas can be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing finely divided silica. This process makes it possible especially to obtain hydrophilic silicas which contain a large number of silanol groups at their surface. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the said silica via a chemical reaction which brings about a reduction in the number of silanol groups. It is possible especially to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups; a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
The hydrophobic groups can be:
(a) trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995) ;
(b) dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as “Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995) .
Silica powders that may more particularly be mentioned include:
- the porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 by Miyoshi; 
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000002
H51, 
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000003
H33 by Asahi Glass;
- the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name SA
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000004
H33 and SA
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000005
H53 by Asahi Glass;
- the precipitated silica microspheres, for example coated with inorganic wax such as polyethylene, and sold especially under the name Acematt OK 412 by Evonik Degussa
- Silica silylate, such as DC VM-2270 sold by the company DOW CORNING and KTL 10 sold by the company TOKUYAMA.
Acrylic polymer powder that may be mentioned included:
Acrylate copolymer powder, such as EXPANCEL 551 sold by the company AKZO NOBEL;
Laurylmethacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer powder, such as Polytrap 6603 sold by the company AMCOL HEALTH & BEAUTY SOLUTIONS;
Polymethyl methacrylate, such as SEPIMAT H10 sold by the company MATSUMOTO YUSHI-SEIYAKU.
A Nylon powder that may be mentioned is the Nylon powder sold under the name 
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000006
4000 by Atochem.
The silicone elastomers are especially elastomeric partially or completely crosslinked organopolysiloxanes, having a three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000007
and
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000008
by SHIN-ETSU, Trefil
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000009
and Trefil
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000010
by DOW-CORNING, Gransil
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000011
SR
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000012
SR 5CYC
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000013
SR DMF 10
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000014
and SR DC 556
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000015
by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000016
and JK
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000017
by GENERAL ELECTRIC.
Silicone elastomer powders that may be mentioned include the powders sold under the names "
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000018
Powder E-505C" and "
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000019
Powder E-506C" by Dow Corning.
As silicone powder, gum beads of crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin may be mentioned, especially sold under the name KSP100 by Shin Etsu, silicone resin powders in the form of rugby balls such as especially the product sold under the name NLK-602 by TAKEMOTO.
As polylactic acid, mention can be made to TORAYPEARL PLA sold by the company TORAY INDUSTRIES.
As cellulose powder, mention can be made to CELLULOBEADS USF sold by the company DAITO KASEI.
Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, shiny light-grey or black in colour, which results from the rapid cooling of lava and which is provided in the shape of small particles resembling pearls.
The perlite particles used according to the invention are especially commercially available from World Minerals Europe under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550 or Perlite P2040. These particles are sold as mattifying agents for paints. They are presented in the form of a white powder having a crystalline silica content below 0.1%by weight.
Preferably, the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50%of the particles have a size of less than 25μm, preferably of less than 20μm. In addition, they preferably have a particle size distribution such that 90%by weight of the particles have a size of less than 55μm and preferably of less than 40μm. Furthermore, it is preferable for 90%by weight of the particles to have a size of greater than 5μm.
Boron nitride particles may be mentioned, such as PUHP1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics, UHP-1010 by Carborundum, Ronaflair Extender by Merck, Covalumine Atlas White AS by Sensient, Boroneige 601 by ESK, PUHP3008 by Saint Gobain Ceramics.
Clays are products that are already well known per se, which are described, for example, in the publication Minéralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of Clays] , S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson.
Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the family of vermiculites, stevensite and chlorites.
The clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin fibres such as the hair are used.
The clay can be selected from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite and their mixtures. Preferably, the clay is a bentonite or a hectorite.
The clays may be selected from organophilic clays.
The organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the organophilic clays according to the invention are clays modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines.
Organophilic clays that may be mentioned include quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by Elementis, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst, and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27V by Elementis, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay and quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by Southern Clay.
The organophilic clay is particularly selected from modified hectorites such as the hectorite modified by C 10-C 12 fatty acid ammonium chloride, especially distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride.
The clays are especially selected from montmorillonites and kaolin.
Particularly preferred particles that absorb sebum are silica powders, especially silica powders especially precipitated and more specifically precipitated silica coated with wax, boron nitride, acrylic polymer powders.
Preferably, the particles have a number-average size of between 50 nm and 350 microns, better still between 100 nm and 100 microns and even more preferentially between 0.5 and 100 microns.
Adjuvants
In a known manner, the composition of the present invention may also contain one or more adjuvants that are common in cosmetics or dermatology.
Examples of adjuvants that may be mentioned include preservative agent, fillers, fragrances, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
