WO2019218700A1 - 一种在运动过程中保持穿着舒适及优雅外观织物 - Google Patents

一种在运动过程中保持穿着舒适及优雅外观织物 Download PDF

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WO2019218700A1
WO2019218700A1 PCT/CN2019/070230 CN2019070230W WO2019218700A1 WO 2019218700 A1 WO2019218700 A1 WO 2019218700A1 CN 2019070230 W CN2019070230 W CN 2019070230W WO 2019218700 A1 WO2019218700 A1 WO 2019218700A1
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fabric
water
hydrophilic
yarn
layer
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PCT/CN2019/070230
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English (en)
French (fr)
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胡军岩
陈鸿飞
翟国钧
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东莞超盈纺织有限公司
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/02—Layered materials
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/14—Air permeable, i.e. capable of being penetrated by gases
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2500/00—Materials for garments
    • A41D2500/20—Woven
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2500/00—Materials for garments
    • A41D2500/30—Non-woven
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2600/00—Uses of garments specially adapted for specific purposes
    • A41D2600/10—Uses of garments specially adapted for specific purposes for sport activities

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of design and preparation of textile functional fabrics, in particular to a fabric in the process of wearing, especially when sweating, the fabric can not only remove sweat from the bottom of the cloth to keep the skin and the micro environment of the cloth bottom dry and wear.
  • the heat and moisture comfort feels, while also reducing the possibility of sweat forming a clear water mark or sweat on the cloth surface, thereby maintaining the wearer's elegant appearance and visual comfort.
  • the fabric of the fabric is ordinary cotton or moisture-absorbing or quick-drying or moisture wicking
  • the fabric usually has sweat or watermark on the front of the fabric after sweating, which affects the elegance of the appearance of the garment.
  • Suitable for formal business activities fear of losing basic etiquette. Therefore, in modern life, people need a functional fabric garment that can meet different sports conditions and adapt to a variety of scenes. It is hoped that there is a fabric that can remove sweat from the underside of the fabric during exercise and sweat, while maintaining the comfort of wearing, while at the same time not forming a watermark on the outer surface of the fabric and affecting the viewing.
  • CN1985036A "Woven fabric with moisture management properties" reports that a woven fabric consists of a generally uniform woven structure of hydrophobic and hydrophilic materials and has internal and external exposure to hydrophobic and hydrophilic materials. surface. Thereby, the one-way transmission of sweat from the bottom of the cloth to the cloth surface is realized. Based on the basic principle that the difference in surface energy of fabrics leads to the one-way flow of liquid water, many new patent reports have appeared.
  • CN207044828U Single-guide wet fabric is a partial water-repellent yarn obtained by interweaving raw cotton yarn and hydrophilic yarn, and the hydrophilic yarn count of the surface layer gauze is larger than the raw cotton yarn of the inner layer gauze. This eliminates the need for any chemical processing to achieve a single-guide wet.
  • Another example is CN206033999U “Single-Wait Wet-Hydrating Heat-Knit Fabric” which combines different yarns to make the fabric have a single-guide wet function, and at the same time realizes the function of moisture absorption and heat generation.
  • CN201610612603.6 "a fabric anti-sweat finishing process” uses a hydrophilic non-ionic softener to soften and absorb moisture through the moisture absorption and perspiration of the fabric, so that the sweat can be absorbed and volatilized instantaneously, with good air permeability and comfortable wearing;
  • the compound coating additive is used to form a film coating with a lot of breathable micropores on the surface of the knitted fabric, and each micro hole is smaller than sweat and larger than the body's sweat molecules, by using sweat in a gaseous state. The form is exuded so that the perspiration leaves no trace on the surface of the fabric.
  • Knitted fabric soft processing ⁇ pulping ⁇ knitted fabric front anti-sweat trace processing ⁇ anti-sweat inspection ⁇ bake drying.
  • the sweat can be absorbed and volatilized instantaneously; then, by means of paint printing, a film coating with a lot of breathable fine pores is formed on the surface of the knitted fabric, and each microporous is more than sweat.
  • Small and more powerful than the body's sweat molecules by emitting sweat in the form of a gas, so that the sweat stains leave no trace on the appearance of the clothing, thus, it has the effect of anti-sweat.
  • Preparation process of anti-sweat T-shirt relates to a preparation process of a sweat-proof T-shirt, comprising the following steps: (1) water-absorbing and quick-drying treatment of a T-shirt; (2) preparing a waterproof coating, the waterproof coating is It consists of the following parts by weight: C6 waterproofing agent TG-552150-60 parts, silicone waterproofing agent 36-44 parts and isocyanate 4-6 parts; (3) T-shirt front anti-sweat processing; (4) T-shirt Post processing.
  • the preparation process of the sweat-proof T-shirt preferably the compound waterproof coating, coating the surface of the T-shirt with a coating machine, forming a film coating with a lot of breathable micropores on the surface of the T-shirt, thereby making the sweat in a gaseous state
  • the form is exuded, so that the sweat stains leave no trace on the surface of the T-shirt.
  • the T-shirt is very uniform to achieve the anti-sweat effect, and there is no through-shadow.
  • the basic principle of the anti-sweat trace is based on the moisture-absorbing and quick-drying of the fabric, and further coating treatment on the outer surface of the fabric.
  • the liquid absorbed by the fabric passes through the film in a gaseous manner by evaporation.
  • the fabric will have a process of first wetting and then evaporating until it is dry.
