WO2019115289A1

WO2019115289A1 - Composition of gel/gel type based on pigments, at least one saturated linear c3-c8 dihydroxyalkane and salicylic acid in free form

Info

Publication number: WO2019115289A1
Application number: PCT/EP2018/083479
Authority: WO
Inventors: Micheline El Achkar; Chrystel Paute
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2017-12-15
Filing date: 2018-12-04
Publication date: 2019-06-20
Also published as: FR3075053A1; FR3075053B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, especially comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, especially for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, containing: -at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and -at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture and said composition also comprising: i) at least one pigment in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and ii) at least one saturated linear C3-C8 dihydroxyalkane; and iii) salicylic acid in free form. The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined previously.

Description

Composition of gel/gel type based on pigments, at least one saturated linear C₃-C₈ dihydroxyalkane and salicylic acid in free form

The present invention is directed towards proposing for the field of caring for and/or making up keratin materials, especially the skin and/or the lips, and in particular the skin, and keratin fibres, especially the eyebrows, a novel presentation form that is most particularly advantageous with regard to its technical performance and the sensations it affords the user during its application thereto, in particular to the skin.

The term "keratin materials" especially means the skin, the lips, the eyebrows and/or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or the eyebrows, and preferably the skin.

Cosmetic compositions, for example foundations, are commonly used to give the skin an aesthetic colour, but also to hide and/or unify imperfections of the skin relief such as wrinkles and/or fine lines and/or scars. In this regard, many solid or fluid, anhydrous or non-anhydrous formulations have been developed to date.

Multi-phase compositions exist at the present time, which are advantageous as regards the makeup properties they impart, especially a matt effect and coverage, and persistence of the makeup.

"Gel-gel" compositions have already been proposed in the cosmetics field and are particularly advantageous as alternatives to emulsions, which have a tendency to give a substantial greasy and tacky sensation, lack of freshness and lack of lightness for the textures obtained. Formulations of this type combine a gelled aqueous phase with a gelled oily phase. Thus, gel/gel formulations are described in Almeida et al ., Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13:487, tables 1 and 2, page 488; WO 99/65455; PI 0405758-9; WO 99/62497; JP 2005-1 12834 and WO 2008/081 175, FR 2 984 736, FR 3 002 444, FR 3 004 343, FR 3 021 533, WO 14/128 680, WO 14/128 678, FR 3 025 075, FR 3 025 100 and WO 2017/102359.

Flowever, these formulations are not entirely satisfactory. Specifically, the use of pigments in high contents (> 10% by weight) has a tendency to induce in this type of presentation form an impairment in the cosmetic properties of the composition, especially on account of a large thickness, an uneven coarse appearance, heterogeneous dispersion of the pigments and impairment in the stability of the composition, especially due to release of oil after one month and at all temperatures. In particular, patent application WO 2017/129237 describes gel-gel compositions based on pigments and comprising salicylic acid in a form neutralized with an alkanolamine. In these compositions, the use of the free form of salicylic acid (not neutralized with the alkanolamine) does not make it possible to obtain a homogeneous dispersion of the pigments.

There thus remains a need to find novel formulations of the gel-gel type which give good makeup properties such as good coverage, good sensory properties such as freshness and lightness on application and also good persistence over time without the drawbacks mentioned previously.

The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that this objective can be achieved with a composition, especially comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, especially for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, containing:

- at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and

- at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture and said composition also comprising:

i) at least one pigment in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

ii) at least one saturated linear C3-C8 dihydroxyalkane; and

iii) salicylic acid in free form.

The compositions in gel/gel form in accordance with the invention are stable on storage, and have a smooth appearance and homogeneous dispersion of the pigments. They give good makeup properties such as good coverage, good sensory properties such as freshness and lightness on application and also good persistence over time.

These discoveries form the basis of the invention.

Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, especially comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, especially for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, containing:

ii) at least one saturated linear C3-C8 dihydroxyalkane; and

iii) salicylic acid in free form.

The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined previously.

Definitions

In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin material" means especially the skin (body, face, area around the eyes), the lips, the eyelashes and the eyebrows. More particularly, the term "keratin material" means the skin. The term“physiologically acceptable” means compatible with the skin and/or its integuments, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.

The term "saturated linear C3-C8 dihydroxyalkane" means a linear alkane compound not including any double or triple bonds and comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

The term "salicylic acid in free form" means that the salicylic acid is in the free form not salified with a mineral base such as alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia, or alternatively with an organic base such as an amine or an alkanolamine.

GEL-GEL

To begin with, it is important to note that a composition according to the invention of gel-gel type is different from an emulsion.

An emulsion is generally constituted by an oily liquid phase and an aqueous liquid phase. It is a dispersion of droplets of one of the two liquid phases in the other. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed phase of the emulsion is typically about a micrometre (0.1 to 100 pm). Furthermore, an emulsion requires the presence of a surfactant or of an emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.

In contrast, a composition according to the invention is constituted of a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two immiscible gelled phases. These two phases both have a gel-type texture. This texture is especially reflected visually by a consistent and/or creamy appearance.

The term "macroscopically homogeneous mixture " means a mixture in which each of the gelled phases cannot be individualized by the naked eye.

More precisely, in a composition according to the invention, the gelled aqueous phase and the gelled oily phase interpenetrate and thus form a stable, consistent product. This consistency is achieved by mixing interpenetrated macrodomains. These interpenetrated macrodomains are not measurable objects. Thus, by microscope, the composition according to the invention is very different from an emulsion. A composition according to the invention also cannot be characterized as having a " sense ", i.e. an O/W or W/O sense.

Thus, a composition according to the invention has a consistency of gel type. The stability of the composition is long lasting without surfactant. Consequently, a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, according to the invention does not require any surfactant or silicone emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.

It is known practice from the prior art to observe the intrinsic nature of a mixture of aqueous and oily gels in a composition of gel-gel type, for example, by introducing a dyestuff either into the aqueous gelled phase or into the lipophilic gelled phase, before the formation of the composition of gel-gel type. During visual inspection, in a composition of gel-gel type, the dyestuff appears uniformly dispersed, even if the dye is present solely in the gelled aqueous phase or in the gelled oily phase. Specifically, if two different dyes of different colours are introduced, respectively, into the oily phase and into the aqueous phase, before formation of the composition of gel-gel type, the two colours may be observed as being uniformly dispersed throughout the composition of gel-gel type. This is different from an emulsion in which, if a dye, which is soluble in water or soluble in oil, is introduced, respectively, into the aqueous and oily phases, before forming the emulsion, only the colour of the dye present in the outer phase will be observed (Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy, 19th Edition (1995), Chapter 21 , page 282).

It is also known practice to distinguish a composition of gel-gel type from an emulsion by performing a "drop test". This test consists in demonstrating the bi- continuous nature of a composition of gel-gel type. Specifically, as mentioned previously, the consistency of a composition is obtained by virtue of the interpenetration of the aqueous and oily gelled domains. Consequently, the bi- continuous nature of a composition of gel-gel type may be demonstrated by means of a simple test with, respectively, hydrophilic and hydrophobic solvents. This test consists in depositing, firstly, one drop of a hydrophilic solvent on a first sample of the tested composition, and, secondly, one drop of a hydrophobic solvent on a second sample of the same tested composition, and in analysing the behaviour of the two drops of solvents. In the case of an O/W emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent diffuses into the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent remains at the surface of the sample. In the case of a W/O emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent remains at the surface of the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent diffuses throughout the sample. Finally, in the case of a composition of gel-gel type (bi- continuous system), the hydrophilic and hydrophobic drops diffuse throughout the sample.

In the case of the present invention, the test that will be preferred for distinguishing a composition of gel-gel type from an emulsion is a dilution test. Specifically, in a composition of gel-gel type, the aqueous and oily gelled domains interpenetrate and form a consistent and stable composition, in which the behaviour in water and in oil is different from the behaviour of an emulsion. Consequently, the behaviour during dilution of a composition of gel-gel type (bi-continuous system) may be compared to that of an emulsion.

More specifically, the dilution test consists in placing 40 g of product and 160 g of dilution solvent (water or oil) in a 500 ml_ plastic beaker. The dilution is performed with controlled stirring to avoid any emulsification phenomenon. In particular, this is performed using a planetary mixer: Speed Mixer TM DAC400FVZ®. The speed of the mixer is set at 1500 rpm for 4 minutes. Finally, observation of the resulting sample is performed using a light microscope at a magnification of *100 (*10*10). It may be noted that oils such as Parleam^® and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS^® sold by Dow Corning are suitable as dilution solvent, in the same way as one of the oils contained in the composition. In the case of a composition of gel-gel type (bi-continuous system), when it is diluted in oil or in water, a heterogeneous appearance is always observed. When a composition of gel-gel type (bi-continuous system) is diluted in water, pieces of oily gel in suspension are observed, and, when a composition of gel-gel type (bi- continuous system) is diluted in oil, pieces of aqueous gel in suspension are observed.

In contrast, during dilution, emulsions have a different behaviour. When an O/W emulsion is diluted in an aqueous solvent, it gradually reduces without having a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance. This same O/W emulsion, on dilution with oil, has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of O/W emulsion suspended in the oil). When a W/O emulsion is diluted with an aqueous solvent, it has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of W/O emulsion suspended in the water). This same W/O emulsion, when diluted in oil, gradually reduces without having a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance.

According to the present invention, the aqueous gelled phase and the oily gelled phase forming a composition according to the invention are present therein in a weight ratio ranging from 95/5 to 5/95. More preferentially, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are present in a weight ratio ranging from 30/70 to 80/20.

The ratio between the two gelled phases is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties.

Thus, in the case of a makeup composition, in particular for the face, it will be advantageous to favour an aqueous gelled phase/oily gelled phase weight ratio of greater than 1 , especially ranging from 60/40 to 90/10, preferably ranging from 60/40 to 80/20, preferentially from 60/40 to 70/30 and even more preferentially to favour an aqueous gelled phase/oily gelled phase weight ratio of 60/40 or 70/30.

These preferred ratios are particularly advantageous for obtaining fresh and light compositions.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may thus be in the form of a creamy gel with a minimum stress below which it does not flow unless it has been subjected to an external mechanical stress.

As emerges from the text hereinbelow, a composition according to the invention may have a minimum threshold stress of 1 .5 Pa and in particular greater than 10 Pa.

It may also advantageously have a stiffness modulus G^* at least equal to 400 Pa and preferably greater than 1000 Pa.

According to an advantageous embodiment variant, the gelled phases under consideration for forming a composition according to the invention may have, respectively, a threshold stress of greater than 1 .5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa. Characterization of the threshold stresses is performed by oscillating rheology measurements. Methodology is proposed in the illustrative chapter of the present text.

In general, the corresponding measurements are taken at 25°C using a Haake® RS600 imposed-stress rheometer equipped with a plate-plate measuring body (60 mm diameter) fitted with an anti-evaporation device (bell jar). For each measurement, the sample is placed delicately in position and the measurements start 5 minutes after placing the sample in the jaws (2 mm). The test composition is then subjected to a stress ramp from 10 ² to 10³ Pa at a set frequency of 1 Hz.

A composition according to the invention may also have a certain elasticity. This elasticity may be characterized by a stiffness modulus G^* which, under this minimum stress threshold, may be at least equal to 400 Pa and preferably greater than 1000 Pa. The value G^* of a composition may be obtained by subjecting the composition under consideration to a stress ramp from 10 ² to 10³ Pa at a set frequency of 1 Hz.

HYDROPHILIC GELLING AGENT

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The gelling agent is hydrophilic and is thus present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

The gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.

As stated above, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention is gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

The hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin, mixed silicates and fumed silicas, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents.

I. Polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin

The polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents that are suitable for use in the invention may be natural or of natural origin.

For the purposes of the invention, the term“of natural origin" is intended to denote polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.

These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate. More specifically, these gelling agents fall within the category of polysaccharides.

In general, polysaccharides may be divided into several categories.

Thus, the polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.

Similarly, they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.

More particularly, the polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether or not they are starchy.

LA. Starchy polysaccharides

As representatives of this category, mention may be made most particularly of native starches, modified starches and particulate starches.

Native starches

The starches that may be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary moieties which are anhydroglucose units (dextrose), linked via a(1 ,4) bonds of chemical formula (C6Hio0₅)_n. The number of these moieties and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose, a molecule formed from about 600 to 1000 linearly linked glucose molecules, and amylopectin, a polymer branched approximately every 25 glucose residues (a(1 ,6) bond). The total chain may include between 10 000 and 100 000 glucose residues.

Starch is described in particular in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, 3rd edition, volume 21 , pages 492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983.