In an embodiment, the composition comprises pigment selected to allow visualization of at least one of impurities and residues taken from skin when the composition is applied to and/or removed from skin. The use of pigment is preferably for compositions that provide a cleansing action that contain, for example, sebum absorbing ingredient, since it provides the user with feedback regarding the frequency and nature of the cleansing being performed.
In an embodiment, the composition according to the present includes one or more preserving agents.
Suitable preservative agent include, but are not limited to, glycerin containing compounds (e.g., glycerin and/or ethylhexylglycerin and/or phenoxyethanol) , benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc. ) , sodium benzoate, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , potassium sorbate, and/or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the composition. Other preservatives are known in the cosmetics industries and include salicylic acid, DMDM Hydantoin, Formaldahyde, Chlorphenism, Triclosan, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Sorbic Acid, Methylisothiazolinone, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Quaternium-15, Stearalkonium Chloride, Zinc Pyrithione, Sodium Metabisulfite, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polyaminopropyl biguanide, Benzalkonium Chloride, Sodium Sulfite, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, Neem Oil, Essential Oils (various) , Lactic Acid, and Vitamin E (tocopherol) .
These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.01%to 30%of the total weight of the composition.
These adjuvants and the concentrations thereof must be such that they do not jeopardize the desired properties for the composition of the present invention.
Method and use
The composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application, especially for cleaning dirt and oil sebum from the skin.
The composition according to the present invention have an aqueous gel texture and can have any original shape. For example, the original shape can be ball, cube, oval, cylinder, etc.
The container for the composition of the present invention is not limited, which can be any suitable for storage of the composition.
The composition of the present invention can be rolled and massaged on the skin.
The composition has a gel strength greater than 6.5 g, a rupture strength greater than 80 g and a rupture distance greater than 7mm. Therefore, the composition can maintain its original shape during transportation or being taking out from the container therefor, does not break during application and could adhere to different parts of the skin (including the corner parts or folded parts) due to its deformability.
The composition according to the present invention can be used as a disposable cleanser.
Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention provides a process for cleansing the skin, comprising rolling and moving the composition according to the present invention on the skin.
Optionally, the composition is deformed during cleansing the skin so as to catch dirt and oil sebum from different parts of the skin.
Therefore, the process according to the present invention may further comprises deforming the composition.
In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be used for absorbing sebum from the skin, catching dirt from the skin, soothing the skin, cooling the skin, and/or hydration of the skin.
The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.
The percentages are weight percentages by active ingredient, or active matters.
In the examples that follow, the weight percentages are indicated relative to the total weight of the composition.
Examples
Example 1: Preparation of compositions according to invention and comparative  formulas
The compositions according to invention formulas (Inv. ) 1-8 and comparative formulas (Comp. ) 1-5 listed in Tables 3-6 were prepared:
Table 3
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000020
Table 4
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000021
Table 5
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000022
Table 6
INCI NAME Comp. 4 Comp. 5
CARRAGEENAN (BLK120 from BLG) 0.8 1.2
DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 5 5
PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 0.5
BUTYLENE GLYCOL 10. 10
WATER QS100 QS100
GLYCERIN 8 8.
Preparation process:
The compositions listed above were prepared as follows:
1) heating water to 80℃ in a kettle;
2) adding all water-soluble active ingredients or preservatives ingredients one by one;
3) mixing carrageenan or mannan or Xanthum gum (if presents) with polyalcohol together to get a paste mixture, then adding the mixture into the kettle;
4) stirring at a low speed while maintaining the temperature at 80℃ for 15-30min.
If a crosslinking agent was used to get a hydrogel formula, the process will be:
1) adding water to a kettle, heating if necessary;
2) dispersing active ingredients, preservatives, gums into the kettle one by one;
3) adding the crosslinking agent to the kettle when the gum is dispersed well and homogeneously.
All of the compositions obtained present a gel texture.
Example 2: evaluation of compositions of invention and comparative formulas
The gel strength, the rupture strength and the rupture distance of the gels obtained in Example 1 can be characterized with a texture analyzer (TA. XT. Plus, Stable Micro System from the company Luton Science equipped with 50 kg sensor) as described previously.
The deformation capacity and the dirt and oil sebum removeability of the gels obtained in Example 1 were evaluated as follows:
i) putting one or two patches of the gel to be tested on the skin of each person of a panel of 20 females (20-40 years old) ,
ii) pressing and rolling the gel for 2 minutes,
iii) scoring on the deformation capacity of the gel based on whether it is easy to reach corner parts or folded parts of the skin with friendly control and application gesture according to the following standards:
5: very easy;
4: easy;
3: not easy;
2: difficult;
1: very difficult;
iv) scoring on the dirt and oil sebum removeability based on the appearance of the skin according to the following standards:
5: excellent;
4: good;
3: acceptable;
2: poor;
1: very poor.
The gel strength, the rupture strength and the rupture distance of the compositions according to invention formulas and comparative formula, whether the compositions break during storage or transportation or usage, the deformation capacity and the dirt and oil sebum removeability of the compositions were summarized in Table 7 below.
Table 7
Figure PCTCN2020093324-appb-000023
Break or not*: YES means that the gel tested breaks during transportation or being taking out from the container therefor or being stretched to suitable, NO means that the gel tested breaks during transportation or being taking out from the container therefor or being stretched to suitable
It can be seen from the results that the composition according to invention formulas 1-8 do not break during storage, transportation and usage, have good deformation capacity and dirt and oil sebum removeability.
In addition, consumer panel test (n=20) shows that compositions according to invention formulas 1-8 provide a hydration feeling to the skin.

