WO2020130153A1 - Compositions cosmétiques avec gouttelettes visibles comprenant des polysaccharides et un sel métallique - Google Patents

Compositions cosmétiques avec gouttelettes visibles comprenant des polysaccharides et un sel métallique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020130153A1
WO2020130153A1 PCT/JP2019/050230 JP2019050230W WO2020130153A1 WO 2020130153 A1 WO2020130153 A1 WO 2020130153A1 JP 2019050230 W JP2019050230 W JP 2019050230W WO 2020130153 A1 WO2020130153 A1 WO 2020130153A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
polysaccharide
weight
composition according
gum
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PCT/JP2019/050230
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English (en)
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Yao DU
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2020130153A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020130153A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/733—Alginic acid; Salts thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for treating skin, comprising at least one linear polysaccharide, at least two branched
  • polysaccharides and at least one metal salt as well as a cosmetic process using the same.
  • compositions which appeal to consumers on account of their aesthetic nature exist currently on the market. These compositions consist of two mutually immiscible phases, therefore consumers need to mix the two phases together extemporaneously, for example by shaking the container before use. In order to skip this bothersome shaking step, stably maintaining the two phases in a mixed form in the container by means of natural
  • WO2015/089750 A1 discloses a Pickering emulsion comprising a dispersed fatty phase, a continuous aqueous phase with low amount of alcohol, at least one hydrophobic particle, and at least one polysaccharide, wherein the oil droplets are visible and that has longterm stability.
  • the oils that can be used in the dispersed fatty phase are limited to silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils, and a mixture thereof.
  • alcohol and hydrophobic particles are necessary, which may cause discomfort to the consumers.
  • DE10111536A1 describes a combination of gellan gum, xanthan gum and surfactant to suspend liquid droplets in a normal emulsion. However, the droplets of the emulsion are not mentioned as being visible.
  • US6,162,447A describes a microstructured (0.05-1000 microns) composition which contains oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase comprising a P-l,3-glucan with a certain molecular weight, excluding compositions comprising a surfactant.
  • the composition itself is mainly a gel-type composition for which the fluidity is greatly decreased, and therefore it does not have sufficient fresh skin feel upon application.
  • the objective of the present invention is to solve the above problems of the prior art and to provide a novel composition having visible droplets with smooth, comfortable fresh skin feel and good stability, and with no limitations to the oils to be used in the composition.
  • composition containing droplets in a continuous phase comprising: (a) an aqueous phase comprising water and:
  • the (i) first polysaccharide may be selected from gellan gum, alginic acid and a salt thereof such as sodium alginate, pectin, carrageenan such as kappa-carrageenan, linear dextrin, mucopolysaccharides (glycosaminoglycans) such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, cellulose and derivatives thereof such as carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and may be preferably gellan gum.
  • alginic acid and a salt thereof such as sodium alginate, pectin, carrageenan such as kappa-carrageenan, linear dextrin
  • mucopolysaccharides glycosaminoglycans
  • hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate cellulose and derivatives thereof such as carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose,
  • the (ii) second polysaccharide and the (iii) third polysaccharide may be selected from heteropolysaccharides consisting of at least two constituents selected from glucose, galactose, mannose, xylose, rhamnose, arabinose, and glucuronic acid.
  • the (ii) second polysaccharide and the (iii) third polysaccharide may be polysaccharides selected from galactomannans such as fenugreek gum, guar gum, tara gum, and locust bean gum, and polysaccharides such as xanthan gum, tamarind gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, gum arabic, branched dextrin, and succinoglycan, and may be preferably locust bean gum and xanthan gum.
  • the total amount of the polysaccharides in the composition may be from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the (ii) second polysaccharide to the (iii) third polysaccharide may be from 1 :10 to 10:1, preferably from 1 :5 to 5:1, more preferably from 1 :3 to 3:1, and most preferably 1:1.
  • the (iv) metal salt may be selected from polyvalent metal salts, preferably divalent metal salts, more preferably calcium salts such as calcium chloride and calcium pyrrolidone carboxylate.
  • the (iv) metal salt may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) fatty phase may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the median particle size by volume Dv50 of the droplets in the composition may be in the range from 10 pm to 10000 pm, preferably in the range from 50 pm to 5000 pm, more preferably in the range from 100 pm to 3000 pm.
  • the aqueous phase is the continuous phase and the fatty phase is in the form of droplets.
  • the composition may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, more preferably a make-up remover.