  • the fabric contains liquid water, when our line of sight reaches the surface of the hydrated fabric, the reflection of the water in the fabric is different from the fabric in the anhydrous state, which causes the visual effect of the water trace.
  • the liquid water is technically blocked at the bottom of the cloth, the user's wearing comfort experience is also reduced.
  • the moisture-absorbing and quick-drying fabric theoretically has a wetting process between the cloth surface and the cloth bottom.
  • the light is on the fabric.
  • the transfer characteristics of the neutralization and/or surface are changed.
  • the optical properties of water-containing fabrics such as reflection, transmission, scattering or absorption are significantly different from those of the same fabric without water, so when the line of sight reaches the surface of the fabric, it can be returned to our eyes through various methods such as reflection, scattering and other methods on the surface of the fabric.
  • the difference in visual effects with the unhydrated portion will be found to form a perception of watermarks in our brains.
  • the principle of light being seen by our eyes as it reaches the surface of the fabric is shown in Figure 2.
  • the present invention proposes a new concept and implementation process to relieve the user's confusion during the wearing process while improving the wearing comfort of the user.
  • the basic principle of the design of the fabric of the present invention is to allow sweat to be transferred from the bottom surface of the fabric (near the wearer's skin surface) to the intermediate layer of the fabric as much as possible; in this intermediate layer for storage and evaporation; to prevent the intermediate layer from being outside the fabric as much as possible.
  • the penetration of the liquid to the outer surface causes the outer surface to have an area that cannot be wetted within a certain thickness range.
  • the fabric structure design since the visual effect depends on the absorption and reflection characteristics of the light wave of the fabric of the ambient light source, the light reflection and scattering opportunities are improved by the fabric structure design; or a visually non-transparent outer surface is formed by printing or the like to weaken the mirror surface of the outer surface.
  • the effect of reflection and fluoroscopy solves the problem of water/swetting caused by water on the surface of the fabric.
  • the invention provides a fabric which maintains a comfortable and elegant appearance during exercise.
  • the fabric has at least three layers of structure functionally, from the bottom of the cloth to the cloth surface, respectively being a water-repellent water-conducting layer (1); Water storage layer (2) and visual interference layer (3); wherein the hydrophilic water storage layer (2) can be further decomposed into hydrophilic water/water storage layer (2.1) and hydrophilic water guide/fast Dry layer (2.2).
  • the main function of the water-repellent water-conducting layer (1) is to quickly suck the liquid away from the surface of the fabric when the fabric is in contact with the sweat, so that the contact between the skin and the fabric is kept dry; the method can be implemented by using hydrophilic yarn. And/or hydrophobic yarn interlacing/finishing to form a water-repellent water-conducting layer, and the hydrophobic yarn has a coverage area of more than 50%, preferably 65-85%, so that the hydrophilic yarn forms a water-conducting layer. aisle.
  • the water-repellent water-conducting layer (1) selects 100% hydrophobic yarn to form a large mesh structure, and the hollow area is between 10% and 85%, preferably 30%; water can directly communicate with the hydrophilic water/storage through the void of the mesh The water layer is absorbed by contact; at the same time, the hydrophobic low moisture regain rate yarn keeps the skin and fabric contact dry.
  • the hydrophilic water guiding/water storage layer is composed of 100% hydrophilic yarn, and the fabric structure may be a plain weave structure or a three-dimensional space structure; preferably a synthetic fiber having a profiled fiber cross section, and a capillary effect is used to achieve liquid water. Rapid diffusion and evaporation.
  • the visual interference layer is composed of 100% hydrophobic yarn, and the outer surface fabric structure may be plain weave, preferably a three-dimensional structure to further interfere with the reflection of light, and the lower the transparency of the fabric, the better.
  • the outer surface of the visual interference layer can be further formed by post-processing means such as printing, sanding, and fluffing to reduce the specular reflection ability of the fabric surface to reduce or interfere with the reflection of the sweat trace.
  • the fabric can be selected by a suitable multi-layer fabric by a fitting method, or a functional yarn can be selected by a weaving method once or in steps; the design principle of the invention is applicable to knitted, woven and non-woven structures.
  • the two sides have different specific front and back sides.
  • the functional fabric is designed and prepared to meet the wearer's comfortable and dry wearing experience while maintaining the wearer's elegant appearance. To some extent, it also enhances the user's ability to resist the external environment.
  • the outer surface of the fabric is not easily wet or stained and is easy to clean.
  • Figure 1 depicts a schematic diagram of the design of a non-sweat fabric
  • Figure 2 depicts the retransmission characteristics of light reaching the surface of the fabric
  • Figure 3 depicts the GB1 and GB2 padding diagrams
  • Figure 4 depicts the GB1 and GB2 padding diagrams
  • Figure 5 depicts a GB5 mat yarn diagram
  • Figure 6 shows the process flow of a typical non-sweat fabric finishing process.
  • the fabric has at least three layers of structure in the thickness direction, from the bottom to the cloth surface, the water-repellent water-conducting layer (1); the hydrophilic water-storing layer (2) and the visual interference layer. (3); wherein the hydrophilic water storage layer (2) can be further decomposed into a hydrophilic water/water storage layer (2.1) and a hydrophilic water guiding/quick drying layer (2.2);
  • Water-repellent water-conducting layer (1) Its main function is to quickly absorb the liquid from the surface of the fabric when the fabric is in contact with sweat, so that the contact between the skin and the fabric remains dry.
  • the well-known moisture absorption and quick drying technology, single-guide wet wicking technology, etc. all contribute to the realization of this function.