Claims (14)

  1. A deformable solid composition for cleansing the skin, comprising water and at least one hydrophilic thickener, the composition has an aqueous gel texture, wherein the composition has a gel strength greater than 6.5 g, a rupture strength greater than 80 g and a rupture distance greater than 7 mm.
  2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the gel strength is greater than 10 g.
  3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the rupture strength is greater than 100 g.
  4. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the rupture distance is greater than 10 mm.
  5. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the hydrophilic thickener is selected from:
    - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;
    - cellulose polymers, in particular (C 1-C 3) hydroxyalkylcelluloses, selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and quatemized derivatives of cellulose;
    - vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol,
    - optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as galactomannans and derivatives thereof, for instance konjac gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, carboxymethyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups, xanthan gum and derivatives thereof;
    - alginates and carrageenans, for example, carrageenans of the μ, κ, ν, ι or λθ type, and mixtures thereof in all proportions, preferably κ type;
    - mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid; and
    - mixtures thereof.
  6. Composition according to claim 5, wherein the hydrophilic thickener is selected from xanthan gum, carrageenan gum, konjac gum, hydroxypropyl guar and carboxymethylcellulose.
  7. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises a cross-linking agent.
  8. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition comprises xanthan gum and konjac gum as hydrophilic gums, the total amount of xanthan gum and konjacgum is from 1.4 wt. %to 10wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  9. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition comprises hydroxypropyl guar as hydrophilic gum, the amount of hydroxypropyl guar is from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  10. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition comprises hydroxypropyl guar as hydrophilic gum and borax as cross-linking agent, the amount of hydroxypropyl guar is from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition further comprises at least one C 2-C 8 polyol or monoalcohol.
  12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition further comprises at least one sebum-absorbing ingredient.
  13. A process for cleansing the skin, comprising rolling and moving the composition according to any of claims 1-12 on the skin.
  14. The process according to claim 13, further comprises deforming the composition.
PCT/CN2020/093324 2020-05-29 2020-05-29 Deformable solid composition for cleansing the skin WO2021237691A1 (en)

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FR2007526A FR3110839B1 (en) 2020-05-29 2020-07-17 DEFORMABLE SOLID COMPOSITION TO CLEAN THE SKIN

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Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000006609A1 (en) * 1998-07-30 2000-02-10 Hercules Incorporated Carrageenan compositions, and processes for their production
WO2008121762A1 (en) * 2007-03-28 2008-10-09 The United States Of America, As Represented By The Secretary Of Agriculture Semi-rigid gel cleansing article and uses thereof

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
BR0012232A (en) * 1999-07-06 2002-04-02 Procter & Gamble Preformed Gel Sheet
FR3002448B1 (en) * 2013-02-25 2015-04-03 Oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF GEL TYPE
MY190915A (en) * 2017-03-31 2022-05-19 Sekisui Plastics Gel sheet

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000006609A1 (en) * 1998-07-30 2000-02-10 Hercules Incorporated Carrageenan compositions, and processes for their production
WO2008121762A1 (en) * 2007-03-28 2008-10-09 The United States Of America, As Represented By The Secretary Of Agriculture Semi-rigid gel cleansing article and uses thereof

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