The relative proportions of amylose and of amylopectin, and their degree of polymerization, vary as a function of the botanical origin of the starches. On average, a sample of native starch consists of about 25% amylose and 75% amylopectin.

Occasionally, phytoglycogen is present (between 0 and 20% of the starch), which is an analogue of amylopectin but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues.

Starch may be in the form of semicrystalline granules: amylopectin is organized in leaflets, amylose forms a less well organized amorphous zone between the various leaflets. Amylose is organized in a straight helix with six glucoses per turn. It dissociates into assimilable glucose under the action of enzymes, amylases, all the more easily when it is in amylopectin form. Specifically, the helical formation does not promote the accessibility of starch to the enzymes.

Starches are generally in the form of a white powder, which is insoluble in cold water, of which the elemental particle size ranges from 3 to 100 microns.

By treating it with hot water, starch paste is obtained. It is exploited in industry for its thickening and gelling properties.

The botanical origin of the starch molecules used in the present invention may be cereals or else tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

The native starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C^*Amilogel™, Cargill Gel™, C^* Gel™, Cargill Gum™, DryGel™ and C^*Pharm Gel™ by the company Cargill, under the name Amidon de Mais by the company Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch.

Modified starches

The modified starches used in the composition of the invention may be modified via one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, degradation (acid hydrolysis, oxidation, dextrinization), substitution (esterification, etherification), crosslinking (esterification), bleaching.

More particularly, these reactions may be performed in the following manner:

- pregelatinization by splitting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum);

- acid hydrolysis giving rise to very rapid retrogradation on cooling;

- oxidation with strong oxidizing agents (alkaline medium, in the presence of sodium hypochlorite NaOCI for example) leading to the depolymerization of the starch molecule and to the introduction of carboxyl groups into the starch molecule (mainly oxidation of the hydroxyl group at Ce),

- dextrinization in acid medium at high temperature (hydrolysis followed by repolymerization);

- crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules, which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and/or phosphate groups);

- esterification in alkaline medium for the grafting of functional groups, especially Ci- C6 acyl (acetyl), C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl or octenylsuccinic.

Monostarch phosphates (of the type St-0-P0-(0X)₂), distarch phosphates (of the type St-O-PO-(OX)-O-St) or even tristarch phosphates (of the type St-0-P0-(0-St)₂) or mixtures thereof may especially be obtained by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds.

X especially denotes alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline-earth metals (for example calcium or magnesium), ammonia salts, amine salts, for instance those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino- 1 ,2-propanediol, or ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline.

The phosphorus compounds can, for example, be sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use amphoteric starches, these amphoteric starches containing one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

The amphoteric starches are in particular chosen from the compounds having the following formulae:

R' R

CH — CH -COOM

/

St-0 -(CH₂)-N

in which:

- St-0 represents a starch molecule; - R, which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- R’, which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group;

- n is an integer equal to 2 or 3;

- M, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li or NH₄, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine;

- R" represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

These compounds are especially described in patents US 5 455 340 and US 4 017 460.

The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, especially such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above.

The modified starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C^*Tex-lnstant® (pregelatinized adipate), C^*StabiTex-lnstant® (pregelatinized phosphate), C^*PolarTex-lnstant (pregelatinized hydroxypropyl), C^*Set (acid hydrolysis, oxidation), C^*size (oxidation), C^*BatterCrisp® (oxidation), C^*DrySet® (dextrinization), C^*TexTM (acetyl distarch adipate), C^*PolarTexTM® (hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate), C^* StabiTexTM® (distarch phosphate, acetyl distarch phosphate) by the company Cargill, by distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product sold under the references Prejel VA- 70-T AGGL® (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel TK1® (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200® (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe or Structure Zea® from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

As examples of oxidized starches, use will be made especially of those sold under the name C^*size® from the company Cargill.

The native or modified starches described above may be advantageously used in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 8% by weight of solids and preferably at about 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Particulate starches

Particulate starches that may be mentioned in particular include:

- starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and especially with sodium polyacrylate, for instance those sold under the names Sanfresh ST-100MC® by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25®, Makimousse 12® by the company Daito Kasei (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate starch),

- hydrolysed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer), and especially acryloacrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer, for instance those sold under the names Water Lock A-240®, A-180®, B-204®, D-223®, A-100®, C-200® and D-223® by the company Grain Processing (INCI name: Starch/acrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer);

- polymers based on starch, gum and cellulose derivative, such as the product containing starch and sodium carboxymethylcellulose, for instance the product sold under the name Lysorb 220® by the company Lysac.

Mention may be made most particularly of (Ci-C₄) carboxyalkyl starches, also referred to hereinbelow as carboxyalkyl starch. These compounds are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups onto one or more alcohol functions of starch, especially by reaction of starch and of sodium monochloroacetate in alkaline medium.

The carboxyalkyl groups are generally attached via an ether function, more particularly to carbon 1 . The degree of substitution with carboxyalkyl units of the (Ci- C₄) carboxyalkyl starch preferably ranges from 0.1 to 1 and more particularly from 0.15 to 0.5. The degree of substitution is defined according to the present invention as being the mean number of hydroxyl groups substituted with an ester or ether group per monosaccharide unit of the polysaccharide.

The carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously used in the form of salts and especially of salts of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as Na, K, Li, NH₄, or salts of a quaternary ammonium or of an organic amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine. The (Ci-C₄) carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously, in the context of the present invention, carboxymethyl starches. The carboxymethyl starches preferably comprise units having the following formula:

in which X, optionally covalently bonded to the carboxylic unit, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH₄, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine, for instance monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine.

Preferably, X denotes a cation Na⁺. The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably non-pregelatinized carboxyalkyl starches. The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably partially or totally crosslinked carboxyalkyl starches.

In general, a crosslinked carboxyalkyl starch has, in contrast with a non-crosslinked carboxyalkyl starch, an increased, controllable viscosity of increased stability. The crosslinking thus makes it possible to reduce the syneresis phenomena and to increase the resistance of the gel to shear effects.

The carboxyalkyl starches under consideration according to the invention are more particularly potato carboxyalkyl starches. Thus, the carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxyalkyl starch, in particular a sodium salt of potato carboxymethyl starch, sold especially under the name Primojel^® by the company DMV International or Glycolys^® and Glycolys^® LV by the company Roquette.

According to a particular mode, use will be made of the potato carboxymethyl starches sold especially under the name Glycolys^® by the company Roquette. As stated previously, the (Ci-C₄) carboxyalkyl starch particles are present in the compositions according to the invention in a swollen and non-split form. This swelling may be characterized by a swelling power Q which may advantageously be between 10 and 30 ml/g and preferably between 15 and 25 ml (volume of absorbed liquid)/g of dry particulate material.

Thus, the size of the swollen carboxyalkyl starch particles used according to the present invention generally ranges from 25 to 300 pm. For example, the gel Primojel^® containing 10% by weight of potato carboxyalkyl starch and sodium salt in water contains more than 80% of swollen particles of this starch with a diameter of greater than 50 microns and more particularly greater than 100 microns.

According to a preferred embodiment variant of the invention, these particles are used for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention, in this swollen particulate state. To do this, these particles are advantageously used in the form of an aqueous gel either prepared beforehand or already commercially available. The gels under consideration according to the invention are advantageously translucent.

For example, a carboxymethyl starch gel such as Primojel^® which is at a concentration of 10% by weight may be adjusted to the required concentration before being used for preparing the expected composition.

Such a particulate starch may be used in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 5% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight and in particular in a proportion of about 1 .5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

According to one embodiment variant, the hydrophilic gelling agent is non-starchy.

I.B. Non-starchv polysaccharides

In general, the non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabics, galactomannans, glucomannans and pectins, and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabics, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives thereof, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

These polysaccharides may be chemically modified, especially with urea or urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications.

The derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

Advantageously, the polysaccharides may be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin and pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the compounds of this type that may be used in the present invention are chosen from those described especially in Kirk-Othmer’s Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp. 439-458, in Polymers in Nature by E.A. MacGregor and C.T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, in the book by Robert L. Davidson entitled Handbook of Water-Soluble Gums and Resins published by Me Graw Hill Book Company (1980) and in Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc.

Such a gelling agent may be used in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 8% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, especially from 0.1 % to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight and in particular in a proportion of about 1 %, or alternatively in a proportion of about 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

More precisely, these polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether they are derived from microorganisms, from algae or from higher plants, and are detailed below. Polysaccharides produced by microorganisms Xanthan

Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on the industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure is constituted of a main chain of b(1 ,4)-linked b-D-glucoses, similar to cellulose. One glucose molecule in two bears a trisaccharide side chain composed of an a-D-mannose, a b-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal b-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The charged pyruvic acids and glucuronic acids are ionizable, and are thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to a pH equal to 1 ). The content of the pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups may be neutralized in commercial products with Na⁺, K⁺ or Ca²⁺ ions (Satia company, 1986). The neutralized form may be converted into the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acidic solution.

Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 000 000 and 50 000 000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1 .65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1 % of xanthan gum (measured at 25°C on a Brookfield viscometer of LVT type at 60 rpm).

Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare® by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan^® and Keltrol^® by the company CP-Kelco.

Pullulan

Pullulan is a polysaccharide constituted of maltotriose units, known under the name a(1 ,4)-a(1 ,6)-glucan. Three glucose units in maltotriose are connected via an a(1 ,4) glycoside bond, whereas the consecutive maltotriose units are connected to each other via an a(1 ,6) glycoside bond.

Pullulan is produced, for example, under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the group Hayashibara in Japan.

Dextran and dextran sulfate

Dextran is a neutral polysaccharide not bearing any charged groups, which is biologically inert, prepared by fermentation of beet sugar containing solely hydroxyl groups. It is possible to obtain dextran fractions of different molecular weights from native dextran by hydrolysis and purification. Dextran may in particular be in the form of dextran sulfate.

Dextran is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Dextran® or Dextran T® by the company Pharmacosmos, or under the name Dextran 40 Powder® or Dextran 70 Powder® by the company Meito Sangyo Co. Dextran sulfate is sold by the company PK Chemical A/S under the name Dextran sulfate.

Succinoglycan

Succinoglycan is an extracellular polymer of high molecular weight produced by bacterial fermentation, constituted of octasaccharide repeating units (repetition of 8 sugars). Succinoglycans are sold, for example, under the name Rheozan® by the company Rhodia.

Scleroalucan

Scleroglucan is a nonionic branched homopolysaccharide constituted of b-D-glucan units. The molecules consist of a linear main chain formed from D-glucose units linked via b(1 ,3) bonds and of which one in three is linked to a side D-glucose unit via a b(1 ,6) bond.

A more complete description of scleroglucans and of their preparation may be found in US 3 301 848.

Scleroglucan is sold, for example, under the name Amigel® by the company Alban Muller, or under the name Actigum™ CS by the company Cargill.

Gellan gum

Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolyoside based on oligoside units composed of 4 saccharides (tetra-oside). D-Glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in 2:1 :1 proportions are present in gellan gum in the form of monomer elements.

It is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA® by the company CP Kelco.

Polysaccharides isolated from algae

Galactans

The polysaccharide according to the invention may be a galactan chosen especially from agar and carrageenans.

Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae families. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by a(1 ,3) and b(1 ,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the a-D- galactopyranosyl residues may be in 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of sulfate-ester groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans, which bear one sulfate-ester group, iota-carrageenans, which bear two sulfate-ester groups, and lambda-carrageenans, which bear three sulfate-ester groups.

Carrageenans are composed essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and/or calcium salts and of polysaccharide sulfate esters.

Carrageenans are sold especially by the company SEPPIC under the name Solagum^®, by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel^®, Carralact^® and Carrasol^®, by the company Cargill under the names Satiagel™ and Satiagum™, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names Genulacta^®, Genugel^® and Genuvisco^®.

Galactans of agar type are galactose polysaccharides contained in the cell wall of some of these species of red algae (rhodophyceae). They are formed from a polymer group whose base backbone is a b(1 ,3) D-galactopyranose and a(1 ,4) L 3- 6 anhydrogalactose chain, these units repeating regularly and alternately. The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of solvated methyl or carboxyethyl groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in variable percentage, depending on the species of algae and the harvest season.

Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of high molecular mass, between 40 000 and 300 000 g.mol ¹. It is obtained by manufacturing algal extraction liquors, generally by autoclaving, and by treating these liquors which comprise about 2% of agar-agar, so as to extract the latter.

Agar is produced, for example, by the group B&V Agar Producers, under the names Gold Agar,® Agarite® and Grand Agar® by the company Flispanagar, and under the names Agar-Agar®, QSA® (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar® by the company Setexam.