  • the present invention based on the demand for improving the comfort experience of the consumer, the present invention preferably forms a water-repellent water-conducting layer by interweaving/finishing the hydrophilic yarn and/or the hydrophobic yarn, and the hydrophobic yarn is in the cloth.
  • the coverage area of the bottom is greater than 50%, preferably about 65-85%, and a certain proportion of hydrophilic yarn is retained to form a water conduit; another preferred technical solution is that the water-repellent water-conducting layer selects 100% hydrophobic yarn to form a large mesh structure.
  • the hollow area is between 10% and 80%, preferably 30%. Water can be absorbed by direct contact with the hydrophilic water/water storage layer through the voids of the mesh. At the same time, the hydrophobic low moisture regain rate yarn keeps the skin and fabric contact dry.
  • the hydrophobic yarn may be obtained by hydrophobic functional finishing, or may be directly selected to have hydrophobicity in view of the requirements of the yarns having different surface energy (pro/hydrophobic) yarns mentioned in the foregoing design.
  • Characteristic yarns such as polypropylene.
  • the hydrophilic yarn may be a cotton yarn, a polyester or nylon yarn having moisture absorbing and quick drying properties, or a cellulose synthetic yarn.
  • Hydrophilic aquifer (2) The main function is to keep the liquid water transferred from the water-repellent water-conducting layer (1) here, and to quickly and efficiently evaporate to take away heat and keep it in the absence of sweat. Air can still provide a certain degree of warmth under the condition of lighter weight per unit of fabric.
  • the hydrophilic water guiding/water storage layer is composed of 100% hydrophilic yarn, and the fabric structure may be a plain weave structure or a three-dimensional space structure.
  • the 3-dimensional space structure is used to increase the thickness of the fabric, the effective area and the ventilation effect inside the fabric without increasing the weight, thereby achieving the effect of quick drying and rapid heat dissipation. Therefore, the logic function layer is specially named in the present invention.
  • hydrophilic water-drying layer (optional).
  • a certain proportion of odor and/or antibacterial function can be appropriately interlaced in the yarn used in the hydrophilic water storage layer (2) to achieve the odor generated during long wearing.
  • the ratio of the odor and/or antibacterial functional yarn to the hydrophilic thread may be from 1:1 to 1:10, preferably 1:5.
  • the hydrophilic water storage layer (2) fiber preferably has a synthetic fiber with a profiled cross section, and utilizes a capillary effect to achieve rapid diffusion and evaporation of liquid water.
  • Visual interference layer (3) Its main function is to prevent the liquid water in the hydrophilic water storage layer (2) from reaching the visual interference layer (3) while changing the visual interference layer (3) while maintaining the good gas permeability of the fabric. Optical properties. At the same time, the water vapor generated by the evaporation of the liquid water in the hydrophilic water storage layer (2) can smoothly leave the fabric, and the surface of the fabric (3) is weakened by visual fluoroscopy to see the hydrophilic water storage layer. Water traces in (2).
  • the visual interference layer (3) consists of 100% hydrophobic yarn.
  • the outer surface of the visual interference layer may be a plain weave or a three-dimensional structure to reduce the specular effect and further interfere with the reflection of the visual light. It is well known in the art that fabrics woven from hydrophobic yarns have hydrophobic properties and their water pressure resistance is related to the tightness of the fabric structure.
  • the outer surface of the visual interference layer can be further processed by means of printing, sanding, fluffing and the like to reduce the specular reflection of the light on the surface of the fabric to reduce or interfere with the printing of the sweat.
  • the fabric is a non-see-through fabric, that is, the lower the transparency of the fabric, the better.
  • the implementation method of the patent may be that the above three functional logic layers are independently woven and finished according to the design requirements, and then the layer fabric is realized by the bonding method; The functional yarn is achieved by a weaving method at one time.
  • a hydrophobic yarn and a plain yarn/hydrophilic yarn are woven on a double needle bed apparatus to realize a woven fabric having a mesh structure, a flat cloth structure, and an intermediate interlayer.
  • the final effect is that the outermost layer is a hydrophobic fabric, the middle interlayer is a hydrophilic yarn interlayer, and the innermost layer is a mesh fabric of hydrophobic yarn woven.
  • the innermost layer of the hydrophobic mesh fabric and the intermediate layer are hydrophilic to form a single-guide water effect.
  • Hydrophobic yarn PET 75D/72f SD DTY, supplier: South Asia Processing Wire Co., Ltd.
  • Hydrophilic yarn PET 50D/72f SD DTY single pack PU 70D, supplier: Shenghong polyester yarn + INVISTA spandex, company internal wrap
  • GB1, GB2 uses hydrophobic yarn, the weaving reverse changes through the satin structure, revealing the mesh effect on the fabric (see Figure 3 for the gauze number);
  • GB3 uses hydrophilic core-spun yarn to connect the front and back fabrics to form a sandwich (The dunnage number is shown in Figure 4);
  • GB 4 uses hydrophobic yarn, and the full-fitting method is used to weave the reverse flat structure, which is exposed on the fabric as a flat cloth effect.
  • Warp knitting used in warp knitting is a warp knitting used in warp knitting
  • Warping machine model Karl Mayer DS 21/30 NC-2, passive yarn feeding.
  • Warping temperature 25 ° C warping humidity: 65%
  • the workshop sets the process parameters under the above conditions of temperature and humidity.
  • GB2 GB3 hydrophobic yarn: PET 75D/72f SD DTY threading method: 5 wear 1 empty;
  • GB4 PET 50D/72f SD DTY single package PU 70D threading method: full wear
  • GB5 Hydrophobic yarn: PET 75D/72f SD DTY threading method: full wear.