  • the composition may be intended for treating a keratin substance such as skin, lips, or eyelashes, preferably for cleansing the keratin substance, more preferably for removing makeup from the keratin substance.
  • a keratin substance such as skin, lips, or eyelashes
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance, such as skin, lips, or eyelashes, preferably for conditioning the keratin substance or for cleansing or removing make-up from the keratin substance, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance and optionally rinsing off said composition.
  • a cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance such as skin, lips, or eyelashes, preferably for conditioning the keratin substance or for cleansing or removing make-up from the keratin substance, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance and optionally rinsing off said composition.
  • composition according to the present invention contains droplets in a continuous phase, and comprises:
  • composition according to the present invention can contain any kinds of oil, and regardless of the kind of the oil to be used, the specific combination of polysaccharides and a metal salt according to the present invention can confer smooth texture, comfortable fresh skin feel, and good stability to the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used for treating a keratin substance such as skin, preferably for cleansing the keratin substance, more preferably for removing make-up from the keratin substance.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises at least three polysaccharides.
  • polysaccharide here means, in a broad definition, compounds consisting of 10 or more monosaccharides linked to one another via glycosidic bonds.
  • the composition comprises (i) a first polysaccharide selected from linear polysaccharides, (ii) a second polysaccharide selected from branched polysaccharides, and (iii) a third polysaccharide selected from branched polysaccharides, where the third polysaccharide is different from the second polysaccharide. Two or more polysaccharides for each one of (i) to (iii) may be used.
  • the polysaccharide used in the composition of the present invention may be selected from natural polysaccharides such as polysaccharides derived from plants (e.g. seeds, sap, fruits), polysaccharides derived from algae, and polysaccharides produced by microorganisms. Polysaccharides obtained by modification of such natural polysaccharides may be also used in the composition of the present invention. Polysaccharide may also contain non-saccharide constituents including organic acids such as carboxylic acid, succinic acid, and pyruvic acid.
  • natural polysaccharides such as polysaccharides derived from plants (e.g. seeds, sap, fruits), polysaccharides derived from algae, and polysaccharides produced by microorganisms. Polysaccharides obtained by modification of such natural polysaccharides may be also used in the composition of the present invention. Polysaccharide may also contain non-saccharide constituents including organic acids such as carboxylic acid, succinic acid, and pyruvic
  • composition according to the present invention contains (i) a first polysaccharide selected from linear polysaccharides.
  • linear here means, when used for polysaccharides, that the polysaccharide has no side chain or branch containing at least one saccharide. In other words, each monosaccharide unit in the linear polysaccharide chain contains only one or two glycosidic bond(s).
  • the linear polysaccharides that may be comprised in the composition according to the present invention may be selected from any conventional linear polysaccharides that are used in the field of cosmetics.
  • linear polysaccharides are: gellan gum, alginic acid and a salt thereof such as sodium alginate, pectin, carrageenan such as kappa-carrageenan, linear dextrin, mucopolysaccharides (glycosaminoglycans) such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, cellulose and derivatives thereof, such as carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose.
  • gellan gum is preferred.
  • Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolysaccharide based on oligosaccharide units composed of D-glucose, L-rhamnose, and D-glucuronic acid in 2/1/1 proportions.
  • Gellan gum is obtained from a culture of the bacterium Sphingomonas elodea.
  • the molecular weight of gellan gum can vary, but is approximately from 2 x 10 5 to 2 x 10 6 .
  • a typical structure of gellan gum is as shown below.
  • the amount of the linear polysaccharide in the composition is 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the linear polysaccharide in the composition is 2% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the linear polysaccharide may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention contains (ii) a second polysaccharide and (iii) a third polysaccharide selected from branched polysaccharides, where the third polysaccharide is different from the second polysaccharide.
  • branched here means, when used for polysaccharides, that the polysaccharide has at least one side chain or branch containing at least one saccharide.
  • the branched polysaccharides that may be comprised in the composition according to the present invention may be selected from any conventional polysaccharides that are used in the field of cosmetics.
  • the branched polysaccharide may be heteropolysaccharide.
  • heteropolysaccharide here means a polysaccharide consisting of two or more kinds of monosaccharides.
  • the branched polysaccharides is selected from heteropolysaccharides consisting of at least two constituents selected from glucose, galactose, mannose, xylose, rhamnose, arabinose, and glucuronic acid.
  • composition according to the present invention may contain at least one branched polysaccharide selected from galactomannans.