Furcellaran

Furcellaran is obtained commercially from red algae Furcellaria fasztigiata. Furcellaran is produced, for example, by the company Est-Agar.

Alginate-based compound

For the purposes of the invention, the term "alginate-based compound" means alginic acid, alginic acid derivatives and salts of alginic acid (alginates) or of said derivatives. Preferably, the alginate-based compound is water-soluble.

Alginic acid, a natural substance resulting from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of 2 uronic acids linked by 1 ,4-glycosidic bonds: b-D- mannuronic acid (M) and a-L-glucuronic acid (G).

Alginic acid is capable of forming water-soluble salts (alginates) with alkali metals such as sodium, potassium or lithium, substituted cations of lower amines and of ammonium such as methylamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine. These alginates are water-soluble in aqueous medium at a pH equal to 4, but dissociate into alginic acid at a pH below 4.

This (these) alginate-based compound(s) are capable of crosslinking in the presence of at least one crosslinking agent, by formation of ionic bonds between said alginate-based compound(s) and said crosslinking agent(s). The formation of multiple crosslinks between several molecules of said alginate-based compound(s) leads to the formation of a water-insoluble gel.

Use is preferably made of alginate-based compounds that have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10 000 to 1 000 000, preferably from 15 000 to 500 000 and better still from 20 000 to 250 000.

According to a preferred embodiment, the alginate-based compound is alginic acid and/or a salt thereof.

Advantageously, the alginate-based compound is an alginate salt, and preferably sodium alginate.

The alginate-based compound may be chemically modified, especially with urea or urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfatation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications.

The derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

The alginate-based compounds that are suitable for use in the invention may be represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Kelcosol®, Satialgine™, Cecalgum™ or Algogel™ by the company Cargill Products, under the name Protanal™ by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name Grindsted^® Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name Kimica Algin® by the company Kimica, and under the names Manucol^® and Manugel^® by the company ISP. Polysaccharides of higher plants

This category of polysaccharides may be divided into homogeneous polysaccharides (only one saccharide species) and heterogeneous polysaccharides composed of several types of saccharides. a) Homogeneous polysaccharides and derivatives thereof

The polysaccharide according to the invention may be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructosans.

Cellulose and derivatives

The polysaccharide according to the invention may also be a cellulose or a derivative thereof, especially cellulose ethers or esters (e.g.: methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose).

The invention may also contain a cellulose-based associative polymer. According to the invention, the term "cellulose-based compound" means any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure linear sequences of anhydroglucopyranose residues (AGUs) linked together via b(1 ,4) glycoside bonds. The repeating unit is the cellobiose dimer. The AGUs are in chair conformation and bear 3 hydroxyl functions: 2 secondary alcohols (in position 2 and 3) and a primary alcohol (in position 6). The polymers thus formed combine together via intermolecular bonds of hydrogen bond type, thus giving the cellulose a fibrillar structure (about 1500 molecules per fibre).

The degree of polymerization differs enormously depending on the origin of the cellulose; its value may range from a few hundred to several tens of thousands.

Cellulose has the following chemical structure:

The hydroxyl groups of cellulose may react partially or totally with various chemical reagents to give cellulose derivatives having intrinsic properties. The cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Among these derivatives, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl celluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; and mixed hydroxyalkylalkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and salts thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and sodium salts thereof.

Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of crosslinked or non- crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses.

The quaternizing agent may in particular be glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine. Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is hydroxyethylcellulosehydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

- quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

- quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B® (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

Among the cellulose derivatives, mention may also be made of:

- celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, especially of C8-C22, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS® (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, and - celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500® (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the company Amerchol.

Among the cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

The cellulose-based compounds of the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses.

The celluloses and derivatives are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Avicel^® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol^® (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Akzo Nobel, under the name MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and EthocelTM^® (ethylcellulose) by the company Dow, and under the names Aqualon^® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel^® (methylcellulose), BlanoseTM (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminal^® (methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), Klucel^® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf^® (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol^® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Flercules Aqualon.

Fructosans

The polysaccharide according to the invention may especially be a fructosan chosen from inulin and derivatives thereof (especially dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulins).

Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of an hydrofructose units optionally combined with several saccharide residues other than fructose. Fructans may be linear or branched. Fructans may be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or alternatively products of which the chain length has been modified (increased or decreased) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis, in particular enzymatic. Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60.

Three groups of fructans are distinguished. The first group corresponds to products of which the fructose units are for the most part linked via b(2,1 ) bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulins.

The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses, but the fructose units are essentially linked via b(2,6) bonds. These products are levans. The third group corresponds to mixed fructans, i.e. containing b(2,6) and b(2,1 ) sequences. These are essentially branched fructans, such as graminans.

The preferred fructans in the compositions according to the invention are inulins. Inulin may be obtained, for example, from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichoke, preferably from chicory.

In particular, the polysaccharide, especially the inulin, has a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one fructose unit.

The inulin used for this invention is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name BeneoTM inulin® by the company Orafti, and under the name Frutafit^® by the company Sensus. b) Heterogeneous polysaccharides and derivatives thereof

The polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be gums, for instance cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, tara gum, acacia gum or gum arabic.

Gum arabic

Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide which is in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The monomer elements of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D- glucuronic acid.

Galactomannans (guar, locust bean, fenugreek, tara gum) and derivatives (guar phosphate, hydroxypropyl guar, etc.)

Galactomannans are nonionic polyosides extracted from the endosperm of leguminous seeds, of which they constitute the storage carbohydrate.

Galactomannans are macromolecules constituted of a main chain of b(1 ,4)-linked D-mannopyranose units, bearing side branches constituted of a single D- galactopyranose unit a(1 ,6)-linked to the main chain. The various galactomannans differ, firstly, by the proportion of a-D-galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and secondly by significant differences in terms of distribution of galactose units along the mannose chain.

The mannose/galactose (M/G) ratio is about 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum and 4 for locust bean gum.

Galactomannans have the following chemical structure:

m * I; LOCU bean (turn

M * t tiusr Ruin

·» «· !; Tir,i

Guar

Guar gum is characterized by a mannose:galactose ratio of the order of 2:1 . The galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain.

The guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be nonionic, cationic or anionic. According to the invention, use may be made of chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums.

The unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the names Vidogum GH^®, Vidogum G^® and Vidocrem^® by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar® by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro^® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name Viscogum™ by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol^® guar gum by the company Aqualon.

The hydrolysed nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Meyprodor^® by the company Danisco.

The modified nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are preferably modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, among which mention may be made, as examples, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP 60^®, Jaguar HP 105^® and Jaguar HP 120^® (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Rhodia or under the name N-Hance^® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Aqualon.

The cationic galactomannan gums preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 1 .5 meq./g, more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq./g. The charge density may be determined by the Kjeldahl method. It generally corresponds to a pH of the order of 3 to 9.

In general, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic galactomannan gum " means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups. The preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups.

The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 ^c 10⁶ approximately and preferably between 10³ and 3 x 10⁶ approximately.

The cationic galactomannan gums that may be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising tri(Ci-C₄)alkylammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.

Mention may very particularly be made, among these trialkylammonium groups, of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, i.e. a guar gum modified, for example, with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

These galactomannan gums, in particular guar gums modified with cationic groups, are products already known per se and are, for example, described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307. Such products are moreover sold especially under the trade names Jaguar Excel^®, Jaguar C13 S^®, Jaguar C 15^®, Jaguar C 17^® and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan^® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa, and under the name N-Hance^® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.

The anionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic, sulfenic, phosphoric, phosphonic or pyruvic acid. The anionic group is preferably a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group may also be in the form of an acid salt, especially a sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salt.

The anionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are preferentially carboxymethyl guar derivatives (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).

Locust bean

Locust bean gum is extracted from the seeds of the locust bean tree ( Ceratonia siliqua). The unmodified locust bean gum that may be used in this invention is sold, for example, under the name Viscogum™ by the company Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by the company Unipektin and under the name Grinsted^® LBG by the company Danisco.

The chemically modified locust bean gums that may be used in this invention may be represented, for example, by the cationic locust beans sold under the name Catinal CLB^® (locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by the company Toho.

Tara gum

The tara gum that may be used in the context of this invention is sold, for example, under the name Vidogum SP^® by the company Unipektin.

Glucomannans (koniac gum)

Glucomannan is a polysaccharide of high molecular weight (500 000 < Mglucomannan < 2 000 000) composed of D-mannose and D-glucose units with a branch every 50 or 60 units approximately. It is found in wood, but is also the main constituent of konjac gum. Konjac ( Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant of the Araceae family.

The products that may be used according to the invention are sold, for example, under the names Propol^® and Rheolex^® by the company Shimizu.

LM and HM pectins , and derivatives

Pectins are linear polymers of a-D-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked in positions 1 and 4 with a certain proportion of carboxylic groups esterified with a methanol group. About 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose). L- Rhamnose residues are found in all pectins, incorporated into the main chain in positions 1 ,2.

Uronic acid molecules bear carboxyl functions. This function gives pectins the capacity for exchanging ions, when they are in COO form. Divalent ions (in particular calcium) have the capacity of forming ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules.

In the natural state, a certain proportion of the carboxylic groups are esterified with a methanol group. The natural degree of esterification of a pectin may range between 70% (apple, lemon) and 10% (strawberry) depending on the source used. Using pectins with a high degree of esterification, it is possible to hydrolyse the -COOCH3 groups so as to obtain weakly esterified pectins. Depending on the proportion of methylated or non-methylated monomers, the chain is thus more or less acidic. HM (high-methoxy) pectins are thus defined as having a degree of esterification of greater than 50%, and LM (low-methoxy) pectins are defined as having a degree of esterification of less than 50%. In the case of amidated pectins, the -OCH3 group is substituted with an -NH₂ group.

Pectins are especially sold by the company Cargill under the name Unipectine™, by the company CP-Kelco under the name Genu®, and by Danisco under the name Grinsted Pectin®.

Other polysaccharides

Among the other polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chitin (poly-N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, b(1 ,4)-2- acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose), chitosan and derivatives (chitosan-beta- glycerophosphate, carboxymethylchitin, etc.) such as those sold by the company France-Chitine; glycosaminoglycans (GAG) such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate, and preferably hyaluronic acid; xylans (or arabinoxylans) and derivatives.

Arabinoxylans are polymers of xylose and arabinose, all grouped under the name pentosans.

Xylans are constituted of a main chain of b(1 ,4)-linked D-xylose units on which are found three substituents (Rouau & Thibault, 1987): acid units, a-L-arabinofuranose units, side chains which may contain arabinose, xylose, galactose and glucuronic acid.

According to this variant, the polysaccharide is preferably hyaluronic acid, or a salt thereof such as the sodium salt (sodium hyaluronate).

II. Synthetic polymeric gelling agents

For the purposes of the invention, the term "synthetic" means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor a derivative of a polymer of natural origin.

The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent under consideration according to the invention may or may not be particulate.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "particulate" means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.

As emerges from the text hereinbelow, the polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof, especially as defined below.

II.A. Particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents

They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers. They may especially be crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, which are preferably partially neutralized or neutralized, and which are in particulate form.

According to one embodiment, the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates. Preferably, it has in the dry or non-hydrated state a mean size of less than or equal to 100 pm and preferably less than or equal to 50 pm. The mean size of the particles corresponds to the mass- average diameter (D50) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art.

Thus, preferably, the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles with a mean size (or mean diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles.

As examples of crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, mention may be made of those sold under the names Octacare X100®, X1 10® and RM100® by the company Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300® and Flosorb 500® by the company SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003®, Luquasorb 1010®, Luquasorb 1280® and Luquasorb 1 1 10® by the company BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400® and G430® (INCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing.

Mention may also be made of crosslinked polyacrylate microspheres, for instance those sold under the name Aquakeep® 10 SH NF by the company Sumitomo Seika.

Such gelling agents may be used in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 5% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, especially from 0.5% to 2% by weight and in particular in a proportion of about from 0.8% to 1 .7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

II. B. Non-particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents

This family of gelling agents may be detailed under the following subfamilies:

1 . Associative polymers,

2. Polyacrylamides and crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, and

3. Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers.

II.B.1 Associative polymers

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer^*' means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers in accordance with the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

Associative anionic polymers Among the associative anionic polymers that may be mentioned are those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those of which the hydrophilic unit is formed by an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly by a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and of which the fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

CH₂ = C(R')CH₂ O B_n R (I) in which R’ denotes H or CH3, B denotes an ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared according to an emulsion polymerization process in patent EP 0 216 479.

Among the associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned are maleic anhydride/C3o-C38-a-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the product (maleic anhydride/C30-C38-a-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the company Newphase Technologies.

Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made, according to a preferred embodiment, of copolymers comprising among their monomers an a,b- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an a,b- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an a,b- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a Ci-C₄ alcohol.

Examples of compounds of this type that may be mentioned include Aculyn 22^® sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate (comprising 20 EO units) terpolymer or Aculyn 28^® (methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate (25 EO) terpolymer).

Associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned include anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (Cio-C3o)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type. Examples that may be mentioned include the anionic polymers described and prepared according to patents US 3 915 921 and US 4 509 949.

Associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned include anionic terpolymers. The anionic terpolymer used according to the invention is a linear or branched and/or crosslinked terpolymer of at least one monomer (1 ) bearing an acid function in free form, which is partially or totally salified with a nonionic monomer (2) chosen from N,N-dimethylacrylamide and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and at least one polyoxyethylenated alkyl acrylate monomer (3) of formula (I) below:

in which R1 represents a hydrogen atom, R represents a linear or branched C₂-C8 alkyl radical and n represents a number ranging from 1 to 10.

The term "branched polymer^*' denotes a non-linear polymer which bears pendent chains so as to obtain, when this polymer is dissolved in water, a high degree of entanglement leading to very high viscosities, at a low speed gradient.

The term "crosslinked polymer^*' denotes a non-linear polymer which is in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water, leading to the production of a chemical gel.

The acid function of the monomer (1 ) is especially a sulfonic acid or phosphonic acid function, said functions being in free or partially or totally salified form.

The monomer (1 ) may be chosen from styrenesulfonic acid, ethylsulfonic acid and 2-methyl-2-[(1 -oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1 -propanesulfonic acid (also known as acryloyldimethyl taurate), in free or partially or totally salified form. It is present in the anionic terpolymer preferably in molar proportions of between 5 mol% and 95 mol% and more particularly between 10 mol% and 90 mol%. The monomer (1 ) will more particularly be 2-methyl-2-[(1 -oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1 -propanesulfonic acid in free or partially or totally salified form.

The acid function in partially or totally salified form will preferably be an alkali metal salt such as a sodium or potassium salt, an ammonium salt, an amino alcohol salt such as a monoethanolamine salt, or else an amino acid salt such as a lysine salt.

The monomer (2) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar proportions of between 4.9 mol% and 90 mol%, more particularly between 9.5 mol% and 85 mol% and even more particularly between 19.5 mol% and 75 mol%.

In formula (I), examples of linear Cs-Ci6 alkyl radicals that may be mentioned include octyl, decyl, undecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl and hexadecyl.

In formula (I), examples of branched Cs-Ci6 alkyl radicals that may be mentioned include 2-ethylhexyl, 2-propylheptyl, 2-butyloctyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 4- methylpentyl, 5-methylhexyl, 6-methylheptyl, 15-methylpentadecyl, 16- methylheptadecyl and 2-hexyloctyl. According to a particular form of the invention, in formula (I), R denotes a C₁₂-C₁₆ alkyl radical.

According to a particular form of the invention, in formula (I), n ranges from 3 to 5.

Tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate will more particularly be used as monomer of formula (I).

The monomer (3) of formula (I) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar proportions ranging from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.5 mol% to 5 mol%.

According to a particular mode of the invention, the anionic terpolymer is crosslinked and/or branched with a diethylenic or polyethylenic compound in the proportion expressed relative to the total amount of monomers used, from 0.005 mol% to 1 mol%, preferably from 0.01 mol% to 0.5 mol% and more particularly from 0.01 mol% to 0.25 mol%.

The crosslinking agent and/or branching agent is preferably chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diallyloxyacetic acid or a salt thereof, such as sodium diallyloxyacetate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallylurea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate and methylenebis(acrylamide), or mixtures thereof.

The anionic terpolymer may contain additives such as complexing agents, transfer agents or chain-limiting agents.

Use will be made more particularly of an anionic terpolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1 -oxo- 2-propenyl)amino]-1 -propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of ammonium salt, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, of INCI name Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, such as the product sold under the trade name Sepimax Zen^® by the company SEPPIC.

Cationic associative polymers

Cationic associative polymers that may be mentioned include polyacrylates bearing amine side groups.

The polyacrylates bearing quaternized or non-quaternized amine side groups contain, for example, hydrophobic groups of the type such as Steareth-20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol).

Examples of polyacrylates bearing amine side chains that may be mentioned are the polymers 8781 -121 B or 9492-103 from the company National Starch.

Nonionic associative polymers The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:

- copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers;

- copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain;

- copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer;

- associative polyurethanes.

Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature (the polyurethanes may then be referred to as polyether polyurethanes), and hydrophobic blocks that may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from C6 to C30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

Associative polyurethanes may be block polymers in triblock or multiblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example: multiblock copolymer). These polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. In general, associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.

According to one preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of polyurethane type is used as gelling agent.

As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate^® FX 1 100 (Steareth-100/PEG 136/HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) copolymer), Rheolate^® 205 containing a urea function, sold by the company Elementis, or else Rheolate^® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol^® RM 184 or Acrysol^® RM 2020.

Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos^® T210 containing a C12-C_M alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos^® T212 containing a C16-18 alkyl chain (PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate), from Akzo.

The product DW 1206B^® from Rohm & Haas containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.

Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate^® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Elementis. The products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas may also be used.

The associative polyurethanes that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen, Colloid Polym. Sci., 271 , 380-389 (1993).

Even more particularly, according to the invention, use may also be made of an associative polyurethane that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyurethane polyethers are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn^® 46 and Aculyn^® 44. Aculyn^® 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81 %), and Aculyn^® 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).

Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include SER AD FX1010®, SER AD FX1035® and SER AD 107® from the company Elementis, and Rheolate^® 255, Rheolate^® 278 and Rheolate^® 244 sold by the company Elementis. Use may also be made of the products Aculyn^® 44, Aculyn^® 46, DW 1206F® and DW 1206J®, and also Acrysol^® RM 184 from the company Rohm & Haas, or alternatively Borchigel LW 44® from the company Borchers, and mixtures thereof.

Amphoteric associative polymers

Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or unbranched amphoteric polymers, which may be obtained by copolymerization:

1 ) of at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb):

in which R₄ and R₅, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

R6, R₇ and Re, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom;

n is an integer from 2 to 5;

A- is an anion derived from an organic or mineral acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;

2) of at least one monomer of formula (V):

R - C = CR₁₀-CO-Z₁ (V)

9 H

in which Rg and R₁₀, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

Zi represents a group OH or a group NHC(CH3)₂CH₂S03H;

3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI):

in which Rg and R₁₀, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atom and Rn denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

4) optionally at least one crosslinking or branching agent; at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) including at least one fatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and said compounds of the monomers of formulae (IVa), (IVb), (V) and (VI) possibly being quaternized, for example with a Ci-C₄ alkyl halide or a Ci-C₄ dialkyl sulfate.

The monomers of formulae (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group constituted of:

- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate,

- diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl acrylate,

- dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl acrylate,

- dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide,

which are optionally quaternized, for example with a Ci-C₄ alkyl halide or a Ci-C₄ dialkyl sulfate.

More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and 2-methacrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by C₁₂-C₂₂ and more particularly C₁₆-C₁₈ alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen from N,N'- methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, n- methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylates, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1 ,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose.

The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as Ci-C₄ alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. The ratio of the number of cationic charges/anionic charges in these amphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1.

The weight-average molecular weights of the associative amphoteric polymers represent a weight-average molecular mass of greater than 500, preferably ranging from 10 000 to 10 000 000 and even more preferentially from 100 000 to 8 000 000.

Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention contain from 1 mol% to 99 mol%, more preferentially from 20 mol% to 95 mol% and even more preferentially from 25 mol% to 75 mol% of compound(s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1 mol% to 80 mol%, more preferentially from 5 mol% to 80 mol% and even more preferentially from 25 mol% to 75 mol% of compound(s) of formula (V). The content of compound(s) of formula (VI) is preferably from 0.1 mol% to 70 mol%, more preferentially from 1 mol% to 50 mol% and even more preferentially from 1 mol% to 10 mol%. The crosslinking or branching agent, when it is present, is preferably from 0.0001 mol% to 1 mol% and more preferentially from 0.0001 mol% to 0.1 mol%.

Preferably, the mole ratio between the compound(s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound(s) of formula (V) ranges from 20:80 to 95:5 and more preferentially from 25:75 to 75:25.

The associative amphoteric polymers according to the invention are described, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012.

The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/stearyl methacrylate copolymers.

According to a preferred embodiment, the associative polymer is chosen from nonionic associative polymers and more particularly from associative polyurethanes, such as Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100® by Elementis.

Such an associative polymer is advantageously used in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 8% by weight of solids and preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

II.B.2 Polyacrylamides and 2-acrylamido-2-methylDroDanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers The polymers used that are suitable as aqueous gelling agent for the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS^®) monomer, in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base other than aqueous ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

They are preferably totally or almost totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.

These AMPS^® polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non- crosslinked.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also the allylic esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

The AMPS^® polymers that are suitable for use in the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are:

- either "homopolymers" comprising only AMPS® monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above;

- or copolymers obtained from AMPS^® and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "fatty chain " means any hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 7 carbon atoms.

The term " water-soluble or water-dispersible " means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1 %, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution with a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably of at least 70%.

The "homopolymers" according to the invention are preferably crossl inked and neutralized, and they may be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:

(a) the monomer such as AMPS in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert-butanol or of water and tert-butanol;

(b) the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NH3, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%;

(c) the crosslinking monomer(s) are added to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b);

(d) a standard free-radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free- radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150°C; the polymer precipitating in the tert-butanol-based solution or dispersion.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS^® copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.

The water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic.

Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds, and salts thereof:

- (meth)acrylic acid,

- styrenesulfonic acid,

- vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,

- vinylphosphonic acid,

- maleic acid,

- itaconic acid,

- croton ic acid,

- water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below:

in which:

- R₁ is chosen from H, -CH3, -C₂H₅ and -C3H₇;

- Xi is chosen from:

- alkyl oxides of type -OR2 where R2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic (-SO3 ) and/or sulfate (-S0₄ ) and/or phosphate (-P0₄H₂-) group.

Among the nonionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include: - (meth)acrylamide,

- N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,

- N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylfomnamide,

- maleic anhydride,

- vinylamine,

- N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,

- vinyl alcohol of formula CH₂=CHOH,

- the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below:

t- C— CR,

i Io <^B>

X 2

in which:

- R3 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7;

- X₂ is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR₄ where R₄ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted with a halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) atom; a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.

Mention is made, for example, of glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and (meth)acrylates of ethylene glycol, of diethylene glycol or of polyalkylene glycol.

Among the hydrophobic comonomers without a fatty chain, mention may be made, for example, of:

- styrene and derivatives thereof, such as 4-butylstyrene, a-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;

- vinyl acetate of formula CH₂=CH-OCOCH3;

- vinyl ethers of formula CH₂=CHOR in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons;

- acrylonitrile;

- caprolactone;

- vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;

- silicone derivatives, which, after polymerization, result in silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides;

- hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C) below:

in which:

- R₄ is chosen from H, -CH3, -C₂H₅ and -C3H₇;

- X3 is chosen from:

- alkyl oxides of the type -OR₅ where R₅ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Mention is made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate. The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS^® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 to 8 000 000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 to 7 000 000 g/mol.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® homopolymers suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crossl inked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800® (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymers (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS^® by the company Clariant.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

crosslinked acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, such as that used in the commercial product Sepigel 305® (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/Ci3-Ci₄ isoparaffin/laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600® (CTFA name: Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC;

- copolymers of AMPS^® and of vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC^® by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

- copolymers of AMPS^® and of sodium acrylate, for instance the AMPS®/sodium acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG^® by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name Sepinov EM® (CTFA name: Flydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer);

- copolymers of AMPS^® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the AMPS^®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS^® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Flydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60), or such as the product sold under the name Sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10® (INCI name: Flydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer).

As preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of AMPS^® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.

In general, an aqueous phase according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 % to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.7% to 5% by weight of solids of polyacrylamide(s) and/or of crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer(s) and copolymer(s) relative to its total weight. II.B.3 Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers

The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from a,b-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or esters thereof, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) comprising a hydrophobic group.

The term "copolymers" means both copolymers obtained from two types of monomer and those obtained from more than two types of monomer, such as terpolymers obtained from three types of monomer.

Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. The term "hydrophobic group or unit" means a radical with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, these copolymers are chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization:

- of at least one monomer of formula (1 ) below:

in which Ri denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid monomers, and

- of at least one monomer of unsaturated carboxylic acid (Cio-C3o)alkyl ester type corresponding to the monomer of formula (2) below:

in which R2 denotes

e, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), R3 denoting a C10-C30 and preferably C12-C22 alkyl radical.