  • TNJ54159FX2 45% polybutylene terephthalate RB, 55% polyester SD; 85g/sq.m
  • TNJ54159FX2 45% polybutylene terephthalate RB, 55% polyester SD; 85g/sq.m
  • EJ8319FX2 (82% nylon SD, 18% spandex, unit weight 85g/sq.m) is the grey fabric 2, and the cloth bottom will be the bottom of the fabric after the composite lamination.
  • both the grey fabric 1 and the grey fabric 2 have good hydrophilicity after being tested.
  • the water droplets are on the surface of the cloth, and the water droplets on the surface of the mirror are all less than 2 seconds, showing good hydrophilicity. therefore,
  • the fabric 1 was subjected to a fabric-free fluorine-free waterproof finishing.
  • a fabric-free fluorine-free waterproof finishing There have been many reports on the process and technology of fluorine-free waterproof finishing.
  • the German Rudolf BIONIC FINISH fluorine-free water-repellent finishing agent RUCO-DRYECO was selected.
  • the additive does not contain APEO polymer and is impregnated-baked-baked.
  • the grey fabric 2 since the grey fabric 2 also exhibits good hydrophilicity, in order to attain the idea of the present invention: when the bottom surface of the fabric is in contact with the human skin, it is also kept as dry as possible during the sweating process, and the sweat is required to be transmitted. Into the middle layer of the fabric (hydrophilic water storage layer). It is also necessary to increase the surface energy difference between the fabric bottom and the fabric intermediate layer material. From this surface energy difference combined with the capillary effect, water is automatically transferred from the cloth bottom to the middle or the cloth surface. Therefore, the cloth bottom of the grey fabric 2 is subjected to a water-repellent one-side printing-drying-baking method.
  • the German Rudolf BIONIC FINISH fluorine-free water repellent finishing agent RUCO-DRYECO is still selected. There have been many reports on the fabric single-guide wet finishing process, and will not be repeated here.
  • the processed fabric inspection method is AATCC-195 standard.
  • the cloth surface of the grey fabric 1 is a cloth surface of a new composite laminated cloth, and the cloth bottom of the grey fabric 2 is bonded to the cloth bottom of the composite laminated cloth.
  • the lamination bonding process is already well established in the industry and is used here.
  • the fabric obtained by this process forms three layers of different characteristics in the thickness direction, from the cloth bottom to the cloth surface:
  • Water-repellent water-conducting layer This layer is subjected to a single-guide wet finishing, and when the sweat arrives, it will be transferred to the cloth surface of the grey cloth 2, that is, the middle of the new composite cloth;
  • Hydrophilic water storage layer The cloth surface of the grey fabric 2 becomes a hydrophilic water storage layer here. When liquid water arrives here, it is further diffused and evaporated due to its hydrophilic nature;
  • the composite fabric obtained in Example 1 can be further subjected to pile finishing on the outer surface by increasing the surface fluff to further reduce the transparency of the cloth surface and reduce the watermark in the hydrophilic water storage layer. trace.
  • the composite fabric obtained in Example 1 can be further subjected to printing treatment on the outer surface to achieve visual interference through the pattern and color;
  • the fabric of the first embodiment further composites the waterproof and breathable membrane between the fabric 1 and the fabric 2 during lamination bonding, so as to better prevent the transfer and reduction of the liquid water to the outer surface.
  • the visual effect of a small watermark is a small watermark.
  • the gray fabric 1 in the second embodiment is continuously selected; the gray cloth 2 is selected from a laboratory-made cotton woven single-guide wet fabric.
  • the patent entitled “Woven fabric with moisture management properties” (CN200580001677.6).
  • the fabric 1 is processed in accordance with step 2 (a) of the second embodiment
  • the gray fabric 1 in the second embodiment is continuously selected; the gray cloth 2 is selected from a laboratory-made cotton single-guide wet nonwoven fabric.
  • the gray cloth 2 is selected from a laboratory-made cotton single-guide wet nonwoven fabric.