  • Galactomannans are nonionic polysaccharides extracted from the albumin of seeds of leguminous plants, of which they constitute the storage carbohydrate.
  • Galactomannans consist of a main chain of D-mannopyranose (mannose) units connected in b(1,4) fashion, carrying side branches consisting of a single D-galactopyranose (galactose) unit connected in cc(l,6) fashion to the main chain.
  • Galactomannans are basically nonionic, but may be modified to produce cationic galactomannans such as cationic guar gum and cationic locust bean gum.
  • galactomannans with different mannose/galactose (M/G) ratio are known.
  • locust bean gum is preferable for the branched polysaccharide used in the composition according to the present invention.
  • Locust bean gum is extracted from the seeds of the carob tree ( Ceratonia siliqua).
  • locust bean is a branched heteropolysaccharide based on oligosaccharide units composed of mannose and galactose in 4/1 proportions.
  • the molecular weight of locust bean gum can vary, but is approximately from 5 x 10 4 to 3 x 10 6 .
  • a typical structure of locust bean gum is as shown below.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one branched polysaccharide selected from xanthan gum, tamarind gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, gum arabic, branched dextrin, and succinoglycan.
  • xanthan gum is preferred.
  • Xanthan gum is a branched heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure is composed of a main chain of b-D-glucoses connected in b(1,4) manner. One glucose molecule out of two bears a trisaccharide side chain composed of oc-D-mannose, of a b-D-glucuronic acid and of a terminal b-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. Approximately 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6.
  • the glucuronic acids and the charged pyruvic acids are ionizable and thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to pH 1).
  • the content of the pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the post-fermentation conditions and the purification stages. These groups can be neutralized in the commercial products with Na + , K + or Ca 2+ ions.
  • the neutralized form can be converted into the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis with an acid solution.
  • Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 x 10 6 and 5 x 10 7 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition comprising 1% of xanthan gum
  • a preferred combination of the branched polysaccharides used in the composition of the present invention is locust bean gum and xanthan gum.
  • the amount of the branched polysaccharide in the composition is 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the branched polysaccharide in the composition is 2% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the branched polysaccharide may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the (ii) second polysaccharide to the (iii) third polysaccharide is 1 : 10 or more, preferably 1 :5 or more, more preferably from 1 :3 or more.
  • the weight ratio of the (ii) second polysaccharide to the (iii) third polysaccharide is 10:1 or less, preferably 5:1 or less, more preferably 3:1 or less.
  • the weight ratio of the (ii) second polysaccharide to the (iii) third polysaccharide is from 1 :10 to 10:1, preferably from 1:5 to 5:1, more preferably from 1:3 to 3:1, and most preferably 1:1.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises gellan gym, locust bean gum, and xanthan gum.
  • polysaccharide, the (ii) second polysaccharide, and the (iii) third polysaccharide) in the composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of the polysaccharides in the composition is 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of the polysaccharides in the composition is from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (iv) at least one metal salt.
  • Two or more metal salts may be used in combination.
  • metal salt here means a cosmetically-acceptable water-soluble salt that provides cationic ions in an aqueous medium.
  • the metal salt used in the composition of the present invention is preferably selected from polyvalent metal salts, such as divalent or trivalent metal salts, and is more preferably selected from divalent metal salts such as calcium, magnesium, and zinc salts.
  • Calcium salts such as calcium chloride, calcium pyrrolidone carboxylate (PCA), calcium acetate, calcium aspartate, calcium lactate, are preferred. Among others, calcium chloride and calcium pyrrolidone carboxylate are most preferable.
  • the amount of the (iv) metal salt in the composition according to the present invention is 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (iv) metal salt in the composition according to the present invention is 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (iv) metal salt in the composition according to the present invention is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a suspension comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase.
  • the composition may contain a dispersed fatty phase and a continuous aqueous phase.
  • the composition according to the present invention contains an aqueous phase as a continuous phase and a fatty phase in the form of droplets.
  • the composition according to the present invention is in the form of liquid.
  • the composition may be a viscous liquid, but the composition sustains sufficient fluidity so that it can be easily and smoothly dispensed from the container, for example through a dispenser and/or pump.
  • the composition of the present invention is not in the form of gel.
  • the composition according to the present invention consists exclusively of liquids, i.e. is substantially free of solid materials, such as solid particles. This particular embodiment is advantageous in providing smooth texture to the composition. In another particular embodiment, however, the composition according to the present invention may contain solid materials.