The unsaturated carboxylic acid (Cio-C3o)alkyl esters are preferably chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, these polymers are crosslinked.

Among the copolymers of this type that will be used more particularly are polymers derived from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: - essentially acrylic acid,

- an ester of formula (2) described above in which F¾ denotes H or Chb, R3 denoting an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and

- a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

Among the copolymers of this type, use will more particularly be made of those consisting of from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C₁₀-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those consisting of from 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 % to 4% by weight of C₁₀-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1 % to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described previously.

Among said abovementioned polymers, the ones that are most particularly preferred according to the present invention are acrylate/Cio-C₃o-alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates/Cio-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR-1®, Pemulen TR-2®, Carbopol 1382®, Carbopol EDT 2020® and Carbopol Ultrez 20® Polymer, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2®.

Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP^® containing 90% solids and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL^® as an inverse emulsion containing about 60% solids, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis.

Mention may also be made of partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates that are in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example the product sold under the name Luvigel^® EM by the company BASF.

The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers.

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "(meth)acrylic" means "acrylic or methacrylic" .

Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 910, 934, 940, 941 , 934 P, 980, 981 , 2984, 5984 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, or by 3V-Sigma under the name Synthalen^® K, Synthalen^® L or Synthalen^® M.

Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may be made in particular of Carbopol® (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen® (CTFA name: Acrylates/C ₁₀-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) sold by the company Lubrizol. The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be present in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 5% by weight of solids relative to the weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.3% to 1 % by weight and preferably from 0.4% to 1 % by weight, relative to the weight of the aqueous phase.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers.

According to a preferred variant, the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate or, preferably, a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.

According to another preferred variant, the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is at least one ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymer.

III. Other hydrophilic gelling agents

These gelling agents are more particularly chosen from mixed silicates and fumed silicas.

III.A. Mixed silicate

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mixed silicate" means all silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing several (two or more) types of cations chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline-earth metals (for example Be, Mg, Ca), transition metals and aluminium.

According to a particular embodiment, the mixed silicate(s) are in the form of solid particles containing at least 10% by weight of at least one silicate relative to the total weight of the particles. In the rest of the present description, these particles are referred to as "silicate particles".

Preferably, the silicate particles contain less than 1 % by weight of aluminium relative to the total weight of the particles. Even more preferably, they contain from 0 to 1 % by weight of aluminium relative to the total weight of the particles.

Preferably, the silicate particles contain at least 50% by weight of silicate and better still at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the particles. Particles containing at least 90% by weight of silicates, relative to the total weight of the particles, are particularly preferred.

In particular, it is an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, aluminium or iron silicate or mixture of silicates.

Preferably, it is sodium, magnesium and/or lithium silicate. To ensure good cosmetic properties, these silicates are generally in a finely divided form, and in particular in the form of particles with a mean size ranging from 2 nm to 1 pm (from 2 to 1000 nm), preferably from 5 to 600 nm and even more preferentially from 20 to 250 nm.

The silicate particles may have any form, for example the form of spheres, flakes, needles, platelets, discs, leaflets, or totally random forms. Preferably, the silicate particles are in the form of discs or leaflets.

Thus, the term "mean size " of the particles means the numerical mean size of the largest dimension (length) that it is possible to measure between two diametrically opposite points on an individual particle. The size may be determined, for example, by transmission electron microscopy or by measuring the specific surface area via the BET method or with a laser particle size analyser.

When the particles are in the form of discs or leaflets, they generally have a thickness ranging from about 0.5 to 5 nm.

The silicate particles may be constituted of an alloy with metal or metalloid oxides, obtained, for example, by thermal melting of the various constituents thereof. When the particles also comprise such a metal or metalloid oxide, this oxide is preferably chosen from silicon, boron or aluminium oxide.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicates are phyllosilicates, namely silicates having a structure in which the Si0₄ tetrahedra are organized in leaflets between which the metal cations are enclosed.

The mixed silicates that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen, for example, from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite and saponites. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixed silicates used are more particularly chosen from hectorites and bentonites, and better still from laponites.

A family of silicates that is particularly preferred in the compositions of the present invention is thus the laponite family. Laponites are sodium magnesium silicates also possibly containing lithium, which have a layer structure similar to that of montmorillonites. Laponite is the synthetic form of the natural mineral known as hectorite. The synthetic origin of this family of silicates is of considerable advantage over the natural form, since it allows good control of the composition of the product. In addition, laponites have the advantage of having a particle size that is much smaller than that of natural hectorite and bentonite.

Laponites that may especially be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: Laponite^® XLS, Laponite^® XLG, Laponite^® RD, Laponite^® RDS, Laponite^® XL21 (these products are sodium magnesium silicates and sodium lithium magnesium silicates) by the company Rockwood Additives Limited. Such gelling agents may be used in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 8% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, especially from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

III.B. Hydrophilic fumed silica

The fumed silicas according to the present invention are hydrophilic.

The hydrophilic fumed silicas are obtained by pyrolysis of silicon tetrachloride (SiCI₄) in a continuous flame at 1000°C in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. Among the fumed silicas of hydrophilic nature that may be used according to the present invention, mention may especially be made of those sold by the company Degussa or Evonik Degussa under the trade names Aerosil^® 90, 130, 150, 200, 300 and 380 or alternatively by the company Cabot under the name Carbosil H5®.

Such gelling agents may be used in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 10% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, especially from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

LIPOPHILIC GELLING AGENT

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic gelling agent" means a compound that is capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The gelling agent is lipophilic and is thus present in the oily phase of the composition.

The gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible.

As emerges from the text hereinbelow, the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi- crystalline polymers, dextrin esters and polymers containing hydrogen bonding, and mixtures thereof.

I. Particulate gelling agents

The particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.

As representative lipophilic particulate gelling agents that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, and silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels.

The waxes The term "wax" under consideration in the context of the present invention generally means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

The waxes, for the purposes of the invention, may be those generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They may especially be polar or apolar, hydrocarbon-based, silicone and/or fluoro waxes, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin. a) Apolar waxes

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C as defined below, 5_a, is equal to 0 (J/cm³)^½.

The definition of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- 5D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- 5_P characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - 5_h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.);

- 5_a is determined by the equation: 5_a = (d_r ² + 5h²)^½.

The parameters d_r, 6_h, dϋ and d₃ are expressed in (J/cm³)^½.

The solubility parameters are calculated with the HSPiP v4.1 software.

The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon-based waxes constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

The apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

An ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P®.

As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445^® sold by the company Sonneborn, and Microwax HW^® and Base Wax 30540^® sold by the company Paramelt, and Cerewax^® No. 3 sold by the company Baerlocher.

As microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, mention may be made especially of polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200^®, 220^®, 220L^® and 250S^® by the company Micro Powders.

Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene® and Performalene 400 Polyethylene® sold by New Phase Technologies, and Asensa® SC 211 sold by the company Honeywell. b) Polar wax

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 5a, is other than 0 (J/cm³)^½.

In particular, the term " olar wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon-based, fluoro or silicone waxes.

Preferentially, the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes.

The term " hydrocarbon-based wax" means a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

The term " ester wax" means, according to the invention, a wax comprising at least one ester function. The term " alcohol wax” means, according to the invention, a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

Use may especially be made, as ester wax, of:

- ester waxes, such as those chosen from:

i) waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose melting point ranges from 25 to 120°C;

ii) bis(1 ,1 ,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S^® by Heterene;

iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula

R³-(-OCO-R⁴-COO-R⁵), in which R³ and R⁵ are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C₄-C₃o alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R⁴ represents a linear or branched C₄-C3o aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not comprise one or more unsaturations and which is preferably linear and unsaturated;

iv) mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for instance hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol;

v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax or berry wax.

According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. The term "alcohol wax” means, according to the invention, a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. Examples of alcohol waxes that may be mentioned include the C30-C50 alcohol wax Performacol^® 550 Alcohol sold by the company New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably of low melting point.

The term " silicone wax" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and especially comprising Si-0 groups.

Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800®, 9801® or 9810® (Goldschmidt), KF910® and KF7002® (Shin-Etsu), or 176-1 1 18-3® and 176- 1 1481® (General Electric).

The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones, and also (C2o-C6o)alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C3o-C₄s)alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642® by the company GE-Bayer Silicones or C3o-C₄5 alkyl dimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005® C30 Resin Wax® sold by the company Dow Corning.

In the context of the present invention, particularly advantageous waxes that may be mentioned include polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, candelilla wax and silicone waxes, in particular candelilla wax.

They may be present in the oily phase in a proportion of from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase, for example from 5% to 20% of the oily phase and more particularly from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase.

Modified clays

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic clay.

The clays may be natural or synthetic, and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

They are preferably chosen from hectorites.

Hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V^® by the company Elementis or bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V^® (87% isododecane/10% disteardimonium hectorite/3% propylene carbonate) by the company Elementis, are preferably used as lipophilic clays.

Lipophilic clay may especially be present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10% and more particularly from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

Silicas

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, a fumed silica or silica aerogel particles. a) Fumed silica

Fumed silica which has undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment is most particularly suitable for use in the invention. Indeed, it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is especially possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups may be:

- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812^® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS- 530^® by the company Cabot;

- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as“Silica Dimethyl Silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972^® and Aerosil R974^® by the company Degussa, and Cab- O-Sil TS-610^® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720^® by the company Cabot.

The fumed silicas may be present in a composition according to the present invention in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, more particularly from 1 % to 15% by weight and even more particularly from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase. b) Flvdrophobic silica aerogels

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, at least silica aerogel particles.

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO₂. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m²/g and better still from 600 to 800 m²/g, and a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, better still from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm. The specific surface area per unit mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to international standard ISO 5794/1 (annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tapped density ranging from 0.02 g/cm³ to 0.10 g/cm³, preferably from 0.03 g/cm³ to 0.08 g/cm³ and in particular ranging from 0.05 g/cm³ to 0.08 g/cm³.

In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the tapped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:

40 g of powder are poured into a graduated measuring cylinder and then the measuring cylinder is placed on a Stav 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 packing actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%) and then the final volume Vf of packed powder is measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tapped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this case 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and m in g).

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m²/cm³, preferably from 10 to 50 m²/cm³ and better still from 15 to 40 m²/cm³.

The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relationship:

Sv = S_M x p; where p is the tapped density, expressed in g/cm³, and S_M is the specific surface area per unit of mass, expressed in m²/g, as defined above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g. The absorption capacity, measured at the wet point and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the "wet point" method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measurement of the wet point, described below:

An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until conglomerates of oil and powder have formed. From this point, the oil is added at the rate of one drop at a time and the mixture is subsequently triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread over the glass plate without cracks or the formation of lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

The term "hydrophobic silica " is understood to mean any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes; siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane; or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OFI groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to the document US 7 470 725.

Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably with the INCI name Silica silylate.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, an example that may be mentioned is the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260® or VM-2270® (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201®, Aerogel OGD 201® and Aerogel TLD 203®, Enova^® Aerogel MT 1 100® and Enova Aerogel MT 1200®.

Use will preferably be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270^® (INCI name: Silica Silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

Such an aerogel advantageously makes it possible to promote the resistance of the deposit to sebum and to sweat.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in the composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.1 % to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 1 .5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

II. Organopolysiloxane elastomer

The organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be used as lipophilic gelling agent has the advantage of giving the composition according to the invention good application properties. It affords a very soft and mattifying feel after application, which is advantageous in particular for application to the skin. It may also allow efficient filling of the hollows present on keratin materials.

The term "organopolysiloxane elastomer^*' or "silicone elastomer^*' means a supple, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and especially with the consistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has limited stretchability and contractibility. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.

It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, in application EP-A-295 886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane bearing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, especially a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be readily miscible with compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

Compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C₂-C₄); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

Besides the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy- terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy- terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl(3,3,3- trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers.

In particular, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane may be obtained via reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and of trimethylsiloxy- terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1.5/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene units) or a polyglyceryl unit. Thus, according to a specific form of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and of polyglyceryl unit.

In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name) or Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name).

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be conveyed in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles. Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent application JP-A-61 -194 009.

The silicone elastomer is generally provided in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone) or cyclic silicone oil (e.g.: cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.

Non-emulsifying elastomers that may more particularly be used include those sold under the names KSG-6®, KSG-15®, KSG-16®, KSG-18®, KSG-41®, KSG-42®, KSG-43® and KSG-44® by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040® and DC9041® by the company Dow Corning and SFE 839® by the company General Electric.