  • the fabric 1 is processed in accordance with step 2 (a) of the second embodiment

Abstract

一种适用于日常运动与生活穿着的功能性面料的设计与制备方法。通过将织物设计成正反两面具有不同亲疏水功能特性的织物，并且该织物按亲疏水功能区分逻辑上可以具有至少三层结构，由布底向布面，拒水性导水层(1)、亲水性储水层(2)及视觉干扰层(3)，从而实现了织物在穿着过程中出汗时，织物不但能将汗液从布底面排离以保持皮肤与布面接触的干爽与舒适的感觉，同时也降低汗水在布面形成明显的水迹或汗迹的可能从而保持了穿着者优雅的外观，也提高了服装防雨的能力，本设计原理适用于针织，梭织及无纺布结构。

Description

一种在运动过程中保持穿着舒适及优雅外观织物 技术领域
本发明涉及纺织功能面料设计与制备领域，尤其涉及一种织物在穿着过程中，特别是在出汗时，织物不但能将汗液从布底排离以保持皮肤与布底微环境的干爽与穿着热湿舒适感觉性，同时也降低汗水在布面形成明显的水迹或汗迹的可能，从而保持了穿着者优雅的外观与视觉的舒适。
背景技术
随着经济的发展，现代消费者越来越重视个人的生活方式的改进与生活质量的提升。不仅仅追求自身的生理心理方面的健康，更努力寻求个人发展及社会认同。在这一过程中努力实现个人，人与人，人与自然之间的和谐与共荣。因此广大消费者对服装在使用过程中越来越注重穿着的舒适性及穿着过程中的服装礼仪。传统的服装设计通常侧重于服装的装饰性或美观，满足使用者能符合某一社群的礼仪与规则的需求；近代发展的功能服装设计则侧重于对使用者个体的防护(功能)，而弱于对美观，特别是礼仪方面需求的考量。
例如，假设某人早上运动后或上班途中出汗了，回到工作地却没有时间洗澡更衣，接下来就需要参加一些商务的活动。此时如果服装面料无论是普通全棉类的还是吸湿快干或吸湿排汗功能类的面料通常都在出汗后在面料的正面出现汗迹或水印，而影响了服装外观的优雅，不太适合正式的商务活动，恐有失基本礼仪。因此在现代生活中人们需要一种能满足不同运动条件，适应多种场景的功能面料服装。希望有一种面料在运动出汗时能将汗液排离面料底面，而保持穿着的舒适感，同时又不会在面料的外表面形成水印而影响观瞻。
通过对专利库的检索，许多现有技术已经对面料的吸湿快干或单向导湿功能进行了广泛的研究。例如CN1985036A“具有水分管理性能的机织织物”报道了一种 机织织物由疏水性和亲水性材料的通常均匀机织的结构组成，并且具有疏水性和亲水性材料的内部和外部暴露表面。从而实现了汗水由布底向布面的单向传递。基于织物表面能的差别导致液态水的单向流动这一基本原理，出现了诸多新的专利报道。CN207044828U“单向导湿面料”通过原棉纱线与亲水纱线交织而成的局部拒水纱，及表层纱布的亲水纱线支数大于里层纱布的原棉纱线。从而无需任何化学处理工艺实现了单向导湿。又如CN206033999U“单向导湿吸湿发热针织面料”通过不同纱线的搭配组合使得该面料具有单向导湿的功能，同时还实现了吸湿发热的功能。
这一些现有技术较好地解决了皮肤表面的汗水向外排湿而提高了穿着过程中的热湿舒适性，但是也存在着此类功能面料的外表面比无此功能的面料因为更多的汗水到达而更容易出现水迹。因此目前在服装设计中为了避免出现令人尴尬的汗印，人们有时会将单导面料反底为面，反过来应用。使得汗水不排出去，尽量锁在里面。如此设计方法虽然在一定程度上缓解了外观的水印问题，但由于汗水无法排出而穿着者的舒适感下降了许多，同时由于面料的可透视程度不一，轻薄型面料在布底的水印往往在布面还是可以被观察到。
近年来，无汗迹(印)功能面料的研究获得业界的关注。已经可以检索到相关关键词的专利报导。例如CN201610612603.6“一种织物防汗迹整理工艺”其选用亲水性的非离子柔软剂，通过对织物进行吸湿排汗柔软处理，使汗液可以瞬间吸收和挥发，透气性良好，穿着舒适；选用复配的涂层助剂，可在针织织物表面形成带有很多透气微细气孔的薄膜涂层，并且每个微细孔都比汗液小又比人体的汗气分子大，通过将汗液以气态的形式散发出去，从而使汗渍在织物表面不留痕迹。
CN103161045A“一种吸湿排汗针织织物的防汗迹整理方法”报道了一种工艺流程：
针织织物柔软加工→调浆→针织织物正面防汗迹加工→防汗迹检验→培烘。通过对 针织织物进行吸湿排汗柔软处理，使汗液可以瞬间吸收和挥发；再以涂料印花的方式，在针织织物表面形成带有很多透气微细气孔的薄膜涂层，并且每个微细孔都比汗液小又比人体的汗气分子大，通过将汗液以气态的形式散发出去，从而使汗渍在服装外表不留痕迹，因此，起到了防汗迹的效果。CN107447531A“一种防汗迹T恤的制备工艺”涉及一种防汗迹T恤的制备工艺，包括如下步骤：(1)T恤吸水速干处理；(2)制备防水涂料，该防水涂料是由以下重量份的组分组成：C6防水剂TG-552150-60份、有机硅防水剂36-44份和异氰酸酯4-6份；(3)T恤正面防汗迹加工；(4)T恤后处理。防汗迹T恤的制备工艺，优选复配的防水涂料，使用涂层机对T恤表面进行涂层，可在T恤表面形成带有很多透气微细气孔的薄膜涂层，从而将汗液以气态的形式散发出去，进而使汗渍在T恤表面不留痕迹，在保持T恤原有弹性的基础上，T恤非常均匀的达到防汗迹效果，并且没有透影的出现。
