WO2020000419A1 - Procédé de mise en forme et/ou d'ondulation de fibres de kératine, comprenant l'application d'un agent réducteur contenant un thiol et d'un sel de guanidine, composition et utilisation correspondante - Google Patents

Procédé de mise en forme et/ou d'ondulation de fibres de kératine, comprenant l'application d'un agent réducteur contenant un thiol et d'un sel de guanidine, composition et utilisation correspondante Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020000419A1
WO2020000419A1 PCT/CN2018/093808 CN2018093808W WO2020000419A1 WO 2020000419 A1 WO2020000419 A1 WO 2020000419A1 CN 2018093808 W CN2018093808 W CN 2018093808W WO 2020000419 A1 WO2020000419 A1 WO 2020000419A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
guanidine
composition
thiol
acid
weight
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2018/093808
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English (en)
Inventor
Mingming YAO
Maxime De Boni
Philippe Rapold
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2018/093808 priority Critical patent/WO2020000419A1/fr
Priority to CN201880094403.3A priority patent/CN112236127B/zh
Publication of WO2020000419A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020000419A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/43—Guanidines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4986—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with sulfur as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for shaping and/or waving keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying onto the keratin fibres of a composition comprising one or more thiol-comprising reducing agents and one or more salts of guanidine, and at least one step of placing said fibres under mechanical tension.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic aqueous composition for shaping keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more a thiol-comprising reducing agent, and one or more salts of guanidine.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for shaping and/or waving keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the most widely used technique consists, initially, in opening the disulfide -SS-linkages of keratin (keratocystin) using a generally basic composition containing a thiol reducing agent (reduction step) and then, after having generally rinsed the treated hair with water, to reconstitute in a second step the said disulfide bonds by applying onto the hair an oxidizing composition (oxidation step, also known as a fixing step ) so as to finally give the hair the desired shape.
  • oxidizing composition oxidation step, also known as a fixing step
  • these products generally contain relatively high concentrations of hydrogen peroxide, which can induce, in the long run, an alteration in the quality of the hair fibres resulting in a decrease in their cosmetic properties, such as their vitality, their gloss and a degradation of their mechanical properties, more particularly their mechanical strength.
  • keratin fibres in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:
  • step (a) of applying onto the keratin fibres of a composition comprising:
  • This method makes it possible to achieve the desired properties, inter alia in terms of integrity, quality and cosmeticity of the keratin fibres, while at the same time obtaining shaping and/or waving of keratin fibres of good and long-lasting quality.
  • the method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a good curl performance and to maintain a good fibre integrity, especially the hair presents less colour fading, a better moisture, and is soft and smooth after shaping and/or waving.
  • a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic aqueous composition for shaping keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more a thiol-comprising reducing agent and one or more salts of guanidine different from the thiol-comprising reducing agents in a content ranging from 0.5 to 8%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention for shaping and/or waving keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • keratin fibres used in the present description corresponds in particular to human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the method according to the invention comprises at least one step (a) of applying onto the keratin fibres of a composition comprising one or more thiol-comprising reducing agents.
  • the thiol-comprising reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from organic compounds comprising one or more mercapto (–SH or –S–) groups or one or more disulfide (–S–S–) groups, preferably one or more -SH groups, and at least one other function chosen from carboxylic acid, amine, amide, ester and alcohol functions and mixtures thereof.
  • the thiol-comprising reducing agent (s) used in the invention is (are) chosen from those of formulae i-1 and i-2, and also the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, optical isomers thereof and tautomers thereof, and the solvates such as hydrates:
  • ⁇ R represents:
  • R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl group, C (O) or combinations thereof such as –O–C (O) –, –C (O) –O–, –N (R”’) –C (O) –or –C (O) –N (R”’) –;
  • ⁇ R'and R which may be identical or different, represent a (C 1 -C 8 ) alkyl group, preferably (C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl group, substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, thiol and carboxy;
  • R’and R”form together with the sulfur atom which bears them, a heterocyclic group, comprising from 5 to 7 ring members, which is preferably saturated, which comprises from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, and which is optionally substituted (in particular with one or more (C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl groups optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, thiol or carboxy groups) , more preferentially the heterocyclic group is a dithiolane group optionally substituted with a (C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more carboxy groups.