According to a particular mode, use is made of a gel of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 cSt at 25°C, optionally modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

Mention may be made in particular of the compounds having the following INCI names:

- dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as USG-105® and USG-107A® from the company Shin-Etsu; DC9506® and DC9701® from the company Dow Corning;

- dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as KSG-6® and KSG-16® from the company Shin-Etsu;

- dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) cyclopentasiloxane, such as KSG-15®;

- cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9040®, DC9045® and DC5930® from the company Dow Corning;

- dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9041® from the company Dow Corning;

- dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240® Silicone Elastomer Blend from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt));

- C_4-24 alkyl dimethicone/divinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA® from the company Alzo.

As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil that may advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may especially be made of the following references:

- dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9041®, Dow Corning EL-9240^® Silicone Elastomer Blend from the company Dow Corning. The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may also be used in powder form: mention may be made especially of the powders sold under the names Dow Corning 9505 Powder® and Dow Corning 9506 Powder® by the company Dow Corning, these powders having the INCI name: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

The organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793. Such elastomeric powders are sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by the company Shin-Etsu, and have the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer.

As examples of organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin that may advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of the reference KSP-100® from the company Shin-Etsu.

As preferred lipophilic gelling agent of organopolysiloxane elastomer type, mention may be made especially of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), DimethiconeA/inyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name).

The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 35% by weight of solids, especially from 1 % to 20% and more particularly from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

III. Semicrvstalline polymers

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one semi- crystalline polymer. Preferably, the semicrystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "semicrystalline polymer^*' means polymers comprising a crystallizable portion and an amorphous portion and having a first-order reversible change of phase temperature, in particular of melting point (solid-liquid transition). The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendent chain) or a block in the backbone.

When the crystallizable portion of the semicrystalline polymer is a block of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block has a chemical nature different than that of the amorphous blocks; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain that is pendent on the backbone, the semicrystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150°C.

The melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30°C and less than 100°C. More preferably, the melting point of the semi- crystalline polymer is greater than or equal to 30°C and less than 70°C.

The semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention are solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10°C per minute (the melting point under consideration is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak in the thermogram).

The semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point that is higher than the temperature of the keratin support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin, the lips or the eyebrows.

According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially to at least 1 % by weight, at a temperature that is higher than their melting point. Besides the crystallizable chains or blocks, the blocks of the polymers are amorphous.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "crystallizable chain or block" means a chain or block which, if it were alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting point. For the purposes of the invention, a chain is a group of atoms, which are pendent or lateral relative to the polymer backbone. A block is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.

Preferably, the polymer backbone of the semicrystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting point.

Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. The semicrystalline polymers bearing crystallizable side chains are homopolymers or copolymers. The semi-crystalline polymers of the invention bearing crystallizable blocks are block or multiblock copolymers. They may be obtained by polymerizing a monomer bearing reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers bearing crystallizable side chains, these side chains are advantageously in random or statistical form.

Preferably, the semicrystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin. According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from: - homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain(s),

- polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block,

- polycondensates of aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic/aromatic polyester type,

- copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis, and

- acrylate/silicone copolymers.

The semi-crystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from:

- block copolymers of polyolefins of controlled crystallization, whose monomers are described in EP 0 951 897,

- polycondensates, in particular of aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic/aromatic polyester type,

- copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis,

- homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or copolymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in document US 5 156 911 , such as the (C₁₀- C₃o)alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to the Intelimer^® products from the company Landec described in the brochure Intelimer^® Polymers, Landec IP22® (Rev. 4-97), for example the product Intelimer^® IPA 13-1® from the company Landec, which is a polystearyl acrylate with a molecular weight of about 145 000 and a melting point of 49°C,

- homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular containing fluoro group(s), as described in document WO 01/19333,

- acrylate/silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl acrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may be made in particular of the copolymers sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the names KP-561® (CTFA name: acrylates/dimethicone), KP-541® (CTFA name: acrylates/d imethicone and isopropyl alcohol), KP-545® (CTFA name: acrylates/dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane),

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amount of semi-crystalline polymer(s), preferably chosen from semi- crystalline polymers bearing crystallizable side chains, represents from 0.1 % to 30% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the oily phase, for example from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% or even from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

IV. Dextrin esters

The composition according to the invention may comprise as lipophilic gelling agent at least one dextrin ester. In particular, the composition preferably comprises at least one preferably C12 to C24 and in particular Ci₄ to C18 fatty acid ester of dextrin, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of a C12-C18 and in particular Ci₄-Ci8 fatty acid.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and/or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, especially such as the product sold under the name Rheopearl MKL-2® by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This product may be chosen, for example, from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL^®, Rheopearl KL^® and Rheopearl^® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

In a particularly preferred manner, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% and preferably from 7.5% to 17% by weight of dextrin ester(s) relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of dextrin palmitate relative to the total weight of the oily phase. The dextrin palmitate may especially be the product sold under the names Rheopearl TL^®, Rheopearl KL^® or Rheopearl^® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

V. Polymers containing hydrogen bonding

As representatives of polymers containing hydrogen bonding that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon-based polyamides and silicone polyamides.

Polyamides

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon-based polyamides and silicone polyamides, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the total content of polyamide(s) ranges from 0.1 % to 30% by weight expressed as solids, preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “polyamide" means a compound containing at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and better still 10 amide repeating units. a) Hydrocarbon-based polyamide

The term“hydrocarbon-based polyamide’’ means a polyamide formed essentially of, indeed even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not comprising any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

For the purposes of the invention, the term“functionalized chain" means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reagents chosen especially from hydroxyl, ether, ester, oxyalkylene and polyoxyalkylene groups.

Advantageously, this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000 g/mol (especially ranging from 1000 to 100 000 g/mol), in particular less than 50 000 g/mol (especially ranging from 1000 to 50 000 g/mol) and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30 000 g/mol, preferably from 2000 to 20 000 g/mol and better still from 2000 to 10 000 g/mol.

This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25°C.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I):

in which X represents a group -N(RI )2 or a group -ORi in which Ri is a linear or branched Cs to C22 alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R2 is a C28-C₄2 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5; and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular mode, the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (la):

in which X represents a group -N(RI )2 in which R₁ is a linear or branched Cs to C₂₂ alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R2 is a C28-C₄2 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5;

and mixtures thereof.

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, additionally in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (lb):

in which X represents a group -OR1 in which R1 is a linear or branched Cs to C22 and preferably C16 to C22 alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R2 is a C28-C₄2 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5, such as the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, the INCI name of which is Ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer.

b) Silicone polyamide

The silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The silicone polyamides may preferentially be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):

or

ffv>

in which:

R⁴, R⁵, R⁶ and R⁷, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from:

- saturated or unsaturated, Ci to C₄o linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon-based groups, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially or totally substituted with fluorine atoms,

- C6 to C₁₀ aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more Ci to C₄ alkyl groups,

- polyorganosiloxane chains possibly containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms,

- the groups X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ci to C30 alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms,

- Y is a saturated or unsaturated Ci to C₅₀ linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene divalent group, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or may bear as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C3to Cs cycloalkyl, Ci to C₄o alkyl, Cs to C₁₀ aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with one to three Ci to C3 alkyl, Ci to Cs hydroxyalkyl and Ci to Ce aminoalkyl groups, or Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:

in which

- T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C₂₄ trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and

- R⁸ represents a linear or branched C₁-C₅₀ alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups, which may possibly be linked to another chain of the polymer;

- n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200.

According to a particular mode, the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) in which m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150 and is preferably about 100.

More preferably, R⁴, R⁵, R⁶ and R⁷ independently represent a linear or branched C₁ to C₄o alkyl group, preferably a group CH3, C₂H₅, n-Cshl· or an isopropyl group in formula (III).

As an example of silicone polymers that may be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of document US 5 981 680.

Mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company Dow Corning under the names DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15), the INCI name of which is Nylon-61 1/dimethicone copolymer, i.e. Nylon-61 1/dimethicone copolymers. The silicone polymers and/or copolymers advantageously have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45°C to 190°C. Preferably, they have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130°C and better still from 80 to 105°C.

Preferably, the total content of polyamide(s) and/or silicone polyamide(s) ranges from 0.5% to 25% by weight of solids, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight and preferably from 2% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

Advantageously, the polymer containing hydrogen bonding is chosen from the ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer and Nylon-61 1/dimethicone copolymers. According to an advantageous variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters and polymers containing hydrogen bonding, and mixtures thereof, and in particular at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.

HYDROPHILIC GELLING AGENT/LIPOPHILIC GELLING AGENT SYSTEM

As preferred synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made more particularly of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers, for instance AMPS®, such as the ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymer sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS^® by the company Clariant, and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers and in particular copolymers of AMPS^® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the AMPS^®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS^® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60), or such as the product sold under the name Sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10® (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer).

As preferred lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of organopolysiloxane elastomers preferably chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name) and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name).

According to a preferred mode, as preferred lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made more particularly of gels of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil and/or powders of organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silsesquioxane resin.

Thus, according to a particular mode, use is made of a gel of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 cSt at 25°C, especially the following references:

- dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9041® from the company Dow Corning; and

- dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240^® Silicone Elastomer Blend from the company Dow Corning. As non-limiting illustrations of hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent systems that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of the polymer or copolymer system of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid/organopolysiloxane elastomer(s).

Thus, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise, as hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent systems, a polymer system of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid/organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) or copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate/organopolysiloxane elastomer(s).

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise, as hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent system, a copolymer system of 2-acrylamido- 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate/organopolysiloxane elastomer powder.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

In the present invention, the term“water-soluble solvent” denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols other than the saturated linear C3-C8 dihydroxyalkanes according to the invention, C3-C₄ ketones, C2-C₄ aldehydes, and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 80% by weight and preferably from 40% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Within the meaning of the present invention, a“polyof’ mean is understood to means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OFI functions, in particular at least three -OFI functions and more particularly at least four -OFI functions.

The polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those especially containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.

OILY PHASE

For the purposes of the invention, an oily phase comprises at least one oil.

The term“oil” means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

An oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non- fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one implementation variant, oils of plant origin are preferred.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil with a vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-0 group.

The term“fluoro oil” refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ³ to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

Volatile oils

The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils.

Among the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made especially of branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C₁₆ esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon- based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.

Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 1 1 to 13 carbon atoms, for instance n-dodecane (C₁₂) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and of n- tridecane (C₁₃) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include polyalkylsiloxane linear volatile silicone oils with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 0.5 to 8 centistokes (from 0.5 to 8 mm²/s). The viscosity measurement method used in the invention to characterize the silicone oils according to the invention may be the "kinematic viscosity at 25°C raw product CID-012-01 " or the "Ubbelohde viscosity at 25°C DIN 51562-1 PV04001 ". Mention may be made especially of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Non-volatile oils

The non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatile hydrocarbon- based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, - synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R1 + R2 > 10. The esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid alcohol esters, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or octyl hydroxystearate, alkyl or polyalkyl ricinoleates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate or isotridecyl neopentanoate, or esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate or isotridecyl isononanoate,

- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythrityl tetra hyd roxystea rate/tetra isostea rate ,

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol,

- C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,

- non-phenyl silicone oils, for instance polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl groups, or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain; these groups each comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly caprylyl methicone, such as the commercial product Dow Corning FZ-3196® from the company Dow Corning;

- phenyl silicone oils, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and also mixtures of these various oils.

According to a particular mode, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile silicone oil, preferably at least one linear volatile silicone oil.

According to another particular mode, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, with a branched saturated alkyl chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, in particular 2-octyldodecanol.

According to another particular mode, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one fatty alcohol that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, with a branched saturated alkyl chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, in particular 2-octyldodecanol.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 95% by weight, better still from 5% to 40% by weight and preferably from 7% to 35% by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of said composition. LINEAR DIHYDROXYALKANE COMPOUND

The saturated linear C3-C8 dihydroxyalkane compound(s) in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from propanediol (1 ,3-dihydroxypropane), propylene glycol (1 ,2-dihydroxypropane), pentylene glycol (1 ,2-dihydroxypentane), caprylyl glycol (1 ,2-dihydroxyoctane and 1 ,2-octanediol), and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred form, the composition of the invention comprises at least propanediol (1 ,3-dihydroxypropane) as saturated linear C3-C8 dihydroxyalkane, such as the commercial product Zemea Propanediol® sold by the company DuPont Tate and Lyle Bio Products.