综合上述专利检索分析，防汗迹的整理目前所基于的基本原理是通过对织物进行吸湿快干的整理，再进一步在织物的外表面进行涂层处理。织物吸收的液体通过蒸发以气态的方式穿过薄膜。但是存在这样的一种情况：无论织物以多快的速度蒸发快干，织物都会有一个先润湿然后再蒸发最后才达到干爽这样的一个过程。在这一过程中，由于面料中含有液态水，因此当我们的视线到达含水织物表面时，由于织物中水对光线的折射，反射特性与无水状态时的织物不同这造成水迹的视觉效果；同时如果从技术上将液态水阻止在布底也造成使用者的穿着舒适体验的下降。
发明内容
针对前述提出的情况，吸湿快干面料理论上说布面与布底都有一个润湿过程，某一个时间段内由于织物中，特别是织物的外表面由于有液态水的存在，光线在织物中和/或表面的传递特性被改变。因为含水织物的光学特性如反射，透射，散射或吸收等相对于未含水同一织物有显著不同，因此当视线到达织物表面后通过织物表 面的反射，散射等多种方法再回到我们眼睛，就会发现与未含水部分的视象效果的差异进而在我们大脑中形成了水迹的认知。有关光线到达织物表面而被我们眼睛所看见的原理如图二所示。
因此基于上述对织物中汗迹(水印)形成机理的理解，本发明提出了一种新的概念与实现工艺来解除汗迹在穿着过程中对使用者的困惑同时又能提高使用者的穿着舒适体验。本发明对织物设计的基本原则是让汗液从织物的底面(临近穿着者皮肤面)尽可能多地传递到织物的中间层；在此中间层进行储存与蒸发；在织物的外面尽量阻止中间层的液体向外表面的渗透，使得外表面在一定厚度范围内存在一个不能被润湿的区域。同时由于视觉效果取决于环境光源的织物对光波的吸收与反射特性，因此通过织物结构设计提高光线反射和散射机会；或通过印花等手段形成一个视觉上非透明的外表面以减弱外表面的镜面反射和被透视的效果，从而解决了织物表面因含水所导致水渍/汗渍问题。
本发明提出一种在运动过程中保持穿着舒适及优雅外观的织物，所述织物按功能逻辑上至少具有三层结构，由布底向布面，分别为拒水性导水层(1)；亲水性储水层(2)及视觉干扰层(3)；其中亲水性储水层(2)又可以进一步分解为亲水性导水/储水层(2.1)与亲水性导水/快干层(2.2)。
所述拒水性导水层(1)的主要功能是当面料接触汗水时能将液体快速地吸离织物的表面，从而使皮肤与面料的接触保持干爽；其实现方法可以是选用亲水性纱和/或疏水性纱线交织/后整理方式构成拒水性导水层，并且疏水性纱线在布底的覆盖面积大于50％，优选为65-85％，从而使亲水性纱形成导水通道。拒水性导水层(1)选100％疏水性纱线构成大网眼结构，镂空面积在10％-85％之间，优选30％；水可以通过网眼的空隙直接与亲水性导水/储水层相接触而被吸收；同时疏水低回潮率纱线又能使皮肤与面料的接触保持干爽。
亲水性导水/储水层由100％亲水纱构成,织物结构可以是平纹组织是结构,也可以是3维空间结构；优选具有异型纤维截面的合成纤维，利用毛细效应以达到液态水的快速扩散与蒸发。
视觉干扰层由100％疏水性纱线组成，其外表面织物组织结构可以是平纹，优选是三维空间结构以达到进一步干扰光线的反射，面料其透明度越低越好。视觉干扰层的外表面可以进一步通过印花，磨毛，抓毛等后加工手段达到建立三维空间结构，减小织物表面的镜面反射能力达到减小或干扰汗迹的反射。
本织物可以选用符合条件的多层织物通过贴合的方法实现，也可以选用功能纱线通过编织的方法一次或分步实现；本发明的设计原理适用于针织，梭织及无纺布结构。为实现在穿着过程中特别是出汗时既能保持皮肤干爽与舒适的感觉又能在织物的外表面降低汗水形成水迹或汗迹的可能，本发明公开了一种具有特定正反两面不同功能的织物的设计与制备方法，从而满足了穿着者既舒适干爽的穿着体验要求又保持了穿着者优雅的外观。某种程度上还能提高使用者抵抗外部环境的能力，织物的外表面不容易被沾湿或沾污，易于清理。
附图说明
图1描述无汗迹面料设计原理图；
图2描述光线到达织物表面再传递特性；
图3描述GB1和GB2垫纱图；
图4描述GB1和GB2垫纱图；
图5描述GB5垫纱图；
图6为典型无汗迹面料后整理实现工艺流程。
具体实施方式
下面将结合附图对本发明的实施方式作进一步的详细描述。
如图一所示，该织物在厚度方向按功能区分逻辑上至少具有三层结构，由布底向布面，拒水性导水层(1)；亲水性储水层(2)及视觉干扰层(3)；其中亲水性储水层(2)又可以进一步分解为亲水性导水/储水层(2.1)与亲水性导水/快干层(2.2)；
拒水性导水层(1)：它的主要功能是当面料接触在汗水时能将液体快速地吸离织物的表面，从而使皮肤与面料的接触保持干爽。业内公知的吸湿快干技术，单向导湿排汗技术等都有助于此功能的实现。在本发明中基于提高消费者舒适感体验的需求出发，本发明优选以亲水性纱线和/或疏水性纱线交织/后整理方式构成拒水导水层，并且疏水性纱线在布底的覆盖面积大于50％，优选约65-85％，保留一定比例的亲水纱形成导水通道；另一个优选的技术方案是拒水性导水层选100％疏水性纱线构成大网眼结构，镂空面积10％-80％之间，优选30％。水可以通过网眼的空隙直接与亲水性导水/储水层相接触而被吸收。同时疏水低回潮率纱又能使皮肤与面料的接触保持干爽。