  • the reducing agents are of formula i-1, in particular those for which R represents a linear or branched (C 1 -C 8 ) alkyl group, preferably (C 1 -C 6 )alkyl group, substituted with one or more groups chosen from carboxy C (O) OH, amino, hydroxyl -OH, and thiol -SH;
  • R represents a linear or branched, uninterrupted (C 1 -C 8 ) alkyl group, preferably (C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl group.
  • the reducing agents are of formula i-1 for which R represents:
  • heteroaryl comprising from 5 to 10 ring members, which is preferably bicyclic comprising 9 or 10 ring members, comprising from 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from O, S or N, preferably N, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl or thiol groups.
  • the reducing agents are of formula i-2, in particular those for which R’and R”, which may be identical or different, represent a (C 1 -C 8 ) alkyl group, preferably (C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl group, substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, thiol and carboxy.
  • the reducing agents are of formula i-2, in particular those for which R’and R”form, together with the sulfur atom which bears them, a heterocyclic group, comprising from 5 to 7 ring members, which is preferably saturated, which comprises from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, and which is optionally substituted with one or more (C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl groups optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, thiol or carboxy groups, more preferentially the heterocyclic group is a dithiolane group optionally substituted with a (C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, thiol or carboxy groups.
  • the reducing agent (s) comprising at least one mercapto or disulfide group of the invention are chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid or 2-mercaptopropionic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiodiglycolic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, and thioglycolic or thiolactic acid esters and amides, in particular glyceryl monothioglycolate, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • the thiol-comprising reducing agent (s) as defined previously may be used in particular in the form of salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline-earth metal salts, or in the form of a salt of a mercaptocarboxylic acid associated with an organic base different from guanidine.
  • the thiol-comprising reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from salts of a mercaptocarboxylic acid associated with an organic base different from guanidine.
  • the mercaptocarboxylic acid (s) of the salt (s) is (are) chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiosalicylic acid, thiodiglycolic acid, lipoic acid; more preferably the mercaptocarboxylic acid is thioglycolic acid.
  • the organic base (s) of the salt (s) is (are) chosen from monoethanolamine, monoethylamine, diethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine; more preferably monoethanolamine.
  • the thiol-comprising reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from monoethanolamine thioglycolate, monoethylamine thioglycolate, diethanolamine thioglycolate, monoisopropanolamine thioglycolate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably monoethanolamine thioglycolate.
  • the thiol-comprising reducing agent (s) present (s) in the said composition used in a method according to the invention represent (s) from 1 to 25%by weight; more preferably from 2 to 20%by weight; better from 3 to 15%by weight, even better from 4 to 12%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the method according to the invention comprises at least one step (a) of applying onto the keratin fibres of a composition comprising one or more salts of guanidine.
  • the salt (s) of guanidine present (s) in the composition used in the method according to the invention is (are) different from the thiol-comprising reducing agent (s) i) .
  • the salts of guanidine are salt of the guanidine associated with an organic or mineral acid different from a mercaptocarboxylic acids.
  • organic or mineral acids associated with the guanidine to form a salt ii) may be chosen from hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid, carbonic acid, thiocyanic acid, acetic acid.
  • the salt (s) of guanidine present (s) in the composition used in a method according to the invention has (have) a molar ratio of guanidine to the organic or mineral acid (s) of between 0.5 to 2.
  • the salt (s) of guanidine is (are) chosen from guanidine carbonate, guanidine hydrochloride, guanidine thiocyanate, guanidine nitrate, guanidine acetate, guanidine sulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably the salt of guanidine is guanidine carbonate.
  • the salt (s) of guanidine present (s) in the said composition used in a method according to the invention represent (s) from 0.01 to 13%by weight; more preferably from 0.1 to 10%by weight; better from 0.5 to 8%by weight, still better from 1 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the said composition used in a method according to the invention presents a weight ratio of the amount of thiol-comprising reducing agent (s) to the amount of the salt (s) of guanidine, is between 0.01 and 15, preferably inclusively between 1 and 10; more preferably inclusively between 2 and 8; even better inclusively between 3 and 6.
  • composition used in a method according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
  • “Chemical oxidizing agent” here means an oxidizing agent other than oxygen of the air.
  • the chemical oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids and enzymes oxidases (with their possible cofactors) , among which may be mentioned peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases. More preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
  • the chemical oxidizing agent (s) is (are) present in the said composition and ranging from 0.05 to 30%by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • no chemical oxidizing agent is applied onto the fibres.