The saturated linear C3-C8 dihydroxyalkane compound(s) in accordance with the invention are present in the compositions of the invention preferably in concentrations ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 0.5% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

SALICYLIC ACID

Salicylic acid corresponds to the following chemical structure:

Salicylic acid in free form is preferably present in the composition of the invention in amounts ranging from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 3% by weight and more particularly from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

PIGMENTS

The term“pigments” means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or deposit. These pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.

The pigments are present in a composition of the invention in a proportion of at least 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 10% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially ranging from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

The term “mineral pigment” means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder or copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta20s, T13O5, T12O3, TiO, Zr02 as a mixture with T1O2, Zr02, Nb20s, Ce02, ZnS.

The size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 pm.

According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 pm.

The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000 particle size analyser from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows an "effective" particle diameter to be determined. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

D[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles have.

According to a particularly preferred mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one mineral pigment chosen from iron oxides and titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof.

As mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.

The term“nacres” should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.

Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres sold by the company Sun Chemical.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.

As illustrations of nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of the gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden- green pink-orange nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

Among the pigments that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those having an optical effect different from a simple conventional colouring effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect such as produced by conventional dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, the term“stabilized” means lacking the effect of variability of the colour with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change.

For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, in particular interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined in order simultaneously to afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention. The particles with a metallic tint that are usable in the invention are in particular chosen from:

- particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative,

- particles comprising a monomaterial or multimaterial organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer with a metallic tint comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and

mixtures of said particles.

Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may for example be made of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

The term“metal derivatives” denotes compounds derived from metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

Illustrations of these particles that may be mentioned include aluminium particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Silberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart.

Mention may also be made of metal powders of copper or of alloy mixtures such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments, for instance aluminium or bronze, such as those sold under the names Rotosafe 700 from the company Eckart, silica-coated aluminium particles sold under the name Visionaire Bright Silver from the company Eckart, and metal alloy particles, for instance the silica-coated bronze (alloy of copper and zinc) powders sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from the company Eckart.

They may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, such as those sold by the company Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass Metashine.

The goniochromatic colouring agent may be chosen, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colouring agents.

Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may be used in the compositions prepared in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: AI/Si0₂/AI/Si0₂/AI, pigments having this structure being sold by the company DuPont de Nemours; Cr/MgF₂/AI/MgF₂/Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name Chromaflair by the company Flex; MoS2/Si02/AI/Si02/MoS2; Fe203/Si02/AI/Si02/Fe203, and

Fe203/Si02/Fe203/Si02/Fe203, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Sicopearl by the company BASF; MoS2/Si02/mica-oxide/Si02/MoS2; Fe203/Si02/mica-oxide/Si02/Fe203; Ti02/Si02/Ti02 and Ti02/Al203/Ti02; Sn0/Ti02/Si02/Ti02/Sn0; Fe203/Si02/Fe203; Sn0/mica/Ti02/Si02/Ti02/mica/Sn0, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Xirona by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the pigments of silica/brown iron oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Indian Summer by the company Merck and the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/mica/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue by the company Merck. Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors pigments from the company Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the various coats, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe203/Si02/AI/Si02/Fe203 structure, the colour changes from greenish gold to reddish grey for S1O2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for S1O2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for S1O2 layers of 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for S1O2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.

As examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, mention may be made of those sold by the company 3M under the name Color Glitter.

Examples of liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used include those sold by the company Chenix and also the product sold under the name Flelicone® FIC by the company Wacker.

Coating of the pigment

The composition according to the invention comprises advantageously at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

Within the meaning of the invention, the“coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to a person skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

The surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

According to one variant, the surface treatment is constituted of a coating of the pigments.

The coating may represent from 0.1 % to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.

The coating may be realized, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

The coating may be realized, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is notably described in the patent US 4,578,266.

The chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited at the surface of the pigments.

Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N- acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

Silicone surface agent

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of silicone nature.

The silicone surface agents may be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

The term“organopolysiloxane compound" means a compound having a structure comprising an alternance of silicone atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals bonded to the silicon atoms.

/^') Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane

Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.

The alkoxy group may be represented by the radical R-O- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

One method for surface-treating pigments with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists in dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent and then in adding the silicone compound. On heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surface agent may be a non- elastomeric organopolysiloxane, especially chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes. According to one particular form, use may be made of triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, such as the commercial product sold under the name KF9908® from Shin-Etsu.

/^'/^') Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

Silanes bearing alkoxy functionality are especially described by Witucki in“A silane primer, chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993’’.

Alkoxysilanes such as the alkyltriethoxysilanes and the alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137 (OSI Specialities) and Prosil 9202 (PCR) may be used for coating the pigments.

The use of alkylpolysiloxanes bearing a reactive end group such as alkoxy, hydroxyl, halogen, amino or imino is described in application JP H07-196946. They are also suitable for treating the pigments.

Hi) Silicone-acrylate polymers

Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in patents US 5 725 882, US 5 209 924, US 4 972 037, US 4 981 903, US 4 981 902 and US 5 468 477 and in patents US 5 219 560 and EP 0 388 582 may be used.

Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers comprising in their structure the unit of formula (I) below:

— (- ?— o-)_a - (— ? si-o-)_b— (— ? Si-O— )_c -

(G₂)„-S— G, G, (G₂)-S-G₄

in which the radicals Gi, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C₁-C₁₀ alkyl radical or alternatively a phenyl radical; the radicals G₂, which may be identical or different, represent a C₁-C₁₀ alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G₄ represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer; m and n are equal to 0 or 1 ; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer that may be between 10 and 350, c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that one of the parameters a and c is other than 0.

Preferably, the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferentially all, of the following characteristics:

- the radicals G₁ denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical;

- n is non-zero, and the radicals G₂ represent a divalent C₁-C3 radical, preferably a propylene radical;

- G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid; - G₄ represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the (Ci-Cio)alkyl (meth)acrylate type, preferably such as isobutyl or methyl (meth)acrylate.

Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain unit of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the polymethyl (meth)acrylate type.

Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain unit of thiopropylene type, polymer units of the polyisobutyl (meth)acrylate type. iv) Silicone resins

The silicone surface agent may be chosen from silicone resins.

The term“resin" means a three-dimensional structure.

The silicone resins may be soluble or swellable in silicone oils. These resins are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.

The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name "MDTQ", the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH3)3SiOi_/2, the silicon atom being bonded to only one oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter D means a difunctional unit (CH3)₂Si0_2/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH3)Si03_/2.

In the units M, D and T defined previously, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted with a group R other than the methyl group, such as a hydrocarbon- based radical (especially alkyl) containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, or alternatively a hydroxyl group.

Finally, the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit Si0_4/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.

Various resins with different properties may be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying as a function of the type of monomers (or units), of the type and number of substituted radicals, of the length of the polymer chain, of the degree of branching and of the size of the side chains.

Examples of these silicone resins that may be mentioned include: siloxysilicates, which may be trimethyl siloxysilicates of formula [(CH3)3XSiX0]_xX(Si0_4/2)y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80;

- polysilsesquioxanes of formula (CH3Si03_/2)x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and at least one of the methyl radicals of which may be substituted with a group R as defined above;

- polymethylsilsesquioxanes, which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted with another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US 5 246 694.

As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold:

- by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK®, such as Belsil PMS MK®: polymer comprising CH3S1O3_/2 repeating units (T units), which may also comprise up to 1 % by weight of (CH3)₂Si0_2/2 units (D units), and having an average molecular weight of about 10 000;

- by the company Shin-Etsu under the references KR-220L®, which are composed of T units of formula CH3Si03_/2 and contain Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A, which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and contain Si-OH end groups, or also under the reference KR-251 , comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and containing Si-OH end groups.

Siloxysilicate resins that may be mentioned include trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins, optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the references SR1000®, E 1 170-002® or SS 4230® by the company General Electric or under the references TMS 803®, Wacker 803® and 804® by the company Wacker Silicone Corporation.

Mention may also be made of trimethyl siloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF-7312J® by the company Shin-Etsu or DC 749® and DC 593® by the company Dow Corning.

As examples of commercial references of pigments treated with a silicone compound, mention may be made of:

- red iron oxide/dimethicone sold under the reference SA-C 338075-10® by the company Miyoshi Kasei; and

Fluoro surface agent

The pigments may be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of fluoro nature.

The fluoro surface agents may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl peril uoropolyether groups. The term“perfluoroalkyl radical·’ means an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.

Perfluoropolyethers are in particular described in patent application EP 0 486 135, and sold under the trade name Fomblin® by the company Montefluos.

Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984. The perfluoroalkyl diethanolamine phosphates sold by Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530® may be used.

Among the linear perfluoroalkanes that may be mentioned are perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, aromatic perfluoro hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and hydrocarbon-based perfluoro organic compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.

Among the perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of the linear alkane series such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), mention may be made of perfluorodecalin sold under the name Flutec PP5 GMP® by the company Rhodia, perfluoro(methyldecalin) and peril uoro(C3-Cs alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane).

Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane, and hydrogenated perfluorophenanthrene derivatives such as tetracosafluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene.

Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluoronaphthalene derivatives, for instance perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1 -naphthalene.

As examples of commercial references of pigments treated with a fluoro compound, mention may be made of:

- yellow iron oxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601® by the company Daito Kasei;

- red iron oxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L® by the company Daito Kasei;

- black iron oxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL100® by the company Daito Kasei;

- titanium dioxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 T1O₂ CR 50® by the company Daito Kasei;

- yellow iron oxide/perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether sold under the reference Iron oxide yellow BF-25-3® by the company Toshiki;

- DC Red 7/perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether sold under the reference D&C Red 7 FFIC® by the company Cardre Inc.; and

- DC Red 6/PTFE sold under the reference T 9506® by the company Warner- Jenkinson. Fluorosilicone surface agent

The pigments may be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of fluorosilicone nature.

The fluorosilicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes.

Perfluoroalkyl silanes that may be mentioned include the products LP-IT® and LP- 4T® sold by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

The perfluoroalkyl dimethicones may be represented by the following formula:

in which:

- R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group;

- Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical containing 1 to 9 carbon atoms and preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- m is chosen between 0 and 150 and preferably between 20 and 100; and

- n is chosen between 1 and 300 and preferably between 1 and 100.

As examples of commercial references of pigments treated with a fluorosilicone compound, mention may be made of titanium dioxide/fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium dioxide 100TA® by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.

Other lipophilic surface agents

The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from:

i) metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate and the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate;

Metal soaps that may especially be mentioned include metal soaps of fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and in particular those containing from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

The metal of the metal soap may especially be zinc or magnesium.

Metal soaps that may be used include zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate and zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof;

ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and palmitic acid; iii) N-acylamino acids or salts thereof, which may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group;

The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.

Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylamino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and/or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, for instance aluminium stearoyl glutamate. It is, for example, the NAI surface treatment sold by Miyoshi; iv) lecithin and derivatives thereof, such as hydrogenated lecithin, for instance the HLC surface treatment sold by LCW;

v) isopropyl triisostearyl titanate (INCI name: Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate).

As examples of isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT)-treated pigments, mention may be made of those sold under the commercial references BTD-401® (titanium dioxide CI77891 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BBO-I2® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BYO-I2® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BRO-I2® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company Kobo; vi) isostearyl sebacate;

vii) natural plant or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes;

viii) fatty esters, in particular jojoba esters;

ix) phospholipids; and

x) mixtures thereof.

The waxes mentioned in the compounds mentioned previously may be those generally used in cosmetics, as defined hereinbelow.

They may especially be hydrocarbon-based, silicone and/or fluoro waxes, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.

The term "polar warf' means a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they may be, for example, alcohol, ester or carboxylic acid groups. Polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite and Fischer-Tropsch waxes are not included among polar waxes.

In particular, the polar waxes have a mean Hansen solubility parameter d₃ at 25°C such that 6a > 0 (J/cm³)^1/2 and better still d₃ > 1 (J/cm³)^1/2:

in which d_r and 6_h are, respectively, the polar contributions and contributions of interaction types specific to the Hansen solubility parameters.

The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen is described in the article by C. M. Hansen: “The three-dimensional solubility parameters’’ , J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967):

- 6_h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.);

- d_r characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

The solubility parameters are calculated with the HSPiP v4.1 software.

The parameters d_r and d_h are expressed in (J/cm³)^1/2.

A polar wax is especially formed from molecules comprising, besides carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N and P).

Non-limiting illustrations of these polar waxes that may especially be mentioned include natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax and montan wax.