针对前述设计中所提到具有不同表面能(亲/疏水性)纱线的要求，在本发明中疏水性纱线可以是亲水性纱线经过疏水性功能整理得到，也可以直接选用具有疏水特性的纱线，例如丙纶。所述亲水纱可以是棉纱，具有吸湿快干特性的涤纶或尼龙纱，也可以是纤维素合成纱线。
亲水性储水层(2)：主要功能是将拒水性导水层(1)传递过来的液态水保持在此，并在此快速有效地进行蒸发以带走热量，在无汗状态下保持空气，在较轻织物单位重量的条件下仍能提供一定的保暖能力。亲水性导水/储水层由100％亲水纱构成，织物结构可以是平纹组织结构,也可以是3维空间结构。优选3维空间结构以利于相对平纹织物在不增加重量前提下增加织物厚度，蒸发有效面积及织物内部的通风效果，达到快干与快速散热之功效，因此在本发明中特别命名此逻辑功能层为亲 水性导水快干层(可选)。对于穿着时间较长的织物设计，在亲水性储水层(2)所用的纱线中可以适当地交织一定比例的除异味和/或抗菌功能以达到在长时间穿着过程中所产生的异味；除异味和/或抗菌功能纱线与亲水线的比例可以是1：1至1：10，优选1：5。
为了进一步提升织物快干的效果，亲水性储水层(2)纤维优选具有异型截面的合成纤维，利用毛细效应以达到液态水的快速扩散与蒸发。
视觉干扰层(3)：它的主要功能是在保持织物良好透气性的同时，防止亲水性储水层(2)中的液态水到达视觉干扰层(3)而改变视觉干扰层(3)的光学特性。同时也要让亲水性储水层(2)中的液态水因蒸发所产生的水汽能顺利地离开织物，也利用层(3)织物表面减弱视觉上的透视而看见亲水性储水层(2)中的水迹。
视觉干扰层(3)由100％疏水性纱线组成。视觉干扰层的外表面可以是平纹，也可以是三维空间结构以达到减弱镜面效应，进一步干扰视觉光线的反射。业内公知由疏水性纱线编织而成的面料具有疏水特性，并且其耐水压能力与织物组织结构的紧密度相关。视觉干扰层的外表面可以进一步通过印花，磨毛，抓毛等后加工手段以减弱光线在织物表面的镜面反射，达到减小或干扰汗迹印的目的。优选面料为非透视面料，也就是面料的透明度越低越好。
根据上述创新设计的原理与技术要求，本专利的实现方法可以是将上述三个功能逻辑层独立按设计要求进行编织及整理，然后将此层织物通过贴合的方法实现；也可以选用相应的功能纱线通过编织的方法一次实现。
发明实例一
本实例采用疏水性纱线和普通纱线/亲水纱线在双针床设备上编织，实现一面有网孔结构，一面平布结构，同时含有中间夹层的编织面料。最终效果为最外层为疏水面料，中间夹层为亲水纱线夹层，最里层为疏水性纱线编织的网孔面料。最里层 疏水网孔面料与中间层亲水形成单向导水效果。
疏水性纱线为：PET 75D/72f SD DTY，供应商:南亚加工丝有限公司
亲水纱线为：PET 50D/72f SD DTY单包PU 70D，供应商:盛虹涤纶丝+英威达氨纶，公司内部包纱
GB1,GB2采用疏水性纱线，编织反向变化经缎结构，显露在织物上呈网布效果(垫纱数码见附图三)；GB3采用亲水性包芯纱，连接前后面料，形成夹层(垫纱数码见附图四)；GB 4，GB 5采用疏水性纱线，满穿方式编织反向经平结构，显露在织物上为平布效果。
1、经编所用纱线整经:
整经机机型：Karl Mayer DS 21/30 NC-2，消极式送纱。
整经温度：25℃整经湿度：65％
车间在上述温湿度的条件下，设置工艺参数。
2、织造
织造机器型号：Karl·Mayer RD7/2-12EL。
机号范围：E24
织物纱线及穿纱方式:
GB2 GB3:疏水性纱线：PET 75D/72f SD DTY穿纱方式：5穿1空；
GB4：PET 50D/72f SD DTY单包PU 70D穿纱方式：满穿；
GB5、GB6:疏水性纱线：PET 75D/72f SD DTY穿纱方式：满穿。
垫纱图：见附图三,四,五
幅宽：140厘米
克重：330克/平方米
3，染整
水洗→预定→溢流染→脱水→后整
发明实例二
为了快速实现本发明功能，后整理的方法也在本实例中得到成功应用。其具体实现步骤如图六如示，并描述如下：
图六典型无汗迹面料后整理实现工艺流程
1.选择东莞超盈纺织有限公司
(1)TNJ54159FX2(45％聚对苯二甲酸丁二酯RB,55％polyester SD；85g/sq.m)为坯布1，其布面将在复合层压后为布面；
(2)EJ8319FX2(82％尼龙SD,18％氨纶，单位重量85g/sq.m)为坯布2，其布底将在复合层压后为布底。
2.根据图六流程，坯布1与坯布2经检测都呈现较好的亲水性。根据AATCC79测试标准将水滴在布表面，水滴在布面镜面反射消失时间都小于2秒，表现出较好的亲水性。因此，
(1)在本实例中对坯布1进行织物无氟防水整理。有关无氟防水整理工艺与技术已经有许多先有报道。本实例中选用了德国鲁道夫BIONIC FINISH无氟拒水整理剂RUCO-DRYECO。该助剂不含APEO聚合物，采用浸渍-烘干-焙烘的整理方式。
(2)在本实例中由于坯布2也表现出较好的亲水性，为了达到本发明设想：面料底面与人体皮肤相接触时在出汗过程中也尽量保持干爽的感觉，需要将汗水传递进面料的中间层(亲水储水层)。也就需要将面料底与面料中间层材料的表面能差异提高。由这表面能差结合毛细效应将水自动地由布底传输到布的中间或布面。因此对坯布2的布底进行拒水性单面印花-烘干-焙烘方式整理。仍选用了德国鲁道夫BIONIC FINISH无氟拒水整理剂RUCO-DRYECO。有关织物单向导湿整理工艺已有诸多报道，在此不作重复。处理后面料检测方法为AATCC-195标准。