  • composition according to the present invention contains droplets.
  • droplets here means a visible discontinuous liquid phase in a continuous phase.
  • visible here means that each droplet in the composition according to the invention can be individually recognized by the naked eyes.
  • the composition according to the present invention is distinct from emulsions.
  • the droplets have a size, which is expressed as the median particle size by volume Dv50, of at least 10 pm, preferably at least 50 pm, more preferably at least 100 pm.
  • the medium particle size by volume Dv50 of the droplets is 10000 pm or less, preferably 5000 pm or less, more preferably 3000 pm or less.
  • the median particle size by volume Dv50 of the droplets is in the range from 10 pm to 10000 pm, preferably in the range from 50 pm to 5000 pm, more preferably in the range from 100 pm to 3000 pm.
  • the median particle size by volume Dv50 is a parameter for particle size distribution, referring to the maximum particle diameter below which 50% of the sample volume exists (see in A Basic Guide To Particle Characterization, page 10, published by Malvern Instruments Limited in 2012).
  • the droplets typically have a spherical or nearly spherical shape, but they may also be in different shapes, such as irregular shapes.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one aqueous medium such as water.
  • the aqueous phase may also contain one or more cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvents.
  • the cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) may include, for example, substantially linear or branched lower mono-alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, and isobutanol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerine, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, sorbitol, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethylether, diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethylether or monobutylether; polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-4, PEG-6, and PEG-8, and their derivatives
  • the amount of the water and optionally the cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) is 50% by weight or more, preferably 80% by weight or more, more preferably 90% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the water and optionally the cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) is 99% by weight or less, preferably 98% by weight or less, more preferably 97% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water and optionally the cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) is present in the composition in a content ranging from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 80% to 98% by weight, and more preferably from 90% to 97% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.
  • oils means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • oils those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the composition according to the present invention may contain any oil that is cosmetically acceptable.
  • the oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil may be selected from oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
  • plant oils examples include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal oils mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
  • alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ester oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ether oils such as triglycerides
  • the ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • esters of monoalcohols Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate ethyl hexyl palmitate
  • isopropyl palmitate dicaprylyl carbonate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate
  • isostearyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • Esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • diisopropyl sebacate bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sucgar means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, marmose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these
  • compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates.
  • ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2- ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl
  • isononanoate ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
  • ether oils mention may be made of, for example, ether oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains, such as dicaprylyl ether.
  • artificial triglycerides mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate), glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate), and caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride.
  • capryl caprylyl glycerides glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate), glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolen
  • silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear
  • organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane,
  • dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
  • PDMS liquid polydimethylsiloxanes
  • silicone oils may also be organomodified.
  • organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C.
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s;
  • polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • silicones containing aryl groups mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
  • silicones of the PK series from Bayer such as the product PK20;
  • oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.
  • phenyl silicone oil phenyl trimethicone and trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane are preferable.
  • the organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
  • Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:
  • linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C 6 -Ci 6 lower alkanes examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydeeenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
  • hydrocarbon oils As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohol in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • fatty alcohol examples include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol,
  • arachidonyl alcohol erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce- C30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols.
  • the term“saturated fatty alcohol” here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain.
  • the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C 1 2-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used.
  • Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used.
  • Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
  • saturated fatty alcohols mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the amount of the (b) fatty phase is 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) fatty phase is 50% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) fatty phase may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention is stable over a sufficient period of time in the container during storage.
  • the term“stable” when used for the composition of the present invention means that the droplets in the composition are maintained, i.e. perceptible creaming or coalescence of droplets is not observed. This feature provides a practical benefit to consumers that they do not have to mix the two phases prior to use, for example by shaking the container, as well as providing an attractive appearance of the product.
  • the composition according to the present invention is stable for at least 2 weeks, preferably at least 1 month, more preferably at least 2 month at 45 °C.
  • the composition according to the present invention is stable for at least 6 months, preferably for at least 1 year, and more preferably for at least 3 years at ambient temperatures.
  • the composition according to the present invention may comprise additives as long as they do not impair the effects of the present invention and they are acceptable in cosmetic use.