According to one particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated with at least one compound chosen from N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; silicone surface agents; natural plant or animal waxes; hydrogenated lecithin, fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, use will be made of hydrophobic coated pigments chosen from titanium dioxides and iron oxides coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT); mention may be made of those sold under the commercial references BTD-401® (titanium dioxide CI77891 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BBO-I2® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BYO-I2® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BRO-I2® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company Kobo.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylamino acid and/or a salt thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and/or a salt thereof, especially a stearoyl glutamate, for instance aluminium stearoyl glutamate.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment chosen from titanium dioxides coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, iron oxides coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof, for example sold under the reference NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei. ADDITIONAL DYESTUFFS

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional dyestuff, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For obvious reasons, this amount is liable to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired colour effect and of the colour intensity afforded by the dyestuffs under consideration, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 % to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1 % to 25% by weight, in particular from 1 % to 20% by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of dyestuffs relative to the total weight of said composition.

As stated above, the dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the invention may be water-soluble, but may also be liposoluble.

For the purposes of the invention, the term“water-soluble dyestuff” means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour.

As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1 , betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus and elder), caramel and riboflavin.

The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

For the purposes of the invention, the term“liposoluble dyestuff’ means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and which is capable of imparting colour.

As liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21 , DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 1 1 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (b-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin. FILLERS

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers conventionally used in care and/or makeup compositions.

These fillers are colourless or white solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

These fillers, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, give the composition containing them softness, a matt effect and uniformity of the makeup result. In addition, these fillers advantageously make it possible to combat various attacking factors such as sebum or sweat.

As illustrations of these fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly- -alanine powder and polyethylene powder, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon^®), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel^® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls^® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminium oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules. Use may also be made of particles that are in the form of hollow sphere portions, as described in the patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and J P-2000 191 789.

ACTIVE AGENTS

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one active agent, in particular for a care application.

As other active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include moisturizers (or humectants), in particular glycerol; vitamins, in particular vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof; sunscreens, salicylic compounds such as those described in patents US 6 159 479 and US 5 558 871 , FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607 498, US 4 767 750, EP 378 936, US 5 267 407, US 5 667 789, US 5 580 549 and EP-A-570 230; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the moisturizer is glycerol.

According to a particular mode, said composition also comprises at least one moisturizer, in particular glycerol. VITAMIN Brt AND DERIVATIVES THEREOF

In order to optimize the stability of the composition of the invention, according to a particular mode, said composition also comprises vitamin B3 and/or a derivative thereof.

The term“vitamin B3” means any molecule having the general formula:

in which R is -CONH₂ (i.e.: niacinamide, isoniacinamide), -COOH (i.e.: nicotinic acid), or -CH₂OH (i.e.: nicotinyl alcohol) and also the derivatives thereof and the organic or inorganic acid salts thereof or the inorganic or organic base salts thereof, such as those mentioned above.

As examples of vitamin B3 derivatives, mention may be made of:

- esters of nicotinic acid, such as those with the following INCI names: Niacinamide Ascorbate, Niacinamide Glycolate, Niacinamide Hydroxybenzoate, Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate, Niacinamide Lactate, Niacinamide Malate, Niacinamide Mandalate, Niacinamide Salicylate, Niacinamide Thioctate, supplied by Bioderma Tech. Co

LTD;

- quaternary ammonium salts such as Methyl Niacinamide Chloride (INCI name) such as the commercial product MNA Chloride® from Pharmena;

- the reaction products of niacinamide with polypeptides such as those derived from yeasts: INCI name Niacinamide/Yeast Polypeptide such as the commercial product sold under the trade name Vitazyme B3® by Arch Personal Care Products, L.P. / Lonza Personal Care.

Use will more particularly be made of niacinamide, such as the commercial products sold under the name

Niacinamide PC® (DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.)

OriStar NA® (Orient Stars LLC)

RonaCare Nicotinamide® (Merck KGaA /EMD Chemicals)

RonaCare Nicotinamide ® (EMD Chemicals)

The vitamin B3 and/or a derivative thereof are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in active material concentrations ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, better still from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. SALICYLIC COMPOUNDS OF FORMULA (I)

In order to optimize the stability of the composition of the invention, according to a particular mode, said composition also comprises at least one salicylic compound of formula (I) below:

in which:

- the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 1 1 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds;

- the radical R' is a hydroxyl group;

- and also salts thereof, obtained especially by salification with a mineral or organic base.

The compounds of formula (I) that are more particularly preferred are those in which the radical R is a C3-C1 1 alkyl group.

Among the compounds of formula (I) that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of:

5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n- dodecanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and the corresponding salts thereof.

Use is made more particularly of 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, also known as capryloyl salicylic acid (INCI name: Capryloyl salicylic acid), such as the product manufactured and sold under the trade name Mexoryl SAB® by the company Chimex.

The salts of the compounds of formula (I) may be obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base. Examples of mineral bases that may be mentioned include alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or ammonia.

Among the organic bases, mention may be made of amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts, for instance those described in patent FR 2 607 498, are particularly advantageous. The compounds of formula (I) that may be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6 159 479 and US 5 558 871 , FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607498, US 4 767 750, EP 378 936, US 5 267 407, US 5 667 789, US 5 580 549 and EP-A- 570 230.

The salicylic acid compound of formula (I) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.01 % to 3% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular form of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises:

ii) at least propanediol; and

iii) salicylic acid in free form; and

iv) at least vitamin B₃ and/or a derivative thereof.

More particularly, said composition comprises, as hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent system, a polymer system of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid/organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) or copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate/organopolysiloxane elastomer(s).

ii) at least propanediol; and

iii) salicylic acid in free form; and

iv) at least one salicylic compound of formula (I), and/or a salt thereof, as defined previously.

More particularly, said composition comprises, as hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent system, a polymer system of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid/organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) or copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate/organopolysiloxane elastomer(s). Even more particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, with a branched saturated alkyl chain and/or a linear or branched, unsaturated alkyl chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol, and better still 2-octyldodecanol.

COSMETIC APPLICATIONS

It is a matter of routine operation for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not thereby affected.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for the skin and/or keratin fibres, the body or the face, in particular the face.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.

Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup base composition.

A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.

According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and especially the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a face powder.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a product for making up the lips, in particular a lipstick.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a product for making up and/or caring for the eyebrows.

Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with " comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

The expressions " between ... and..." and "ranging from... to..." should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.

The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts shown are expressed as weight percentages. Methodology for the oscillating dynamic rheology measurements

These are harmonic-regime rheology measurements for measuring the elastic modulus.

The measurements are taken using a Haake RS600 rheometer on a product at rest, at 25°C with a plate-plate rotor 0 60 mm and a 2 mm gap.

The harmonic-regime measurements make it possible to characterize the viscoelastic properties of the products. The technique consists in subjecting a material to a stress which varies sinusoidally over time and in measuring the response of the material to this stress. In a range in which the behaviour is linear viscoelastic behaviour (zone in which the strain is proportional to the stress), the stress (T) and the strain (y) are two sinusoidal functions of time which are written in the following manner:

T(t) = TO sin (wί)

y(t) = yo sin (wί + d)

in which:

To represents the maximum amplitude of the stress (Pa);

yo represents the maximum amplitude of the strain (-);

w = 2PN represents the angular frequency (rad.s^-1) with N representing the frequency (Hz); and

d represents the phase shift of the stress relative to the strain (rad).

Thus, the two functions have the same angular frequency, but they are phase- shifted by an angle d. Depending on the phase shift d between T(t) and y(t), the behaviour of the system may be apprehended:

- if d = 0, the material is purely elastic;

- if d = P/2, the material is purely viscous (Newtonian fluid); and

- if 0 < d < P/2, the material is viscoelastic.

In general, the stress and the strain are written in complex form:

T^*(t) = TO e^{i t}

Y^*(t) = Yo e^{(i t + d)}

A complex stiffness modulus, representing the overall resistance of the material to the strain, whether it is of elastic or viscous origin, is then defined by:

G^* = T7 y^* = G' + iG"

in which:

G’ is the storage modulus or elastic modulus, which characterizes the energy stored and totally restituted during a cycle, G’ = (TO/ go) COS d; and

G” is the loss modulus or viscous modulus, which characterizes the energy dissipated by internal friction during a cycle, G” = (TO/ go) sin d.

The parameter retained is the mean stiffness modulus G^* recorded at the plateau measured at a frequency of 1 Hz. Example 1 : Foundation in gel-gel form

A foundation according to the invention was prepared using the phases described below:

1 ) Preparation of the aqueous phase

The components of the aqueous phase were weighed out and placed in a beaker with stirring using a Rayneri mixer at room temperature (25°C).

The hydrophilic gelling agent was added with stirring at room temperature. The stirring was adjusted so as not to introduce air into the mixture.

The gel thickened slowly. The mixture obtained was stirred moderately for 10 minutes at room temperature.

2) Preparation of the oily phase

The pigments were milled with 15% silicone oil using a three-roll mill.

The milled material and the rest of the oil were placed in a beaker with stirring using a Rayneri mixer at room temperature (25°C).

The elastomeric silicone gel was added with moderate stirring at room temperature.

The gel thickened slowly. The mixture obtained was stirred moderately for

20 minutes at room temperature.

3) Preparation of the foundation

The formulation was obtained by mixing in a Rayneri mixer or an Olsa mini-boiler.

Example 1 was prepared using the following ingredients in the following amounts.

The formulation obtained had a dense and dispersed gel-gel texture. It proved to be stable on storage at low, ambient and high temperature. It had a macroscopically homogeneous appearance, good dispersibility of the pigments and good makeup properties such as good spreading, good coverage and good manageability of the product. Furthermore, the texture proved to be fresh and light on the skin on application. Example 2: Foundation in gel-gel form

A foundation according to the invention was prepared under the same operating conditions as those of Example 1 , using the following ingredients in the following amounts.

The formulation obtained had a dense and dispersed gel-gel texture. It proved to be stable on storage at low, ambient and high temperature. It had a macroscopically homogeneous appearance, good dispersibility of the pigments and good makeup properties such as good spreading, good coverage and good manageability of the product. Furthermore, the texture proved to be fresh and light on the skin on application. Example 3: Foundation in gel-gel form

The formulation obtained had a dense and dispersed gel-gel texture. It proved to be stable on storage at low, ambient and high temperature. It had a macroscopically homogeneous appearance, good dispersibility of the pigments and good makeup properties such as good spreading, good coverage and good manageability of the product. Furthermore, the texture proved to be fresh and light on the skin on application. Example 4: Foundation in gel-gel form A foundation according to the invention was prepared under the same operating conditions as those of Example 1 , using the following ingredients in the following amounts.

The formulation obtained had a dense and dispersed gel-gel texture. It proved to be stable on storage at low, ambient and high temperature. It had a macroscopically homogeneous appearance, good dispersibility of the pigments and good makeup properties such as good spreading, good coverage and good manageability of the product. Furthermore, the texture proved to be fresh and light on the skin on application.

Claims

1. Composition, especially comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, especially for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, containing:

ii) at least one saturated linear C3-C8 dihydroxyalkane; and

iii) salicylic acid in free form.

2. Composition according to Claim 1 , comprising, as hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one synthetic polymeric gelling agent.

3. Composition according to Claim 2, in which the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, and in particular is a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters and polymers containing hydrogen bonding, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising as lipophilic gelling agent at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer preferably chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing, as hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent system, a 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer or copolymer/organopolysiloxane elastomer system.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing the aqueous and oily phases in an aqueous phase/oily phase weight ratio of from 95/5 to 5/95 and preferably from 30/70 to 80/20.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the saturated linear C3-C8 dihydroxyalkane compound(s) are chosen from propanediol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least propanediol.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the saturated linear C3-C8 dihydroxyalkane compound(s) are present in concentrations ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 0.5% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one volatile silicone oil, preferably at least one linear volatile silicone oil.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one oil chosen from fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, with a branched saturated alkyl chain and/or a linear or branched, unsaturated alkyl chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly 2-octyldodecanol.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one volatile silicone oil, preferably at least one linear volatile silicone oil and at least one oil chosen from fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, with a branched saturated alkyl chain and/or a linear or branched, unsaturated alkyl chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly 2-octyldodecanol.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the salicylic acid in free form is present in amounts ranging from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 3% by weight and more particularly from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the pigment(s) are present in a proportion of at least 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 10% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially ranging from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one mineral pigment chosen from iron oxides and titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, more particularly chosen from titanium dioxides coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, iron oxides coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one moisturizing agent, in particular glycerol.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least vitamin B₃ and/or a derivative thereof.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one salicylic compound of formula (I) below:

in which:

- the radical R' is a hydroxyl group;

- and also salts thereof, obtained especially by salification with a mineral or organic base, and more particularly capryloyl salicylic acid (INCI name: Capryloyl salicylic acid).

21. Cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for a keratin material, in particular the skin and/or the lips and/or the eyebrows, and keratin fibres, especially the eyebrows, comprising at least one step which consists in applying to said keratin material a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 20.