3.将坯布1的布面为新的复合层压布的布面，坯布2的布底为复合层压布的布底进行粘合。层压粘合之工艺已经是业界成熟的技术，并在此被采用。
4.由此过程所获得的面料在其厚度方向形成了三个不同特性的层次，由布底向布面：
(1)拒水性导水层：此层由于经过了单向导湿的整理，汗液到达时将会向坯布2的布面也就是新复合布的中间传递；
(2)亲水性储水层：坯布2的布面在此成为亲水储水层。液态水到达此处时，由于其亲水特性在此被进一步扩散和蒸发；
(3)视觉干扰层：坯布1由于经过了拒水整理，因此阻止了液态水继续向坯布1外表面方向的传递，并且坯布1也不容易被润湿。因此从布面方向看织物的水印现象被显著地减弱。
(4)为了进一步降低织物外观的水印，实例一所得到的复合面料在外表面可以进一步进行起绒整理通过增加表面的绒毛以达到进一步降低布面的透明度与减小亲水储水层中水印的痕迹。
(5)为了进一步降低织物外观的水印，实例一所得到的复合面料在外表面可以进一步进行印花处理通过图案与色彩达到视觉的干扰；
(6)为了进一步降低织物外观的水印，实例一所述的织物在层压粘合时在坯布1与坯布2之间进一步复合防水透气膜，达到较好地阻止液态水向外表的传递及减小水印的视觉效果。
发明实例三
在发明实例二的基础上，继续选用实例二中的坯布1；坯布2选择实验室自制的全棉梭织单向导湿面料。详细制作工艺请参阅本发明人授权专利“具有水分管理性能的机织织物”(CN200580001677.6)。
因此在坯布2上我们直接得到了疏水导水层与亲水储水层；
坯布1跟随实例二中的2(a)步骤进行处理；
并重复实例二的步骤3与4得到最终产品。
发明实例四
在发明实例二的基础上，继续选用实例二中的坯布1；坯布2选择实验室自制的全棉单向导湿无纺布。详细制作工艺请参阅本发明人授权专利“无纺布及其制造方法”(CN201010251772.4)。
因此在坯布2上我们直接得到了拒水性导水层与亲水性储水层；
坯布1跟随实例二中的2(a)步骤进行处理；
并重复实例二的步骤3与4得到最终产品。

Claims (11)

  1. 一种在运动过程中保持穿着舒适及优雅外观的织物，所述织物按功能逻辑上至少具有三层结构，由布底向布面，分别为拒水性导水层(1)；亲水性储水层(2)及视觉干扰层(3)；其中亲水性储水层(2)又可以进一步分解为亲水性导水/储水层(2.1)与亲水性导水/快干层(2.2)。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的织物，其特征在于拒水性导水层(1)的主要功能是当面料接触汗水时能将液体快速地吸离织物的表面，从而使皮肤与面料的接触保持干爽；其实现方法可以是选用亲水性纱线和/或疏水性纱线交织/后整理方式构成拒水性导水层，并且疏水性纱在布底的覆盖面积大于50％，从而使亲水性纱形成导水通道。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的织物，其特征在于疏水性纱线在布底的覆盖面积为65-85％。
  4. 根据权利要求2所述的织物，其特征在于拒水性导水层(1)选100％疏水性纱线构成大网眼结构，镂空面积在10％-85％之间；水可以通过网眼的空隙直接与亲水性导水/储水层相接触而被吸收；同时疏水低回潮率纱线又能使皮肤与面料的接触保持干爽。
  5. 根据权利要求4所述的织物，其特征在于拒水性导水层(1)选100％疏水纱线构成大网眼结构，镂空面积为30％。
  6. 根据权利要求2或4所述的织物，其特征在于疏水性纱线可以是亲水性纱线经过疏水性功能整理得到，也可以直接选用疏水性纱线，优选是丙纶。
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的织物，其特征在于亲水性导水/储水层由100％亲水纱构成,织物结构可以是平纹组织是结构,也可以是3维空间结构；优选具有异型纤维截面的合成纤维，利用毛细效应以达到液态水的快速扩散与蒸发。
  8. 根据权利要求7所述的织物，其特征在于亲水性导水/储水层纱线可以复合选择除异味和/或抗菌功能以达到在长时穿着过程中减弱所产生的异味。
  9. 根据权利要求1所述的织物，其特征在于视觉干扰层由100％疏水性纱线组成，视觉干扰层的外表面织物组织结构可以是平纹，优选是三维空间结构以达到进一步干扰光线的反射，面料其透明度越低越好。
  10. 根据权利要求9所述的织物，其特征在于视觉干扰层的外表面可以进一步通过印花，磨毛，抓毛等后加工手段达到建立三维空间结构，减小织物表面的镜面反射能力达到减小或干扰汗迹的反射。
  11. 根据权利要求1所述的织物,其特征在于本织物可以选用符合条件的多层织物通过贴合的方法实现，也可以选用功能纱线通过编织的方法一次或分步实现；本发明的设计原理适用于针织，梭织及无纺布结构。
PCT/CN2019/070230 2018-05-16 2019-01-03 一种在运动过程中保持穿着舒适及优雅外观织物 WO2019218700A1 (zh)

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