  • the additives may be selected from surfactants, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; natural or synthetic thickeners; lubricants or dispersants, such as sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example, sorbitan sesquioleate; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables; waxes; cosmetically acceptable hydrophobic organic solvents; preservatives, such as sodium dehydroacetate, phenoxyethanol, and chlorphenesin; co-preservatives, such as decylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, and caprylyl glycol; bactericides; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; stabilizers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the additives included in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but may be at least 0.0001% by weight, preferably at least 0.001% by weight, more preferably at least 0.01% by weight; and 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less; and from 0.0001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the composition according to the present invention may preferably be used as a cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may be cosmetic composition for treating a keratin substance, such as a serum for treating skin or a cleansing composition, preferably a make-up remover.
  • the skin here encompasses face skin, neck skin, and scalp.
  • the composition according to the present invention may also be used for mucosae such as lips, and for keratin fibers that are normally treated together with skin, such as eyelashes and eyebrows.
  • composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratin substance such as skin, lips, or eyelashes. More particularly, the composition according to the present invention may be intended for cleansing a keratin substance, preferably for removing make-up from the keratin substance.
  • the cosmetic process or cosmetic use for a keratin substance according to the present invention comprises, at least (i) a step of applying onto the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention and optionally (ii) a step of rinsing off said composition.
  • the cosmetic process or cosmetic use according to the present invention can provide a convenient process which does not include a step of shaking the composition to mix them before use, and can also provide a comfortable smooth texture and fresh skin feel when applied to the keratin substance, preferably skin.
  • Phase (A) in Table 1 and Table 2 was heated to 70-72°C.
  • Phase (B) which was mixed uniformly at room temperature, was added to phase (A), and dispersed well by homogenizer at 70-72°C.
  • Phase (C) was added to the mixture resulted from (2), and mixed well by homogenizer.
  • Phase (D) was then added to the mixture resulted from (4) at room temperature and mixed uniformly by scraper by minimal speed.
  • compositions were evaluated from three perspectives: smoothness, fresh skin feel upon application, and stability.
  • the smoothness of the composition was evaluated for the composition according to Examples and Comparative Examples by 5 panelists. Each panelist took each composition in their hands, then observed with eyes and touched by fingers, and evaluated according to the following criteria:
  • the fresh skin feel was evaluated during the application of the compositions according to Examples and Comparative Examples by 5 panelists. Each panelist took each composition in their hands, then applied on their faces to evaluate the fresh degree, and evaluated according to the following criteria:
  • composition was filled into a glass bottle and was held under the condition at 45 °C for 2 months. After storage, each composition was investigated and evaluated according to the following criteria:
  • Comparative Example 1 which lacks linear polysaccharide (gellan gum)
  • Comparative Example 2 which contains no branched polysaccharide (locust bean gum (ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum) and xanthan gum)
  • Comparative Example 3 which contains only one branched polysaccharide, showed poor stability. The stability could be improved simply by increasing the amount of linear polysaccharide (gellan gum) and metal salt (calcium chloride), but the smoothness was compromised in return (comparing Comparative Example 3 with Comparative Example 4).
  • Comparative Example 5 which contains only one branched polysaccharide, in particular which lacks a galactomannan (locust bean gum (ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum)), could not achieve a fresh skin feel upon application. Comparative Example 6, which contains no metal salt, also showed poor stability.
  • the compositions according to the present invention (Examples 1 to 4) comprising the specific combination of three kinds of polysaccharides (at least one linear polysaccharide and at least two branched polysaccharides) with at least one metal salt all achieved smoothness, fresh skin feel upon application, and good stability.
  • the results of Examples 1 to 4 suggest that these effects can be obtained for compositions containing different types of oil, such as ether oil, hydrocarbon oil, ester oil, triglyceride, and silicone oil.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition contenant des gouttelettes dans une phase continue comprenant (a) une phase aqueuse comprenant de l'eau et : (i) un premier polysaccharide choisi parmi les polysaccharides linéaires ; (ii) un deuxième polysaccharide choisi parmi les polysaccharides ramifiés ; (iii) un troisième polysaccharide choisi parmi les polysaccharides ramifiés, le troisième polysaccharide étant différent du deuxième polysaccharide ; et (iv) au moins un sel métallique ; et (b) une phase lipidique comprenant au moins une huile. La composition selon la présente invention présente une stabilité améliorée, a une texture lisse et une sensation sur la peau fraîche agréable, et peut contenir n'importe quel type d'huile.
PCT/JP2019/050230 2018-12-19 2019-12-13 Compositions cosmétiques avec gouttelettes visibles comprenant des polysaccharides et un sel métallique WO2020130153A1 (fr)

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