  • No chemical oxidizing agent here means that no chemical oxidizing agent is present in the said composition according to the invention, or in case such chemical oxidizing agent (s) is (are) present, it(they) represents less than 0.1%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used in a method according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the surfactant (s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30%by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 25%by weight, even better from 0.5 to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the said composition used in a method according to the invention comprises water.
  • Water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water and/or tap water and/or well water.
  • a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water and/or tap water and/or well water.
  • water is present in an amount ranging from 45%to 99.9%by weight, preferably from 50%to 99%by weight, more preferably from 60%to 98%by weight, relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • composition used in a method according to the invention may optionally comprise a cosmetically acceptable solvent.
  • the cosmetically acceptable solvent (s) optionally present may be preferably selected from organic solvents, and mixtures of organic solvent (s) with water.
  • the organic solvents that may be used are preferably water-miscible (at room temperature: 25°C) .
  • the water-miscible organic solvents can be chosen from monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6
  • the organic solvent is chosen from propylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetically acceptable solvent comprises 100%water by weight.
  • composition used in a method according to the invention may also comprise any auxiliary ingredient usually used in the cosmetic field.
  • auxiliary ingredient usually used in the cosmetic field.
  • Such ingredients may be selected, for example, from emulsifying agents, conditioning agents, stabilizers such as sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate, moisturizing agents, shine agents, fillers, colorants, pigments, chelating compounds, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, stabilizers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the said composition used in a method according to the invention has a pH ranging from 6.5 to 10; more preferentially from 6.6 to 9.5; better from 7 to 9, even better from 7.1 to 9.
  • the said composition used in a method according to the invention has a pH inferior or equal to 9.
  • the pH of these compositions can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents different from the thiol-comprising reducing agents i) and the salts of guanidine ii) , or acidifying agents usually used.
  • alkalinizing agents from the thiol-comprising reducing agents i) and the salts of guanidine ii) that may be mentioned, for example, are ammonia, alkanolamines in a free form such as monoethanolamine or triethanolamine, or mineral or organic hydroxides.
  • acidifying agents mention may be made, by way of examples, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
  • mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
  • the said composition used in a method according to the invention may further comprise one or more alkalinizing agents different from the thiol-comprising reducing agents i) and the salts of guanidine ii) chosen for alkanolamines in a free form such as monoethanolamine or triethanolamine.
  • Alkanolamines in a free form here means that the alkanolamine (s) as alkalinizing agent (s) which may be present (s) in the said composition used in a method according to the invention, is(are) in a free amine form, in another words the alkanolamine (s) is(are) not in a salified form (s) .
  • composition used in a method according to the invention can thus be in any form compatible with an application to keratin fibres, for example in the form of a wax, a paste, a more or less fluid or thick cream, gel, foam, a spray or a lotion.
  • composition as described previously may be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres.
  • the method for shaping and/or waving keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, according to the invention comprises at least one step (b) of placing said fibres under mechanical tension.
  • the method according to the invention preferably includes placing said fibres under mechanical tension.
  • the mechanical tension can be applied before, during or after the step (s) (a) of the claimed method.
  • the fibres are placed under mechanical tension after the implementation of step (s) (a) , in other words the fibres are placed under mechanical tension after applying a composition as previously described onto the keratin fibres.
  • composition according to the invention can be applied before, during or after placing the keratin fibres under mechanical tension with said hair-shaping means, preferably before.
  • the said composition used in a method according to the invention as previously described may be applied to hair which has been wound beforehand onto rollers with a diameter of from 1 to 100mm, preferably from 10 to 50mm.
  • the composition may also be applied in line with the winding of the hair.
  • FIG. 1 represents schematically an embodiment of a hair shaping means according to the invention
  • FIG. 2 represents schematically an embodiment of a sleeve, as part of a hair shaping means according to the invention
  • FIG. 3 represents schematically an embodiment of a curler, as part of a hair shaping means according to the invention
  • FIG. 4 represents schematically an embodiment of head with a long hair carrying several hair shaping means according to the invention
  • FIG. 5 represents schematically an embodiment of a cross-sectional view of a hair shaping means according to the invention.
  • Figure 1 represents a hair shaping means 1 having a substantially cylindrical form, which comprises a sleeve 2 coating a curler 3, the sleeve being closed at each end by elastics 4, and wherein the hair lock 5 treated with a composition 6 according to the invention, is placed inside a longitudinal slot 2’between the sleeve 2 and the curler 3.
  • Figure 2 represents a sleeve 2 such as that illustrated in Figure 1.
  • the sleeve 2 has an essentially cylindrical body, preferably a hollow cylinder, in which the hair curler 3 is inserted.
  • the sleeve 2 comprises a longitudinal slot 2’wherein the hair lock 5 is inserted.
  • the sleeve 2 has an internal diameter ranging from 10 to 50mm.
  • the sleeve 2 has a thickness ranging from 1 to 10mm.
  • the sleeve 2 has an internal circumference ranging from 30 to 150mm.
  • the sleeve 2 has a length ranging from 10 to 100mm.
  • the sleeve 2 has an internal diameter ranging from 30 to 40mm and a length ranging from 75 to 95mm.
  • the sleeve 2 is in ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer (EVC) for its exterior side (the side in contact with elastics in figure 1) and in carbon fibre for its interior side (the side in contact with the curler 3 in Figure 1) .
  • EMC ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer
  • Figure 3 represents a hair curler 3 such as that illustrated in figure 1.
  • the curler 3 has an essentially cylindrical winding body, preferably a hollow cylinder provided with flanges 3a in the region of both ends.
  • the curler 3 has a length ranging from 10 to 100mm.
  • Figure 4 represents a head with a long hair where three locks previously treated with a composition 6 according to the invention are put under mechanical tension using a hair shaping means 1 according to the invention as shown in Figure 1.
  • Figure 5 represents a cross-sectional view of the hair shaping means 1 as shown in Figure 1, wherein the hair lock 5, on which a composition 6 according to the invention has been previously applied, is placed inside a longitudinal slot 2’, is wrapped around the curler 3 and is coated with a sleeve 2, which sleeve 2 is held by the elastic 4.
  • heating means to use heating tongs at a temperature of between 60 and 230°C, and preferably between 120 and 230°C, the heating tongs being preferably used after the step of interim rinsing following the application (s) of the composition as previously described.
  • the temperature can be from 40 to 150°C, preferably from 60 to 120°C.
  • the curler itself may be a heating means.
  • the keratinous fibres are preferably rinsed thoroughly, generally with water. This can be done without any heat treatment after application of the reducing agent.
  • the step (s) (b) of the method for shaping and/or waving keratin fibres consists in placing under mechanical tension the said keratin fibres by means of hair-shaping means; more preferably by means of a hair-shaping means 1 comprising a sleeve 2 coating a curler 3, the sleeve 2 being closed at each end by elastics 4, and wherein the said keratin fibres 5 treated with a composition 6 such as described previously, are placed inside a longitudinal slot 2’between the sleeve 2 and the curler 3; even better by the hair-shaping means 1 described in Figure 1.
  • the method for shaping and/or waving keratin fibres does not use hydrogen peroxide; more preferably the method according to the invention does not use any chemical oxidizing agent other than oxygen of the air.
  • the method for shaping and/or waving keratin fibres comprises at least the following steps:
  • composition comprising i) one or more thiol-comprising reducing agents, and ii) one or more salts of guanidine different from the thiol-comprising reducing agents i) , is applied onto the said keratin fibres; then
  • the said keratin fibres are placed under mechanical tension by means of a hair-shaping means, such as the one described in figure 1, comprising a sleeve coating a curler, the sleeve being closed by elastics, and wherein the said keratin fibres are placed between the sleeve and the curler;
  • a hair-shaping means such as the one described in figure 1, comprising a sleeve coating a curler, the sleeve being closed by elastics, and wherein the said keratin fibres are placed between the sleeve and the curler;
  • the said keratin fibres are heated at 80°C for 5 to 15 minutes, preferably for 10 minutes, and then at 120°C for 5 to 25 minutes, preferably for 15 minutes;
  • the said neutralizing composition is an aqueous acidic oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as defined previously, the pH of the said neutralizing composition being inferior to 7.
  • Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic aqueous composition
  • a cosmetic aqueous composition comprising:
  • one or more salts of guanidine different from the thiol-comprising reducing agents i) in a content ranging from 0.5 to 8%by weight, preferably from 1 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the thiol-comprising reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from salts of a mercaptocarboxylic acid associated with an organic base different from guanidine.
  • the pH of the cosmetic aqueous composition according to the invention is inferior or equal to 9.
  • the cosmetic aqueous composition according to the invention presents the same preferences, embodiments and variants that the said composition used in a method according to the invention.
  • Another subject of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic aqueous composition as previously described, for shaping and/or waving keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • compositions containing the ingredients hereunder were prepared, with all amounts expressed by percentages by weight of active matter (am) with regard to the total weight of each composition.
  • Composition A (Invention) :
  • Composition B (Comparative) :
  • Composition C (Comparative) :
  • composition A, B and C were applied respectively to a 1 gram lock of natural hair, left on for 15 minutes and then rinsed off.
  • composition A according to the invention were then wound around a hair–shaping means as described in figure 1, heated at 80°C for 10 minutes and at 120°C for 15 minutes.
  • the locks of hair treated with one of the comparative composition B or C were then heated at 80°C for 10 minutes and at 120°C for 15 minutes.
  • the said neutralizing composition is an aqueous acidic oxidizing composition comprising 2.4%am by weight of hydrogen peroxide, relative to the total weight of the neutralizing composition.
  • the level of cysteic acids after acid hydrolysis was measured for the three locks of hair treated respectively by the compositions A, B and C.
  • the acid hydrolysis is realized by a 9N hydrochloric acid solution or a methansulfonic acid solution.
  • the levels are expressed in grams of cysteic acid per 100 grams of hair evaluated.
  • the amount of natural 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) was measured for the three locks of hair treated respectively by the compositions A, B and C.
  • the 18-MEA is present in the cuticle of the hair and more particularly bonded to the cysteines present on the surface of the hair.
  • the 18-MEA is first detached from the cysteines with a methanolic potassium hydroxide solution, and then the amounts of 18-MEA were measured using a Agilent 6890N Gas Chromatograph.
  • the amounts are expressed in micro-grams of 18-MEA per gram of hair evaluated.
  • the denaturation temperature (Td) was measured for the three locks of hair treated respectively by the compositions A, B and C.
  • the lock treated with the composition A according to the invention has a lower degradation of the keratinous fibre, than the locks treated with the comparative composition B or C.
  • compositions A, B and C have been applied on a lock of natural straight hair of a length of 27cm.
  • composition A and the lock treated with the composition A according to the invention have a better smell than the comparative compositions B and C, and than the locks treated with the comparative composition B or C.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de mise en forme et/ou d'ondulation de fibres de kératine telles que des cheveux humains, comprenant au moins une étape d'application sur les fibres de kératine d'une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs agents réducteurs contenant un thiol et un ou plusieurs sels de guanidine, et au moins une étape de mise en tension mécanique desdites fibres. L'invention concerne également une composition cosmétique aqueuse pour la mise en forme de fibres de kératine telles que des cheveux, comprenant un ou plusieurs agents réducteurs contenant un thiol et un ou plusieurs sels de guanidine. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation d'une composition permettant la mise en forme et/ou l'ondulation de fibres de kératine telles que des cheveux humains.
PCT/CN2018/093808 2018-06-29 2018-06-29 Procédé de mise en forme et/ou d'ondulation de fibres de kératine, comprenant l'application d'un agent réducteur contenant un thiol et d'un sel de guanidine, composition et utilisation correspondante WO2020000419A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2018/093808 WO2020000419A1 (fr) 2018-06-29 2018-06-29 Procédé de mise en forme et/ou d'ondulation de fibres de kératine, comprenant l'application d'un agent réducteur contenant un thiol et d'un sel de guanidine, composition et utilisation correspondante
CN201880094403.3A CN112236127B (zh) 2018-06-29 2018-06-29 使角蛋白纤维定型和/或成波浪形的方法和组合物

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2018/093808 WO2020000419A1 (fr) 2018-06-29 2018-06-29 Procédé de mise en forme et/ou d'ondulation de fibres de kératine, comprenant l'application d'un agent réducteur contenant un thiol et d'un sel de guanidine, composition et utilisation correspondante

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WO2020000419A1 true WO2020000419A1 (fr) 2020-01-02

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CN216875354U (zh) * 2021-03-02 2022-07-05 雍德伟 一种新型韩式波纹卷烫发杠

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WO2013111346A1 (fr) * 2012-01-26 2013-08-01 L'oreal Processus de traitement de fibres de kératine

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WO2013111346A1 (fr) * 2012-01-26 2013-08-01 L'oreal Processus de traitement de fibres de kératine

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